COSMETIC USE OF A COMPOSITION COMPRISING AN AQUEOUS EXTRACT OF GREEN ALGAE AND PLANT PROTEINS FROM FABACEAE FOR THE PROTECTION AND REPAIR OF HAIR AGAINST OXIDATIVE DAMAGE INDUCED BY VARIOUS STRESS.

Abstract

COSMETIC USE OF A COMPOSITION COMPRISING AN AQUEOUS EXTRACT OF GREEN ALGAE AND PLANT PROTEINS FROM FABACEAE FOR THE PROTECTION AND REPAIR OF HAIR AGAINST OXIDATIVE DAMAGE INDUCED BY VARIOUS STRESS. The present invention relates to the cosmetic use of a composition comprising a hydrolyzed mixture of at least one aqueous extract of green algae from the class Ulvophyceae and plant proteins from plants of the Fabaceae family for the protection of hair against damage induced by exposure to oxidative stress, or its repair after such exposure. In particular, the invention relates to the use of such a composition for the protection of hair during heat treatment, chemical coloring, perming, exposure to UV radiation, air pollutants, salt, or chlorine.

Description

Title of the invention: COSMETIC USE OF A COMPOSITION COMPRISING AN AQUEOUS EXTRACT OF GREEN ALGAE AND PLANT PROTEINS ISSUES DE FABACEAE FOR THE PROTECTION AND REPAIR OF HAIR AGAINST OXIDATIVE DAMAGE INDUCED BY VARIOUS STRESS. CONTEXT OF THE INVENTION

[0001] The present invention relates to a new cosmetic active ingredient for hair care to protect hair against oxidative damage induced by multiple stresses including common cosmetic procedures such as frequent washing, chemical treatments such as colorings based on oxidation reactions, heat treatments such as the use of straighteners, curling irons, and hair dryers or environmental stresses including exposure to UV, pollutants, salt or chlorine. DESCRIPTION OF PREVIOUS ART Hair reminders

[0002] Hair plays a significant role in the expression of individual identity and cultural, strongly influencing self-esteem and social perception.

[0003] Beyond their biological function of protection against external elements, hair contributes to personal aesthetics, often reflecting general health, lifestyle, and personal choices in fashion and personal care.

[0004] The hair shaft, or hair fiber, is a complex structure mainly composed of keratins, that is to say sulfur-rich proteins which give hair strength and elasticity.

[0005] Keratins are made up of polypeptide chains of amino acids, which allows the formation of disulfide bonds essential to the strength and flexibility of the hair.

[0006] The hair shaft is organized into three main concentric layers: the cuticle, the cortex, and in some cases, the medulla located in its center.

[0007] The cuticle, the outermost layer of the shaft, is formed of dead, comb-like, flat, and overlapping cells that protect the cortex, the largest part of the hair where keratins organized into fibrils are predominantly found. This architecture is essential for the strength and integrity of the hair shaft.

[0008] However, the hair fiber is subjected to numerous external stresses that can compromise its integrity. Among the most frequent aggressions are repeated washing, mechanical stresses, chemical treatments including oxidative colorings, heat treatments, such as the use of hair dryers, straighteners or curling irons, environmental factors, including UV rays, air pollutants, salt, chlorine.

[0009] These procedures cause significant damage to the keratins, compromising the integrity of the hair structure. While healthy hair is characterized by compact and smooth cuticles, their alteration leads to their separation, increasing the porosity of the hair, making the hair fiber more permeable and vulnerable to humidity and other forms of environmental stress.

[0010] These changes at the microscopic level result in visual impacts. The hair becomes dry, prone to frizz, fragile, and brittle, with split ends and increased difficulty in styling.

[0011] In addition, the degradation of the hair surface leads to a decrease in light reflection, which manifests itself as dull hair characterized by a lack of shine.

[0012] At the molecular level, the loss of hair integrity is mainly due to the oxidation of the proteins that constitute it, in particular keratins.

[0013] This oxidation causes chemical changes within the protein structure of the hair, a phenomenon also known as carbonylation.

[0014] Carbonylation corresponds to the attachment of carbonyl derivatives in proteins, resulting in an alteration of their physico-chemical properties which in turn causes changes in their structures, their interactions and consequently their functions.

[0015] This modification of hair proteins reduces their ability to maintain the structural integrity and resilience of hair.

[0016] Chemical treatments such as oxidation staining, as well as exposure to other stresses including high heat sources, UV, pollutants, are key factors that promote this type of carbonylation reaction.

[0017] For example, oxidative hair coloring, considered one of the most aggressive stressors for hair, involves a process where, to allow the dyes to penetrate deep into the cortex of the hair shaft, a forced opening of the cuticles is necessary. This mechanism, while essential for the effectiveness of the coloring, exposes the hair to increased vulnerability, accompanied by a significant increase in the carbonylation of hair shaft proteins.

[0018] Consequently, the carbonylation of hair fiber proteins is an indicator of severe oxidative damage, highlighting the importance of protecting hair against the stresses it undergoes in order to preserve its health and aesthetics.

[0019] The use of amino acids, which are the major constituents of keratins and keratin-associated proteins, in hair care formulations represents a key strategy to counter this stress, offering protection against carbonylation and helping to maintain the integrity of the hair protein structure.

[0020] Indeed, the intake of amino acids helps to counterbalance the loss of these, acting as a filling effect.

[0021] In addition, some amino acids also possess antioxidant properties, offering dual protection against oxidative damage.

[0022] Pro-oxidant effects not only impair hair health but also its appearance, highlighting the importance of effective protective and restorative solutions in hair care formulations designed to protect hair from oxidative damage induced by the various stresses to which it is constantly subjected: mechanical, chemical, thermal, and environmental stresses. OBJECTS OF THE INVENTION

[0023] The multiple treatments and environmental stresses to which hair is subjected generate oxidative damage with significant consequences on its quality and beauty.

[0024] Thus, the search for natural and environmentally friendly preventive and / or restorative solutions to limit this damage appears essential for preserving the aesthetics of hair. These solutions must also meet the demands of consumers who seek products that comply with contemporary ecological challenges, that is to say, products of natural origin.

[0025] The present invention aims to meet these needs by offering a new active ingredient to protect and repair hair subjected to damage from various sources of stress, such as oxidative stress.

[0026] In particular, the present invention aims to provide a new active ingredient to repair oxidative damage or carbonylation of keratins and keratin-associated proteins of the hair shaft, to limit hair roughness due to excessive detachment of the cuticles which is the cause of their fragility, roughness, dullness and frizz.

[0027] The invention also aims to provide protection against damage caused by the heat, while preserving the biomechanical properties of the hair shaft, thus maintaining the elasticity and resistance of the hair to heat treatments such as drying and straightening.

[0028] It is with this in mind that the applicant company conducted research and demonstrated that a composition comprising a particular mixture, based on seaweed extract and vegetable proteins, made it possible to meet the objectives of the invention. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0029] The present invention is thus based on the unexpected discovery that a composition comprising a hydrolyzed mixture of at least one aqueous extract of green algae from the class of Ulvophyceae and proteins of plant origin from Fabacea exhibits remarkable preventive and restorative properties for the hair shaft with respect to the multiple factors to which hair is subjected: repeated washing, chemical or thermal treatments, environmental factors including exposure to UV radiation, atmospheric pollutants, salt or chlorine.

[0030] This composition reduces the roughness of the hair shaft, characterized by the lifting of the cuticles, thus preventing the tendency to a rough, dull appearance and brittleness of the hair.

[0031] It also limits the damage induced by repeated heat treatments which cause deterioration of the biomechanical properties of the hair and increased fragility.

[0032] The effectiveness of the composition according to the invention comes from its ability to reduce one of the fundamental mechanisms at the origin of these deteriorations, namely oxidative damage to keratins, major constituent proteins of the hair shaft.

[0033] Thus, the invention relates to the cosmetic use of a composition comprising a hydrolyzed mixture composed of at least one aqueous extract of green algae of the class of Ulvophyceae and proteins of plant origin from a plant of the family Fabacea for the protection of hair against damage induced by exposure to stress, in particular oxidative stress, or its repair after such exposure.

[0034] In particular, the invention relates to the cosmetic use of a composition comprising a hydrolyzed mixture of at least one aqueous extract of green algae of the class Ulvophyceae and proteins of plant origin from a plant of the family Fabacea for the protection and repair of hair during heat treatment, chemical coloring, perming, exposure to UV, atmospheric pollutants, salt or chlorine.

[0035] Advantageously, the protection and / or repair of hair against damage induced or caused by exposure to stress, in particular oxidative or thermal stress, includes the prevention and / or repair of the alteration of the properties biomechanics of the hair shaft, limitation of oxidation or carbonylation of hair shaft proteins, limitation of hair roughness.

[0036] Alterations in the biomechanical properties of the hair shaft, excess roughness are induced by repeated washings, by chemical treatments, such as coloring, or heat treatments, but also by certain environmental factors, including UV radiation, atmospheric pollutants, salt or chlorine.

[0037] In the context of this invention, the expression "alteration of the biomechanical properties of the hair shaft" refers to a condition of the hair linked to oxidative damage which has led to a degradation of the hair keratins.

[0038] This deterioration of keratins leads to a significant loss of tensile strength and elasticity, and increases the susceptibility of hair to breakage, thus reducing its ability to withstand daily mechanical stresses.

[0039] This alteration compromises the structural integrity of the hair, causing a significant increase in its roughness. It is characterized by a lifting of the cuticles on the hair surface, thus affecting its appearance and texture. This definition encompasses the visible manifestations of hair deterioration, highlighting the impact of oxidative damage on the health and aesthetics of the hair.

[0040] The expression "protected and / or repaired hair shaft" refers to a state of the hair in which the biomechanical properties, structure, and function of the hair fiber are maintained or tend to be restored to optimal conditions. In this state, the hair is preserved and / or repaired from the harmful effects of oxidative damage that can compromise the structure and cohesion of the hair keratins and the overall integrity of the hair. The protection and repair of the hair shaft thus ensure a significant reduction in roughness, preventing disorderly detachment of the cuticles from the hair surface. The result is hair whose integrity is preserved, which is resistant, resulting in a soft texture, increased shine, and improved overall manageability, reflecting a visual and tactile appearance of health and vitality.

[0041] Advantageously in the composition according to the invention, the aqueous extract(s) of green algae are extracts of algae of the genera Ulva, Enteromorpha or Monostroma, or a mixture.

[0042] Preferably, aqueous extracts of green algae are extracts of the algae Enteromorpha compressa.

[0043] Advantageously still, in the composition according to the invention, the vegetable proteins from a plant of the Fabaceae family are proteins from Pisum sativum.

[0044] For the purposes of the invention, plant proteins from Eabaceae, such as Pisum sativum, are understood to mean protein extracts in the form of isolates or concentrates.

[0045] In the composition according to the invention, polar (water-soluble) compounds such as amino acids were obtained by subjecting the extracts to hydrolysis processes, advantageously enzymatic, and were solubilized and / or extracted in a polar solvent. These amino acids, which are the major constituents of keratins and keratin-associated proteins, play a key role in the protection and repair of the hair fiber, counteracting the loss of these fibers due to the various stresses experienced by the hair and providing antioxidant properties that contribute to dual protection against oxidative damage.

[0046] Thus, according to the invention, the composition is composed of a mixture of at least one aqueous extract of green algae of the class of Ulvophyceae, in particular an aqueous extract of the green algae Enteromorpha compressa, and vegetable proteins from Fabaceae, in particular Pisum sativum, said extracts having undergone hydrolysis processes, in particular enzymatic.

[0047] Advantageously, the composition is characterized by an amino acid content of between 50 and 125 g / kg of extract, preferably between 80 and 100 g / kg.

[0048] The inventors of the present invention have thus demonstrated, using tests carried out directly on hair, that the said composition is capable of repairing damage caused by oxidative stress, in particular by oxidation coloring, including excess roughness at the level of the hair shaft.

[0049] Furthermore, it has been observed that the composition helps to preserve the biomechanical properties of the hair shaft, such as the modulus of elasticity (elastic coefficient), maximum tensile strength, and extensibility, when the hair is exposed to intense thermal stress, such as the frequent use of hair straighteners. This protective capacity is particularly advantageous for maintaining the structural integrity of the hair under high heat conditions.

[0050] In particular, according to the invention, the protection and repair of the hair shaft against multiple stresses for a protected and repaired hair includes the filling of the amino acids constituting the keratins which make up 85 to 95% of the hair shaft.

[0051] The application of the composition according to the invention makes it possible to repair oxidative damage or carbonylation of the proteins that constitute the hair shaft, induced in particular by oxidation staining.

[0052] The application of the extract according to the invention also makes it possible to prevent biomechanical alterations of the hair shaft induced in particular by heat treatments.

[0053] Maintaining the structure of the keratins thus ensures tight cuticles on the surface of the hair shaft for optimal hair integrity and aesthetics.

[0054] According to one embodiment of the invention, the composition is incorporated into a formulation intended for hair application, in which the amount of composition is greater than or equal to 0.01% and less than or equal to 5% by weight, preferably between 0.1 and 3%, relative to the total weight of the hair cosmetic formulation.

[0055] Advantageously, the cosmetic formulation for hair application can be presented in various forms adapted to the use, including, but not limited to, shampoos, conditioners, hair masks, hair oils, serums, lotions, detangling sprays, coloring products, smoothing products, anti-hair loss treatments, styling mousses, gels, styling waxes, balms, heat protectant sprays, styling products, hair tonics, anti-dandruff treatments, and volumizing sprays. These forms are designed to meet the specific needs of the hair and scalp, offering a variety of options for care and styling.

[0056] Such a hair formulation may obviously include one or more other compounds, including, but not limited to, colorants to adjust or enhance hair color, film-forming agents to form a protective film around the hair fiber, surfactants to help cleanse and distribute the product evenly on the hair and scalp, perfumes to enhance the product's scent, preservatives to extend the product's shelf life, emulsifiers to stabilize emulsion-type formulations, oils to nourish and moisturize the hair, UV filters to protect hair from sun damage, vitamins such as biotin and panthenol to strengthen and revitalize hair, proteins to rebuild and fortify the hair fiber, plant extracts for their various benefits to scalp and hair health, silicones to add shine and softness,Anti-frizz agents to combat frizz, and any other compound suitable for cosmetic application of the composition, aimed at improving the health, appearance, or manageability of hair.

[0057] The invention further relates to a composition as described above.

[0058] The invention also relates to a cosmetic hair treatment method, characterized in that it consists of applying a composition, as described above, or a hair formulation containing it, to the hair and / or scalp. According to the invention, the application takes place before, during, or after coloring, perming, heat exposure, UV exposure, exposure to air pollutants, salt exposure, or chlorine exposure.

[0059] This treatment aims to nourish, protect and repair the hair fiber, specifically targeting damage caused by environmental, chemical, or thermal factors, while preserving or restoring the health and aesthetics of the hair.

[0060] The preparation of the composition used within the framework of the invention can be carried out as indicated below.

[0061] Algae and leguminous plants can be harvested at an early stage as well as at a mature stage. They can be subjected to a partial or even total drying stage.

[0062] Preferably, algae and leguminous plants are harvested fresh and then partially dried to ensure better reproducibility of the composition.

[0063] Any extraction method known to a person skilled in the art and allowing the extraction of polar water-soluble compounds, including but not limited to polysaccharides, phenols, polyphenols, vitamins, proteins, peptides, amino acids, can be used to prepare the extract contained in the composition according to the invention.

[0064] The preparation of the aqueous extracts used according to the invention can be carried out by conventional and well-known liquid-phase extraction processes (maceration, decoction, infusion), in particular using polar solvents such as glycols (glycerols, propylene glycol, propane diol, butane diol, pentylene glycol) or buffered waters. Such processes are well known to those skilled in the art.

[0065] By way of non-limiting example, an extract according to the invention can be obtained by drying the fresh raw material; followed by grinding, maceration in water, and filtration. Each step is generally carried out under controlled conditions of agitation, temperature, pH, and duration.

[0066] In more detail, the following extraction process can be implemented:

[0067] Simultaneously, fresh or dried algae and leguminous plants are ground using tools such as conventional grinders or ultrasound. The extractions may optionally be preceded by enzymatic hydrolysis (proteases, glucanases, etc.) to improve the extraction yield.

[0068] Extractions are carried out under static agitation in a plant matter (algae or peas / solvent ratio that can vary from U2 to 1 / 20, at temperatures ranging from ambient temperature to 80°C, and over a period of time ranging from 30 minutes to 24 hours.

[0069] Extractions can also be carried out using microwaves or subcritical and supercritical solvents. Once extracted, the solid residues of the algae and peas are separated from the extractive solutions by decantation or centrifugation.

[0070] Each extract is then filtered through a membrane. In order to release the amino acids, the filtered extract can be subjected to enzymatic hydrolysis.

[0071] The extracts obtained, regardless of the extraction method, are then mixed in a ratio of 2 / 3 seaweed extract and 1 / 3 pea extract, and then dissolved in a polar solvent, such as propylene glycol or a mixture of glycol and water, to constitute the final composition.

[0072] Thus, according to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition is in solution in a polar solvent, in particular a glycol, such as glycerol, propanediol, butanediol or propylene glycol, or a mixture of glycol and water.

[0073] The features of the invention mentioned above, as well as others, will become clearer upon reading the examples that follow. EXAMPLES

[0074] Example 1: Extracts of Enteromorpha compressa and Pisum sativum enriched in amino acids were obtained by following the experimental protocol below

[0075] Aqueous extractions and enzymatic hydrolysis. In parallel, 50 kg Enteromorpha compressa and 50 kg of Pisum sativum are dispersed in 200 kg of water. Grinding is carried out using an Ultra-turrax type grinder for 12 hours at room temperature.

[0076] To release the amino acids, enzymatic hydrolysis using proteases added at a rate of 6% (w / w) is carried out. The enzymatic hydrolysis is conducted for 6 hours at 35°C.

[0077] The enzymatic hydrolyses are then stopped by inactivation of the enzyme heated to 80°C for 10 min in order to denature the proteases.

[0078] The two extracts are then filtered and mixed in a ratio of 2 / 3 seaweed extract and 1 / 3 pea extract and dissolved in 1,3-propanediol. Example 2: Determination of amino acid content

[0079] The method for measuring amino acids is high-performance liquid chromatography (HPLC) according to the following protocol:

[0080] Sample preparation: The filtered extracts are first hydrolyzed in the presence of 6N hydrochloric acid (HCl) at 110°C for 24 hours in order to release the amino acids in free form.

[0081] Chromatographic separation: The hydrolyzed samples are then injected into an HPLC system equipped with a C18 column and detected by a UV detector at 254 nm.

[0082] Quantification: Amino acids are quantified by comparison with known amino acid standards, using an internal standard to correct for variations in injection volume.

[0083] Table 1 presents comparative analyses of the percentage ranges of amino acids of extracts of Enteromorpha compressa, Ulva lactuca, Monostroma grevillei and Pisum sativum and of the composition.

[0084] [Tables 1] Amino acids % of amino acids in Enteromorpha compressa % of amino acids in U1 va lactuca % of amino acids in Mono stroma grevillei % of amino acids in Pisum sativum Aspartic acid 0.51-1.55 0.89-1.34 0.70-1.45 0.51-1.55 Glutamic acid 0.6-1.1 1.42-1.65 1.01-1.38 0.6-1.1 Alanine 0.2-0.6 0.38-0.54 0.29-0.57 0.2-0.6 Arginine 0.3-0.75 0.71-1.00 0.51-0.88 0.3-0.75 Cysteine ​​0.01-0.03 0.04-0.06 0.03-0.04 0.01-0.03 Glycine 0.21-0.28 0.31-0.38 0.26-0.33 0.21-0.28 Histidine 0.12-0.28 0.22-0.30 0.17-0.29 0.12-0.28 Isoleucine 0.21-0.35 0.26-0.43 0.24-0.39 0.21-0.35 Leucine 0.32-0.35 0.41-0.65 0.37-0.50 0.32-0.35 Lysine 0.38-0.43 0.59-0.71 0.49-0.57 0.38-0.43 Methionine 0.02-0.04 0.04-0.07 0.03-0.06 0.02-0.04 Phenylalanine 0.21-0.43 0.28-0.49 0.25-0.46 0.21-0.43 Proline 0.15-0.24 0.18-0.34 0.17-0.29 0.15-0.24 Serine 0.12-0.19 0.25-0.43 0.19-0.31 0.12-0.19 Threonine 0.09-0.26 0.18-0.39 0.14-0.33 0.09-0.26 Tryptophan 0.07-0.08 0.07-0.10 0.07-0.09 0.07-0.08 Tyrosine 0.11-0,15 0.16-0.24 0.14-0.20 0.11-0.15 Valine 0.12-0.33 0.25-0.47 0.19-0.40 0.12-0.33,

[0085] Table 2 presents comparative analyses of the percentage ranges of amino acids from different extracts of plants from the Fabaceae family.

[0086] [Tables2] Amino acids % of amino acids in Pisum s ativum extract % of amino acids in Cicer ariet inum extract % of amino acids in Lens eu linaris extract % of amino acids in Phase olus vulga ris extract % of amino acids in Vicia f aba extract % of amino acids in Glycin emax extract Aspartic acid 0.51-1.55 0.58-1.62 0.50-1.50 0.60-1.70 0.65-1.75 0.70-1.80 Glutamic acid 0.60-1.10 0.68-1.15 0.55-1.05 0.75-1.20 0.80-1.30 0.85-1.35 Alanine 0.20-0.60 0.25-0.65 0.18-0.58 0.28-0.70 0.30-0.75 0.32-0.78 Arginine 0.30-0.75 0.35-0.80 0.28-0.70 0.38-0.90 0.40-0.95 0.42-1.00 Cysteine ​​0.01-0.03 0.02-0.04 0.02-0.04 0.02-0.05 0.02-0.05 0.03-0.06 Glycine 0.21-0.28 0.23-0.30 0.20-0.26 0.26-0.35 0.28-0.38 0.30-0.40 Histidine 0.12-0.28 0.15-0.32 0.10-0.26 0.18-0.35 0.20-0.38 0.22-0.40 Isoleucine 0.21-0.35 0.25-0.40 0.19-0.33 0.28-0.45 0.30-0.50 0.32-0.55 Leucine 0.32-0.35 0.35-0.40 0.30-0.34 0.38-0.45 0.40-0.48 0.42-0.50 Lysine 0.38-0.43 0.40-0.48 0.36-0.41 0.42-0.50 0.45-0.52 0.48-0.55 Methionine 0.02-0.04 0.03-0.05 0.02-0.04 0.03-0.06 0.03-0.06 0.04-0.07 Phenylalanine 0.21-0.43 0.25-0.45 0.20-0.40 0.28-0.48 0.30-0.50 0.32-0.52 Proline 0.15-0.24 0.18-0.27 0.13-0.22 0.22-0.30 0.24-0.32 0.26-0.34 Serine 0.12-0.19 0.14-0.22 0.11-0.17 0.16-0.24 0.18-0.26 0.20-0.28 Threonine 0,09-0.26 0.11-0.28 0.08-0.24 0.14-0.32 0.15-0.35 0.17-0.38 Tryptopha ne 0.07-0.08 0.09-0.10 0.06-0.07 0.11-0.12 0.12-0.14 0.13-0.15 Tyrosine 0.11-0.15 0.14-0.18 0.10-0.14 0.16-0.20 0.18-0.22 0.20-0.24 Valine 0.12-0.33 0.15-0.36 0.11-0.30 0.18-0.40 0.20-0.45 0.22-0.48,

[0087] Table 3 presents comparative analyses of the percentage ranges of amino acids in compositions made from extracts of Enteromorpha compressa or Ulva lactuca or Monostroma grevillei and Pisum sativum

[0088] [Tables3] % of amino acids in the compositions % of amino acids in the composition Enteromorpha compressa + Pisum sativum % of amino acids in the composition Ulval lactuca + Pisum sativum % of amino acids in the composition Monostroma grevillei + Pisum sativum Aspartic acid 0.75 - 1.45 0.89 - 1.34 0.70 - 1.45 Glutamic acid 1.01 - 1.34 1.42 - 1.65 1.01 - 1.38 Alanine 0.29 - 0.57 0.38 - 0.54 0.29 - 0.57 Arginine 0.50 - 0.80 0.71 - 1.00 0.51 - 0.88 Cysteine ​​0.03 - 0.04 0.04 - 0.06 0.03 - 0.04 Glycine 0.28 - 0.33 0.31 - 0.38 0.26 - 0.33 Histidine 0.17 - 0.27 0.22 - 0.30 0.17 - 0.29 Isoleucine 0.30 - 0.39 0.26 - 0.43 0.24 - 0.39 Leucine 0.47-0.51 0.41 - 0.65 0.37 - 0.50 Lysine 0.53 - 0.57 0.59-0.71 0.49 - 0.57 Methionine 0.04 - 0.05 0.04 - 0.07 0.03 - 0.06 Phenylalanine 0.31-0.46 0.28 - 0.49 0.25 - 0.46 Proline 0.23 - 0.29 0.18-0.34 0.17 - 0.29 Serine 0.26-0.31 0.25 - 0.43 0.19-0.31 Threonine 0.21 - 0.32 0.18-0.39 0.14 - 0.33 Tryptophan 0.08 - 0.09 0.07-0.10 0.07 - 0.09 Tyrosine 0.17-0.19 0.16-0.24 0.14 - 0.20 Valine 0.25 - 0.40 0.25 - 0.47 0.19 - 0.40

[0089] The amino acid content per kilogram of the compositions is between 50 and 125 g / kg of extract, preferably between 80 and 100 g / kg.

[0090] Analyses performed on extracts of various green algae from the class Ulvophyceae show that their amino acid concentrations are quite similar. Likewise, analyses performed on extracts of various plants from the family Fabaceae show that their amino acid concentrations are quite similar. This similarity indicates consistency in protein and amino acid composition within the family, suggesting consistent quality and composition, regardless of the specific species.

[0091] Example 3: Repair of oxidative damage to the hair shaft

[0092] The objective of this study is to evaluate the efficacy of hydrolyzed aqueous extracts of Enteromorpha compressa and Pisum sativum, as well as the composition resulting from the mixture of hydrolyzed aqueous extracts of the algae Enteromorpha compressa and Plant proteins derived from Pisum sativum are used to repair oxidative damage induced by oxidative hair coloring, which is among the most damaging forms of hair damage. Efficacy in repairing oxidative damage induced by oxidative coloring was also evaluated with compositions made from Ulva lactuca and Pisum sativum or Monostroma grevillei and Pisum sativum. Operating procedure#:

[0093] The Enteromorpha compressa and Pisum sativum composition used was obtained according to the extraction process shown in Example 1. The Ulva lactuca and Pisum sativum or Monostroma grevillei and Pisum sativum compositions were obtained according to the same extraction process.

[0094] The virgin hair strands were subjected to the oxidation coloring product as recommended by the coloring protocol.

[0095] The hair is then thoroughly rinsed with clear water and then dried naturally before the application of the separate extracts or the different compositions diluted to 3% in water.

[0096] The control strands were not colored, whereas the stressed strands were colored by oxidation coloring and were not treated with the compositions.

[0097] After the treatments and sampling, the carbonylated proteins that correspond to oxidative damage on the hair shafts were labeled and detected using a fluorescent probe specific to carbonyl groups.

[0098] Fluorescent images were taken with an epi-fluorescent microscope and analyzed with hnageL software

[0099] The acquisition conditions were identical for all samples. The carbonylation intensity was measured by integrating the specific fluorescence signal, normalized by the evaluated value.

[0100] TABLE 4 below summarizes the effects of the separate extracts and compositions with respect to oxidative damage to hair shaft proteins induced by oxidation staining.

[0101] For statistics, values ​​of p<0.05 are considered significant (*) and p<0.001 are considered highly significant (***), (Student's t-test compared to colored control hair without extract).

[0102] [Tables4] Hair Intensity Hair Hair Hair Hair Hair fluorescence ux con x control colored px colored colored p colored p colored p corresponds to controls the colors treated s then treated uis treated uis treated uis treated ant at the intensity virgins without with the exact aities with with the c with the c with the co untreated carb esity trait aque c the extra ompositio ompositio mposition onylation colored s, untreated ent ux hydrol ysed Enter omorpha compress a &3% it aqueous x hydrol ysed of P isum sa tivum at 3% n of hydrolyzed aqueous extracts Entero morpha c ompressa + Pisum s ativum at 3% n of extracts aqueous hydrolyzed s Ulva lac tuca + Pis um sativu m &3% hydrolyzed aqueous extracts Monostr orna grev illei + Pis um sativu m &3% Average 100 377 325* 339* 270*** 285*** Standard deviation 2 8 12 5 3 5 3 Variation rate +277% -14% -10% -27% -28% -24% ation of pro vs hair vs Hair vs Hair vs Hair vs Hair vs Hair vs Hair téines carbo ux virgin x control eux cont x control x control x control nylated es s colored s without extract roles colored without extract s colored s without extract s colored s without extract s colored s without extract

[0103] Oxidation staining strongly induced the appearance of carbonylated proteins of +277%, confirming the severe oxidative damage caused by this type of chemical treatment.

[0104] The compositions of Enteromorpha compressa + Pisum sativum, Ulva lactuca + Pisum sativum, and Monostroma grevillei + Pisum sativum, applied to hair at a 3% concentration after oxidative coloring, significantly reduced the formation of carbonylated proteins by -27%, -28%, and -24%, respectively, demonstrating a repairing effect against oxidative damage. Hydrolyzed extracts of Enteromorpha compressa or Pisum sativum alone were less effective than the different compositions.

[0105] Example 4: Repair of cuticle detachment on the surface of the hair shaft causing hair roughness

[0106] The objective of this study is to evaluate the efficacy of hydrolyzed aqueous extracts of Enteromorpha compressa and Pisum sativum, as well as the composition resulting from a mixture of hydrolyzed aqueous extracts of the algae Enteromorpha compressa and vegetable proteins from Pisum sativum, in repairing cuticle detachment induced by oxidation coloring and responsible for hair roughness. The efficacy in repairing cuticle detachment induced by the Oxidation staining was also evaluated with compositions made with Ulva lactuca and Pisum sativum or Monostroma grevillei and Pisum sativum. Operating procedure#:

[0107] The Enteromorpha compressa and Pisum sativum composition used was obtained according to the extraction process shown in Example 1. The Ulva lactuca and Pisum sativum or Monostroma grevillei and Pisum sativum compositions were obtained according to the same extraction process.

[0108] The virgin hair strands were subjected to the oxidation coloring product as recommended by the coloring protocol.

[0109] The hair is then thoroughly rinsed with clear water and then dried naturally before the application of the separate extracts or the different compositions diluted to 3% in water.

[0110] The control strands were not colored, whereas the stressed strands were colored by oxidation coloring and were not treated with the compositions.

[0111] The hair shafts are labeled and analyzed by confocal fluorescence microscopy, XFluo® technology, developed by Kamax. Two hundred optical sections are made and used to reconstruct in 3D the surface of the analyzed hair shaft.

[0112] The average roughness is evaluated in pm using 18 measurements for each of the conditions.

[0113] TABLE 5 below summarizes the effects of aqueous extracts and different compositions with respect to the roughness induced by oxidation coloring.

[0114] For statistics, p-values ​​< 0.001 are considered highly significant (***), (Student's t-test compared to colored control hair without extract).

[0115] [Tables 5] Roughness at 1 Hair Hair Hair c Hair Hair Hair Hair a control surface x controlled coloured then coloured p coloured px coloured coloured p virgin hair shafts n the coloured treated avuis treated uis treated s then truis treated es (pm) on coloured res without ec the extract s with the es with the aités ave with the co s, non-tratraitm aqueous hy xtrait aq composi c the composition ités ent drolysed En ueux hydration tion of extract position of teromorph rolysed extracts of aqueous extracts of aqueous extracts ha compressed Pisum s deux hydr ts aqueu hydrolysed a at 3% ativum to olysed En x hydrol Monostr 3% teromorphysed Ulv oma grev ha compr a lactuc illei + Pis essa + Pi a + Pisu sum sativ m sativ um sativ um at 3% m at 3% m at 3% Mean 0.197 0.233 0.199*** 0.211*** 0.176*** 0.179** 0.176*** * Standard deviation 0.06 0.053 0.022 0.034 0.032 0.024 Rate of variation +19% -14% -10% -25% -23% -25% variation of 1 vs hair vs Hair vs Hair vs Hair vs Hair vs Hair a roughness of two vier x controls ux controls ux controls ux controls contux control surface of colored hairs without colored hairs colored hairs colored hairs colored hairs the hair shaft extracts without extracts without extracts without extracts without extracts treated extracts

[0116] Oxidation staining increased the surface roughness of the hair shafts by +19%.

[0117] Compositions of Enteromorpha compressa + Pisum sativum, Ulva lactuca + Pisum sativum, and Monostroma grevillei + Pisum sativum, applied to hair at a concentration of 3% after oxidative coloring, significantly improved the rough appearance of the hair by -25%, -23%, and -25%, respectively, demonstrating a restorative effect against oxidative damage. Hydrolyzed extracts of Enteromorpha compressa or Pisum sativum alone were less effective than the different compositions.

[0118] After demonstrating that the compositions are more effective than the extracts taken independently in repairing oxidative damage and alterations of the cuticles which cause roughness of the hair, the next step was to evaluate the effects of the composition of Enteromorpha compressa + Pisum sativum on certain biomechanical properties of the hair shaft.

[0119] Example 5: Prevention of alteration of the biomechanical properties of the hair shaft

[0120] This study aims to examine whether the composition from the mixture of hydrolyzed aqueous extracts of the green algae Enteromorpha compressa and vegetable proteins from Pisum sativum limits alterations in biomechanical properties such as the modulus of elasticity (elastic coefficient), maximum tensile strength and extensibility, when hair is exposed to intense thermal stresses, such as the frequent use of straightening irons. Operating procedure#:

[0121] The composition used was obtained according to the extraction process shown in Example 1.

[0122] The composition was diluted to 3% in a serum and applied to strands of hair using a gentle massage.

[0123] The control strands were treated with the serum without the extracts.

[0124] The strands are then straightened using a straightener at 230°C.

[0125] The procedure is repeated 5 times before the analysis of the biomechanical parameters of the hair using the Dia-Stron MTT680 which allows measurement of the modulus of elasticity (elastic coefficient), the maximum tensile strength and the extension capacity.

[0126] TABLE 6 below summarizes the effects of composition on alterations in the elasticity coefficient (elastic coefficient in MPa), induced by repeated thermal stress on the smoother.

[0127] For statistics, values ​​of p<0.001 are considered highly significant (***), (Kruskal-Wallis test compared to colored control hair without extract).

[0128] [Tableauxô] Biomechanical parameters of hair: elasticity coefficient (MPa) Virgin, unstraightened, untreated control hair Straightened hair + placebo serum Straightened hair + hydrolyzed aqueous extract composition of Enteromorpha compressa + Pisum sativum at 3% Mean 1710 83.3 W1*** Standard deviation 126 38.2 198 Rate of change -1958% versus Virgin, unstraightened, untreated control hair +88% versus Straightened hair + placebo serum

[0129] Repeated straightening, which causes thermal stress, has significantly reduced the elasticity coefficient by -1958%, demonstrating the significant loss of elasticity in stressed hair.

[0130] The composition applied to the hair at 3% before straightening significantly increased the elasticity coefficient compared to hair treated with the placebo.

[0131] TABLE 7 below summarizes the effects of composition on alterations in maximum tensile strength induced by repeated thermal stress of the smoother.

[0132] For statistics, values ​​of p<0.001 are considered highly significant (***), (Kruskal-Wallis test compared to colored control hair without extract).

[0133] [Tables7] Biomechanical parameters of hair: maximum tensile strength (MPa) Controlled virgin, unstraightened, untreated hair Straightened hair + placebo serum Straightened hair + hydrolyzed aqueous extract composition Enteromorpha compressa + Pisum saturatum at 3% Mean 202 50.2 107*** Standard deviation 11.9 10.4 17.5 Rate of change -301% versus unstraightened, untreated virgin control hair +53% versus straightened hair + placebo serum

[0134] Repeated straightening, which caused thermal stress, greatly reduced the maximum tensile strength by -301%, demonstrating the significant loss of resistance of stressed hair.

[0135] The composition applied to the hair at 3% before straightening significantly increased the maximum tensile strength compared to hair treated with placebo.

[0136] TABLE 8 below summarizes the effects of composition on alterations in extension capacity induced by repeated thermal stress of the smoother.

[0137] For statistics, values ​​of p<0.001 are considered highly significant (***), (Turkey test against colored control hair without extract).

[0138] [Tables8] Biomechanical parameters of hair: extension capacity (%) Virgin, unstraightened, untreated control hair Straightened hair + placebo serum Straightened hair + hydrolyzed aqueous extract composition of Enteromorpha compressa + Pisum sativum at 3% Mean 55.9 40.9 53.2*** Standard deviation 3.16 3.53 2.42 Rate of change -37% versus Virgin, unstraightened, untreated control hair +23% versus Straightened hair + placebo serum

[0139] Repeated straightening responsible for thermal stress significantly reduced the extension capacity by -37% demonstrating the strong loss of resistance of stressed hair.

[0140] The composition applied to the hair at 3%, before straightening significantly increased the extension capacity compared to hair treated with placebo. CONCLUSION

[0141] The invention illustrates the remarkable effectiveness of a composition derived from a mixture hydrolyzed by enzymatic process of an aqueous extract of the green algae Enteromorpha compressa of the family Ulvaceae and of proteins of plant origin preferably from an aqueous extract of Pisum sativum in the repair of the hair shaft against the deleterious effects of oxidative coloring, one of the most deleterious stresses for hair, as well as against the deleterious effects of heat treatments.

[0142] By targeting the mechanisms underlying hair problems, mainly the alteration of keratins by their oxidation or carbonylation, this natural composition offers an innovative solution to preserve hair health by repairing the loss of its integrity and excessive roughness.

[0143] The application of the composition results in strengthened, soft, shiny, and manageable hair, demonstrating its ability to preserve and repair the hair shaft against multiple damages induced by chemical, thermal or environmental stresses.

[0144] Thus, the invention highlights a significant advance in hair care, emphasizing the importance of natural solutions to repair oxidative damage in order to maintain the integrity of the hair fiber for preserved and aesthetically pleasing hair.

Claims

Demands

1. Cosmetic use of a composition comprising a hydrolyzed mixture of at least one aqueous extract of green algae of the class Ulvophyceae and proteins of plant origin from plants of the family Fabaceae for the protection of hair against damage induced by exposure to stress, such as oxidative or thermal stress, or its repair after such exposure.

2. Use according to claim 1, for the protection of hair during heat treatment, chemical coloring, perming, exposure to UV, air pollutants, salt or chlorine.

3. Use according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the protection includes the prevention of alteration of the hair shaft, the limitation of oxidation or carbonylation of the proteins of the hair shaft, the limitation of the porosity of the hair and its roughness.

4. Use according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the aqueous extract(s) of green algae are extracts of algae of the genus Ulva, Enteromorpha or Monostroma, or a mixture.

5. Use according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the aqueous extracts of green algae are extracts of the algae Enteromorpha compressa.

6. Use according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the plant-based proteins are derived from pisum sativum.

7. Use according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition is characterized by an amino acid content of between 50 and 125 g / kg of extract, preferably between 80 and 100 g / kg.

8. Use according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition is incorporated into a formula, wherein the amount of extract is greater than or equal to 0.01% and less than or equal to 5% by weight, preferably between 0.1 and 3%, relative to the total weight of the formula.

9. Use according to claim 8, characterized in that the formula is in the form of a shampoo, a conditioner, of a hair mask, oil, serum, lotion, detangling spray, coloring product, smoothing product, anti-hair loss product, styling mousse, gel, styling wax, balm, heat protectant spray, styling product, hair tonic, dandruff treatment product, or volumizing spray.

10. Use according to any one of claims 8 or 9, characterized in that the formula includes one or more other compounds such as colorants, film-forming agents, surfactants, perfumes, preservatives, emulsifiers, oils, UV filters, vitamins, proteins, plant extracts, silicones, or anti-frizz agents.

11. Cosmetic composition comprising a hydrolyzed mixture of at least one aqueous extract of green algae of the class Ulvophyceae and proteins of vegetable origin from a plant of the family Fabaceae.

12. Composition according to claim 11, characterized in that the aqueous extract(s) of green algae are extracts of algae of the genus Ulva, Monostroma or Enteromorpha, in particular Enteromorpha compressa, or a mixture.

13. Composition according to claim 11 or 12, characterized in that the plant-based proteins are derived from depisum sativum.

14. Composition according to any one of claims 11 to 13, characterized in that it comprises an amino acid content of between 50 and 125 g / kg of extract, preferably between 80 and 100 g / kg.

15. A cosmetic hair treatment method, characterized in that it consists of applying a composition as described in any one of claims 11 to 13, or a formula containing it, to the hair and / or scalp.

16. A method according to claim 15, characterized in that the application takes place before, during or after coloring, perming, exposure to heat, exposure to UV, exposure to atmospheric pollutants, exposure to salt or exposure to chlorine.