Keratin treatment composition and mask including
A composition with Sphingomonas ferment extract, carrageenan, and glucomannan, combined with a quilted fabric mask, addresses the rigidity and skin affinity issues of hydrogel masks, providing a soft and adherent, environmentally friendly solution.
Patent Information
- Authority / Receiving Office
- FR · FR
- Patent Type
- Utility models
- Current Assignee / Owner
- LOREAL SA
- Filing Date
- 2024-04-19
- Publication Date
- 2026-04-17
AI Technical Summary
Existing hydrogel compositions used in sheet masks are too rigid and difficult to conform to the shape of the face, lacking softness and skin affinity, and there is a need for more sustainable, environmentally friendly cosmetic products.
A composition comprising Sphingomonas ferment extract, carrageenan, and non-ionic polysaccharides such as glucomannan, combined with a quilted fabric mask, to enhance softness and skin affinity.
The composition achieves a soft and adherent mask that conforms well to the face, with improved environmental sustainability.
Abstract
Description
Title of the invention: KERATINOUS MATERIAL CARE COMPOSITION AND MASK COMPRISING IT Technical field
[0001] The present invention relates to a composition and a mask containing it. In particular, the present invention relates to a composition for the treatment of keratinous materials, and a mask comprising it. The present invention also relates to a non-therapeutic method for the treatment of keratinous materials. STATE OF THE ART
[0002] Hydrogel is a type of solid gel composed of various types of polymers, capable of holding a large amount of water. The technology is widely used as a type of medical dressing to provide a soothing or healing effect on wounds. In the cosmetic field, hydrogel can be used as a substrate in the form of a sheet mask.
[0003] To be sufficiently strong as a sheet mask, the normal method is to increase the concentration of the polymer.
[0004] However, when the polymer concentration is increased, the resulting hydrogel becomes more rigid and difficult to bend and conform to the shape of the face. It may be acceptable to use it as a zonal patch, such as an eye patch or an acne patch, but it cannot be used as a full face mask or for other parts of the body.
[0005] It is desirable to have a composition with a softness suitable for the whole face or other parts of the body.
[0006] It is also desirable that the composition have a good affinity for adhering to the skin.
[0007] Therefore, it is necessary to develop a gentle composition with good affinity for the skin.
[0008] Furthermore, the formulation of environmentally friendly cosmetic products, which are designed and developed taking environmental issues into account, is becoming a major objective in an effort to meet global challenges.
[0009] It is therefore essential to offer more sustainable compositions and ingredients to address these environmental concerns.
[0010] In this context, it is important to develop new cosmetic compositions with a better carbon footprint, in particular by promoting the use of renewable raw materials and / or materials with a good carbon index. natural and / or materials of natural origin and, more particularly, materials of plant origin while reducing the use of compounds of petrochemical origin. Summary of the invention
[0011] An object of the present invention is to propose a composition which is soft and exhibits a good affinity with keratinous materials.
[0012] Another object of the present invention is to provide a mask that is soft and has a good affinity with keratinous materials.
[0013] A third object of the present invention is to propose a non-therapeutic method for the treatment of keratinous materials.
[0014] Thus, according to a first aspect, the present invention proposes a composition, preferably for the care of keratinous materials, comprising: i. at least one extract of sphingomonas ferment; ii. at least one carrageenan; and iii. at least one non-ionic polysaccharide selected from among the homopolymers of mannose, mannose and glucose copolymers, mannose and galactose copolymers, and one of their combinations.
[0015] The composition according to the present invention is soft and exhibits a good affinity with keratinous materials.
[0016] The composition according to the present invention is suitable for a mask, in particular for masks for the treatment of keratinous materials.
[0017] According to a second aspect, the present invention proposes a mask, preferably care of keratinous materials, including: A. a quilted fabric for a mask, and B. the composition according to the present invention on the quilted fabric for mask.
[0018] The composition and mask according to the present invention can be used for the care of keratinous materials.
[0019] According to a third aspect, the present invention proposes a non-therapeutic method for the care of keratinous materials, comprising the application of the composition or mask according to the present invention to the keratinous materials.
[0020] Other subjects and features, aspects and advantages of the present invention will become even clearer upon reading the detailed description and examples that follow. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION
[0021] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "keratinous material" is understood to refer to the skin. Facial skin and the skin around the eyes are particularly considered in the context of the present invention.
[0022] The composition according to the present invention comprises: i. at least one extract of sphingomonas ferment; ii. at least one carrageenan; and iii. at least one non-ionic polysaccharide selected from among the homopolymers of mannose, mannose and glucose copolymers, mannose and galactose copolymers, and one of their combinations. Sphingomonas ferment extract
[0023] According to the first aspect, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one extract of Sphingomonas ferment.
[0024] Sphingomonas ferment extract is the extract of the product obtained by the fermentation of Sphingomonas. It is known to contain glycosphingolipids (GSLs) such as seramide, dihydrosphingosine, and glucuronic acid, and is valued for its reduction of lipid peroxidation and its effect on key biomarkers of senescence, thereby preventing skin aging.
[0025] The extracts according to the invention can be prepared by any conventional process well known to those skilled in the art. These processes generally include a step of fermentation, isolation, separation and purification.
[0026] Bacteria of the genus Sphingomonas are generally cultured in a suitable medium and grown to a desired density. The bacteria themselves can be concentrated by any known method, such as centrifugation. The concentrated bacteria can then be used directly as a crude preparation, or further processing steps, well known to those skilled in the art, can be carried out, such as freeze-drying, dehydration, filtration, purification, freezing possibly followed by thawing, sterilization, column chromatography, grinding, etc.
[0027] Preferably, the bacterial extract is a bacterial lysate comprising, in particular, the compounds contained within the bacterium, and therefore present in the bacterial pellet of the bacterial culture after centrifugation. Preferably, the bacterial extract is a bacterial lysate comprising the intracellular medium and / or the constituent elements of the cell walls and / or membranes.
[0028] A lysate commonly refers to a substance obtained at the end of the destruction or dissolution of biological cells by a phenomenon called cell lysis, thus causing the release of intracellular biological constituents naturally contained in the cells of the microorganism in question.
[0029] For the purposes of the present invention, the term lysate is used interchangeably to designate the entire lysate obtained by lysis of the microorganism concerned or only a fraction thereof.
[0030] The lysate used is therefore formed in whole or in part from intracellular biological constituents and from constituents of cell walls and membranes.
[0031] This cell lysis can be achieved using different technologies, such as osmotic shock, thermal shock such as freezing followed optionally by thawing, ultrasound, or under mechanical stress such as centrifugation, for example.
[0032] Preferably, the lysate used in the context of the present invention is obtained by a process comprising the following steps: i. a centrifugation step; ii. a step of recovering the pellet; iii. a step of freezing the pellet; iv. a step of thawing the pellet; v. optionally, a sterilization step by autoclaving, in particular at 121 °C.
[0033] In a preferred embodiment of the invention, the bacterial extract comprises an inactivated bacterium.
[0034] Here, "inactivated" has the meaning commonly used by those skilled in the art, namely the suppression of bacterial activity by various means (heat, chemical, mechanical, or enzymatic substances). The bacteria are preferably inactivated by heat, more preferably by autoclaving.
[0035] Preferably, the bacterium of the extract according to the invention is Sphingomonas xenophaga. In a more preferred embodiment, the bacterium is a Sphingomonas xenophaga registered in accordance with the Treaty of Budapest, on November 21, 2019, with the National Collection of Microorganism Cultures ((CNCM), Paris, France) under number CNCM 1-5455 by L'Oréal, 101 Avenue Gustave Eiffel, 37390 Notre Dame d'Oé.
[0036] As examples of commercial Sphingomonas ferment extract products useful in the composition according to the present invention, one can cite that sold under the name of MEXORYL® SDT by the company NOVEAL.
[0037] Advantageously, the Sphingomonas ferment extract is present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.0001% by weight to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.0003% by weight to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.0005% by weight to 1% by weight, even more preferably from 0.008% by weight to 0.5% by weight, most preferably from 0.001% by weight to 0.2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Carrageenan
[0038] According to the first aspect, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one carrageenan.
[0039] Carrageenans are sulfated polysaccharides that constitute the cell walls of various red algae, from which they can be obtained. Among these red algae, the following may be mentioned without limitation: Kappaphycus alvarezii, Eucheuma denticulatum, Eucheuma spinosum, Chondrus crispus, Betaphycus gelatinum, Gigartina skottsbergii, Gigartina canaliculata, Sarcothalia crispata, Mazzaella laminaroides, Hypnea musciformis, Mastocarpus stellatus and Irea cordata.
[0040] Carrageenans comprise long galactan chains formed by disaccharide motifs. These polysaccharides are composed of alternating (1→3)[3-D-galactopyranose (motif G) and (1→4)α-galactopyranose (motif D) or 3,6-anhydro-α-galactopyranose (motif AnGal). Each sugar motif may be sulfated once or more at positions 2, 3, 4, or 6. Methyl and pyruvic acid groups, as well as other sugar motifs grafted onto the basic structures described above, may also be present. Carrageenans were initially subdivided into subfamilies based on their solubility in KCl, and subsequently according to the number and position of the sulfate groups and the presence of 3',6'-anhydro bridges on the galactopyranosyl residues. At least 15 carrageenans are listed, the structure of which depends on the original algae and the extraction process.Among the most common, we can mention the following carrageenans: q-carrageenan ((1—>3) [3-D-galactopyranose-4-sulfate-( 1 —>4)-α-D-galactopyranose-6-sulfate), K-carrageenan ((1—>3) [3-D-galactopyranose-4-sulfate-(1—>4) 3,6-anhydro-α-D-galactopyranose ), v-carrageenan ((1—>3) [3-D-galactopyranose-4-sulfate-( 1 —>4)-α-D-galactopyranose-2,6-disulfate), r-carrageenan ((1—>3) [3-D-galactopyranose-4-sulfate- (1—>4) 3,6-anhydro-α-D-galactopyranose-2-sulfatesulfate)), X-carraghénane ((1—>3) [3-D-galactopyranose-2-sulfate-( 1 —>4)- aD-galactopyranose-2,6-disulfate), y -carrageenan (( 1 —>3) [3-D-galactopyranose-2-sulfate-( 1 —>4) 3,6-anhydro-aD-galactopyranose-2-sulfate, ^-carrageenan ((1—>3) [3-D-galactopyranose-2-sulfate-(1—>4) 3,6-anhydro-aD-galactopyranose-2-sulfate.
[0041] These carrageenans can be obtained in the form of mixtures of different structures such as, but not limited to, mixtures of the forms k[3, kt and Kq.
[0042] The carrageenans are preferably chosen from carrageenans of type q, K, v, r or X, and their mixtures in all proportions, preferably of type K.
[0043] The carrageenans of the present invention can be used in acidic or salt form. Acceptable salts, which may be cited without limitation, include lithium, sodium, potassium, calcium, zinc, and ammonium salts, or salts obtained with an organic base counterion, such as a primary, secondary, or tertiary (C1-C6) alkylamine, in particular triethylamine or butylamine. This primary, secondary, or tertiary alkylamine may comprise one or more nitrogen and / or oxygen atoms and may thus comprise, for example, One or more alcohol groups; examples include 2-amino-2-methyl-2-propanol, triethanolamine, and dimethylamino-2-propanol. Lysine and 3-(dimethylamino)propylamine may also be mentioned. These sulfated polysaccharides may also include a mixture of counterions from among those defined above, without limitation.
[0044] Preferably, the average molecular weight by weight of the carrageenans useful for the present invention is from 300 to 100,000,000 g / mol, more preferably from 10,000 to 10,000,000 g / mol.
[0045] The sulfur content (counted as SO42) of carrageenans is preferably between 5% and 40% (calculated on a weight basis relative to the total weight of the carrageenan), more preferably between 7% and 25%, and even more preferably between 15% and 20%.
[0046] Preferably, the carrageenans used in the invention comprise mainly the K-form or are in the K-form. The term "mainly" means that the percentage of this type of chain in the product composition is greater than or equal to 50%, this proportion possibly being greater than or equal to 80% in certain embodiments. These carrageenans may be those sold under the name CARRAGEENAN BLK1120 by the company BLG.
[0047] Advantageously, carrageenan is present in the composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.005% by weight to 6% by weight, preferably from 0.01% by weight to 4% by weight, more preferably from 0.02% by weight to 1% by weight, even more preferably from 0.03% by weight to 0.5% by weight, most preferably from 0.05% by weight to 0.3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Non-ionic polysaccharides
[0048] According to the first aspect, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one non-ionic polysaccharide selected from mannose homopolymers, mannose and glucose copolymers, mannose and galactose copolymers, and one of their combinations.
[0049] Preferably, homopolymers indicate polymers with a degree of polymerization between 2 and 6.
[0050] Preferably, the copolymers indicate polymers with a number average molecular weight of 10,000 to 2,000,000 g / mol, preferably 20,000 to 1,000,000 g / mol, more preferably 50,000 to 500,000 g / mol.
[0051] Preferably, the non-ionic polysaccharide is chosen from mannan, glucomannan, galactomannan, and one of their combinations.
[0052] Gums comprising mannan, glucomannan, galactomannan, or one of their combinations can also be used as a non-ionic polysaccharide in the composition of the present invention.
[0053] Thus, preferably, the non-ionic polysaccharide is chosen from mannan, glucomannan, galactomannan, konjac gum, Bletilla striata gum, guar gum, fenugreek gum, sesbania gum, carob gum, cassia gum and one of their combinations.
[0054] More preferably, the non-ionic polysaccharide is chosen from glucomannan, konjac gum, Bletilla striata gum and one of their combinations.
[0055] As examples of commercial glucomannan products useful in the composition according to the present invention, we can cite those sold under the name KONJAC GEL CKAA1220 by the company XieLi, and those sold under the name KONJAC FLOUR HWG1002 by the company BLG.
[0056] Advantageously, the non-ionic polysaccharide is present in the composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.01% by weight to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.02% by weight to 6% by weight, more preferably from 0.05% by weight to 1.5% by weight, even more preferably from 0.1% by weight to 0.8% by weight, most preferably from 0.15% by weight to 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0057] Preferably, the total amount of carrageenan and non-ionic polysaccharide in the composition of the present invention is 0.05% by weight to 2% by weight, preferably 0.1% by weight to 1% by weight, more preferably 0.3% by weight to 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Ionic polysaccharide distinct from carrageenan
[0058] Preferably, the composition of the present invention comprises one or more ionic polysaccharides different from carrageenan.
[0059] Preferably, the ionic polysaccharide other than carrageenan is chosen from xanthan gum, gellan gum and one of their combinations.
[0060] Xanthan gum is a heteropolysaccharide produced by the aerobic fermentation of the bacterium Xanthomonas campestris. Its structure consists of a main chain of [3-D-glucose [3(1,4)-linked, similar to cellulose. Every other glucose molecule carries a trisaccharide side chain composed of an α-D-mannose, a [3-D-glucuronic acid, and a terminal [3-D-mannose]. The internal mannose residue is generally acetylated at carbon 6. Approximately 30% of the terminal mannose residues bear a pyruvate group linked in chelated form between carbons 4 and 6. The charged glucuronic and pyruvic acids are ionizable and are therefore responsible for the anionic nature of xanthan gum (negative charge up to a pH of 1) These groups can be neutralized in commercial products with Na+, K+ or Ca2+ ions (Satia company, 1986). The neutralized form can be converted to the acidic form by ion exchange or by dialysis of an acidic solution.
[0061] Gellan gum has a recurring tetrasaccharide structure composed of (glucose-glucuronic acid-glucose-rhamose) motifs.
[0062] The partial structure of gellan gum is as follows:
[0063] -4)-L-Rhap-(al-3)-D-Glcp-([3-l-4)-D-GlcpA-([3-l-4)-D-Glcp-([3-l-.
[0064] The inventors discovered that the presence of the ionic polysaccharide different from carrageenan, chosen from xanthan gum, gellan gum and a combination thereof, is also beneficial to the sweetness of the composition.
[0065] Advantageously, the ionic polysaccharide different from carrageenan is present in the composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.01% by weight to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.03% by weight to 6% by weight, more preferably from 0.05% by weight to 3% by weight, even more preferably from 0.1% by weight to 2% by weight, most preferably from 0.15% by weight to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Surfactants
[0066] Preferably, the composition of the present invention comprises one or more surfactants selected from fatty acid polyglyceryl esters with a sugar fraction.
[0067] Preferably, the polyglyceryl fraction is derived from 2 to 10 glycerol motifs.
[0068] Preferably, the fatty acid is chosen from C12-C22 fatty acids.
[0069] The fatty acid polyglyceryl ester may be selected from the group consisting of PG2 laurate, PG2 dilaurate, PG2 trilaurate, PG2 myristate, PG2 dimyristate, PG2 trimyristate, PG2 palmitate, PG2 dipalmitate, PG2 tripalmitate, PG2 stearate, PG2 distearate, PG2 tristearate, PG2 isostearate, PG2 diisostearate, PG2 triisostearate, PG2 oleate, PG2 dioleate, PG2 trioleate, PG3 laurate, PG3 dilaurate, PG3 trilaurate, PG3 myristate, PG3 dimyristate, PG3 trimyristate, PG3 palmitate, PG3 dipalmitate, PG3 tripalmitate, PG3 stearate, PG3 distearate, PG3 tristearate, PG3 isostearate, PG3 diisostearate, PG3 triisostearate, PG3 oleate, PG3 dioleate, PG3 trioleate, PG4 laurate, PG4 dilaurate, PG4 trilaurate, PG4 myristate, PG4 dimyristate, PG4 trimyristate, PG4 palmitate, PG4 dipalmitate, PG4 tripalmitate, PG4 stearate, PG4 distearate, PG4 tristearate, PG4 isostearate, PG4 diisostearate, PG4 triisostearate, PG4 oleate, PG4 dioleate, PG4 trioleate, PG5 laurate, PG5 dilaurate, PG5 trilauratePG5 myristate, PG5 dimyristate, PG5 trimyristate, PG5 palmitate, PG5 dipalmitate, PG5 tripalmitate, PG5 stearate, PG5 distearate, PG5 Tristearate, PG5 isostearate, PG5 diisostearate, PG5 triisostearate, PG5 oleate, PG5 dioleate, PG5 trioleate, PG6 laurate, PG6 dilaurate, , PG6 trilaurate, PG6 myristate, PG6 dimyristate, PG6 trimyristate, PG6 palmitate, PG6 dipalmitate, PG6 tripalmitate, PG6 stearate, PG6 distearate, PG6 tristearate, PG6 isostearate, PG6 dusostearate, PG6 triisostearate, PG6 oleate, PG6 dioleate, PG6 trioleate, PG 10 laurate, PG 10 dilaurate, PG 10 trilaurate, PG 10 myristate, PG 10 dimyristate, PG 10 trimyristate, PG 10 palmitate, PG 10 dipalmitate, PG 10 tripalmitate, PG10 stearate, PG10 distearate, PG10 tristearate PG10 isostearate, PG10 desostearate, PG10 triisostearate, PG10 oleate, PG10 dioleate and PG10 trioleate.
[0070] Preferably, the sugar fraction is derived from sucrose, maltose, glucose, fructose or methylglucose.
[0071] Thus, preferably, the surfactant is chosen from C10-C22 fatty acid polyglyceryl esters with a sugar fraction derived from sucrose, maltose, glucose, fructose or methylglucose, preferably the polyglyceryl fraction is derived from 2 to 10 glycerol motifs.
[0072] More preferably, the composition of the present invention comprises polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose distearate.
[0073] Advantageously, the surfactant chosen from among the polyglyceryl esters of fatty acids with a sugar fraction is present in the composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.01% by weight to 2% by weight, preferably from 0.02% by weight to 1% by weight, more preferably from 0.03% by weight to 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Aqueous phase
[0074] Preferably, the composition of the present invention comprises an aqueous phase.
[0075] Preferably, said aqueous phase comprises water.
[0076] Advantageously, water is present in the composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 60% by weight to 99% by weight, preferably from 65% by weight to 95% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0077] Preferably, the aqueous phase comprises an organic solvent miscible with water (at room temperature of 25 °C) selected from ethanol and polyols having from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably from 2 to 10 carbon atoms, and preferably having from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, and one of their combinations, such as glycerin, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, diethylene glycol; and one of their combinations.
[0078] Preferably, the water-miscible organic solvent, in particular glycerin, is present in the composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.5% by weight to 30% by weight, preferably from 1% by weight to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0079] Advantageously, the aqueous phase is present in the composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 60% by weight to 99.5% by weight, preferably from 65% by weight to 99% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0080] Preferably, the composition according to the present invention is oil-free.
[0081] The term "oil" refers to a fatty substance that is liquid at temperature ambient (25 °C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg, i.e. 1.013*105Pa).
[0082] As used herein, the expression "oil-free" indicates that the amount of oil in the composition of the present invention is less than 2% by weight, preferably less than 1% by weight, even more preferably less than 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition of the present invention. Additional cosmetic active ingredients
[0083] Depending on the final objective, the composition according to the present invention may include one or more additional cosmetic active ingredients.
[0084] It is easy for a person skilled in the art to adjust the quantity of additional cosmetic active ingredients according to the final use of the composition according to the present invention. Additional adjuvants or additives
[0085] The composition of the present invention may include additional conventional cosmetic adjuvants or additives, for example, perfumes, chelating agents, pH correcting agents, and mixtures thereof.
[0086] A person skilled in the art can choose the quantity of additional adjuvants or additives so that it does not negatively affect the final use of the composition according to the present invention.
[0087] According to a preferred embodiment, the present invention proposes a composition in the form of a hydrogel, comprising, relative to the total weight of the composition, i. from 0.001% by weight to 0.2% by weight of Sphingomonas ferment extract; ii. from 0.03% by weight to 0.5% by weight of carrageenan; and iii. from 0.1% by weight to 0.8% by weight of a non-ionic polysaccharide selected from glucomannan, konjac gum, Bletilla striata gum and one of their combinations.
[0088] The composition according to the present invention is intended to be used in combination with a cotton fabric for a mask, preferably a cotton fabric insoluble in water.
[0089] For the purposes of the invention, the expression "insoluble in water" means that the cotton fabric for the mask is not soluble in water and does not disintegrate when immersed in water.
[0090] A person skilled in the art can choose an appropriate mask fleece fabric and the weight ratio between the mask fleece fabric used and the composition according to the present invention based on the nature of the composition.
[0091] The wadding fabric for the mask may be a woven, knitted, or non-woven fabric made of natural fibers such as cotton, paper pulp, bamboo, and cellulose fibers, semi-natural fibers such as viscose rayon fibers, and synthetic fibers such as polyester fibers, polyethylene terephthalate fibers, polyethylene fibers, and polypropylene fibers. Two or more fibers selected from the above may be used in combination.
[0092] The quilted fabric for the mask may consist of one or more layers. If a multi-layered quilted fabric is used, the material of each layer may be the same or different from the others. The multi-layered quilted fabric may be prepared by laminating multiple layers made from the materials mentioned above.
[0093] The quilted fabric for masks can have a wide variety of shapes, depending on the desired use and the characteristics of the mask.
[0094] The cotton-like fabric for the mask is typically designed to conform to the area of skin on which topical application is desired. For example, when the mask is applied to the face, the cotton-like fabric for the mask is designed to match the shape of the face, avoiding, if necessary, the areas of the eyes, nostrils, and mouth.
[0095] A person skilled in the art can determine the thickness and texture of the quilted fabric for the mask according to its intended use.
[0096] Thus, according to the second aspect, the present invention proposes a mask, preferably for the treatment of keratinous materials, comprising: A. a quilted fabric for a mask, and B. the composition according to the first aspect of the present invention on the quilted fabric for mask. Preparation and use
[0097] The composition and mask according to the present invention can be prepared by routine practice.
[0098] Preferably, the composition according to the present invention is in the form of a hydrogel.
[0099] The composition and mask according to the present invention are intended for topical application and can be used in particular for the care of keratinous materials, and in particular human skin.
[0100] According to the third aspect, the present invention proposes a non-therapeutic method for the care of keratinous materials, comprising the application of the composition or mask according to the present invention to the keratinous materials.
[0101] In particular, keratinous materials are the skin of the face and / or the skin around the eyes.
[0102] The present invention is illustrated in more detail by the examples described below, which are given by way of non-limiting illustrations. EXAMPLES
[0103] The main raw materials used, their trade names and their suppliers are listed in Table 1.
[0104] [Tables 1] INCI Name Trade Name Supplier Sphingomonas Ferment Extract (Sphingomonas ferment extract) MEXORYL® SDT NOVEAL Carrageenan (Carrageenan) CARRAGEENAN BL 120 BLG Glucomannan (Glucomannan) KONJAC FLOUR H WG 1002 BLG Xanthan Gum (Xanthan gum) KELTROL® CG-T CP KELCO Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate (Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose distearate) TEGO® CARE 450 MB EVONIK GOLDSCHMI DT
[0105] Inventive examples 1-3 and comparative examples 1-3
[0106] The compositions of inventive examples (El.) 1-3 and comparative examples (EC) 1-3 were prepared according to the quantities of components given in Table 2. The quantity of each component is given as % by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, unless otherwise indicated as active ingredient (AI).
[0107] [Tables2] Components El. 1 DI 2 DI 3 EC. 1 EC. 2 EC. 3 Sphingomonas ferment extract (Sphin gomonas ferment extract) 0.088 (MA) 0.031 (MA) 0.004 (MA) 0 0 0.031 (MA) Carrageenan (Carrageen an) 0.12 0.12 0.12 0.12 0.8 0 Glucomannan (Glucomannan) 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.15 0.2 Xanthan Gum (Xanthan Gum) 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.2 0.4 Glycerin (Glycerin) 7 7 7 7 10 7 Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate (Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate) 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 Water QS100 QS100 QS100 QS100 QS100 QS100
[0108] The compositions of inventive examples 1 to 3 represent the compositions of the present invention.
[0109] The compositions of comparative examples 1 and 2 do not include at least one extract of Sphingomonas ferment.
[0110] The composition of comparative example 3 does not include carrageenan. Preparation of compositions
[0111] The above compositions were prepared as follows: 1. Preparation of phase A: Mix carrageenan (if present), glucomannan and xanthan gum in glycerin with stirring to obtain a mixture, introduce the mixture into water at 80°C with stirring for 30 minutes; 2. Introduction of the sphingomonas ferment extract (if present) into phase A at 80°C with stirring for 5 minutes to obtain the compositions. Preparing the masks
[0112] 30 g of each composition of inventive examples (E1) 1-3 and examples comparators (EC) 1-3 were weighed and coated on 1 g of a fabric made from cellulose using a coating machine to obtain a mask. Assessment
[0113] The softness of each composition obtained and its affinity with the skin were evaluated. Candy
[0114] The softness of the compositions of inventive examples (E1) 1-3 and comparative examples (CE) 1 to 3 was characterized by the resistance to freezing in the test with a texture analyzer called Stable Micro Systems TA.XT Plus available from Lotun Science as follows.
[0115] A sample at a temperature of 80 °C was poured into a cylinder with a diameter of 68 mm and a height of 25 mm in sufficient quantity to form a smooth, homogeneous, and defect-free surface. The sample was left to coagulate in the cylinder at room temperature overnight. The tests were then carried out according to the manufacturer's specifications under the following conditions: Test mode: compression Pre-test speed: 1 mm / s Test speed: 2 mm / s Post-test velocity: 10 mm / s Target mode: distance Strength: 100 g Penetration distance: 8 mm Trigger type: Auto (force) Trigger force: 5 g
[0116] The strength at 8 mm was read as the freeze resistance for each sample. The freeze resistance results for each composition tested are listed in Table 3.
[0117] The freeze-thaw resistance value is expressed as "g". The lower the freeze-thaw resistance, the softer the composition. A freeze-thaw resistance of less than 200 g is acceptable. Affinity
[0118] The affinity of the compositions of inventive examples (El) 1-3 and comparative examples (EC) 1-3 with skin was evaluated as follows.
[0119] 20 volunteers were invited to apply masks containing the composition to The test was performed on their face with the composition in contact with the face, and the following movements were carried out while leaving the mask in place: a. blinking the eyes 10 times; b. moving the eyes to the right, to the left, clockwise, counterclockwise, each time 3 times; c. mouth movement while saying "e", "i", "u", each time 3 times; d. downward movement of the face 3 times; e. face movement to the right on 45# then to the left on 45#, each time 3 times.
[0120] Next, the skin affinity score of the test composition was provided by the volunteers according to the following standard and averaged:
[0121] 0-1: detaches from the facial skin over more than 50% of the surface
[0122] 1-2: detaches from the facial skin over 30 to 50% of the surface
[0123] 2-3: slightly detaches from the facial skin over 20 to 30% of the surface
[0124] 3-4: slightly detaches from the facial skin over 10 to 20% of the surface
[0125] 4-5: detaches very slightly from the facial skin over 5 to 10% of the surface
[0126] 5-6: hardly detaches from the facial skin, detachment on 0 to 5% of the surface.
[0127] The freeze resistance of the compositions of the inventive examples (El) 1-3 and of the comparative examples (EC) 1-3 obtained and their affinity with the skin have been listed in Table 3.
[0128] [Tables3] Properties ELI EL 2 EL 3 EC. 1 EC. 2 EC. 3 Freeze resistance (g) 180 140 190 300 560 90 Affinity 5.2 5.8 5.7 3.1 1.2 ND
[0129] ND: Not evaluated because the composition is too dry to be fixed to the skin.
[0130] It can be observed that each composition of the examples of the invention has a freeze resistance value of less than 200, and that the affinity score of each example of the invention is greater than 5, which means that the compositions of the examples of the invention are gentle and have a good affinity with the skin.
Claims
Demands
1. Composition, preferably for the care of keratinous materials, comprising: (i) at least one extract of sphingomonas ferment; (ii) at least one carrageenan; and (iii) at least one nonionic polysaccharide selected from mannose homopolymers, mannose-glucose copolymers, mannose-galactose copolymers, and one of their combinations.
2. Composition according to claim 1, wherein the carrageenan is selected from carrageenans of type q, K, v, r or X, and mixtures thereof in all proportions, preferably of type K carrageenan.
3. Composition according to any one of claims 1 or 2, the non-ionic polysaccharide being selected from mannan, glucomannan, galactomannan, konjac gum, Bletilla striata gum, guar gum, fenugreek gum, sesbania gum, carob gum, cassia gum, and a combination thereof, more preferably, the non-ionic polysaccharide being selected from glucomannan, konjac gum, Bletilla striata gum, and a combination thereof.
4. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the total amount of carrageenan and nonionic polysaccharide in the composition is from 0.05% by weight to 2% by weight, preferably from 0.1% by weight to 1% by weight, more preferably from 0.3% by weight to 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
5. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, further comprising one or more surfactants selected from fatty acid polyglyceryl esters with a sugar fraction, the surfactant preferably selected from C10-C22 fatty acid polyglyceryl esters with a sugar fraction derived from sucrose, maltose, glucose, fructose, or methylglucose, more preferably the polyglyceryl fraction being derived from 2 to 10 glycerol units, even more preferably the surfactant being polyglyceryl-3-methylglucose distearate, preferably the surfactant being present in an amount from 0.01% by weight to 2 % by weight, preferably from 0.02% by weight to 1% by weight, more preferably from 0.03% by weight to 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
6. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, which is oil-free.
7. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, which is in hydrogel form.
8. Composition according to claim 1, which is in the form of a hydrogel comprising, relative to the total weight of the composition, (i) 0.001% by weight to 0.2% by weight of Sphingomonas ferment extract; (ii) 0.03% by weight to 0.5% by weight of carrageenan; and (iii) 0.1% by weight to 0.8% by weight of a non-ionic polysaccharide selected from glucomannan, konjac gum, Bletilla striata gum and a combination thereof.
9. Mask, preferably for the care of keratinous materials, comprising: A) a quilted mask fabric; and B) the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8 on the quilted mask fabric.
10. Non-therapeutic method of caring for keratinous materials, comprising applying the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8 or the mask according to claim 9 to keratinous materials.