Composition comprising a peroxygenated salt, a hydrocarbon with a melting point above 25°C, a fat and a direct colorant

Abstract

The invention relates to a composition for lightening keratin fibers, and in particular human keratin fibers such as hair, comprising one or more peroxygenated salts, one or more hydrocarbons with a melting point above 25°C; one or more additional fats present in a total content greater than or equal to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; and one or more direct dyes. The invention also relates to a method for lightening keratin fibers, preferably human, particularly hair, comprising applying the composition to said keratin fibers.

Description

Title of the invention: Composition comprising a peroxygenated salt, a hydrocarbon with a melting point above 25°C, a fat, and a direct dye

[0001] The present invention relates to a composition, in particular a composition for lightening keratin fibers, and in particular human keratin fibers such as hair, comprising one or more peroxygenated salts, one or more hydrocarbon(s) with a melting point above 25°C, one or more additional fatty substances and one or more direct dye(s).

[0002] The invention also relates to a method for lightening human keratin fibers using such a composition.

[0003] In the field of hair lightening, tone level is generally used to characterize the degree or level of lightening. The concept of "tone" is based on the classification of natural shades, with one tone separating each shade from the one immediately preceding or following it. This definition and the classification of natural shades are well known to hairdressing professionals and are published in the book "Sciences des traitements cheveux" by Charles ZVIAK, 1988, Ed. Masson, pp. 215 and 278.

[0004] The tone heights range from 1 (black) to 10 (light blonde), one unit corresponding to one tone; the higher the number, the lighter the shade.

[0005] Lightening thus makes it possible to bring a tone height lighter than the initial natural tone height of the hair.

[0006] The processes used to lighten hair generally consist of using an aqueous composition comprising at least one oxidizing agent, under alkaline pH conditions in the vast majority of cases.

[0007] This oxidizing agent's role is to degrade the melanin in the hair, which, depending on the nature of the oxidizing agent present, leads to a more or less pronounced lightening of the hair fibers. Thus, for relatively slight lightening, the oxidizing agent is generally hydrogen peroxide. When greater lightening is desired, particularly lightening of at least 5 shades, peroxygenated salts, such as persulfates, are usually used in the presence of hydrogen peroxide. These peroxygenated salts are contained in compositions which, at the time of use, are mixed with an aqueous composition containing hydrogen peroxide.

[0008] In order to adjust the pH of the compositions to an alkaline pH to allow the activation of the oxidizing agent, an alkaline agent is used. This alkaline agent also causes a swelling of the keratin fiber, with an opening of the scales, which promotes the penetration of the oxidizing agent inside the fiber, and thus increases the efficiency of the reaction.

[0009] However, the use of alkaline agents and peroxide salts can lead to a deterioration in hair quality. The main causes of this deterioration are a decrease in cosmetic properties, such as shine, and a degradation of mechanical properties, particularly a reduction in mechanical resistance, which can also result in increased porosity. The hair is weakened and can become brittle during subsequent treatments such as blow-drying. An increase in frizz, which is unsightly, is also observed.

[0010] Lightening dark hair is therefore particularly delicate because it requires the use of a large amount of peroxygenated salts if one wishes to lighten them strongly, which can weaken them.

[0011] In addition, lightening compositions applied to very curly hair tend to alter the shape of the curls, which generally have a less defined appearance.

[0012] Furthermore, compositions containing peroxygenated salts are generally in powder form. However, since powdered compositions have the disadvantage of producing dust during handling, transport, and storage, paste-like compositions have been proposed. The powdered compounds are thus dispersed in a thickened, inert, organic liquid support, which provides a solution to the volatility problems.

[0013] On the other hand, the implementation of compositions in paste form causes new difficulties.

[0014] These pastes are generally anhydrous and have a compact, hard texture. Consequently, mixing the paste with the hydrogen peroxide composition is far from easy. This results not only in a longer mixing time but also in difficulties in obtaining a homogeneous and stable mixture.

[0015] Furthermore, the lightening compositions obtained may be difficult to distribute evenly over the entire head of hair, particularly curly or frizzy hair, which may lead to undesirable uneven lightening performance.

[0016] Finally, these lightening treatments are generally accompanied by the appearance of unsightly yellow-orange reflections that we seek to minimize.

[0017] Thus, one of the objectives of the present invention is to propose compositions for lightening keratin fibers, preferably human keratin fibers such as hair, which do not present the aforementioned disadvantages above, that is to say, which are capable of leading to very good lightening performance, with an aesthetic reflection, without altering the cosmetic properties of the hair, while having very good qualities of use, in particular by respecting the nature of the hair.

[0018] This objective and others are achieved by the present invention, which therefore relates to a composition comprising: - one or more peroxygenated salts; - one or more hydrocarbon(s) with a melting point above 25°C; - one or more additional fats present in a total content greater than or equal to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; and - one or more direct colorings.

[0019] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention is a keratin fiber lightening composition, preferably human, preferably hair.

[0020] The invention also relates to a lightening process implementing said composition, the use of the composition for lightening keratin fibers, and in particular hair, as well as a multi-compartment device suitable for implementing said lightening composition.

[0021] The composition according to the invention leads to a significant level of lightening, up to 9 shades, more aesthetic, without major alteration of the cosmetic properties of the hair, and with improved qualities of use.

[0022] In particular, the composition according to the invention is in the form of a cream that mixes quickly and easily with an aqueous hydrogen peroxide composition to obtain a homogeneous and stable mixture. The resulting mixture is easily applied to the hair. Its smooth, creamy texture helps prevent dripping during application while spreading easily throughout the hair, even in very curly hair. Furthermore, the mixture does not dry out during the application time, thus ensuring optimal availability of the active ingredients throughout the application period. In addition, the mixture rinses out easily.

[0023] The cosmetic properties of hair treated with the composition according to the invention do not show any major alteration, particularly in terms of softness and detangling. The composition specifically conditions the hair and reduces breakage during detangling, especially in very curly hair. When applied to very curly hair, it also helps maintain curl shape by providing good definition. The composition also provides good frizz control.

[0024] Finally, a significant lightening of the hair is obtained without unsightly yellow-orange highlights.

[0025] Other objects, features, aspects and advantages of the invention will become even clearer upon reading the description and examples that follow.

[0026] In what follows, and unless otherwise indicated, the bounds of a range of values ​​are included in that range, in particular in the expressions "between" and "ranging from ... to ...".

[0027] Furthermore, the expression "at least one" used in this description is equivalent to the expression "one or more".

[0028] The expressions "lightening" and "bleaching" are synonymous and can be used interchangeably. Peroxygenated salts

[0029] The composition according to the invention comprises one or more peroxygenated salts.

[0030] Preferably, the peroxygenated salts are chosen from among persulfates; perborates; peracids and / or their salts; alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, or ammonium percarbonates; magnesium peroxide; and mixtures thereof.

[0031] More preferably, the composition according to the present invention comprises at least one persulfate.

[0032] Persulfates, also called peroxysulfates, correspond, in the sense of the invention, to the anions SO52 (peroxomonosulfate anion) or S2O82 (peroxodisulfate anion) or to compounds comprising at least one of these anions.

[0033] Preferably, the persulfates according to the invention are chosen from among the peroxodisulfates.

[0034] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one peroxygenated salt selected from the persulfates; preferably from alkali metal persulfates, alkaline earth metal persulfates, ammonium persulfates, and mixtures thereof; more preferably from (bis)tetrabutylammonium persulfate, barium persulfate, magnesium persulfate, calcium persulfate, sodium persulfate, potassium persulfate, ammonium persulfate, and mixtures thereof; more preferably still from sodium persulfate, potassium persulfate, ammonium persulfate, and mixtures thereof; even better from potassium persulfate, ammonium persulfate, and mixtures thereof.

[0035] Preferably, the total content of peroxygenated salt(s) present in the composition according to the invention ranges from 1 to 60% by weight, more preferably from 5 to 55% by weight, more preferably from 10 to 50% by weight, and even better from 20 to 45%, or even from 30 to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0036] Preferably, the total content of persulfate(s) present in the composition according to the invention ranges from 1 to 60% by weight, more preferably from 5 to 55% by weight, more preferably still from 10 to 50% by weight, even better from 20 to 45%, or even from 30 to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0037] Hydrocarbon(s) with a melting point above 25°C

[0038] The composition according to the invention further comprises one or more hydrocarbons with a melting point above 25°C.

[0039] The term “hydrocarbon having a melting point above 25°C” means a hydrocarbon having a melting point above 25°C at atmospheric pressure (1.013.105 Pa).

[0040] For the purposes of the present invention, the melting point corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed in thermal analysis (differential scanning calorimetry or DSC) as described in ISO 11357-3; 1999. The melting point can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example, the calorimeter sold under the name "MDSC 2920" by TA Instruments. In the present application, all melting points are determined at atmospheric pressure (1.013 x 10⁵ Pa).

[0041] The hydrocarbons according to the invention are made up of carbon atoms and hydrogen atoms, that is to say, they contain only carbon atoms and hydrogen atoms. They preferably comprise at least 30 carbon atoms, preferably at least 35 carbon atoms, better still at least 40 carbon atoms.

[0042] The hydrocarbons according to the invention can be linear or branched, preferably linear.

[0043] Preferably, the hydrocarbons according to the invention are saturated.

[0044] Preferably, the hydrocarbons according to the invention have a higher melting point or equal to 30°C, preferably greater than or equal to 50°C, preferably greater than or equal to 70°C, better greater than or equal to 80°C. More preferably, the hydrocarbons according to the invention have a melting point ranging from 85 to 150°C, better from 90 to 120°C.

[0045] The number-average molar mass (Mn) of the hydrocarbons according to the invention is preferably between about 400 and 2000, and more particularly between about 400 and 1000, more preferably between 500 and 700.

[0046] The number-average molecular masses of these hydrocarbons can be measured by Gel Permeation Chromatography (GPC) at room temperature (25°C) in polystyrene equivalents. The columns used are p-styragel columns. The eluent is THF, and the flow rate is 1 ml / min. 200 µl of a 0.5% (wt) silicone solution is injected into the THF. Detection is performed by refractometry and UV measurement.

[0047] Preferably, hydrocarbons with a melting point above 25°C are chosen from waxes.

[0048] A wax, as defined in the present invention, is a lipophilic compound, solid at 25°C and atmospheric pressure, with a reversible solid / liquid phase change, a melting point above approximately 40°C and up to 200°C, and an anisotropic crystalline structure in the solid state. Generally, the size of the wax crystals is such that they diffract and / or scatter light, giving the composition a cloudy, more or less opaque appearance. By heating the wax to its melting point, it can be made miscible with oils and form a microscopically homogeneous mixture, but by lowering the temperature of the mixture to room temperature, the wax recrystallizes, a phenomenon detectable both microscopically and macroscopically (opalescence).

[0049] Preferably, hydrocarbons with a melting point above 25 °C are chosen from microcrystalline waxes, polyethylene waxes, Fischer-Tropsch waxes, paraffin waxes, ozokerite and mixtures thereof.

[0050] According to a preferred embodiment, the hydrocarbon(s) with a melting point above 25°C are chosen from among the ethylene homopolymers, also called polyethylenes.

[0051] Preferably, the hydrocarbon(s) according to the invention are chosen from among ethylene homopolymers with a melting point greater than or equal to 30°C, preferably greater than or equal to 50°C, preferably greater than or equal to 70°C, better greater than or equal to 80°C, preferably, ranging from 85 to 150°C, better from 90 to 120°C.

[0052] Preferably, hydrocarbons with a melting point above 25°C are chosen from polyethylene waxes.

[0053] According to a particularly preferred embodiment, hydrocarbons with a melting point above 25°C are selected from polyethylene waxes with a melting point above or equal to 80°C.

[0054] Among the polyethylene waxes usable according to the invention, mention may be made in particular of that marketed under the name CIRE POLYETHYLENE AC 1702 by the company HONEYWELL, those marketed under the names PERFORMALENE® 500-L POLYETHYLENE, PERFORMALENE® 400 POLYETHYLENE, PERFORMALENE® 655 POLYETHYLENE, PERFORMALENE® SCRUB BEADS, PERFORMALENE® SE / 2 POLYETHYLENE, POLYWAX® 725 POLYETHYLENE, POLYWAX® 850 POLYETHYLENE, POLYWAX® 1000 POLYETHYLENE, PERFORMA SW 100 SYNTHETIC WAX by the company NUCERA SOLUTIONS.

[0055] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises the hydrocarbon(s) with a melting point above 25 °C in a total quantity of 0.1 to 30% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 20% by weight, more preferably 1 to 10% by weight, better 1.5 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0056] Preferably, the total content of hydrocarbons with a melting point above 25°C selected from ethylene homopolymers ranges from 0.1 to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 20% by weight, more preferably from 1 to 10% by weight, better from 1.5 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0057] Preferably, the total content of hydrocarbons with a melting point above 25°C selected from polyethylene waxes ranges from 0.1 to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 20% by weight, more preferably from 1 to 10% by weight, better from 1.5 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0058] Additional fats, other than hydrocarbons with a melting point above 25°C

[0059] The composition according to the invention further comprises one or more additional fats, other than hydrocarbons with a melting point above 25°C.

[0060] The term "fatty substance" refers to an organic compound insoluble in water at 25°C and atmospheric pressure (1.013 x 10⁵ Pa) (solubility less than 5% by weight, and preferably less than 1% by weight, even more preferably less than 0.1% by weight). Its structure includes at least one hydrocarbon chain comprising at least 6 carbon atoms and / or a chain of at least two siloxane groups. Furthermore, fatty substances are generally soluble in organic solvents under the same temperature and pressure conditions, such as chloroform, dichloromethane, carbon tetrachloride, ethanol, benzene, toluene, tetrahydrofuran (THF), petrolatum, or decamethylcyclopentasiloxane.

[0061] Advantageously, the fats usable in the present invention are neither (poly)oxyalkylated nor (poly)glycerolated.

[0062] Fatty substances according to the invention are different from fatty acids and their salts.

[0063] Preferably the useful fatty substances according to the invention are non-siliconized.

[0064] The term "non-siliconized fat" means a fat that does not contain Si-O bonds and the term "siliconized fat" means a fat that contains at least one Si-O bond.

[0065] The useful fats according to the invention may be liquid fats (or oils) and / or solid fats. Liquid fats are defined as fats having a melting point less than or equal to 25°C and at atmospheric pressure (1.013 x 10⁵ Pa). Solid fats are defined as fats with a melting point above 25°C at atmospheric pressure (1.013.105 Pa).

[0066] For the purposes of the present invention, the melting point corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed in thermal analysis (differential scanning calorimetry or DSC) as described in ISO 11357-3; 1999. The melting point can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example, the calorimeter sold under the name "MDSC 2920" by TA Instruments. In the present application, all melting points are determined at atmospheric pressure (1.013 x 10⁵ Pa).

[0067] More particularly, the liquid fat(s) according to the invention are chosen from among liquid hydrocarbons in C6 to C16, liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms, non-siliconized oils of animal origin, triglyceride type oils of vegetable or synthetic origin, fluorinated oils, liquid fatty alcohols, liquid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols other than triglycerides, silicone oils, and mixtures thereof.

[0068] It is recalled that fatty alcohols and esters more particularly have at least one hydrocarbon group, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, comprising from 6 to 40, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, possibly substituted, in particular by one or more hydroxyl groups (in particular 1 to 4). If they are unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three carbon-carbon double bonds, conjugated or not.

[0069] As regards liquid hydrocarbons in the C6 to Cl6 range, these can be linear, branched, possibly cyclic, and are preferably chosen from among the alkanes. By way of example, hexane, cyclohexane, undecane, dodecane, isododecane, tridecane, isoparaffins such as isohexadecane, isodecane, and mixtures thereof may be cited.

[0070] Liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms may be linear or branched, of mineral or synthetic origin, and are preferably chosen from paraffin or petroleum jelly oils (INCI name ore oil or paraffinum liquidum), polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam®, and mixtures thereof.

[0071] Perhydrosqualene is an example of an animal-derived hydrocarbon oil.

[0072] Triglyceride oils of vegetable or synthetic origin are preferably chosen from among liquid triglycerides of fatty acids comprising 6 to 30 carbon atoms, such as triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acid, or, for example, sunflower, corn, soybean, pumpkin, grapeseed, sesame, hazelnut, apricot, macadamia, arara, castor, and avocado oils, or caprylic / capric acid triglycerides such as those sold by the company Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol® 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil, shea butter oil, and their mixtures.

[0073] As regards fluorinated oils, these can be chosen from perfluoromethylcyclopentane and perfluoro-1,3 dimethylcyclohexane, sold under the names "FLUTEC® PCI" and "FLUTEC® PC3" by BNFL Fluorochemicals; perfluoro-1,2-dimethylcyclobutane; perfluoroalkanes such as dodecafluoropentane and tetradecafluorohexane, sold under the names "PF 5050®" and "PF 5060®" by 3M, or bromoperfluorooctyl sold under the name "FORALKYL®" by Atochem; nonafluoromethoxybutane and nonafluoroethoxyisobutane; perfluoromorpholine derivatives, such as 4-trifluoromethyl perfluoromorpholine sold under the name "PF 5052®" by 3M.

[0074] Liquid fatty alcohols suitable for implementing the invention are particularly chosen from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alcohols, preferably unsaturated or branched, comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. Examples include octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleic alcohol, linolenic alcohol, ricinoleic alcohol, undecylenic alcohol or linoleic alcohol, and mixtures thereof.

[0075] With regard to liquid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols, other than the triglycerides mentioned above, we may mention in particular the esters of saturated or unsaturated mono- or poly-aliphatic acids, linear in Cl to C26 or branched in C3 to C26 and of saturated or unsaturated mono- or poly-aliphatic alcohols, linear in Cl to C26 or branched in C3 to C26, the total number of carbons of the esters being greater than or equal to 6, more advantageously greater than or equal to 10.

[0076] Preferably, for monoalcohol esters, at least one of the alcohol or acid from which the esters of the invention are derived is branched.

[0077] Among the monoesters, the following may be mentioned: dihydroabietyl behenate; octyldodecyl behenate; isocetyl behenate; isostearyl lactate; lauryl lactate; linoleyl lactate; oleyl lactate; isostearyl octanoate; isocetyl octanoate; octyl octanoate; decyl oleate; isocetyl isostearate; isocetyl laurate; isocetyl stearate; isodecyl octanoate; isodecyl oleate; isononyl isononanoate; isostearyl palmitate; methyl acetyl ricinoleate; octyl isononanoate; 2-ethylhexyl isononate; octyldodecyl erucate; oleyl erucate; ethyl and isopropyl palmitates, such as ethyl-2-hexyl palmitate and 2-octyldecyl palmitate; alkyl myristates such than isopropyl myristate; isobutyl stearate; 2-hexyldecyl laurate, and mixtures thereof.

[0078] Preferably among monoesters of monoacids and monoalcohols, ethyl and isopropyl palmitates, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl or ethyl myristate, isocetyl stearate, ethyl-2-hexyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof will be used.

[0079] Still within the framework of this variant, one can also use the esters of di or tricarboxylic acids in C4 to C22 and of alcohols in Cl to C22 and the esters of mono-, di-, or tricarboxylic acids and of di-, tri-, tetra- or pentahydroxy alcohols in C2 to C26.

[0080] Examples include: diethyl sebacate; diisopropyl sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; din-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; diisostearyl adipate; dioctyl maleate; glyceryl undecylenate; octyldodecyl stearoyl stearate; pentaerythrityl monoricinoleate; pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate; pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate; pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate; pentaerythrityl tetraoctanoate; propylene glycol dicaprylate; propylene glycol dicaprate; tridecyl erucate; triisopropyl citrate; triisotearyl citrate; glyceryl trilactate; glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate; propylene glycol dioctanoate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; diethylene glycol diisanonate; polyethylene glycol distearates, and mixtures thereof.

[0081] The composition may also include, as a fatty acid ester, esters and diesters of sugars of fatty acids in the C6 to C30 range, preferably in the C12 to C22 range. It should be noted that the term "sugar" refers to oxygenated hydrocarbon compounds possessing several alcohol functional groups, with or without aldehyde or ketone functional groups, and comprising at least four carbon atoms. These sugars may be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides, or polysaccharides.

[0082] Suitable sugars may be cited for example sucrose (or saccharose), glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose, lactose, and their derivatives in particular alkylated, such as methylated derivatives like methylglucose.

[0083] Sugar and fatty acid esters may be selected in particular from the group comprising the esters or mixtures of sugar esters described above and fatty acids in the ranges of C6 to C30, preferably C12 to C22, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated. If unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three carbon-carbon double bonds, conjugated or not.

[0084] The esters according to this variant can also be chosen from mono-, di-, tri- and tetra-esters, polyesters and their mixtures.

[0085] These esters may be, for example, oleate, laurate, palmitate, myristate, behenate, cocoate, stearate, linoleate, linolenate, caprate, arachidonate, or mixtures thereof, such as mixed oleo-palmitate, oleo-stearate, palmito-stearate esters.

[0086] More particularly, mono- and di- esters are used, and in particular mono- or di- oleate, stearate, behenate, oleopalmitate, linoleate, linolenate, oleostearate, of sucrose, glucose or methylglucose, and mixtures thereof.

[0087] One can cite as an example the product sold under the name Glucate® DO by the company Amerchol, which is a methylglucose dioleate.

[0088] Preferably, a liquid ester of monoacid and monoalcohol will be used.

[0089] The silicone oils usable in the composition according to the present invention may be volatile or non-volatile, cyclic, linear or branched, modified or not by organic groups, and preferably have a viscosity of 5.106 at 2.5 m2 / s at 25°C, and preferably 1.105 at 1 m2 / s.

[0090] Preferably, silicone oils are chosen from polydialkylsiloxanes, in particular polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), and liquid polyorganosiloxanes comprising at least one aryl group.

[0091] These silicone oils can also be organomodified. The organomodified silicone oils usable according to the invention are preferably liquid silicones as defined above and comprising in their structure one or more organofunctional groups fixed by means of a hydrocarbon group, for example chosen from among the amine groups and the alkoxy groups.

[0092] Organopolysiloxanes are defined in more detail in Walter Noll's "Chemistry and Technology of Silicones" (1968), Academy Press. They can be volatile or non-volatile.

[0093] When volatile, silicone oils are particularly chosen from those having a boiling point between 60°C and 260°C, and more particularly from:

[0094] (i) cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes comprising 3 to 7, preferably 4 with 5 silicon atoms. This includes, for example, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane marketed in particular under the name VOLATILE SILICONE® 7207 by UNION CARBIDE or SILBIONE® 70045 V2 by RHODIA, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane marketed under the name VOLATILE SILICONE® 7158 by UNION CARBIDE, and SILBIONE® 70045 V5 by RHODIA, as well as their mixtures.

[0095] We can also mention cyclocopolymers of the dimethylsiloxane / methylalkylsiloxane type, such as SILICONE VOLATILE® FZ 3109 marketed by the company UNION CARBIDE.

[0096] We can also mention mixtures of cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes with silicon-derived organic compounds, such as the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and tetratrimethylsilylpentaerythritol (50 / 50) and the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and oxy-l,l'-(hexa-2,2,2',2',3,3'-trimethylsilyloxy) bis-neopentane;

[0097] (ii) linear volatile polydialkylsiloxanes having 2 to 9 silicon atoms and exhibiting a viscosity less than or equal to 5 x 10⁻⁶ m² / s at 25°C. This includes, for example, decamethyltetrasiloxane, marketed notably under the name “SH 200” by TORAY SILICONE. Silicones falling into this class are also described in the article published in Cosmetics and Toiletries, Vol. 91, Jan. 1976, pp. 27–32 – TODD & BYERS “Volatile Silicone Fluids for Cosmetics”.

[0098] Non-volatile polydialkylsiloxanes are preferably used.

[0099] These silicone oils are more specifically chosen from among the polydialkylsiloxanes, among which the main examples are polydimethylsiloxanes with trimethylsilyl terminal groups. The viscosity of the silicones is measured at 25°C according to ASTM 445 Appendix C.

[0100] Among these polydialkylsiloxanes, the following commercial products may be cited by way of non-limiting example: - SILBIONE® oils from series 47 and 70 047 or MIRASIL® oils marketed by RHODIA such as, for example, oil 70 047 V 500 000; - the MIRASIL® series oils marketed by the company RHODIA; - oils from the 200 series of DOW CORNING such as DC200 having a viscosity of 60,000 mm2 / s; - VISCASIL® oils from GENERAL ELECTRIC and certain oils from the SF series (SF 96, SF 18) from GENERAL ELECTRIC.

[0101] We can also mention polydimethylsiloxanes with dimethylsilanol terminal groups known as dimethiconol (CTFA), such as the oils in the 48 series from the RHODIA company.

[0102] Organomodified silicones usable according to the invention are silicones as defined above and comprising in their structure one or more organofunctional groups fixed by means of a hydrocarbon group.

[0103] With regard to liquid polyorganosiloxanes comprising at least one aryl group, they may in particular be polydiphenylsiloxanes, and polyalkyl-arylsiloxanes functionalized by the organofunctional groups mentioned above.

[0104] Polyalkylarylsiloxanes are particularly chosen from among polydimethyl / methylphenylsiloxanes, linear and / or branched polydimethyl / diphenylsiloxanes with viscosities ranging from 1.105 to 5.102 m2 / s at 25°C.

[0105] Examples of these polyalkylarylsiloxanes include products marketed under the following names: - SILBIONE® oils from the 70 641 series by RHODIA; - the oils from the RHODORSIL® 70 633 and 763 series from RHODIA; - DOW CORNING 556 COSMETIC GRAD FLUID oil from DOW CORNING; - silicones from the PK series by BAYER such as the PK20 product; - silicones from the PN, PH series from BAYER such as the PN1000 and PH1000 products; - certain oils from the SF series of GENERAL ELECTRIC such as SF 1023, SF 1154, SF 1250, SF 1265.

[0106] Among organomodified silicones, we can mention polyorganosiloxanes comprising: - substituted or unsubstituted amine groups such as the products marketed under the names GP 4 Silicone Fluid and GP 7100 by GENESEE or the products marketed under the names Q2 8220 and DOW CORNING 929 or 939 by DOW CORNING. The substituted amine groups are in particular aminoalkyl groups in Cl to C4; - alkoxylated groups, - hydroxyl groups.

[0107] The solid fats according to the invention preferably have a viscosity greater than 2 Pa.s, measured at 25°C and at a shear rate of 1 s*.

[0108] The solid fat(s) are preferably chosen from solid fatty alcohols, solid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols, waxes, ceramides, and mixtures thereof.

[0109] By "fatty alcohol" is meant a long-chain aliphatic alcohol comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, and comprising at least one hydroxyl group OH. These fatty alcohols are neither oxyalkylated nor glycerolated.

[0110] Solid fatty alcohols may be saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and comprise from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms. Preferably, the solid fatty alcohols have an R-OH structure with R denoting a linear alkyl group, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups. comprising 8 to 40, preferably delO with 30 carbon atoms, better 10 to 30, or even 12 to 24 atoms, even better 14 to 22 carbon atoms.

[0111] The solid fatty alcohols that can be used are preferably chosen from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched (mono)alcohols, preferably linear and saturated, comprising 8 to 40 carbon atoms, better 10 to 30, or even 12 to 24 atoms, even better 14 to 22 carbon atoms.

[0112] The solid fatty alcohols that may be used may be selected from, alone or in mixture: myristic or myristyl alcohol (or 1-tetradecanol); cetyl alcohol (or 1-hexadecanol); stearyl alcohol (or 1-octadecanol); arachidyl alcohol (or 1-eicosanol); behenyl alcohol (or 1-docosanol); lignoceryl alcohol (or 1-tetracosanol); ceryl alcohol (or 1-hexacosanol); montanyyl alcohol (or 1-octacosanol); myricyl alcohol (or 1-triacontanol).

[0113] Preferably, the solid fatty alcohol is selected from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, arachidic alcohol, and mixtures thereof, such as cetylstearyl or cetearyl alcohol. Particularly preferred, the solid fatty alcohol is selected from cetylstearyl or cetearyl alcohol and cetyl alcohol.

[0114] The solid fatty acid and / or fatty alcohol esters that may be used are preferably selected from esters derived from C9-C26 carboxylic fatty acids and / or C9-C26 fatty alcohols.

[0115] Preferably, these solid fatty acid esters are esters of saturated linear or branched carboxylic acids comprising at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and more particularly from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, and of saturated linear or branched monoalcohols comprising at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and more particularly from 12 to 24 carbon atoms. The saturated carboxylic acids may optionally be hydroxylated, and are preferably monocarboxylic acids.

[0116] Esters of di- or tricarboxylic acids in C4-C22 and of alcohols in C1-C22 and esters of mono-, di- or tricarboxylic acids and of di-, tri-, tetra- or pentahydroxylated alcohols in C2-C26 can also be used.

[0117] Examples include octyldodecyl behenate, isocetyl behenate, cetyl lactate, stearyl octanoate, octyl octanoate, cetyl octanoate, decyl oleate, hexyl stearate, octyl stearate, myristyle stearate, cetyl stearate, stearyl stearate, octyl pelargonate, cetyl myristate, myristyle myristate, stearyl myristate, diethyl sebacate, diisopropyl sebacate, diisopropyl adipate, din-propyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, maleate dioctyl, octyl palmitate, myristyle palmitate, cetyl palmitate, stearyl palmitate, and mixtures thereof.

[0118] Preferably, the solid fatty acid and / or fatty alcohol esters are selected from C9-C26 alkyl palmitates, in particular myristyle, cetyl, stearyl palmitates; C9-C26 alkyl myristates such as cetyl myristate, stearyl myristate and myristyle myristate; C9-C26 alkyl stearates, in particular myristyle, cetyl and stearyl stearates; and mixtures thereof.

[0119] A wax, as defined in the present invention, is a lipophilic compound, solid at 25°C and atmospheric pressure, with a reversible solid / liquid phase change, a melting point above approximately 40°C and up to 200°C, and an anisotropic crystalline structure in the solid state. Generally, the size of the wax crystals is such that they diffract and / or scatter light, giving the composition a cloudy, more or less opaque appearance. By heating the wax to its melting point, it can be made miscible with oils and form a microscopically homogeneous mixture, but by lowering the temperature of the mixture to room temperature, the wax recrystallizes, a phenomenon detectable both microscopically and macroscopically (opalescence).

[0120] In particular, the waxes suitable for the invention can be chosen from waxes of animal origin, vegetable origin, non-siliconized synthetic waxes and their mixtures.

[0121] Examples include beeswax, especially of biological origin, lanolin wax, and insect waxes from China; rice bran wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, ouricury wax, alfa wax, berry wax, shellac wax, Japanese wax and sumac wax; Montan wax, orange and lemon waxes and waxy copolymers, as well as their esters.

[0122] We can also mention waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or vegetable oils having linear or branched fatty chains, in the range of C8 to C32. Among these, we can mention in particular isomerized jojoba oil, such as trans isomerized partially hydrogenated jojoba oil, in particular that manufactured or marketed by the company Desert Whale under the trade reference Iso-Jojoba-50®, hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, hydrogenated lanolin oil, and di-(trimethyloi-1,1,1 propane tetrastearate), in particular that sold under the name Hest 2T-4S® by the company HETERENE.

[0123] Waxes obtained by hydrogenation of esterified castor oil with cetyl alcohol, such as those sold under the names Phytowax ricin 16L64® and 22L73® by the company SOPHIM, can also be used.

[0124] As a wax, a C20 to C40 alkyl (hydroxystearyloxy)stearate (the alkyl group comprising 20 to 40 carbon atoms) can also be used, alone or in a mixture. Such a wax is notably sold under the name "Kester Wax". K 82 P®”, “Hydroxypolyester K 82 P®” and “Kester Wax K 80 P®” by the company KOSTER KEUNEN.

[0125] It is also possible to use microwaxes in the compositions of the invention; examples include camauba microwaxes, such as that marketed under the name MicroCare 350® by MICRO POWDERS, and polytetrafluoroethylene microwaxes, such as those marketed under the names Microslip 519® and 519 L® by MICRO POWDERS.

[0126] Waxes are preferably chosen from vegetable waxes such as cocoa butter or waxes from cork or sugar cane fibers, olive wax, rice wax, hydrogenated jojoba wax, Ouricoury wax, Camauba wax, Candelila wax, Alfa wax, or absolute flower waxes such as blackcurrant flower essential wax sold by the BERTIN company (France); waxes of animal origin such as beeswax or modified beeswax (cerabellina), spermaceti, lanolin wax and lanolin derivatives; and mixtures thereof.

[0127] Ceramides or ceramide analogues such as glycoceramides, which can be used in compositions according to the invention, are known; in particular, ceramides of classes I, II, III and V according to the DAWNING classification may be mentioned.

[0128] The ceramides or their analogues that may be used preferably conform to the following formula: R3CH(OH)CH(CH2OR2)(NHCOR1), in which:

[0129] RI designates an alkyl group, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, derived from C14-C30 fatty acids, this group being able to be substituted by a hydroxyl group in the alpha position, or a hydroxyl group in the omega position esterified by a saturated or unsaturated fatty acid in the C16-C30 position;

[0130] R2 denotes a hydrogen atom, a (glycosyl)n group, a (galactosyl)m group or a sulfogalactosyl group, in which n is an integer ranging from 1 to 4 and m is an integer ranging from 1 to 8;

[0131] R3 designates a C15-C26 hydrocarbon group, saturated or unsaturated in the alpha position, this group being able to be substituted by one or more Cl-C14 alkyl groups; it being understood that in the case of natural ceramides or glycoceramides, R3 may also designate an alpha-hydroxyalkyl group in C15-C26, the hydroxyl group being optionally esterified by an alpha-hydroxy acid in C16-C30.

[0132] The ceramides most particularly preferred are the compounds for which RI denotes a saturated or unsaturated alkyl derived from fatty acids in C16-C22; R2 denotes a hydrogen atom and R3 denotes a linear saturated group in C15.

[0133] Preferably, ceramides are used in which RI designates a saturated or unsaturated alkyl group derived from C14-C30 fatty acids; R2 designates a galactosyl or sulfogalactosyl group; and R3 designates a -CH=CH-(CH2)12-CH3 group.

[0134] Compounds can also be used in which RI designates a saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical derived from C12-C22 fatty acids; R2 designates a galactosyl or sulfogalactosyl radical and R3 designates a C12-C22 hydrocarbon radical, saturated or unsaturated and preferably a -CH=CH-(CH2)i2-CH3 group.

[0135] As particularly preferred compounds, we may also mention 2-N-linoleoylamino-octadecane-l,3-diol; 2-N-oleoylamino-octadecane-l,3-diol; 2-N-palmitoylamino-octadecane-l,3-diol; 2-N-stearoylamino-octadecane-l,3-diol; 2-N-behenoylamino-octadecane-l,3-diol; 2-N-[2-hydroxy-palmitoyl]-amino-octadecane-l,3-diol; 2-N-stearoyl amino-octadecane-1,3,4-triol, and in particular N-stearoyl phytosphingosine, 2-N-palmitoylamino-hexadecane-1,3-diol, N-linoleoyldihydrosphingosine, N-oleoyldihydrosphingosine, N-palmitoyldihydrosphingosine, N-stearoyldihydrosphingosine, and N-behenoyldihydrosphingosine, N-docosanoyl N-methyl-D-glucamine, cetyl acid N-(2-hydroxyethyl)-N-(3-cetyloxy-2-hydroxypropyl)amide, and bis-(N-hydroxyethyl N-cetyl)malonamide; and mixtures thereof. Preferably, N-oleoyldihydrosphingosine shall be used.

[0136] Solid fats are preferably chosen from solid fatty alcohols, waxes and mixtures thereof.

[0137] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one liquid fat, preferably chosen from liquid hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, vegetable oils, liquid fatty alcohols, liquid fatty esters, silicone oils and mixtures thereof.

[0138] According to another particularly preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one liquid fat selected from liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms, in particular petroleum jelly, liquid fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof.

[0139] More preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one liquid fat chosen from liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms, in particular petroleum jelly.

[0140] The composition according to the invention comprises one or more fats other than hydrocarbons with a melting point above 25°C in a total content preferably ranging from 10 to 60% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0141] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more fats other than hydrocarbons with a melting point above 25°C in a total content greater than or equal to 12% by weight, preferably greater than or equal to 15%, better greater than or equal to 20% by weight, better still greater than or equal to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0142] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more fats other than hydrocarbons with a melting point above 25°C in a total content of 10 to 60% by weight, preferably 12 to 50% by weight, more preferably 15 to 40% by weight, better 20 to 35% by weight, even better 25 to 35% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0143] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more liquid fats in a total content of 10 to 60% by weight, preferably 12 to 50% by weight, more preferably 15 to 40% by weight, better 20 to 35% by weight, even better 25 to 35% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0144] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more liquid fats selected from liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms in a total content of 10 to 60% by weight, preferably 12 to 50% by weight, more preferably 15 to 40% by weight, better 20 to 35% by weight, even better 25 to 35% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Direct colorants

[0145] The composition according to the invention comprises one or more direct colorant(s).

[0146] By "direct dye" we mean colored species. These are dyes that will diffuse superficially onto the fiber.

[0147] The direct dye(s) usable according to the invention are chosen from natural direct dyes, synthetic direct dyes, and their mixtures.

[0148] Preferably, the direct dye(s) usable according to the invention are chosen from among ionic direct dyes and non-ionic direct dyes, more particularly from among cationic direct dyes, amphoteric direct dyes, anionic direct dyes, non-ionic direct dyes, and mixtures thereof.

[0149] The term "cationic direct dye" means any dye other than oxidation dyes, commonly called "basic" direct dyes or "basic dyes." They are called basic because of their affinity for acidic substances. In particular, their structure includes at least one endo- or exocyclic cationic or cationizable group. Specifically, the charge may be carried by an aryl or heteroaryl group.

[0150] The term "anionic direct dye" means any direct dye having in its structure at least one CO2R or SO3R substituent, where R denotes a hydrogen atom or a cation from a metal or amine, or an ammonium ion. Anionic direct dyes are commonly called "acid" direct dyes because of their affinity for alkali substances.

[0151] Direct dyes are for example chosen from among benzene, azo, hydrazono, (hetero)aryl, tri(hetero)arylmethane, (poly)methine, carbonyl, azinic, porphyrinic, metalloporphyrinic, quinonic and in particular anthraquinone, indoamine, phthalocyanine, xanthenic direct dyes, natural direct dyes and mixtures thereof.

[0152] Preferably, the direct dyes are chosen from tri(hetero)arylmethane dyes, xanthenic dyes and mixtures thereof, preferably from tri(hetero)arylmethanes, better from triarylmethanes.

[0153] Among the benzene nitro direct dyes, the following may be mentioned: 1,4-diamino-2-nitrobenzene; 1-amino-2-nitro-4-B-hydroxyethylaminobenzene; 1-amino-2-nitro-4-bis([3-hydroxyethyl)-aminobenzene; 1,4-bis(B-hydroxyethylamino)-2-nitrobenzene; 1B-hydroxyethylamino-2-nitro-4-bis-([3-hydroxyethylamino)-benzene; 1-B-hydroxyethylamino-2-nitro-4-aminobenzene; 1-[3-hydroxyethylamino-2-nitro-4-(ethyl)(B-hydroxyethyl)-aminobenzene; 1-amino-3-methyl-4-[3-hydroxyethylamino-6-nitrobenzene; 1-amino-2-nitro-4-[3-hydroxyethylamino-5-chlorobenzene; 1,2-diamino-4-nitrobenzene; l-amino-2-[3-hydroxyethylamino-5-nitrobenzene; 1,2-bis-([3-hydroxyethylamino)-4-nitrobenzene; l-amino-2-tris-(hydroxymethyl)-methylamino-5-nitrobenzene; l-Hydroxy-2-amino-5-nitrobenzene; l-Hydroxy-2-amino-4-nitrobenzene; l-Hydroxy-3-nitro-4-aminobenzene; l-Hydroxy-2-amino-4,6-dinitrobenzene; l-[3-hydroxyethyloxy-2-[3-hydroxyethylamino-5-nitrobenzene; l-Methoxy-2-[3-hydroxyethylamino-5-nitrobenzene;l-[3-hydroxyethyloxy-3-methylamino-4-nitrobenzene; 1-[3,Y-dihydroxypropyloxy-3-methylamino-4-nitrobenzene; l-[3-hydroxyethylamino-4-[3,Y-dihydroxypropyloxy-2-nitrobenzene; 1-[3,Y-dihydroxypropylamino-4-trifluoromethyl-2-nitrobenzene; l-[3-hydroxyethylamino-4-trifluoromethyl-2-nitrobenzene; l-[3-hydroxyethylamino-3-methyl-2-nitrobenzene; l-[3-aminoethylamino-5-methoxy-2-nitrobenzene; l-Hydroxy-2-chloro-6-ethylamino-4-nitrobenzene; l-Hydroxy-2-chloro-6-amino-4-nitrobenzene; l-Hydroxy-6-bis-([3-hydroxyethyl)-amino-3-nitrobenzene; l-[3-hydroxyethylamino-2-nitrobenzene; 1-Hydroxy-4-[3-hydroxyethylamino-3-nitrobenzene. ;

[0154] Among the azo direct dyes, we can cite: Basic Red 51, Basic Orange 31, Disperse Red 17, Acid Yellow 9, Acid Black 1, Basic Red 22, Basic Red 76, Basic Yellow 57, Acid Yellow 36, Acid Orange 7, Acid Red 33, Acid Red 35, Acid Yellow 23, Acid Orange 24, Disperse Black 9, Basic Brown 16, Basic Brown 17.

[0155] Among the hydrazono direct dyes, we can mention: Basic Yellow 87. Among the aryl nitro direct dyes, we can mention: HC Blue 2, HC Yellow 2, HC Red 3, 4-hydroxypropylamino-3-nitrophenol, N,N'-bis-(2-hydroxyethyl)-2-nitro-phenyl enediamine.

[0156] Among the quinone direct dyes, the following may be mentioned: Disperse Red 15, Solvent Violet 13, Acid Violet 43, Disperse Violet 1, Disperse Violet 4, Disperse Blue 1, Disperse Violet 8, Disperse Blue 3, Disperse Red 11, Acid Blue 62, Disperse Blue 7, Basic Blue 22, Disperse Violet 15, Basic Blue 99, as well as the following compounds: 1-N-methylmorpholiniumpropylamino-4-hydroxyanthraquinone, 1-aminopropylamino-4-methylaminoanthraquinone, 1-aminopropylamino-anthraquinone, 5-[3-hydroxyethyl-1,4-diamino-anthraquinone, 2-aminoethylamino-anthraquinone, 1,4-bis-([3,γ-dihydroxypropylamino)-anthraquinone, Acid Blue 25, Acid Blue 43, Acid Blue 78, Acid Blue 129, Acid Blue 138, Acid Blue 140, Acid Blue 251, Acid Green 25, Acid Green 41, Acid Violet 42, Mordant Red 3, Acid Black 48, HC Blue 16.

[0157] Among the azinic direct dyes, we can mention: Basic Blue 17, Basic Red 2. Among the indoamine direct dyes, we can mention: 2-[3-hydroxyethylamino-5-[bis-([3-4'-hydroxyethyl)amino]anilino-l,4-benzoquinone, 2-[3-hydroxyethylamino-5-(2'-methoxy-4'-amino)anilino-l,4-benzoquinone, 3-N(2'-chloro-4'-hydroxy)phenyl-acetylamino-6-methoxy-l,4-benzoquinone imine, 3-N(3'-chloro-4'-methylamino)phenyl-ureido-6-methyl-1,4-benzoquinone imine, 3-[4'-N-(ethyl,carbamylmethyl)-amino]-phenyl-ureido-6-methyl-1,4-benzoquinone imine.

[0158] Among the natural direct dyes we can cite lawsone, juglone, indigo, leuco indigo, indirubin, isatin, hennotannic acid, alizarin, carthamine, morin, purpurine, carminic acid, kermesic acid, laccaic acid, purpurogalline, protocatechaldehyde, curcumin, spinulosin, apigenidin, orceins, carotenoids, betanin, chlorophylls, chlorophyllins, monascus, polyphenols or orthodiphenols.

[0159] Preferably the composition according to the invention comprises one or more direct dye(s) of triarylmethane structure.

[0160] In particular, the triarylmethane colorant(s) of the invention may be anionic, cationic, neutral or zwitterionic.

[0161] Preferably, the direct dye(s) are chosen from triarylmethane dyes of formula (I): A œ C / ^B as well as their addition salts with an acid or a base, organic or mineral, their geometric, optical, tautomeric isomers, and their mesomeric forms, solvates such as hydrates; formula (I) in which A, B and C are identical or different, and represent a (hetero)aryl group such as possibly substituted phenyl, represents a single or double bond.

[0162] Direct dyes of formula (I) can thus be cationic, anionic, non-ionic or zwitterionic.

[0163] According to a particularly preferred embodiment of the invention, the triarylmethane colorant(s) are cationic.

[0164] Preferably, the triarylmethane direct dye(s) according to the invention are cationic dyes of the following formulas (Ha) and (Il'a): as well as its addition salts with an acid or a base, organic or mineral, its geometric, optical, tautomeric isomers, and its mesomeric forms, its solvates such as hydrates:

[0165] Formulas (Ha) and (Il'a) in which: * Ri, R2, R3 and R4, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a (Cl-C6)alkyl group possibly substituted, preferably by a hydroxy group; aryl such as phenyl, Aryl(Cl-C4)alkyl such as benzyl, heteroaryl, heteroaryl(Cl-C4)alkyl, or two groups Rb and R2, and / or R3 and R4, borne by the same nitrogen atom together with the nitrogen atom bearing them form a heterocycloalkyl group possibly substituted such as morpholino, piparazino, piperidino, preferably Rh. R2, R3 and R4, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a (Cl-C4)alkyl group; * R5, R6, R7, R8, R9, Rio, R11, R12, Rb, Ru, Rb, and Ri6, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, a halogen, or a group chosen from i) hydroxy, ii) thiol, iii) amino, iv) (di)(Cl-C4)(alkyl)amino, v) (di)arylamino such as (di)phenylamino, vi) nitro, vii) acylamino (-NR-C(O)R') in which the radical R is a hydrogen atom, a C1-C4 alkyl radical possibly bearing at least one hydroxyl group and the radical R' is a C1-C2 alkyl radical; viii) carbamoyl ((R)2N-C(O)-) in which the radicals R, identical or not, represent a hydrogen atom, a C1-C4 alkyl radical possibly bearing at least one hydroxyl group; ix) carboxylic acid or ester, (-OC(O)R') or (-C(O)OR'), in which the radical R' is a hydrogen atom, or alkyl in C1-C4 possibly bearing at least one hydroxyl group and the radical R' is a C1-C2 alkyl radical; x) alkyl possibly substituted in particular by a hydroxy group; xi) alkylsulfonylamino (R'SO2-NR-) in which the radical R represents a hydrogen atom, a C1-C4 alkyl radical possibly bearing at least one hydroxyl group and the radical R' represents a C1-C4 alkyl radical, a phenyl radical; xii) aminosulfonyl ((R)2N-SO2-) in which the radicals R, identical or not, represent a hydrogen atom, a C1-C4 alkyl radical possibly bearing at least one hydroxyl group, xiii) (Cl-C4)alkoxy, and xiv) (Cl-C4)alkylthio; * Or two radicals carried by two contiguous carbon atoms R5 and R6 and / or R7 and R8, and / or R9 and R10 and / or Ru and Rn and / or Rn and RM and / or Rb and R6 together with the carbon atoms that carry them form a condensed 6-membered aryl or heteroaryl ring, preferably benzo, said ring possibly being further substituted, preferably an unsubstituted benzo ring; * Q represents an anionic counter ion to achieve electroneutrality, preferably chosen from halides such as chloride, bromide, and phosphate.

[0166] According to a preferred embodiment, the triarylmethane dye(s) is / are selected from those of formula (lia) or (II'a), wherein, taken together or separately, -Ri, R2, R3 and R4 represent a hydrogen atom or an (Cl-C4)alkyl group such as methyl or ethyl, - R5, R6, R7, R8, R9, Rio, Ru, Ri2, Rb, Ru, Rb, and R[6 represent a hydrogen atom, a halogen such as chlorine, or a (Cl-C4)alkyl group such as methyl or ethyl, an amino group, a (di)(Cl-C4)(alkyl)amino group and, preferably, at least one of the groups R9, Rio, Ru or R[2 represents a hydrogen atom, a halogen (Cl), or an amino group, or a (Cl-C4)(alkyl)amino or (di)(Cl-C4)(alkyl)amino group, preferably in the para position of the phenyl group.

[0167] Preferably, the direct dye(s) of triarylmethane structure are chosen from Basic Violet 1, Basic Violet 2, Basic Violet 3, Basic Violet 4, Basic Violet 14, Basic Blue 1, Basic Blue 7, Basic Blue 26, Basic Green 1, Basic Blue 77 (also called HC Blue 15), and mixtures thereof.

[0168] According to another embodiment, the triarylmethane structure dye(s) is / are chosen from anionic triarylmethane structure dyes.

[0169] In particular, the anionic direct dye(s) are chosen from the triarylmethane dyes of formulas (Ilb) and (II'b): formulas (Hb) and (H'b) in which: - R33, R34, R35 and R36, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a group chosen from alkyl, possibly substituted aryl and possibly substituted arylalkyl; particularly an alkyl and benzyl group possibly substituted by an (O)mS(O )-, M+ group with M+ and m as defined previously; - R37, R38, R39, R40, R41, R42, R43 and R44, whether identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a group chosen from: alkyl; alkoxy, alkylthio; amino,(di)(alkyl)amino; hydroxy, mercapto; nitro, nitroso; R°-C(X)-X'-, R°-X'-C(X)-, R°-X'-C(X)-X”- with R° representing a hydrogen atom, an alkyl or aryl group; X, X' and X”, identical or different, representing an oxygen, sulfur or NR atom with R representing a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group; (O)2S(O )-, M+ with M+ representing a hydrogen atom or a cationic counter-ion; (O)CO—, M+ with M+ as defined previously; or two contiguous groups R4[ with R42 or R2 with R41 or R41 with R44 together form a fused benzo group: I'; with I' possibly substituted by one or more groups chosen from i) nitro; ii) nitroso; iii) (O)2S(O )-, M+; iv) hydroxy; v) mercapto; vi) (di)(alkyl)amino; vii) R°-C(X)-X'-; viii) R°-X'-C(X)-; ix) R°-X'-C(X)-X”-; with M+, R°, X, X', X” as defined previously.

[0170] In particular, R37 to R40 represent a hydrogen atom, and Ru to R^, identical or different, represent a hydroxy group or (O)2S(O )-, M+; and when R43 with R^ together form a benzo group, it is preferentially substituted by an (O)2S(O )- group, it being understood that at least one of the rings G, H, I or I' comprises at least one sulfonate radical (O)2S(O )- or a carboxylate radical -C(O)O-; preferably sulfonate.

[0171] Examples of colorants of formulas (Ilb) and (Il'b) include: Acid Blue 1; Acid Blue 3; Acid Blue 7, Acid Blue 9; Acid Violet 49; Acid green 3; Acid green 5; Acid Green 50; Tetrabromophenol Blue.

[0172] Preferably, the composition comprises one or more direct dye(s) of triarylmethane structure selected from Tetrabromophenol Blue, Basic 77 (HC Blue 15) and their mixtures, preferably Tetrabromophenol Blue.

[0173] Preferably the composition according to the invention comprises one or more direct dye(s) derived from xanthene of formula (III): FU Î3 d

[0174] formula (III) wherein: * R45, R46, R47 and R48, whether identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a halogen atom; * R49, R50, R51 and R52, whether identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, a halogen atom, or a group chosen from: - alkyl; - alkoxy, alkylthio; - hydroxy, mercapto; - nitro, nitroso; - (O)2S(O )-, M+ with M+ representing a hydrogen atom or a cationic counter-ion; - (O)CO -, M+ with M+ as defined previously; in particular R53, R54, R55 and R48 represent a hydrogen or halogen atom; * G represents an oxygen atom, sulfur atom or an NR group with R representing a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group; particularly G represents an oxygen atom; * L represents an alkoxide O, M+; a thioalkoxide S, M+ or an NRf group, with Rf representing a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group, and M+ as defined previously; M+ is particularly sodium or potassium; * L' represents an oxygen atom, sulfur atom or ammonium group: N+ RfRg, with Rf and Rg, identical or different, representing a hydrogen atom, an alkyl group, aryl group possibly substituted; L' particularly represents an oxygen atom or a phenylamino group possibly substituted by one or more alkyl groups or (O)mS(O )-, M+ with m and M+ as defined previously; * Q and Q', whether identical or different, represent an oxygen or sulfur atom; particularly Q and Q' represent an oxygen atom; * M+ is as defined previously.

[0175] Examples of colorants of formula (III) include: Acid Yellow 73; Acid Red 51; Acid Red 52, Acid Red 87; Acid Red 92 (D&C Red 28); Acid Red 95; Acid Violet 9.

[0176] Preferably, the composition comprises one or more direct dye(s) derived from xanthene selected from Acid Red 92 (D&C Red 28), Acid Red 52 and their mixtures, preferably Acid Red 92 (D&C Red 28).

[0177] According to a preferred embodiment, the direct dyes are chosen from halogenated direct dyes, preferably having at least one halogenated aromatic ring, preferably at least one halogenated aryl group, more preferably at least one halogenated phenyl group. The halogen atoms are chosen from fluorine, chlorine, bromine, iodine and astatine, preferably from chlorine and bromine.

[0178] Halogenated direct dyes, preferably comprising at least one halogenated aromatic ring, can be chosen from all the different families of direct dyes, preferably from xanthene-derived direct dyes, triarylmethane dyes, azo dyes, and mixtures thereof.

[0179] Preferably, halogenated direct dyes, preferably comprising at least one halogenated aromatic ring, are selected from xanthene-derived direct dyes, triarylmethane dyes and mixtures thereof.

[0180] Among the direct dyes derived from xanthene comprising at least one halogenated aromatic ring, the following may be mentioned: - D&C Red 28 (or Acid Red 92; Phloxine B; 3,4,5,6-tetrachloro-2-(l,4,5,8-tetrabromo-6-hydroxy-3-oxoxanthen-9-yl)benzoic acid), - D&C Red 27 (ou Phloxine O ; 2',4',5',7'-tetrabromo-4,5,6,7-tetrachloro-3',6'-dihydroxy spiro [2-benzofuran-3,9'-xanthene] -1 -on), - Eosin Y (ou Acid Red 87 ; 2-(2,4,5,7-tetrabromo-6-oxido-3-oxo-3H-xanthen-9-yl)benzoate), - Eosin B (ou Acid Red 91 ; 4',5'-dibromo-3',6'-dihydroxy-2',7'-dinitro-l-spiro [isobenzofuran-3,9'-xanthene] on), - Erythrosine B (ou Acid Red 51 ; 2-(6-hydroxy-2,4,5,7-tetraiodo-3-oxo-xanthen-9-yl)benzoic acid), - Rose Bengal, (ou Acid Red 94 ; 4,5,6,7-Tetrachloro-3',6'-dihydroxy-2',4',5',7'-tetraiodo-3H-spiro[[2]benzofuran-l,9'-xanthen]-3-one).

[0181] Parmi les colorants directs triarylméthane comprenant au moins un cycle aromatique halogéné, on citera : - Tetrabromophenol Blue (ou 3,3-Bis(3,5-dibromo-4-hydroxyphenyl)-2,lX6-benzoxathiole-1,1 (3H)-dione), - Tetrabromo-sulfonephthalein (ou 3,4,5,6-tetrabromophenol-sulfonephthalein), - Bromsulphthalein (or Sulfobromo-phthalein; Disodium 3,3'-(4,5,6,7-tetrabromo-3-oxo-2-benzofuran-1,1 (3H)-diyl)bis(6-hydroxybenzene-1 -sulfonate), - Bromocresol Green (or BCG; 3,3-Bis(3,5-dibromo-4-hydroxy-2-methylphenyl)- 2, lX6-benzoxathiole-1,1 (3H)-dione), - Bromothymol Blue (or Bromothymol sulfone phthalein; 3,3-Bis[3-bromo-4-hydroxy-2-methyl-5-(propan-2-yl)phenyl] -2,1 X6-benzoxathiole-1,1 (3H)-dione) - Basic Blue 77 (or HC Blue 15).

[0182] Preferably, the composition comprises one or more direct dyes selected from anionic direct dyes and cationic direct dyes, preferably from anionic direct dyes.

[0183] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more direct dye(s) selected from triarylmethane structure direct dyes, xanthene-derived direct dye(s) and mixtures thereof, preferably from triarylmethane structure direct dyes, preferably from anionic and cationic triarylmethane structure direct dyes, preferably again from anionic triarylmethane structure direct dyes.

[0184] Preferably, the composition comprises one or more direct dye(s) selected from halogenated direct dyes, preferably having at least one halogenated aromatic ring.

[0185] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more direct colorant(s) selected from Tetrabromophenol Blue, Basic Blue 77, Acid Red 92 and their mixtures, preferably comprising Tetrabromophenol Blue.

[0186] According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises Tetrabromophenol Blue and Acid Red 92.

[0187] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more direct colorant(s) in a total content ranging from 0.0001 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.0005 to 8% by weight, more preferably from 0.001% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.002 to 3% by weight, more preferably from 0.003 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0188] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more halogenated direct colorant(s), preferably having at least one halogenated aromatic ring, in a total content ranging from 0.0001 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.0005 to 8% by weight, preferably again from 0.001% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.002 to 3% by weight, more preferably from 0.003 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Pigment

[0189] The composition according to the invention may further comprise one or more pigments.

[0190] The term "pigment" means all pigments that contribute colour to the composition. Their solubility in water at 25 °C and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) is less than 0.05% by weight, and preferably less than 0.01% by weight.

[0191] The pigments that can be used are chosen in particular from among the organic and / or mineral pigments known in the technique, in particular those described in Kirk-Othmer's Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology and in Ullmann's Encyclopedia of Industrial Chemistry.

[0192] Pigments can, for example, be chosen from mineral pigments, organic pigments, lacquers, special effect pigments such as mother-of-pearl or glitter, and mixtures thereof, preferably from mineral pigments.

[0193] Examples of mineral pigments useful in the present invention include iron or chromium oxides, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate, ferric blue, and titanium dioxide. Preferably, one or more mineral pigments selected from compounds with the INCI name ultramarine may be used.

[0194] The size of the pigment used in the composition according to the present invention is generally between 5 nm and 200 µm, preferably between 7 nm and 80 µm, and more preferably between 10 nm and 50 µm.

[0195] When present, pigments represent more particularly 0.001% to 10% by weight and preferably 0.005% to 5% by weight of the total weight of the composition. Alkaline agent

[0196] The composition according to the present invention may also include one or more alkali, mineral, organic or hybrid agent(s).

[0197] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more alkali agent(s).

[0198] For the purposes of the present invention, the terms "alkaline agent" and "alkalinizing agent" are used interchangeably.

[0199] The mineral alkalizing agent(s) are preferably chosen among ammonia, alkali carbonates or bicarbonates such as sodium (hydrogen)carbonate and potassium (hydrogen)carbonate, alkali or alkaline earth metal phosphates such as sodium phosphates or potassium phosphates, sodium or potassium hydroxides, alkali or alkaline earth metal silicates or metasilicates such as sodium metasilicate and mixtures thereof.

[0200] The organic alkalizing agent(s) are preferably chosen from alkanolamines, organic amines other than alkanolamines, oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated ethylenediamines, 1,3-diaminopropane, spermine, spermidine and mixtures thereof.

[0201] Alkanolamine means an organic amine comprising a primary, secondary or tertiary amine function, and one or more linear or branched alkyl groups, in C1-C8 bearing one or more hydroxyl radicals.

[0202] Organic amines selected from among alkanolamines such as mono-, di- or tri-alkanolamines, comprising one to three hydroxyalkyl radicals, identical or not, in C1-C4, are particularly suitable for carrying out the invention.

[0203] In particular, the alkanolamine(s) are selected from monoethanolamine (MEA), diethanolamine, triethanolamine, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine, N,N-dimethylethanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol, triisopropanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol, 3-amino-1,2- propanediol, 3-dimethylamino-l,2-propanediol, tris-hydroxymethylamino-methane and their mixtures.

[0204] The organic amine can also be chosen from among heterocyclic organic amines. In particular, in addition to histidine already mentioned among amino acids, examples include pyridine, piperidine, imidazole, triazole, tetrazole, and benzimidazole. The organic amine can also be chosen from amino acid dipeptides. Examples of amino acid dipeptides usable in the present invention include carnosine, anserine, and balenine. The organic amine can also be chosen from compounds containing a guanidine functional group. Examples of amines of this type other than arginine that can be used in the present invention include creatine, creatinine, 1,1-dimethylguanidine, 1,1-diethylguanidine, glycocyamine, metformin, agmatine, n-amidinoalanine, 3-guanidinopropionic acid, 4-guanidinobutyric acid and 2-([amino(imino)methyl]amino)ethane-1-sulfonic acid.)

[0205] In particular, guanidine carbonate or monoethanolamine hydrochloride can be used as hybrid compounds.

[0206] The useful alkali agent(s) according to the invention is / are preferably chosen from alkanolamines such as monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine; ammonia, carbonates or bicarbonates such as sodium (hydrogen)carbonate and potassium (hydrogen)carbonates, alkali or alkaline earth metal silicates or metasilicates such as sodium silicate and metasilicate and mixtures thereof, more preferably from alkali or alkaline earth metal silicates or metasilicates such as sodium silicate and metasilicate and mixtures thereof.

[0207] In a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention is free of ammonia.

[0208] When it includes them, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more alkali agents in a total content ranging, preferably, from 0.1 to 50% by weight, more preferably from 1 to 40% by weight, better from 5 to 35% by weight, even better from 10 to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0209] According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one (meta)silicate. According to this embodiment, the total content of alkali or alkaline earth metal silicate(s) or metasilicate(s), preferably sodium metasilicate or silicate, is preferably from 0.1 to 50% by weight, more preferably from 1 to 40% by weight, better from 5 to 35% by weight, even better from 10 to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0210] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises the fat(s) other than hydrocarbons with a melting point above 25°C and the agent(s) alkaline(s), in such quantity that the weight ratio between the total content of fats other than hydrocarbons with a melting point above 25°C and the total content of alkali agent(s) is greater than or equal to 1.

[0211] In a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises the fat(s) other than hydrocarbons with a melting point above 25°C and the alkali agent(s) selected from alkali or alkaline earth metal silicates or metasilicates, in a quantity such that the weight ratio between the total content of fat(s) other than hydrocarbons with a melting point above 25°C and the alkali agent(s) selected from alkali or alkaline earth metal silicates or metasilicates is greater than or equal to 1. Amino acid-type compounds

[0212] The composition according to the present invention may also include one or more amino acid-type compounds.

[0213] For the purposes of this invention, an amino acid compound is defined as an organic compound comprising one or more carboxylic acid and / or sulfonic acid functions, and one or more amine functions, the amine function(s) being intra-cyclic, possibly in salt form.

[0214] Preferably, the amino acid compound(s) are chosen from amino acid compounds comprising only one or more carboxylic acid functions (i.e., not comprising a sulfonic acid function) and / or their salts. These compounds are also called carboxylic amino acid compounds and are particularly preferred.

[0215] Preferably, the composition according to the present invention comprises one or more amino acid-type compounds selected from the compounds corresponding to formula (IV) below and / or their salts.

[0216] Amino acid type compounds can therefore correspond to the formula (IV): COOH (IV) H — C — N(H)P R in which p is an integer equal to 1 or 2, it being understood that: - when p = 1, R forms with the nitrogen atom a saturated heterocycle comprising 5 to 8 links, preferably 5 links, this cycle being optionally substituted by one or more groups chosen from hydroxyl or (Cl-C4)alkyl; - when p = 2, R represents a hydrogen atom or a (Cl-C12)alkyl group, preferably (Cl-C4)alkyl, linear or branched, saturated, possibly interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups chosen from -S-, -NH- or -C(NH)- and / or possibly substituted by one or more groups chosen from hydroxyl (OH), amino (NH2), -SH, -COOH, -CONH2 or -NH-C(NH)-NH2.

[0217] Preferably, when p = 1, R forms with the nitrogen atom a saturated heterocycle comprising 5 links, this cycle not being substituted.

[0218] Preferably, p=2.

[0219] Preferably, when p = 2, R represents a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched saturated (Cl-C4)alkyl group, optionally interrupted by an -S- heteroatom and / or optionally substituted by one or two groups selected from hydroxyl, amino or -NH-C(NH)-NH2.

[0220] Preferably, p=2 and R represents a hydrogen atom.

[0221] Amino acid type compounds can also be a salt of compound of formula (IV).

[0222] These salts include salts with organic or mineral bases, for example alkali metal salts, such as lithium, sodium, potassium salts; alkaline earth metal salts such as magnesium, calcium and zinc salts.

[0223] Amino acid type compounds may be in the form of an optical isomer of L, D or DL ​​configuration, preferably of L configuration.

[0224] By way of examples according to the present invention of compounds in the form of an optical isomer of configuration L, L-proline, L-methionine, L-serine, L-arginine and L-lysine may be cited.

[0225] Preferably, the amino acid type compound(s) according to the invention are chosen from glycine, proline, methionine, serine, arginine, lysine, their salts (in particular of alkali or alkaline earth metals, or zinc) and their mixtures.

[0226] Preferably, the amino acid type compound(s) according to the invention are chosen from glycine, proline, methionine, serine, arginine, their salts and mixtures thereof.

[0227] Even better, the amino acid type compound is chosen from glycine, its salts (in particular of alkali or alkaline earth metals, or zinc) and mixtures thereof.

[0228] Examples of glycine salts according to the present invention include sodium glycinate, zinc glycinate, calcium glycinate, magnesium glycinate, manganese glycinate and potassium glycinate, preferably sodium glycinate and potassium glycinate.

[0229] Preferably, the amino acid-type compound is glycine.

[0230] The total content of amino acid compound(s) present in the composition according to the invention can range from 0.01% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 4% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% to 3% by weight, better from 0.2% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0231] In particular, the total content of amino carboxylic acid type compound(s) in the composition according to the invention can range from 0.01% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 4% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% to 3% by weight, better from 0.2% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0232] Better still, the total content of amino acid type compound(s) selected from glycine, proline, methionine, serine, arginine, lysine, their salts and mixtures, in the composition according to the invention can range from 0.01% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 4% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% to 3% by weight, better from 0.2% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0233] In particular, the total content of amino acid type compound(s) selected from glycine, its salts and mixtures thereof, in the composition according to the invention may range from 0.01% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 4% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% to 3% by weight, better from 0.2% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0234] Even better, the glycine content in the composition according to the invention can range from 0.01% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 4% by weight, preferably still from 0.1% to 3% by weight, better from 0.2% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. (Poly)carboxylic acids

[0235] The composition according to the invention may further comprise one or more (poly)carboxylic acids, different from the amino acid type compounds previously described, one of their salts or mixtures thereof.

[0236] Preferably, the (poly)carboxylic acid(s) is / are chosen from the (poly)carboxylic acid(s) of the following formula (V):

[0237] Formula (V) wherein:

[0238] - n is an integer between 0 and 10, better between 1 and 5, even better between 1 and 3, preferably n=1 or 2, preferably n=2; - A is a monovalent hydrocarbon group (when n=0) or multivalent (when n is different from 0), saturated or unsaturated, linear, branched, cyclic, or even aromatic, comprising 1 to 6 carbon atoms, better 1 to 4 carbon atoms possibly substituted by one or more hydroxy groups (OH).

[0239] Preferably, A is a monovalent or multivalent (Cl-C4)alkylene group, better (C2-C4)alkylene, or phenylene, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxy groups.

[0240] Preferably, the (poly)carboxylic acids of formula (V) are alpha-hydroxy acids, for which A is a (Cl-C4)alkylene group, better (C2-C4)alkylene, or phenylene, substituted by 1 or 2 hydroxy groups, preferably 1 hydroxy group; and n = 0 to 2.

[0241] In particular, cite carboxylic acids of formula (V) in which: - n=0 and A is a monovalent (Cl-C4)alkyl group, in particular (C2-C4)alkyl, possibly substituted by one or more hydroxy (OH) groups, in particular 1 or 2 OH, preferably 1 OH; - n=0 and A is a phenyl radical substituted by 1 OH radical; or - n = 1 or 2, and A is a di- or trivalent (Cl-C6)alkyl group, better (C2-C4)alkyl, substituted by one or more hydroxy groups, in particular 1 or 2 OH, preferably 1 OH.

[0242] Preferably, the (poly)carboxylic acids may be selected from: - citric acid (n=2 and trivalent A = -CH2-CHOH-CH2- ) ; - salicylic acid (n=0 and A = phenyl substituted by an OH); - lactic acid (n=0 and monovalent A = -CH(OH)CH3); and - tartaric acid (n=l and A divalent = -CH(OH)-CH(OH)-).

[0243] Even more preferably, the (poly)carboxylic acid is citric acid.

[0244] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more (poly)carboxylic acids, different from the amino acid type compounds previously described, one of their salts or mixtures thereof, preferably one or more (poly)carboxylic acids of formula (V), one of their salts or mixtures thereof, better citric acid and / or one of its salts.

[0245] When it includes them, the composition according to the invention preferably comprises one or more (poly)carboxylic acids and / or one of their salts in a total quantity ranging from 0.01 to 10% by weight, better ranging from 0.1% to 8% by weight, and even better from 0.3% to 7% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 6% by weight, or even from 1 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0246] In a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises citric acid in a total amount from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 8% by weight, and even better from 0.3% to 7% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 6% by weight, or even from 1 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Associative polymers

[0247] The composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one associative polymer.

[0248] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more associative polymers.

[0249] It is recalled that "associative polymers" are polymers capable, in an aqueous medium, of reversibly associating with each other or with other molecules.

[0250] Their chemical structure includes more particularly at least one hydrophilic zone and at least one hydrophobic zone.

[0251] By "hydrophobic group" is meant a hydrocarbon chain radical or polymer, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, comprising at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 30 carbon atoms and more preferably from 18 to 30 carbon atoms.

[0252] Preferably, the hydrocarbon group is derived from a monofunctional compound. For example, the hydrophobic group may be derived from a fatty alcohol such as stearyl alcohol, dodecyl alcohol, or decyl alcohol. It may also refer to a hydrocarbon polymer such as polybutadiene.

[0253] The associative polymer can be anionic, cationic, amphoteric or non-ionic.

[0254] Among the anionic-type associative polymers, the following may be mentioned:

[0255] - (a) those comprising at least one hydrophilic motif, and at least one ether motif of fatty chain allyl, more particularly those whose hydrophilic motif is made up of an unsaturated ethylenic anionic monomer, more particularly still of a vinylic carboxylic acid and especially of an acrylic acid or a methacrylic acid or mixtures thereof.

[0256] Among these anionic associative polymers, polymers formed from 20 to 60% by weight of acrylic acid and / or methacrylic acid, 5 to 60% by weight of lower alkyl (meth)acrylates, 2 to 50% by weight of fatty chain allyl ether, and 0 to 1% by weight of a crosslinking agent which is a well-known copolymerizable unsaturated polyethylene monomer, such as diallyl phthalate, allyl (meth)acrylate, divinylbenzene, (poly)ethylene glycol dimethacrylate, and methylene-bis-acrylamide.

[0257] Among these, crosslinked terpolymers of methacrylic acid, ethyl acrylate, polyethylene glycol (10 OE) stearyl alcohol ether (Steareth 10) are particularly preferred, especially those sold by the company CIBA under the names SALCARE SC80® and SALCARE SC90® which are aqueous emulsions at 30% of a crosslinked terpolymer of methacrylic acid, ethyl acrylate and steareth-10-allyl ether (40 / 50 / 10).

[0258] - (b) those comprising i) at least one hydrophilic motif of the carboxylic acid type unsaturated olefinic, and ii) at least one hydrophobic motif of the alkyl (C10-C30) ester type of unsaturated carboxylic acid.

[0259] Alkyl (C10-C30) esters of unsaturated carboxylic acids useful to the invention include, for example, lauryl acrylate, stearyl acrylate, decyl acrylate, isodecyl acrylate, dodecyl acrylate, and the corresponding methacrylates, lauryl methacrylate, stearyl methacrylate, decyl methacrylate, isodecyl methacrylate, and dodecyl methacrylate.

[0260] Anionic polymers of this type are described and prepared, for example, according to US patents 3,915,921 and 4,509,949.

[0261] Among this type of anionic associative polymers, more particularly those consisting of 95 to 60% by weight of acrylic acid (hydrophilic motif), 4 to 40% by weight of C10-C30 alkyl acrylate (hydrophobic motif), and 0 to 6% by weight of polymerizable crosslinking monomer, or those consisting of 98 to 96% by weight of acrylic acid (hydrophilic motif), 1 to 4% by weight of C10-C30 alkyl acrylate (hydrophobic motif), and 0.1 to 0.6% by weight of polymerizable crosslinking monomer such as those described above, will be used.

[0262] Among the aforementioned polymers, the products sold by GOODRICH under the trade names PEMULEN TRI®, PEMULEN TR2®, CARBOPOL 1382®, the product sold by LUBRIZOL under the trade name CARBOPOL ETD 2020 POLYMER® (INCI name: ACRYLATES / C10-30 ALKYL ACRYLATE CROSSPOLYMER), the product sold by SEPC under the name COATEX SX®, and even more preferably CARBOPOL ETD 2020 POLYMER®, are particularly preferred according to the present invention.

[0263] We can also mention the acrylic acid / lauryl methacrylate / vinylpyrrolidone terpolymer marketed under the name Acrylidone LM by the ISP Company.

[0264] - (c) maleic anhydride / α-olefin terpolymers in C30-C38 / alkyl maleate such as the product (maleic anhydride / C30-C38 α-olefin / isopropyl maleate copolymer) sold under the name PERFORMA V 1608® by the company NEWPHASE TECHNOLOGIES.

[0265] - (d) acrylic terpolymers comprising: i) about 20 to 70% by weight of an unsaturated α,[3-monoethylenic [α], ii) about 20 to 80% by weight of a non-surfactant α,[3-monoethylenic] unsaturated monomer other than [α], iii) approximately 0.5 to 60% by weight of a non-ionic monourethane which is the reaction product of a monohydric surfactant with a monoethylenically unsaturated monoisocyanate, such as those described in patent application EP-A-0173109 and more particularly the one described in Example 3, namely, a methacrylic acid / acrylate terpolymer of methyl / dimethyl metaisopropenyl benzyl isocyanate of ethoxylated behenyl alcohol (40OE) in aqueous dispersion at 25%.

[0266] - (e) copolymers comprising among their monomers a carboxylic acid unsaturation α,[3-monoethylenic and an ester of carboxylic acid with unsaturation α,[3-monoethylenic and an oxyalkylated fatty alcohol.

[0267] Preferably these compounds also comprise as a monomer an ester of α,[3-monoethylenic unsaturation carboxylic acid and C1-C4 alcohol.

[0268] As an example of this type of compound, we can cite ACULYN 22® sold by ROHM and HAAS, which is a methacrylic acid / ethyl acrylate / oxyalkylenated stearyl methacrylate terpolymer, as well as ACULYN 88 also sold by ROHM and HAAS, or ACULYN 28® sold by ROHM and HAAS, which is a methacrylic acid / ethyl acrylate / oxyalkylenated behenyl methacrylate terpolymer (INCI name Acrylates / Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Copolymer), as well as NOVETHIX L-10 POLYMER® sold by Lubrizol.

[0269] - (f) Amphiphilic polymers comprising at least one unsaturated monomer ethylenic with a sulfonic group, in free form or partially or totally neutralized and comprising at least one hydrophobic portion. These polymers may be crosslinked or non-crosslinked. They are preferably crosslinked.

[0270] Monomers with ethylenic unsaturation and a sulfonic group are selected in particular from vinylsulfonic acid, styrenesulfonic acid, (meth)acrylamido(Cl-C22)alkylsulfonic acids, N-(C1-C22)alkyl(meth)acrylamido-(Cl-C22)alkylsulfonic acids such as undecyl-acrylamido-methane-sulfonic acid and their partially or totally neutralized forms.

[0271] More preferably, alkylsulfonic (meth)acrylamido(Cl-C22) acids will be used, such as, for example, acrylamido-methane-sulfonic acid, acrylamido-ethane-sulfonic acid, acrylamido-propane-sulfonic acid, 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropane-sulfonic acid, methacrylamido-2-methylpropane-sulfonic acid, 2-acrylamido-n-butane-sulfonic acid, 2-acrylamido-2,4,4-trimethylpentane-sulfonic acid, 2-methacrylamido-dodecyl-sulfonic acid, 2-acrylamido-2,6-dimethyl-3-heptane-sulfonic acid, as well as their partially or totally neutralized forms.

[0272] In particular, 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid (AMPS) and its partially or totally neutralized forms will be used.

[0273] Polymers of this family may in particular be selected from statistical amphiphilic AMPS polymers modified by reaction with an n-monoalkylamine or a di-n-alkylamine at C6-C22, and such as those described in patent application WO 00 / 31154 (forming an integral part of the content of the description). These polymers may also contain other hydrophilic ethylenically unsaturated monomers chosen for example from (meth)acrylic acids, their [3]-substituted alkyl derivatives or their esters obtained with monoalcohols or mono- or poly-alkylene glycols, (meth)acrylamides, vinylpyrrolidone, maleic anhydride, itaconic acid or maleic acid or mixtures of these compounds.

[0274] Preferred polymers of this family are chosen from among amphiphilic copolymers of AMPS and at least one hydrophobic monomer with ethylenic unsaturation.

[0275] These same copolymers may further contain one or more ethylenically unsaturated monomers without a fatty chain such as (meth)acrylic acids, their [3]-substituted alkyl derivatives or their esters obtained with monoalcohols or mono- or poly-alkylene glycols, (meth)acrylamides, vinylpyrrolidone, maleic anhydride, itaconic acid or maleic acid or mixtures of these compounds.

[0276] These copolymers are described in particular in patent application EP-A-750899, US patent 5089578 and in the following publications by Yotaro Morishima: - “Self-assembling amphiphilic polyelectrolytes and their nanostructures - Chinese Journal of Polymer Science Vol. 18, No. 40, (2000), 323-336.”; - « Miscelle formation of random copolymers of sodium 2-(acrylamido)-2-methylpropanesulfonate and a non-ionic surfactant macromonomer in water as studied by fluorescence and dynamic light scattering - Macromolecules, Vol. 33, N° 10 (2000), 3694-3704 » ; - « Solution properties of miscelle networks formed by non-ionic moieties covalently bound to an polyelectrolyte : sait effects on rheological behavior - Langmuir,, Vol. 16, N°12, (2000) 5324-5332» ; - « Stimuli responsive amphiphilic copolymers of sodium 2-(acrylamido)-2-methylpropanesulfonate and associative macromonomers - Polym. Preprint, Div. Polym. Chem., 40(2), (1999), 220-221».

[0277] Parmi ces polymères, on peut citer : - crosslinked or non-crosslinked copolymers, neutralized or not, comprising 15 to 60% by weight of AMPS motifs and 40 to 85% by weight of (C8-C16)alkyl(meth)acrylamide or (C8-C16)alkyl(meth)acrylate motifs relative to the polymer, such as those described in application EP-A750 899; - terpolymers comprising 10 to 90 mole percent of acrylamide motifs, 0.1 to 10 mole percent of AMPS motifs and 5 to 80 mole percent of n-(C6-C18)alkylacrylamide motifs, such as those described in US patent 5089578.

[0278] Other examples include copolymers of totally neutralized AMPS and dodecyl methacrylate, as well as copolymers of AMPS and n- non-crosslinked and crosslinked dodecylmethacrylamide, such as those described in the Morishima articles cited above.

[0279] Among the anionic associative polymers according to the invention, preferred are polymers comprising i) at least one hydrophilic motif of the type of olefinic unsaturated carboxylic acid, and ii) at least one hydrophobic motif of the type of alkyl (C10-C30) ester of unsaturated carboxylic acid (family b)), and copolymers comprising among their monomers an α,[3-monoethylenic unsaturation carboxylic acid and an ester of an α,[3-monoethylenic unsaturation carboxylic acid and an oxyalkylened fatty alcohol (family e)).

[0280] Among cationic associative polymers, the following may be mentioned:

[0281] (a) cationic associative polyurethanes;

[0282] (b) the compound marketed by NOVEON under the name AQUA CC and which corresponds to the INCI name POLYACRYLATE-1 CROSSPOLYMER.

[0283] POLYACRYLATE-1 CROSSPOLYMER is the product of the polymerization of a mixture of monomers comprising: a di(C1-C4)amino(C1-C6) methacrylate, one or more C1-C30 alkyl esters and (meth)acrylic acid, a polyethoxylated C10-C30 alkyl methacrylate (20-25 moles of ethylene oxide motif), a 30 / 5 polyethylene glycol / polypropylene glycol allyl ether, a C2-C6 hydroxy(alkyl) methacrylate, and a diethylene glycol methacrylate.

[0284] (c) the (poly)hydroxyethylcelluloses quantified and modified by groups comprising at least one fatty chain, such as alkyl, arylalkyl, or alkylaryl groups with at least 8 carbon atoms, or mixtures thereof. The alkyl radicals present in the quaternized celluloses or hydroxyethylcelluloses described above preferably have from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. The aryl radicals preferably refer to phenyl, benzyl, naphthyl, or anthryl groups. Examples of quaternized alkylhydroxyethylcelluloses with C8-C30 fatty chains include QUATRISOFT LM 200®, QUATRISOFT LM-X 529-18-A®, QUATRISOFT LM-X 529-18-B® (C12 alkyl) and QUATRISOFT LM-X 529-8® (C18 alkyl) products sold by AQUALON, CRODACEL QM®, CRODACEL QL® (C12 alkyl) and CRODACEL QS® (Cl8 alkyl) products sold by CRODA, and SOFTCAT SL 100® product sold by AQUALON.

[0285] (d) cationic polyvinyllactam polymers.

[0286] Such polymers are described for example in patent application WO-00 / 68282.

[0287] As cationic poly(vinyllactam) polymers according to the invention, the following are used in particular: vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide / dodecyldimethylmethacrylamide tosylate terpolymers, vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide / cocoyldimethyl-methacrylamide tosylate terpolymers, vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylamino-propylmethacrylamide / lauryldimethylmethacrylamide tosylate or lauryldimethylmethacrylamide chloride terpolymers.

[0288] Amphoteric associative polymers are preferably chosen from those comprising at least one non-cyclic cationic motif. More particularly, those prepared from or comprising 1 to 20 moles % of monomer having a fatty chain, and preferably 1.5 to 15 moles % and more particularly 1.5 to 6 moles %, relative to the total number of moles of monomers, are preferred.

[0289] Amphoteric associative polymers according to the invention are for example described and prepared in patent application WO 9844012.

[0290] Among the amphoteric associative polymers according to the invention, the terpolymers acrylic acid / (meth)acrylamidopropyl trimethyl ammonium chloride / stearyl methacrylate are preferred.

[0291] The non-ionic associative polymers usable according to the invention are preferably chosen from:

[0292] (a) copolymers of vinyl pyrrolidone and hydrophobic chain monomers fat, of which we can cite as an example: - ANTARON V216® or GANEX V216® products (vinylpyrrolidone / hexadecene copolymer) sold by the company ISP - ANTARON V220® or GANEX V220® products (vinylpyrrolidone / eicosene copolymer) sold by the company ISP

[0293] (b) copolymers of C1-C6 alkyl methacrylates or acrylates and Amphiphilic monomers containing at least one fatty chain, such as, for example, the methyl acrylate / oxyethylenated stearyl acrylate copolymer sold by GOLDSCHMIDT under the name ANTIL 208®. Or the copolymer with the INCI name "acrylates / beheneth-25 methacrylate copolymer", such as the product Novethix L-10 polymer from Lubrizol.

[0294] (c) copolymers of methacrylates or hydrophilic acrylates and monomers hydrophobics comprising at least one fatty chain such as, for example, polyethylene glycol methacrylate / lauryl methacrylate copolymer.

[0295] (d) polyether polyurethanes comprising in their chain both sequences hydrophilic, most often of a polyoxyethylenated nature, and hydrophobic sequences which can be aliphatic chains alone and / or cycloaliphatic and / or aromatic chains.

[0296] (e) aminoplast ether backbone polymers having at least one chain oily, such as the PURE THIX® compounds offered by the company SUD-CHEMIE.

[0297] (f) celluloses or their derivatives, modified by groups comprising at minus a fatty chain such as alkyl, arylalkyl, alkylaryl groups or mixtures thereof where the alkyl groups are in C8- and in particular: * non-ionic alkylhydroxyethylcelluloses such as the products NATROSOL PLUS GRADE 330 CS and POLYSURF 67 (alkyl in Cl6) sold by the company AQUALON; * non-ionic nonoxynylhydroxyethylcelluloses such as the AMERCELL HM-1500 product sold by the company AMERCHOL; * non-ionic alkylcelluloses such as the product BERMOCOLL EHM 100 sold by the company BEROL NOBEL;

[0298] (g) associative guar derivatives such as hydroxypropyl guars modified by a fat chain such as the product ESAFLOR HM 22 (modified by an alkyl chain in C22) sold by the company LAMBERTI; the product MIRACARE XC 95-3 (modified by an alkyl chain in Cl4) and the product RE 205-146 (modified by an alkyl chain in C20) sold by RHODIA CHIMIE.

[0299] Preferably, the polyurethane polyethers comprise at least two lipophilic hydrocarbon chains, having from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, separated by a hydrophilic sequence. The hydrocarbon chains may be dangling chains or end chains of the hydrophilic sequence. In particular, one or more dangling chains may be provided. Furthermore, the polymer may comprise a hydrocarbon chain at one or both ends of a hydrophilic sequence.

[0300] Polyurethane polyethers can be multi-sequenced, particularly in triblock form. The hydrophobic sequences can be at each end of the chain (e.g., a triblock copolymer with a hydrophilic central sequence) or distributed both at the ends and throughout the chain (e.g., a multi-sequenced copolymer). These same polymers can also be in graft or star form.

[0301] Nonionic fatty-chain polyurethane polyethers can be triblock copolymers in which the hydrophilic sequence is a polyoxyethylenated chain comprising 50 to 1000 oxyethylenated groups. Nonionic polyurethane polyethers have a urethane bond between the hydrophilic sequences, hence the origin of the name.

[0302] By extension, non-ionic fatty chain polyurethane polyethers also include those whose hydrophilic sequences are linked to lipophilic sequences by other chemical bonds.

[0303] As examples of non-ionic fat chain polyurethane polyethers usable in the invention, Rhéolate 205® with urea function sold by the company RHEOX or Rhéolates® 208, 204 or 212, as well as Acrysol RM 184®, can also be used.

[0304] We can also mention the ELFACOS T210® product with Cl2-14 alkyl chain and the ELFACOS T212® product with C18 alkyl chain from AKZO.

[0305] The product DW 1206B® from ROHM & HAAS with a C20 alkyl chain and urethane bond, offered at 20% dry matter in water, can also be used.

[0306] Solutions or dispersions of these polymers can also be used, particularly in water or in hydroalcoholic media. For example, RHEOLATE® 255, RHEOLATE® 278, and RHEOLATE® 244, sold by RHEOX, are examples of such polymers. DW 1206F and DW 1206J, offered by ROHM & HAAS, can also be used.

[0307] Polyurethane polyethers usable according to the invention are in particular those described in the article by G. Fonnum, J. Bakke and Fk. Hansen - Colloid Polym. Sci 271, 380-389 (1993).

[0308] More particularly, a polyurethane polyether is preferred, which can be obtained by polycondensation of at least three compounds comprising (i) at least one polyethylene glycol comprising 150 to 180 moles of ethylene oxide, (ii) stearyl alcohol or decyl alcohol and (iii) at least one diisocyanate.

[0309] Such polyether polyurethanes are sold in particular by the company ROHM & HAAS under the names ACULYN 46® and ACULYN 44® [ACULYN 46® is a polyethylene glycol polycondensate with 150 or 180 moles of ethylene oxide, stearyl alcohol and methylene bis(4-cyclohexyl-isocyanate) (SMDI), at 15% by weight in a matrix of maltodextrin (4%) and water (81%); ACULYN 44® is a polyethylene glycol polycondensate with 150 or 180 moles of ethylene oxide, decyl alcohol and methylene bis(4-cyclohexylisocyanate) (SMDI), at 35% by weight in a mixture of propylene glycol (39%) and water (26%)].

[0310] Preferably, the associative polymer(s) are chosen from anionic associative polymers.

[0311] Preferably, the associative polymer(s) is or are chosen from acrylic or methacrylic acid copolymers.

[0312] Preferably, the associative polymer(s) is / are chosen from polymers comprising i) at least one hydrophilic carboxylic acid type motif unsaturated olefinic, and ii) at least one hydrophobic motif of the type alkyl (C10-C30) ester of unsaturated carboxylic acid, copolymers comprising among their monomers an α,[3-monoethylenic unsaturated carboxylic acid and an ester of an α,[3-monoethylenic unsaturated carboxylic acid and an oxyalkylated fatty alcohol, and mixtures thereof.

[0313] When it includes them, the composition preferably includes one or more associative polymer(s) in a total content ranging from 0.01 to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.05 to 10% by weight, better from 0.1 to 8% by weight, even better from 0.2 to 5% by weight, or even from 0.3 to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0314] When it includes them, the composition comprises one or more associative polymer(s) selected from anionic associative polymers, preferably from acrylic or methacrylic acid copolymers, preferably in a total content of 0.01 to 15% by weight, more preferably 0.05 to 10% by weight, better 0.1 to 8% by weight, even better 0.2 to 5% by weight, or even 0.3 to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Non-associative polysaccharides

[0315] The composition according to the invention may also include one or more non-associative polysaccharides, which are therefore different from the associative polymers above.

[0316] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more non-associative polysaccharides.

[0317] In the present invention, "polysaccharide" means a polymer consisting of sugar units. "Sugar unit" means an oxygenated hydrocarbon compound having several alcohol functional groups, with or without aldehyde or ketone functional groups, and comprising at least four carbon atoms. The sugar units may optionally be modified by substitution, and / or by oxidation, and / or by dehydration.

[0318] The sugar motifs that can be included in the composition of the polysaccharides of the invention are preferably derived from the following sugars: glucose; galactose; arabinose; rhamnose; mannose; xylose; fucose; anhydrogalactose; galacturonic acid; glucuronic acid; mannuronic acid; galactose sulfate; anhydrogalactose sulfate and fructose.

[0319] The following polymers, alone or in mixtures, may be cited in particular as examples of non-associative polysaccharides: a) exudates from trees or shrubs, including: - gum arabic (branched polymer of galactose, arabinose, rhamnose and glucuronic acid); - Ghatti gum (polymer derived from arabinose, galactose, mannose, xylose and glucuronic acid); - karaya gum (polymer derived from galacturonic acid, galactose, rhamnose and glucuronic acid); - tragacanth gum (or tragacanth gum) (polymer of galacturonic acid, galactose, fucose, xylose and arabinose); b) gums derived from algae, including: - agar (polymer derived from galactose and anhydrogalactose); - alginates (polymers of mannuronic acid and glucuronic acid); - carrageenans and furcelleranes (polymers of galactose sulfate and anhydrogalactose sulfate); c) gums from seeds or tubers, including: - guar gum (polymer of mannose and galactose); - carob gum (polymer of mannose and galactose); - fenugreek gum (polymer of mannose and galactose); - tamarind gum (polymer of galactose, xylose and glucose); - konjac gum (polymer of glucose and mannose); d) microbial gums, including: - xanthan gum (polymer of glucose, mannose acetate, mannose / pyruvic acid and glucuronic acid); - gellan gum (polymer of partially acylated glucose, rhamnose and glucuronic acid); - scleroglucan gum (glucose polymer); e) polymers extracted from plants, including: - celluloses (polymers of glucose); - starches (polymers of glucose) and - inulin.

[0320] These polymers can be modified physically or chemically. Physical treatments include, in particular, heat treatment. Chemical treatments include esterification, etherification, amidation, and oxidation reactions. These treatments lead to polymers that can be, in particular, nonionic, anionic, or amphoteric.

[0321] In particular, guar gums, locust bean gums, starches and celluloses can be modified / treated.

[0322] The guar gums usable according to the invention can be modified by C1-C6 (poly)hydroxylakyl groups. Examples of C1-C6 (poly)hydroxyalkyl groups include hydroxymethyl, hydroxyethyl, hydroxypropyl, and hydroxybutyl groups. These gums The modifications of guar gum are well known in the prior art and can, for example, be prepared by reacting corresponding alkene oxides, such as propylene oxides, with guar gum to obtain guar gum modified with hydroxypropyl groups. The degree of hydroxyalkylation preferably ranges from 0.4 to 1.2 and corresponds to the number of alkylene oxide molecules consumed per number of free hydroxyl groups present on the guar gum.

[0323] Such guar gums possibly modified by hydroxyalkyl groups are for example sold under the trade names JAGUAR HP8, JAGUAR HP60 and JAGUAR HP120 by the company RHODIA CHIMIE.

[0324] The starches usable in the present invention may be of botanical origin from cereals or tubers. Thus, the starches are chosen, for example, from corn, rice, oat, cassava, barley, potato, wheat, sorghum, pea, and tapioca starches. Hydrolysates of the starches mentioned above may also be used. The starch is preferably derived from potato.

[0325] Preferably, starch phosphates will be used, in particular distarch phosphates or compounds rich in distarch phosphate such as the product offered under the references PREJEL VA-70-T AGGL (gelatinized hydroxypropyl cassava distarch phosphate) or PREJEL TK1 (gelatinized cassava distarch phosphate) or PREJEL 200 (gelatinized acetylated cassava distarch phosphate) by the AVEBE Company or STRUCTURE ZEA of NATIONAL STARCH (gelatinized maize distarch phosphate).

[0326] According to the invention, amphoteric starches can also be used; these amphoteric starches comprise one or more anionic groups and one or more cationic groups. The anionic and cationic groups may be linked to the same reactive site of the starch molecule or to different reactive sites; preferably, they are linked to the same reactive site. The anionic groups may be of the carboxylic, phosphate, or sulfate type, and preferably carboxylic. The cationic groups may be of the primary, secondary, tertiary, or quaternary amine type.

[0327] The polysaccharides that can be used according to the invention can be cellulosic polymers.

[0328] By "cellulosic" polymer, according to the invention, any polysaccharide compound having in its structure chains of glucose residues joined by [3-1,4] bonds; in addition to unsubstituted celluloses, cellulose derivatives can be anionic, cationic, amphoteric or non-ionic.

[0329] Cellulosic polymers are also called celluloses.

[0330] Thus, the cellulosic polymers usable according to the invention can be chosen from unsubstituted celluloses including in microcrystalline form and cellulose ethers.

[0331] Among these cellulosic polymers, we distinguish cellulose ethers, cellulose esters and cellulose ether esters.

[0332] Among cellulose esters are inorganic cellulose esters (cellulose nitrates, sulfates, or phosphates...), organic cellulose esters (cellulose monoacetates, triacetates, amidopropionates, acetatebutyrates, acetatepropionates, or acetatetrimellitates), and mixed organic / inorganic cellulose esters such as cellulose acetatebutyrates and acetatepropionates. Examples of cellulose ether esters include hydroxypropylmethylcellulose phthalates and ethylcellulose sulfates.

[0333] Among the cellulose ethers, we can mention (Cl-C4)alkylcelluloses such as methylcelluloses and ethylcelluloses (for example Ethocel standard 100 Premium from DOW CHEMICAL); (poly)hydroxy(Cl-C4)alkylcelluloses such as hydroxymethylcelluloses, hydroxyethylcelluloses (for example Natrosol 250 HHR offered by ASHLAND) and hydroxypropylcelluloses (for example Klucel EF from AQUALON); mixed celluloses (poly)hydroxy(Cl-C4)alkyl-(Cl-C4)alkylcelluloses such as hydroxypropyl-methylcelluloses (for example Methocel E4M from DOW CHEMICAL), hydroxyethyl-methylcelluloses, hydroxyethyl-ethylcelluloses (for example Bermocoll E 481 FQ from AKZO NOBEL) and hydroxybutyl-methylcelluloses.

[0334] Among the anionic cellulose ethers, mention may be made of (poly)carboxy(Cl-C4)alkylcelluloses and their salts. By way of example, mention may be made of carboxymethylcelluloses, carboxymethylmethylcelluloses (for example Blanose 7M from the company AQUALON) and carboxymethylhydroxyethylcelluloses and their sodium salts.

[0335] Among cationic cellulose ethers, cationic cellulose derivatives such as cellulose copolymers or cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer, and described in particular in US patent 4,131,576, may be cited, such as (poly)hydroxy(Cl-C4)alkyl celluloses, like hydroxymethyl-, hydroxyethyl-, or hydroxypropyl celluloses grafted in particular with a salt of methacryloylethyl trimethylammonium, methacrylmidopropyl trimethylammonium, or dimethyl-diallylammonium. The marketed products meeting this definition are more specifically the products sold under the names "Celquat® L 200" and "Celquat® H 100" by the National Starch Company.

[0336] Preferably, the non-associative polysaccharide(s) are chosen from, alone or in mixture, celluloses, guar gums, starches, preferably from celluloses.

[0337] Better still, the non-associative polysaccharides are chosen from, alone or in mixture, cellulose ethers, cellulose esters and cellulose ether esters, and preferably from cellulose ethers.

[0338] In a particularly preferred manner, the non-associative polysaccharide(s) are selected from (Cl-C4)alkylcelluloses such as methylcelluloses and ethylcelluloses; (poly)hydroxy(Cl-C4)alkylcelluloses such as hydroxymethylcelluloses, hydroxyethylcelluloses and hydroxypropylcelluloses; mixed (poly)hydroxy(Cl-C4)alkyl-(Cl-C4)alkylcelluloses such as hydroxypropyl-methylcelluloses, hydroxyethyl-methylcelluloses, hydroxyethyl-ethylcelluloses and hydroxybutyl-methylcelluloses.

[0339] When it includes them, the composition according to the invention comprises the non-associative polysaccharide(s) in a total quantity preferably ranging from 0.01 to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.05 to 10% by weight, better from 0.1 to 8% by weight, even better from 0.2 to 5% by weight, or even from 0.3 to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition according to the invention.

[0340] When it includes them, the composition according to the invention comprises the non-associative polysaccharide(s) selected from cellulosic polymers in a total quantity preferably ranging from 0.01 to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.05 to 10% by weight, better from 0.1 to 8% by weight, even better from 0.2 to 5% by weight, or even from 0.3 to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition according to the invention.

[0341] When it includes them, the composition according to the invention comprises the non-associative polysaccharide(s) selected from cellulose ethers in a total quantity preferably ranging from 0.01 to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.05 to 10% by weight, better from 0.1 to 8% by weight, even better from 0.2 to 5% by weight, or even from 0.3 to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition according to the invention. Surfactants

[0342] The composition according to the present invention may also include one or more surfactants.

[0343] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more surfactants.

[0344] These may preferably be chosen from anionic surfactants, amphoteric surfactants, non-ionic surfactants, cationic surfactants and / or mixtures thereof.

[0345] The term "anionic surfactant" means a surfactant comprising only anionic groups as ionic or ionizable groups. These anionic groups are preferably chosen from among the following groups: CO2H, CO2, SO3H, SO3, OSO3H, OSO3, H2PO3, HPO3, PO32, H2PO2, HPO2, PO22, POH and PO.

[0346] By way of examples of anionic surfactants usable in the composition according to the invention, mention may be made of alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkylamidoethersulfates, alkylarylpolyethersulfates, monoglyceride sulfates, alkylsulfonates, alkylamide sulfonates, alkylarylsulfonates, alpha-olefin sulfonates, paraffin sulfonates, alkylsulfosuccinates, alkylethersulfosuccinates, alkylamide sulfosuccinates, alkylsulfoacetates, acylsarcosinates, acylglutamates, alkylsulfosuccinamates, acylisethionates and N-alkyl(Cl-C4)-N-acyltaurates, salts of alkyl monoesters and polyglycoside-polycarboxylic acids, acylactylates, D-galactoside-uronic acid salts, alkyl ether-carboxylic acid salts, alkyl aryl ether-carboxylic acid salts, alkyl amidoether-carboxylic acid salts; and the corresponding non-salted forms of all these compounds;The alkyl and acyl groups of all these compounds (unless otherwise stated) generally consist of 6 to 24 carbon atoms, and the aryl group generally designates a phenyl group.

[0347] Among anionic surfactants, we can also mention fatty acid salts, especially C8-C24, preferably C12-C20, different from the (poly)carboxylic acids previously described.

[0348] These compounds can be oxyethylated and then preferably comprise from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide motifs.

[0349] C6-C24 alkyl monoester salts and polyglycoside-polycarboxylic acids can be selected from C6-C24 alkyl polyglycoside-citrates, C6-C24 alkyl polyglycoside-tartrates and C6-C24 alkyl polyglycoside-sulfosuccinates.

[0350] When the anionic surfactant(s) are in salt form, they can be chosen from alkali metal salts such as sodium or potassium salt and preferably sodium salt, ammonium salts, amine salts and in particular amino alcohols or alkaline earth metal salts such as magnesium salt.

[0351] Examples of amino alcohol salts include mono-, di- and triethanolamine salts, mono-, di- or tri-isopropanol-amine salts, 2-amino 2-methyl 1-propanol salts, 2-amino 2-methyl 1,3-propanediol and tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane salts.

[0352] Salts of alkali or alkaline earth metals are preferably used, and in particular salts of sodium or magnesium.

[0353] Any anionic surfactants present may be mild anionic surfactants, i.e. without sulfate function.

[0354] With regard to mild anionic surfactants, particular examples may be given to the following compounds and their salts, as well as mixtures thereof: polyoxyalkylenated alkyl ether carboxylic acids; polyoxyalkylenated alkylaryl ether carboxylic acids; polyoxyalkylenated alkylamido ether carboxylic acids, in particular those comprising 2 to 50 ethylene oxide groups; uronic alkyl D galactoside acids; acylsarcosinates, acylglutamates; and alkyl polyglycosides carboxylic esters.

[0355] In particular, polyoxyalkylened alkyl ether carboxylic acids can be used, such as lauryl ether carboxylic acid (4,5 OE) marketed for example under the name AKYPO RLM 45 CA from KAO.

[0356] Among the anionic surfactants mentioned above, sulfated surfactants such as alkylsulfates or alkyl ether sulfates, and acylglutamates, C12-C20 fatty acid salts, more preferably alkylsulfates and C12-C20 fatty acid salts, are used.

[0357] The amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) usable in the composition according to the invention are preferably non-siliconized and may in particular be secondary or tertiary aliphatic amine derivatives, possibly quatemized, in which the aliphatic group is a linear or branched chain comprising 8 to 22 carbon atoms, said amine derivatives containing at least one anionic group such as, for example, a carboxylate, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate or phosphonate group.

[0358] In particular, alkyl(C8-C20)betaines, alkyl(C8-C20)sulfobetaines, alkyl(C8-C2o)amidoalkyl(Ci-C6)betaines, alkyl(C8-C2o)-amidalkyl(Ci-C6)sulfobetaines, and mixtures thereof, may be cited.

[0359] Among the usable secondary or tertiary aliphatic amine derivatives, possibly quantified, as defined above, we may also mention the compounds with the following respective structures (VI) and (VII): Ra-CONHCH2CH2-N+(Rb)(Rc)-CH2COO, M+, X (VI) formula (III), in which: - Ra represents an alkyl or alkenyl group in C10 to C30 derived from an acid RaCOOH, preferably present in hydrolyzed coconut oil, preferably Ra represents a heptyl, nonyl or undecyl group; - Rb represents a beta-hydroxyethyl group; - Rc represents a carboxymethyl group; - M+ represents a cationic counter ion derived from an alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion, or an ion derived from an organic amine; and - X represents an organic or inorganic anionic counter ion, such as one chosen from among halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, alkyl(Ci-C4)sulfates, alkyl(Ci-C4)- or alkyl(Ci-C4)aryl-sulfonates, in particular methylsulfate and ethylsulfate; or else M+ and X are absent; Ra'-CONHCH2CH2-N(B)(B') (VII) formula (VII), in which: - B represents the group -CH2CH2OX'; - B' represents the group -(CH2)ZY', with z = 1 or 2; - X' represents the group -CH2COOH, -CH2-COOZ', -CH2CH2COOH, CH2CH2-COOZ', or a hydrogen atom; - Y' represents the group -COOH, -COOZ', -CH2CH(OH)SO3H or the group CH2 CH(OH)SO3-Z'; - Z' represents a cationic counter ion from an alkali or alkaline earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion from an organic amine; - Ra' represents an alkyl or alkenyl group in C10 to C30 of an acid Ra'-COOH preferably present in coconut oil or in hydrolyzed linseed oil, preferably Ra' an alkyl group, especially in Cp and its iso form, an unsaturated Cp group.

[0360] These compounds are classified in the CTFA dictionary, 5th edition, 1993, under the names disodium cocoamphodiacetate, disodium lauroamphodiacetate, disodium caprylamphodiacetate, disodium capryloamphodiacetate, disodium cocoamphodipropionate, disodium lauroamphodipropionate, disodium caprylamphodipropionate, disodium capryloamphodipropionate, lauroamphodipropionic acid, cocoamphodipropionic acid.

[0361] As an example, we can cite cocoamphodiacetate marketed by the company RHODIA under the trade name MIRANOL® C2M concentrate.

[0362] Compounds of formula (VIII) can also be used: Ra''-NHCH(Y”)-(CH2)nCONH(CH2)nN(Rd)(Re) (VIII) formula (VIII), in which: - Y” represents the group -COOH, -COOZ”, -CH2-CH(OH)SO3H or the group CH2 CH(OH)SO3-Z”; - Rd and Re, independently of each other, represent an alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical in C1 to C4; - Z” represents a cationic counter ion from an alkali or alkaline earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion from an organic amine; - Ra” represents an alkyl or alkenyl group in C10 to C30 of an acid Ra”-COOH preferably present in coconut oil or hydrolyzed linseed oil; and - n and n', independently of each other, denote an integer from 1 to 3.

[0363] Among the compounds of formula (VIII) we can mention the compound classified in the CTFA dictionary under the name sodium diethylaminopropyl cocoaspartamide and marketed by the company CHIMEX under the name CHIMEXANE HB.

[0364] These compounds can be used alone or in mixtures.

[0365] Among the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants mentioned above, alkyl(C8-C2o)betaines, such as cocobetaine, alkyl(C8-C2o)amidoalkyl(C3-C8)betaines, such as cocamidopropylbetaine, alkyl(C8-C2o)amphoacetates, alkyl(C8-C20)amphodiacetates and mixtures thereof are advantageously used; and preferably alkyl(C8-C20)betaines, alkyl(C8-C20)amidoalkyl(C3-C8)betaines and mixtures thereof.

[0366] Preferably, the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) are chosen from alkyl(C8-C20)betaines, alkyl(C8-C20)amidoalkyl(C3-C8)betaines and mixtures thereof.

[0367] The non-ionic surfactant(s) usable in the composition of the present invention are described in particular, for example, in "Handbook of Surfactants" by MR PORTER, Blackie & Son (Glasgow and London), 1991, pp 116-178.

[0368] Examples of non-ionic surfactants include the following compounds, alone or in mixtures: - alkyl(C8-C24)oxyalkylened phenols; - alcohols in the C8 to C40 range, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyalkylated or glycerolated, preferably include one or two fatty chains; - C8 to C30 fatty acid amides, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyalkylated; - esters of C8 to C30 acids, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and of polyethylene glycols; - C8-C30 fatty acid esters, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and glycerol, - fatty acid and sucrose esters, - esters of C8 to C30 acids, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and of sorbitol, preferably oxygenated; - C8-C30 fatty acid esters and sorbitan, - C8-C30 fatty acid esters and polyoxyethylenated sorbitan, - alkyl(C8-C30)(poly)glucosides, alkenyl(C8-C30)(poly)glucosides, possibly oxyalkylated (0 to 10 oxyalkylated motifs) and comprising 1 to 15 glucose motifs, alkyl (C8-C30)(poly)glucoside esters, - oxyethylenated vegetable oils, saturated or unsaturated; - ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide condensates; - A^-alkyl(C8-C30)glucamine and A^-acyl(C8-C30)-methylglucamine derivatives; - amine oxides.

[0369] They are chosen, in particular, from among alcohols, alpha-diols, alkyl(Ci-C 2o)phenols, these compounds being ethoxylated, propoxylated or glycerolated, and having at least one fatty chain comprising, for example, from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 18 carbon atoms, the number of ethylene oxide or propylene oxide groups being able to range in particular from 1 to 200 and the number of glycerol groups being able to range in particular from 1 to 30.

[0370] Other examples include ethylene oxide and propylene oxide condensates on fatty alcohols; ethoxylated fatty amides preferably having 1 to 30 ethylene oxide motifs; polyglycerol fatty amides having on average 1 to 5 glycerol groups and in particular 1.5 to 4; fatty acid esters of sucrose; fatty acid esters of polyethylene glycol; oxyethylenated vegetable oils; N-(C6-C24 alkyl)glucamine derivatives; amine oxides such as (C10-C14 alkyl)amine oxides or N-(C10-C14 acyl)aminopropylmorpholine oxides.

[0371] Esters (in particular mono, di, tri esters) of C8-C30 fatty acids, preferably C12-C22, and of sorbitan may be selected from: Sorbitan Caprylate; Sorbitan Cocoate; Sorbitan Isostearate; Sorbitan Laurate; Sorbitan Oleate; Sorbitan Palmitate; Sorbitan Stearate; Sorbitan Diisostearate; Sorbitan Dioleate; Sorbitan Distearate; Sorbitan Sesquicaprylate; Sorbitan Sesquiisostearate; Sorbitan Sesquioleate; Sorbitan Sesquistearate; Sorbitan Triisostearate; Sorbitan Trioleate; Sorbitan Tristearate.

[0372] Esters (in particular mono, di, tri esters) of C8-C30 fatty acids and polyoxyethylenated sorbitan are preferably selected from C8-C30 fatty acid and oxyethylenated sorbitan ester(s) having 1 to 30 ethylene oxide motifs, preferably 2 to 20 ethylene oxide motifs, preferably still 2 to 10 ethylene oxide motifs.

[0373] Preferably, the C8-C30 fatty acid and oxyethylenated sorbitan ester(s) is / are selected from Ci2-Ci8 fatty acid and oxyethylenated sorbitan esters, in particular from oxyethylenated lauric acid, myristic acid, cetyl acid and stearic acid and sorbitan esters.

[0374] Preferably, the C8-C30 fatty acid ester(s) and oxyethylenated sorbitan is / are selected from oxyethylenated sorbitan monolaurate (4 EO) (POLYSORBATE-21), oxyethylenated sorbitan monolaurate (20 EO) (POLYSORBATE-20), oxyethylenated sorbitan monopalmitate (20 EO) (POLYSORBATE-40), oxyethylenated sorbitan monostearate (20 EO) (POLYSORBATE-60), oxyethylenated sorbitan monostearate (4 EO) (POLYSORBATE-61), oxyethylenated sorbitan monooleate (20 EO) (POLYSORBATE-80), oxyethylenated sorbitan monooleate (5 EO) (POLYSORBATE-81), sorbitan oxyethylenated tristearate (20 OE) (POLYSORBATE-65), sorbitan oxyethylenated trioleate (20 OE) (POLYSORBATE-85).

[0375] The non-ionic surfactant(s) are preferably selected from C8-C24 ethoxylated fatty alcohols comprising from 1 to 200 ethylene oxide groups, preferably from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide groups, C6-C24 (alkyl) polyglycosides, C8-C30 fatty acid esters, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and of glycerol, C8-C30 fatty acid esters and of oxyethylenated sorbitan, and mixtures thereof, preferably from C8-C24 ethoxylated fatty alcohols comprising from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide groups, C6-C24 (alkyl) polyglycosides, C8-C30 fatty acid esters, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and of glycerol.

[0376] More preferably, the non-ionic surfactant(s) are chosen from C8-C24 ethoxylated fatty alcohols comprising from 1 to 200 ethylene oxide groups, preferably from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide groups.

[0377] The cationic surfactant(s) usable in the composition according to the invention are generally chosen from primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amines, possibly polyoxyalkylated, quaternary ammonium salts, and mixtures thereof.

[0378] Fatty amines generally comprise at least one C8-C30 hydrocarbon chain. Among the fatty amines usable according to the invention, examples include stearyl amidopropyl dimethylamine and distearylamine.

[0379] Quaternary ammonium salts may be cited in particular, for example:

[0380] - those corresponding to the following general formula (IX): in which the groups R8 to Rn, which may be identical or different, represent an aliphatic group, linear or branched, comprising from 1 to 30 atoms of carbon, or an aromatic group such as aryl or alkylaryl, at least one of the R8 to Rn groups comprising 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 12 to 24 carbon atoms. Aliphatic groups may include heteroatoms such as, in particular, oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur, and halogens. Aliphatic groups are for example chosen from the alkyl groups in Cl-C30, alkoxy in Ci-C30, polyoxyalkylene (C2-C6), alkylamide in Ci-C30, alkyl(Ci2-C22)amidoalkyl(C2-C6), alkyl(Ci2-C22)acetate, and hydroxyalkyl in Ci-C30, X is an anion chosen from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, alkyl(Ci-C4)sulfates, alkyl(Ci-C4)- or alkyl(Ci-C4)aryl-sulfonates. Among the quaternary ammonium salts of formula (IX), preference is given on the one hand to tetraalkylammonium chlorides such as, for example, dialkyldimethylammonium or alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides in which the alkyl group comprises about 12 to 22 carbon atoms, in particular behenyltrimethylammonium, distearyldimethylammonium, cetyltrimethylammonium, benzyldimethylstearylammonium chlorides or, on the other hand, to distearoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium methosulfate, dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylammonium methosulfate or distearoylethylhydroxyethylammonium methosulfate, or, finally, to palmitylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride or stearamidopropyldimethyl-(myristylacetate)-ammonium chloride marketed under the name CERAPHYL® 70 by the company VAN DYK.

[0381] - quaternary ammonium salts of imidazoline, such as for example those of The following formula (X): x ch ? ch ? -^ x ff 'Nf' \........... / Ru in which R12 represents an alkenyl or alkyl group comprising 8 to 30 carbon atoms, for example derived from tallow fatty acids, R13 represents a hydrogen atom, a CrC4 alkyl group or an alkenyl or alkyl group comprising 8 to 30 carbon atoms, R14 represents a CrC4 alkyl group, R15 represents a hydrogen atom, a CrC4 alkyl group, X' is an anion chosen from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, alkyl(Ci-C4)sulfates, alkyl(CrC4)- or alkyl(Ci-C4)aryl-sulfonates. Preferably, R12 and R13 denote a mixture of alkenyl or alkyl groups comprising 12 to 21 carbon atoms, for example derived from tallow fatty acids, R14 designates a methyl group, R15 designates a hydrogen atom. Such a product is, for example, marketed under the name REWOQUAT® W 75 by the company REWO.

[0382] - quaternary di- or triammonium salts in particular of formula (XI) next: R1 N—~ (G^ N— in which R16 designates an alkyl group comprising about 16 to 30 carbon atoms possibly hydroxylated and / or interrupted by one or more oxygen atoms, R17 is chosen from hydrogen or an alkyl group comprising 1 to 4 carbon atoms or a -(CH2)3-N+ group. (R16a)(R17a)(R18a), R16a, R17a, R18a, R18, R19, R20 and R21, identical or different, are chosen from hydrogen or an alkyl group comprising 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and X- is an anion chosen from the group of halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, alkyl(Cl-C4)sulfates, alkyl(Cl-C4)- or alkyl(Cl-C4)aryl-sulfonates, in particular methyl sulfate and ethyl sulfate. Examples of such compounds include Finquat CT-P offered by FINETEX (Quaternium 89) and Finquat CT offered by FINETEX (Quaternium 75).

[0383] - quaternary ammonium salts containing one or more ester functions, such as that, for example, those of the following formula (XII): ---FU (XII) O | ........C--(0——O)„ X" FU in which: R22 is chosen from among the C1-C6 alkyl groups and the C1-C6 hydroxyalkyl or dihydroxyalkyl groups; R23 is chosen from among: the -C(O)R26 group, the C1-C22 hydrocarbon groups R27, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, the hydrogen atom; R25 is chosen from among: the -C(O)R28 group, the C1-C6 hydrocarbon groups R29, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, the hydrogen atom; R24, R26 and R28, identical or different, are chosen from the C7-C21 hydrocarbon groups, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated; r, s and t, identical or different, are integers from 2 to 6; rl and tl, identical or different, are 0 or 1; r² + rl = 2r and tl + t² = 2t, y is an integer from 1 to 10, x and z, identical or different, are integers from 0 to 10, X⁻ is a simple or complex anion, organic or inorganic, provided that the sum x + y + z equals 1 to 15, that when x equals 0 then R23 designates R27 and that when z equals 0 then R25 designates R29. R22 alkyl groups can be linear or branched, and more particularly linear. Preferably, R22 designates a methyl, ethyl, hydroxyethyl, or dihydroxypropyl group, and more particularly a methyl or ethyl group. Advantageously, the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 10. When R23 is a hydrocarbon R27 group, it can be long and have 12 to 22 carbon atoms, or short and have 1 to 3 carbon atoms. When R25 is a hydrocarbon R29 group, it preferably has 1 to 3 carbon atoms. Advantageously, R24, R26 and R28, identical or different, are chosen from among the C11-C21 hydrocarbon groups, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and more particularly from among the C11-C21 alkyl and alkenyl groups, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated. Preferably, x and z, whether identical or different, are equal to 0 or 1. Advantageously, y is equal to 1. Preferably, r, s and t, whether identical or different, are equal to 2 or 3, and even more particularly are equal to 2. The X- anion is preferably a halide, preferably a chloride, bromide, or iodide, an alkyl(Cl-C4) sulfate, alkyl(Cl-C4)-, or alkyl(Cl-C4)aryl sulfonate. However, methanesulfonate, phosphate, nitrate, tosylate, an anion derived from an organic acid such as acetate or lactate, or any other ammonium-compatible ester anion may be used. The X- anion is more specifically chloride, methylsulfate or ethylsulfate. In the composition according to the invention, ammonium salts of formula (XIII) are used in particular, wherein: R22 designates a methyl or ethyl group, x and y are equal to 1, z is equal to 0 or 1, r, s and t are equal to 2; R23 is chosen from: the -C(O)R26 group, methyl, ethyl or C14-C22 hydrocarbon groups, the hydrogen atom, R25 is chosen from: the -C(O)R28 group, the hydrogen atom, R24, R26 and R28, identical or different, are chosen from C13-C17 hydrocarbon groups, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and preferably from C13-C17 alkyl and alkenyl groups, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated. Advantageously, hydrocarbon groups are linear. Examples of compounds with formula (XII) include salts, notably diacyloxyethyldimethylammonium chloride or methylsulfate, of diacyloxyethylhydroxyethyl methylammonium, monoacyloxyethyldihydroxyethylmethylammonium, triacyloxyethylmethylammonium, monoacyloxyethylhydroxyethyldimethylammonium, and mixtures thereof. The acyl groups preferably have 14 to 18 carbon atoms and are most commonly derived from a vegetable oil such as palm or sunflower oil. When the compound contains several acyl groups, these may be identical or different. These products are obtained, for example, by direct esterification of triethanolamine, triisopropanolamine, alkyldiethanolamine, or alkyldiisopropanolamine, optionally oxyalkylated with fatty acids or mixtures of fatty acids of vegetable or animal origin, or by transesterification of their methyl esters. This esterification is followed by quaternization using an alkylating agent, such as an alkyl halide, preferably methyl or ethyl, a dialkyl sulfate, preferably methyl or ethyl, methyl methanesulfonate, methyl para-toluenesulfonate, glycol chlorohydrin, or glycerol. Such compounds are marketed for example under the names DEHYQUART® by the company HENKEL, STEPANQUAT® by the company STEPAN, NOXAMIUM® by the company CECA, REWOQUAT® WE 18 by the company REWO-WITCO. The composition according to the invention may contain, for example, a mixture of quaternary ammonium mono-, di- and triester salts with a majority by weight of diester salts. Ammonium salts containing at least one ester function, as described in patents US-A-4874554 and US-A-4137180, can also be used. Behenoylhydroxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride, for example, offered by the company KAO under the name Quartamin BTC 131, can also be used. Preferably, ammonium salts containing at least one ester function contain two ester functions. Among cationic surfactants, preference is given to cetyltrimethylammonium salts, behenyltrimethylammonium salts, dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium salts, and mixtures thereof, and more particularly behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylammonium methosulfate, and mixtures thereof.

[0384] Preferably, the surfactant(s) are chosen from anionic surfactants, non-ionic surfactants and mixtures thereof, more preferably from anionic surfactants.

[0385] More preferably, the surfactant(s) are chosen from ethoxylated C8-C24 fatty alcohols comprising from 1 to 200 ethylene oxide groups, preferably from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide groups, alkylsulfates, C12-C20 fatty acid salts and their mixtures, best among alkylsulfates, C12-C20 fatty acid salts and their mixtures.

[0386] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition comprises one or more surfactants selected from alkylsulfates.

[0387] When the composition includes one or more surfactant(s), the total surfactant content in the composition will preferably be from 0.01 to 20% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 15% by weight, better from 0.5 to 10% by weight, even better from 1 to 8% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0388] When the composition includes one or more non-ionic and / or anionic surfactant(s), the total content of non-ionic and / or anionic surfactant(s) in the composition preferably ranges from 0.01 to 20% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 15% by weight, better from 0.5 to 10% by weight, even better from 1 to 8% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Solvent

[0389] The composition according to the invention may also include at least one organic solvent.

[0390] Examples of organic solvents include linear or branched C2-C4 alkanols such as ethanol and isopropanol; polyols and polyol ethers such as glycerol, 2-butoxyethanol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, propane-1,3-diol, propylene glycol monomethyl ether, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether and monomethyl ether, as well as aromatic alcohols or ethers such as benzyl alcohol or phenoxyethanol, and mixtures thereof.

[0391] When the composition includes one or more organic solvents, the total content of the organic solvent(s) shall preferably be from 0.01 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0392] Preferably, the composition according to the invention is anhydrous. By anhydrous composition is meant a composition that contains no, or very little, water, in particular less than 0.5% water, better less than 0.1% water, even better less than 0.05%, or even less than 0.01% water, by weight of the total composition. In particular, the composition does not include any water added during its preparation; any water that may be present could be supplied by the raw materials used during its preparation. Additives

[0393] The composition according to the invention may optionally include one or more additives, different from the compounds of the invention, and among which may be mentioned polymers, different from associative polymers and non-associative polysaccharides, mineral thickening agents, anti-dandruff agents, anti-seborrheic agents, anti-hair loss and / or regrowth agents, vitamins and pro-vitamins including panthenol, sunscreens, plasticizers, solubilizers, opacifying or pearlescent agents, antioxidants, perfumes, preservatives.

[0394] Of course, a person skilled in the art will take care to choose this or these possible complementary compounds in such a way that the advantageous properties intrinsically attached to the composition according to the invention are not, or substantially not, altered by the envisaged addition(s).

[0395] The above additives may generally be present in quantities of each of them between 0 and 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0396] According to one embodiment, the composition just described does not include hydrogen peroxide. This composition is intended to be mixed, at the time of use, with a composition containing hydrogen peroxide.

[0397] Before mixing with a composition comprising hydrogen peroxide, the composition according to the invention is preferably in the form of a cream.

[0398] Preferably, the composition according to the invention, before mixing with a composition comprising hydrogen peroxide, has a viscosity greater than or equal to 100 poises (100 Pa.s), preferably greater than or equal to 130 poises (130 Pa.s), preferably still between 130 and 250 poises (130 and 250 Pa.s), measured at 25°C and at a shear rate of 1s; this viscosity being able to be determined by means of a Thermo Haake RS600 rotary rheometer, equipped with a 0.35 mm plan-plane geometry with an air gap of 1 mm.

[0399] Alternatively, the composition according to the invention may include hydrogen peroxide. When it includes hydrogen peroxide, the composition is a ready-to-use composition.

[0400] According to a preferred embodiment, the ready-to-use composition comprises: - one or more peroxygenated salts; - one or more hydrocarbon(s) with a melting point above 25°C; - one or more additional fats present in a total content greater than or equal to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; - one or more direct dye(s), and - hydrogen peroxide.

[0401] According to a particular embodiment, the ready-to-use composition comprises: - one or more persulfate(s); - one or more hydrocarbon(s) with a melting point above 25°C; - one or more additional fats present in a total content greater than or equal to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; - one or more direct dye(s), and - hydrogen peroxide.

[0402] Preferably, the ready-to-use composition is also in the form of a cream.

[0403] Preferably, the pH of the ready-to-use composition is from 8 to 13, preferably from 9 to 12. Process

[0404] The present invention also relates to a method for lightening keratin fibers, preferably human, in particular hair, which includes a step of applying to said keratin fibers an effective amount of a composition as defined above.

[0405] Preferably, the composition applied to the keratin fibers is obtained by mixing, before use, a composition according to the invention which does not include hydrogen peroxide with a composition including hydrogen peroxide.

[0406] According to a preferred embodiment, the process for lightening keratin fibers, preferably human, in particular hair, according to the invention comprises: (i) a mixing step of a composition A according to the invention as described above which does not comprise hydrogen peroxide, with a composition B comprising hydrogen peroxide, (ii) an application step on said keratin fibers of the composition resulting from the mixture obtained in step (i).

[0407] The composition resulting from the mixture in step (i) is called the ready-to-use composition.

[0408] This ready-to-use composition may include one or more of the ingredients described above. This ready-to-use composition may also include water, in particular from the composition containing hydrogen peroxide.

[0409] The ready-to-use composition can be applied to dry or wet keratin fibers. After treatment, the keratin fibers may be rinsed with water, or optionally washed with shampoo followed by rinsing with water, before being dried or left to dry.

[0410] This mixing step is preferably carried out at the time of use, just before applying the composition resulting from the mixture to the hair.

[0411] Preferably, compositions A and B are mixed in a weight ratio A / B of 0.1 to 2, preferably 0.3 to 1.5, better 0.5 to 1.

[0412] Preferably, composition B comprises hydrogen peroxide in a content ranging from 0.1 to 50%, more particularly from 0.5 to 20%, and even more preferably from 1 to 15% by weight relative to the weight of composition B.

[0413] Composition B is preferably an aqueous composition. In particular, it comprises more than 10% by weight of water, preferably more than 30% by weight of water, and even more advantageously more than 50% by weight of water.

[0414] It may also include one or more organic solvents selected from those listed above; the latter representing more particularly, when present, from 0.1 to 30% by weight relative to the weight of the oxidizing composition, and preferably from 0.3 to 20% by weight.

[0415] Composition B also preferably comprises one or more acidifying agents. Examples of acidifying agents include mineral or organic acids such as hydrochloric acid, orthophosphoric acid, sulfuric acid, carboxylic acids such as acetic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, lactic acid, and sulfonic acids.

[0416] Composition B preferably comprises one or more fats such as those described above, preferably selected from fatty alcohols, liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms and mixtures thereof.

[0417] Composition B may also include surfactants and thickening polymers.

[0418] Usually, the pH of composition B, when aqueous, is less than 7, preferably between 1 and 5, preferably between 1.5 and 4.5. Kit

[0419] Another object of the invention is a device with at least two compartments for lightening keratin fibers, comprising at least a first compartment containing a composition A as described above and at least a second compartment containing a composition B comprising hydrogen peroxide as described above.

[0420] The compositions of the device according to the invention are packaged in separate compartments, accompanied, optionally, by suitable application means, identical or different, such as brushes, sponges or brushes.

[0421] The device mentioned above can also be equipped with a means for delivering the desired mixture onto the hair, for example such as the devices described in patent FR 2586913.

[0422] The present invention finally relates to the use of a composition according to the invention as described above for the lightening of keratin fibers, and in particular of hair.

[0423] The following examples serve to illustrate the invention without, however, being limiting in nature. Examples

[0424] In the following examples, all quantities are given as mass percentage of active material (AM) relative to the total weight of the composition (unless otherwise stated). Compositions A and Al

[0425] Compositions A and A1 were prepared from the ingredients whose contents are indicated in the table below:

[0426] [Tables 1] A (inventi on) Al (comparative) POTASSIUM PERSULFATE 23.17 23.17 AMMONIUM PERSULFATE 10.00 10.00 SODIUM SILICATE 18.00 18.00 SODIUM METASILICATE 5.00 5.00 SODIUM STEARATE 4.72 4.72 HYDROXYETHYLCELLULOSE 0.75 0.75 ACRYLATES / C10-30 ALKYL ACRYL ATE CROSSPOLYMER 0.75 0.75 SODIUM LAURYL SULFATE 1.00 1.00 DISODIUM EDTA 0.49 0.49 GLYCINE 0.60 0.60 CITRIC ACID 3.30 3.30 GLYCERYL STEARATE 0.01 0.01 MINERAL OIL / PARAFFINUM LIQ UIDUM 29.00 30.89 POLYETHYLENE* 1.89 - TETRABROMOPHENOL BLUE 0.005 0.005 ULTRAMARINES / CI 77007 0.27 0.27 Inert charge(s) Qs 100 Qs 100

[0427] * PERFORMA SW 100 SYNTHETIC WAX marketed by NUCERA SOLUTIONS Composition O

[0428] The oxidizing composition O was prepared from the ingredients whose contents are indicated in the table below:

[0429] [Tables2] O TETRASODIUM PYROPHOSPHATE 0.04 SODIUM SALICYLATE 0.035 ACRYLATES / BEHENETH-25 METHA CRYLATE COPOLYMER 0.40 CETEARETH-33 2.00 HYDROGEN PEROXIDE 9.00 CETEARYL ALCOHOL 8.00 TETRASODIUM ETIDRONATE 0.06 PHOSPHORIC ACID Qs pH 3 + / - 0.2 WATER / AQUA Qs 100

[0430] Composition A according to the invention is in the form of a soft and glossy cream. Composition A1 is in the form of a very soft cream.

[0431] Creams A and A1 were left at room temperature for 24 hours. It was observed that the comparative cream A1 became unstable and exhibited phase separation, unlike cream A according to the invention, which remained homogeneous. The invention improved the stability of the cream.

[0432] At the time of use, compositions A to Al were respectively mixed with oxidizing composition O in the weight ratio 1+1.5, to obtain mixtures M and ML respectively

[0433] A homogeneous mixture was easily obtained with composition A according to the invention. The mixture obtained with composition A1 is more fluid and may cause drips during application to the head.

[0434] Each of the mixtures M and Ml was then applied to a strand of natural brown hair (level 4) at a ratio of 10g of mixture to 1g of hair strand.

[0435] After a 50 min drying time at 33°C, the strands were rinsed, then washed and dried at 60°C in an oven.

[0436] The M mixture did not dry on the strands during the application time.

[0437] Mixture M results in a good level of hair lightening. The hair Treated with the M blend, they have a natural appearance, without unsightly reflections.

[0438] The invention has therefore made it possible to obtain a lightening cream that is stable over time and leads to a good level of hair lightening, without unsightly highlights.

Claims

Demands

1. Composition comprising: - one or more peroxygenated salts; - one or more hydrocarbon(s) with a melting point above 25°C selected from polyethylene waxes; - one or more additional fats other than hydrocarbons with a melting point above 25°C present in a total content greater than or equal to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; and - one or more direct colorant(s).

2. Composition according to the preceding claim wherein the peroxygenated salt(s) are selected from alkali metal persulfates, alkaline earth metal persulfates, ammonium persulfates, and mixtures thereof; more preferably from (bis)tetrabutylammonium persulfate, barium persulfate, magnesium persulfate, calcium persulfate, sodium persulfate, potassium persulfate, ammonium persulfate, and mixtures thereof; more preferably still from sodium persulfate, potassium persulfate, ammonium persulfate, and mixtures thereof; even better from potassium persulfate, ammonium persulfate, and mixtures thereof.

3. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the total content of peroxygenated salt(s) ranges from 1 to 60% by weight, preferably from 5 to 55% by weight, more preferably from 10 to 50% by weight, and more preferably from 20 to 45% by weight, better from 30 to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims wherein the hydrocarbon(s) with a melting point above 25°C is (are) selected from ethylene homopolymers with a melting point above or equal to 30°C, preferably above or equal to 50°C, preferably above or equal to 70°C, better above or equal to 80°C, preferably from 85 to 150°C, better from 90 to 120°C.

5. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the total content of hydrocarbon(s) with a melting point above 25°C ranges from 0.1 to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 20% by weight, more preferably 1 to 10% by weight, better 1.5 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims wherein the additional fat(s) are selected from liquid fats, solid fats and mixtures thereof.

7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims comprising at least one liquid fat, preferably selected from liquid hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, vegetable oils, liquid fatty alcohols and liquid fatty esters, silicone oils and mixtures thereof, preferably from liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms, in particular petrolatum, liquid fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof, preferably from liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms, in particular petrolatum.

8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims comprising at least one solid fat, preferably selected from solid fatty alcohols, solid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols, waxes, ceramides, and mixtures thereof, preferably from solid fatty alcohols, waxes and mixtures thereof.

9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the total content of additional fat(s) ranges from 10 to 60% by weight, preferably from 15 to 50% by weight, more preferably from 20 to 40% by weight, better from 30 to 35% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the direct colorant(s) is / are selected from benzene, azo, hydrazono, (hetero)aryl, tri(hetero)arylmethane, (poly)methine, carbonyl, azinic, porphyrinic, metalloporphyrinic, quinonic and in particular anthraquinone, indoamine, phthalocyanine, xanthenic direct colorants, natural direct colorants and mixtures thereof, preferably from tri(hetero)arylmethane colorants, xanthenic colorants and mixtures thereof, preferably from tri(hetero)arylmethane colorants, better from triarylmethane colorants.

11. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the direct colorant(s) is / are selected from halogenated direct dyes, preferably having at least one halogenated aromatic ring, the halogen atoms preferably being selected from fluorine, chlorine, bromine, iodine and astatine, preferably from chlorine and bromine.

12. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the direct colorant(s) is / are selected from anionic direct colorants and cationic direct colorants, preferably from anionic direct colorants.

13. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims wherein the direct colorant(s) is / are selected from Tetrabromophenol Blue, Basic Blue 77, Acid Red 92 and mixtures thereof, preferably Tetrabromophenol Blue.

14. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims wherein the total content of direct colorant(s) ranges from 0.0001 to 10% by weight, better from 0.0005 to 8% by weight, and even better from 0.001 to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.002 to 3% by weight, more preferably from 0.003 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

15. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims comprising an alkali agent, preferably selected from ammonia, alkali carbonates or bicarbonates such as sodium (hydrogen)carbonate and potassium (hydrogen)carbonate, alkali or alkaline earth metal phosphates such as sodium phosphates or potassium phosphates, sodium or potassium hydroxides, alkali or alkaline earth metal silicates or metasilicates such as sodium silicate or metasilicate and mixtures thereof, preferably from alkali or alkaline earth metal silicates or metasilicates such as sodium metasilicate, sodium silicate and mixtures thereof.

16. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the total content of the alkali agent(s) ranges from 0.1 to 50% by weight, more preferably from 1 to 40% by weight, better from 5 to 35% by weight, better still from 10 to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

17. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, not comprising hydrogen peroxide.

18. 67 Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 16, comprising hydrogen peroxide.

19. A method for lightening keratin fibers, preferably human, in particular hair, comprising applying to said keratin fibers the composition as defined in any one of the preceding claims.

20. A method for lightening keratin fibers, preferably human, in particular hair, comprising (i) a step of mixing the composition defined according to any one of claims 1 to 17 with a composition comprising hydrogen peroxide, (ii) a step of applying to said keratin fibers a composition from the mixture obtained in step (i).

21. Device with at least two compartments, for lightening keratin fibers, comprising at least a first compartment containing a composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 17 and at least a second compartment containing a composition comprising hydrogen peroxide.

22. Use of a composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 18, for lightening keratin fibers, and in particular hair.