Hair treatment compositions and hair straightening methods

The hair treatment composition with citric acid, cyclodextrin, and amino-functionalized silicones addresses the limitations of existing treatments by providing durable frizz reduction and smoothness, ensuring long-lasting cosmetic benefits.

FR3153523B3Active Publication Date: 2025-10-24LOREAL SA
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Patent Information

Application Number
FR2023010307
Authority / Receiving Office
FR · FR
Patent Type
Utility models
Current Assignee / Owner
Filing Date
2023-09-28
Publication Date
2025-10-24
Estimated Expiration
2033-09-28

AI Technical Summary

Technical Problem

Existing hair treatments that aim to improve appearance, manageability, and reduce frizz often cause chemical damage and are time-consuming, while over-the-counter and salon treatments provide limited improvement.

Method used

A hair treatment composition comprising citric acid, cyclodextrin, cationic surfactants, amino-functionalized silicones, and optional non-ionic surfactants and fatty alcohols, which forms a durable smooth coating on hair, improving fiber alignment and reducing frizz.

Benefits of technology

The composition provides long-lasting, humidity-resistant smoothness and frizz reduction, maintaining cosmetic properties even after washing, with treated hair appearing soft, shiny, and healthy.

✦ Generated by Eureka AI based on patent content.

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Abstract

Hair Treatment Compositions and Methods for Smoothing Hair The present disclosure relates to a hair treatment composition comprising: (a) citric acid, a salt thereof, or a combination thereof; (b) cyclodextrin, a salt thereof, or a derivative thereof; (c) one or more cationic surfactants; (d) one or more nonionic surfactants or emulsifiers; (e) one or more fatty alcohols; (f) one or more amino-functionalized silicones; and water. The hair treatment composition optionally includes one or more water-soluble solvents, non-silicone fatty compounds, and / or miscellaneous ingredients. The composition is particularly useful in methods for improving hair fiber alignment, reducing frizz, and imparting smoothness to hair. Figure for abstract: none
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Description

Title of Invention: Hair Treatment Compositions and Methods for Straightening Hair FIELD OF DISCLOSURE

[0001] The present disclosure relates to hair treatment compositions and methods of treating hair with the compositions. Treatment with the compositions provides hair with improved fiber alignment, frizz control, and smoothness. CONTEXT

[0002] Many consumers desire to use cosmetic and care compositions that enhance the appearance of the hair, for example, by changing the color, style and / or shape of the hair and / or by imparting various cosmetic properties to the hair, such as shine and conditioning. Hair can become dry or damaged for a variety of reasons, for example, exposure to the elements, poor nutrition, mechanical treatments (e.g., brushing the hair), styling treatments using chemicals, dyeing, heat, nutrition, etc. Even cleansing products can strip the hair of its natural oils, causing dryness, which can lead to a dull appearance, split ends and frizz.

[0003] Chemical hair treatments include bleaching and coloring treatments to change the color of the hair. Chemical treatments also include processes to permanently change the shape and structure of the hair, for example, by perming, waving, relaxing, or straightening the hair. These chemical treatments often alter the appearance of the hair by changing its physical structure, which inevitably causes some degree of damage to the hair. Environmental factors, such as salt water, sunlight, and heat, are also known to damage hair. Damaged hair is characterized by unnatural changes in the protein structure of individual hair strands or shafts.

[0004] The popularity and use of oils for hair treatment has increased due to their effectiveness and simplicity. Commonly used oils include olive oil, mineral oil, avocado oil, apricot kernel oil, rice bran oil, and coconut oil. However, these treatments can make hair greasy. Furthermore, effects are usually not seen until several hours (e.g., 8 hours) of treatment and multiple treatments are usually required, making the treatment time-consuming and laborious.

[0005] Hair damage results in split ends, dryness, easily brittle hair, and hair that becomes "frizzy" and difficult to style. Because the visible part of the hair is dead, it cannot regenerate itself. Many over-the-counter and salon treatments are claimed to repair damaged hair. These include conditioners, hot oil treatments, hydrolyzed proteins, vitamin formulations, and extracts of exotic fruits, leaves, or roots. However, these treatments provide little improvement to the hair. Therefore, hair treatment technologies that can straighten, relax, or style hair without chemically damaging it are desired.

[0006] The need remains to improve hair manageability, for example, to improve hair alignment, to reduce unwanted volume (particularly a reduction in frizz), and to increase shine. SUMMARY OF DISCLOSURE

[0007] The present disclosure relates to hair treatment compositions and methods for improving the appearance, feel, and style of hair. In particular, the hair treatment compositions and methods improve fiber alignment, reduce frizz, and impart a smooth texture. The treated hair is soft, shiny, conditioned, and has a healthy appearance. The compositions include a unique combination of a component that forms a smooth coating on the surface of the hair. The smooth coating is surprisingly durable. Therefore, the improved cosmetic properties imparted to the hair are long-lasting, resistant to humidity, and maintained uniformly when washing the hair.

[0008] The hair treatment compositions of the present disclosure typically comprise:

[0009] (a) citric acid, one of its salts or one of its combinations;

[0010] (b) cyclodextrin or its derivatives;

[0011] (c) one or more cationic surfactants;

[0012] (d) optionally, one or more non-ionic surfactants or emulsifiers;

[0013] (e) one or more fatty alcohols;

[0014] (f) one or more amino-functionalized silicones;

[0015] (g) optionally, one or more water-soluble solvents;

[0016] (h) water.

[0017] Citric acid and its salts provide a myriad of benefits to hair. For example, it acts as an antioxidant, removes buildup and debris from the hair, and improves blood circulation in the scalp, which should nourish hair follicles and promote growth. Its acidic pH is also helpful in balancing the pH of the scalp, as many hair care products make it more alkaline. The citric acid in the present compositions interacts also with cyclodextrin in a unique way and improves film formation on the hair, which is further potentiated by heat. Sodium citrate (or trisodium citrate) is an example of a citric acid salt.

[0018] Cyclodextrins are a family of cyclic oligosaccharides, composed of a macrocyclic core of glucose subunits joined by α-1,4 glycosidic bonds. Cyclodextrins are produced from starch by enzymatic conversion. Typical cyclodextrins contain a number of glucose monomers ranging from six to eight units in a core, creating a cone shape, e.g., α(alpha)-cyclodextrin has 6 glucose subunits, β(beta)-cyclodextrin has 7 glucose subunits, and γ(gamma)-cyclodextrin has 8 glucose subunits. Non-limiting examples of cyclodextrins for use in the compositions of the present disclosure include α-cyclodextrin, β-cyclodextrin, γ-cyclodextrin, methyl-α-cyclodextrin, methyl-β-cyclodextrin, methyl-γ-cyclodextrin, and mixtures thereof.

[0019] Non-limiting examples of cationic surfactants include cetrimonium chloride, stearimonium chloride, behentrimonium chloride, behentrimonium methosulfate, behenamidopropyltrimonium methosulfate, stearamidoprolimonium chloride, arachidtrimonium chloride, distearyldimonium chloride, dicetyldimonium chloride, tricetylmonium chloride, oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, linoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, isostearamidopropyl dimethylamine, oleyl hydroxyethyl imidazoline, stearamidopropyldimethylamine, behenamidopropyl-dimethylamine, behenamidopropyldiethylamine, behenamidoethyldiethylamine, behenamidoethyldimethylamine, arachidamidopropyldimethylamine, arachidamidopropyl-diethylamine, arachimidoethyldiethylamine, arachidamidoethyldimethylamine, and a mixture thereof.

[0020] The compositions typically include one or more nonionic surfactants or emulsifiers. Non-limiting examples include nonionic surfactants or emulsifiers selected from alkoxylated fatty alcohols, polyoxyethylene glycol fatty acid esters, ethoxylated mono- or diglycerides, sorbitan esters, ethoxylated sorbitan esters (polysorbates), fatty acid glycol esters, ethylene oxide, alkyl(ether)phosphates, alkylpolyglucosides, and mixtures thereof. In various embodiments, at least one of the one or more nonionic surfactants or emulsifiers is alkoxylated, preferably ethoxylated. Fatty alcohol ethoxylates are particularly useful, for example, polyethylene glycol ethers of tridecyl alcohol (or other fatty alcohols).

[0021] Suitable fatty alcohols, if present, include those having a fatty group with a carbon chain of more than 8 carbon atoms, 8 to 50 carbon atoms, 8 to 40 carbon atoms, 8 to 30 carbon atoms, 8 to 22 carbon atoms, 12 to 22 carbon atoms or 12 to 18 carbon atoms. In some cases, the fatty group of fatty alcohols has a carbon chain of 10 to 20 carbon atoms or 10 to 18 carbon atoms. Non-limiting examples of fatty alcohols include decyl alcohol, undecyl alcohol, dodecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol (cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol), isostearyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, linalool, oleyl alcohol, cis-4-t-butylohexanol, isotridecyl alcohol, myricyl alcohol and mixtures thereof.

[0022] Non-limiting examples of amino-functionalized silicones include amodimethicone, bis-hydroxy / methoxy amodimethicones, bis-cetearyl amodimethicone, bis(C13-C15 alkoxy) PG amodimethicone, aminopropyl phenyl tri-methicone, aminopropyl dimethicone, bis-amino PEG / PPG-41 / 3 aminoethyl PG-propyl dimethicone, or a mixture thereof. In various embodiments, amodimethicone is preferred.

[0023] The compositions optionally include one or more water-soluble solvents (also referred to as "water-soluble organic solvents"). Non-limiting examples of water-soluble solvents include glycerin, C1-C6 monohydric alcohols, polyols (polyhydric alcohols), glycols, or a mixture thereof. In various embodiments, at least one of the one or more water-soluble solvents is glycerin, a glycol (e.g., ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, etc.), or a combination thereof.

[0024] The compositions optionally include one or more non-silicone fatty compounds. Non-limiting examples include oils, waxes, linear or branched alkanes, fatty esters, fatty alcohols, fatty acids, fatty alcohol esters, fatty acid esters, cetyl esters, triglycerides, or a mixture thereof. In various embodiments, the compositions include one or more linear or branched alkanes. In various embodiments, the compositions include an oil.

[0025] In various embodiments, the compositions include one or more miscellaneous ingredients. Non-limiting examples of miscellaneous ingredients include preservatives, fragrances, pH adjusters, salts, chelating agents, buffers, antioxidants, flavonoids, vitamins, amino acids, botanical extracts, UV filtering agents, peptides, proteins, protein hydrolysates and / or isolates, fillers (e.g., organic and / or inorganic fillers such as talc, calcium carbonate, silica, particular materials, etc.), composition colorants, or a mixture thereof.

[0026] The compositions are useful for improving the appearance, feel, and style of hair. Accordingly, the present disclosure relates to methods of treating hair, e.g., methods of improving the appearance, feel, or styling hair, particularly curly hair. More specifically, the present disclosure relates to methods for improving fiber alignment, reducing frizz, and imparting a smooth texture to hair. Such methods typically include applying the composition to the hair. After leaving the composition on the hair for a period of time (e.g., about 1 to about 10 minutes), the composition is rinsed from the hair. In various embodiments, the temperature of the hot iron is at least 100°C, e.g., about 140°C to about 190°C. The treated hair is soft, shiny, conditioned, and healthy-looking. The improved cosmetic properties imparted to the hair are long-lasting and are maintained even after washing the hair.

[0027] In various embodiments, the compositions of the present disclosure may be used in a routine with heat treatment, for example, treatment with a hot iron such as a flat iron. The compositions are applied to the hair, for example, after washing the hair, and may remain on the hair for a period of time. The hair is then rinsed, dried, and treated with a hot iron, preferably a flat iron. The treated hair is smoothed with a high degree of fiber alignment, is frizz-free, and has a natural, healthy appearance. Brief Description of the Drawings

[0028] An implementation of the present technology is described, by way of example only, with reference to the attached figure, in which:

[0029] [Fig-1] [Fig.l] shows strands of hair treated with a placebo, a com position of the present disclosure and comparative compositions, immediately after treatment.

[0030] [Fig.2] [Fig.2] shows strands of hair treated with a placebo, a com position of the present disclosure and comparative compositions, after 1 hour in a humidity chamber (80%, 25°C).

[0031] [Fig.3] [Fig.3] shows strands of hair treated with a placebo, a com position of the present disclosure and comparative compositions, after being in a humidity chamber for 1 hour (80%, 25°C) and subsequently washed.

[0032] [Fig.4] [Fig.4] shows strands of hair treated with a placebo, a com position of the present disclosure and comparative compositions, after 1 hour in a humidity chamber (80%, 25°C), then washed, and again in the humidity chamber (80%, 25°C) for 1 hour.

[0033] The various aspects are not limited to the arrangements and instrumentalities shown in the drawings. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE DISCLOSURE

[0034] The present disclosure relates to hair and body treatment compositions hair treatment processes. The compositions include a unique combination of citric acid, cyclodextrin, and an amino-functionalized silicone. These components interact synergistically. Treatment with the compositions improves fiber alignment, reduces frizz, and imparts smoothness to a surprising extent. The longevity of the improved fiber alignment, reduced frizz, and smooth texture is also significant and surprising. In addition, hair treated with the compositions retains these desirable cosmetic properties even after washing. Thus, the benefits provided by the compositions are long-lasting.

[0035] The hair treatment composition typically includes:

[0036] (a) about 1 to about 8% by weight of citric acid;

[0037] (b) about 0.5 to about 5% by weight of a cyclodextrin or a derivative thereof;

[0038] wherein a combined total amount of citric acid of (a) and cyclodextrin of (b) is about 2 to about 12% by weight;

[0039] (c) from about 1 to about 10% by weight of one or more cationic surfactants;

[0040] (d) optionally, about 0.1 to about 5% by weight of one or more surfactants or non-ionic emulsifiers;

[0041] (e) about 1 to about 15% by weight of one or more fatty alcohols;

[0042] (f) about 2 to about 18% by weight of one or more amino-silicones functionalized;

[0043] (g) optionally, one or more water-soluble solvents;

[0044] (h) about 60 to about 85% by weight of water;

[0045] wherein all weight percentages are based on a total weight of the composition.

[0046] The pH of the composition may vary. However, in various embodiments, a pH of less than 7 (an acidic pH) is desirable. For example, the pH may be from about 3 to about 6.5, from about 3 to about 6, from about 3 to about 5.5, from about 3 to about 5, or from about 3 to about 4.5. (a) Citric acid and its salts

[0047] The total amount of citric acid, its salts, or a combination thereof will vary. However, in various embodiments, the hair treatment composition includes about 1 to about 5% by weight of citric acid, or a combination thereof, based on the total weight of the composition. In other embodiments, the hair treatment composition comprises from about 1 to about 1 to about 3% by weight, from about 2 to about 5% by weight, from about 2 to about 4% by weight, from about 2 to about 3% by weight, from about 2.5 to about 5% by weight, from about 2.5 to about 4% by weight, from about 2.5 to about 3% by weight, or from about 1, about 1.5, about 2, about 2.5, about 3, about 3.5, about 4, about 4.5, or about 5% by weight of citric acid, its salts, or a combination thereof, based on a total weight of the composition. (b) Cyclodextrin and derivatives

[0048] The compositions according to the disclosure comprise at least one cyclodextrin or derivative thereof. As used herein, the term "cyclodextrins" includes carboxylic acid salts, whether or not expressly indicated. Cyclodextrins are a family of cyclic oligosaccharides consisting of a macrocyclic core of glucose subunits joined by α-1,4 glycosidic linkages.

[0049] Cyclodextrins that may be used include those of the formula: v ~ n ')

[0050] in which:

[0051] R is selected from H, CH3 or a hydroxypropyl group, and

[0052] n goes from 6 to 8.

[0053] For example, in embodiments where R = H, the cyclodextrin may be α-cyclodextrin (n = 6), β-cyclodextrin (n = 7), or γ-cyclodextrin (n = 8). For example, α-cyclodextrin sold by WACKER under the name CAVAMAX W6 PHARMA, β-cyclodextrin sold by WACKER under the name CAVAMAX W7 PHARMA, or γ-cyclodextrin sold by WACKER under the name CAVAMAX W8 PHARMA may be used.

[0054] In other embodiments where R = CH3, the cyclodextrin may be a methyl-cyclodextrin, such as methyl-α-cyclodextrin (n = 6), methyl-β-cyclodextrin (n = 7), or methyl-γ-cyclodextrin (n = 8). For example, methyl-β-cyclodextrin sold by the company WACKER under the name CAVASOL W7 may be chosen.

[0055] In various embodiments, the at least one cyclodextrin may comprise a mixture of cyclodextrins and / or derivatives thereof. For example, the at least one cyclodextrin may be a mixture of α-cyclodextrin, β-cyclodextrin and / or γ-cyclodextrin. In another embodiment, the at least one cyclodextrin includes β-cyclodextrin. In yet another embodiment, the cyclodextrin is only β-cyclodextrin, and no other cyclodextrin or derivative thereof is present in the composition.

[0056] In one embodiment, the compositions according to the present disclosure comprise B-cyclodextrin in an amount ranging from about 0.1% to about 10%, such as from 0.2% to about 8%, from about 0.3% to about 7%, from about 0.4% to about 6%, from about 1% to about 10%, from about 1% to about 8%, from about 1% to about 5%, from about 1% to about 3% by weight, based on the total weight of the hair treatment composition.

[0057] The total amount of cyclodextrin in the hair treatment compositions will vary. However, in various embodiments, the hair treatment composition includes about 0.5 to about 5% by weight of cyclodextrin, based on a total weight of the composition.In other embodiments, the hair treatment composition includes about 0.5 to about 4 wt.%, about 0.5 to about 3 wt.%, 0.5 to about 2 wt.%, about 1 to about 5 wt.%, about 1 to about 4 wt.%, about 1 to about 3 wt.%, about 1 to about 2 wt.%, about 1.5 to about 5 wt.%, about 1.5 to about 4 wt.%, about 1.5 to about 3 wt.%, about 1.5 to about 2 wt.%, about 0.5 wt.%, about 1 wt.%, about 1.25 wt.%, about 1.5 wt.%, about 2 wt.%, about 2.5 wt.%, about 3 wt.%, about 3.5 wt.%, about 4 wt.%, about 4.5 wt.%, about 5 wt.%, relative to a total weight of the composition.

[0058] Combination of citric acid / salts and cyclodextrin

[0059] The total combined amount of citric acid, its salts, or the combination of (a) and cyclodextrin or derivatives of (b) will vary. However, in various embodiments, the total combined amount of citric acid, its salts, or the combination of (a) and cyclodextrin and derivatives of (b) is from about 1 to about 12% by weight, based on a total weight of the hair treatment composition.In other embodiments, the total combined amount of citric acid, its salts, or the combination of (a) and the cyclodextrin and derivatives of (b) is about 1 to about 10 wt%, about 1 to about 8 wt%, about 1 to about 6 wt%, about 1 to about 5 wt%, about 2 to about 12 wt%, about 2 to about 10 wt%, about 2 to about 8 wt%, about 2 to about 6 wt%, about 2 to about 5 wt%, about 3 to about 12 wt%, about 3 to about 10 wt%, about 3 to about 8 wt%, about 3 to about 6 wt%, or about 3 to about 5 wt% or about 1 wt%, 2 wt% weight, 3% by weight, 4% by weight, 5% by weight, 6% by weight, 7% by weight, 8% by weight of the hair treatment composition.

[0060] The weight ratio of citric acid, its salts, or the combination of (a) to cyclodextrin or derivatives of (b) will vary. However, in various embodiments, the citric acid, its salts, or the combination of (a) to cyclodextrin or derivatives of (b) are in a weight ratio of about 8:1 to about 1:2((a):(b)). In embodiments of further embodiments, citric acid, its salts, or a combination of (a) and cyclodextrin or derivatives of (b) are in a weight ratio of about 6:1 to about 1:2, about 5:2 to about 1:2, about 4:1 to about 1:2, about 3:1 to about 1:2; from about 2:1 to about 1:2, from about 8:1 to about 1:1, from about 6:1 to about 1:1, from about 5:1 to about 1:1, from about 4:1 to about 1:1, from about 3:1 to about 1:1, from about 2:1 to about 1:1, from about 1.2:1, about 1.3:1, about 1.4:1, about 1.5:1, about 1.6:1, or about 1.8:1 ((a):(b)).

[0061] The molar ratio between citric acid, its salts, or the combination of (a) and cyclodextrin or derivatives of (b) will vary. However, in various embodiments, citric acid, its salts, or the combination of (a) and cyclodextrin or derivatives of (b) are in a molar ratio of about 20:1 to about 3:1. In additional embodiments, the citric acid, its salts, or a combination of (a) and the cyclodextrin or derivatives of (b) are in a molar ratio of about 18:1 to about 3:1, about 15:1 to about 3:1, about 20:1 to about 5:1, about 18:1 to about 5:1, about 15:1 to about 5:1, about 20:1 to about 8:1, about 18:1 to about 8:1, about 15:1 to about 8:1, about 20:1 to about 10:1, about 18:1 to about 10:1, about 15:1 to about 10:1, about 14:1 to about 13:1, or about 12:1 to about 11:1.

[0062] In various embodiments, citric acid, its salts, or the combination of (a) and the cyclodextrin of (b) are combined with each other before being added into the hair treatment compositions of the present disclosure. For example, the cyclodextrin is preferentially solubilized in citric acid to form a solubilized combination of citric acid and cyclodextrin. The combination may be heated to facilitate or accelerate dissolution of the cyclodextrin. The solubility of cyclodextrin in water is not always ideal. Therefore, combining the cyclodextrin with citric acid and dissolving the cyclodextrin in the citric acid before adding the combination with other components of the hair treatment composition may be beneficial, (c) Cationic Surfactants

[0063] The term "cationic surfactant" as defined by the present disclosure is a surfactant that can be positively charged when contained in the hair treatment compositions according to the disclosure. The cationic surfactant may carry one or more positive permanent charges or may contain one or more functional groups that are cationizable in the composition according to the disclosure.

[0064] Monoalkyl cationic surfactants useful herein are primary, secondary and tertiary amines having an alkyl or alkenyl group from about 12 to about 30 carbon atoms long, preferably from 16 to 24 carbon atoms, more preferably from 18 to 22 alkyl groups. For example, monoal- cationic surfactants alkyl compounds include monoalkyl trimonium halide compounds. Non-limiting examples of monoalkyl trimonium halide compounds include cetrimonium chloride, steartrimonium chloride, behentrimonium chloride, cocotrimonium chloride and cocamidopropyltrimonium chloride. Preferred are cetrimonium chloride, steartrimonium chloride and behentrimonium chloride.

[0065] In various embodiments, the hair treatment compositions include behentrimonium chloride, cetrimonium chloride, or a combination thereof.

[0066] Monoalkyl cationic surfactants also include monoalkylamidoamines. Tertiary amidoamines comprising an alkyl group of about 12 to about 22 carbon atoms, preferably about 16 to about 22 carbon atoms, are particularly useful. Examples of tertiary amidoamines include: stearamidopropyldimethylamine, stearamidopropyldiethylamine, stearamidoethyldiethylamine, stearamidoethyldimethylamine, palmitamidopropyldimethylamine, palmitamidopropyldiethylamine, palmitamidoethyldiethylamine, palmitamidoethyldimethylamine, behenamidopropyldimethylamine, behenamidoethyldiethylamine, behenamidoethyldimethylamine, arachidamidopropyldimethylamine, arachidamidopropyldiethylamine, arachidamidoethyldimethylamine, diethylaminoethylstearamide, and a combination thereof.

[0067] Dialkyl cationic surfactants include those of formula (I) and associated salts: Formula (I)

[0068] in which two of R71, R72, R73 and R74 are chosen from an aliphatic group of 12 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably of 16 to 24 carbon atoms, more preferably of 18 to 22 carbon atoms or an aromatic, alkoxy, polyoxyalkylene, alkylamido, hydroxyalkyl, aryl or alkylaryl group comprising up to approximately 30 carbon atoms;

[0069] the remainder of R71, R72, R73 and R74 are independently selected from an aliphatic group of 1 to about 8 carbon atoms, preferably of 1 to 3 carbon atoms or an aromatic, alkoxy, polyoxyalkylene, alkylamido, hydroxyalkyl, aryl group or alkylaryl of up to about 8 carbon atoms and

[0070] A is an anion, for example, a halide, such as chloride or bromide, a C1-C4 alkyl sulfate such as methosulfate and ethosulfate, and mixtures thereof.

[0071] The aliphatic groups for Formula (I) may contain, in addition to carbon and hydrogen atoms, ether linkages and other groups such as amino groups. Longer chain aliphatic groups, for example those of about 16 or more carbons, may be saturated or unsaturated. Preferably, two of R71, R72, R73 and R74 are selected from an alkyl group of 12 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 16 to 24 carbon atoms, more preferably 18 to 22 carbon atoms; and the remainder of R71, R72, R73 and R74 are independently selected from CH3, C2H5, C2H4OH, CH2C6H5 and mixtures thereof.

[0072] Non-limiting examples of dialkyl cationic surfactants of formula (I) include dialkyl (14-18) dimethylammonium chloride, ditallow alkyl dimethyl ammonium chloride, dihydrogen tallow alkyl dimethyl ammonium chloride, distearyl dimethyl ammonium chloride, dicetyl dimethyl ammonium chloride, dicetyl dimonium chloride, dicetyl dimonium bromide and a combination thereof.

[0073] In various embodiments, one or more dialkyl cationic surfactants are selected from dialkyl dimonium halide compounds. Non-limiting examples include dialkyl(14-18)dimethylammonium chloride, dimethyl di(tallow alkyl)ammonium chloride, dihydrogenated dimethyl(tallow alkyl)ammonium chloride, distearyl dimethyl ammonium chloride, dicetyl dimethyl ammonium chloride, dicetyldimonium chloride, dicetyldimonium bromide, and a combination thereof. In a preferred embodiment, the dialkyl dimonium halide compounds are selected from dicetyl dimonium chloride, dicetyldimonium bromide, and a combination thereof. In a preferred embodiment, the hair treatment composition includes dicetyldimonium chloride.

[0074] The total amount of the one or more cationic surfactants in the hair treatment composition will vary. However, in various embodiments, the hair treatment compositions include about 1 to about 10% by weight of the one or more cationic surfactants, based on a total weight of the composition. In other embodiments, the hair treatment composition includes from about 1 to about 8 wt.%, from about 1 to about 6 wt.%, from about 1 to about 5 wt.%, from about 1 to about 4 wt.%, from about 1 to about 3 wt.%, from about 1.5 to about 10 wt.%, from about 1.5 to about 8 wt.%, from about 1.5 to about 6 wt.%, from about 1.5 to about 5 wt.%, from about 1.5 to about 4 wt.%, from about 1.5 to about 3 wt.%, from about 2 about 10% by weight, about 2 to about 8% by weight, about 2 to about 6% by weight, about 2 to about 5% by weight, about 2 to about 4% by weight, about 2 to about 3% by weight, about 1% by weight, about 1.5% by weight, about 2% by weight, about 2.5% by weight, about 3% by weight, about 3.5% by weight, about 4% by weight, about 4.5% by weight, about 5% by weight, about 6% by weight, about 8% by weight, about 10% by weight, of one or more cationic surfactants. (d) Non-ionic surfactants or emulsifiers

[0075] The terms "nonionic surfactant" and "nonionic emulsifier" are used interchangeably in the present disclosure and may therefore be referred to as "nonionic emulsifying surfactants." The nonionic surfactant or emulsifier may have an HLB (hydrophilic-lipophilic balance) ranging from 1 to 7.9 or greater than or equal to 8. "HLB" refers to the "hydrophilic-lipophilic balance" associated with nonionic surfactants or emulsifiers. In particular, the "HLB" value relates to the ratio of hydrophilic groups to lipophilic groups in the emulsifiers, as well as the solubility of the emulsifiers. Emulsifiers with lower HLB (such as those with HLB values ​​ranging from 1 to 7.9) are more soluble in oils (lipophilic material) and are more suitable for use in water-in-oil (W / O) emulsions.Higher HLB emulsifiers (such as those with HLB values ​​above 8) are more soluble in water (hydrophilic material) and are more suitable for oil-in-water (O / W) emulsions.

[0076] Non-limiting examples of non-ionic surfactants or emulsifiers include poly(ethylene oxide) alkyl and polyalkyl esters, poly(ethylene oxide) alkyl and polyalkyl ethers, optionally polyoxyethylene alkyl and polyalkyl esters of sorbitan, optionally alkyl and polyalkyl ethers of sorbitan, alkyl and polyalkyl glycosides or polyglycosides, in particular alkyl and polyalkyl glucosides or polyglucosides, alkyl and polyalkyl esters of sucrose, optionally polyoxyethylene alkyl and polyalkyl esters of glycerol, and optionally polyoxyethylene alkyl and polyalkyl ethers of glycerol, and mixtures thereof.Preferably, the nonionic surfactant(s) may be chosen from poly(ethylene oxide) alkyl and polyalkyl esters, poly(ethylene oxide) alkyl and polyalkyl ethers, optionally polyoxyethylenated sorbitan alkyl and polyalkyl esters, optionally polyoxyethylenated sorbitan alkyl and polyalkyl ethers, optionally polyoxyethylenated glycerol alkyl and polyalkyl esters, and optionally polyoxyethylenated glycerol alkyl and polyalkyl ethers, and mixtures thereof.

[0077] (1) Alkyl and polyalkyl esters of poly(ethylene oxide) which are preferably primarily used are those containing at least one C8-C30 alkyl radical, with a number of ethylene oxide (EO) units ranging from 2 to 200. Examples include (INCI name), PEG-20 stearate, PEG-40 stearate, PEG-100 stearate, PEG-20 laurate, PEG-8 laurate, PEG-40 laurate, PEG-150 distearate, PEG-7 cocoate, PEG-9 cococate, PEG-8 oleate, PEG-10 oleate and PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil.

[0078] (2) Alkyl and polyalkyl ethers of poly(ethylene oxide) which are preferred Particularly used are those containing at least one C8-C30 alkyl radical, with a number of ethylene oxide (EO) units ranging from 3 to 200. Examples include laureth-3, laureth-4, laureth-7, laureth-23, ceteth-5, ceteth-7, ceteth-15, ceteth-23, oleth-5, oleth-7, oleth-10, oleth-12, oleth-20, oleth-50, phytosterol 30 EO, steareth-6, steareth-20, steareth-21, steareth-40, steareth-100, beheneth 100, ceteareth-7, ceteareth-10, ceteareth-15, ceteareth-25, pareth-3, pareth-23, C12-15 pareth-3, C12-13 pareth-4, C12-13 pareth-23, trideceth-3, trideceth-4, trideceth-5, trideceth-6, trideceth-7 and trideceth-10, and mixtures thereof.

[0079] (3) The polyoxyethylenated alkyl and polyalkyl esters of sorbitan which are preferred The most commonly used are those having a number of ethylene oxide (EO) units ranging from 0 to 100. Examples include sorbitan laurate, sorbitan laurate 4 EO, sorbitan laurate 20 EO (polysorbate 20), sorbitan palmitate 20 EO (polysorbate 40), sorbitan stearate 20 EO (polysorbate 60), sorbitan oleate 20 EO (polysorbate 80) and sorbitan trioleate 20 EO (polysorbate 85).

[0080] (4) The polyoxyethylenated alkyl and polyalkyl ethers of sorbitan which are preferred Most commonly used are those having a number of ethylene oxide (EO) units ranging from 0 to 100.

[0081] The compositions of the present disclosure may include one or more alkanolamides. Non-limiting examples of alkanolamides include fatty acid alkanolamides. The fatty acid alkanolamides may be fatty acid monoalkanolamides or fatty acid dialkanolamides or fatty acid isoalkanolamides, and may have a C2 x hydroxyalkyl group (the C2 x chain may be substituted with one or more -OH groups). Non-limiting examples include fatty acid diethanolamides (DEA) or fatty acid monoethanolamides (MEA), fatty acid monoisopropanolamides (MIPA), fatty acid diisopropanolamides (DIPA), and fatty acid glucamides (acyl glucamides).

[0082] Suitable fatty acid alkanolamides include those formed by the reaction of an alkanolamine and a C6-C36 fatty acid. Examples include, but are not limited to: oleic acid diethanolamide, myristic acid monoethanolamide, soybean fatty acid diethanolamide, stearic acid ethanolamide, oleic acid monoisopropanolamide, linoleic acid diethanolamide, stearic acid monoethanolamide (MEA Stearamide), behenic acid monoethanolamide, isostearic acid monoisopropanolamide (MIPA Isostearamide), acid diethanolamide erucic acid, ricinoleic acid monoethanolamide, coconut fatty acid monoisopropanolamide (cocamide MIPA), coconut acid monoethanolamide (cocamide MEA), palm kernel fatty acid diethanolamide, coconut fatty acid diethanolamide, lauric diethanolamide, polyoxyethylene coconut fatty acid monoethanolamide, coconut fatty acid monoethanolamide, lauric monoethanolamide, lauric acid monoisopropanolamide, (lauramide MIPA), myristic acid monoisopropanolamide (Myristamide MIPA), coconut fatty acid diisopropanolamide (cocamide DIPA) and mixtures thereof.

[0083] In some cases, the fatty acid alkanolamides include cocamide MIPA, cocamide DEA, cocamide MEA, cocamide DIPA, and mixtures thereof. In particular, the fatty acid alkanolamide may be cocamide MIPA, which is commercially available under the trade name EMPILAN from Innospec Active Chemicals.

[0084] Fatty acid alkanolamides include those having the following structure: R4CNR5R6

[0085] where R4 is an alkyl chain of 4 to 20 carbon atoms (R4 may be, for example, chosen from lauric acid, coconut acid, palmitic acid, myristic acid, behenic acid, babassu fatty acid, isostearic acid, stearic acid, corn fatty acid, soybean fatty acid, shea butter fatty acids, caprylic acid, capric acid and mixtures thereof);

[0086] R6 is chosen from -CH2OH, -CH2CH2OH, -CH2CH2CH2OH, -CH2(CHOH)4CH2OH, -benzyl and mixtures thereof;

[0087] R6 is selected from -H, -CH3, -CH2OH, -CH2CH3, -CH2CH2OH, -CH2CH2CH2OH, --CH2(CHOH)4CH2OH, -benzyl and mixtures thereof.

[0088] In some cases, the one or more of the fatty acid alkanolamides include one or more acyl glucamides, for example, acyl glucamides having a carbon chain length of 8 to 20. Non-limiting examples include lauroyl / myristoyl methyl glucamide, capryloyl / capryl methyl glucamide, lauroyl methyl glucamide, myristoyl methyl glucamide, capryloyl methyl glucamide, capryl methyl glucamide, cocoyl methyl glucamide, capryloyl / caproyl methyl glucamide, cocoyl methyl glucamide, lauryl methyl glucamide, oleoyl methyl glucamide oleate, stearoyl methyl glucamide stearate, torseoloyl methyl glucamide and tocopheryl succinate methyl glucamide.

[0089] The compositions of the present disclosure may include one or more alkyl polyglucosides. Non-limiting examples of alkyl polyglucosides include alkyl polyglucosides having the following formula: R1-O-(R2O)nZ(x)

[0090] Where R1 is an alkyl group having 8 to 18 carbon atoms;

[0091] R2 is an ethylene or propylene group;

[0092] Z is a saccharide group with 5 to 6 carbon atoms;

[0093] n is an integer from 0 to 10; and

[0094] x is an integer from 1 to 5.

[0095] Useful alkyl polyglucosides include lauryl glucoside, octyl glucoside, decyl glucoside, coco glucoside, caprylyl / capryl glucoside and sodium lauryl glucose carboxylate. Typically, the at least one alkyl polyglucoside compound is selected from the group consisting of lauryl glucoside, decyl glucoside and coco glucoside. In some cases, decyl glucoside is particularly preferred.

[0096] The compositions of the present disclosure may include one or more various nonionic surfactants or emulsifiers. Non-limiting examples include alcohols, alpha-diols, alkylphenols and fatty acid esters, these compounds being ethoxylated, propoxylated or glycerolated and having at least one fatty chain comprising, for example, from 8 to 18 carbon atoms, the number of ethylene oxide or propylene oxide groups being from 2 to 50, and the number of glycerol groups from 1 to 30. Maltose derivatives may also be mentioned.Mention may also be made, in a non-limiting manner, of copolymers of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide; condensates of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide with fatty alcohols; polyethoxylated fatty amides comprising, for example, from 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide; polyglycerolated fatty amides comprising, for example, from 1.5 to 5 glycerol groups, such as from 1.5 to 4; ethoxylated fatty acid esters of sorbitan comprising from 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide; ethoxylated oils of vegetable origin; fatty acid esters of sucrose; fatty acid esters of polyethylene glycol; mono or diesters of polyethoxylated fatty acids of (C6-C24)alkylpolyglycosides of glycerol; N-(C6-C24)alkylglucamine derivatives, amine oxides such as (Cio-Ci4)alkylamine oxides or N-(Ci0-Ci4)acylaminopropylmorpholine oxides and mixtures thereof.

[0097] Such non-ionic surfactants may preferably be chosen from polyoxyalkylenated or polyglycerolated non-ionic surfactants. The oxyalkylene units are more particularly oxyethylene or oxypropylene units, or their combination, and are preferably oxyethylene units.

[0098] The non-ionic surfactants may be chosen from polyol esters with saturated or unsaturated chain fatty acids containing, for example, from 8 to 24 atoms. of carbon, preferably from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, and their alkoxylated derivatives, preferably with an alkylene oxide number of 10 to 200, and more preferably from 10 to 100, such as glyceryl esters of a C8-C24 fatty acid or acids, preferably C12-C22, and their alkoxylated derivatives, preferably with an alkylene oxide number of 10 to 200, and more preferably from 10 to 100; polyethylene glycol esters of a C8-C24 fatty acid or acids, preferably C12-C22, and their alkoxylated derivatives, preferably with an alkylene oxide number of 10 to 200, and more preferably from 10 to 100; sorbitol esters of a C8-C24 fatty acid or acids, preferably C12-C22, and their alkoxylated derivatives, preferably with an alkylene oxide number of 10 to 200, and more preferably of 10 to 100;sugar esters (sucrose, glucose, alkylglycose) of a C8-C24 fatty acid or acids, preferably C12-C22, and their alkoxylated derivatives, preferably with an alkylene oxide number of 10 to 200, and more preferably of 10 to 100; fatty alcohol ethers; sugar ethers of a C8-C24 fatty alcohol or alcohols, preferably C12-C22; and mixtures thereof.;

[0099] Examples of ethoxylated fatty esters that may be cited include adducts of ethylene oxide with esters of lauric acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid or behenic acid, and mixtures thereof, especially those containing from 9 to 100 oxyethylene groups, such as PEG-9 to PEG-50 laurate (under the CTFA names: PEG-9 laurate to PEG-50 laurate); PEG-9 to PEG-50 palmitate (under the CTFA names: PEG-9 palmitate to PEG-50 palmitate); PEG-9 to PEG-50 stearate (under the CTFA names: PEG-9 stearate to PEG-50 stearate); PEG-9 to PEG-50 palmitostearate; PEG-9 to PEG-50 behenate (under the CTFA names: PEG-9 behenate to PEG-50 behenate); polyethylene glycol monostearate 100 EO (CTFA name: PEG-100 stearate) and mixtures thereof.

[0100] As glyceryl esters of fatty acids, mention may be made in particular of glyceryl stearate (glyceryl mono-, di- and / or tristearate) (CTFA name: glyceryl stearate) or glyceryl ricinoleate and mixtures thereof.

[0101] As glyceryl esters of C8-C24 alkoxylated fatty acids, mention may be made, for example, of polyethoxylated glyceryl stearate (glyceryl mono-, di- and / or tristearate) such as PEG-20 glyceryl stearate.

[0102] Mixtures of these surfactants may also be used, such as, for example, the product containing glyceryl stearate and PEG-100 stearate, marketed under the name ARLACEL 165 by Uniqema, and the product containing glyceryl stearate (glyceryl mono- and distearate) and potassium stearate marketed under the name TEG1N by Goldschmidt (CTFA name: glyceryl stearate SE).

[0103] The total amount of the one or more nonionic surfactants in the compositionshair treatment compositions will vary. However, in various embodiments, the hair treatment compositions include about 0.1 to about 10% by weight of the one or more nonionic surfactants or emulsifiers.In other embodiments, the compositions include about 0.1 to about 8 wt%, about 0.1 to about 5 wt%, about 0.1 to about 3 wt%, about 0.5 to about 10 wt%, about 0.5 to about 8 wt%, about 0.5 to about 5 wt%, about 0.5 to about 3 wt%, about 1 to about 10 wt%, about 1 to about 8 wt%, about 1 to about 5 wt%, about 1 to about 3 wt%, about 0.1 wt%, about 0.5 wt%, about 1 wt%, about 1.5 wt%, about 2 wt%, about 2.5 wt%, about 3 wt%, about 5 wt%, about 6 wt%, about 8 wt%, about 10 wt% of the one or more surfactants or non-ionic emulsifiers, relative to a total weight of the compositions. (e) Fatty alcohols

[0104] The expression "fatty alcohol" designates an alcohol comprising at least one hydroxyl group (OH), and comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, and which is neither oxy-alkylenated (in particular neither oxyethylenated nor oxypropylenated), nor glycerolated. Fatty alcohols can be represented by: R-OH, in which R designates a saturated (alkyl) or unsaturated (alkenyl) group, linear or branched, comprising from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 30 carbon atoms, more preferably 12 to 24 carbon atoms, and even more preferably 14 to 22 carbon atoms.

[0105] The fatty alcohol(s) may be liquid or solid. In some cases, it is preferable for the cosmetic compositions to include at least one solid fatty alcohol. The solid fatty alcohols that may be used include those that are solid at room temperature and atmospheric pressure (25°C, 780 mmHg), and are insoluble in water, i.e. they have a solubility in water of less than 1% by weight, preferably less than 0.5% by weight, at 25°C, 1 atm.

[0106] The solid fatty alcohols may be represented by: R-OH, in which R denotes a linear alkyl group, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups, comprising from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 30 carbon atoms, more preferably 12 to 24 carbon atoms, and even more preferably 14 to 22 carbon atoms.

[0107] Non-limiting examples of useful fatty alcohols include lauryl alcohol or lauryl alcohol (1-dodecanol); myristyl alcohol or myristyl alcohol (1-tetradecanol); cetyl alcohol (1-hexadecanol); stearyl alcohol (1-octadecanol); ara-chidyl alcohol (1-eicosanol); behenyl alcohol (1-docosanol); lignoceryl alcohol (1-tetracosanol); ceryl alcohol (1-hexacosanol); montanyl alcohol (1-octacosanol); myricyl alcohol (1-triacontanol), and mixtures thereof.

[0108] In some embodiments, the one or more fatty alcohols comprise from 12 to 24 carbon atoms. Specific non-limiting examples include cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, lignoceryl alcohol, or mixtures thereof.

[0109] Preferably, the cosmetic composition includes one or more solid fatty alcohols, for example, selected from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol and mixtures thereof, preferably cetyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol and mixtures thereof.

[0110] Liquid fatty alcohols, in particular those C10-C34, preferably have branched carbon chains and / or have one or more, preferably 1 to 3 double bonds. They are preferably branched and / or unsaturated (C=C double bond) and contain from 12 to 40 carbon atoms.

[0111] Liquid fatty alcohols may be represented by: R-OH, wherein R denotes a C12-C24 branched alkyl group or an alkenyl group (comprising at least one C12-C24 C=C double bond), R being optionally substituted by one or more hydroxy groups. Preferably, the liquid fatty alcohol is a branched saturated alcohol. Preferably, R does not contain a hydroxyl group. These include oleyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, linolenic alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, 2-octyl-l-dodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyl-l-decanol, 2-decyl-l-tetradecanol, 2-tetradecyl-l-cetanol and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the liquid fatty alcohol is 2-octyl-l-dodecanol.

[0112] In some cases, the cosmetic compositions include one or more fatty alcohols selected from decyl alcohol, undecyl alcohol, dodecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, linalool, oleyl alcohol, myricyl alcohol and a mixture thereof. In some cases, the cosmetic compositions preferably include cetyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol and cetearyl alcohol.

[0113] The total amount of the one or more fatty alcohols in the hair treatment composition will vary. However, in various embodiments, the hair treatment composition includes about 1 to about 15% by weight of the one or more fatty alcohols, based on the total weight of the composition. In additional embodiments, the hair treatment composition includes about 2 to about 15% by weight, about 3 to about 15% by weight, about 4 to about 15% by weight, about 5 to about 15% by weight, about 6 to about 15% by weight, about 1 to about 12% by weight, about 2 to about 12% by weight, about 3 to about 12% by weight, about 4 to about 12% by weight, about 5 to about 12% by weight, about 6 to about 15% by weight, about 1 to about 12 ... by weight, about 6 to about 12% by weight, about 1 to about 10% by weight, about 2 to about 10% by weight, about 3 to about 10% by weight, about 4 to about 10% by weight, about 5 to about 10% by weight, about 6 to about 10% by weight, about 1 to about 8% by weight, about 2 to about 8% by weight, about 3 to about 8% by weight, about 4 to about 8% by weight, about 5 to about 10% by weight, about 2% by weight, about 3% by weight, about 4% by weight, about 5% by weight, about 6% by weight, about 7% by weight, about 8% by weight of the one or more fatty alcohols. (f) amino-functionalized silicones

[0114] The term "amino-functionalized silicone" or the term "aminosilicones" refers to a silicone containing at least one primary amino, secondary amino, tertiary amino and / or quaternary ammonium group. The structure of the amino-functionalized silicone may be linear or branched, cyclic or non-cyclic. The amino functional group may be at any position in the silicone molecule, preferably at the end of the backbone (e.g., in the case of amodi-methicones) and / or in the side chain.

[0115] In certain cases, an amino-functionalized silicone is chosen from the compounds

[0116] wherein each R1 is independently selected from a C1-30 alkyl group, a C1-30 alkoxy group, a C5-30 aryl group, a C6-30 aralkyl group, a C6-30 aralkyloxy group, a C1-30 alkaryl group, a C1-30 alkoxyaryl group, and a hydroxy group (preferably, each R1 is independently selected from a C1-30 alkyl group, a C1-30 alkoxy group, and a hydroxy group);

[0117] each R2 is independently a divalent alkylene radical having one to ten carbon atoms (preferably, R2 is a divalent alkylene radical having three to six carbon atoms);

[0118] each R3 is independently selected from a C1-3O alkyl group, a C5-3O aryl group, a C6-10 aralkyl group and a C1-10 alkaryl group (preferably, each R3 is independently selected from one of a C1-3O alkyl group);

[0119] Q is a monovalent radical chosen from -NR42 and -NICfCfLhNRL;

[0120] each R4 is independently selected from hydrogen and C 1 - alkyl C4;

[0121] x is 2 to 6;

[0122] z is 0 or 1;

[0123] n is 25 to 3,000 (preferably 25 to 2,000; more preferably 25 to 1,000; most preferably 25 to 500); and

[0124] m is 0 to 3000 (preferably 0 to 2000; more preferably 0 to 1000; most preferably 0 to 100);

[0125] provided that at least 50 mol% of the total number of groups R1 and R3 are methyl and provided that when m is 0, z is 1.

[0126] Preferred R1 groups include methyl, methoxy, ethyl, ethoxy, propyl, propoxy, isopropyl, isopropoxy, butyl, butoxy, isobutyl, isobutoxy, phenyl, xenyl, benzyl, phenylethyl, tolyl and hydroxy. Preferred divalent alkylene radicals R2 include trimethylene, tetramethylene, pentamethylene, -CH2CH(CH3)CH2 and -CH2CH2CH(CH3)CH2.

[0127] Preferred R3 groups include methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, butyl, isobutyl, phenyl, xenyl, benzyl, phenylethyl, and tolyl. Preferred R4 groups include methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, butyl, and isobutyl. When z is 0, the amino-functionalized silicone has only pendant amine functional substituents in the polymer chain. When z is 1, the amino-functionalized silicone may have only terminal amine functional substituents (e.g., m = 0) or may have both terminal and pendant amine functional substituents in the polymer chain (e.g., m > 0). Preferably, n + m is 50 to 1000. More preferably, n + m is 50 to 750. Even more preferably, n + m is 50 to 500. Most preferably, n + m is 50 to 250.

[0128] In some cases, the amino-functionalized silicones are alkoxylated and / or hydroxylated aminosilicones. Suitable alkoxylated and / or hydroxylated amino silicones may be chosen from compounds of the following formula: R3 C^H3 jîH3 Si O^i O^i -OSi--- ch3 ch3 X R4 ch3 V r3

[0129] in which R3 is hydroxyl or OR5, R5 is a C1-C4 alkyl group, R4 is a group comprising a structure according to the following formula: - CH2 CH CH2 NH (CH2)n nh2 ' r6

[0130] R6 is C1-C4 alkyl, n is 1 to 4, x is the same as "n" described above, and y is the same as "m" described above.

[0131] The silicone may be a polysiloxane corresponding to the following formula:

[0132] wherein x' and y' are integers such that the weight average molecular weight (Mw) is between about 5,000 and 500,000;

[0133] b) amino silicones corresponding to the following formula:

[0134] R' aG3.a-Si(OSiG2)n-(OSiGbR' 2 b)mO-SiG3 a-R'a

[0135] in which:

[0136] G, which may be the same or different, denotes a hydrogen atom, or a phenyl, OH or a C1-C8 alkyl group, for example a methyl, or a C1-C8 alkoxy, for example a methoxy,

[0137] a, which may be identical or different, denote the number 0 or an integer from 1 to 3, in particular 0;

[0138] b denotes 0 or 1, and in particular 1;

[0139] m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) ranges from 1 to 2,000 and in particular from 50 to 150, knowing that n can designate a number from 0 to 1,999 and in particular from 49 to 149, and that m can designate a number from 1 to 2,000 and in particular from 1 to 10;

[0140] R', which may be identical or different, denote a monovalent radical of formula -CqH2qL in which q is a number from 2 to 8 and L is an optionally quaternized amino group selected from the following groups:

[0141] -NR"-QN(R")2

[0142] -N(R”)2

[0143] -N+(R")3 A-

[0144] -N+H(R")2 A-

[0145] -N+H2(R") A-

[0146] -N(R")-Q-N+R"H2 A-

[0147] -NR"-Q-N+ (R")2H A-

[0148] -NR"-Q-N+ (R")3 A-,

[0149] in which R", which may be identical or different, denotes a hydrogen, a phenyl, a benzyl, or a saturated monovalent hydrocarbon radical, for example a C1-C20 alkyl radical; Q denotes a linear or branched CrH2r group, r being an integer ranging from 2 to 6, preferably from 2 to 4; and A- represents a cosmetically acceptable ion, in particular a halide such as a fluoride, chloride, bromide or iodide.

[0150] Another group of amino silicones corresponding to this definition is represented by silicones having the following formula:

[0151] in which:

[0152] m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) can range from 1 to 1,000, in particular from 50 to 250 and more particularly from 100 to 200, knowing that n can designate a number from 0 to 999 and in particular from 49 to 249, and more particularly from 125 to 175, and that m can designate a number from 1 to 1,000 and in particular from 1 to 10, and more particularly from 1 to 5;

[0153] R1, R2, R3, which may be identical or different, represent a C1-C4 hydroxy or alkoxy radical, where at least one of the radicals R1 to R3 denotes an alkoxy radical.

[0154] The alkoxy radical is preferably a methoxy radical. The hydroxy / alkoxy molar ratio preferably ranges from 0.2:1 to 0.4:1 and preferably from 0.25:1 to 0.35:1 and more particularly, is equal to 0.3:1. The weight average molecular weight (Mw) of the silicone preferably ranges from 2,000 to 1,000,000, more particularly from 3,500 to 200,000.

[0155] Another amino silicone group corresponding to this definition is represented by the following formula:

[0156]

[0157]

[0158]

[0159]

[0160] in which: p and q are numbers such that the sum (p + q) ranges from 1 to 1,000, in particular from 50 to 350, and more particularly from 150 to 250; knowing that p can designate a number from 0 to 999 and in particular from 49 to 349, and more particularly from 159 to 239 and that q can designate a number from 1 to 1,000, in particular from 1 to 10, and more particularly from 1 to 5;

[0161]

[0162]

[0163]

[0164] Rb R2, which may be the same or different, represent a C1-C4 hydroxy or alkoxy radical, where at least one of the radicals R1 or R2 denotes an alkoxy radical. The alkoxy radical is preferably a methoxy radical. The hydroxy / alkoxy molar ratio generally ranges from 1:0.8 to 1:1.1 and preferably from 1:0.9 to 1:1 and more particularly, is equal to 1:0.95. Another amino silicone group is represented by the following formula: ÇH3 I” ÇH3 ”| P ÇH3 P çh3 HO--'S— ch3 j in which: m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) ranges from 1 to 2,000 and in particular from 50 to 150, knowing that n can designate a number from 0 to 1,999 and in particular from 49 to 149, and that m can designate a number from 1 to 2,000 and in particular from 1 to 10; A denotes a linear or branched alkylene radical containing 4 to 8 carbon atoms and preferably 4 carbon atoms. This radical is preferably linear. The weight average molecular mass (Mw) of these aminosilicones preferably ranges from 2,000 to 1,000,000 and even more particularly from 3,500 to 200,000.

[0165] Another amino silicone group is represented by the following formula: L

[0166] in which:

[0167] m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) ranges from 1 to 2,000 and in particular from 50 to 150, knowing that n can designate a number from 0 to 1,999 and in particular from 49 to 149, and that m can designate a number from 1 to 2,000 and in particular from 1 to 10;

[0168] A denotes a linear or branched alkylene radical containing from 4 to 8 carbon atoms and preferably 4 carbon atoms. This radical is preferably branched.

[0169] The weight-average molecular mass (Mw) of these aminosilicones preferably ranges from 500 to 1,000,000 and even more particularly from 1,000 to 200,000.

[0170] Another amino silicone group is represented by the following formula: CHg—Q (H)

[0171] in which:

[0172] R5 represents a monovalent hydrocarbon radical containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular a C1-C18 alkyl or C2-C18 alkenyl radical, for example a methyl;

[0173] R6 represents a divalent hydrocarbon radical, in particular a C1-C18 alkylene radical or a divalent CrCi8 alkyleneoxy radical, for example CrC8, linked to Si via an SiC bond;

[0174] Q- is an anion such as a halide ion, in particular chloride, or an organic acid salt (for example acetate);

[0175] r represents an average statistical value from 2 to 20 and in particular from 2 to 8;

[0176] s represents an average statistical value of 20 to 200 and in particular of 20 to 50.

[0177] Such amino silicones are described more particularly in the patent US 4,185,087.

[0178] A group of quaternary ammonium silicones is represented by the following formula: R? OH - R? —S]-O 2X' R CHOH-CH <n (I)

[0179]

[0180]

[0181]

[0182]

[0183]

[0184]

[0185]

[0186]

[0187]

[0188]

[0189]

[0190]

[0191]

[0192] in which: R7, which may be identical or different, represent a monovalent hydrocarbon radical containing 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular a C1-C18 alkyl radical, a C2-C18 alkenyl radical or a ring containing 5 or 6 carbon atoms, for example a methyl; R6 represents a divalent hydrocarbon radical, in particular a C1-C18 alkylene radical or a divalent CrCi8 alkyleneoxy radical, for example C1-C8, linked to Si via an SiC bond; R8, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, a monovalent hydrocarbon radical containing 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular a C1-C18 alkyl radical, a C2-C18 alkenyl radical or a -R6-NHCOR7x radical; X- is an anion such as a halide ion, especially a chloride, or an organic acid salt (e.g., an acetate); r represents an average statistical value from 2 to 200 and in particular from 5 to 100. These silicones are described, for example, in patent application EP-A 0530974. A group of quaternary ammonium silicones is represented by the following formula: O r3 ---has- „ x < (J) in which: R1, R2, R3 and R4, which may be identical or different, denote a C1-C4 alkyl radical or a phenyl group; R5 denotes a C1-C4 alkyl radical or a hydroxyl group; n is an integer ranging from 1 to 5; m is an integer ranging from 1 to 5; and in which x is chosen such that the amine index is between 0.01 and 1 meq / g; multiblock polyoxyalkylenated aminosilicones, of the (AB)n type, A being a po- block lysiloxane and B being a polyoxyalkylene block containing at least one amine group.

[0193] Said silicones are preferably made up of repeating units having the following developed formulas:

[0194] [-(SiMe2O)xSiMe2-RN(R")-R'-O(C2H4O)a(C3H6O)b-R'-N(H)-R-]

[0195] or alternatively

[0196] [-(SiMe2O)xSiMe2-RN(R")-R'-O(C2H4O)a(C3H6O)b-]

[0197] in which:

[0198] a is an integer greater than or equal to 1, preferably ranging from 5 to 200, more particularly ranging from 10 to 100;

[0199] b is an integer between 0 and 200, preferably between 4 and 100, more particularly between 5 and 30;

[0200] x is an integer ranging from 1 to 10,000, more particularly from 10 to 5,000; R" is a hydrogen atom or a methyl;

[0201] R, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched C2-C12 divalent hydrocarbon radical, optionally comprising one or more heteroatoms such as oxygen; preferably, R denotes an ethylene radical, a linear or branched propylene radical, a linear or branched butylene radical, or a -CH2CH2CH2OCH(OH)CH2- radical; preferably R denotes a -CH2CH2CH2 OCH(OH)CH2- radical;

[0202] R', which may be identical or different, represent a hydrocarbon radical divalent C2-C12 linear or branched, optionally comprising one or more heteroatoms such as oxygen; preferably, R' denotes an ethylene radical, a linear or branched propylene radical, a linear or branched butylene radical, or a radical -CH2CH2CH2OCH(OH)CH2-; preferably, R' denotes -CH(CH3)-CH2-,

[0203] The siloxane blocks preferably represent between 50 and 95 mol% of the total weight of the silicone, more particularly from 70 to 85 mol%.

[0204] The amine content is preferably between 0.02 and 0.5 meq / g of copolymer in a 30% solution in dipropylene glycol, more particularly between 0.05 and 0.2. The weight average molecular weight (Mw) of the silicone oil is preferably between 5,000 and 1,000,000, more particularly between 10,000 and 200,000.

[0205] Non-limiting examples of amino-functional silicones include bis-hydroxy / methoxy amodimethicones, bis-cetearyl amodimethicone, amodimethicone, bis(C13-15 alkoxy) PG amodimethicones, aminopropyl phenyl trimethicones, aminopropyl dimethicones, bis-amino PEG / PPG-41 / 3 aminoethyl PG-propyl dimethicones, caprylyl methicones and a combination thereof. In some cases, a particularly useful amino-functionalized silicone is bis-hydroxy / methoxy amodimethicone, where X is isobutyl and one of the Rs is OH and the other is OCH3 in the above structure, also known as “Bis-hydroxy / methoxy amodimethicone” and “3-[(2-aminoethyl)amino]-2-methylpropyl Me, di-Me, terminated [(hydroxydimethylsilyl)oxy]- and [(methoxydimethylsilyl)oxy]”. Bis-hydroxy / methoxy amodimethicone is commercially available under the trademark DOWSIL AP-8087 FLUID from the Dow Chemical Company. A particularly preferred amino-functionalized silicone is amodimethicone. A non-limiting example of amodimethicone products containing amino silicones of structure (D) is sold by Wacker under the name Belsil ADM 652, BELSIL ADM 4000 E, or BELSIL ADM LOG 1. A product containing amino silicones having structure (E) is sold by Wacker under the name Fluid WR 1300. Additionally or alternatively, the weight average molecular weight (Mw) of the silicone is preferably from 2,000 to 200,000, even more preferably from 5,000 to 100,000 and most preferably from 10,000 to 50,000.

[0206] In a preferred embodiment, one or more amino-functionalized silicones are selected from amodimethicone, bis-hydroxy / methoxy amodimethicone, bis-cetearyl amodimethicone, bis(C13-C15 alkoxy) PG amodimethicone, aminopropyl phenyl trimethicone, aminopropyl dimethicone, bis-amino PEG / PPG-41 / 3 aminoethyl PG-propyl dimethicone, or a mixture thereof. In another preferred embodiment, the amino-functionalized silicone is amodimethicone.

[0207] The total amount of the one or more amino-functionalized silicones in the compositions will vary. However, in various embodiments, the compositions include from about 1 to about 18% by weight of one or more amino-functionalized silicones, based on the total weight of the composition. In additional embodiments, the compositions include about 1 to about 15 wt%, about 1 to about 12 wt%, about 1 to about 10 wt%, about 1 to about 8 wt%, about 1 to about 6 wt%, about 2 to about 18 wt%, about 2 to about 12 wt%, about 2 to about 10 wt%, about 2 to about 10 wt%, about 2 to about 8 wt%, about 2 to about 6 wt%, about 3 to about 18 wt%, about 3 to about 15 wt%, about 3 to about 12 wt%, about 3 to about 10 wt%, about 3 to about 8 wt%, about 3 to about 6 wt%,about 4 to about 18 wt%, about 4 to about 15 wt%, about 4 to about 12 wt%, about 4 to about 10 wt%, about 4 to about 8 wt%, about 4 to about 6 wt%, about 1 wt%, about 2 wt%, about 3 wt%, about 4 wt%, about 5 wt%, about 6 wt%, about 7 wt%, about 8 wt%, of the one or more amino-functionalized silicones, based on the total weight of the composition. (g) Water-soluble solvents

[0208] The term "water-soluble organic solvent" is interchangeable with the terms "water-soluble solvent" and "water-miscible solvent" and means a compound that is liquid at 25°C and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg), and has a solubility of at least 50% in water under these conditions. In some cases, the water-soluble solvent has a solubility of at least 60%, 70%, 80%, or 90%. Non-limiting examples of water-soluble solvents include, for example, organic solvents selected from glycerin, alcohols (e.g., C1-8, C1-4 alcohols), polyols (polyhydric alcohols), glycols, and a mixture thereof.

[0209] Non-limiting examples of water-soluble organic solvents. Non-limiting examples of water-soluble organic solvents include, for example, organic solvents selected from glycerin, alcohols (e.g., C 1 -C 8 , or C 1 -C 8 alcohols), polyols (polyhydric alcohols), glycols, and a mixture thereof. Non-limiting examples of monoalcohols and polyols include ethyl alcohol, isopropyl alcohol, propyl alcohol, benzyl alcohol and phenylethyl alcohol, or glycols or glycol ethers such as, for example, monomethyl, monoethyl and monobutyl ethers of ethylene glycol, propylene glycol or its ethers such as, for example, monomethyl ether of propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, di-propylene glycol, as well as alkyl ethers of diethylene glycol, for example, monoethyl ether or monobutyl ether of diethylene glycol.Other suitable examples of organic solvents are ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, propane diol, and glycerin.

[0210] Other non-limiting examples of water-soluble organic solvents include alkanediols (polyhydric alcohols) such as glycerin, 1,2,6-hexanetriol, trimethylolpropane, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, diethylene glycol, triethylene glycol, tetraethylene glycol, pentaethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, 2-butene-1,4-diol, 2-ethyl-1,3-hexanediol, 2-methyl-2,4-pentanediol, (caprylyl glycol), 1,2-hexanediol, 1,2-pentanediol and 4-methyl-1,2-pentanediol; alkyl alcohols having 1 to 4 carbon atoms such as ethanol, methanol, butanol, propanol and isopropanol;glycol ethers such as ethylene glycol monomethyl ether, ethylene glycol monoethyl ether, ethylene glycol monobutyl ether, ethylene glycol monomethyl ether acetate, diethylene glycol monomethyl ether, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether, diethylene glycol mono-n-propyl ether, ethylene glycol mono-iso-propyl ether, diethylene glycol mono-iso-propyl ether, ethylene glycol mono-n-butyl ether, ethylene glycol mono-t-butyl ether, diethylene glycol mono-t-butyl ether, 1-methyl-l-methoxybutanol, propylene glycol monomethyl ether, propylene glycol monoethyl ether, propylene glycol mono-t-butyl ether, propylene glycol mono-n-propyl ether, propylene glycol mono-iso-propyl ether, di- monomethyl ether; propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol monoethyl ether, dipropylene glycol mono-n-propyl ether and dipropylene glycol mono-iso-propyl ether; 2-pyrrolidone, N-methyl-2-pyrrolidone, l,3-dimethyl-2-imidazolidinone, formamide, acetamide, diethyl sulfoxide, sorbit, sorbitan, acetin, diacetin, triacetin, sulfolane and mixtures thereof.

[0211] Polyhydric alcohols are useful. Examples of polyhydric alcohols include glycerin, ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, triethylene glycol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, tripropylene glycol, 1,3-butanediol, 2,3-butanediol, 1,4-butanediol, 3-methyl-1,3-butanediol, 1,5-pentanediol, tetraethylene glycol, 1,6-hexanediol, 2-methyl-2,4-pentanediol, polyethylene glycol, 1,2,4-butanetriol, 1,2,6-hexanetriol, and mixtures thereof. Polyol compounds may also be used.Non-limiting examples include aliphatic diols, such as 2-ethyl-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol, 3,3-dimethyl-1,2-butanediol, 2,2-diethyl-1,3-propanediol, 2-methyl-2-propyl-1,3-propanediol, 2,4-dimethyl-2,4-pentanediol, 2,5-dimethyl-2,5-hexanediol, 5-hexene-1,2-diol and 2-ethyl-1,3-hexanediol and mixtures thereof.

[0212] In a preferred embodiment, the composition includes one or more glycols selected from glycerin, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, dipropylene glycol, and mixtures thereof.

[0213] The total amount of the one or more water-soluble solvents in the composition, if present, will vary. However, in various embodiments, the compositions include about 0.1 to about 20% by weight of the one or more water-soluble solvents, based on the total weight of the compositions. In other embodiments, the compositions include about 0.1 to about 15% by weight, about 0.1 to about 10% by weight, about 0.1 to about 8% by weight, about 0.1 to about 5% by weight, about 0.5 to about 20% by weight, about 0.5 to about 15% by weight, about 0.5 to about 10% by weight, about 0.5 to about 8% by weight, about 0.5 to about 5% by weight, about 1 to about 20% by weight, about 1 to about 15% by weight, about 1 to about 10% by weight, about 1 to about 8% by weight, about 1 to about 5% by weight, about 2 to about 20% by weight, about 2 to about 15% by weight, about 2 to about 10% by weight,about 2 to about 8% by weight, or about 2 to about 5% by weight, about 1% by weight, about 1.5% by weight, about 2% by weight, about 2.5% by weight, about 3% by weight, about 3.5% by weight, about 4% by weight, about 4.5% by weight, about 5% by weight or more water-soluble solvents, based on a total weight of the composition, (h) Water.

[0214] The total amount of water in the hair treatment compositions will vary. However, in various embodiments, the hair treatment compositions include about 50 to about 90% by weight of water, based on the total weight compositions. In additional embodiments, the hair treatment composition includes about 60 to about 90 wt%, about 70 to about 90 wt%, about 50 to about 85 wt%, about 60 to about 85 wt%, about 70 to about 85 wt%, about 50 to about 80 wt%, about 60 to about 80 wt%, about 70 to about 80 wt%, about 65 to about 85 wt%, about 60 wt%, about 65 wt%, about 70 wt%, about 75 wt%, about 80 wt%, about 85 wt%, based on the total weight of the compositions. (i) Non-silicone fatty compounds

[0215] The expression "fatty substance" means a silicone-free organic compound which is insoluble in water at ordinary temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg), i.e. which has a solubility of less than 5%, preferably less than 1% and even more preferably less than 0.1%. They have in their structure a hydrocarbon chain containing at least 6 carbon atoms.

[0216] More particularly, the one or more non-silicone-based fatty compounds may be chosen from C6-C16 hydrocarbons, hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, non-silicone oils of animal origin, vegetable oils of triglyceride type, synthetic triglycerides, fluorinated oils, fatty alcohols, non-salified fatty acids, fatty acid and / or fatty alcohol esters other than triglycerides and vegetable waxes, non-silicone waxes and silicones, and mixtures thereof.

[0217] Fatty alcohols, fatty esters and fatty acids more particularly contain one or more linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based groups comprising 6 to 30 carbon atoms, which are optionally substituted, in particular, by one or more (in particular 1 to 4) hydroxyl groups. If unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three conjugated or unconjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.

[0218] With respect to C6-C16 hydrocarbons, they are linear, branched or optionally cyclic, and are preferably alkanes. Examples that may be mentioned include hexane, dodecane and isoparaffins such as isohexadecane and isodecane.

[0219] One animal-derived hydrocarbon-based oil that may be cited is perhydrosqualene.

[0220] The triglyceride oils of vegetable or synthetic origin are preferentially chosen from triglycerides of liquid fatty acids comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, for example triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acid, or alternatively, for example, sunflower oil, corn oil, soybean oil, marrow oil, grape seed oil, sesame oil, hazelnut oil, apricot oil, macadamia, arara oil, castor oil, avocado oil, caprylic / capric acid triglycerides, for example those sold by the company Stéarinerie Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol® 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil and shea butter oil.

[0221] Linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, containing more than 16 carbon atoms, are preferably chosen from liquid paraffins, petroleum jelly, vaseline oil, polydecenes and hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam®.

[0222] The fluorinated oils may be chosen from perfluoromethylcyclopentane and perfluoro-1,3-dimethylcyclohexane, marketed under the names Flutec® PCI and Flutec® PC3 by the company BNFL Fluorochemicals; perfluoro-1,2-dimethylcyclobutane; perfluoroalkanes such as dodecafluoropentane and tetrafluorohexane, marketed under the names PF 5050® and PF 5060® by the company 3M, or bromoperfluorooctyl marketed under the name Foralkyl® by the company Atochem; nonafluoromethoxybutane and nonafluoroethoxyisobutane; perfluoromorpholinic derivatives such as 4-trifluoromethyl perfluoromorpholine marketed under the name PF 5052® by the company 3M.

[0223] The fatty alcohols which can be used in the cosmetic composition of step a) include saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alcohols containing from 6 to 30 carbon atoms and more particularly from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, among which mention may be made of cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and their mixture (cetylstearyl alcohol or cetearyl alcohol), octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, oleyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol.

[0224] The non-salified fatty acids which can be used in the cosmetic composition of step a) can be saturated or unsaturated carboxylic acids comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms and in particular from 9 to 30 carbon atoms. They are more particularly chosen from myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, behenic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid and isostearic acid.

[0225] These acids are not salified. This means that they are introduced in the form of free acids and that the composition does not include any alkaline agent leading to their salification.

[0226] The esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols, advantageously different from the triglycerides mentioned above, which can be used in the cosmetic composition used in step a) are esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C1-C26 aliphatic mono- or polyacids and of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C1-C26 aliphatic mono- or polyalcohols, the total number of carbons of the esters being more particularly greater than or equal to 10. Among the mo noesters, we can cite dihydroabietyl behenate; octyldodecyl behenate; isocetyl behenate; cetyl lactate; C12-C15 alkyl lactate; isostearyl lactate; lauryl lactate; linoleyl lactate; oleyl lactate; (iso)stearyl octanoate; isocetyl octanoate; octyl octanoate; cetyl octanoate; decyl oleate; isocetyl isostearate; isocetyl laurate; isocetyl stearate; isodecyl octanoate; isodecyl oleate; isononyl isonanoate; isostearyl palmitate; methylacetyl ricinoleate; myristyl stearate; octyl isononanoate; 2-ethylhexyl isononate; octyl palmitate; octyl pelargonate; octyl stearate; octyldodecyl erucate; oleyl erucate;ethyl and isopropyl palmitates, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl, butyl, cetyl, 2-octyldodecyl, myristyl or stearyl myristate, hexyl stearate, butyl stearate, isobutyl stearate; dioctyl malate, hexyl laurate and 2-hexyldecyl laurate. ;

[0227] Still in the context of this variant, esters of C4-C22 dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and C1-C22 alcohols and esters of mono-, di- or tricarboxylic acids and C2-C26 di-, tri-, tetra- or pentahydroxy alcohols may also be used.

[0228] Mention may also be made in particular of: diethyl sebacate; diisopropyl sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; di(n-propyl) adipate; dioctyl adipate; diisostearyl adipate; dioctyl maleate; glyceryl undecylenate; octyldodecyl stearoyl stearate; pentaerythrityl monoricinoleate; pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate; pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate; pentaerythrityl tetraoctanoate; pentaerythrityl glycol dicaprylate; propylene glycol dicaprate; tridecyl erucate; triisopropyl citrate; triisostearyl citrate; glyceryl trilactate; glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate; propylene glycol dioctanoate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; diethylene glycol diisononanoate and polyethylene glycol distearates.

[0229] Among the above-mentioned esters, it is preferable to use ethyl, isopropyl, myristyl, cetyl or stearyl palmitates, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl, butyl, cetyl or 2-octyldodecyl myristate, hexyl stearate, butyl stearate, isobutyl stearate; dioctyl malate, hexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate, isononyl isonanoate or cetyl octanoate.

[0230] The esters according to this variant can also be chosen from monoesters, diesters, triesters, tetraesters, polyesters, and mixtures thereof. These esters can be, for example example, oleates, laurates, palmitates, myristates, behenates, cocoates, stearates, linoleates, linolenates, caprates and arachidonates, or mixtures thereof such as, in particular, mixed esters of oleopalmitate, oleostearate and palmitostearate. More particularly, use is made of mono- and diesters and, in particular, mono- or di-oleate, -stearate, -behenate, -oleate / palmitate, -linoleate, -linolenate or -oleostearate of sucrose, glucose or methylglucose.

[0231] The wax(es) which may be used in the cosmetic composition used in step a) are chosen, in particular, from carnauba wax, candelilla wax, esparto wax, paraffin wax, ozokerite, vegetable waxes, for example olive wax, rice wax, hydrogenated jojoba wax or absolute flower waxes such as blackcurrant flower essential wax marketed by the company Bertin (France), animal waxes, for example beeswax, or modified beeswax (cerabellin); other waxes or waxy starting materials which may be used according to the invention are, in particular, marine waxes such as the product marketed by the company Sophim under the reference M82, and polyethylene or polyolefin waxes in general.

[0232] In a preferred embodiment, the one or more non-silicone fatty compounds are selected from oils, waxes, linear or branched alkanes, fatty esters, fatty acid esters, fatty alcohol esters, cetyl esters, triglycerides, or a mixture thereof.

[0233] The total amount of the one or more non-silicone fatty compounds in the compositions, if present, will vary. However, in various embodiments, the compositions include about 0.1 to about 20% by weight of the one or more non-silicone fatty compounds, based on the total weight of the compositions. In other embodiments, the compositions include about 0.1 to about 15% by weight, about 0.1 to about 12% by weight, about 0.1 to about 10% by weight, about 0.1 to about 8% by weight, about 0.1 to about 5% by weight, about 0.5 to about 20% by weight, about 0.5 to about 15% by weight, about 0.5 to about 12% by weight, about 0.5 to about 10% by weight, about 0.5 to about 8% by weight, about 0.5 to about 5% by weight, about 1 to about 20% by weight, about 1 to about 15% by weight, about 1 to about 12% by weight, about 1 to about 10% by weight, about 1 to about 8% by weight, about 1 to about 5% by weight, or about 2 to about 20% by weight, or about 2 to about 15% by weight, or about 2 to about 12% by weight, or about 2 to about 10% by weight, or about 2 to about 8% by weight, or about 2 to about 5% by weight, or about 3 to about 5% by weight based on the total weight of the compositions. (j) Cationic conditioning polymer

[0234] Cationic polymers within the meaning of the present disclosure are polymers carrying a positive charge or incorporating cationic entities into their structure. Cationic polymers may comprise mixtures of monomer units derived from amine- and / or quaternary ammonium-substituted monomer and / or compatible spacer monomers. Cationic polymers often provide conditioning benefits to hair treatment compositions and may therefore be referred to as “cationic conditioning polymers.”» Non-limiting examples of cationic polymers include copolymers of l-vinyl-2-pyrrolidine and l-vinyl-3-methyl-imidazolium salt (e.g., chloride salt) (referred to as Polyquaternium-16); copolymers of l-vinyl-2-pyrrolidine and dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate (referred to as Polyquaternium-11); a cationic polymer containing a diallyl quaternary ammonium including, for example, dimethyldiallylammonium chloride homopolymer and copolymers of acrylamide and dimethyldiallylammonium chloride (referred to as Polyquaternium-6 and Polyquaternium-7); polysaccharide polymers, such as cationic cellulose derivatives and cationic starch derivatives. Cationic cellulose is available as salts of hydroxyethyl cellulose reacted with a trimethyl ammonium substituted epoxide (called Poly-quatemium-10).Another type of cationic cellulose includes polymeric quaternary ammonium salts of hydroxyethylcellulose reacted with a lauryl dimethyl ammonium substituted epoxide (referred to as Polyquatemium-24). Additionally or alternatively, the cationic conditioning polymers may include or be selected from cationic derivatives of guar gum, such as guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride.

[0235] Preferred cationic polymers include cationic polysaccharide polymers, such as cationic cellulose, cationic starch, and cationic guar gum. In the context of the present disclosure, cationic polysaccharide polymers include cationic polysaccharides and polysaccharide derivatives (e.g., derivatized to be cationic), e.g., resulting in cationic cellulose (cellulose derivatized to be cationic), cationic starch (derivatized to be cationic), cationic guar (guar derivatized to be cationic).

[0236] Non-limiting examples of cationic celluloses include hydroxyethylcellulose (also known as HEC), hydroxymethylcellulose, methylhydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose (also known as HPC), hydroxybutylcellulose, hydroxyethylmethylcellulose (also known as methyl hydroxyethylcellulose) and hydroxypropylmethylcellulose (also known as HPMC), cetyl hydroxyethylcellulose, polyquaternium-10, polyquaternium-24, and mixtures thereof, preferably polyquaternium-10, polyquaternium-24, and mixtures thereof.

[0237] Non-limiting examples of cationic guar include guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, guar hydroxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride, and mixtures thereof.

[0238] Non-limiting examples of cationic starch include chloride hydroxypropyltrimonium starch, oxidized hydroxypropyltrimonium starch PG chloride, and mixtures thereof.

[0239] Dans certains modes de réalisation, la composition de traitement des cheveux peut inclure un ou plusieurs polyquaterniums. Des exemples non limitatifs incluent poly-quatemium-1, polyquaternium-2, polyquaternium-3, polyquaternium-4, poly-quatemium-5, polyquaternium-6, polyquaternium-7, polyquaternium-8, poly-quatemium-9, polyquaternium-10, polyquaternium-11, polyquaternium-12, poly-quatemium-13, polyquaternium-14, polyquaternium-15, polyquaternium-16, poly-quatemium-17, polyquaternium-18, polyquaternium-19, polyquaternium-20, poly-quatemium-21, polyquaternium-22, polyquaternium-23, polyquaternium-24, poly-quatemium-25, polyquaternium-26, polyquaternium-27, polyquaternium-28, poly-quatemium-29, polyquaternium-30, polyquaternium-40, polyquaternium-41, poly-quatemium-42, polyquaternium-43, polyquaternium-44, polyquaternium-45, poly-quatemium-46, polyquaternium-47, polyquaternium-48, polyquaternium-49, poly-quatemium-50, polyquaternium-51, polyquaternium-52, polyquaternium-53,polyquaternium-54, polyquaternium-55, polyquaternium-56, polyquaternium-57, polyquaternium-58, polyquaternium-59, polyquaternium-60, polyquaternium-61, polyquaternium-62, polyquaternium-63, polyquaternium-64, polyquaternium-65, polyquaternium-66, polyquaternium-67, etc. In some cases, preferred polyquaternium compounds include polyquaternium-10, polyquaternium-11, polyquaternium-67, and a mixture thereof. ,

[0240] In some embodiments, the hair treatment composition may include Polyquatemium-1 (ethanol, 2,2',2"-nitrilotris-, polymer with 1,4-dichloro-2-butene and N,N,N',N'-tetramethyl-2-butene-1,4-diamine), Poly-quatemium-2, (poly[bis(2-chloroethyl)-alt-1,3-bis[3-(dimethylamino)propyl]urea] ether), Poly-quatemium-4, (dimethyl diallylammonium chloride cellulose copolymer; diallyldimethylammonium chloride-hydroxyethyl cellulose copolymer), Poly-quatemium-5 (quatemized acrylamide and dimethylammonium ethyl methacrylate copolymer), Polyquatemium-6 (poly(diallyldimethylammonium chloride)), Polyquaternium-7 (copolymer of acrylamide and diallyl dimethylammonium chloride), Polyquaternium-8 (copolymer of methyl and stearyl dimethylaminoethyl ester of methacrylic acid, quaternized with dimethyl sulfate), Polyquaternium-9 (homopolymer of N,N-(dimethylamino)ethyl ester of me- thacrylic acid, quaternized with bromomethane), Polyquatemium-10 (quaternized hydroxyethyl cellulose), Polyquatemium-11 (quaternized vinylpyrrolidone-dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer), Polyquatemium-12 (ethyl methacrylate / abietyl methacrylate / diethylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer quaternized with dimethyl sulfate), Polyquatemium-13 (ethyl methacrylate / oleyl methacrylate methacrylate / diethylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer quaternized with dimethyl sulfate), Polyquatemium-14 (trimethylaminoethyl methacrylate homopolymer), Polyquatemium-15 (acrylamide-dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate methyl chloride copolymer), Polyquatemium-16 (vinylpyrrolidone copolymer and quaternized vinylimidazole), Polyquatemium-17 (copolymer of adipic acid, dimethylaminopropylamine and dichloroethyl ether), Polyquatemium-18 (copolymer of azelaic acid,of dimethylaminopropylamine and dichloroethyl ether), Polyquatemium-19 (copolymer of poly(vinyl alcohol) and 2,3-epoxypropylamine), Polyquatemium-20 (copolymer of poly(vinyl octadecyl ether) and 2,3-epoxypropylamine), Polyquatemium-22 (copolymer of acrylic acid and diallyldimethylammonium chloride), Polyquaternium-24 (quaternary ammonium salt of hydroxyethylcellulose reacted with an epoxide substituted by lauryl dimethylammonium), Polyquatemium-27 (block copolymer of Polyquatemium-2 and Polyquatemium-17), Polyquaternium-28 (copolymer of vinylpyrrolidone and methacrylate trimethylammonium), Polyquatemium-29 (chitosan modified with propylene oxide and quaternized with epichlorohydrin), Polyquatemium-30 (ethanaminium, N- , (carboxymethyl)-N,N-dimethyl-2-[(2-methyl- l-oxo-2-propen- l-yl)oxy]-, inner salt, polymer with methyl 2-methyl-2-propenoate), Polyquaternium-31 (N,N-di-methylaminopropyl-N-acrylamidine quaternized with diethyl sulfate linked to a polyacrylonitrile block), Polyquaternium-32 (poly(acrylamide 2-methacryloxyethyltrimethylammonium) chloride), Polyquaternium-33 (copolymer of trimethylaminoethylacrylate salt and acrylamide), Polyquaternium-34 (copolymer of 1,3-dibromopropane and N,N-diethyl-N',N'-dimethyl-1,3-propanediamine), Poly-quaternium-35 (methosulfate of the copolymer of methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium and methacryloyloxyethyldimethylacetylammonium), Poly-quaternium-36 (copolymer of N,N-dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate and butyl methacrylate, quaternized with dimethyl sulfate), Polyquaternium-37 (poly(2-methacryloxyethyltrimethylammonium) chloride), Polyquaternium-39 (terpolymer of acrylic acid,acrylamide and diallyldimethylammonium chloride), Polyquatemium-42 (poly[oxyethylene(dimethylimino)ethylene (dimethylimino)ethylene] dichloride), Poly- , quaternium-43 (copolymer of acrylamide, acrylamidopropyltrimonium chloride, 2-amidopropylacrylamide sulfonate and dimethylaminopropylamine), Poly-quaternium-44 (copolymer of 3-Methyl-l-vinylimidazolium-N-vinylpyrrolidone methyl sulfate), Polyquaternium-45 (copolymer of (N-methyl-N-ethoxy glycine) methacrylate and N,N-dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate, quaternized with dimethyl sulfate), Polyquaternium-46 (copolymer of N,N-dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate, quaternized with dimethyl sulfate), Polyquaternium-47 (terpolymer of acrylic acid, methacrylamidopropyl trimethylammonium chloride and methyl acrylate) and / or Poly quaternium- 67.

[0241] In some embodiments, the hair treatment compositions of the present disclosure include one or more cationic polymers selected from cationic cellulose derivatives, quaternized hydroxyethylcellulose (e.g., polyquaternium-10), cationic starch derivatives, cationic guar gum derivatives, copolymers of acrylamide and dimethyldiallyammonium chloride (e.g., polyquaternium-7), polyquaterniums, and a mixture thereof. For example, the cationic polymer(s) may be selected from polyquaterniums, for example, polyquaterniums selected from polyquaternium-4, polyquaternium-5, polyquaternium-6, polyquaternium-7, polyquaternium-10, polyquaternium-22, polyquaternium-37, polyquaternium-39, polyquaternium-47, polyquaternium-53, polyquaternium-67 and a mixture thereof. A combination of two or more polyquaterniums may be useful.A particularly preferred and useful cationic polymer is polyquaternium-10.

[0242] In some embodiments, the hair treatment compositions include one or more cationic polymers selected from cationic proteins and cationic protein hydrolysates (e.g., hydroxypropyltrimonium hydrolyzed wheat protein), quaternary diammonium polymers (e.g., hexadimethrine chloride), copolymers of acrylamide and dimethyldiallyammonium chloride, and mixtures thereof.

[0243] The hair treatment compositions according to the present disclosure include about 0.1 to about 5% by weight of the one or more cationic conditioning polymers, based on the total weight of the hair treatment composition. The hair treatment compositions may include from about 0.1 to about 4% by weight, from about 0.1 to about 3% by weight, from about 0.1 to about 2% by weight, from about 0.1 to about 1.5% by weight, from about 0.2 to about 5% by weight, from about 0.2 to about 4% by weight, from about 0.2 to about 3% by weight, from about 0.2 to about 2% by weight, or from about 0.2 to about 1.5% by weight, of the one or more cationic polymers, based on the total weight of the hair treatment composition. hair. (k) Miscellaneous ingredients

[0244] The compositions optionally include or exclude (or are substantially free of) one or more miscellaneous ingredients. Miscellaneous ingredients are ingredients that are compatible with the compositions and do not disrupt or materially affect the fundamental and novel properties of the compositions. Non-limiting examples of ingredients include preservatives, fragrances, pH adjusters, salts, chelating agents, buffers, antioxidants, flavonoids, vitamins, botanical extracts, UV filtering agents, proteins, protein hydrolysates and / or isolates, fillers (e.g., organic and / or inorganic fillers such as talc, calcium carbonate, silica, etc.), composition colorants, etc. In various embodiments, the miscellaneous ingredients are selected from preservatives, fragrances, pH adjusters, salts, chelating agents, buffers, composition colorants, and mixtures thereof.In the context of this disclosure, a "composition colorant" is a compound that colors the composition but does not have an appreciable coloring effect on the hair. In other words, the composition colorant is included to impart coloring to the composition for aesthetic purposes but is not intended to impart coloring properties to the hair. Hair styling gels, for example, may come in a variety of different colors (e.g., light blue, light pink, etc.), but application of the styling gel to the hair does not visibly change the color of the hair.

[0245] The total amount of the one or more miscellaneous ingredients in the compositions, if present, will vary. However, in various embodiments, the compositions include about 0.1 to about 15% by weight of the one or more miscellaneous ingredients, based on the total weight of the compositions.In other embodiments, the compositions include about 0.1 to about 12 wt%, about 0.1 to about 10 wt%, about 0.1 to about 5 wt%, about 0.5 to about 15 wt%, about 0.5 to about 12 wt%, about 0.5 to about 10 wt%, about 0.5 to about 8 wt%, about 0.5 to about 5 wt%, about 1 to about 15 wt%, about 1 to about 12 wt%, about 1 to about 10 wt%, about 1 to about 8 wt%, about 1 to about 5 wt%, about 2 to about 15 wt%, about 2 to about 12 wt%, about 2 to about 10 wt%, about 2 to about 8 wt%, or about 2 to about 5 wt%, based on the total weight of the compositions. . Viscosity

[0246] Viscosity measurements of styling compositions can be performed using the Brookfield Viscometer [RV]. Styling compositions typically have a viscosity of approximately 500 cSt to approximately 5,000 cSt at room temperature (25°C) (50% torque, RH6 spindle, ViscoQC 100 rotational viscometer). However, in various embodiments, the compositions have a viscosity of about 500 cSt to about 4,000 cSt, about 500 cSt to about 3,000 cSt, about 500 cSt to about 2,500 cSt, about 500 cSt to about 2,000 cSt, about 1,000 cSt to about 5,000 cSt, about 1,000 cSt to about 4,000 cSt, about 1,000 cSt to about 3,000 cSt, about 1,000 cSt to about 2,500 cSt, or about 1,000 cSt to about 2,000 cSt at room temperature (25°C) (50% torque, RH6 spindle, ViscoQC 100 rotational viscometer). Exclusions

[0247] Any components positively presented in the present disclosure may be negatively excluded from the claims, for example, a claimed composition may be "free", "essentially free" (or "substantially free") of one or more components that are positively presented in the present disclosure.

[0248] In various embodiments, the hair treatment composition is free or essentially free of anionic surfactants.

[0249] In various embodiments, the hair treatment composition is free or essentially free of polymers, copolymers and crosslinked polymers formed with acrylate or methacrylate monomers, e.g., free or essentially free of polymers and crosslinked polymers of polyacrylic acid and polyacrylate.

[0250] In various embodiments, the hair treatment composition is free or essentially free of N-alkyl-2-mercaptoacetamide. In one embodiment, the hair treatment composition is free or essentially free of all mercaptoacetamides.

[0251] In various embodiments, the hair treatment composition is free or essentially free of ethylene carbonate. In other embodiments, the hair treatment composition is free or essentially free of linear carbonates, e.g., dimethyl carbonate, diethyl carbonate, etc. In various embodiments, the composition is free or essentially free of cyclic lactones (e.g., valerolactone, caprolactone, pantolactone, meadowlactone, etc.), free or essentially free of heterocyclic molecules (e.g., 2-oxazolidinone, 2-imidazolidinone, etc.), free or essentially free of sulfones (dimethylsulfone, 2,3,4,5-tetrahydrothiophene-1,1-dioxide), and / or free or essentially free of ureas (e.g., urea, ethylene urea, etc.). In still other embodiments, the hair treatment composition is free or essentially free of carbonates.

[0252] In various embodiments, the hair treatment compositions are free or essentially free of polysaccharides other than cyclodextrin and its derivatives.

[0253] In various embodiments, the hair treatment composition is free or essentially free of silicones other than the one or more amino-functionalized silicones. Similarly, in various embodiments, the composition is free or essentially free of silicones other than amodimethicone.

[0254] In other embodiments, the hair treatment composition is free or essentially free of monosaccharides and disaccharides. For example, the composition is free or essentially free of ribose, arabinose, glucose, fructose, xylose, sucrose and / or methyl glucoside.

[0255] In various embodiments, the hair treatment composition is free or essentially free of formaldehyde, formaldehyde derivatives, formalin, and compounds that produce formaldehyde upon heating.

[0256] In other embodiments, the hair treatment composition is free or essentially free of thioglycolic acid, thiolactic acid or their salts. Methods of implementation

[0257] In various embodiments, the hair treatment composition comprises or consists of:

[0258] (a) about 1 to about 5 wt%, preferably about 1.5 to about 4, plus preferably about 2 to about 4% by weight of citric acid, one of its salts or one of its mixtures;

[0259] (b) about 0.5 to about 5% by weight, preferably about 1 to about 4, plus preferably about 1 to about 3% by weight of a cyclodextrin or a derivative thereof, preferably a cyclodextrin or a derivative of α-cyclodextrin, β-cyclodextrin, γ-cyclodextrin, methyl derivatives of α-cyclodextrin, β-cyclodextrin, or γ-cyclodextrin, hydroxypropyl derivatives of α-cyclodextrin, β-cyclodextrin, or γ-cyclodextrin, or mixtures thereof, more preferably β-cyclodextrin;

[0260] wherein a combined total amount of the citric acid, its salt, its combination of (a) and the cyclodextrin or its derivative of (b) is about 2 to about 12% by weight, preferably about 2 to about 10% by weight, more preferably about 3 to about 8% by weight, and even more preferably about 3 to about 6% by weight;

[0261] wherein, preferably, citric acid, its salts, or their combination of (a) and the cyclodextrin or their derivatives of (b) have been individually combined with each other to form a composition wherein the cyclodextrin or its derivative of (b) is dissolved in citric acid, its salt, or their combination of (a) before being subsequently combined with additional components of the hair treatment composition;

[0262] (c) about 1 to about 10% by weight, preferably about 1 to about 8% by weight, more preferably about 2 to about 6% by weight of one or more cationic surfactants, preferably one or more monoalkyl trimonium halide compounds, more preferably one or more monoalkyl trimonium halide compounds selected from cetrimonium chloride, steartrimonium chloride, behentrimonium chloride, cocotrimonium chloride, cocamidopropyltrimonium chloride. Preferred are cetrimonium chloride, steartrimonium chloride and behentrimonium chloride, even more preferably, the one or more cationic surfactants including behentrimonium chloride, optionally in combination with cetrimonium chloride;

[0263] (d) about 0.1 to about 10 wt%, preferably about 0.5 to about 8, of more preferably about 1 to about 5 of one or more non-ionic surfactants or emulsifiers, wherein the one or more non-ionic surfactants or emulsifiers are selected from alkoxylated fatty alcohols, polyoxyethylene glycol fatty acid esters, ethoxylated mono- or diglycerides, sorbitan esters, ethoxylated sorbitan esters, fatty acid glycol esters, ethylene oxide, alkyl(ether)phosphates, alkylpolyglucosides, or a mixture thereof, more preferably one or more poly(ethylene oxide) alkyl or polyalkyl ethers containing at least one C8-C30 alkyl radical, with a number of ethylene oxide (EO) units ranging from 3 to 200, in particular, selected from laureth-3, laureth-4, laureth-7, laureth-23, ceteth-5, ceteth-7, ceteth-15, ceteth-23, oleth-5, oleth-7, oleth-10, oleth-12, oleth-20, oleth-50, phytosterol 30 EO, steareth-6, steareth-20, steareth-21,steareth-40, steareth-100, beheneth-100, ceteareth-7, ceteareth-10, ceteareth-15, ceteareth-25, pareth-3, pareth-23, C12-15 pareth-3, C12-13 pareth-4, C12-13 pareth-23, trideceth-3, trideceth-4, trideceth-5, trideceth-6, trideceth-7 and trideceth-10, or mixtures thereof; ,

[0264] (e) about 1 to about 15 wt%, preferably about 2 to about 12, plus preferably about 4 to about 10% by weight of one or more fatty alcohols, preferably one or more fatty alcohols chosen from fatty alcohols having from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, more preferably one or more fatty alcohols chosen from one or more solid fatty alcohols, for example, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol and mixtures thereof;

[0265] (f) about 2 to about 18% by weight, preferably about 2 to about 12% by weight, more preferably about 3 to about 8% by weight of one or more amino-functionalized silicones, preferably one or more amino-functionalized silicones are selected from amodimethicone, bis-hydroxy / methoxy amodimethicone, bis-cetearyl amodimethicone, bis(C13-C15 alkoxy) PG amodimethicone, aminopropyl phenyl trimethicone, aminopropyl dimethicone, bis-amino PEG / PPG-41 / 3 aminoethyl PG-propyl dimethicone, or a mixture thereof, more preferably wherein the one or more amino-functionalized silicones include amodimethicone or are amodimethicone;

[0266] (g) optionally, about 0.1 to about 14% by weight, preferably about 1 to about 12% by weight, more preferably about 2 to about 8% by weight of one or more water-soluble solvents, preferably wherein the one or more water-soluble solvents are selected from glycerin, C1-C6 monoalcohols, polyols (polyhydric alcohols), glycols, or a mixture thereof, more preferably wherein the one or more water-soluble solvents are selected from glycerin, glycols (e.g., ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, etc.), or a combination thereof;

[0267] (h) about 60 to about 85% by weight, preferably about 65 to about 80% by weight, more preferably about 70 to about 80% by weight of water;

[0268] (i) optionally, about 0.1 to about 12% by weight, preferably about 0.5 to about 10% by weight, more preferably about 1 to about 6% by weight of one or more non-silicone fatty compounds, preferably one or more non-silicone fatty compounds selected from oils, waxes, linear or branched alkanes, fatty esters, fatty acid esters, fatty alcohol esters, cetyl esters, triglycerides, or a mixture thereof, more preferably in which the one or more non-silicone fatty compounds are selected from an oil, cetyl esters, or a mixture thereof;

[0269] (j) optionally, about 0.01 to about 5 wt%, preferably about 0.1 to about 4% by weight, more preferably about 0.1 to about 3% by weight of one or more cationic conditioning polymers, preferably one or more cationic conditioning polymers selected from cationic guar gum derivatives, such as cationic guar or cationic guar derivatives (e.g., guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride), cationic proteins or their derivatives (hydroxypropyltrimonium hydrolyzed wheat proteins), polyquaterniums, or a combination thereof;

[0270] wherein all weight percentages are based on a total weight of the composition.

[0271] The pH of the composition may vary. However, in various embodiments, a pH of less than 7 (an acidic pH) is desirable. For example, the pH of the compositions is from about 3 to about 6.5, from about 3 to about 6, from about 3 to about 5.5, from about 3 to about 5, from about 3 to about 4.5, from about 3.5 to about 6.5, from about 3.5 to about 6, from about 3.5 to about 5.5, from about 3.5 to about 5, or from about 3.5 to about 4.5.

[0272] The total combined amount of citric acid, its salts, or the combination of (a) and cyclodextrin or derivatives of (b) will vary. However, in various embodiments, the total combined amount of citric acid, its salts, or the combination of (a) and cyclodextrin and derivatives of (b) is from about 1 to about 12% by weight, based on a total weight of the hair treatment composition.In other embodiments, the total combined amount of citric acid, its salts, or the combination of (a) and the cyclodextrin and derivatives of (b) is about 1 to about 10 wt%, about 1 to about 8 wt%, about 1 to about 6 wt%, about 1 to about 5 wt%, about 2 to about 12 wt%, about 2 to about 10 wt%, about 2 to about 8 wt%, about 2 to about 6 wt%, about 2 to about 5 wt%, about 3 to about 12 wt%, about 3 to about 10 wt%, about 3 to about 8 wt%, about 3 to about 6 wt%, or about 3 to about 5 wt% or about 1 wt%, 2 wt% weight, 3% by weight, 4% by weight, 5% by weight, 6% by weight, 7% by weight, 8% by weight of the hair treatment composition.

[0273] The weight ratio of citric acid, its salts, or the combination of (a) to cyclodextrin or derivatives of (b) will vary. However, in various embodiments, the citric acid, its salts, or the combination of (a) to cyclodextrin or derivatives of (b) are in a weight ratio of about 8:1 to about 1:2((a):(b)). In additional embodiments, the citric acid, its salts, or a combination of (a) to cyclodextrin or derivatives of (b) are in a weight ratio of about 6:1 to about 1:2, about 5:2 to about 1:2, about 4:1 to about 1:2, about 3:1 to about 1:2; from about 2:1 to about 1:2, from about 8:1 to about 1:1, from about 6:1 to about 1:1, from about 5:1 to about 1:1, from about 4:1 to about 1:1, from about 3:1 to about 1:1, from about 2:1 to about 1:1, from about 1.2:1, about 1.3:1, about 1.4:1, about 1.5:1, about 1.6:1, or about 1.8:1 ((a):(b)).

[0274] The molar ratio between citric acid, its salts, or the combination of (a) and cyclodextrin or derivatives of (b) will vary. However, in various embodiments, citric acid, its salts, or the combination of (a) and cyclodextrin or derivatives of (b) are in a molar ratio of about 20:1 to about 3:1. In additional embodiments, citric acid, its salts, or a combination of (a) and cyclodextrin or derivatives of (b) are in a molar ratio of about 18:1 to about 3:1, from about 15:1 to about 3:1, from about 20:1 to about 5:1, from about 18:1 to about 5:1, from about 15:1 to about 5:1, from about 20:1 to about 8:1, from about 18:1 to about 8:1, from about 15:1 to about 8:1, from about 20:1 to about 10:1, from about 18:1 to about 10:1, from about 15:1 to about 10:1, from about 14:1 to about 13:1, or from about 12:1 to about 11:1.

[0275] In various embodiments, citric acid, its salts, or the combination of (a) and the cyclodextrin of (b) are combined with each other before being added into the hair treatment compositions of the present disclosure. For example, the cyclodextrin is preferentially solubilized in citric acid to form a solubilized combination of citric acid and cyclodextrin. The combination may be heated to facilitate or accelerate dissolution of the cyclodextrin. The solubility of cyclodextrin in water is not always ideal. Therefore, combining the cyclodextrin with citric acid and dissolving the cyclodextrin in the citric acid before adding the combination with other components of the hair treatment composition may be beneficial. Methods

[0276] As explained throughout the present disclosure, the hair treatment compositions are particularly useful in methods of treating hair, preferably human hair, particularly human head hair. Treatment with the compositions improves fiber alignment, reduces frizz, and imparts a smooth texture to the hair. The methods typically comprise applying a hair treatment composition of the present disclosure to the hair. The hair is preferably wet or damp, but the composition can also be applied to dry hair. Application of the compositions to the hair will moisten the hair because the compositions are aqueous (containing a large portion of water).

[0277] The hair treatment composition may be left on the hair for a period of time before being rinsed from the hair. In various embodiments, the hair treatment composition is left on the hair for 1 minute to about 60 minutes before being rinsed from the hair. In other embodiments, the hair treatment composition is left on the hair for about 1 minute to about 45 minutes, about 1 minute to about 30 minutes, about 1 minute to about 15 minutes, about 5 minutes to about 60 minutes, about 5 minutes to about 45 minutes, about 5 minutes to about 30 minutes, about 5 minutes to about 15 minutes, about 5 minutes, about 10 minutes, about 15 minutes, about 20 minutes, about 25 minutes, about 30 minutes, about 40 minutes, about 45 minutes, or about 60 minutes, before being rinsed from the hair. In these lines, the hair treatment composition is considered as a “rinse-off” or “rinse-off” product.

[0278] After rinsing the hair, the hair may be dried, for example with a hair dryer. Once the hair is dry, the hair may be treated with a thermal treatment (with heat). For example, the hair may be treated with a hot iron, in particular, a flat iron. Generally, the hot iron is passed over the hair at least once, at least twice, at least three times, or more. The hot iron is preferably at a temperature of about 150°C to about 300°C, preferably 150°C to about 250°C, more preferably about 180°C to about 230°C.

[0279] Treated hair exhibits improved hair fiber alignment, reduced frizz, and smoothness. Treated hair is also soft, shiny, conditioned, and healthy-looking.

[0280] An implementation of the present disclosure is provided by means of the following examples. These examples serve to illustrate the technology without being limiting in nature. Example 1

[0281] [Table 1]

[0282] (Inventive Composition) A (a) CITRIC ACID 2.5 (b) CYCLODEXTRIN 1.5 Total (a)+(b) 4 Ratio of (a):(b) 1.7 (c) BEHEN-TRIMONIUM CHLORIDE AND CETRIMONIUM CHLORIDE 2.5 (d) TRIDECETH-5, TRIDECETH-10, TRIDECETH-6, GLYCERYL LINOLEATE, GLYCERYL OLEATE, GLYCERYL LINOLEATE AND / OR SAFFLOWER GLUCOSIDE 1,4 (e) CETEARYL ALCOHOL 6 (f) AMODIMETHICONE 4.8 (g) GLYCERIN, BUTYLENE GLYCOL, 3,4 CAPRYLYL GLYCOL AND / OR ISOPROPYL ALCOHOL (i) CETYL ESTERS 1,5 HE-LIANTHUS ANNUUS (SUNFLOWER) SEED OIL 0.01 (J) HYDROXYPROPYL- TRIMONIUM HYDROLYZED WHEAT PROTEIN 0.1 (k) MISCELLANEOUS* (Fillers, pH adjusters, preservatives, botanical extracts, fragrances, buffers, stabilizers, vitamins and / or emollients, etc.) <5 (h) WATER QS PH 3-4

[0283] * e.g., Styrax benzoin gum, boron nitride, xylose, acetic acid, Benzoic Acid, Iris Florentina Root Extract, Phenoxyethanol Fragrance, Sodium Citrate, BHT, Sodium Hydroxide, Tocopherol, etc. Example 2

[0284] [Table 2]

[0285] (Comparative Compositions) BC (c) BEHEN-TRIMONIUM CHLORIDE AND CETRIMONIUM CHLORIDE 3 (a) CITRIC ACID 2.5 (d) TRIDECETH-6 0.4 (b) CYCLODEXTRIN 1.8 (e) CETEARYL ALCOHOL 7 Total (a)+(b) 4.3 (f) AMODIMETHICONE 4.8 weight ratio (a):(b) 1.6:1 (g) GLYCERIN, BUTYLENE GLYCOL, CAPRYLYL GLYCOL AND / OR ISOPROPYL ALCOHOL 0.7 (c) GLYCERIN 1 (f) CETYL ESTERS AND 2 (e) MISCELLANEOUS* (Fillers, pH adjusters, preservatives, botanical extracts, fragrances, buffers, stabilizers, vitamins and / or emollients, etc.) <5 OIL OF HEIANTHUS ANNUUS (SUNFLOWER) SEEDS AND SCLEROCARYA BIRREA SEED OIL 0.01 (d) WATER QS (g) MISCELLANEOUS* <5 PH 3-4 (h) WATER QS

[0286] * Fillers, pH adjusters, preservatives, botanical extracts, perfumes, buffers, stabilizers, vitamins and / or emollients, etc. Example 3 (Comparative test)

[0287] To determine how treatment with the inventive composition of Example 1 (inventive composition A) and with the comparative compositions of Example 2 (comparative compositions B and C) influences the hair, tests were carried out on commercially available hair strands (bleached hair CP3, 2 gm, 15 cm). All hair strands were first cleansed with a standard shampoo before treatment with one of the compositions AC. Approximately 0.4 grams of each composition per gram of hair was applied to the strands. of cleansed hair and distributed evenly throughout the hair. After distribution throughout the hair, the compositions were left on the hair for 10 minutes and then thoroughly rinsed from the hair. The hair strands were then blow-dried and treated with a flat iron (180 °C). The flat iron was passed over the hair strands three times for 10 seconds for each pass (the flat iron was passed along the distance of the hair strands (15 cm) over a period of 10 seconds per pass). The strands were evaluated and images of the hair strands are provided in [Fig. 1].

[0288] The hair strands were then subjected to humidity treatment. The hair strands were placed in a humidity chamber having a temperature of 25°C and 80% RH for 1 hour. After 1 hour in the humidity chamber, the strands were evaluated again. Images of the hair strands after humidity treatment are shown in [Fig.2].

[0289] After the humidity treatment, the strands were again cleaned with the standard shampoo, dried with a hairdryer and treated with a flat iron (180°C) in the same manner as described above. The strands were evaluated and snapshots of the strands are provided in [Fig. 3]. The hair strands were again subjected to the humidity treatment. The hair strands were placed in the same humidity chamber having a temperature of 25°C and 80% RH for 1 hour. After 1 hour in the humidity chamber, the strands were again evaluated. Snapshots of the strands after treatment in the humidity chamber are shown in [Fig. 4].

[0290] Hair strands treated with Inventive Composition A consistently showed better fiber alignments, less frizz, more smoothness, and less roughness at the tips of the hair fibers, compared to placebo and hair strands treated with Comparative Compositions B and C.

[0291] The foregoing description illustrates and describes the disclosure. Furthermore, the disclosure shows and describes only the preferred embodiments. However, as mentioned above, it is to be understood that it is capable of use in various other combinations, modifications, and environments and is capable of changes or modifications within the scope of the inventive concepts as expressed herein, consistent with the above teachings and / or the skill or knowledge of the relevant art. The embodiments described herein are further intended to explain the best modes known to the applicant and to enable others skilled in the art to use the disclosure in such or other embodiments, and with the various modifications required by the particular applications or uses thereof.Accordingly, the description is not intended to limit the invention to the form disclosed herein. The claims . annexed are also intended to be interpreted to include other embodiments.

[0292] As used herein, the terms "comprising," "having," and "including" are used in their broad and non-limiting sense.

[0293] The terms "a," "an," "the," and "the" are understood to encompass both the plural and the singular. Thus, the expression "a mixture of" also relates to "mixtures of." Throughout the disclosure, the expression "their mixture" is used, after a list of elements as shown in the following example where the letters A through F represent the elements: "one or more elements selected from the group consisting of A, B, C, D, E, F, and their mixture." The expression "their mixture" does not require that the mixture include all of A, B, C, D, E, and F (although all of A, B, C, D, E, and F may be included). Rather, it indicates that a mixture of two or more of A, B, C, D, E, and F may be included. In other words, it is equivalent to the formulation "one or more elements selected from the group consisting of A, B, C, D, E, F, and a mixture of two or more of A, B, C, D, E and F".

[0294] Similarly, the expression "their salt" also relates to "their salts". Thus, when the disclosure refers to "an element selected from the group consisting of A, B, C, D, E, F, their salt, and a mixture thereof", it indicates that one or more of A, B, C, D and F may be included, one or more of a salt of A, a salt of B, a salt of C, a salt of D, a salt of E and a salt of F may be included, or a mixture of any two of A, B, C, D, E, F, a salt of A, a salt of B, a salt of C, a salt of D, a salt of E and a salt of F may be included.

[0295] Salts referred to throughout the disclosure may include salts having a counterion such as an alkali metal, an alkaline earth metal, or an ammonium counterion. This list of counterions, however, is not limiting. Suitable counterions for the components described herein are known in the art.

[0296] The expression “one or more” means “at least one” and therefore includes individual components as well as mixtures / combinations.

[0297] The term "plurality" means "more than one" or "two or more."

[0298] Except in working examples, or if otherwise indicated, all numbers expressing amounts of ingredients and / or reaction conditions may be modified in all cases by the term "about", meaning to within + / - 5% of the number indicated.

[0299] All percentages, parts and ratios herein are based on the total weight of the compositions of the present invention, unless otherwise indicated.

[0300] Some of the various categories of components identified may overlap. In such cases where an overlap may exist and the composition includes both components (or the composition includes more than two overlapping components), an overlapping compound does not represent more than one component. For example, some compounds may be considered both a nonionic surfactant or emulsifier and a fat component. If a particular composition includes both a nonionic surfactant or emulsifier and a fat component, a single compound will serve only as a nonionic surfactant or emulsifier or only as a fat component (the single compound does not serve as both a nonionic surfactant or emulsifier and a fat component).

[0301] A "rinse-out" product refers to a composition that is rinsed and / or washed from the hair with water after or during application of the composition to the hair, and before drying and / or styling the hair. At least a portion of the composition is removed from the hair during rinsing and / or washing.

[0302] A "leave-in" product refers to a composition that is not rinsed and / or washed out of the hair after or during application of the composition to the hair. The composition remains on the hair during drying and / or throughout styling.

[0303] As used herein, all ranges provided are intended to include each specific range within the given ranges, as well as a combination of intermediate sub-ranges. Thus, a range of 1 to 5 specifically includes 1, 2, 3, 4, and 5, as well as sub-ranges such as 2 to 5, 3 to 5, 2 to 3, 2 to 4, 1 to 4, etc. All ranges and values ​​disclosed herein are inclusive and combinable. For example, any value or point described herein that falls within a range described herein may serve as a minimum or maximum value to derive a sub-range, etc.

[0304] The composition of the present case optionally includes one or more surfactants and / or emulsifiers, e.g., one or more nonionic, anionic, cationic, and / or amphoteric / zwitterionic surfactants. The terms "surfactants" and "emulsifiers" include salts of the surfactants and emulsifiers even if not explicitly stated. In other words, whenever the disclosure refers to a surfactant or emulsifier, it is intended that salts also be encompassed to the extent such salts exist, even though the specification may not specifically refer to a salt (or may not refer to a salt in all instances throughout the disclosure), e.g., by using language such as "their salt" or "their salts." Sodium and potassium are common cations that form salts with surfactants and emulsifiers.However, additional cations such as ammonium ions, or alkanolammonium ions such as monoethanolammonium or triethanolammonium ions, can also form surfactant salts.

[0305] The term "substantially free" or "essentially free" as used herein means that less than about 2% by weight of a specific material is added to a composition, based on the total weight of the compositions. However, the compositions may include less than about 1% by weight, less than about 0.5% by weight, less than about 0.1% by weight, or none of the specified material.

[0306] Any components positively presented in the present disclosure may be negatively excluded from the claims, for example, a claimed composition may be "free", "essentially free" (or "substantially free") of one or more components that are positively presented in the present disclosure.< / n>

Claims

Claims

1. A hair treatment composition comprising: (a) about 1 to about 8% by weight of citric acid, a salt thereof, or a mixture thereof; (b) about 0.5 to about 5% by weight of a cyclodextrin or a derivative thereof; wherein a combined total amount of citric acid of (a) and cyclodextrin of (b) is about 2 to about 12% by weight; (c) about 1 to about 10% by weight of one or more cationic surfactants; (d) optionally, about 0.1 to about 5% by weight of one or more nonionic surfactants or emulsifiers; (e) about 1 to about 15% by weight of one or more fatty alcohols; (f) about 2 to about 18% by weight of one or more amino-functionalized silicones; (g) optionally, one or more water-soluble solvents; (h) about 60 to about 85% by weight of water; wherein all weight percentages are based on a total weight of the composition.

2. A composition according to claim 1, having a pH of about 3 to about 6.

3. The composition of claim 1, wherein (a) and (b) are in a weight ratio of about 4:1 to about 1:1(a):(b)) and / or a molar ratio of about 20:1 to about 5:

1.

4. The composition of claim 1, wherein the citric acid of (a) and the cyclodextrin of (b) of the composition are individually combined with each other to form a mixture in which the cyclodextrin is dissolved in the citric acid; and subsequently, the mixture is combined with additional components of the hair treatment composition to form the hair treatment composition.

5. A composition according to claim 1, wherein the cyclodextrin or its derivatives are selected from α-cyclodextrin, β-cyclodextrin, γ-cyclodextrin, methyl-α-cyclodextrin, methyl-β-cyclodextrin, methyl-γ-cyclodextrin, or a mixture thereof.

6. Composition according to claim 1, in which the one or more fatty alcohols are chosen from linear C14-22 alcohols.

7. The composition of claim 1, comprising about 1 to about 20% by weight of the one or more water-soluble solvents, preferably wherein the one or more water-soluble solvents are selected from glycerin, C1-C6 monohydric alcohols, polyols (polyhydric alcohols), glycols, or a mixture thereof; and (i) about 1 to about 10% by weight of one or more non-silicone fatty compounds, preferably wherein the one or more non-silicone fatty compounds are selected from oils, waxes, linear or branched alkanes, fatty esters, fatty acid esters, fatty alcohol esters, cetyl esters, triglycerides, or a mixture thereof.

8. A hair treatment composition according to claim 1 comprising: (a) about 1 to about 8% by weight of citric acid, a salt thereof, or a combination thereof; (b) about 0.5 to about 5% by weight of a cyclodextrin or a derivative thereof; wherein a combined total amount of the citric acid of (a) and the cyclodextrin of (b) is about 2 to about 10% by weight; and the citric acid, its salt, or the combination thereof of (a) and the cyclodextrin or its derivatives of (b) have been individually combined with each other to form a composition wherein the cyclodextrin or its derivative of (b) is dissolved in the citric acid, its salt, or the combination thereof of (a) before being subsequently combined with additional components of the hair treatment composition; (c) from about 1 to about 10% by weight of one or more cationic surfactants;(d) optionally, about 0.1 to about 5% by weight of one or more nonionic surfactants or emulsifiers; (e) about 1 to about 10% by weight of one or more fatty alcohols; (f) about 2 to about 18% by weight of amodimethicone; (g) about 1 to about 15% by weight of one or more water-soluble solvents selected from glycerin, C1-C6 monohydric alcohols, polyols (polyhydric alcohols), glycols, and mixtures thereof; (h) about 60 to about 85% by weight of water; (i) about 1 to about 10% by weight of one or more non-silicone fatty compounds; (j) optionally, from about 0.01 to about 5% by weight of one or more cationic conditioning polymers; and (k) optionally, from about 0.1 to about 10% by weight of one or more miscellaneous ingredients; wherein all weight percentages are based on a total weight of the composition.

9. A method of treating hair comprising applying to the hair the composition of claim 1.

10. The method of claim 9, further comprising rinsing the composition from the hair, drying the hair, and treating the hair with a flat iron at a temperature of about 150°C to about 280°C.