COSMETIC SUNSCREEN COMPOSITION AND USE OF COSMETIC SUNSCREEN COMPOSITION
A cosmetic sunscreen composition with fatty compounds, carnauba wax, filler, surfactant, and UV filter system provides a fluid/light texture with high SPF, good sensory attributes, and ecological ingredients, overcoming the limitations of existing sunscreens.
Patent Information
- Authority / Receiving Office
- FR · FR
- Patent Type
- Utility models
- Current Assignee / Owner
- LOREAL SA
- Filing Date
- 2024-06-11
- Publication Date
- 2026-04-17
AI Technical Summary
Existing cosmetic sunscreens fail to provide a fluid/light texture with high SPF, good sensory attributes, easy spreading, and ecological ingredients while maintaining stability and non-greasy application.
A cosmetic sunscreen composition comprising at least one fatty compound, Copemicia cerifera (carnauba) wax, a filler, a surfactant, and a UV filter system, optimized in specific weight percentages to achieve a fluid/light form with high SPF, good sensory properties, and ecological ingredients.
The composition offers a high SPF, easy spreading, and a light film with satisfactory sensory perception, while being stable and environmentally friendly, addressing the needs of consumers seeking effective photoprotection.
Abstract
Description
Title of the invention: COSMETIC SUNSCREEN COMPOSITION AND USE OF THE COSMETIC SUNSCREEN COMPOSITION. SCOPE OF THE INVENTION
[0001] The present invention relates to a cosmetic sunscreen composition comprising (a) at least one fatty compound, (b) Copemicia cerifera (carnauba) wax, (c) at least one filler, (d) at least one surfactant, and (e) a UV filter system. The present invention also relates to a process for manufacturing the cosmetic sunscreen composition and its use. CONTEXT OF THE INVENTION
[0002] Photoprotection of keratinous materials, including skin and hair, is considered of great importance to ensure protection against sun damage, sunburn, photoaging, and to reduce the risk of developing skin cancer caused by exposure to ultraviolet (“UV”) radiation. There are generally two types of UVA / UVB sunscreen compositions used to achieve photoprotection: inorganic UV filters and organic UV filters.
[0003] Consumers are concerned about the negative effects of sun exposure, particularly the harmful effects of ultraviolet (“UV”) radiation. Prolonged exposure to sunlight causes skin damage, such as sunburn. When skin is exposed to UV radiation with a wavelength of approximately 290 nm to approximately 400 nm, long-term damage can lead to serious conditions, such as skin cancer. UV light also contributes to aging by causing the formation of free radicals in the skin. Free radicals include, for example, singlet oxygen, hydroxyl radicals, superoxide anions, nitric oxide, and hydrogen radicals. Free radicals attack DNA, membrane lipids, and proteins, generating carbon radicals.These, in turn, react with oxygen to produce a peroxyl radical, which can attack adjacent fatty acids to generate new carbon radicals. This cascade leads to a chain reaction producing lipid peroxidation products. Damage to the cell membrane results in a loss of cell permeability, an increase in intercellular ion concentration, and a decreased ability to excrete or detoxify waste. The end result is a loss of skin elasticity and the appearance of wrinkles. This process is commonly referred to as photoaging.
[0004] In this sense, in a skin care ritual, consumers apply cosmetic sunscreen compositions to protect the skin and the perception of the product on the skin is very important.
[0005] Consumers are increasingly seeking fluid / light textures of cosmetic sunscreen that fit within their photoprotection range, while protecting the skin with a high degree of UV protection (UVA / UVB).
[0006] The degree of UV protection of a cosmetic sunscreen composition is directly related to the quantity and type of UV filters it contains. The higher the quantity of UV filters, the higher the degree of UV protection (UVA / UVB).
[0007] In particular, sunscreen compositions must offer good protection against the sun, one measure of which is the Sun Protection Factor (SPF) value, while presenting a satisfactory, but non-greasy, sensory perception upon application.
[0008] For the aforementioned reasons, there is a need to develop new fluid / light cosmetic sunscreen compositions having the following properties: exhibiting high stability, comprising ecological ingredients, having good sensory properties, exhibiting good absorption and spreading ability, and offering a high sun protection factor.
[0009] The inventors of the present invention have overcome the drawbacks of the prior art and have unexpectedly obtained a fluid / light cosmetic sunscreen composition comprising the aforementioned properties, exhibiting a high SPF, good sensory attributes, easy spreading, a light film, ecological ingredients and being stable, comprising: (a) at least one fatty compound, (b) Copemicia cerifera (camauba) wax, (c) at least one filler, (d) at least one surfactant and (e) a UV filter system. Summary of the invention
[0010] The present invention relates to a cosmetic sunscreen composition comprising (a) at least one fatty compound, (b) Copemicia cerifera (camauba) wax, (c) at least one filler, (d) at least one surfactant, and (e) a UV filter system. The present invention also relates to the use of the cosmetic sunscreen composition as a daily sunscreen product.
[0011] Other features and advantages of the present invention will become apparent from the following more detailed description of desirable embodiments which illustrate, by way of example, the principles of the invention. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION
[0012] In a preferred embodiment, the cosmetic sunscreen composition of the present invention comprises: a. at least one fatty compound selected from isopropyl myristate, diisopropyl sebacate, dicaprylyl carbonate, propylene glycol dicaprylate / dicaprate, and mixtures thereof; b. a Copemicia cerifera (carnauba) wax; c. at least one filler chosen from silica silylate, silica, pearlite, and combinations thereof; d. at least one surfactant selected from stearic acid, glyceryl stearate (and) PEG-100 stearate, potassium cetyl phosphate and combinations thereof; and e. a UV filter system.
[0013] In a preferred embodiment, at least one fatty compound is present in the range of about 0.1% to about 20.0% by weight, preferably in an amount of about 0.5% to about 18.0%, most preferably in an amount of about 1.5% to about 16.0%, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0014] In a preferred embodiment, Copemicia cerifera (carnauba) wax is present in the range of about 0.5% to about 10.0% by weight, preferably in an amount of about 1.25% to about 5.0%, most preferably in an amount of about 1.5% to about 2.5%, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0015] In a preferred embodiment, at least one filler is present in the range of about 0.05% to 4.0% by weight, preferably in an amount of about 0.1% to about 3.0%, most preferably in an amount of about 0.2% to about 2.4%, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0016] In a preferred embodiment, at least one surfactant is present in the range of about 0.05% to about 10.0% by weight, preferably in an amount of about 0.5% to about 3.0%, most preferably in an amount of about 0.5% to about 2.5%, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0017] In a preferred embodiment, the UV filter system is selected from ethylhexyltriazone, hexyl diethylaminohydroxybenzoylbenzoate, isotridecyl phosphate, bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyltriazine, butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, drometrizole trisiloxane, ethylhexyl salicylate, ethylhexyltriazone, homosalate, methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol, octocrylene, phenylbenzozimidazolesulfonic acid, polyglyceryl-10 laurate, terephthalylidene diamphr sulfonic acid, trisodium ethylenediaminedisuccinate, and combinations thereof.
[0018] In a preferred embodiment, the UV filter system is present in the range of about 5.0% to about 25.0% by weight, preferably in an amount of about 7.5% to 17.5%, most preferably in an amount of about 10.0% to about 14.0%, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0019] The cosmetic sunscreen composition of the present invention is in a fluid / light form.
[0020] In a preferred embodiment, the cosmetic composition of the present invention has a sun protection factor of at least 15, preferably of at least 50.
[0021] In another preferred embodiment, the cosmetic composition of the present invention further comprises cosmetically acceptable ingredients selected from additional sunscreens, a perfume / fragrance, preservatives, solvents, active compounds, surfactants, fatty compounds, vitamins, fillers, silicones, polymers, pigments, a buffer, a masking agent and mixtures thereof.
[0022] In another preferred embodiment, the cosmetic composition of the invention is in the form of an oil-in-water (O / W) emulsion and can be used as a daily sunscreen product. TERMS
[0023] The cosmetic sunscreen composition of the present invention may include, consist of, or consist essentially of the essential elements and limitations of the invention described herein, as well as any of the additional or optional ingredients, components or limitations described herein.
[0024] All ranges and values disclosed here are inclusive and combinable. For example, any value or point described here that falls within a range described here can serve as a minimum or maximum value to deduce a subrange, etc.
[0025] As used herein, the expression "at least" means one or more and therefore includes individual components as well as mixtures / combinations.
[0026] Except in the functional examples, or unless otherwise indicated, all numbers expressing quantities of ingredients and / or reaction conditions are understood to be modified in all cases by the term "approximately", meaning to within + / - 5% of the number indicated.
[0027] As used herein, all provided ranges are intended to include each specific range within the given ranges, as well as a combination of subranges between the given ranges. Thus, a range from 1 to 5 specifically includes 1, 2, 3, 4, and 5, as well as subranges such as 2 to 5, 3 to 5, 2 to 3, 2 to 4, 1 to 4, etc. All ranges and values disclosed herein are inclusive and combinable. For example, any value or point described herein that falls within a range described herein can serve as a minimum or maximum value for deducing a subrange, etc. FAT COMPOUNDS
[0028] In addition to the fatty compounds of the cosmetic sunscreen composition described above, the composition of the present invention may also include additional fatty compounds selected from oils, waxes, fatty acids, fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof. As used herein, the term "fatty compounds" does not include the carnauba wax described below.
[0029] The waxes useful for the present invention may be of mineral, fossil, animal, or vegetable origin, hydrogenated oils, or mixtures thereof. Non-limiting examples of waxes include hydrocarbon-based waxes such as beeswax, candelilla wax, ouricury wax, Japanese wax, cork fiber waxes or sugar cane waxes, paraffin waxes, lignite waxes, microcrystalline waxes, lanolin wax, Montan wax, ozokerites, synthetic waxes, polyethylene waxes, waxes obtained by Fischer-Tropsch synthesis, hydrogenated oils, and glycerides that are solid at 25 °C. Silicone waxes may also be used, including alkyl-, alkoxy-, and / or polymethylsiloxane esters.
[0030] Examples of oils that can be used in the invention include polar or slightly polar oils, that is, oils containing an alkyl chain, preferably a C3-C40 alkyl chain. Non-limiting examples of oils to be used in the present invention include:
[0031] - linear or branched hydrocarbons such as liquid paraffin, isohexadecane, liquid petroleum jelly and light naphthalene oils, and lanolin, vegetable hydrocarbon oils, such as glyceride triesters, which are generally fatty acid and glycerol triesters, the fatty acids of which may have varying chain lengths from C4 to C24, these chains being able to be saturated or unsaturated and linear or branched;These oils include, in particular, wheat germ oil, sunflower oil, grapeseed oil, sesame oil, corn oil, apricot oil, castor oil, shea butter, avocado oil, olive oil, soybean oil, sweet almond oil, palm oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, hazelnut oil, macadamia oil, jojoba oil, alfalfa oil, poppy oil, pumpkin seed oil, squash seed oil, blackcurrant oil, evening primrose oil, millet oil, barley oil, quinoa oil, rye oil, safflower oil, candlenut oil, passionflower oil, and rosehip oil; or also caprylic / capric acid triglycerides;
[0032] - synthetic esters, for example RCOOR' formula oils in which R represents a linear or branched fatty acid residue containing 1 to 40 carbon atoms, and R' represents a hydrocarbon chain that is particularly branched, containing 1 to 40 carbon atoms, provided that R + R' is equal to >10, per Examples include cetearyl octanate, isopropyl palmitate, a Cn-Cis alkyl benzoate, 2-ethylphenyl benzoate, isopropyl lanolate, hexyl laurate, diisopropyl adipate, isononyl isononanoate, oleyl erucate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isostearyl isostearate, octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or polyalcohols, such as propylene glycol dioctanoate; hydroxylated esters, such as isostearyl lactate or diisostearyl malate; and pentaerythritol esters; citrates or tartrates, such as linear C12-C13 di(alkyl) tartrates, and also linear C|4-C|3 di(alkyl) tartrates, or acetates,
[0033] - silicone oils such as polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), including optionally a C3-C40 alkyl or alkoxy chain or a phenyl chain, such as phenyltrimethicones, optionally fluorinated polyalkylmethylsiloxanes, such as polymethyltrifluoropropyldimethylsiloxanes, or with functional groups such as hydroxyl, thiol and / or amine groups; polysiloxanes modified with fatty acids, fatty alcohols or polyoxyalkylenes, fluorosilicones and perfluorinated oils;
[0034] - their mixtures.
[0035] Non-limiting examples of fatty alcohols useful for the present invention are those that are liquid at room temperature, containing a branched and / or unsaturated carbon chain containing 12 to 26 carbon atoms, for example octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-butyloctanol and 2-undecylpentadecanol.
[0036] Non-limiting examples of fatty acids useful for the present invention are higher C12-C22 fatty acids, such as oleic acid, linoleic acid or linolenic acid. CARNAUBA WAX
[0037] Carnauba wax is a hard wax scraped from the leaves and leaf stalks of carnauba palms, Copernicia cerifera. Carnauba wax comprises C18-C32 fatty acid esters and C28-C34 alcohol esters, also containing large amounts of hydroxy acid esters and having melting points around 80 and 86 °C. SILICA AEROGEL (SILICA SILYLATE)
[0038] “Silica aerogel” according to the present invention is a porous material obtained by replacing (through drying) the liquid component of a silica gel with air. Silica aerogels are generally synthesized via a sol-gel process in a liquid medium and then dried, usually by extraction with a supercritical fluid, such as, but not limited to, supercritical carbon dioxide (CO2). This type of drying prevents pore and material shrinkage. The process sol-gel and the various drying processes are described in detail in Brinker, CJ, and Scherer, GW, Sol-Gel Science: New York: Academie Press, 1990.
[0039] The silica aerogel particles used in the present invention have a specific surface area per unit mass (SM) ranging from about 500 to about 1500 m² / g, or alternatively from about 600 to about 1200 m² / g, or alternatively from about 600 to about 800 m² / g, and a size expressed in mean volume diameter (D[0.5]), ranging from about 1 to about 30 µm, or alternatively from about 5 to about 25 µm, or alternatively from about 5 to about 20 µm, or alternatively from about 5 to about 15 µm. The specific surface area per unit mass can be determined via the BET (Brunauer-Emmett-Teller) nitrogen absorption method described in the Journal of the American Chemical Society, vol. 60, page 309, February 1938, corresponding to the international standard ISO 5794 / 1. The specific surface area BET corresponds to the total specific surface area of the particles considered.
[0040] The size of silica aerogel particles can be measured by static light scattering using a commercial particle size analyzer, such as the Malvern MasterSizer 2000. The data are processed based on Mie scattering theory. This theory, which is accurate for isotropic particles, allows the determination, in the case of non-spherical particles, of an "effective" particle diameter. This theory is described in particular in the publication by Van de Hulst, H.C., "Light Scattering by Small Particles," Chapters 9 and 10, Wiley, New York, 1957.
[0041] The silica aerogel particles used in the present invention may advantageously have a compaction density ranging from approximately 0.04 g / cm³ to approximately 0.10 g / cm³, or alternatively from approximately 0.05 g / cm³ to approximately 0.08 g / cm³. In the context of the present invention, this density, referred to as the compaction density, can be evaluated according to the following protocol: 40 g of powder are poured into a graduated cylinder; the graduated cylinder is then placed on a Stampf Volumeter Stav 2003 machine; the graduated cylinder is then subjected to a series of 2500 compaction movements (this operation is repeated until the volume difference between two consecutive tests is less than 2%); the final volume Vf of compacted powder is then measured on the graduated cylinder. The density after settling is determined by the ratio m / Vf, in this case 40 / Vf (Vf being expressed in cm3 and m in g).
[0042] According to one embodiment, the silica aerogel particles used in the present invention have a specific surface area per unit volume Sv of approximately 5 to approximately 60 m² / cm³, or alternatively of approximately 10 to approximately 50 m² / cm³, or alternatively of approximately 15 to approximately 40 m² / cm³. The specific surface area per unit volume is given by the relation: Sv = SM.r where r is the density after settlement expressed in g / cm3 and SM is the specific surface area per unit mass expressed in m2 / g, as defined above.
[0043] In certain embodiments, the silica aerogel particles according to the invention have an oil absorption capacity, measured at the wetting point, ranging from approximately 5 to approximately 18 ml / g, or alternatively from approximately 6 to approximately 15 ml / g, or alternatively from approximately 8 to approximately 12 ml / g. The oil absorption capacity measured at the wetting point, denoted Wp, corresponds to the quantity of water that must be added to 100 g of particles to obtain a homogeneous paste. Wp is measured according to the wetting point method or the method for determining the oil absorption of a powder described in standard NF T 30-022. Wp corresponds to the amount of oil adsorbed on the available surface of the powder and / or absorbed by the powder by measuring the wetting point, described below: A quantity = 2 g of powder is placed on a glass plate and the oil (isononyl isononanoate) is then added drop by drop.After adding 4 to 5 drops of oil to the powder, the mixture is stirred with a spatula, and oil is continued until a conglomerate of oil and powder forms. At this stage, the oil is added one drop at a time, and the mixture is then triturated with the spatula. The addition of oil is stopped when a firm, smooth paste is obtained. This paste should be able to be spread on the glass plate without cracking or forming lumps. The volume Vs (expressed in ml) of oil used is then recorded. The oil absorption corresponds to the ratio Vs / m.
[0044] The aerogels used according to the present invention are hydrophobic silica aerogels, preferably silylated silica (INCI name: silica silylate). The term "hydrophobic silica" refers to any silica whose surface is treated with silylation agents, for example, halogenated silanes, such as alkylchlorosilanes, siloxanes, in particular dimethylsiloxanes, such as hexamethyldisiloxane, or silazanes, so as to functionalize the OH groups with Si-Rn silyl groups, for example, trimethylsilyl groups. The preparation of hydrophobic silica aerogel particles that have been surface-modified by silylation is described in US Patent No. 7,470,725. In one embodiment, hydrophobic silica aerogel particles surface-modified with trimethylsilyl groups are desirable.
[0045] Suitable examples of hydrophobic silica aerogels may include, but are not limited to, aerogels sold under the trade names VM-2260 (INCI name: Silica silylate) and VM-2270 (INCI name: Silica silylate), both available from Dow Corning Corporation (Midland, Michigan). VM-2260 particles have an average size of approximately 1000 microns and a specific surface area per unit mass ranging from 600 to 800 m² / g. VM-2270 particles have an average size ranging from 5 to 15 microns and a specific surface area per unit mass ranging from 600 to 800 m2 / g. Another suitable example of hydrophobic silica aerogel may include, but is not limited to, the commercially available aerogels from Cabot Corporation (Billerica, Massachusetts) under the trade names Aerogel TLD 201, Aerogel OGD 201 and Aerogel TLD 203, Enova Aerogel MT 1100 and Enova Aerogel MT 1200.
[0046] The silica aerogel is preferably a hydrophobic silica aerogel, more preferably silica silylate. PERLITE PARTICLES
[0047] Perlite is a natural glass of volcanic origin, of glossy black or light grey color, resulting from the rapid cooling of lava, and which appears in the form of small particles resembling pearls.
[0048] The perlites that can be used according to the invention are generally aluminosilicates of volcanic origin and have the following composition:
[0049] 70.0 to 75.0 wt% of silica SiO2
[0050] 12.0 to 15.0 wt% of aluminium oxide Al2O3
[0051] 3.0 to 5.0% sodium oxide Na2O
[0052] 3.0 to 5.0% potassium oxide K2O
[0053] 0.5 to 2% iron oxide Fe2O3
[0054] 0.2 to 0.7% magnesium oxide MgO
[0055] 0.5 to 1.5% calcium oxide CaO
[0056] 0.05 to 0.15% titanium dioxide TIO2.
[0057] Preferably, the perlite particles used according to the invention will be in an expanded porous form.
[0058] Perlite is initially crushed, dried, and then calibrated. The resulting product, called perlite ore, is gray in color and has a particle size of approximately 100 µm. The perlite ore is then expanded (1000 °C / 2 seconds) to produce particles that are more or less white. When the temperature reaches 850–900 °C, the water trapped within the material's structure evaporates, causing the material to expand relative to its original volume. The expanded perlite particles according to the invention can be obtained via the expansion process described in US patent 5,002,698.
[0059] Preferably, the perlite particles used will be ground; in this case, they are known as expanded ground perlite (EMP).4
[0060] They preferably have a particle size defined by a median diameter D50 ranging from 0.5 to 50 pm and preferably from 0.5 to 40 pm.
[0061] Preferably, the perlite particles according to the invention have a particle size distribution such that at least 50% of the particles are smaller than 20 µm. Furthermore, they preferably have a particle size distribution such that 90% by weight of the particles are smaller than 55 µm, and preferably smaller than 40 µm. It is also preferable that 90% by weight of the particles be larger than 5 µm.
[0062] Preferably, the perlite particles used have an apparent density at 25 °C ranging from 10 to 400 kg / m3 (DIN 53468 standard) and preferably from 10 to 300 kg / m3.
[0063] In particular, expanded perlite particles sold under the trade names Optimat 1430 OR® and Optimat 2550® by World Minerals, or the trade products GK-110 Thin® and GK-110 Extra Thin® by Langfang Xindazhong Filter and Henan Zhongnan Filter Aid will be used. SURFACTANTS
[0064] The cosmetic sunscreen composition of the present invention may comprise one or more suitable surfactants.
[0065] Non-limiting examples of surfactants suitable for the present invention are as follows.
[0066] Useful anionic surfactants in the invention include, for example, carboxylates (sodium 2-(2-hydroxyalkyloxy)acetate), amino acid derivatives (N-acylglutamates, N-acylglycinates or acylsarcosinates), alkyl sulfates, alkyl ethersulfates and their oxyethylenated derivatives, sulfonates, isethionates and N-acylisethionates, taurates and N-acyl N-methyltaurates, sulfosuccinates, alkyl sulfoacetates, phosphates and alkyl phosphates, anionic derivatives of alkyl polyglycoside (acyl-D-galactoside uronate), and combinations thereof.
[0067] Non-limiting examples of useful nonionic surfactants in the invention include, for example, oxyalkylated (more particularly polyoxyethylated) fatty acid esters of glycerol; inulin laurylcarbamate; oxyalkylated fatty acid esters of sorbitan; oxyalkylated fatty acid esters (oxyethylated and / or oxypropylated); polyglyceryl-6 distearate (and) jojoba esters (and) cetyl alcohol (and) polyglyceryl-3 beeswax; oxyalkylated fatty alcohol ethers (oxyethylated and / or oxypropylated); sugar esters, for example sucrose stearate; Fatty alcohol ethers of sugars, in particular alkyl polyglucosides (APGs) such as decyl glucoside and lauryl glucoside, cetostearyl glucoside optionally in mixture with cetostearyl alcohol, and also arachidyl glucoside, for example in the form of a mixture of arachidyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, and arachidyl glucoside. According to a method of In a particular embodiment of the invention, the mixture of the alkylpolyglucoside as defined above with the corresponding fatty alcohol can be in the form of a self-emulsifying composition. Other examples include lecithins and their derivatives (e.g., Biophilic), sugar esters, and sodium stearoyl lactylate.
[0068] Non-limiting examples of fatty acids are chosen from among the higher fatty acids in Ci2-C22, such as myristic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, lauric acid, palmitic acid, and their combinations.
[0069] Non-limiting examples of cationic surfactants are those that can be positively charged. This surfactant may carry one or more permanent positive charges or may contain one or more functional groups that are cationizable in the composition as disclosed. The cationic surfactant(s) may also be selected from optionally polyoxyalkylated primary, secondary, or tertiary fatty amines, or their salts, and quaternary ammonium salts, and combinations thereof. Fatty amines generally comprise at least one C8-C30 hydrocarbon chain.
[0070] Preferred surfactants may be chosen from stearic acid, glyceryl stearate (and) PEG-100 stearate, potassium cetyl phosphate and their combinations. UV FILTER SYSTEM
[0071] The cosmetic composition of the present invention includes a UV filter system comprising at least one UV filter selected from ethylhexyltriazone, hexyl diethylaminohydroxybenzoylbenzoate, isotridecyl phosphate, bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyltriazine, butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, drometrizole trisiloxane, ethylhexyl salicylate, ethylhexyltriazone, homosalate, methylene bis-benzotriazolyltetramethylbutylphenol, octocrylene, phenylbenzozimidazolesulfonic acid, polyglyceryl-10 laurate, terephthalylidene diamphrul sulfonic acid, trisodium ethylenediaminedisuccinate, and combinations thereof. ADDITIONAL UV FILTERS
[0072] The composition according to the present invention may include at least one additional UV filter. There is no limit as to the type of UV filter. Two or more types of UV filters may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of UV filter or a combination of different types of UV filters may be used.
[0073] In a preferred embodiment, at least one additional UV filter is selected from homosalate, phenylbenzhnidazolesulfonic acid, drometrizoletrisiloxane, methylene bis-benzotriazolyltetramethylbutylphenol, terephthalylidene diamphrulfonic acid, and titanium dioxide (and) hydroxide of aluminium (and) stearic acid, ethoxyethyl methoxypropylaminocyclohexenylidene cyanoacetate.
[0074] The additional UV filter can be selected from inorganic UV filters, organic UV filters, and mixtures thereof. The composition according to the present invention may comprise the additional UV filter(s) in an amount from 0.1 to 50% by weight, and in some embodiments from 1 to 40% by weight, and in some embodiments from 2 to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Additional inorganic UV filters
[0075] The composition according to the present invention may optionally include at least one additional UV filter selected from inorganic UV filters. If two or more inorganic UV filters are used, they may be identical or different.
[0076] The inorganic UV filter used for the present invention may be active in the UV-A and / or UV-B region. The inorganic UV filter may be hydrophilic and / or lipophilic. In certain embodiments, the inorganic UV filter is insoluble in solvents, such as water and ethanol, commonly used in cosmetics.
[0077] In some embodiments, it is desirable that the inorganic UV filter be in the form of a fine particle whose average (primary) particle diameter is from 1 nm to 50 nm, and in some embodiments from 5 nm to 40 nm, and in some embodiments from 10 nm to 30 nm. The average (primary) particle size or the average (primary) particle diameter is here an arithmetic mean diameter.
[0078] The inorganic UV filter can be selected from the group consisting of silicon carbide, metal oxides, which may or may not be coated, and mixtures thereof. In some embodiments, the inorganic UV filters are selected from pigments (average size of primary particles: generally from 5 nm to 50 nm, and in some embodiments from 10 nm to 50 nm) formed from metal oxides such as, for example, pigments formed from titanium dioxide (amorphous or crystalline in the form of rutile and / or anatase), iron oxide, zinc oxide, zirconium oxide, or cerium oxide, all of which are well-known UV-blocking photoprotective agents. In some embodiments, the inorganic UV filters are selected from titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, and, in some embodiments, titanium dioxide.
[0079] The inorganic UV filter may be coated or uncoated. The inorganic UV filter may have at least one coating. The coating may comprise at least one compound selected from the group consisting of alumina, silica, aluminum hydroxide, silicones, silanes, fatty acids or their salts (such as sodium, potassium, zinc, iron, or aluminum salts), fatty alcohols, lecithin, amino acids, polysaccharides, proteins, alkanolamines, waxes such as wax beekeeping agents, (meth)acrylic polymers, organic UV filters, and (per)fluorinated compounds. In some embodiments, it is preferable for the coating to include at least one organic UV filter. As an organic UV filter in the coating, a dibenzoylmethane derivative, such as butylmethoxydibenzoylmethane (Avobenzone) and 2,2'-methylenebis[6-(2H-benzotriazol-2-yl)-4-(l,l,3,3-tetramethyl-butyl)phenol] (methylene bis-benzotriazolyltetramethylbutylphenol) marketed under the name "TINOSORB M" by BASF, may be preferable.
[0080] In a known manner, the silicones in the coating or coatings can be organosilicon polymers or oligomers comprising a linear or cyclic and branched or crosslinked structure, of variable molecular weight, obtained by the polymerization and / or polycondensation of suitable functional silanes and essentially composed of repeated main motifs in which the silicon atoms are linked to each other by oxygen atoms (siloxane bond), optionally substituted hydrocarbon radicals being directly linked to said silicon atoms by a carbon atom.
[0081] The term “silicones” also includes the silanes necessary for their preparation, in particular alkylsilanes.
[0082] The silicones used for the coating(s) may be, and in some embodiments are, selected from the group consisting of alkylsilanes, polydialkylsiloxanes, and polyalkylhydrosiloxanes. And in some embodiments, the silicones are selected from the group consisting of octyltrimethylsilanes, polydimethylsiloxanes, and polymethylhydrosiloxanes.
[0083] Of course, inorganic UV filters made of metal oxides may, before their treatment with silicones, have been treated with other coating agents, in particular with cerium oxide, alumina, silica, aluminum compounds, silicon compounds, or mixtures thereof. The coated inorganic UV filter may have been prepared by subjecting the inorganic UV filter to one or more surface treatments of a chemical, electronic, mechanochemical and / or mechanical nature with any of the compounds described above, as well as polyethylenes, metal alkoxides (titanium or aluminum alkoxides), metal oxides, sodium hexametaphosphate, and those presented, for example, in Cosmetics & Toiletries, February 1990, Vol. 105, pp. 53-64.
[0084] Coated inorganic UV filters can be coated with titanium oxides: with silica, such as Ikeda's "Sun Veil" and Sunjin Chemical's "Sunsil TIN 50"; with silica and iron oxide, such as Ikeda's "Sunveil F"; with silica and alumina, such as Tayca's "Microtitanium Dioxide MT 500 SA," Tioxide's "Tioveil," and Rhodia's "Mirasun TiW 60"; with alumina, such as the "Tipaque TTO-55" products. (B) and "Tipaque TTO-55 (A)" from Ishihara, and "UVT 14 / 4" from Kemira; with alumina and with aluminum stearate, such as the product "Microtitanium Dioxide MT 100 T, MT 100 TX, MT 100 Z or MT-01" from Tayca, the products "Solaveil CT-10 W" and "Solaveil CT 100" from Uniqema, and the product "Eusolex T-AVO" from Merck; with alumina and with aluminum laurate, such as the product "Microtitanium Dioxide MT 100 S" from Tayca; with iron oxide and iron stearate, such as the product "Microtitanium Dioxide MT 100 F" from Tayca; with zinc oxide and zinc stearate, such as Tayca's "BR351" product; with silica and alumina and treated with silicone, such as Tayca's "Microtitanium Dioxide MT 600 SAS", "Microtitanium Dioxide MT 500 SAS" and "Microtitanium Dioxide MT 100 SAS" products; with silica, alumina and aluminum stearate and treated with silicone, such as Titan Kogyo's "STT-30-DS" product;with silica and treated with silicone, such as Kemira's "UV-Titan X 195" product; with alumina and treated with silicone, such as Ishihara's "Tipaque TTO-55 (S)" or Kemira's "UV Titan M 262" products; with triethanolamine, such as Titan Kogyo's "STT-65-S" product; with stearic acid, such as Ishihara's "Tipaque TTO-55 (C)" product; or with sodium hexametaphosphate, such as Tayca's "Micro titanium Dioxide MT 150 W" product.Other titanium oxide pigments treated with silicone are, in some embodiments, TiO2 treated with octyltrimethylsilane and for which the average size of individual particles is 25 and 40 nm, such as that marketed under the brand name "T 805" by Degussa Silices, TiO2 treated with a polydimethylsiloxane and for which the average size of individual particles is 21 nm, such as that marketed under the brand name "70250 Cardre UF TiO2Si 3" by Cardre, and TiO2 anatase / rutile treated with a polydimethylhydrosiloxane and for which the average size of individual particles is 25 nm, such as that marketed under the brand name "Microtitanium Dioxide USP carbonate Hydrophobie" by Color Techniques.
[0085] And in certain embodiments, the following coated TiO2s can be used as coated inorganic UV filters: Stearic acid (and) Aluminium hydroxide (and) TiO2, such as Tayca's "MT-100 TV" product, with a primary particle average diameter of 15 nm; Dimethicone (and) Stearic acid (and) Aluminium hydroxide (and) TiO2, such as Miyoshi Kasei's "S A-TTO-S4" product, with a primary particle average diameter of 15 nm; Silica (and) TiO2, such as Tayca's "MT-100 WP" product, with a primary particle average diameter of 15 nm; Dimethicone (and) Silica (and) Aluminum Hydroxide (and) TiO2, such as Tayca's "MT-Y02" and "MT-Y-110 M3S" products, with an average particle diameter primary particle diameters of 10 nm; Dimethicone (and) Aluminum Hydroxide (and) TiO2, such as Miyoshi Kasei's "SA-TTO-S3", with a primary particle diameter of 15 nm; Dimethicone (and) Alumina (and) TiO2, such as Sachtleben's "UV TITAN Ml 70", with a primary particle diameter of 15 nm; and Silica (and) Aluminum Hydroxide (and) Alginic Acid (and) TiO2, such as Tayca's "MT-100 AQ", with a primary particle diameter of 15 nm. In terms of UV filtering capacity, TiO2 coated with at least one organic UV filter is preferable. For example, Avobenzone (and) Stearic acid (and) Aluminium hydroxide (and) TiO2 such as the product "HXMT-100ZA" from Tayca, with a mean primary particle diameter of 15 nm, can be used.
[0086] Uncoated titanium dioxide pigments are, for example, marketed by Tayca under the brand names "Microtitanium Dioxide MT500B" or "Microtitanium Dioxide MT600B", by Degussa under the brand name "P 25", by Wacker under the brand name "Transparent Titanium Oxide PW", by Miyoshi Kasei under the brand name "UFTR", by Tomen under the brand name "ITS", and by Tioxide under the brand name "Tioveil AQ". Uncoated zinc oxide pigments are, for example: those marketed under the brand name "Z-cote" by Sunsmart; those marketed under the brand name "Nanox" by Elementis; and those marketed under the brand name "Nanogard WCD 2025" by Nanophase Technologies. Examples of coated zinc oxide pigments include those marketed under the brand name "Zinc Oxide CS-5" by Toshiba (ZnO coated with polymethylhydrosiloxane);those marketed under the brand name "Nanogard Zinc Oxide FN" by Nanophase Technologies (in the form of a 40% dispersion in Finsolv TN, a Ci2-Ci5 alkyl benzoate); those marketed under the brand name "Daitopersion Zn-30" and "Daitopersion Zn-50" by Daito (dispersions in oxyethylenated polydimethylsiloxane / cyclopopolymethylsiloxane comprising 30% or 50% of zinc nanooxides coated with silica and polymethylhydrosiloxane); those marketed under the brand name "NFD Ultrafine ZnO" by Daikin (ZnO coated with perfluoroalkyl phosphate and a perfluoroalkylethyl copolymer in dispersion in cyclopentasiloxane); those marketed under the brand name "SPD-Z1" by Shin-Etsu (ZnO coated with an acrylic polymer grafted with a silicone dispersed in cyclodimethylsiloxane); those marketed under the brand name "Escalol Z100" by ISP (ZnO treated with alumina dispersed in a mixture of ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate / PVP-hexadecene copolymer / methicone;Those marketed under the brand name "Fuji ZnO-SMS-10" by Fuji Pigment (ZnO coated with silica and polymethylsilsesquioxane); and those marketed under the brand name "Nanox Gel TN" by Elementis (ZnO dispersed at 55% in a Ci2-Ci5 alkyl benzoate with hydroxystearic acid polycondensate). Cerium oxide pigments; uncoated ones are marketed, for example, under the brand name "Colloidal Cerium Oxide" by Rhone-Poulenc.
[0087] Uncoated iron oxide pigments are, for example, marketed by Arnaud under the brands "Nanogard WCD 2002 (FE 45B)", "Nanogard Iron FE 45 BL AQ", "Nanogard FE 45R AQ" and "Nanogard WCD 2006 (FE 45R)", or by Mitsubishi under the brand "TY-220".
[0088] Coated iron oxide pigments are, for example, marketed by Arnaud under the brands "Nanogard WCD 2008 (FE 45B FN)", "Nanogard WCD 2009 (FE 45B 556)", "Nanogard FE 45 BL 345" and "Nanogard FE 45 BL" or by BASF under the brand "Transparent iron oxide".
[0089] Other examples include mixtures of metal oxides, in particular titanium dioxide and cerium dioxide, including an equal weight mixture of silica-coated titanium dioxide and silica-coated cerium dioxide marketed by Ikeda under the brand name "Sunveil A", and a mixture of titanium dioxide and zinc dioxide coated with alumina, silica and silicone, such as the product "M 261" marketed by Kemira, or coated with alumina, silica and glycerol, such as the product "M 211" marketed by Kemira.
[0090] Coated inorganic UV filters are preferable because the UV filtering effects of inorganic UV filters can be enhanced. Furthermore, the coating(s) can contribute to the uniform or homogeneous dispersion of the UV filters in the composition according to the present invention. Additional organic UV filters
[0091] The composition according to the present invention may optionally include at least one additional UV filter selected from among the organic UV filters. If two or more organic UV filters are used, they may be identical or different.
[0092] The organic UV filter used for the present invention can be active in the UV-A and / or UV-B region. The organic UV filter can be hydrophilic and / or lipophilic.
[0093] The organic UV filter can be solid or liquid. The terms "solid" and "liquid" mean solid and liquid, respectively, at 25 °C under 1 atm.
[0094] The organic UV filter can be selected from the group consisting of anthranilic compounds; dibenzoylmethane compounds; cinnamic compounds; salicylic compounds; camphor compounds; benzophenone compounds; [3,[3-diphenylacrylate] compounds; triazine compounds; benzotriazole compounds; benzalmalonate compounds; benzimidazole compounds; imidazoline compounds; bis-benzoazolyl compounds; p-aminobenzoic acid (PABA) compounds; methylenebis(hydroxyphenylb-nzotriazole) compounds; benzoxazole compounds; screening polymers and screening silicones; α-alkylstyrene derivative dimers; 4,4-diarylbutadiene compounds; Guaiazulene and its derivatives; rutin and its derivatives; flavonoids; bioflavonoids; oryzanol and its derivatives; quinic acid and its derivatives; phenols; retinol; cysteine; aromatic amino acids; peptides having an aromatic amino acid residue; and mixtures thereof.
[0095] Examples of organic UV filter(s) include those listed below under their INCI names and mixtures. Anthranilic compounds: Menthyl anthranilate, marketed under the brand name "Neo Heliopan MA" by Haarmann and Reimer. Dibenzoylmethane compounds: Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, marketed in particular under the brand name "Parsol 1789" by Hoffmann-La Roche; and isopropyl dibenzoylmethane. Cinnamic compounds: Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, marketed in particular under the brand name "Parsol MCX" by Hoffmann-La Roche; isopropyl methoxycinnamate; isopropoxy methoxycinnamate; isoamyl methoxycinnamate, marketed under the brand name "Neo Heliopan E 1000" by Haarmann and Reimer; cinoxate (2-ethoxyethyl-4-methoxycinnamate); DEA methoxycinnamate; diisopropyl methylcinnamate; and glyceryl ethylhexanoate dimethoxycinnamate.Salicylic compounds: Homosalate (homomenthyl salicylate), marketed under the brand name "Eusolex HMS" by Rona / EM Industries; ethylhexyl salicylate, marketed under the brand name "Neo Heliopan OS" by Haarmann and Reimer; glycol salicylate; butyloctyl salicylate; phenyl salicylate; dipropylene glycol salicylate, marketed under the brand name "Dipsal" by Scher; and TEA salicylate, marketed under the brand name "Neo Heliopan TS" by Haarmann and Reimer.Camphor compounds, in particular benzylidenecamphor derivatives: 3-benzylidene camphor, manufactured under the brand name "Mexoryl SD" by Chimex; 4-methylbenzylidene camphor, marketed under the brand name "Eusolex 6300" by Merck; benzylidene camphor sulfonic acid, manufactured under the brand name "Mexoryl SL" by Chimex; camphor benzalkonium methosulfate, manufactured under the brand name "Mexoryl SO" by Chimex; terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid, manufactured under the brand name "Mexoryl SX" by Chimex; and polyacrylamidomethyl benzylidene camphor, manufactured under the brand name "Mexoryl SW" by Chimex.Benzophenone compounds: Benzophenone-1 (2,4-dihydroxybenzophenone), marketed under the brand name "Uvinul 400" by BASF; benzophenone-2 (tetrahydroxybenzophenone), marketed under the brand name "Uvinul D50" by BASF; Benzophenone-3 (2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone) or oxybenzone, marketed under the brand name "Uvinul M40" by BASF; benzophenone-4 (hydroxymethoxybenzophenonesulfonic acid), marketed under the brand name "Uvinul MS40" by BASF; benzophenone-5 (sodium hydroxymethoxybenzophenone sulfonate); benzophenone-6 (dihydroxydimethoxybenzophenone); marketed under the brand name "Helisorb 11" by Norquay; benzophenone-8, marketed. under the brand name "Spectra-Sorb UV-24" by American Cyanamid; benzophenone-9 (disodium dihydroxydimethoxybenzophenonedisulfonate), marketed under the brand name "UVINUL DS-49" by BASF; and benzophenone-12, and n-hexyl 2-(4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl)benzoate (UVINUL A+ by BASF). The compounds of [3,[3-diphenylacrylate]Octocrylene, marketed notably under the brand name "Uvinul N539" by BASF; and Etocrylene, marketed notably under the brand name "Uvinul N35" by BASF. Triazine compounds: Diethylhexyl butamido triazone, marketed under the brand name "Uvasorb HEB" by Sigma 3V; 2,4,6-tris(dineopentyl 4'-aminobenzalmalonate)-s-triazine. Benzotriazole compounds, especially phenylbenzotriazole derivatives: 2-(2H-benzotriazole-2-yl)-6-dodecyl-4-methylpheno, branched and linear, and those described in USP 5240975.Benzalmalonate compounds: Dineopentyl 4'-methoxybenzalmalonate, and polyorganosiloxanes containing benzalmalonate functional groups, such as polysilicone-15, marketed under the brand name "Parsol SLX" by Hoffmann-LaRoche. Benzimidazole compounds, particularly phenylbenzimidazole derivatives: Phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid, marketed notably under the brand name "Eusolex 232" by Merck, and disodium phenyl dibenzimidazole tetrasulfonate, marketed under the brand name "Neo Heliopan AP" by Haarmann and Reimer. Imidazoline compounds: Ethylhexyl dimethoxybenzylidene dioxoimidazoline propionate. Bis-benzoazolyl compounds: Derivatives as described in EP-669,323 and US Patent No. 2,463,264.Para-aminobenzoic acid compounds: PABA (p-aminobenzoic acid), ethyl PABA, ethyl dihydroxypropyl PABA, pentyl dimethyl PABA, ethylhexyl dimethyl PABA, marketed in particular under the brand name "Escalol 507" by ISP, glyceryl PABA and PEG-25 PABA, marketed under the brand name "Uvinul P25" by BASF. -methylene bis-(hydroxyphenylbenzotriazole) compounds, such as 2,2'-methylenebis[6-(2H-benzotriazol-2-yl)-4-methylphenol] marketed in solid form under the brand name "Mixxim BB / 200" by Fairmount Chemical, 2,2'-methylenebis[6-(2H-benzotriazol-2-yl)-4-(1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl)phenol] marketed in micronized aqueous dispersion under the brand name "Tinosorb M" by BASF, or under the brand name "Mixxim BB / 100" by Fairmount Chemical, and derivatives as described in US patentsNos. 5,237,071 and 5,166,355, GB-2,303,549, DE-197,26184 and EP-893,119, and Drometrizole trisiloxane, marketed under the brand name "Silatrizole" by Rhodia Chimie or "Mexoryl XL" by L'Oréal. Benzoxazole compounds: 2,4-bis[5-l(dimethylpropyl)benzoxazol-2-yl-(4-phenyl)imino]-6-(2-ethylhexyl)imino-l,3,5-triazine, marketed under the brand name Uvasorb K2A by Sigma 3V. Shielding polymers and shielding silicones: the silicones described in WO 93 / 04665. α-Alkylstyrene-derived dimers: The dimers. described in DE-19855649. 4,4-diarylbutadiene compounds: l,l-dicarboxy(2,2'-dimethylpropyl)-4,4-diphenylbutadiene.
[0096] Dans certains modes de réalisation, Il est souhaitable que le(s) filtre(s) UV organique(s) soi(en)t choisi(s) dans le groupe consistant en : butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, homosalate, ethylhexyl salicylate, octocrylene, phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid, benzophenone-3, benzophenone-4, benzophenone-5, n-hexyl 2-(4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl)be nzoate, 1 ,r-( 1,4-piperazinediyl)bis [1- [2- [4-(diethylamino)-2-hydroxybenzoyl]ph enyl]-methanone, 4-methylbenzylidene camphor, terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid, disodium phenyl dibenzimidazole tetrasulfonate, ethylhexyl triazone, diethylhexyl butamido triazone, 2,4,6-tris(dineopentyl 4'-aminobenzalmalonate)-s-triazine, 2,4,6-tris(diisobutyl 4'-aminobenzalmalonate)-s-triazine, 2,4-bis-(n-butyl 4'-aminobenzalmalonate)-6-[(3-{ 1 ,3 ,3 ,3 -tetramethyl-l-[(trimethylsilylo xy]-disiloxanyl}propyl)amino]-s-triazine, 2,4,6-tris-(di-phenyl)-triazine, 2,4,6-tris-(ter-phenyl)-triazine,methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol, drometrizole trisiloxane, polysilicone-15, dineopentyl 4'-methoxybenzalmalo nate, l,l-dicarboxy(2,2'-dimethylpropyl)-4,4-diphenylbutadiene, 2,4-bis[5-l (dimethylpropyl)benzoxazol-2-yl-(4-phenyl)imino]-6-(2-ethylhexyl)imino-1,3,5-triazine, camphor benzylkonium methosulfate, and mixtures thereof. , ADDITIONAL INGREDIENTS
[0097] In addition to the essential components described above, the composition of the invention may further include any conventional cosmetically acceptable ingredient, which may be selected in particular from a perfume / fragrance, preservatives, antioxidants, solvents, active ingredients, vitamins, fillers, silicones, polymers, and mixtures thereof.
[0098] A person skilled in the art shall ensure that the optional additional ingredients and / or their quantity are selected so that the advantageous properties of the composition according to the invention are not, or substantially not, compromised by the envisaged addition.
[0099] The additional ingredients may represent from 0.1 to 20%, such as 0.1 to 10.0% or such as 0.1 to 8.0% by weight, of the total weight of the composition of the invention. EXAMPLES
[0100] By way of non-limiting illustration, the invention will now be described with reference to the following examples. Example A
[0101] A suitable composition according to the present invention is such as the following example 1:
[0102] [Table 1]
[0103] Table 1 - Composition according to the present invention: FUNCTION INGREDIENT Ex. 1 of the invention (% by weight) FAT COMPOUND ISOPROPYL MYRISTATE 15.0 to 20.0% DIISOPROPYL SEBACATE DICAPRYLYL CARBONATE DICAPRYLATE / PROPYLENE GLYCOL COPERNICIA CERIFERA WAX SURFACTANT STEARIC ACID 2.5 to 4.0% GLYCERYL STEARATE (AND) PEG-100 STEARATE POTASSIUM CETYLPHOSPHATE FRAGRANCE 0.0 to 0.8% SOLVENT ALCOHOL 5% - 12% GLYCERIN ACRYLATES POLYMER / C10-30 ALKYL CROSS-CUT POLYMER 0.1% to 0.4% XANTHAN GUM ACTIVE COMPOUND TRIETHANOL AMINE 0.8% to 1.5% ETHYLENE DIAMINE TRISODIUM DISUCCINATE HYDROXYACETOPHENONE CITRIC ACID 0.05 to 0.1% PRESERVATIVE CHLORPHENESIN 0.2 to 0.3% UV FILTER BUTYL METHOXYDIBENZOYLMETHANOL E 12.0 to 16.0% ETHYLHEXYL TRIAZONE BIS-ETHYLHEXYLOXYPHENOL METHOXYPHENYL TRIAZINE Diethylaminohydroxybenzoyl B hexyl enzoate, silica filler 2.0 to 3.5%, silica silylate, perlite solvent, water q.s. Example B
[0104] A suitable composition of the prior art is such as the following example 2:
[0105] [Table 2]
[0106] Table 2 - Composition according to the prior art: FUNCTION INGREDIENT EX.2 (% by weight) ACTIVE COMPOUND ACTIVE COMPOUND TRIETHANOL AMINE 0.8 to 1.5% ETHYLENEDIAMINE DISUCCINATE T RISODIUM FAT COMPOUND FAT COMPOUND FAT COMPOUND FAT COMPOUND ISOPROPYL PALMITATE 6.0 to 12.0% SHEA BUTTER ORYZA SATIVA WAX DIISOPROPYL SEBACATE FRAGRANCE PARFUM 0.3 to 0.6% POLYMER CORN STARCH 1.0 to 2.0% XANTHAN GUM ACRYLATES / C10-30 ALKYL CROSS-CUT POLYMER SOLVENT WATER QS SOLVENT ALCOHOL DENAT. 5.0 to 12.0% GLYCERIN PENTYLENE GLYCOL CAPRYLYLGLYCOL SUN FILTER BUTYL METHOXYDIBENZOYLMETHANE 12.0 to 18.0% ETHYLHEXYL SALICYLATE, ETHYLHEXYL TRIAZONE, BIS-ETHYLHEXYLOXYPHENOL, MET. ETHYLHEXYL TRIAZINE, SURFACTANT, STEARIC ACID 2.0 to 4.5%, GLYCERYL STEARATE (and) PEG-100 STEARATE, POTASSIUM CETYLPHOSPHATE, VITAMIN, TOCOPHEROL 0.10 to 0.3% Example C Stability test
[0107] A test was carried out with the compositions of the invention of example 3 and example 4 to evaluate the stability of the present invention.
[0108] [Table 3]
[0109] Table 3 - Compositions 3 and 4 of the invention used in the stability test FUNCTION INGREDIENT Ex. 3 of the invention (% by weight) Ex. 4 of the invention (% by weight) ACTIVE COMPOUND TRIETHANOL AMINE 0.7 to 1.5% 0.7 to 1.5% ETHYLENE DIAMINE TRISODIUM SUCCINATATE HYDROXYACETOPHENONE FAT COMPOUND ISOPROPYL MYRISTATE 14.0 to 20.0% 14.0 to 20.0% PROPYLENE DICAPRYLATE / DICAPRATE GLYCOL DIISOPROPYL SEBACATE DICAPRYLYL CARBONATE COPERNICIA CERIFERA WAX - 1.00% FILLER SILICA 1.8 to 3.5% 1.8 to 3.5% SILICA SILYLATE PERLITE XANTHAN GUM POLYMER 0.2 to 0.5% 0.2 to 0.5% ACRYLATES / C10-30 ALKYL CROSS-CUT POLYMER WATER SOLVENT QSQS ALCOHOL SOLVENT 5.0 to 12.0% 5.0 to 12.0% GLYCERIN BUTYL METHOXYDIBENZOYLM ETHANE 12.0 to 18.0% 12.0 to 18.0% ETHYLHEXYL TRIAZONE BIS-ETHYLHEXYLOXYPHENOL METHOXYPHENYL TRIAZINE SURFACTANT STEARIC ACID 2.8 to 4.0% 2.8 to 4.0% GLYCERYL STEARATE (and) PEG-100 STEARATE POTASSI UM CETYLPHOSPHATE
[0110] In this sense, the composition of example 4 was placed under high stirring at 3000 rpm and at a temperature of 45 °C for 30 minutes.
[0111] It was concluded that the composition of Example 4, according to the present invention, exhibited greatly improved stability and remained homogeneous. Example D Consumer trial
[0112] In order to evaluate the benefits of the present invention for the consumer (example 1 of the invention), a trial was carried out with volunteers.
[0113] The objective was to understand if the new formula could be competitive in the market and recruit new consumers. Consumer tensions and commercial challenge: Validate product performance to recruit new consumers: Understand the performance and competitiveness of the base compared to the reference.
[0114] [Tables4] Formula of the invention Comparative formula (prior art) Isopropyl myristate Dimethicone Diisopropyl sebacate Octocrylene Dicaprylyl carbonate, ethylhexyl salicylate, propylene glycol dicaprylate / dicaprate, dicaprylate / dicaprate
[0115] With these modifications, the present invention presents an improved environmental formula (sustainable ingredients), and a formula without the use of silicone and controversial ingredients, such as homosalate and ethylhexyl salicylate. Consequently, superior performance has been achieved.
[0116] Conclusion
[0117] - The formulas of the present invention have obtained excellent results and are competitive;
[0118] - The formulas of the present invention have offered a better application, a Control of oily and dry texture, improved makeup compatibility, and long-lasting performance with better care, protection, and resistance than the comparative state-of-the-art formula. Example E SPF Test
[0119] The objective of this test was to evaluate the SPF obtained by the composition of the invention by means of a process which follows ISO 24444 Sun protection test methods - In vivo determination of the sun protection factor (SPF) 2019.
[0120] The composition of Example 5 (below) was applied to the dry skin of the subject and irradiated with a series of ultraviolet doses with an incremental progression of 12%. The sites were evaluated after a period of 16 to 24 hours.
[0121] The experimental product and the standard were applied to a surface of 30 cm2 at a rate of 2.0 mg / cm2 and distributed uniformly without excessive pressure and without a finger cot.
[0122] The minimum erythemal dose (MED) is defined as the lowest dose of erythemal-efficacy ultraviolet radiation that produces the first unequivocal erythema with defined borders filling more than 50% of the exposure subsite, 16 to 24 hours after UV exposure.
[0123] The study can be considered valid if the mean FPS of the control was within the expected range and if the c value was not greater than 17% of the mean FPS for the composition of example 5.
[0124] The application site was the dorsal intrascapular area and 10 study subjects participated, the inclusion criteria being healthy male or female subjects aged 18 to 65 years with intact skin on the test site.
[0125] In conclusion, the inventors were surprised to note that the composition of Example 5 achieved the objective of the study, considering 10 volunteers, and can claim an SPF60.
[0126] [Tables5] FUNCTION INGREDIENT Ex. 5 of the invention (% by weight) FAT COMPOUND ISOPROPYL MYRISTATE 15.0 to 20.0% DIISOPROPYL SEBACATE DICAPRYLYL CARBONATE DICAPRYLATE / PROPYLE DICAPRATE GLYCOL COPERNICIA CERIFERA WAX SURFACTANT STEARIC ACID 2.5 to 4.0% GLYCERYL STEARATE (AND) PEG-100 STEARATE POTASSIUM CETYLPHOSPHATE FRAGRANCE 0.0 to 0.8% SOLVENT ALCOHOL 5% - 12% GLYCERIN ACRYLATES POLYMER / C10-30 ALKYL CROSS-CUT POLYMER 0.1% to 0.4% XANTHAN GUM ACTIVE COMPOUND TRIETHANOL AMINE 0.8% to 1.5% ETHYLENE DIAMINE DISUCCINATE TRISODIC HYDROXYACETOPHENONE PRESERVATIVE CHLORPHENESIN 0.2% to 0.3% UV FILTER BUTYL METHOXYDIBENZOYL METHANE 12.0% to 16.0% ETHYLHEXYL TRIAZONE BIS-ETHYLHEXYLOXYPHENOL METHOXYPHENYL TRIAZINE DIETHYLAMINO HYDROXYBENZOYL HEXYL BENZOATE SILICA CHARGE 2.0 to 3.5% SILICA SILYLATE PERLITE SOLVENT WATER QS Example F
[0127] Manufacturing process of the cosmetic composition
[0128] The cosmetic composition of the present invention can be prepared by any conventional process for manufacturing a composition in emulsion form.
[0129] In particular, the cosmetic composition of the present invention can be prepared by a process comprising the following steps:
[0130] (A): the oily phase comprising the oily raw materials, including (a) the (c) Copemicia cerifera (carnauba) wax and a UV filter system, is mixed and heated to 75°C;
[0131] (B): the aqueous phase comprising the aqueous raw materials is mixed until complete homogenization;
[0132] (C): the aqueous phase of step (B) is added to the oily phase of step (A), followed by stirring the mixture;
[0133] (D): the other ingredients are added gradually to the mixture obtained in step (C) and mixed until homogeneous, at a temperature below 30 °C; and
[0134] (E): charges are added.
Claims
Demands
1. A cosmetic sunscreen composition comprising: (a) at least one fatty compound selected from isopropyl myristate, diisopropyl sebacate, dicaprylyl carbonate, propylene glycol dicaprylate / dicaprate, and mixtures thereof; (b) Copemicia cerifera (camauba) wax; (c) at least one filler selected from silica silylate, silica, perlite, and combinations thereof; (d) at least one surfactant selected from stearic acid, glyceryl stearate (and) PEG-100 stearate, potassium cetyl phosphate, and combinations thereof; and (e) a UV filter system.
2. Composition according to claim 1, wherein at least one fatty compound is present in the range of 0.1% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
3. Composition according to claim 1, wherein Copernicia cerifera (camauba) wax is present in the range of 0.5% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
4. Composition according to claim 1, wherein at least one filler is present in the range of 0.05% to 4.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
5. Composition according to claim 1, wherein at least one surfactant is present in the range of 0.05% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
6. Composition according to claim 1, wherein the UV filter system is present in the range of 5.0% to 25.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
7. A cosmetic sunscreen composition according to claim 1, wherein the UV filter system is selected from ethylhexyltriazone, hexyl diethylaminohydroxybenzoylbenzoate, isotridecyl phosphate, bis-ethylhexyloxyphen olmethoxyphenyltriazine, butylmethoxydibenzoylmethane, drometrizole trisiloxane, ethylhexyl salicylate, ethylhexyltriazone, homosalate, methylene bis-benzotriazolyltetramethylbutylphenol, octocrylene, phenylbenzozhnidazolesulfonic acid, polyglyceryl-10 laurate, terephthalylidene diamphr sulfonic acid, ethylenediamine disuccinate trisodium, and their combinations.
8. Cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein it further comprises cosmetically acceptable ingredients selected from additional UV filters, perfume / fragrance, preservatives, solvents, actives, surfactants, fatty compounds, vitamins, fillers, silicones, polymers, pigments, and combinations thereof.
9. A cosmetic sunscreen composition according to claim 1, comprising: (a) from 0.1% to 20.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of at least one fatty compound selected from isopropyl myristate, diisopropyl sebacate, dicaprylyl carbonate, propylene glycol dicaprylate / dicaprate, and mixtures thereof; (b) from 0.5% to 10.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of Copemicia cerifera (carnauba) wax; (c) from 0.05% to 4.0% by weight, relative to the total weight, of at least one filler selected from silica silylate, silica, perlite, and combinations thereof; (d) from 0.05% to 10.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of at least one surfactant selected from stearic acid, glyceryl stearate (and) PEG-100 stearate, potassium cetylphosphate and combinations thereof;and (e) from 5.0% to 25.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of a UV filter system.
10. Use of the cosmetic composition, as defined in claim 1, for the manufacture of a product intended for use as a daily sunscreen product.