Cosmetic composition to improve hair density

Abstract

A cosmetic composition for improving hair density comprising, as active ingredients, a lipid extract of Coleus forskolhii, a hydrophilic extract of Saxifraga rotundifolia, a lipid extract of Triticum vulgare, and a hydrophilic extract of Quillaja saponaria, combined with at least five biomimetic peptides. A process for the cosmetic treatment of hair and scalp and a dermatological composition for its use as a medicinal product for treating hair loss.

Description

Title of the invention: Cosmetic composition for improving hair density. FIELD OF THE INVENTION

[0001] The technical field of the present invention relates to cosmetic and dermatological compositions for improving hair density, comprising as an active ingredient an effective amount of at least four plant extracts of Coleus forskolhii, Saxifraga rotundifolia, Triticum vulgare, and Quillaja saponaria, combined with at least five biomimetic peptides. Technological background

[0002] Humans have approximately 100,000 hair shafts on their scalp with varying degrees of hair growth, and the average lifespan of a hair shaft is about 3.5 years, with a growth rate of 1 millimeter per month. Hair has three regions: the medulla (the innermost layer, developed from transparent cells and varying according to hair type), the cortex (the middle layer, which provides strength to the hair shaft and is composed of keratin proteins), and the cuticle (the outermost layer). The hair follicle can be divided into lower, middle (isthmus), and upper (infundibulum) segments. The lower segment includes the bulb and suprabulb regions. The middle segment of the hair follicle includes the region extending from the insertion of the arrector pili muscle to the opening of the sebaceous gland duct.The upper segment of the follicle comprises the region between the opening of the sebaceous gland duct and the follicular orifice [Park, AM; Khan, S.; Rawnsley, J. Hair biology: Growth and pigmentation. Facial Plast. Surg. Clin. N. Am. 2018, 26, 415-424.]. .

[0003] Hair color, density, curl, and diameter are affected by hair aging, which contributes overall to hair appearance and manageability [Trüeb, RM Aging of hair. J. Cosmet. Dermatol. 2005, 4, 60-72]. Many factors affect hair health and the hair growth cycle. Pollution such as heavy metals (thallium, mercury, arsenic) and PM 2.5 particles from the combustion of petroleum compounds, toxins (Botulinum, Podostroma cornu-damae), medications, genetics, stress, smoking, menopause, lifestyle, and diet are some of the main factors associated with hair health. The combination of UV radiation and pollutants such as particles from oil combustion could exacerbate the biochemical and clinical effects of aging of hair and skin tissue and may cause hair loss such as alopecia areata.

[0004] The history of alopecia areata (AA) begins around 1500 BCE, but scientific studies on hair loss have accelerated in recent decades in terms of publications [Broadley, D.; McElwee, KJ A “hair-raising” history of alopecia areata. Exp. Dermatol. 2020, 29, 208-222.]. Even though hair is not important for humans in terms of biological protection, hair loss has significant social, psychological, and emotional impacts on anyone affected. Therefore, treating hair loss and / or improving hair and scalp health is a societal issue that should be addressed.

[0005] The prior art describes numerous cosmetic and dermatological compositions for stimulating hair growth. Many plant extracts, even peptides, or both in combination, are proposed to prevent hair loss and / or stimulate hair regrowth.

[0006] Surprisingly, the Inventor discovered that a new complex of four plant extracts [Coleus forskohlii, Saxifraga rotundifolia, Triticum durgidum and Quillaja saponaria] associated with 5 synthetic peptides [EGF, IGF-1, Acid FGF, Basic FGF, VEGF] exhibits strong stimulating activity on hair regrowth and improves scalp quality.

[0007] This particular combination of ingredients has never been described before in the field of hair care. Description of the invention

[0008] The invention relates to a cosmetic composition for improving hair density, comprising as an active ingredient an effective amount of at least four plant extracts selected from a lipid extract of Coleus forskolhii roots, a hydrophilic extract of Saxifraga rotundifolia, a lipid extract of Triticum vulgare and a hydrophilic extract of Quillaja saponaria wood, combined with at least five synthetic biomimetic peptides selected from EGF, IGF-1, Acid FGF, Basic FGF, and VEGF, and a physiologically acceptable excipient.

[0009] The invention also relates to a method for the cosmetic treatment of hair and scalp which consists of applying, twice a day, to the hair and scalp, an effective quantity of about 0.5 to 1.5 grams (g) of such a composition, for about 1 to 9 minutes (min), in particular 3 to 7 minutes, and optionally rinsing with water or shampoo.

[0010] The invention further relates to a dermatological composition for use as a medicinal product to prevent and treat hair loss, containing as an active ingredient an effective amount of at least four plant extracts selected from a lipid extract of Coleus forskolhii roots, a hydrophilic extract of Saxifraga rotundifolia, a lipid extract of Triticum vulgare and a hydrophilic extract of Quillaja saponaria wood, combined with at least five synthetic biomimetic peptides selected from EGF, IGF-1, Acid FGF, Basic FGF, and VEGF, and a dermatologically acceptable excipient.

[0011] Finally, the invention relates to the process for preparing a cosmetic and dermatological composition according to the invention comprising: - Mixture of lipid extract from Coleus forskolhii roots and lipid extract from Tricitum vulgare, - Addition of the mixture to an aqueous phase containing the hydrophilic extract of Saxifraga rotundifolia, the hydrophilic extract of Quillaja saponaria wood, as well as at least five synthetic biomimetic peptides, - Shake and cool to room temperature. DEFINITIONS

[0012] In the present invention, the terms are defined as follows:

[0013] “Improving hair density” means improving the quality of the scalp and Stimulate hair regrowth. This improvement in hair density applies to hair loss or alopecia, but also to fine and thinning hair and also to maintain the results of hair transplants.

[0014] “Synthetic biomimetic peptides” refers to peptides, acting in the Cellular repair processes, such as the peptides EGF, IGF-1, FGF Acid, FGF Basic, and VEGF, which have been synthetically or biosynthetically reproduced and which, in turn, mimic these different cellular repair processes—hence their name, biomimetics. Synthetic reproduction is a chemical synthesis process, while biosynthetic reproduction is a biotechnological synthesis process (by implanting their coding gene into a bacterium).

[0015] “Lipid extract of Coleus forskohlii roots (INCI name: Coleus Forskohlii) "Root Extract") refers to an extract obtained, for example, by supercritical CO2 extraction.

[0016] Coleus forskohlii, or Indian Coleus, is a tropical perennial plant with recognized properties on lipid metabolism. Used in Ayurvedic medicine for centuries, it grows in Southeast Asia: India, Thailand, Nepal, Pakistan, and Sri Lanka. In traditional Indian medicine systems, due to its composition of chamecydine, alpha-hydroxymethylcryptojaponol, alpha-cedrene, oleanolic acid, forskolin G, forskolin J, l,6-diacetyl-9-deoxyforskolin, forskolin A, forskolin H, 6-acetyl-l-deoxyforskolin, betulinic acid, and beta-sitosterol, extracts of Coleus forskohlii roots are also used as a tonic. Other relevant therapeutic properties include anthelmintic actions and efficacy in the management of skin infections and rashes.

[0017] “Hydrophilic extract of Saxifraga rotundifolia (INCI name: Saxifraga rotundifolia) extract) » refers to an extract obtained for example using a REUS brand ultrasonic extractor and in the presence of water and glycerol.

[0018] Round-leaved saxifrage is a perennial plant species in the Saxifragaceae family. Reaching a height of 20 to 50 cm, it has rounded leaves with large teeth along the edges. Its flowers form small white stars, each with five petals adorned with tiny dots that range from yellow in the center to red at the tips. It prefers cool, shady spots and grows along streams. It is often found hidden in the shade of tall plants in mountain herbaceous stands. Its hydrophilic extract contains polyphenols and glycoflavonoids, which may give it anti-inflammatory properties.

[0019] “Lipid extract of Triticum vulgare (or Wheat) vulgare (INCI name: Glycosphingolipids (and) Glycolipids)» refers to an extract obtained for example by supercritical CO2 extraction.

[0020] Triticum vulgare lipid extract belongs to the class of "anti-inflammatory agents," primarily used to treat vaginal yeast infections, pressure ulcers (bedsores), skin lesions, and burns. This Triticum vulgare extract contains vitamin E and is used as a skin conditioning agent. It also aids in the skin healing and regeneration process. It contains antioxidants and is used to treat skin scars. When used for yeast infections, it effectively reduces the severity of symptoms such as vaginal dryness, pain, burning, itching, and discharge.

[0021] “Hydrophilic extract of the wood of Quillaja saponaria saponaria (INCI name: Quillaja Saponaria Wood Extract)» refers to an extract obtained for example using a REUS brand ultrasonic extractor and in the presence of demineralized water.

[0022] The hydrophilic extract of the wood of Quillaja saponaria, or the Chilean soapberry tree, has long been used in its native region to treat various chest and skin conditions. It is thought to be particularly effective as an expectorant, helping the body clear phlegm by increasing the production of fluid mucus. Quillaja saponaria is also used to treat dandruff and skin ulcers because it is a gentle cleanser. Recent research indicates that this tree may be effective in reducing and even preventing rotavirus infection in children. External uses of Quillaja saponaria include remedies for dandruff, skin ulcers, and other cuticle problems. The extract of this plant is It is associated with anti-inflammatory properties. It is also thought to soothe itchy skin and scalp irritations.

[0023] “EGF peptide”, for Epidermal Growth Factor, is the growth factor In the epidermis, it is a polypeptide of 53 amino acids. The chemically synthesized biomimetic EGF peptide is named sh-Oligopeptide-1.

[0024] “The IGF-1 peptide”, for “Insulin-Growth Factor 1”, for growth hormone IGF-1, also called somatomedin C, is a protein produced by the liver, muscles, and other tissues in response to stimulation by growth hormone (GH). IGF-1 promotes bone growth and muscle mass growth. The chemically synthesized biomimetic IGF-1 peptide is called sh-Oligopeptide-2.

[0025] “The Acid FGF peptide” for “Acid Fibroblast Growth Factor” is the factor of Fibroblast growth acid, marketed for example under the SIGMA brand at the priority date. The chemically synthesized biomimetic FGF Acid peptide is named sh-Polypeptide-1.

[0026] “The Basic FGF peptide” for “Basic Fibroblast Growth Factor” is the factor basic fibroblast growth peptide, marketed for example under the SIGMA brand at the priority date. The chemically synthesized biomimetic FGF Basic peptide is named sh-Polypeptide-9.

[0027] “The VEDF peptide, for “Vascular Endothelium Growth Factor”, is the factor vascular endothelial growth, marketed for example under the SIGMA brand at the priority date. The chemically synthesized biomimetic VEDF peptide is named sh-Polypeptide-11.

[0028] “Active ingredient” means a substance which, in the cosmetic composition, or in a dermatological drug, presents the desired activity and / or a desired therapeutic effect and which is present most of the time, in very small proportion compared to the excipients.

[0029] “physiologically acceptable” and “dermatologically acceptable” means which Suitable for topical use, in contact with human skin, or for use by other routes of administration, for example, oral or intradermal injection, without risk of toxicity, incompatibility, instability, or allergic reaction. Brief description of the drawings

[0030] Other features, advantages and details of the invention will be better understood upon reading the supplementary description that follows in relation to the drawings in which:

[0031] [Fig. 1] illustrates the results of the labeling and therefore the expression of hyaluronic acid in the papillary dermis and the epidermis of the scalp,

[0032] [Fig.2] illustrates the results of the labeling and therefore the expression of PINK1 of the hair follicle cells.

[0033] [Fig.3] illustrates the results of the labeling and therefore of the expression of Nrf2.

[0034] DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF EMBODIMENT METHODS OF THE INVENTION

[0035] The invention relates to a cosmetic composition for improving hair density, comprising as an active ingredient an effective amount of at least four plant extracts selected from a lipid extract of Coleus forskolhii roots, a hydrophilic extract of Saxifraga rotundifolia, a lipid extract of Triticum vulgare and a hydrophilic extract of Quillaja saponaria wood, associated with at least five synthetic biomimetic peptides selected from EGF, IGF-1, Acid FGF, Basic FGF, and VEGF, and a physiologically acceptable excipient.

[0036] Surprisingly, the inventor found that by combining in a composition four plant extracts chosen from a lipid extract of Coleus forskolhii roots, a hydrophilic extract of Saxifraga rotundifolia, a lipid extract of Triticum vulgare and a hydrophilic extract of Quillaja saponaria wood with five synthetic biomimetic peptides chosen from EGF, IGF-1, Acid FGF, Basic FGF, and VEGF, the cosmetic composition according to the invention: - allows to increase the expression of hyaluronic acid at the level of the papillary dermis of the scalp - It therefore has properties of hydration and repair of skin tissue and participates in the cellular proliferation of skin tissue cells; - allows to increase the expression of PINK1 at the level of the cells of the hair follicle - It therefore participates in the maintenance of cellular homeostasis of the cells; - allows to decrease the expression of Nrf2 at the level of the epidermis - It therefore possesses antiradical properties; - allows to increase the concentration of ATP at the level of the cells of the hair follicle - It therefore allows to promote the proliferation and inhibit the terminal differentiation of keratinocytes; - also allows it to participate in the repair of the scalp's skin barrier.

[0037] According to a particular embodiment, the cosmetic composition of the present invention may optionally further comprise at least one additional plant extract, different from the four extracts defined above, and / or at least one additional biomimetic peptide, different from the five peptides defined above.

[0038] According to a particular embodiment, in the cosmetic composition according to the invention, the at least four plant extracts are each present between 0.01% and 5.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and the at least five peptides are each present between 0.005% and 1.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0039] According to a particular embodiment, in the cosmetic composition according to the invention, the at least four plant extracts are each present between 0.05% and 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition and the at least five peptides are each present between 0.01% and 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, for example 0.2%, 0.5%, 0.7%, 0.9% by weight for the plant extracts and 0.02%, 0.04%, 0.07% and 0.08% for the biomimetic peptides.

[0040] According to one embodiment, in the cosmetic composition according to the invention, the biomimetic peptides are the chemically synthesized biomimetic peptides sh-Oligopeptide-1, sh-Oligopeptide-2, sh-Polypeptide-1, sh-Polypeptide-9 and sh-Polypeptide-11.

[0041] According to a particular embodiment, in the cosmetic composition according to the invention, the active principle consists of the four plant extracts associated with the five biomimetic peptides, preferably chemically synthesized biomimetic peptides.

[0042] The cosmetic composition according to the invention may optionally include further any additive commonly used in the field of application envisaged as well as the adjuvants necessary for their formulation, such as solvents, thickeners, diluents, antioxidants, colorants, sun filters, self-tanning agents, pigments, fillers, preservatives, perfumes, odor absorbers, cosmetic or pharmaceutical actives, essential oils, vitamins, essential fatty acids, surfactants, film-forming polymers, etc.

[0043] The INCI Dictionary & Handbook ("International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients" (13th Ed. 2010) published by "the Personal Care Products Council, Inc.", Washington, DC) describes a wide variety, without limitation, of cosmetic and pharmaceutical ingredients commonly used in the skin care industry, which are suitable for use as additional ingredients in compositions according to the present invention.

[0044] When present in the cosmetic composition according to the invention, the total content of additional compounds, other than the active ingredients according to the invention, advantageously varies from 0.01 to 60% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. It is understood that those skilled in the art will take care to choose these potential additional compounds in such a way that the advantageous properties intrinsic to the cosmetic composition according to the invention are not, or are not substantially, altered by the addition of these potential compounds.

[0045] The invention also relates to the method for the cosmetic treatment of hair and scalp, characterized in that it consists of applying, twice a day, to the hair and scalp, an effective quantity of about 0.5 to 1.5 g of a composition according to the invention, for about 1 to 9 minutes (min), in particular 3 to 7 min, and optionally rinsing with water or shampoo.

[0046] According to one embodiment of the cosmetic treatment method according to the invention, the scalp is treated with light emitted by light-emitting diodes (LEDs) at wavelengths of 670 nm and 880 nm for a duration of between 10 and 60 minutes, in particular between 15 and 45 minutes, typically between 25 and 35 minutes. This treatment can be applied between once a week and once a day, typically between two and three times a week.

[0047] The invention also relates to a dermatological composition for use as a medicinal product to prevent and treat hair loss, containing as an active ingredient an effective amount of at least four plant extracts selected from a lipid extract of Coleus forskolhii roots, a hydrophilic extract of Saxifraga rotundifolia, a lipid extract of Triticum vulgare and a hydrophilic extract of Quillaja saponaria wood, combined with at least five synthetic biomimetic peptides selected from EGF, IGF-1, Acid FGF, Basic FGF, and VEGF, and a dermatologically acceptable excipient.

[0048] According to one embodiment, in the dermatological composition according to the invention, the at least four plant extracts are each present between 3% and 5.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition and the at least five peptides are each present between 0.6% and 1.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0049] According to one embodiment, in the dermatological composition according to the invention, the biomimetic peptides are the chemically synthesized biomimetic peptides sh-Oligopeptide-1, sh-Oligopeptide-2, sh-Polypeptide-1, sh-Polypeptide-9 and sh-Polypeptide-11.

[0050] According to a particular embodiment, in the dermatological composition according to the invention, the active principle consists of the four plant extracts associated with the five biomimetic peptides, preferably chemically synthesized biomimetic peptides.

[0051] The dermatological composition according to the invention may optionally include further any additive commonly used in the intended field of application as well as the adjuvants necessary for their formulation, as mentioned above for the cosmetic composition.

[0052] The invention also relates to the process for preparing a cosmetic and dermatological composition such as the one mentioned above, comprising:

[0053] - Mixture of the lipid extract of Coleus forskolhii roots and the extract lipid of Tricitum vulgare - the mixture is for example made under agitation - the mixture is for example made at a temperature higher than ambient temperature, for example at a temperature higher than 70°C, or even higher than 75°C, or even higher than 80°C,

[0054] - Addition of the mixture to an aqueous phase containing the hydrophilic extract of Saxifraga rotundifolia, the hydrophilic extract of Quillaja saponaria wood, as well as at least five synthetic biomimetic peptides - this addition is made, for example, under agitation - this addition is made, for example, to an aqueous phase brought to a temperature above ambient temperature, for example, above 70°C, or even above 75°C, or even above 80°C, for example, the same temperature as the mixture temperature,

[0055] - Agitation and cooling to room temperature - Agitation can by example be maintained for at least 30 minutes, for example between 45 minutes and 90 minutes - Preservatives may be added to the composition during this phase - cooling may be forced or natural.

[0056] The compositions according to the invention may in particular be in the form of creams, oil-in-water emulsions, or water-in-oil or multiple emulsions, serums, solutions, suspensions, gels, milks, lotions, sticks or even powders, and adapted for application on the skin and / or hair.

[0057] The composition according to the invention consists in particular of a hair care composition, including a shampoo, conditioner, treatment lotion, styling cream or gel, hair restructuring lotion, mask, etc. The cosmetic composition according to the invention can be used in particular in treatments involving application followed or not by rinsing, or in the form of a shampoo. It can also be in the form of a dye or mascara to be applied with a brush or comb, particularly to the eyelashes, eyebrows, or hair.

[0058] In an embodiment according to the invention, the cosmetic or dermatological composition according to the invention is in the form of a gel, lotion, mousse, balm, cream, spray or serum. EXAMPLES

[0059] The present invention will be better understood by reading the following examples which illustrate the invention in a non-limiting way.

[0060] Example 1: tests of the different biological activities of the composition

[0061] In order to demonstrate the effectiveness of the composition according to the invention, the inventor analyzed the biological activity of the composition on human skin excipients, with hair follicles present, ex vivo by histological, biochemical and genomics and he realized that the composition according to the invention induced the following at the level of human skin and hair follicles:

[0062] - an increase in hyaluronic acid synthesis,

[0063] - an increase in the expression of PINK1,

[0064] - a decrease in the expression of Nrf2,

[0065] - an increase in ATP synthesis,

[0066] - regeneration of the scalp skin barrier,

[0067] - a differentiation of keratinocytes,

[0068] The histological and biochemical studies further consist of analyzing the effect of the composition according to the invention on the expression of hyaluronic acid, PINKl, and Nrf2 by cells from human skin explants as well as their ATP concentration.

[0069] To this end, the following products were tested:

[0070] - The PI product comprises 5% by mass of lipid extract of Coleus forskohlii, 5% by mass of hydrophilic extract of Saxifraga rotundifolia, 5% by mass of lipid extract of Triticum vulgare, 5% by mass of hydrophilic extract of Quillaja saponaria and 1% by mass of the 5 biosynthetic peptides [EGF, IGF-1, Acidic FGF, Basic FGF, and VEGF]. This mixture was made up with 79% by mass of demineralized water and treated with ultrasound (BRANSON ultrasonic probe and device) for 10 minutes at room temperature.

[0071] - product P2 comprises 1% by mass of lipid extract of Coleus forskohlii, 1% by mass of hydrophilic extract of Saxifraga rotundifolia, 1% by mass of lipid extract of Triticum vulgare, 1% by mass of extract of Quillaja saponaria and 0.1% by mass of the 5 biosynthetic peptides [EGF, IGF-1, Acid FGF, Basic FGF, and VEGF]. This mixture was made up with 95.9% by mass of demineralized water and sonically aspirated for 10 minutes at room temperature.

[0072] - product E comprising 100% by mass of distilled water.

[0073] Human skin expiants obtained from scalp plastic surgery were prepared and divided into four batches:

[0074] - lot T0 corresponding to the plastic control and comprising 3 expiry items,

[0075] - lot T corresponding to the control and comprising 6 expiators,

[0076] - batch E corresponding to the batch treated with product E and comprising 6 expiants,

[0077] - the PI batch corresponding to the batch treated with the PI product and comprising 6 expiants,

[0078] - the batch P2 corresponding to the batch treated with product P2 and comprising 6 expiants.

[0079] Each skin expiant was placed in survival in culture medium at a temperature of 37°C in a humid atmosphere enriched with 5% CO2.

[0080] At T = 0 days (J0), T = 1 day (J1), T = 4 days (J4), T = 6 days (J6) and T = 7 days (J7), 5 pL of products E, PI and P2 were respectively applied topically to the expiants of lots E, PI and P2.

[0081] At day 0, the 3 expiants from batch T0 were taken and cut into three parts. The first part was fixed in a buffered formalin solution, the second part was frozen at -80°C for histological analysis, and the third part was frozen at -80°C for biochemical analysis.

[0082] At T = 5 days (D5) and T = 8 days (D8), 3 expiants from lots T, E, PI and P2 were taken and treated in the same way as the expiants from lot T0.

[0083] After 24 hours in buffered formalin, the samples were dehydrated and impregnated with paraffin, then encased in blocks. Sections of 5 µm were prepared and mounted on histological glass slides.

[0084] The general morphology of the dermal and epidermal structures was analyzed on paraffin sections after staining with Masson trichrome variant of Goldner and evaluated by microscopic examination.

[0085] Hyaluronic acid expression in the papillary dermis and scalp epidermis was observed by immunostaining hyaluronic acid from batches T0, T at days 5 (TJ5) and 8 (TJ8), E at days 5 (EJ5) and 8 (EJ8), PI at days 5 (P1J5) and 8 (P1J8), and P2 at days 5 (P2J5) and 8 (P2J8). Hyaluronic acid was labeled on formalin-paraffin sections with HABP (Hyaluronic Acid Binding Protein) diluted 1 / 800th in 0.3% PBS-BSA for 1 hour at room temperature with a biotin / streptavidin amplification system and visualized by VIP. The immunostaining was then evaluated by microscopic observation.

[0086] PINK1 expression in hair follicle cells was observed by PINK1 immunostaining of batches T0, T at days 5 (TJ5) and 8 (TJ8), E at days 5 (EJ5) and 8 (EJ8), PI at days 5 (P1J5) and 8 (P1J8), and P2 at days 5 (P2J5) and 8 (P2J8). PINK1 was labeled on paraffin sections with an anti-PINK1 monoclonal antibody diluted 1 / 100 in 0.3% PBS20 BSA overnight at room temperature of 4°C with a biotin / streptavidin amplification system and visualized by VIP. The immunostaining was then evaluated by microscopic observation.

[0087] Cellular Nrf2 expression was observed by performing Nrf2 immunostaining on batches T0, T at days 5 (TJ5) and 8 (TJ8), E at days 5 (EJ5) and 8 (EJ8), PI at days 5 (P1J5) and 8 (P1J8), and P2 at days 5 (P2J5) and 8 (P2J8). Nrf2 was labeled on paraffin sections with an anti-Nrf2 monoclonal antibody diluted 1 / 400 in 0.3%-Tween 20 PBS-BSA to 0.05% for one hour at room temperature with a biotin / streptavidin amplification system and visualized by VIP. The immunostaining was then evaluated by microscopic observation.

[0088] ATP levels were measured in batches T0, T at days 5 (TJ5) and 8 (TJ8), E at days 5 (EJ5) and 8 (EJ8), PI at days 5 (P1J5) and 8 (P1J8), and P2 at days 5 (P2J5) and 8 (P2J8). Frozen skin excipients were ground and then subjected to ultrasonic cell disruption. After centrifugation at 4000 rpm at 18°C, the proteins in the supernatant were measured using the Bradford assay. The ATP content of the excipients was quantified using an ATP assay kit and a fluorometer.

[0089] In figures 1 to 3, TF corresponds to a very weak marking, F to a weak marking, M to a moderate marking, AN to a fairly clear marking, N to a clear marking, TH to a very clear marking and Fo to a strong marking.

[0090] Fig. 1 illustrates the results of the labeling and therefore the expression of hyaluronic acid in the papillary dermis and the epidermis of the scalp.

[0091] Hyaluronic acid is a non-sulfated glycosaminoglycan composed of repeating D-glucuronic acid and DN-acetylglucosamine. It is a major component of the skin and is involved in several cellular processes, including hydration, skin tissue repair, and cell proliferation. For example, under chronic UV exposure, hyaluronic acid synthesis decreases while hyaluronidase activity remains unchanged. This results in significant hyaluronic acid degradation. HABP (Hyaluronic Acid Binding Protein) is a protein that links hyaluronic acid to other components of the dermal extracellular matrix, including proteoglycans. It is used in dermatological research to visualize hyaluronic acid within skin tissue.

[0092] It can be seen in [Fig.1] that the hyaluronic acid labeling at the level of the epidermis is weak on lot T0, weak to moderate on lots TJ8, EJ8, P1J8 and P2J8 and moderate on lots TJ5, EJ5, P1J5 and P2J5.

[0093] Thus, whether at J5 or J8, the PI and P2 products do not induce any changes in the expression of hyaluronic acid compared to the control T and the E product.

[0094] Hyaluronic acid labeling at the level of the papillary dermis is weak to moderate on lots TJ8, EJ8, P1J8 and P2J8, moderate on lots TJ5, EJ5, and P2J5 and quite clear on lots T0 and P1J5.

[0095] Thus, the PI product induces a moderate increase in hyaluronic acid expression compared to the T control and the E product at the level of the papillary dermis.

[0096] The composition according to the invention therefore effectively increases the expression of hyaluronic acid in the papillary dermis of the scalp. It thus possesses hydrating and repairing properties for skin tissue and participates in the cell proliferation of skin tissue cells.

[0097] Figure [Fig.2] illustrates the results of the labeling and therefore the expression of PINK1 in the hair follicle cells.

[0098] PINK1 (P-TEN Induced Putative Kinase 1) is a protein involved in the mechanism of mitophagy, a process of selective autophagy of damaged and non-functional mitochondria. It accumulates specifically on the surface of the outer membrane of damaged mitochondria whose electrochemical potential is disrupted. Within skin tissue and hair follicle cells, the mitophagy process is stimulated by oxidative stress, linked to the accumulation of reactive oxygen species, which contributes to the elimination of damaged mitochondria and the maintenance of cellular homeostasis. PINK1 is also linked to cellular anti-aging mechanisms, particularly in the skin.

[0099] PINK1 labeling at the level of hair follicle cells is weak on lot T0, weak to moderate on lots TJ8 and EJ8, moderate on lots TJ5 and EJ5 and moderate to fairly clear on lots P1J5, P2J5, P1J8 and P2J8.

[0100] Thus, whether at J5 or J8, the PI and P2 products induce an increase in the expression of PINK1 compared to the control T and the E product.

[0101] The composition according to the invention therefore increases the expression of PINK1 at the cellular level. It thus contributes to maintaining cellular homeostasis of hair follicle cells and possesses anti-aging properties.

[0102] Fig. 3 illustrates the results of the labeling and therefore of the expression of cellular Nrf2.

[0103] Nrf2 is a transcription factor with a key role in the oxidative stress response and is constitutively expressed in a wide range of cells and tissues. Under oxidative stress, including UV exposure, Nrf2 is phosphorylated, promoting its subsequent translocation from the cytoplasm to the nucleus. Once translocated to the nucleus, Nrf2 is able to bind to DNA at a specific region, also known as HARE (Human Antioxidant Response Element). In particular, Nrf2 plays a key role in protecting hair follicle keratinocytes from alterations induced by UV radiation and PM2.5 particulate pollution.

[0104] Nrf2 labeling at the epidermal level is weak to moderate on lots TJ8, EJ8, P1J8 and P2J8, moderate on lot P1J5, moderate to fairly clear on lots TJ5, EJ5, P2J5 and fairly clear to clear on lot T0.

[0105] Thus, the PI product induces a decrease in the expression of Nrf2 compared to the control T and the E product.

[0106] The composition according to the invention thus reduces the expression of Nrf2 at the cellular level. This reduction in Nrf2 expression reflects its translocation from the cytoplasm to the nucleus, where it activates genes responsible for cellular protection, and in particular the synthesis of antioxidant enzymes. The composition according to the invention therefore possesses free radical scavenging and antioxidant properties.

[0107] The table below illustrates the results of the ATP assay of batches T0, TJ5, EJ5, P1J5, P2J5, TJ8, EJ8, P1J8 and P2J8.

[0108] [Tables] ATP concentration (pmol / g of protein) T0 TJ5 EJ5 P1J5 P2J5 TJ8 EJ8 P1J8 P2J8 Average 0.50 2.37 2.41 2.75 4.15 3.77 3.82 4.45 3.84

[0109] ATP (adenosine triphosphate) is a nucleotide known to stimulate and participate in countless intracellular processes. Extracellular ATP and its metabolite tadenosine can exert a variety of effects on almost every cell type in human skin, including scalp cells, and potential cutaneous sources of ATP are abundant. These include, for example, ATP released by tissue hypoxia and cell lysis during mechanical injury, and ATP release from keratinocytes in response to nucleotides or cytokines. ATP promotes keratinocyte proliferation and inhibits terminal keratinocyte differentiation via P2Y2 receptors located in the basal layer of the epidermis.ATP also plays a crucial role in organizing skin responses to mechanical injuries, both by modulating inflammatory processes in Langerhans cells and by directly stimulating skin regeneration and healing. Furthermore, ATP is an important energy molecule for intracellular processes and plays a major role in skin rejuvenation. With aging, ATP levels in the dermis decline, creating an energy deficiency that affects the skin's appearance. Therefore, ATP is effective in providing anti-aging protection and also has hydrating and soothing properties.

[0110] Thus, it is observed that the products PI and P2 induce an increase in ATP concentration compared to the control T and product E.

[0111] The composition according to the invention increases the ATP concentration in epidermal cells. Increased ATP production in the skin improves its metabolic functions. The composition according to the invention therefore promotes proliferation and inhibits terminal differentiation of keratinocytes in the hair follicle. Furthermore, the composition according to the invention contributes to the repair of the scalp's skin barrier.

[0112] Tests were also carried out on compositions comprising between 0.1% and 1% by mass of lipid extract of Coleus forskohlii, between 0.1% and 1% by mass of hydrophilic extract of Saxifraga rotundifolia, between 0.1% and 1% by mass of lipid extract of Triticum vulgare, between 0.1% and 1% by mass of extract of Quillaja saponaria and between 0.01% and 0.09% by mass of the 5 biosynthetic peptides [EGF, 1TGF-1, the Acidic FGF, Basic FGF, and VEGF. These mixtures were diluted with demineralized water and sonicated using ultrasound for 10 minutes at room temperature. It was found that these compositions possessed the same properties as the aforementioned PI and P2 products.

[0113] The following description relates to examples of cosmetic compositions according to the invention.

[0114] Example 2: Scalp serum

[0115] [Tables2] INCI name Mass percentage Coleus Forskohlii Root Extract 5 Saxifraga rotundifolia extract 5 Glycosphingolipids (and) Glycolipids 5 Quillaja Saponaria Wood Extract 5 sh-Oligopeptide-1 (and) sh-Oligopeptide-2 (and) sh-Polypeptide-1 (and) sh-Polype ptide-9 (and) sh-Polypeptide-11 1 Glycerin 5 Tamarindus Indica Seed Gum 2 Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid 1 Sodium Benzoate 0.2 Potassium Sorbate 0.2 Xanthan Gum 2 Citric acid 0.5 Aqua 68.1

[0116] Example 3: Hair mask

[0117] [Tableaux3] Dénomination INCI Pourcentage massique Coleus Forskohlii Root Extract 2 Saxifraga rotundifolia extract 2 Glycosphingolipids (and) Glycolipids 2 Quillaja Saponaria Wood Extract 2 sh-Oligopeptide-1 (and) sh-Oligopeptide-2 (and) sh-Polypeptide-1 (and) sh-Polype ptide-9 (and) sh-Polypeptide-11 0,2 Olive Oil Decyl Esters 5 Cetearyl Olivate 5 Heptyl Undecylenate 2 Sorbitan Olivate 2 Hydrogenated Olive Oil Decyl Esters 4 Corylus Avellana (Hazelnut) Seed Oil 4 Squalane 1 Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate 2 Hexyldecanol 1 Hexyldecyl Laurate 2 Citric Acid 0,5 Prunus Domestica Seed Oil 2 Hydrogenated Olive Oil Unsaponifiables 2 Sodium Benzoate 0,2 Xanthan Gum 1 Lauroyl Lysine 2,5 Squalene 1 Glycerin 5 Tamarindus Indica Seed Gum 2 Potassium Sorbate 0,2 Hydrogenated Castor Oil 2,5 Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil 2,5 Aqua 42,4

[0118] Exemple 4 : Spray pour les cheveux

[0119] [T ableaux4] Dénomination INCI Pourcentage massique Coleus Forskohlii Root Extract 1 Saxifraga rotundifolia extract 1 Glycosphingolipids (and) Glycolipids 1 Quillaja Saponaria Wood Extract 1 sh-Oligopeptide-1 (and) sh-Oligopeptide-2 (and) sh-Polypeptide-1 (and) sh-Polype ptide-9 (and) sh-Polypeptide-11 0,4 Potassium Sorbate 0,2 Sodium Benzoate 0,2 Aqua 95 Parfum 0,2

[0120] Exemple 5 : Tonique soin capillaire au CBD

[0121] [Tableaux5] Dénomination INCI Pourcentage massique Coleus Forskohlii Root Extract 3 Saxifraga rotundifolia extract 3 Glycosphingolipids (and) Glycolipids 3 Quillaja Saponaria Wood Extract 3 sh-Oligopeptide-1 (and) sh-Oligopeptide -2 (and) sh-Polypeptide-1 (and) sh-Polypepti de-9 (and) sh-Polypeptide-11 0,6 Cannabidiol powder 0,1 Aqua 86,7 Parfum 0,2 Potassium Sorbate 0,2 Sodium Benzoate 0,2

Claims

Demands

1. Cosmetic composition for improving hair density, comprising as an active ingredient an effective amount of at least four plant extracts selected from a lipid extract of Coleus forskolhii roots, a hydrophilic extract of Saxifraga rotundifolia, a lipid extract of Triticum vulgare and a hydrophilic extract of Quillaja saponaria wood, combined with at least five synthetic biomimetic peptides selected from EGF, IGF-1, Acid FGF, Basic FGF, and VEGF, and a physiologically acceptable excipient.

2. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the at least four plant extracts are each present between 0.01% and 5.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition and the at least five peptides are each present between 0.005% and 1.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

3. Composition according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the at least four plant extracts are each present between 0.05% and 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition and the at least five peptides are each present between 0.01% and 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

4. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the biomimetic peptides are the chemically synthesized peptides sh-Oligopeptide-1, sh-Oligopeptide-2, sh-Polypeptide-1, sh-Polypeptide-9 and sh-Polypeptide-11.

5. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the active ingredient consists of the four plant extracts associated with the five biomimetic peptides, preferably chemically synthesized biomimetic peptides.

6. A method for the cosmetic treatment of hair and scalp, characterized in that it consists of applying, twice a day, to the hair and scalp, an effective quantity of about 0.5 grams (g) to 1.5 g of a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, for about 1 to 9 minutes (min), in particular 3 to 7 min, and optionally rinsing with water or shampoo.

7. A method according to claim 6 characterized in that a light treatment is combined on the scalp with the lengths of 670 nm and 880 nm waves for a duration of between 10 minutes (mn) and 60 minutes, in particular between 15 and 45 minutes, typically between 25 and 35 minutes.

8. Dermatological composition for use as a medicinal product to prevent and treat hair loss containing as an active ingredient an effective amount of at least four plant extracts selected from a lipid extract of Coleus forskolhii roots, a hydrophilic extract of Saxifraga rotundifolia, a lipid extract of Triticum vulgare and a hydrophilic extract of Quillaja saponaria wood, combined with at least five synthetic biomimetic peptides selected from EGF, IGF-1, Acid FGF, Basic FGF, and VEGF, and a dermatologically acceptable excipient.

9. A process for preparing a cosmetic and dermatological composition according to claims 1 and 8 comprising: - Mixing the lipid extract of Coleus forskolhii roots and the lipid extract of Triticum vulgare, - Adding the mixture to an aqueous phase containing the hydrophilic extract of Saxifraga rotundifolia, the hydrophilic extract of Quillaja saponaria wood, and at least five synthetic biomimetic peptides, - Agitation and cooling to room temperature.

10. Composition according to claim 1 or claim 8, characterized in that it is in the form of a gel, lotion, foam, balm, cream, spray or serum.

Images