Cosmetic active ingredient based on flaxseed mucilage and birch sap.

Abstract

The invention relates to a cosmetic active ingredient comprising an extract of flaxseed mucilage and birch sap, characterized in that it comprises a carbohydrate portion. The invention also relates to cosmetic compositions comprising such a cosmetic active ingredient, as well as the process for obtaining the cosmetic active ingredient.

Description

Title of the invention: Cosmetic active ingredient based on flaxseed mucilage and birch sap. FIELD OF INVENTION

[0001] The technical field of the present invention is that of natural cosmetic active ingredients. The invention relates more particularly to a cosmetic active ingredient comprising an extract of flaxseed mucilage and birch sap, its method of obtaining and its cosmetic uses. STATE OF THE ART

[0002] Flax (Linum usitatissimum) is a herbaceous plant with a slender, leafy stem, producing pale blue flowers. Its teardrop-shaped seeds, brown or yellowish in color, can be dried and pressed to produce linseed oil. Flax is cultivated in most temperate regions, both for its seeds and for the manufacture of textiles.

[0003] Flax seeds are rich in protein, minerals, vitamins, and oils, making them an excellent ally for skin and hair. Flax is used in skin products for its protective and soothing properties, and in hair products because it adds shine to hair. Flax seeds are also rich in polysaccharides, natural carbohydrates known for their ability to retain water in the skin to hydrate and smooth it.

[0004] Flax seeds can be boiled to produce mucilage. The outer shell of the seeds swells when immersed in an aqueous solution, producing a gel-like texture, which is in fact a mucilage with a high sugar content.

[0005] During skin aging, the skin naturally deteriorates and reveals sagging skin, drooping of the skin on the cheeks and neck, thinner, drier and more sensitive skin, as well as more pronounced wrinkles.

[0006] When skin exhibits these characteristics related to aging, it is then referred to as mature skin. Mature skin has its own specific characteristics. Indeed, with age and exposure to ultraviolet (UV) radiation, the skin is damaged, spots appear, and the skin layers become disorganized.

[0007] Furthermore, in mature skin, cell renewal and microcirculation slow down. The complexion becomes dull, loses its evenness, and the skin is more prone to redness. However, a radiant complexion reflects the health of the skin; a dull complexion gives a tired appearance and can accentuate the signs of aging.

[0008] Mature skin needs good hydration to restructure and redensify the skin and improve its radiance. However, being thinner and more sensitive, it requires a gentle routine.

[0009] There is therefore a constant need to find new natural cosmetic active ingredients with anti-aging and moisturizing effects on the skin, and more particularly on mature skin. Description of the invention

[0010] The invention relates to a cosmetic active ingredient comprising a flaxseed mucilage extract and birch sap. The cosmetic active ingredient comprises carbohydrates. The cosmetic active ingredient includes a carbohydrate component.

[0011] The inventors have made a surprising discovery that a cosmetic active ingredient comprising flaxseed mucilage extract and birch sap can produce an anti-aging and moisturizing effect on skin. In particular, the cosmetic active ingredient according to the invention can redensify, restructure, and / or revitalize the skin.

[0012] According to one embodiment of the invention, the carbohydrate portion represents between 2% and 5% by mass of the total mass of the cosmetic active ingredient.

[0013] According to another embodiment of the invention, the carbohydrate portion comprises: • between 29% and 35% by mass of xylose, • between 14% and 17% by mass of rhamnose, • between 13% and 14% by mass of galacturonic acid, • between 11% and 14% by mass of arabinose, • between 8% and 10% by mass of galactose, and • between 3% and 4% by mass of fucose.

[0014] According to yet another embodiment of the invention, the cosmetic active ingredient is obtained by ultrasound-assisted extraction of unground flax seeds using birch sap as the extraction solvent.

[0015] According to yet another embodiment of the invention, the cosmetic active ingredient has a viscosity between 100 centipoise and 250 centipoise.

[0016] According to yet another embodiment of the invention, the cosmetic active ingredient comprises a preservative agent.

[0017] The invention also relates to a cosmetic composition comprising at least 0.1% by mass of a cosmetic active ingredient according to the invention.

[0018] Advantageously, the cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises between 3% and 5% by mass of the cosmetic active ingredient according to the invention. This concentration of cosmetic active ingredient gives the cosmetic composition an optimal sensory effect upon topical application.

[0019] According to one embodiment of the composition according to the invention, the composition is in the form of a gel, emulsion, cream, milk, lotion, serum, essence, oil, wax, stick, powder or encapsulated.

[0020] The invention also relates to a cosmetic use of an active ingredient according to the invention or of a composition according to the invention, for an anti-aging effect.

[0021] The invention also relates to a cosmetic use of an active ingredient according to the invention or of a composition according to the invention, for a moisturizing effect on the skin.

[0022] The invention also relates to a cosmetic use of an active ingredient according to the invention or of a composition according to the invention, to stimulate the secretion of type I collagen and / or type III collagen and / or elastin and / or hyaluronic acid and / or decorin by skin cells.

[0023] The invention also relates to a cosmetic use of an active ingredient according to the invention or of a composition according to the invention, to increase the radiance of the skin.

[0024] The invention also relates to a process for obtaining a cosmetic active ingredient according to the invention comprising the following steps: a. supply of unground flax seeds and an extraction solvent represented by birch sap; b. bringing flax seeds into contact with birch sap at a temperature between 50 °C and 90 °C for a period of between 20 min and 40 min in order to obtain a heated mixture; c. application of ultrasound to the heated mixture for a period of between 10 min and 60 min in order to obtain a suspension; d. solid-liquid separation of said suspension so as to obtain, on the one hand, a liquid extract and, on the other hand, a solid residue; and e. recovery of the cosmetic active ingredient according to the invention represented by the liquid extract obtained at the end of step d).

[0025] According to one embodiment of the process according to the invention, steps b) and c) are carried out under agitation.

[0026] According to another embodiment of the process according to the invention, the ultrasound has a frequency between 20 kHz and 30 kHz.

[0027] A first advantage of the present invention lies in the fact that the cosmetic active ingredient and the cosmetic composition have an anti-aging effect.

[0028] Another advantage of the present invention lies in the fact that the cosmetic active ingredient and the cosmetic composition have a moisturizing effect.

[0029] Another advantage of the present invention lies in the fact that the cosmetic active ingredient and the cosmetic composition make it possible to stimulate the secretion of type I collagen and / or type III collagen and / or elastin and / or hyaluronic acid and / or decorin by skin cells.

[0030] Another further advantage of the present invention lies in the fact that the cosmetic extract contains only natural ingredients.

[0031] Other features, advantages and details of the invention will be better understood from reading the supplementary description that follows and the examples which are purely illustrative and in no way limiting of the scope of the invention.

[0032] DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF EMBODIMENT METHODS OF THE INVENTION

[0033] In the context of the present invention, "cosmetic active ingredient" means a set of molecules exhibiting non-therapeutic cosmetic efficacy on healthy skin, in particular an anti-aging and / or moisturizing effect.

[0034] In the context of the present invention, "extract" means a set of molecules extracted from a raw material, whether native or resulting from processing. Thus, "flaxseed mucilage extract" means a set of several molecules obtained by acting on the plant raw material, in this case flaxseed of the genus Linum and in particular of the species Linum u sitatissimum.

[0035] In the context of the present invention, "mucilage" refers to the outer layer of the flaxseed seed coat. Thus, when flaxseeds are brought into contact with an aqueous solution, they absorb the water, the mucilage trapped in the apoplastic space expands, causing the primary cell wall to rupture and allowing its release into the aqueous environment.

[0036] The mucilage of flaxseed represents 3 to 9% of the total mass of the seed. It is located in the seed coat and is composed of a fraction consisting of neutral polysaccharides (75% of total sugars) and a fraction consisting of acidic polysaccharides (25% of total sugars).

[0037] The neutral sugar fraction consists mainly of xylose (62.8%), arabinose (16.2%), glucose (13.6%) and galactose (7.4%).

[0038] The acid sugar fraction consists mainly of L-rhamnose (54.5%), α-galacturonic acid (23.4%), L-fucose (10%) and to a lesser extent of galactose, xylose (6%), arabinose (2%) and glucose (4.5%).

[0039] In the context of the present invention, the term "carbohydrate component" refers to all the carbohydrates, sugars, or polysaccharides present in a solution. Thus, the carbohydrate component of the cosmetic active ingredient according to the invention represents all the carbohydrates, sugars, or polysaccharides in the cosmetic active ingredient. Furthermore, the carbohydrate component of the cosmetic active ingredient according to the invention comprises carbohydrates.

[0040] In the context of the present invention, "mature skin" means a state of the skin from a certain stage of skin aging onwards. This natural process concerns All skin types (oily, dry). Mature skin is characterized by sagging and loss of volume in various areas of the face (corners of the lips, eyes) or décolletage. On the surface, this manifests as wrinkles, but also as skin that appears thinner, more fragile, drier, and less toned.

[0041] In the context of the present invention, "strengthening the skin barrier function" means strengthening the cohesion of the upper layers of the epidermis, in particular by stimulating the formation of tight junctions or by reducing the desquamation of the stratum corneum.

[0042] The present invention therefore relates to a cosmetic active ingredient comprising an extract of flaxseed mucilage and birch sap. The cosmetic active ingredient according to the invention includes, in particular, carbohydrates as active molecules.

[0043] The cosmetic active ingredient according to the invention comprises a total sugar content of between 2% and 5% of the total mass of the active ingredient. Furthermore, the cosmetic active ingredient comprises a carbohydrate portion representing between 2% and 5% by mass of its total mass.

[0044] The remainder of the composition consists of water and raw materials derived from birch sap and flaxseed mucilage. Furthermore, the active ingredient according to the invention also comprises antioxidants, vitamins, minerals, and amino acids.

[0045] The particular combination of flaxseed mucilage extract and birch sap gives the cosmetic active ingredient according to the invention its properties as described in the following description.

[0046] One of the raw materials from which the cosmetic active ingredient can be produced can be the seeds of plants of the Linum genus, in particular chosen from the following species: Linum usitatissimum, Linum perenne, Linum grandiflorum, Linum lewisii, Linum bienne, Linum narbonense and Linum arboreum. Linum usitatissimum is particularly preferred.

[0047] Another of the raw materials used to create the cosmetic active ingredient according to the invention is the sap of plants of the genus Betula, in particular selected from the following species: Betula pendula, Betula pubescens, Betula alba, Betula lenta, Betula nigra, Betula papyrifera, Betula neoborealis, Betula occidentalis, Betula cordifolia and Betula alleghaniensis. Betula alba is particularly preferred.

[0048] Preferably, the raw materials at the basis of the invention come from biological, ecological and local sources.

[0049] The extract according to the invention exhibits cosmetic effects, particularly when used topically. These effects are linked to a synergistic effect of the molecules present in the extract.

[0050] The inventors have identified a major polysaccharide present in its carbohydrate portion comprising essentially xylose and rhamnose units.

[0051] Preferably, the carbohydrate portion of the cosmetic active ingredient according to the invention comprises: • between 29% and 35% by mass of xylose, and • between 14% and 17% by mass of rhamnose.

[0052] The high xylose and rhamnose content of the carbohydrate part and therefore of the cosmetic active ingredient according to the invention also gives it moisturizing and anti-aging properties.

[0053] Xylose and rhamnose have humectant properties in that they attract and retain moisture in the skin. This helps to keep the skin hydrated, plump and supple, reducing the appearance of dryness and fine lines.

[0054] Xylose helps prevent the degradation of collagen and elastin, which are essential proteins for maintaining skin firmness and elasticity. Rhamnose, meanwhile, has antioxidant properties that protect the skin from damage caused by free radicals, a major factor in premature aging.

[0055] Xylose and rhamnose contribute to strengthening the skin's barrier function, which prevents moisture loss and protects the skin from environmental aggressions.

[0056] According to one embodiment of the invention, the carbohydrate portion of the cosmetic active ingredient comprises: • between 29% and 35% by mass of xylose, • between 14% and 17% by mass of rhamnose, • between 13% and 14% by mass of galacturonic acid, • between 11% and 14% by mass of arabinose, • between 8% and 10% by mass of galactose, and • between 3% and 4% by mass of fucose.

[0057] Galacturonic acid gives the active ingredient according to the invention moisturizing and soothing properties for the skin. Galacturonic acid helps retain moisture and improve skin texture.

[0058] Arabinose gives the active ingredient according to the invention moisturizing properties by forming a protective barrier.

[0059] Galactose gives the active ingredient according to the invention skin-softening properties and helps to maintain skin elasticity.

[0060] Fucose is a rare sugar found in certain marine algae and other plant sources. Furthermore, it gives the active ingredient according to the invention soothing and moisturizing properties. It can help calm the skin and reduce redness and irritation.

[0061] According to one aspect of the invention, the cosmetic active ingredient has a viscosity between 100 centipoise and 250 centipoise. The particular viscosity of the active ingredient according to The invention gives it a particular feel and facilitates the formulation of cosmetic compositions containing it. Furthermore, the active ingredient according to the invention gives a cosmetic composition containing it its pleasant feel on the skin.

[0062] The cosmetic active ingredient according to the invention can be obtained by any suitable process known to those skilled in the art. The extract according to the invention is preferably obtained by ultrasound-assisted extraction of mucilage from unground flax seeds using birch sap as the extraction solvent.

[0063] The process for obtaining the active ingredient according to the invention is for example as follows: a. supply of unground flax seeds and an extraction solvent represented by birch sap; b. bringing flax seeds into contact with birch sap at a temperature between 50 °C and 90 °C for a period of between 20 min and 40 min in order to obtain a heated mixture; c. application of ultrasound to the heated mixture for a period of between 10 min and 60 min in order to obtain a suspension; d. solid-liquid separation of said suspension so as to obtain, on the one hand, a liquid extract and, on the other hand, a solid residue; and e. recovery of the cosmetic active ingredient according to the invention represented by the liquid extract obtained at the end of step d).

[0064] The process optionally includes a step f) of adding a preservative agent to the cosmetic active obtained in step e).

[0065] The contacting of flax seeds with birch sap is carried out for example according to a mass ratio of flax seed to birch sap equal to 0.1.

[0066] Agitation and heating of flax seeds placed in contact with birch sap promotes the release into the birch sap of molecules of interest from the mucilage of flax seeds.

[0067] The ultrasound applied to the heated mixture preferably has a frequency between 20 kHz and 30 kHz. This step is, for example, carried out in an ultrasonic bath to avoid contamination of the suspension by any particles from an ultrasonic probe.

[0068] The solid-liquid separation of the suspension is preferably achieved by hot filtration through a cotton bag to remove seeds and facilitate filtration before cooling. For example, the solid-liquid separation is carried out directly at the outlet of the ultrasonic bath.

[0069] This method of obtaining it is particularly preferred, because it allows 0.6 kg of cosmetic active ingredient according to the invention to be obtained from 0.1 kg of flax seeds and 1.0 kg of birch sap.

[0070] The cosmetic active ingredient according to the invention comprises the molecules of interest extracted from the mucilage of flax seeds as well as from birch sap.

[0071] The active ingredient according to the invention can optionally be used as such, but is preferably integrated into a cosmetic composition, that is to say a composition comprising at least the cosmetic active ingredient and at least one excipient, capable of being applied to the skin.

[0072] The liquid form of the active ingredient according to the invention allows it to be easily incorporated into a cosmetic composition. The viscous nature of the active ingredient makes cosmetic compositions easier to spread on the skin, reduces stickiness, and gives the cosmetic composition containing it a stringy consistency.

[0073] The cosmetic active ingredient according to the invention is water-soluble.

[0074] Thus the invention also relates to a cosmetic composition comprising at least 0.1% by mass of a cosmetic active ingredient according to the invention.

[0075] The cosmetic composition according to the invention is preferably in the form of a gel, emulsion, cream, milk, lotion, serum, essence, oil, wax, stick, powder or encapsulated.

[0076] The composition according to the invention may comprise one or more cosmetically acceptable excipients. Optionally, said composition may also contain one or more other cosmetic active ingredients.

[0077] The composition according to the invention exhibits cosmetic effects when used topically. These effects are linked to a synergistic effect of the molecules of the cosmetic active ingredient present in the composition and any other cosmetic active ingredients that may be present in the composition.

[0078] The cosmetic composition and the cosmetic active ingredient according to the invention produce the following effects: • strengthening of the skin's barrier function; • reduction of the color and quantity of spots on the skin; • prevention of skin aging; • improved dermal regeneration; • promoting the organization of the extracellular matrix; • restructuring of the dermis; • regulation of the architecture of the extracellular matrix. • Intense skin revitalization, • regeneration, lifting of features and reshaping of contours; • skin firming; • combats loss of volume and sagging skin by redensifying and giving volume to the skin; • visible reduction of existing spots and prevention of the appearance of new spots; • Evens skin tone and improves radiance; and • helps to preserve the harmonious volumes of the face.

[0079] Thus, the cosmetic extract according to the invention can be used in cosmetics for its anti-aging effect.

[0080] The cosmetic extract according to the invention can also be used in cosmetics for its moisturizing effect.

[0081] The cosmetic extract according to the invention can be used in cosmetics to regenerate the dermis and / or redensify the skin and / or promote the organization of the extracellular matrix and / or strengthen the skin's barrier function.

[0082] The cosmetic extract according to the invention can be used in cosmetics to stimulate the secretion of type I collagen and / or type III collagen and / or elastin and / or hyaluronic acid and / or decorin by skin cells.

[0083] Similarly, the cosmetic composition according to the invention can be used in cosmetics for its anti-aging effect.

[0084] The cosmetic composition according to the invention can also be used in cosmetics for its moisturizing effect.

[0085] The cosmetic composition according to the invention can be used in cosmetics to regenerate the dermis and / or redensify the skin and / or promote the organization of the extracellular matrix and / or strengthen the skin's barrier function.

[0086] The cosmetic composition according to the invention can be used in cosmetics to stimulate the secretion of type I collagen and / or type III collagen and / or elastin and / or hyaluronic acid and / or decorin by skin cells.

[0087] Type I collagen is naturally present in the skin and contributes to its elasticity and tensile strength. With age, the production of type I collagen decreases, which can lead to wrinkles and sagging skin. Increasing the production of type I collagen in the skin helps slow down skin aging.

[0088] Type III collagen plays an essential role in maintaining the structure, strength, and elasticity of the skin. With age, the production of type III collagen decreases, which can contribute to signs of skin aging such as wrinkles and loss of firmness. Increasing the production of type III collagen in the skin helps to slow down skin aging.

[0089] Elastin is an essential protein found in the dermis, the middle layer of the skin, which gives the skin its suppleness and elasticity. With age, elastin production slows down and the elastic fibers already present can degrade, leading to wrinkles, sagging skin, and loss of elasticity. Increased elastin production in the skin helps to minimize the appearance of wrinkles and improve skin texture.

[0090] Hyaluronic acid is a naturally occurring moisturizing substance in the skin that can retain a large volume of water. With age, the body's production of hyaluronic acid tends to decrease, resulting in a loss of skin volume and elasticity. Increasing the skin's production of hyaluronic acid helps to hydrate the skin and restore its radiance.

[0091] Decorin is a small protein in the skin's extracellular matrix that plays a crucial role in skin formation and function by maintaining the skin's structural integrity. With age, decorin production decreases, contributing to skin aging. Increasing decorin production in the skin helps to firm and revitalize it.

[0092] The following description relates to examples of cosmetic active ingredients and cosmetic compositions according to the invention.

[0093] Example 1: Cosmetic active ingredient according to the invention.

[0094] The cosmetic active ingredient according to example 1 is obtained according to the following process: a. supply of unground flax seeds and an extraction solvent represented by birch sap; b. bringing into contact and stirring, at a temperature of 60 °C and for a period of 25 min, 100 g of flax seeds with 1000 g of birch sap so as to obtain a heated mixture; c. application of ultrasound at a frequency of 23 kHz to the heated mixture and stirring of the heated mixture for a period of 20 min in order to obtain a suspension; d. solid-liquid separation of said suspension so as to obtain, on the one hand, a liquid extract and, on the other hand, a solid residue; and e. recovery of the cosmetic active ingredient according to example 1 represented by the liquid extract obtained at the end of step d).

[0095] The carbohydrate portion of the cosmetic active ingredient according to example 1 comprises: • 30% by mass of xylose, • 15% by mass of rhamnose, • 13% by mass of galacturonic acid, • 12% by mass of arabinose, • 9% by mass of galactose, and • 3.5% by mass of fucose.

[0096] The cosmetic active ingredient according to Example 1 has a viscosity of 140 centipoise.

[0097] Example 2: Cosmetic active ingredient according to the invention.

[0098] The cosmetic active ingredient according to example 2 is obtained according to the following process: a. supply of unground flax seeds and an extraction solvent represented by birch sap; b. bringing into contact and stirring, at a temperature of 70 °C and for a period of 30 min, 100 g of flax seeds with 1000 g of birch sap so as to obtain a heated mixture; c. application of ultrasound at a frequency of 26 kHz to the heated mixture and stirring of the heated mixture for a period of 30 min in order to obtain a suspension; d. solid-liquid separation of said suspension so as to obtain, on the one hand, a liquid extract and, on the other hand, a solid residue; and e. recovery of the cosmetic active ingredient according to example 2 represented by the liquid extract obtained at the end of step d).

[0099] The carbohydrate portion of the cosmetic active ingredient according to example 2 comprises: • 32% by mass of xylose, • 16% by mass of rhamnose, • 13% by mass of galacturonic acid, • 13% by mass of arabinose, • 9.5% by mass of galactose, and • 3.5% by mass of fucose.

[0100] The cosmetic active ingredient according to example 2 has a viscosity of 180 centipoise.

[0101] Example 3: Cosmetic active ingredient according to the invention.

[0102] The cosmetic active ingredient according to example 3 is obtained according to the following process: a. supply of unground flax seeds and an extraction solvent represented by birch sap; b. bringing into contact and stirring, at a temperature of 80 °C and for a period of 35 min, 100 g of flax seeds with 1000 g of birch sap so as to obtain a heated mixture; c. application of ultrasound at a frequency of 29 kHz to the heated mixture and stirring of the heated mixture for a period of 40 min in order to obtain a suspension; d. solid-liquid separation of said suspension so as to obtain, on the one hand, a liquid extract and, on the other hand, a solid residue; and e. recovery of the cosmetic active ingredient according to example 3 represented by the liquid extract obtained at the end of step d).

[0103] The carbohydrate portion of the cosmetic active ingredient according to example 3 comprises: • 34% by mass of xylose, • 15.5% by mass of rhamnose,

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[0108] • 13% by mass of galacturonic acid, • 13% by mass of arabinose, • 9.5% by mass of galactose, and • 3.5% by mass of fucose. The cosmetic active ingredient according to example 3 has a viscosity of 220 centipoise. Example 4: Cosmetic composition in the form of an emulsion. The composition according to example 4 includes the following ingredients. [Table 1] Ingredients Mass Percentage Water QS 100 Active ingredient according to the invention 5.00 Benzyl alcohol 0.60 Potassium sorbate 0.12 Xanthan gum 0.50 Hydrogenated lecithin 3.00 Glyceryl stearate 3.00 Tetradecane 15.00 Lactic acid and water QS pH<5 The composition according to example 4 can be obtained using the following procedure: • Mixture A: - Mix water, the cosmetic active ingredient according to the invention, benzyl alcohol, potassium sorbate and xanthan gum. - Bring mixture A to a temperature of 80 °C. • Mixture B: - Mix together hydrogenated lecithin, glyceryl stearate and tetradecane. - Bring mixture B to a temperature of 80 °C. • Mixture C: - Mix lactic acid and water in a lactic acid / water ratio of 0.1. • Pour mixture B into mixture A and homogenize under stirring at 1500 rotations per minute. • Bring mixture A+B to room temperature. • Adjust the pH of mixture A+B with mixture C.

[0109] Example 5: Cosmetic composition.

[0110] The composition according to example 5 includes the following ingredients. [YES] [Table 2] Ingredients Mass Percentage Water QS 100 Active ingredient according to the invention 4.00 Glycerin 4.00 Sclerotium gum and xanthan gum 0.30 Benzyl alcohol 0.60 Potassium sorbate 0.12 Polyglyceryl-6 distearate and jojoba esters 4.00 Vegetable oil (Olus) 3.00 Cetyl alcohol 2.00 Glyceryl stearate citrate 0.30 Caprylic / capric triglyceride 5.00 Octyldodecanol 5.00 Lactic acid and water QS pH between 6 and 6.5

[0112] The composition according to example 5 can be obtained according to the following procedure: • Mixture A: - Mix together water, glycerin, benzyl alcohol, potassium sorbate, xanthan gum and sclerotium gum. - Bring mixture A to a temperature of 75 °C. • Mixture B: - Mix together benzyl alcohol, potassium sorbate, polyglyceryl-6 distearate and jojoba esters, vegetable oil (Olus), cetyl alcohol, glyceryl stearate citrate, caprylic / capric triglyceride and octyldodecanol. - Bring mixture B to a temperature of 70 °C. • Mixture C: - Mix lactic acid and water in a lactic acid / water ratio of 0.1. • Pour mixture B into mixture A and homogenize under stirring at 1500 rotations per minute. • Bring the A+B mixture to a temperature of 45 °C. • Add the cosmetic active ingredient according to the invention to mixture A+B. • Adjust the pH of the A+B+active mixture between 6 and 6.5 with mixture C.

[0113] Example 6: Cosmetic composition.

[0114] The composition according to example 6 includes the following ingredients.

[0115] [Table 3] Ingredients Mass Percentage Water QSP 100 Active ingredient according to the invention 3.00 Glycerin 3.00 Potassium sorbate 0.18 Xanthan gum 0.30 Cetearyl olivate and sorbitan olivate 3.00 Isocetyl stearate 3.00 Tetradecane 2.00 Lactic acid and water QS pH between 5 and 6

[0116] The composition according to example 5 can be obtained according to the following procedure: • Mixture A: - Mix together the water, glycerin, potassium sorbate and xanthan gum. - Bring mixture A to a temperature of 70 °C. • Mixture B: - Mix cetearyl olivate, sorbitan olivate, isocetyl stearate and tetradecane. - Bring mixture B to a temperature of 70 °C. • Mixture C: - Mix lactic acid and water in a lactic acid / water ratio of 0.1. • Pour mixture B into mixture A and homogenize under stirring at 1500 rotations per minute. • Bring the A+B mixture to a temperature of 40 °C. • Add the cosmetic active ingredient according to the invention to mixture A+B.

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[0125] • Adjust the pH between 5 and 6 of the A+B+active mixture with mixture C. The inventors carried out tests to demonstrate the anti-aging and moisturizing effect of the cosmetic extract and cosmetic composition according to the invention. More specifically, the inventors evaluated the effect of 2 products on the production by skin excipients of the following biomarkers: • Type I collagen, • type III collagen, • elastin, • hyaluronic acid, and • decorine. The products tested are as follows: • Product A: active ingredient according to the invention diluted to 3% in distilled water. • Product B: active ingredient according to the invention diluted to 5% in distilled water. Skin expiants were obtained and kept alive by growing them on metal grids in standard 12-well plates, in contact with a suitable medium, at 37°C in air humidified with 5% CO2. The expiations were divided into 3 experimental groups, the culture medium was renewed every 24 hours. [Table 4] Batch Treatment 0 None A Product AB Product B The expungants from lots A and B were treated with products A and B respectively by topical application at a dose of 2 mg / cm2. The applications of the products were repeated for a total of 10 applications over a period of 5 days at a rate of two applications per day. After incubating the expiants under optimal conditions overnight following the last application of the products, the expiants were collected. Half of each expiant was transferred to an OCT (Optimal Cutting Temperature) compound for cryopreservation and instantly frozen in liquid nitrogen, while the other half was transferred to an Eppendorf tube, rapidly frozen in liquid nitrogen, and both were stored at -80 °C for analysis. Explant sections 5 µm thick were obtained using a cryostat (Leica) and fixed with a solution containing 95% ethanol and 5% acetic acid or 3% formaldehyde, followed by a permeabilization step (0.1% Triton), when necessary.

[0126] A saturation step of non-specific sites was carried out with a bovine serum albumin solution (BSA 5%) in PBS (phosphate saline buffer, pH 7.4).

[0127] Tissue sections were incubated with a specific primary antibody for biomarker detection in a 5% BSA solution in PBS.

[0128] Excess primary antibody was removed by washing steps with a 5% BSA solution in PBS, then the explant sections were incubated with the secondary antibody coupled to a fluorophore (in the appendix), and the nuclei were labeled using DAPI (4',6-diamidino-2-phenylindole).

[0129] Finally, excess antibodies and DAPI were removed by a sequence of washing steps with PBS.

[0130] A series of images for each biomarker was acquired with an epifluorescence microscope (ThermoFisher). The images were collected and then analyzed using ImageJ software (Schneider).

[0131] For each biomarker of interest, quantification was performed on each image by integrating the specific fluorescence signal normalized by the surface area of ​​the evaluation zone. Three images per condition (one image per expiant) were analyzed and the quantified signal normalized with respect to lot 0 (considered to be 100%), to finally obtain a mean value and a standard deviation.

[0132] Statistical analyses were performed using the “GraphPad” software using a one-way ANOVA and Dunnett’s post-hoc test with respect to the stress condition (95% confidence interval).

[0133] The effects of the products were reported as a relative variation (%) compared to lot 0.

[0134] The results on the production of type I collagen are as follows.

[0135] [Table 5] Lot Relative variation compared to lot 0 (%) Significance (P-value) 0 0 / A 9 p<0.01 B 20 p<0.01

[0136] In the presence of product A, the inventors observed a significant increase in type I collagen of 9%.

[0137] In the presence of product B, the inventors observed a significant increase in type I collagen of 20%.

[0138] Thus, the active ingredient according to the invention induces an increase in the production of type I collagen, with a dose effect.

[0139] The results on the production of type III collagen are as follows.

[0140] [Table 6] Lot Relative variation compared to lot 0 (%) Significance (P-value) 0 0 / A 14 p<0.01 B 25 p<0.001

[0141] In the presence of product A, the inventors observed a significant increase in type III collagen of 14%.

[0142] In the presence of product B, the inventors observed a significant increase in type III collagen of 25%.

[0143] Thus, the active ingredient according to the invention induces an increase in the production of type III collagen, with a dose effect.

[0144] The results on elastin production are as follows.

[0145] [Table 7] Lot Relative variation compared to lot 0 (%) Significance (P-value) 0 0 / A 14 p<0.001 B 25 p<0.001

[0146] In the presence of product A, the inventors observed a significant increase in elastin of 14%.

[0147] In the presence of product B, the inventors observed a significant increase in elastin of 25%.

[0148] Thus, the active ingredient according to the invention induces an increase in elastin production, with a dose effect.

[0149] The results on the production of hyaluronic acid are as follows.

[0150] [Table 8] Lot Relative variation compared to lot 0 (%) Significance (P-value) 0 0 / A 41 p<0.001 B 15 p<0.001

[0151] In the presence of product A, the inventors observed a significant increase in hyaluronic acid of 41%.

[0152] In the presence of product B, the inventors observed a significant increase in hyaluronic acid of 15%.

[0153] Thus, the active ingredient according to the invention induces an increase in the production of hyaluronic acid.

[0154] The results on decorin production are as follows.

[0155] [Table 9] Lot Relative variation compared to lot 0 (%) Significance (P-value) 0 0 / A 30 p<0.001 B 5 p<0.05

[0156] In the presence of product A, the inventors observed a significant increase in decorin of 30%.

[0157] In the presence of product B, the inventors observed a significant increase in decorin of 5%.

[0158] Thus, the asset according to the invention induces an increase in the production of decorin.

[0159] These results demonstrate the anti-aging and moisturizing effects of the active ingredient according to the invention and of the composition according to the invention.

[0160] The inventors also evaluated the effect of product B on skin radiance and luminosity. After in vivo application of product B, the inventors observed an immediate increase in skin radiance and luminosity, and after 2 hours of application of product B.

[0161] In addition, the cosmetic active ingredient according to the invention allows: • An increase in facial skin brightness of up to 1.6% immediately after application of product B. • An increase in facial skin brightness of up to 2.0% after 2 hours of application of product B.

[0162] These results demonstrate the effects on the luminosity and radiance of the skin of the cosmetic active ingredient according to the invention and of the composition according to the invention.

Claims

Demands

1. Cosmetic active comprising an extract of flaxseed mucilage and birch sap, characterized in that it comprises a carbohydrate part.

2. Cosmetic active ingredient according to claim 1, characterized in that the carbohydrate portion represents between 2% and 5% by mass of the total mass of the active ingredient.

3. Cosmetic active according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the carbohydrate portion comprises: • between 29% and 35% by mass of xylose, • between 14% and 17% by mass of rhamnose, • between 13% and 14% by mass of galacturonic acid, • between 11% and 14% by mass of arabinose, • between 8% and 10% by mass of galactose, and • between 3% and 4% by mass of fucose.

4. Cosmetic composition comprising at least 0.1% by mass of a cosmetic active according to any one of claims 1 to 3.

5. Composition according to claim 4, characterized in that it is in the form of a gel, emulsion, cream, milk, lotion, serum, essence, oil, wax, stick, powder or encapsulated.

6. Cosmetic use of an active ingredient according to any one of claims 1 to 3 or of a composition according to any one of claims 4 to 5, for an anti-aging effect.

7. Cosmetic use of an active ingredient according to any one of claims 1 to 3 or of a composition according to any one of claims 4 to 5, for a moisturizing effect on the skin.

8. Cosmetic use of an active ingredient according to any one of claims 1 to 3 or of a composition according to any one of claims 4 to 5, to increase skin radiance.

9. Non-therapeutic cosmetic use of an active ingredient according to any one of claims 1 to 3 or of a composition according to any one of claims 4 to 5, to stimulate the secretion of type I collagen and / or type III collagen and / or elastin and / or hyaluronic acid and / or decorin by skin cells.

10. A process for obtaining a cosmetic active ingredient according to any one of claims 1 to 3 comprising the following steps: a. supply of unground flax seeds and an extraction solvent represented by birch sap; b. bringing flax seeds into contact with birch sap at a temperature between 50 °C and 90 °C for a period of 20 min to 40 min in order to obtain a heated mixture; c. application of ultrasound to the heated mixture for a period of between 10 min and 60 min in order to obtain a suspension; d. solid-liquid separation of said suspension so as to obtain, on the one hand, a liquid extract and, on the other hand, a solid residue; and e. recovery of the cosmetic active ingredient represented by the liquid extract obtained at the end of step d).