COSMETIC COMPOSITION
A cosmetic composition using C10-C40 alkyl acrylate and allyl stearate/vinyl acetate copolymers with emulsifying agents and fatty substances stabilizes skin-beneficial ingredients, addressing stickiness and maintaining a glossy or matte finish.
Patent Information
- Application Number
- FR2023012002
- Authority / Receiving Office
- FR · FR
- Patent Type
- Utility models
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Filing Date
- 2023-11-06
- Publication Date
- 2025-12-19
- Estimated Expiration
- 2033-11-06
AI Technical Summary
Cosmetic formulations often compromise stability when incorporating skin-beneficial ingredients, leading to sensory issues such as stickiness and inadequate moisturization, while maintaining a glossy or matte finish.
A cosmetic composition combining C10-C40 alkyl acrylate polymer and allyl stearate/vinyl acetate copolymer, with emulsifying agents like polyglyceryl-4 diisostearate/polyhydroxystearate/sebacate, polar solvents like glycerin, and fatty substances, to create a stable, low-stickiness emulsion.
The composition maintains stability and provides a non-sticky, moisturizing finish with a glossy or matte effect, enhancing sensory experience.
Smart Images

Figure 00000038_0000
Abstract
Description
Title of the invention: COSMETIC COMPOSITION technical field
[0001] This disclosure relates to the field of cosmetic compositions, and specifically, to stable, low-stickiness cosmetic compositions with skincare ingredients that also include both a C12-22 alkyl acrylate / hydroxyethyl acrylate copolymer and an allyl stearate / vinyl acetate (VA) copolymer. CONTEXT
[0002] Cosmetic formulations on the market often offer an excellent appearance in terms of color and uniformity. However, they are often devoid of skin-care ingredients due to the disruption of stability, and often, the addition of such ingredients compromises the sensory perception of the product.
[0003] Indeed, it is difficult to incorporate numerous skin-beneficial ingredients and actives into such formulas while controlling the overall stability of the final formula. These types of products also require certain cosmetic and sensory characteristics, including, for example, a non-sticky feel, and / or a moisturizing formula that provides, for example, a glossy, matte, or satin finish to the lips. BRIEF SUMMARY
[0004] A cosmetic composition may be proposed. The composition may be an emulsion. The cosmetic composition may include a C10-C40 alkyl acrylate polymer, such as a C12-22 alkyl acrylate / hydroxyethyl acrylate copolymer. The cosmetic composition may include an allylic polymer, such as allyl stearate / VA copolymer. The cosmetic composition may include an emulsifying agent or a stabilizer, such as polyglyceryl-4 diisostearate / polyhydroxystearate / sebacate.
[0005] The composition may include a polar solvent. The polar solvent may be a polyol. The polyol may be glycerin and may optionally include a glyceryl ether and / or a glyceryl ester.
[0006] The composition may include one or more fatty substances. The fatty substance(s) may be present in a total quantity of at least 30% by weight of the cosmetic composition. The fatty substance(s) may include, for example, diisostearoyl-3-polyglyceryl dimer dilinoleate.
[0007] The composition may include a polymeric elastomer. The composition may include a dispersing agent. The composition may include a hydrocarbon-based resin. The composition may include a polyolefin, a colorant, a preservative, an agent of Skin care and / or an antioxidant. The composition may be substantially water-free.
[0008] In various embodiments, a method may be proposed. The method may include providing a cosmetic composition as disclosed herein. The method may include applying the cosmetic composition to a lip or skin. Brief description of the drawings
[0009] [Fig-1] Fig. 1 is a graph showing the results of texture analyses of several formulations, including an exemplary formulation and two comparative formulas. DETAILED DESCRIPTION
[0010] As used herein, articles such as "a" and "an", when used in a claim, are understood to mean one or more of what is claimed or described.
[0011] As used herein, the expression "at least one" means one or more and thus includes individual components as well as mixtures / combinations.
[0012] All percentages listed are by weight unless otherwise stated. All concentrations are percentages by weight on an active basis unless otherwise stated.
[0013] As used here, the term "approximately [a number]" is intended to include values rounded to the appropriate significant figure. Thus, "approximately 1" would be intended to include values between 0.5 and 1.5, while "approximately 1.0" would be intended to include values between 0.95 and 1.05.
[0014] As used here, the term "between" two numbers is meant to include the numbers at the boundaries. Thus, between 0 and 1 would include both 0 and 1.
[0015] As used herein, the terms "include", "includes" and "including" are understood to be non-limiting.
[0016] As used herein, the expression "substantially free [of an ingredient]" means that the composition contains less than 1% of the identified ingredient. The expression "free [of an ingredient]" means that the composition contains less than 0.1% of the identified ingredient, preferably below detectable amounts of the identified ingredient, and most preferably, none of the identified ingredient.
[0017] The disclosed formulas combine a C10-C40 alkyl acrylate polymer and an allylic polymer to provide a unique experience. The combination remarkably improves the stability of emulsions, such as glycerin emulsions, while maintaining a low-stickiness sensory feel.
[0018] Thus, a cosmetic composition can be proposed. The composition can be an emulsion.
[0019] Polymers.
[0020] The cosmetic composition may include two types of polymers.
[0021] The cosmetic composition may include a C10-C40 alkyl acrylate polymer. The C10-C40 alkyl acrylate polymer may be a homopolymer. The C10-C40 alkyl acrylate polymer may be a copolymer. Non-limiting examples of such polymers include the C12-22 alkyl acrylate / methacrylate copolymer, the C2-22 alkyl acrylate / methacrylate copolymer, the C12-22 alkyl acrylate / hydroxyethyl acrylate copolymer, and / or the C10-C30 alkyl acrylate / acrylate crosslinked polymers. In some embodiments, the C10-C40 alkyl acrylate polymer may be, for example, TEGO® SP-6 (C10-30 alkyl polyacrylate), TEGO® SP 13-1 (C10-30 alkyl polyacrylate), and / or TEGO® SP 13-6 (C10-30 alkyl polyacrylate). In some embodiments, the C10-C40 alkyl acrylate polymer may be, for example, a modified acrylate homopolymer, such as a modified stearyl or behenyl acrylate homopolymer.
[0022] The C10-C40 alkyl acrylate polymer may be present in an amount not exceeding 10% by weight of the composition. The C10-C40 alkyl acrylate polymer may be present in an amount not exceeding 5% by weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the C10-C40 alkyl acrylate polymer may be present in an amount not exceeding 4% by weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the C10-C40 alkyl acrylate polymer may be present in an amount not exceeding 3% by weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the C10-C40 alkyl acrylate polymer may be present in an amount not exceeding 2.5% by weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the C10-C40 alkyl acrylate polymer may be present in an amount of at least 0.5% by weight of the composition.In some embodiments, the C10-C40 alkyl acrylate polymer may be present in an amount of at least 1% by weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the C10-C40 alkyl acrylate polymer may be present in an amount of at least 1.5% by weight of the composition.
[0023] The cosmetic composition may include an allylic polymer. The term "allylic," as used here, describes an alkenyl group in which a carbon-carbon double bond is linked to a methylene group, and the methylene group represents the point of attachment to the rest of the molecule. Non-limiting examples of al-lylic polymers include allyl stearate / vinyl acetate (VA) copolymer, allyl 2,2-dimethylpentanoate / vinyl laurate, allyl dimethylpropionate / vinyl stearate, and allyl propionate / allyl stearate.
[0024] The allyl polymer may be present in an amount not exceeding 10% in weight of the composition. The allylic polymer may be present in an amount not exceeding 5% by weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the allylic polymer may be present in an amount not exceeding 4% by weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the allylic polymer may be present in an amount not exceeding 3% by weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the allylic polymer may be present in an amount not exceeding 2.5% by weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the allylic polymer may be present in an amount of at least 0.5% by weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the allylic polymer may be present in an amount of at least 1% by weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the allylic polymer may be present in an amount of at least 1.5% by weight of the composition.
[0025] Emulsifying or stabilizing agent.
[0026] The cosmetic composition may include an emulsifying agent or a stabilizer. The emulsifying agent or the stabilizer may be present in a total quantity not exceeding 10% by weight of the composition. The emulsifying agent or the stabilizer may be present in a total quantity not exceeding 8% by weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the emulsifying agent or the stabilizer may be present in a total quantity not exceeding 4.5% by weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the emulsifying agent or the stabilizer may be present in a total quantity not exceeding 4% by weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the emulsifying agent or the stabilizer may be present in a total quantity not exceeding 3.5% by weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the emulsifying agent or the stabilizer may be present in a total quantity of at least 1% by weight of the composition.In some embodiments, the emulsifying agent or stabilizer may be present in a total quantity of at least 1.5% by weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the emulsifying agent or stabilizer may be present in a total quantity of at least 2% by weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the emulsifying agent or stabilizer may be present in a total quantity of at least 2.5% by weight of the composition.
[0027] The emulsifying agent or stabilizer may comprise or consist of a fatty acid ester of a polyol. The fatty acid esters may be esters of isostearic acid and glycerol, such as, for example, polyglyceryl isostearate (4 moles) (INCI name: Polyglyceryl-4 Isostearate) sold under the name Isolan GI34® by Evonik; polyglyceryl dii-sostearate (3 moles) sold under the name Lameform TGI® by BASF; polyglyceryl distearate (2 moles) sold under the name Emalex PGSA® by Nihon Emulsion; polyglyceryl monoisostearate (10 moles) sold under the name Nikkol Decaglyn 1-IS® by Nihon Surfactant (INCI name: Polyglyceryl-10 isostearate) and polyglyceryl-4 / polyhydroxystearate / sebacate diisostearate sold under the name Isolan GPS® by Evonik. In a preferred embodiment, the only emulsifying or stabilizing agent is polyglyceryl-4 / polyhydroxystearate / sebacate diisostearate.
[0028] Polar solvent.
[0029] The composition may include a polar solvent. The polar solvent may be an organic polar solvent. The organic polar solvent may be liquid at room temperature (25 °C) and at least partially miscible with water. Non-limiting examples include alkanols such as ethyl alcohol, isopropyl alcohol, aromatic alcohols such as benzyl alcohol and phenylethyl alcohol, or polyols or polyol ethers, for example ethylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl or monobutyl ether, propylene glycol or its ethers, for example propylene glycol monomethyl ether, butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, and also diethylene glycol alkyl ethers, for example diethylene glycol monoethyl ether or monobutyl ether.
[0030] The polar solvent may include water. In some embodiments, the composition may be water-free. In some embodiments, the composition may be substantially water-free. In some embodiments, water may be present in a total quantity not exceeding 5% by weight of the composition. In some embodiments, water may be present in a total quantity not exceeding 10% by weight of the composition. In some embodiments, water may be present in a total quantity not exceeding 15% by weight of the composition. In some embodiments, water may be present in a total quantity not exceeding 20% by weight of the composition. In some embodiments, water may be present in a total quantity not exceeding 30% by weight of the composition.In some embodiments, water may be present in a total quantity not exceeding 40% by weight of the composition. In some embodiments, water may be present in a total quantity not exceeding 50% by weight of the composition. In some embodiments, water may be present in a total quantity not exceeding 60% by weight of the composition.
[0031] The polar solvent may comprise or consist of a polyol. Non-limiting examples of polyols include ethylene glycol, propylene glycol such as 1,2-propylene glycol and 1,3-propylene glycol, glycerol, pentaerythritol, trimethylpropane, 1,4,6-octanetriol, butanediol, pentanediol, hexanediol, dodecanediol, octanediol, chloropentanediol, glycerol monoallyl ether, glycerol monoethyl ether, diethylene glycol, 2-ethylhexanediol-1,4, cyclohexanediol-1,4, 1,2,6-hexanetriol, neopental glycol, 1,3,5-hexanetriol, 1,3-bis-(2-hydroxyethoxy)propane and similar compounds. In some embodiments, the polyol may comprise or consist of glycerin. The polyol may comprise or consist of glycerin and one or more glyceryl ethers or glyceryl esters. Non-limiting examples of glyceryl ethers include, for example, alkyl glyceryl ethers such as isostearyl glyceryl ether and ethylhexyl glycerin. Non-limiting examples of glyceryl esters include glyceryl esters of mono-fatty acids such as glyceryl caprylate, glyceryl caprate, glyceryl laurate, glyceryl myristate, glyceryl stearate, glyceryl linoleate, glyceryl oleate, glyceryl isostearate, and glyceryl behenate.
[0032] In some embodiments, the polar solvent may be a water-soluble solvent. In some embodiments, the polar solvent may be a water-miscible solvent. In some embodiments, the polar solvent may include both a water-soluble solvent and a water-miscible solvent. As used here, the term "water-soluble solvent" refers to compounds that are liquid at 25 °C and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg), and have a solubility of at least 70% in water under these conditions. In some cases, the water-soluble solvent has a solubility of at least 80%, or at least 90%. As used here, the term "water-miscible solvent" refers to compounds that are liquid at 25 °C and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg), and have a solubility of at least 50% in water under these conditions. In some cases, the water-miscible solvent has a solubility of at least 60% in water under these conditions.
[0033] The polar solvent may be present in a total quantity not exceeding 20% by weight of the composition. The polar solvent may be present in a total quantity not exceeding 15% by weight of the composition. The polar solvent may be present in a total quantity not exceeding 10% by weight of the composition. The polar solvent may be present in a total quantity not exceeding 9% by weight of the composition. The polar solvent may be present in a total quantity not exceeding 8% by weight of the composition. The polar solvent may be present in a total quantity not exceeding 7% by weight of the composition. The polar solvent may be present in a total quantity not exceeding 6% by weight of the composition. The polar solvent may be present in a total quantity of at least 1% by weight of the composition. The polar solvent may be present in a total quantity of at least 2% by weight of the composition.The polar solvent may be present in a total quantity of at least 3% by weight of the composition. The polar solvent may be present in a total quantity of at least 4% by weight of the composition. The polar solvent may be present in a total quantity of at least 5% by weight of the composition.
[0034] Fatty substances.
[0035] The composition may include one or more fatty substances. The one or more Fatty substances may include a hydrocarbon other than a hydrocarbon-based resin. Fatty substances may include an emollient. Non-limiting examples of such emollients include, for example, squalene, vegetable oils, esters such as hydrocarbon esters, adipate esters, aromatic esters, pentaerythritol esters, dilinoleate ester dimers, fatty acid triglycerides, or combinations thereof.
[0036] The fatty substance(s) may be present in a total quantity of at least 30% by weight of the cosmetic composition. The fatty substance(s) may be present in a total quantity of at least 35% by weight of the cosmetic composition. The fatty substance(s) may be present in a total quantity of at least 40% by weight of the cosmetic composition. The fatty substance(s) may be present in a total quantity of at least 45% by weight of the cosmetic composition. The fatty substance(s) may be present in a total quantity of at least 50% by weight of the cosmetic composition. The fatty substance(s) may be present in a total quantity of at least 55% by weight of the cosmetic composition. The fatty substance(s) may be present in a total quantity of at least 60% by weight of the cosmetic composition.The fatty substance(s) may be present in a total quantity of at least 65% by weight of the cosmetic composition. The fatty substance(s) may be present in a total quantity of at least 70% by weight of the cosmetic composition. The fatty substance(s) may be present in a total quantity not exceeding 90% by weight of the cosmetic composition. The fatty substance(s) may be present in a total quantity not exceeding 85% by weight of the cosmetic composition. The fatty substance(s) may be present in a total quantity not exceeding 80% by weight of the cosmetic composition. The fatty substance(s) may be present in a total quantity not exceeding 75% by weight of the cosmetic composition.
[0037] Glycerol and / or polyglycerol fatty acid esters.
[0038] The fatty substance may include one or more fatty acid esters of glycerol or polyglycerol. The fatty acid ester(s) of polyglycerol may be esters resulting from the reaction of polyglycerol comprising 2 to 12 glycerol units, preferably 3 to 10 glycerol units, and at least one fatty acid containing 8 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 22 carbon atoms, more preferably 10 to 20 carbon atoms, and even more preferably 10 to 18 carbon atoms. The fatty acids may include 8 to 24 carbon atoms, which may be linear or branched, and saturated or unsaturated. The fatty acids may be oleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, lauric acid, palmitic acid, myristic acid, linoleic acid, capric acid and caprylic acid, and / or mixtures thereof.
[0039] Polyglycerol fatty acid esters may be monoesters, diesters, triesters, tetraesters, polyesters, and / or mixtures thereof. The esters may have a low degree of esterification, for example, polyglycerol fatty acid monoesters, diesters, or triesters, or a mixture thereof. The polyglycerol fatty acid ester may be in the form of a mixture of esters with a low degree of esterification, for example, a mixture of monoester and diester or a mixture of monoester, diester, and triester.
[0040] Non-limiting examples of fatty acid esters of glycerol or polyglycerol include: polyglyceryl-2 distearate; polyglyceryl-10 decastearate; glyceryl oleate; glyceryl stearate; polyglyceryl-5 hexastearate; polyglyceryl-10 pentaoleate; polyglyceryl-10 pentastearate; glyceryl caprylate / caprate; polyglyceryl-10 heptaoleate; polyglyceryl-4 isostearate; diisostearoyl polyglyceryl-3 dilinoleate dimer; glyceryl laurate; polyglyceryl-5 trioleate; polyglyceryl-2 oleate; polyglyceryl-5 trimyristate; polyglyceryl-2 caprylate; and / or polyglyceryl-2 laurate.
[0041] In some embodiments, the fatty acid ester(s) of glycerol or polyglycerol may be present in a total amount not exceeding approximately 5% by weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the fatty acid ester(s) of glycerol or polyglycerol may be present in a total amount not exceeding approximately 4% by weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the fatty acid ester(s) of glycerol or polyglycerol may be present in a total amount not exceeding approximately 3% by weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the fatty acid ester(s) of glycerol or polyglycerol may be present in a total amount not exceeding approximately 2% by weight of the composition.In some embodiments, the fatty acid ester(s) of glycerol or polyglycerol may be present in a total amount not exceeding approximately 1% by weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the composition may be substantially free of fatty acid ester(s) of glycerol or polyglycerol.
[0042] Dilinoleate ester dimer.
[0043] In some embodiments, the fatty substances may include a dilinoleate ester dimer. Non-limiting examples of such dilinoleate ester dimers include: dilinoleate dimer of dilinoleyl bis-behenyl / isostearyl / phytosteryl dimer; dilinoleate phytosteryl isostearyl dimer; dilinoleate phytosteryl dilinoleate / isostearyl cetyl / stearyl / behenyl dimer; and / or dilinoleate diisostearoyl polyglyceryl-3 dimer.
[0044] In certain embodiments, the dilinoleate ester dimer(s) may be present in a total amount not exceeding approximately 30% by weight of The composition. In some embodiments, the dilinoleate ester dimer(s) may be present in a total amount not exceeding approximately 25% by weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the dilinoleate ester dimer(s) may be present in a total amount not exceeding approximately 20% by weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the dilinoleate ester dimer(s) may be present in a total amount of at least 5% by weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the dilinoleate ester dimer(s) may be present in a total amount of at least 10% by weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the dilinoleate ester dimer(s) may be present in a total amount of at least 15% by weight of the composition.In some embodiments, the composition may be free or substantially free of dilinoleate ester dimer(s).
[0045] In a preferred embodiment, the fatty substance(s) include diisostearoyl polyglyceryl-3 dimer dilinoleate and bis-behenyl / isostearyl / phytosteryl dimer dilinoleate dimer.
[0046] Triesters containing at least 35 carbon atoms.
[0047] The fatty substance(s) may include a triester containing at least 35 carbon atoms, such as between 35 and 70 carbon atoms in total. Non-limiting examples of such triesters include tricarboxylic acid triesters, such as triisostearyl citrate or tridecyl trimellitate, or glycol triesters of monocarboxylic acids such as polyglyceryl-2 triisostearate. In a preferred embodiment, the triester is tridecyl trimellitate.
[0048] In some embodiments, the triester(s) may be present in a total quantity not exceeding approximately 30% by weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the triester(s) may be present in a total quantity not exceeding approximately 25% by weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the triester(s) may be present in a total quantity not exceeding approximately 20% by weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the triester(s) may be present in a total quantity of at least 5% by weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the triester(s) may be present in a total quantity of at least 10% by weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the triester(s) may be present in a total quantity of at least 15% by weight of the composition.In some embodiments, the composition may be free or substantially free of triester(s).
[0049] Linear or branched hydrocarbons with more than 16 carbon atoms.
[0050] The fatty substance(s) may include linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral, animal or synthetic origin with more than 16 carbon atoms. Non-limiting examples include liquid paraffins, petroleum jelly, poly-lydecenes, polybutene, hydrogenated polyisobutene and squalane.
[0051] In certain embodiments, the linear or branched hydrocarbon(s) may be present in a total quantity not exceeding approximately 40% by weight of the composition. In certain embodiments, the linear or branched hydrocarbon(s) may be present in a total quantity not exceeding approximately 35% by weight of the composition. In certain embodiments, the linear or branched hydrocarbon(s) may be present in a total quantity not exceeding approximately 30% by weight of the composition. In certain embodiments, the linear or branched hydrocarbon(s) may be present in a total quantity of at least 5% by weight of the composition. In certain embodiments, the linear or branched hydrocarbon(s) may be present in a total quantity of at least 10% by weight of the composition.In some embodiments, the linear or branched hydrocarbon(s) may be present in a total quantity of at least 15% by weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the linear or branched hydrocarbon(s) may be present in a total quantity of at least 20% by weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the linear or branched hydrocarbon(s) may be present in a total quantity of at least 25% by weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the composition may be free or substantially free of linear or branched hydrocarbon(s).
[0052] In some embodiments, the composition may include polybutene in an amount of approximately 5% to approximately 20% by weight of the composition. In some embodiments, polybutene may be present in a total amount of at least 4%. In some embodiments, polybutene may be present in a total amount of at least 5%. In some embodiments, polybutene may be present in a total amount of at least 6%. In some embodiments, polybutene may be present in a total amount of at least 7%. In some embodiments, polybutene may be present in a total amount of at least 8%. In some embodiments, polybutene may be present in a total amount of at least 9%. In some embodiments, polybutene may be present in a total amount of at least 10%.In some embodiments, polybutene may be present in a total quantity not exceeding 20%. In some embodiments, polybutene may be present in a total quantity not exceeding 19%. In some embodiments, polybutene may be present in a total quantity not exceeding 18%. In some embodiments, the po- . Lybutene may be present in a total quantity not exceeding 17%. In some embodiments, polybutene may be present in a total quantity not exceeding 16%. In some embodiments, polybutene may be present in a total quantity not exceeding 15%.
[0053] Triglycerides of saturated or unsaturated fatty acids in Cs-C2o-
[0054] The fatty substance(s) may include a triglyceride of a saturated or unsaturated C8-C2o- fatty acid. Non-limiting examples include caprylic / capric triglyceride, glyceryl triheptanoate, glyceryl trioctanoate or glyceryl triisostearate.
[0055] In some embodiments, the triglyceride(s) may be present in a total amount not exceeding approximately 5% by weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the triglyceride(s) may be present in a total amount not exceeding approximately 4% by weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the triglyceride(s) may be present in a total amount not exceeding approximately 3% by weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the triglyceride(s) may be present in a total amount not exceeding approximately 2% by weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the triglyceride(s) may be present in a total amount not exceeding approximately 1% by weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the composition may be substantially free of triglyceride(s).In some embodiments, the composition may be free or substantially free of triglyceride(s).
[0056] Oils of vegetable origin.
[0057] The fatty substance(s) may include an oil of vegetable origin. Non-limiting examples include Zea mays (corn) oil, Brassica campestris (rapeseed) seed oil, Butyrospermum parkii (shea) butter, Prunus amygdalus dulcis (sweet almond) oil, Prunus armeniaca (apricot) kernel oil, Helianthus annuus (sunflower) seed oil, Calophyllum oil, palm oil, Ricinus communis (castor) oil, Elaeis guineensis (palm) oil, avocado oil, Simmondsia chinensis (jojoba) seed oil, Olea europaea (olive) oil, Cocos nucifera (coconut) oil, cereal germ oil, caprylic / capric triglyceride, Sesamum indicum (sesame) seed oil, Triticum vulgare (wheat) germ oil, and kernel oil. Argania spinose, Glycine soja (soybean) oil, canola oil, Oryza sativa (rice) bran oil, Limnanthes alba (meadowfoam) seed oil, and combinations thereof.
[0058] In certain embodiments, the vegetable oil(s) may be present in a total quantity not exceeding approximately 2% by weight of the composition. In certain embodiments, the vegetable oil(s) may be present in a total quantity not exceeding approximately 1.5% by weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the vegetable oil(s) may be present in a total quantity not exceeding approximately 1% by weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the vegetable oil(s) may be present in a total quantity not exceeding approximately 0.5% by weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the composition may be substantially free of vegetable oil(s).
[0059] Monoesters of monoalcohols.
[0060] The fatty substance(s) may include a monoester of a monoalcohol. Non-limiting examples include dihydroabietyl behenate; octyldodecyl behenate; isocetyl behenate; isostearyl lactate; lauryl lactate; linoleyl lactate; oleyl lactate; isostearyl octanoate; isocetyl octanoate; octyl octanoate; decyl oleate; isocetyl isostearate; isocetyl laurate; isocetyl stearate; isodecyl octanoate; isodecyl oleate; isononyl isononanoate; isostearyl palmitate; methyl acetyl ricinoleate; octyl isononanoate; 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate; octyldodecyl erucate; oleyl erucate; ethyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate; 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate; alkyl myristates such as isopropyl 2-octyldodecyl myristate, isobutyl stearate; 2-hexyldecyl laurate and mixtures thereof.
[0061] In some embodiments, the monoester(s) may be present in a total quantity not exceeding approximately 10% by weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the monoester(s) may be present in a total quantity not exceeding approximately 8% by weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the monoester(s) may be present in a total quantity not exceeding approximately 6% by weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the monoester(s) may be present in a total quantity not exceeding approximately 1% by weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the monoester(s) may be present in a total quantity of at least approximately 3% by weight of the composition.In some embodiments, the monoester(s) may be present in a total quantity that is at least approximately 5% by weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the composition may be free or substantially free of monoester(s).
[0062] Pentaerythritol esters.
[0063] The fatty substance(s) may include a pentaerythritol ester, such as pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate.
[0064] In certain embodiments, the pentaerythritol ester(s) may be present in a total amount not exceeding approximately 10% by weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the pentaerythritol ester(s) may be present in a total amount not exceeding approximately 8% by weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the pentaerythritol ester(s) may be present in a total amount not exceeding approximately 6% by weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the pentaerythritol ester(s) may be present in a total amount of at least approximately 1% by weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the pentaerythritol ester(s) may be present in a total amount of at least approximately 2% by weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the pentaerythritol ester(s) may be present in a total amount of at least approximately 3% by weight of the composition.In some embodiments, the pentaerythritol ester(s) may be present in a total amount of at least approximately 4% by weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the composition may be free or substantially free of pentaerythritol esters.
[0065] Alkylene carbonate.
[0066] The fatty substance(s) may include an alkylene carbonate. Non-limiting examples include C4-C6 cyclic carbonates, particularly selected from the group consisting of propylene carbonate, dipropylene carbonate, butylene carbonate, 2,3-butylene carbonate, 2,3-pentylene carbonate, pentylene carbonate, and ethylene carbonate. Preferably, at least one C4-C6 cyclic carbonate is propylene carbonate.
[0067] In some embodiments, the alkylene carbonate(s) may be present in a total amount not exceeding approximately 2% by weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the alkylene carbonate(s) may be present in a total amount not exceeding approximately 1.5% by weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the alkylene carbonate(s) may be present in a total amount not exceeding approximately 1% by weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the alkylene carbonate(s) may be present in a total amount not exceeding approximately 0.5% by weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the composition may be free or substantially free of alkylene carbonate(s).
[0068] Polymeric elastomer.
[0069] The composition may include a polymeric elastomer.
[0070] The polymeric elastomer may be a styrene block copolymer elastomer.
[0071] The styrene block copolymers of the present invention are characterized by the presence of at least one "hard" segment and at least one "soft" segment. In addition to their compositional nature, the hard and soft segments of the block copolymers of the The components of the present invention are defined in terms of their respective glass transition temperatures, Tg. The hard segment can have a Tg of 50 °C or more, while the soft segment can have a Tg of 20 °C or less. The Tg for the hard block can range from 50 °C to 150 °C. The Tg for the soft block can range from -150 °C to 20 °C.
[0072] The block copolymers useful in the compositions of the present invention may be thermoplastic elastomers. The hard segments of the thermoplastic elastomer typically comprise vinyl monomers in varying amounts. Examples of suitable vinyl monomers include, but are not limited to, styrene and other optional monomers, including methacrylate, acrylate, vinyl ester, vinyl ether, vinyl acetate, and the like. At least one hard segment must include styrene.
[0073] The soft segments of the thermoplastic elastomer typically comprise olefin polymers and / or copolymers, which may be saturated, unsaturated, or combinations thereof. Suitable olefin copolymers may include, but are not limited to, ethylene / propylene copolymers, ethylene / butylene copolymers, propylene / butylene copolymers, polybutylene, polyisoprene, hydrogenated butane and isoprene polymers, and mixtures thereof.
[0074] Thermoplastic elastomers useful in the present invention include block copolymers, for example, diblock, triblock, multiblock copolymers, star and radial block polymers, and mixtures thereof. A diblock thermoplastic elastomer is usually defined as an AB type or a hard segment (A) followed by a soft segment (B) in sequence. A triblock polymer is usually defined as an ABA type copolymer or a ratio of one hard segment, one soft segment, and one hard segment. Multiblock, star block, or radial thermoplastic elastomers usually contain any combination of hard and soft segments, provided that the elastomers possess both hard and soft characteristics.
[0075] In certain embodiments, the thermoplastic elastomer of the present invention may be selected from the class of KRATON rubbers (Kraton Corporation of Houston, Texas) or from similar thermoplastic elastomers. KRATON rubbers are thermoplastic elastomers in which the polymer chains comprise a diblock, triblock, multiblock, radial block, or star configuration, or any number of mixtures thereof. KRATON triblock rubbers have polystyrene (hard) segments at each end of a rubber (soft) segment, while KRATON diblock rubbers have a polystyrene (hard) segment attached to a rubber (soft) segment. The KRATON radial or star configuration may be a four-pointed star or another multi-pointed rubber star with a polystyrene segment attached to each end of a rubber segment. The configuration of each of the KRATON rubbers forms distinct areas of polystyrene and rubber.
[0076] Each KRATON rubber molecule is intended to comprise block segments of styrene monomer motifs and rubber monomer and / or comonomer motifs. The most common structure for the KRATON triblock copolymer is of the linear ABA block type: styrene-butadiene-styrene, styrene-isoprene-styrene, styrene-ethylenepropylene-styrene, or styrene-ethylene-butylene-styrene. The KRATON diblock is preferably of the AB block type, such as styrene-ethylene-propylene, styrene-ethylene-butylene, styrene-butadiene, or styrene-isoprene. The KRATON rubber configuration is well known in the art, and any block copolymer elastomer having a similar configuration is within the scope of the invention. Other block copolymers are sold under the trade name Septon (which represent the elastomers known as SEEPS, sold by Kurary, Co., Ltd) and those sold by ExxonMobil Chemical under the trade name VECTOR.
[0077] Other thermoplastic elastomers useful in the present invention include block copolymer elastomers comprising a styrene-butylene / ethylene-styrene (triblock) copolymer, an ethylene / propylene-styrene (radial or star) copolymer, or a mixture of the two. (Some manufacturers refer to block copolymers as hydrogenated block copolymers, for example, hydrogenated styrene-butylene / ethylene-styrene (triblock) copolymer.)
[0078] The compositions may include at least one block copolymer, for example, diblock, triblock, multiblock or radial block copolymers, and mixtures thereof. The at least one block copolymer may include at least one styrene block and may further include at least one block comprising motifs selected from butadiene, ethylene, propylene, butylene and isoprene or a mixture thereof.
[0079] Diblock copolymers that may be mentioned include, but are not limited to, styrene / ethylene-propylene copolymers (comprising a styrene block and a block obtained from ethylene and propylene), styrene / ethylene-butylene copolymers, styrene-ethylene / butadiene copolymers, styrene / butadiene copolymers and styrene / isoprene copolymers.
[0080] In some notable embodiments, the block copolymer includes styrene blocks and one or more blocks selected from: butadiene blocks, isoprene blocks, and ethylene-butylene blocks. In other embodiments, the block copolymer includes (1) styrene blocks and butadiene blocks; or (2) styrene and ethylene-butadiene blocks; or (3) styrene and isoprene blocks.
[0081] Triblock copolymers that may be mentioned include, but are not limited to, styrene / ethylene-propylene / styrene copolymers, styrene / ethylene-butylene / styrene copolymers, styrene / ethylene-butadiene / styrene copolymers, co styrene / isoprene / styrene polymers and styrene / butadiene / styrene copolymers.
[0082] In some embodiments, the composition may include a mixture of a diblock copolymer and a triblock copolymer. According to at least one embodiment, the diblock copolymer and the triblock copolymer may be selected from block copolymers comprising at least one styrene block and at least one block comprising motifs selected from butadiene, ethylene, propylene, butylene, and isoprene. In one embodiment, the block copolymer has from approximately 50% to approximately 90% triblock and from approximately 10% to approximately 50% diblock.
[0083] In some embodiments, the composition may include a butylene / ethylene / styrene copolymer or an ethylene / propylene / styrene copolymer. In some embodiments, the composition may include both a butylene / ethylene / styrene copolymer and an ethylene / propylene / styrene copolymer.
[0084] The polymeric elastomer may be a silicone elastomer.
[0085] The silicone elastomer may be a non-emulsifying silicone elastomer. The term "non-emulsifying" defines organopolysiloxane elastomers that do not contain hydrophilic chains, and in particular do not contain polyoxyalkylene units (especially polyoxyethylene or polyoxypropylene) or polyglyceryl units. Thus, according to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises an organopolysiloxane elastomer free of polyoxyalkylene and polyglyceryl units.
[0086] Non-limiting examples of silicone elastomer include Dimethicone Crosspolymer (INCI name), Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer (INCI name), Di-methicone / Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer (INCI name), Dimethicone Crosspolymer-3 (INCI name).
[0087] The silicone elastomer may be a self-emulsifying silicone elastomer. Non-limiting examples of self-emulsifying silicone elastomers include, but are not limited to, dimethicone / substituted or unsubstituted copolyol crosslinked polymer, dimethicone (and) dimethicone / vinyldimethicone crosslinked polymer, dimethicone and dimethicone / PEG-10 / 15 crosslinked polymers, dimethicone / substituted or unsubstituted polyglycerol crosslinked polymer, and dimethicone and dimethicone / polyglycerin-3 crosslinked polymer.
[0088] The polymeric elastomer may be present in a total quantity not exceeding 3% by weight of the composition. The polymeric elastomer may be present in a total quantity not exceeding 2% by weight of the composition. The polymeric elastomer may be present in a total quantity not exceeding 1% by weight of the composition. The polymeric elastomer may be present in a total quantity not exceeding 0.5% by weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the composition may be free or substantially free of block copolymers. Styrene. In some embodiments, the composition may be free or substantially free of non-emulsifying silicone elastomers. In some embodiments, the composition may be free or substantially free of self-emulsifying silicone elastomers.
[0089] Dispersing agent.
[0090] The composition may include a dispersing agent. The dispersing agent serves to protect the dispersed particles from agglomeration or flocculation. The dispersing agent may bind physically or chemically to the surface of the pigments. These dispersants may also contain at least one functional group that is compatible with the continuous medium or soluble in it. In particular, 12-hydroxystearic acid esters and especially O8-O20 fatty acid esters of polyols such as glycerol or diglycerol may be used, such as poly(12-hydroxystearic acid) stearate with a molecular weight of about 750 g / mol, such as the product sold under the name Solsperse 21 000 by Avecia, polyglyceryl-2 dipolyhydroxystearate (name CTFA) sold under the reference Dehymyls PGPH by Henkel, or polyhydroxystearic acid such as the product sold under the reference Arlacel P100 by Uniqema, and mixtures thereof.
[0091] The dispersing agent may be present in a total quantity not exceeding 10% by weight of the composition. The dispersing agent may be present in a total quantity not exceeding 9% by weight of the composition. The dispersing agent may be present in a total quantity not exceeding 8% by weight of the composition. The dispersing agent may be present in a total quantity not exceeding 7% by weight of the composition. The dispersing agent may be present in a total quantity not exceeding 6% by weight of the composition. The dispersing agent may be present in a total quantity of at least 1% by weight of the composition. The dispersing agent may be present in a total quantity of at least 2% by weight of the composition. The dispersing agent may be present in a total quantity of at least 3% by weight of the composition. The dispersing agent may be present in a total quantity of at least 4% by weight of the composition.The dispersing agent may be present in a total quantity of at least 5% by weight of the composition.
[0092] Hydrocarbon-based resin.
[0093] The composition may include a hydrocarbon-based resin. The hydrocarbon-based resin may be a hydrocarbon-based film-forming agent.
[0094] The composition according to the invention may include at least one hydrocarbon-based resin with a number-average molecular weight less than or equal to 10,000 g / mol. The number-average molecular weight may range from 250 g / mol to 10,000 g / mol, preferably from 250 g / mol to 5,000 g / mol, more preferably from 250 g / mol to 2,000 g / mol, or even from 250 g / mol to 1,000 g / mol. The molecular weights Number means (Mn) can be determined by gel permeation liquid chromatography (THF solvent, calibration curve established with linear polystyrene standards, refractometric detector).
[0095] The softening point of the resin ranges from 70 to 130 °C, more particularly from 80 to 120 °C and preferably from 90 to 110 °C (ASTM E 28 standard).
[0096] The hydrocarbon-based resin may be an aliphatic hydrocarbon-based resin. Non-limiting examples of aliphatic hydrocarbon-based resins include:
[0097] hydrogenated indene / methylstyrene / styrene copolymers, for example sold under the name Regalite by Eastman Chemical, in particular Regalite R1090, Regalite RI 100, Regalite S1100 and Regalite S5100, or under the name Arkon P-90, Arkon P-100 and Arkon Pl 15 by Arakawa;
[0098] aliphatic pentanediene resins, in particular those derived from the major polymerization of the 1,3-pentanediene monomer (trans- or cis-piperidene) and minor monomers selected from isoprene, butene, 2-methyl-2-butene, pentene and 1,4-pentanediene, and mixtures thereof. These resins may have a molecular weight ranging from 1000 to 2500 g / mol. These 1,3-pentanediene resins are sold, for example, under the references Piccotac 95 by Eastman Chemical, Escorez 1102, Escorez 1304, Escorez 1310LC and Escorez 1315 by Exxon Chemicals, or Wingtack 95 by Cray Valley;
[0099] cyclopentanediene dimer diene resins, for example those derived from the polymerization of dicyclopentanediene, methyldicyclopentanediene and other pentanediene dimers, and mixtures thereof. These resins generally have a molecular weight ranging from 500 to 800 g / mol, for example those sold under the reference Escorez 5380, Escorez 5300, Escorez 5400, Escorez 5415 or Escorez 5490 by ExxonMobil Chem., and the resins Sukorez SU-90, Sukorez SU-100, Sukorez SU-110, Sukorez SU-100S, Sukorez SU-200, Sukorez SU-210, Sukorez SU-490 and Sukorez SU-400, by Kolon;
[0100] hydrogenated resins derived from the polymerization of pentanediene, such as, among others, those sold under the name Eastotac H-100E, Eastotac H-115E, Eastotac C-100L, Eastotac C-115L, Eastotac H-100L, Eastotac H-115L, Eastotac C-100R, Eastotac C-115R, Eastotac H-100R, Eastotac H-115R, Eastotac C-100W, Eastotac C-115W, Eastotac H-100W and Eastotac Hl 15W, by the Eastman Chemical Co.;
[0101] and mixtures thereof.
[0102] Such a resin may be the indene / methylstyrene / hydrogenated styrene copolymer sold in particular under the name of Regalite® RI 110 resin by Eastman Chemical, or the 1,3-pentanediene aliphatic resin sold under the name of Piccotac® 1095 resin by Eastman Chemical.
[0103] Preferably, the resin content according to the present invention is from 2% to 20% by weight, more particularly from 2% to 18% by weight and preferably from 3% to 16% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0104] The hydrocarbon-based resin may be present in a total quantity not exceeding 6% by weight of the composition. The hydrocarbon-based resin may be present in a total quantity not exceeding 5% by weight of the composition. The hydrocarbon-based resin may be present in a total quantity not exceeding 4% by weight of the composition. The hydrocarbon-based resin may be present in a total quantity of at least 1% by weight of the composition. The hydrocarbon-based resin may be present in a total quantity of at least 2% by weight of the composition. The hydrocarbon-based resin may be present in a total quantity of at least 3% by weight of the composition.
[0105] Polyolefin.
[0106] The composition may include a polyolefin. The polyolefin may be a polyolefin wax. As used here, the term "wax" is intended to refer to lipophilic compounds that are solid at room temperature (20 °C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg), with a reversible solid / liquid phase change, and that have a melting point of 40 °C or higher, which may be up to 120 °C. In some embodiments, polyolefin waxes may have a melting point of at least about 80 °C. Polyolefin waxes may be, for example, homopolymers or copolymers of ethylene, propene, or butene, or even longer-chain α-olefins. In some embodiments, the polyolefin is polyethylene.
[0107] The polyolefin may be present in a total quantity not exceeding 5% by weight of the composition. The polyolefin may be present in a total quantity not exceeding 3% by weight of the composition. The polyolefin may be present in a total quantity not exceeding 2% by weight of the composition. The polyolefin may be present in a total quantity not exceeding 1.5% by weight of the composition. The polyolefin may be present in a total quantity not exceeding 1% by weight of the composition. The polyolefin may be present in a total quantity of at least 0.1% by weight of the composition. The polyolefin may be present in a total quantity of at least 0.25% by weight of the composition. The polyolefin may be present in a total quantity of at least 0.5% by weight of the composition.
[0108] Dye.
[0109] The composition may include a colorant. In some embodiments, the colorant may be a pigment, a pearlescent agent, a goniochromatic pigment, a dye, or a combination thereof. In some embodiments, the com position may advantageously include at least one colorant chosen from pigments and / or pearlescent agents.
[0110] In some embodiments, the composition may include a total amount of colorant not exceeding 15% by weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the composition may include a total amount of colorant not exceeding 12.5% by weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the composition may include a total amount of colorant not exceeding 10% by weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the composition may include a total amount of colorant not exceeding 7.5% by weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the composition may include a total amount of colorant not exceeding 5% by weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the composition may include a total amount of colorant not exceeding 4% by weight of the composition.In some embodiments, the composition may include a total amount of colorant not exceeding 3% by weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the composition may include a total amount of colorant not exceeding 2% by weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the composition may include a total amount of colorant not exceeding 1% by weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the composition may be substantially free of colorant. [YES] Pigments.
[0112] As used herein, the term “pigment” means white or coloured and inorganic (mineral) or organic particles which are insoluble in the lipophilic phase(s) and which are intended to colour and / or opacify the composition and / or the deposited layer produced with the composition.
[0113] The pigments can be chosen from mineral pigments, organic pigments and composite pigments (i.e., pigments based on mineral and / or organic materials).
[0114] The pigments can be chosen from mineral pigments, in particular monochromatic pigments, organic lakes, pearlescent agents and goniochromatic pigments.
[0115] Mineral pigments can be selected from metal oxide pigments, chromium oxides, iron oxides (black, yellow, red), titanium dioxide, zinc oxides, cerium oxides, zirconium oxides, chromium hydrate, manganese violet, Prussian blue, ultramarine blue, ferric blue, metal powders such as aluminum powders and copper powder, and mixtures thereof.
[0116] Organic lakes are organic pigments, formed from a dye fixed to a substrate. Lakes, which are also known as organic pigments, can be selected from the materials listed below and mixtures thereof:
[0117] cochineal carmine;
[0118] organic pigments of azo dyes, anthraquinone dyes, indigoid dyes, xanthene dyes, pyrene dyes, quinoline dyes, triphenylmethane dyes or fluorane dyes.
[0119] On peut en particulier citer, parmi les pigments organiques, ceux connus sous les noms suivants : D&C Blue No. 4, D&C Brown No. 1, D&C Green No. 5, D&C Green No. 6, D&C Orange No. 4, D&C Orange No. 5, D&C Orange No. 10, D&C Orange No. 11, D&C Red No. 6, D&C Red No. 7, D&C Red No. 17, D&C Red No. 21, D&C Red No. 22, D&C Red No. 27, D&C Red No. 28, D&C Red No. 30, D&C Red No. 31, D&C Red No. 33, D&C Red No. 34, D&C Red No. 36, D&C violet no 2, D&C Yellow No. 7, D&C Yellow No. 8, D&C Yellow No. 10, D&C Yellow No. 11, FD&C Blue No. 1, FD&C Green No. 3, FD&C Red No. 40, FD&C Yellow No. 5 ou FD&C Yellow No. 6 ;
[0120] Organic lakes may be insoluble salts of sodium, potassium, calcium, barium, aluminum, zirconium, strontium or titanium of acid dyes, such as azo dyes, anthraquinone, indigoids, xanthene, pyrene, quinoline, triphenylmethane or fluorane, these dyes possibly comprising at least one carboxylic or sulfonic acid group.
[0121] Organic lacquers can also be supported by an organic carrier, such as rosin or aluminium benzoate, for example.
[0122] Among organic lakes, particular mention may be made of those known by the following names: D&C Red No. 2 Aluminum Lake, D&C Red No. 3 Aluminum Lake, D&C Red No. 4 Aluminum Lake, D&C Red No. 6 Aluminum Lake, D&C Red No. 6 Barium Lake, D&C Red No. 6 Barium / Strontium Lake, D&C Red No. 6 Strontium Lake, D&C Red No. 6 Potassium Lake, D&C Red No. 6 Aluminum Lake, D&C Red No. 7 Barium Lake, D&C Red No. 7 Calcium Lake, D&C Red No. 7 Calcium / Strontium Lake, D&C Red No. 7 Zirconium Lake, D&C Red No. 8 Sodium Lake, D&C Red No. 9 Aluminum Lake, D&C Red No. 9 Barium Lake, D&C Red No. 9 Barium / Strontium Lake, D&C Red No. 9 Zirconium Lake, D&C Red No. 10 Sodium Lake, D&C Red No. 19 Aluminum Lake, D&C Red No. 19 Barium Lake, D&C Red No. 19 Zirconium Lake, D&C Aluminum Lake Red No. 21, D&C Red No. 21 zirconium lacquer, D&C Red No. 22 aluminum lacquer, D&C Red No. aluminum lacquer27, D&C Red No. 27 aluminum / titanium / zirconium lacquer, D&C Red No. 27 barium lacquer, D&C Red No. 27 calcium lacquer, D&C Red No. 27 zirconium lacquer, D&C Red No. 28 aluminum lacquer, D&C Red No. 30 lacquer, D&C Red No. 31 calcium lacquer, D&C Red No. 33 aluminum lacquer, D&C Red No. 34 calcium lacquer, D&C Red No. 36 lacquer, D&C Red No. 40 aluminum lacquer, D&C aluminum lacquer. Blue No. 1, D&C Green No. 3 aluminum lake, D&C Orange No. 4 aluminum lake, D&C Orange No. 5 aluminum lake, D&C Orange No. 5 zirconium lake, D&C Orange No. 10 aluminum lake, D&C Orange No. 17 barium lake, D&C Yellow No. 5 aluminum lake, zirconium lake D&C Yellow No. 5, D&C Yellow No. 6 aluminum lacquer, D&C Yellow No. 7 zirconium lacquer, D&C Yellow No. 10 aluminum lacquer, FD&C Blue No. 1 aluminum lacquer, FD&C Red No. 4 aluminum lacquer, FD&C Red No. 40 aluminum lacquer, FD&C Yellow No. 5 aluminum lacquer or lacquer FD&C Yellow No. 6 aluminum.
[0123] Fat-soluble dyes may also be cited, such as, for example, Sudan red, DC Red 17, DC Green 6, [3-carotene, soybean oil, Sudan brown, DC Yellow 11, DC Violet 2, DC Orange 5 or quinoline yellow.
[0124] The chemical substances corresponding to each of the organic colorants mentioned above are listed in the publication "International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook", 1997 edition, pages 371 to 386 and 524 to 528, published by The Cosmetic, Toiletries and Fragrance Association.
[0125] The pigments may also have been subjected to a hydrophobic treatment.
[0126] Non-limiting examples of hydrophobic treatment agents include, for example, silicones, such as methicones, dimethicones, alkoxysilanes and perfluoroalkylsilanes; fatty acids, such as stearic acid; metallic soaps, such as aluminum dimyristate, aluminum salt of hydrogenated tallow glutamate, perfluoroalkyl phosphates, perfluoroalkylsilanes, perfluoroalkylsilazanes, poly(hexafluoropropylene oxides), polyorganosiloxanes comprising perfluoroalkyl perfluoropolyether groups and amino acids; N-acylated amino acids or their salts; lecithin, isopropyl and triisostearyl titanate and mixtures thereof.
[0127] N-acylated amino acids may comprise an acyl group having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, such as, for example, a 2-ethylhexanoyl, caproyl, lauroyl, myristoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl, or cocoyl group. The salts of these compounds may be aluminum, magnesium, calcium, zirconium, zinc, sodium, or potassium salts. The amino acid may, for example, be lysine, glutamic acid, or alanine.
[0128] The term "alkyl" cited in the aforementioned compounds refers in particular to an alkyl group having from 1 to 30 carbon atoms and preferably having from 5 to 16 carbon atoms.
[0129] Hydrophobic treated pigments are described in particular in Application EP-Al 086 683.
[0130] Pearly agents.
[0131] As used herein, the expression "beading agent" refers to particles colored of any shape, which are iridescent or not, and which can be of natural or synthetic origin, and which exhibit a color effect by optical interference.
[0132] Examples of pearlescent agents include pearlescent pigments such as titanium oxide coated mica coated with iron oxide, bismuth oxychloride coated mica, titanium oxide coated mica coated with chromium oxide, titanium oxide coated mica with an organic dye, in particular of the type mentioned above, and also bismuth oxychloride-based pearlescent pigments.
[0133] It may also consist of mica particles on the surface of which are superimposed at least two successive layers of metal oxides and / or organic dyes.
[0134] Pearlescent agents may more particularly have a yellow, pink, red, bronze, orange, brown, gold and / or copper colour or reflection.
[0135] Examples of pearlescent agents that can be presented as interference pigments in the first composition include gold-colored pearlescent agents sold in particular by BASF under the names Brilliant Gold 212G (TIMICA® pigment), Gold 222C (CLOISONNÉ® pigment), Sparkle Gold (TIMICA® pigment) and Monarch Gold 233X (CLOISONNÉ® pigment); bronze pearlescent agents sold in particular by Merck under the names Bronze Fine (17384) (COLORONA® pigment) and Bronze (17353) (COLORONA® pigment) and by BASF under the name Super Bronze (CLOISONNÉ® pigment); orange pearlescent agents sold in particular by BASF under the name Orange 363C (CLOISONNÉ® pigment) and by Merck under the names Passion Orange (COLORONA® pigment) and Matte Orange (17449) (MICRONA® pigment); brown pearlescent agents sold in particular by BASF under the names Nu-Antique Copper 340XB (CLOISONNÉ® pigment) and Brown CL4509 (CHROMA-LITE® pigment);pearlescent agents with a coppery sheen, sold in particular by BASF under the name Copper 340A (TIMICA® pigment); pearlescent agents with a red sheen, sold in particular by Merck under the name Sienna Fine (17386) (COLORONA® pigment); pearlescent agents with a yellow sheen, sold in particular by BASF under the name Yellow (4502) (CHROMA-LITE® pigment); red pearlescent agents with a golden sheen, sold in particular by BASF under the name Sunstone G012 (Gemtone pigment); pink pearlescent agents, sold in particular by BASF under the name Tan Opale G005 (GEMTONE® pigment); black pearlescent agents with a golden sheen, sold in particular by BASF under the name Nu-Antique Bronze 240 AB (TIMICA® pigment); blue pearlescent agents sold in particular by Merck under the name Matte Blue (17433) (MICRONA® pigment); white pearlescent agents with a silvery sheen sold in particular by Merck under the name XIRONA® Silver pigment;and pearlescent orange-pink-green-gold agents sold in particular by Merck under the name Indian Summer (Pigment XIRONA®), and mixtures thereof.
[0136] Goniochromatic pigments.
[0137] As used herein, the term "goniochromatic pigment" designates a pigment which, when the composition is spread on a substrate, provides a color distance in the a*b* plane of the CIE 1976 color space which corresponds to a variation Dh° of the hue angle h° of at least 20° when the angle of observation is varied from the normal between 0° and 80°, for an angle of incidence of light of 45°.
[0138] The color distance can be measured, for example, using a spectrogoniorometer-flectometer from the brand Instrument Systems and with the goniometer reference GON 360, after the composition has been spread in liquid state to a thickness of 300 qm using an automatic spreader on a contrast card from the brand Erichsen and with the reference Type 24 / 5, the measurement being carried out on the black background of the card.
[0139] The goniochromatic pigment can be chosen, for example, from multilayer interference structures and liquid crystal coloring agents.
[0140] In the case of a multilayer structure, this may include, for example, at least two layers, each layer being produced, for example, from at least one material chosen from the group consisting of the following materials: MgF2, CeF3, ZnS, ZnSe, Si, SiO2, Ge, Te, Fe2O3, Pt, Va, Al2O3, MgO, Y2O3, S2O3, SiO, HfO2, ZrO2, CeO2, Nb2O5, Ta2O5, TiO2, Ag, Al, Au, Cu, Rb, Ti, Ta, W, Zn, MoS2, cryolite, alloys, polymers and their combinations.
[0141] The multilayer structure may or may not exhibit symmetry with respect to a central layer, depending on the chemical nature of the stacked layers.
[0142] Depending on the thickness and nature of the various layers, various effects are obtained.
[0143] Examples of symmetrical multilayer interference structures are, by For example, the following structures: Fe2O3 / SiO2 / Fe2O3 / SiO2 / Fe2O3, a pigment with this structure being sold under the name SICOPEARL® pigments by BASF; MoS2 / SiO2 / mica oxide / SiO2 / MoS2; Fe2O3 / SiO2 / mica oxide / SiO2 / Fe2O3; TiO2 / SiO2 / TiO2 and TiO2 / A12O3 / TiO2, pigments with these structures being sold under the name XIRONA® pigments by Merck.
[0144] Liquid crystal coloring agents include, for example, silicones or cellulose ethers to which mesomorphic groups are grafted. Liquid crystal goniochromatic particles can be used, for example, those sold by Chenix and those sold under the name HELICONE® HC effect pigments by Wacker.
[0145] As a goniochromatic pigment, certain pearlescent agents, pigments with an effect on a synthetic substrate, in particular a substrate of the type alumina, silica, borosilicate, iron oxide or aluminium, or an interference scintillation resulting from a polyethylene terephthalate film can also be used.
[0146] In particular, by way of non-limiting examples of goniochro-matic pigments, alone or in mixture, we can cite the goniochromatic pigments SunShine® sold by Sun Chemical, Cosmicolor Celeste® from Toyo Aluminium KK, Xirona® from Merck and Reflecks Multidimensions® from BASF.
[0147] Dyes.
[0148] The composition according to the invention may also include one or more dyes.
[0149] Among the fat-soluble dyes, one may mention in particular fluorane dyes such as, for example, Sudan Red, FDC Red 4, DC Red 17, Red 21, Red 27, DC Green 6, Sudan Brown, Yellow 10, DC Yellow 11, DC Violet 2, DC Orange 4, DC Orange 5, quinoline yellow, or mixtures thereof.
[0150] Conservative.
[0151] The composition may include a preservative. The preservative may include an organic acid preservative. Non-limiting examples of preservatives include benzoic acid and its alkali metal and ammonium salts (e.g. sodium benzoate), sorbic acid and its alkali metal and ammonium salts (e.g. potassium sorbate), p-anisic acid and its alkali metal and ammonium salts, and salicylic acid and its alkali metal and ammonium salts, phenoxyethanol, benzyl alcohol, salicylic acid, sodium benzoate, caprylyl glycol, methylparaben, propylparaben, ethylhexylglycerin, 1,2-propanediol and any mixture thereof.
[0152] The preservative may be present in a total quantity not exceeding 2% by weight of the composition. The preservative may be present in a total quantity not exceeding 1.5% by weight of the composition. The preservative may be present in a total quantity not exceeding 1% by weight of the composition. The composition may be substantially free of preservatives.
[0153] Skin care agent.
[0154] The composition may include a skin-conditioning agent. The term "skin-conditioning agent" means an agent intended to enhance the aesthetic appearance and / or comfort of the skin.
[0155] The skin-conditioning agent may be ceramide. Ceramides are a family of waxy lipid molecules composed of sphingosine and a fatty acid. Ceramides include ceramide 1, ceramide 2, ceramide 3, ceramide 4, ceramide 5, ceramide IA, ceramide 6 II, ceramide AP, ceramide EOP, ceramide EOS, ceramide NP, ceramide NG, ceramide NS, ceramide AS, and ceramide NS dilaurate.
[0156] The composition may include a ceramide in a total amount not exceeding 2% by weight of the composition. The composition may include a ceramide in a total amount not exceeding 1.5% by weight of the composition. The composition may include a ceramide in a total quantity not exceeding 1% by weight of the composition. The composition may include a ceramide in a total quantity not exceeding 0.5% by weight of the composition. The composition may include a ceramide in a total quantity not exceeding 0.25% by weight of the composition.
[0157] The skin care agent may include a probiotic lysate. A probiotic is traditionally known as "microorganisms which, when administered in adequate amounts, confer a health benefit on the host." Here, the composition uses lysates of such microorganisms. A non-limiting example of such a lysate is a lysate of Bifida ferment.
[0158] The probiotic lysate may be present in a total quantity not exceeding 2% by weight of the composition. The probiotic lysate may be present in a total quantity not exceeding 1.5% by weight of the composition. The probiotic lysate may be present in a total quantity not exceeding 1% by weight of the composition. The composition may be substantially free of probiotic lysate.
[0159] The skin care agent may include hyaluronic acid or one of its derivatives. In some embodiments, only one hyaluronic acid or one of its derivatives is present. In other embodiments, a plurality of hyaluronic acids or one of their derivatives is present.
[0160] In the context of the present invention, the expression "hyaluronic acid or one of its derivatives" covers the basic motif of hyaluronic acid which includes the smallest fraction of hyaluronic acid comprising a disaccharide dimer, namely D-glucuronic acid and N-acetylglucosamine.
[0161] The expression "hyaluronic acid and one of its derivatives" also includes, in the context of the present invention, the linear polymer comprising the polymeric motif described above, linked together in the chain via alternating beta(l,4) and beta(l,3) glycosidic bonds, having a molecular weight (MW) that can vary between 380 and 13,000,000 daltons. This molecular weight depends largely on the source from which the hyaluronic acid is obtained and / or the preparation processes.
[0162] The expression "hyaluronic acid or one of its derivatives" also includes, in the context of the present invention, hyaluronic acid salts, and in particular alkali metal salts such as sodium salt and potassium salt.
[0163] In its natural state, hyaluronic acid is present in pericellular gels, in the basic substance of connective tissues of vertebrate organs such as the dermis and epithelial tissues and, in particular, in the epidermis, in the synovial fluid of joints, in the vitreous humor, in the human umbilical cord and in the crista galli apophysis.
[0164] Thus, the expression "hyaluronic acid or one of its derivatives" includes all fractions or sub-motifs of hyaluronic acid having a molecular mass in part- particular in the molecular weight range mentioned above.
[0165] According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the hyaluronic acid fractions suitable for the use covered by the present invention have a molecular weight between 50,000 and 5,000,000, in particular between 100,000 and 5,000,000, especially between 400,000 and 5,000,000 Da. In this case, the term used is high molecular weight hyaluronic acid.
[0166] Alternatively, the hyaluronic acid fractions that may also be suitable for use in the present invention are chosen from those having a molecular weight between 50,000 and 400,000 Da (intermediate molecular weight hyaluronic acid) and from those having a molecular weight less than 50,000 Da (low molecular weight hyaluronic acid).
[0167] Finally, the expression "hyaluronic acid or one of its derivatives" also includes hyaluronic acid esters, in particular those in which all or part of the carboxyl groups of the acid functions are esterified with oxyethylenated alkyls or alcohols, containing from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, in particular with a degree of substitution at the D-glucuronic acid of hyaluronic acid ranging from 0.5 to 50 percent. Examples include methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, n-pentyl, benzyl, and dodecyl esters of hyaluronic acid.
[0168] In some embodiments, hyaluronic acid or one of its derivatives may be present in a total quantity not exceeding approximately 2% by weight of the composition. In some embodiments, hyaluronic acid or one of its derivatives may be present in a total quantity not exceeding approximately 1% by weight of the composition. In some embodiments, hyaluronic acid or one of its derivatives may be present in a total quantity not exceeding approximately 0.5% by weight of the composition. In some embodiments, hyaluronic acid or one of its derivatives may be present in a total quantity not exceeding approximately 0.25% by weight of the composition. In some embodiments, hyaluronic acid or one of its derivatives may be present in a total quantity not exceeding approximately 0.1% by weight of the composition.In some embodiments, the composition may be substantially free of hyaluronic acid or one of its derivatives.
[0169] The skin care agent may include at least one hydrophilic active agent selected from C-glycosides or their derivatives of the following general formula (I):
[0170] S-CH2-XR (I)
[0171] wherein: R denotes a linear alkyl radical not substituted at C1-C4, in particular at CrC2, especially methyl; S represents a monosaccharide selected from D-glucose, D-xylose, N-acetyl-D-glucosamine and L-fucose, and in particular D-xylose; X represents a group selected from —CO—, —CH(OH)— and —CH(NH2)— and preferably a —CH(OH)— group; as well as their cosmetically acceptable salts, their solvates such as hydrates, and their optical isomers.
[0172] By way of non-limiting illustrations of C-glycoside derivatives of formula (I) which are more particularly suitable for the invention, the following compounds may be mentioned in particular: C-beta-D-xylopyranoside-n-propan-2-one; C-alpha-D-xylopyranoside-n-propan-2-one; C-beta-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane; C-alpha-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane; l-(C-beta-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-hydroxypropane; l-(C-alpha-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-hydroxypropane; l-(C-beta-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-aminopropane; l-(C-alpha-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-aminopropane; 3'-(acetamido-C-beta-D-glucopyranosyl)propan-2'-one; 3'-(acetamido-C-alpha-D-glucopyranosyl)propan-2'-one; l-(acetamido-C-beta-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-hydroxypropane; l-(acetamido-C-beta-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-aminopropane; as well as their cosmetically acceptable salts, their solvates such as hydrates, and their optical isomers.
[0173] According to a particular embodiment, a C-glycoside of formula (I) suitable for the invention may advantageously be C-beta-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane, whose INCI name is Hydroxypropyl Tetra-hydropyrantriol, sometimes called proxylane.
[0174] The salts of C glycosides of formula (I) suitable for the invention may include conventional physiologically acceptable salts of these compounds, such as those formed from organic or mineral acids. Examples include salts of mineral acids such as sulfuric acid, hydrochloric acid, hydrobromic acid, hydroiodic acid, phosphoric acid, and boric acid. Also included are salts of organic acids, which may comprise one or more carboxylic, sulfonic, or phosphonic acid groups. These may be linear, branched, or cyclic aliphatic acids or, alternatively, aromatic acids. These acids may also comprise one or more heteroatoms selected from O and N, for example, in the form of hydroxyl groups. Examples include propionic acid, acetic acid, terephthalic acid, citric acid and tartaric acid.
[0175] Solvates that are acceptable for the compounds described above include conventional solvates, such as those formed during the final stage of preparation of said compounds due to the presence of solvents. Examples that may be cited include solvates due to the presence of water or linear or branched alcohols, such as ethanol or isopropanol.
[0176] According to one embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises a C-glycoside in an amount of between 0.01% and 10% by weight of active material (C-glycoside) relative to the total weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the C-glycoside may be present in a total amount of less than 5% by weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the C-glycoside may be present in a total amount of less than 4% by weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the C-glycoside may be present in a total amount of less than 3% by weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the C-glycoside may be present in a total amount of less than 2% by weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the composition may be substantially free of C-glycoside. In some embodiments, the composition may be free of C-glycoside.
[0177] The skin care agent may include a peptide, such as a pentapeptide derivative (for example, MATRIXIL® palmitoyl pentapeptide), synthetic peptides such as iamine, CL biopeptide, or a palmitoyloligopeptide, or peptides extracted from plants, such as soy hydrolysate, rice peptide, or hazelnut extract peptide.
[0178] According to one embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises a peptide in an amount between 0.01% and 10% by weight of a peptide relative to the total weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the peptide may be present in a total amount of less than 5% by weight. In some embodiments, the peptide may be present in a total amount of less than 4% by weight. In some embodiments, the peptide may be present in a total amount of less than 3% by weight. In some embodiments, the peptide may be present in a total amount of less than 2% by weight. In some embodiments, the composition may be substantially free of the peptide. In some embodiments, the composition may be free of the peptide.
[0179] Antioxidant.
[0180] The composition may include an antioxidant. In some embodiments, the composition may include one or more lipophilic antioxidants. The lipophilic antioxidants may be tocopherol, pentaerythrityl tetra-di-t-butyl hydroxyhydrocinnamate, or a mixture thereof.
[0181] The antioxidant may be present in a total quantity not exceeding 2% by weight of the composition. The antioxidant may be present in a total quantity not exceeding 1.5% by weight of the composition. The antioxidant may be present in a total quantity not exceeding 1% by weight of the composition. The composition may be substantially free of antioxidants.
[0182] In various embodiments, a method may be proposed. The method may This includes the provision of a cosmetic composition as disclosed herein. The process may include the application of the cosmetic composition to a lip or skin.
[0183] Other materials.
[0184] The composition may include one or more additional materials. The one or more additional materials may include any other cosmetically acceptable material. In some embodiments, the composition may include no more than 10% of the one or more additional materials. In some embodiments, the composition may include no more than 9% of the one or more additional materials. In some embodiments, the composition may include no more than 8% of the one or more additional materials. In some embodiments, the composition may include no more than 7% of the one or more additional materials. In some embodiments, the composition may include no more than 6% of the one or more additional materials. In some embodiments, the composition may include no more than 5% of the one or more additional materials.In some embodiments, the composition may include no more than 4% of one or more additional materials. In some embodiments, the composition may include no more than 3% of one or more additional materials. In some embodiments, the composition may include no more than 2% of one or more additional materials. In some embodiments, the composition may be free or substantially free of one or more additional materials.
[0185] Charge.
[0186] One or more additional materials may include a filler. The filler may be present in a total quantity not exceeding 5% by weight of the composition. The filler may be present in a total quantity not exceeding 4% by weight of the composition. The filler may be present in a total quantity not exceeding 3% by weight of the composition. The filler may be present in a total quantity not exceeding 2% by weight of the composition. The filler may be present in a total quantity not exceeding 1% by weight of the composition.
[0187] The filler can be a mineral filler, an organic filler or optionally a modified clay.
[0188] Mineral charge and / or Organic charge.
[0189] In some embodiments, the filler may be colorless or white solid particles of any shape, which are dispersed in an insoluble form in the medium of the composition. These particles, of mineral or organic nature, give body or rigidity to the composition and / or smoothness and uniformity to the makeup.
[0190] The fillers used in the compositions according to the invention may have a lamellar, globular, spherical, plate-like or fibrous form or any other intermediate form between these defined forms.
[0191] The fillers according to the invention may or may not be surface coated, and in particular they may be surface treated with silicones, amino acids, fluorinated derivatives or any other substance which promotes the dispersion and compatibility of the filler in the composition.
[0192] Examples of mineral fillers that may be cited include talc, mica, silica, hollow silica microspheres, kaolin, calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate, hydroxyapatite, boron nitride, glass or ceramic microcapsules, or silica and titanium dioxide composites, for example the TSG range sold by Nippon Sheet Glass
[0193] Examples of organic fillers that may be cited include polyethylene powders, polymethyl methacrylate powders, polytetrafluoroethylene (Teflon) powders, acrylic acid copolymer powders (Polytrap from Dow Corning), lauroyl lysine, hollow polymer microspheres such as those of polyvinylidene chloride / acrylonitrile, for example Expancel (Nobel Industries), hexamethylene diisocyanate / trimethylol hexyllactone copolymer powder (Plastic Powder from Toshiki), silicone resin microbeads (for example Tospearl from Toshiba), synthetic or natural micronized waxes, metallic soaps derived from organic carboxylic acids containing 8 to 22 carbon atoms and preferably 12 to 18 carbon atoms, for example zinc stearate, magnesium stearate, lithium stearate, zinc laurate or magnesium myristate, Polypore® L 200 (Chemdal Corporation), polyurethane powders,in particular cross-linked polyurethane powders comprising a copolymer, said copolymer comprising trimethylol hexyllactone.
[0194] The mineral and / or organic filler may be present in a total quantity not exceeding 5% by weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the composition may be substantially free of any mineral and / or organic filler.
[0195] Optionally modified clay.
[0196] The filler may be an optionally modified clay. Clays are silicates containing a cation which may be selected from calcium, magnesium, aluminum, sodium, potassium or lithium cations, and mixtures thereof.
[0197] Examples of such products include clays of the smectite family, and also of the vermiculite, stevensite or chlorite families. These clays may be of natural or synthetic origin.
[0198] Preferably, organophilic clays are used, more particularly modified clays such as montmorillonite, bentonite, hectorite, attapulgite or sepiolite, and mixtures thereof. The clay is preferably a bentonite or a hectorite.
[0199] These clays are modified by a chemical compound selected from quaternary amines, tertiary amines, amine acetates, imidazolines, amine soaps, fatty sulfates, alkylarylsulfonates and amine oxides, and mixtures thereof.
[0200] Examples include hectorites modified by a quaternary amine, more specifically by a fatty acid ammonium halide in C22 CiO such as a chloride, comprising or not an aromatic group, such as hectorite modified by a distearyldimethylammonium halide, preferably a chloride, (CTFA name: Disteardimonium hectorite), such as, for example, those sold under the name Bentone 38V, Bentone 38V CG or Bentone EW CE by Elementis, or stearalconium hectorites, such as, in particular, the product Bentone 27 V.
[0201] We can also mention quaternium-18 bentonites, such as those sold, among others, under the names Bentone 34 by Elementis, Tixogel VP by United Catalyst and Claytone 40 by Southern Clay; stearalconium bentonites, such as those sold under the names Tixogel LG by United Catalyst and Claytone AF and Claytone APA by Southern Clay; or quaternium-18 / benzalconium bentonites, such as those sold under the name Claytone HT by Southern Clay.
[0202] The optionally modified clay may be present in a total quantity not exceeding 5% by weight of the composition. The optionally modified clay may be present in a total quantity not exceeding 4% by weight of the composition. The optionally modified clay may be present in a total quantity not exceeding 3% by weight of the composition. The optionally modified clay may be present in a total quantity not exceeding 2% by weight of the composition. The optionally modified clay may be present in a total quantity not exceeding 1% by weight of the composition.
[0203] Examples.
[0204] An exemplary formula and four comparative formulas (see Table 1, below) were produced by combining the necessary materials, heating to about 70 to 75 °C, mixing until homogeneous and cooling to room temperature.
[0205] [Table 1]
[0206] Table 1 (Formulas) Material Ex. 1 (% w / w) Comp. 1 (% w / w) Comp. 2 (% w / w) Comp. 3 (% w / w) Comp. 4 (% w / w) Allyl stearate / VA copolymer 0.5 to 6% 0.5 to 6% 0.5 to 6% - 0.5 to 6% Acrylate copolymer 0.5 to 6% - - 0.5 to 6% - C12-22 alkyl / hydroxyethyl acrylate copolymer, styrene / hydrogenated butadiene - 0.5 to 6% - - - C10-30 alkyl polyacrylate - - - - 0.5 to 6% Emulsifying or stabilizing agent 2 to 5% 2 to 5% 2 to 5% 2 to 5% 2 to 5% Polyol 1 to 10% 1 to 10% 1 to 10% 1 to 10% 1 to 10% Fatty substance - Polyolefins / Hydrocarbons 2 to 35% 2 to 35% 2 to 35% 2 to 35% 2 to 35% Fatty substance - Emollients 15 to 65% 15 to 65% 15 to 65% 15 to 65% 15 to 65% Skin care active ingredient 1 10% 1 to 10% 1 to 10% 1 to 10% 1 to 10% Polymeric elastomer 0.5 to 10% 0.5 to 10% 0.5 to 10% 0.5 to 10% 0.5 to 10% Dispersive agent 1 to 6% 1 to 6% 1 to 6% 1 to 6% 1 to 6% Hydrocarbon-based film-forming agent 3 to 9% 3 to 9% 3 to 9% 3 to 9% 3 to 9% Antioxidant <1% <1% <1% <1% <1% Colorants 1 to 10% 1 to 10% <1% 1 to 10% <1% 1 to 10% <1% 1 to 10% Polymer wax 1 to 3% 1 to 3% 1 to 3% 1 to 3% 1 to 3% Preservative <2% <2% <2% <2% <2% Optionally modified clay 1 to 2% 1 to 2% 1 to 2% 1 to 2% 1 to 2% Other excipients < 0.01% < 0.01% < 0,0.01% < 0.01% < 0.01%
[0207] Evaluations.
[0208] The above formulas were evaluated in terms of shear viscosity, liquid-solid transition, using a rheometer and measured in terms of stability under various temperature conditions.
[0209] The shear viscosity was measured on the sample from 0.01 to 1000 / s at 25 °C using a 2° cone and plate geometry with a TA Instrument Discovery series rheometer. For the liquid-solid transition, the samples were placed under shear at 0.1 / s at 25 °C for 2 min, then under high shear at 200 / s for 10 min at 25 °C before switching to oscillation mode with a strain of 0.2% and a frequency of 1 rad / s for 5 min. The solid-liquid transformation is defined by the intersection of the behaviors G' and G". For DSC, the samples were equilibrated at 25 °C and then heated to 70 °C at a rate of 10 degrees / min. After being held at the target temperature for 2 minutes, the samples were then cooled to -20 °C at a rate of -10 degrees / min and then reheated to 70 °C at 10 degrees / min.For stability reasons, the samples were placed in sealed jars in temperature-controlled chambers, either at 50°C for 8 weeks or at 45°C for 4 weeks.
[0210] [Table 2]
[0211] Table 2 (Evaluations) Material Ex. 1 Comp. 1 Comp. 2 Comp. 3 Comp. 4 Shear viscosity (Pa / s) Second-order drop with shear First-order drop in shear viscosity First-order drop in shear viscosity <1 Initial viscosity < Ex. 1 Second-order drop in shear viscosity Initial viscosity < Ex. 1 Second-order drop in shear viscosity Initial viscosity > Ex. 1 Liquid-solid transformation (1 radian / Hz) Crossover - 150 seconds. Always more liquid at rest and under shear. No crossover point. Always more liquid at rest and under shear. No crossover point. Liquid-to-solid transition approximately 75 seconds. Solid from start. Differential scanning calorimetry (DSC) (melting point C) 54 °C. No data. No data. No data. -40 °C Stability @ 45°C - 4 weeks OK Failure Failure Failure Failure
[0212] As noted, only the exemplary formulation performed well in all evaluations. The exemplary formulation exhibited good long-term stability at elevated temperatures, with low phase separation and low mobility on the lips until it set. All other formulations performed poorly in the stability tests. Comparative formulations 1 to 3 exhibited greater noticeable mobility on the lips until they set. Comparative formulation 4 was simply solid from the outset, and elevated temperatures caused wax recrystallization, resulting in changes in texture.
[0213] Looking at [Fig. 1], it can be seen that at low shear rates, there are synergies between the two copolymers. That is to say, the sum of the impact on viscosity provided by the allyl stearate / VA copolymer alone (see Comp. 2) and the impact on viscosity provided by the C12-22 alkyl acrylate / hydroxyethyl acrylate copolymer alone (see Comp. 3) is less than the impact on viscosity seen by the combination of the two copolymers (see Ex. 1).
[0214] A person skilled in the art will recognize or be able to determine, using only simple routine experimentation, numerous equivalents to the specific embodiments of the invention described herein. These equivalents are assumed to be encompassed by the following claims.
Claims
Demands
1. Cosmetic composition comprising: a C10-C40 alkyl acrylate polymer; an allylic polymer; a polar solvent; and an emulsifying agent or stabilizer; wherein the cosmetic composition is an emulsion.
2. A cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein the C10-C40 alkyl acrylate polymer is a Cl2-22 alkyl acrylate / hydroxyethyl acrylate copolymer; wherein the allylic polymer is an allyl stearate / vinyl acrylate (VA) copolymer; wherein the emulsifying agent or stabilizer is polyglyceryl-4 diisostearate / polyhydroxystearate / sebacate; and wherein the polar solvent is a polyol.
3. Cosmetic composition according to claim 2, wherein the polyol is glycerin.
4. Cosmetic composition according to claim 2, wherein the polyol comprises glycerin and a glyceryl ether and / or a glyceryl ester.
5. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising a fatty substance, the fatty substance being present in a total quantity of at least 30% by weight of the cosmetic composition.
6. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising a polymeric elastomer.
7. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising a dispersing agent.
8. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising a hydrocarbon-based resin.
9. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising a polyolefin, a colorant, a preservative, a skin-conditioning agent and / or an antioxidant.
10. A cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the cosmetic composition is substantially free of water; and / or wherein the composition contains less than 5% by weight of the com- cosmetic position of all other materials.