COMPOSITION IN THE FORM OF STABLE OLEOGELS

Abstract

COMPOSITION in the form of stable oleogels. The present invention relates to a composition comprising: a) at least one acyl amino acid of formula (I): (I) in which, - R1 represents hydrogen, -(CH2)m-NH2, -(CH2)n-COOH, -(CH2)p-OH, or a linear or branched C1-C20 alkyl group, m, n, and p are independently integers from 0 to 10; - R2 represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based group, preferably selected from an alkyl or alkenyl group; b) at least one surfactant with at least two saturated fatty acid chains; and c) at least one oil. The present invention also relates to a non-therapeutic method for the treatment of keratinous materials, comprising the application of the composition according to the present invention to said keratinous materials. Figure for the abstract: none

Description

Title of the invention: COMPOSITION in the form of stable oleogels technical field

[0001] The present invention relates to a composition. The present invention also relates to a non-therapeutic method for treating keratinous materials. STATE OF THE ART

[0002] The development of products for cosmetic use is ongoing. Traditionally, cosmetic active ingredients are delivered in liquid or semi-solid formulations.

[0003] Liquid and semi-solid formulations are available in various forms, including ointments, creams, foams, gels or lotions, etc.

[0004] Oil-phase gelation is widely applied in the formulation of skin care, hair care and makeup products.

[0005] To date, oleogel formation is practically achieved by adding polymers, waxes, and low molecular weight molecules. These oil gelling agents lead to oleogel formation through various mechanisms. Their common characteristic is the presence of a solid-like nanometric network covering a continuous, three-dimensional oil phase.

[0006] However, some cosmetic products in the form of oleogels are not satisfactory because they are not stable; phase separation occurs after a short period of storage.

[0007] It is desirable that the commercial products be stable over time, for example, that they can remain stable for at least one month.

[0008] Therefore, there is always a need to develop a composition that is an oleogel and is stable over time. Summary of the invention

[0009] An object of the present invention is therefore to develop a composition which is an oleogel and is stable over time.

[0010] Thus, according to a first aspect, the present invention proposes a composition comprising:

[0011] a) at least one acyl amino acid of formula (I): HO k2 K Oh #

[0012] in which,

[0013] - RI represents hydrogen, -(CH2)m-NH2, -(CH2)n-COOH, -(CH2)P-OH, or an alkyl in linear or branched CrC2o, m, n and p are independently an integer from 0-10;

[0014] - R2 represents a linear or branched, saturated hydrocarbon-based group or unsaturated, preferably chosen from an alkyl or alkenyl;

[0015] b) at least one surfactant with at least two saturated fatty acid chains; and

[0016] c) at least one oil.

[0017] The inventors have discovered that the composition according to the present invention can be in the form of an oleogel and is stable over time (for example, at least one month).

[0018] The composition according to the present invention may be a cosmetic composition.

[0019] According to a second aspect, the present invention proposes a non-therapeutic method for the care of keratinous materials comprising the application of the composition as described above to the keratinous materials.

[0020] Other subjects, features, aspects, and advantages of the present invention will be presented in the following description and will be partly evident from the description or may be learned through practice of the present invention. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0021] Unless otherwise defined, all technical and scientific terms used herein have the same meaning as that commonly understood by a person skilled in the art of the present invention. Where the definition of a term in this description conflicts with the meaning commonly understood by a person skilled in the art of the present invention, the definition described herein shall apply.

[0022] As used herein, unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a range of values ​​are included in that range, in particular in the expressions "between... and..." and "from... to...".

[0023] Furthermore, the expression "at least one" used in this description is equivalent to the expression "one or more".

[0024] Throughout this application, the term "including" shall be interpreted as encompassing all the features specifically mentioned as well as optional, additional, unspecified features. As used herein, the use of the term "including" also discloses the embodiment in in which no particularity other than the specifically mentioned particularities is present (i.e.,* consisting of").

[0025] Unless otherwise specified, all numerical values ​​expressing a quantity of ingredients and the like used in the description and claims shall be understood as modified by the term "approximately". Consequently, unless otherwise indicated, the numerical values ​​and parameters described herein are approximate values ​​which, if necessary, may be changed according to the desired purpose.

[0026] As used herein, the expression "keratinous materials" includes human keratinous materials such as hair and skin.

[0027] In the present invention, all percentages refer, unless otherwise specified, to a percentage by weight.

[0028] For the purposes of the present invention, and unless otherwise indicated:

[0029] - an "alkyl" radical designates a linear or branched saturated radical containing, by for example, from 1 to 30 carbon atoms;

[0030] - an "alkenyl" radical designates a linear or branched hydrocarbon-based group ethylenically unsaturated, for example, from 1 to 30 carbon atoms;

[0031] - an "alkoxy" radical designates an alkyl-oxy radical with "alkyl" as defined previously. Acyl amino acids

[0032] According to the first aspect, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one acyl amino acid of formula (I): H o ® p.2 A A. nH Y । OR RI

[0033] in which,

[0034] - RI represents hydrogen, -(CH2)m-NH2, -(CH2)n-COOH, -(CH2)P-OH, or an alkyl in linear or branched CrC2o, m, n and p are independently an integer from 0-10;

[0035] - R2 represents a linear or branched, saturated hydrocarbon-based group or unsaturated, preferably chosen from an alkyl or alkenyl.

[0036] Preferably, in formula (I), RI represents hydrogen, -(CH2)m-NH2, -(CH2)n-COOH, -(CH2)P-OH, a linear C1-C6 alkyl, m, n and p are independently integers from 1-6, R2 represents a linear or branched C7-C2i alkyl or alkenyl

[0037] More preferably, in formula (I), RI represents hydrogen, -(CH2)m-NH2, -(CH2)n-COOH, -(CH2)P-OH, a linear C1-C4 alkyl, m, n and p are independently an integer from 1-4, R2 represents a linear or branched C7-C19 alkyl or alkenyl.

[0038] Even more preferably, in formula (I), RI represents hydrogen, -(CH2)m-NH2, -(CH2)n-COOH, -(CH2)P-OH, a linear alkyl in C1-C4, m, n and p are independently an integer from 2-4, R2 represents a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl in C7-Ci7.

[0039] Furthermore, more preferably, in formula (I), RI represents hydrogen, -(CH2)4-NH2j -(CH2)2-COOH, -(CH2)4-OH, or -CH3, R2 represents a linear or branched C7 alkyl or alkenyl -Ci7. Even more preferably, the acyl amino acid is chosen from cocoyl glutamic acid, lauroyl glutamic acid, stearoyl glutamic acid, myristoyl glutamic acid, palmitoyl glutamic acid, oleoyl glutamic acid, cocoyl alanine, lauroyl alanine, stearoyl alanine, myristoyl alanine, palmitoyl alanine, oleoyl alanine, cocoyl glycine, lauroyl glycine, stearoyl glycine, myristoyl glycine, palmitoyl glycine, oleoyl glycine, cocoyl lysine, lauroyl lysine, stearoyl lysine, myristoyl lysine, palmitoyl lysine, oleyl lysine and mixtures thereof.

[0040] More preferably, the acyl amino acid is chosen from cocoyl alanine, lauroyl alanine, stearoyl alanine, myristoyl alanine, palmitoyl alanine, oleoyl alanine, and mixtures thereof.

[0041] Most preferably, the composition according to the present invention comprises lauroyl alanine.

[0042] Advantageously, acyl amino acid is present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.1% by weight to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.5% by weight to 25% by weight, more preferably from 1% by weight to 20% by weight, even more preferably from 1.5% by weight to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0043] Surfactants with at least two saturated fatty acid chains

[0044] According to the first aspect, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one surfactant with at least two saturated fatty chains.

[0045] Preferably, the surfactant with at least two saturated fatty chains is chosen from anionic surfactants, cationic surfactants and non-ionic surfactants, with at least two alkyl chains at C5 22.

[0046] Examples of anionic surfactants with at least two C7 22 alkyl chains include dialkyl sulfosuccinates, each alkyl group containing 5 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 18 carbon atoms (such as diethylhexyl). sodium sulfosuccinate, sodium dihexyl sulfosuccinate), sodium distearyl phosphate, sodium dilauryl phosphate, sodium dilauramidoglutamide lysine, sodium ethylene bis(N-dodecanoyl-asparatate), etc.

[0047] Examples of cationic surfactants with at least two C8 22 alkyl chains include dialkyldimonium halides in which each alkyl contains from 5 to 22 carbon atoms (such as dimethyldidodecylammonium bromide, distearyldimonium chloride, dicetyldimonium chloride, dibehenyldimethylammonium chloride), trialkyldimonium chlorides in which each alkyl contains from 5 to 22 carbon atoms (such as tricetylmonium chloride, tristearylmonium chlorides), and mixtures thereof.

[0048] Examples of non-ionic surfactants with at least two C5 22pn alkyl chains include polyol esters with fatty acids having a saturated chain containing 5 to 22 carbon atoms, and their alkoxylated derivatives, such as (poly)ethylene glycol esters of a C5-C22 fatty acid, preferably C8-C18, and their alkoxylated derivatives; (poly)glyceryl esters of a C5-C22 fatty acid, preferably C8-C18, and their alkoxylated derivatives; sorbitol esters of a C5-C22 fatty acid, preferably C8-C18, and their alkoxylated derivatives; sucrose esters of a C5-C22 fatty acid, preferably C8-C18, and their alkoxylated derivatives; and one of their mixtures.

[0049] Examples of (poly)ethylene glycol esters include ethylene glycol dilaurate, ethylene glycol distearate, PEG-3 distearate, PEG-8 distearate, PEG-12 distearate, PEG-50 distearate, PEG-80 distearate, PEG-100 distearate, PEG-120 distearate, PEG-150 distearate, PEG-2 dilaurate, PEG-4 dilaurate, PEG-8 dilaurate, etc.

[0050] Examples of (poly)glyceryl esters of fatty acids include glyceryl distearate, glyceryl tristearate, glyceryl dilaurate, glyceryl dipalmitate, polyglyceryl distearate, polyglyceryl tristearate, a polyglyceryl triisostearate such as polyglyceryl-2 triisostearate, a polyglyceryl diisostearate such as polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate, a polyglyceryl dicaprate such as polyglyceryl-6 dicaprate, etc., with 2 to 10 glycerol motifs for the polyglyceryl esters.

[0051] As examples of sorbitol esters, sorbitan tristearate may be cited.

[0052] Examples of sucrose esters include sucrose dilaurate, sucrose trilaurate, sucrose tristearate, etc.

[0053] Preferably, the surfactant with at least two saturated fatty chains is chosen from dialkyl sulfosuccinates in which each alkyl contains from 5 to 22 carbon atoms, (poly)glyceryl diesters of a C5-C22 fatty acid, and mixtures thereof.

[0054] More preferably, the surfactant with at least two saturated fatty chains is chosen from dialkyl sulfosuccinates in which each alkyl contains 8 to 18 carbon atoms, polyglyceryl diesters of a C8-C[8] fatty acid with 2-10 glycerol motifs, and mixtures thereof.

[0055] More preferably still, the surfactant with at least two saturated fatty chains is chosen from sodium diethylhexyl sulfosuccinate, polyglyceryl-6 dicaprate, and mixtures thereof.

[0056] Advantageously, the surfactant with at least two saturated fatty chains is present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.1% by weight to 35% by weight, preferably from 0.5% by weight to 30% by weight, more preferably from 1% by weight to 25% by weight, even more preferably from 3% by weight to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0057] Preferably, the weight ratio between the surfactant with at least two saturated fatty acid chains and the acyl amino acid is at least 0.5:1, preferably 0.8:1–5:1. Oils

[0058] According to the first aspect, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one oil.

[0059] The oil or oils may be chosen from hydrocarbon-based oils, volatile or non-volatile, polar or non-polar, silicone oils, and mixtures thereof.

[0060] The term "oil" refers to a fatty substance that is liquid at room temperature (25 °C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg, i.e., 1.013 x 10⁵ Pa). The oil may be volatile or non-volatile.

[0061] For the purposes of the present invention, the expression "silicone oil" means an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and in particular at least one Si-O group, and more particularly an organopolysiloxane.

[0062] The expression "hydrocarbon-based oil" refers to an oil containing primarily carbon and hydrogen atoms and optionally one or more functional groups selected from among the hydroxyl, ester, ether, and carboxyl groups. These oils are therefore different from silicone oils.

[0063] For the purposes of this invention, the term "volatile oil" refers to any oil that is capable of evaporating upon contact with the skin in less than one hour, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. Volatile oil is a volatile cosmetic compound that is liquid at room temperature, having in particular a non-zero vapor pressure, and at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, having in particular a vapor pressure ranging from 2.66 Pa to 40,000 Pa, in particular from 2.66 Pa to 13,000 Pa, and more particularly from 2.66 Pa to 1,300 Pa.

[0064] The term "non-volatile oil" refers to an oil that remains on the skin at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure for at least several hours, and which has, in particular, a vapor pressure of less than 2.66 Pa, preferably less than 0.13 Pa. By way of example, the vapor pressure can be measured by the static method or by the isothermal thermogravimetric effusion method, depending on the vapor pressure (OECD Standard 104). Volatile hydrocarbon-based oils

[0065] Among volatile hydrocarbon-based oils, special mention may be made of those selected from hydrocarbon-type oils (i.e., non-polar hydrocarbon-based oils, composed solely of carbon and hydrogen) and also of the ester type. In particular, they may be selected from volatile hydrocarbon-based oils containing 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and mixtures thereof, and especially:

[0066] - C8-Ci6 branched alkanes such as isoalkanes (also known as (isoparaffins), isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane, and mixtures thereof, and, for example, oils sold under the trade names Isopar or Permethyl,

[0067] - linear alkanes, for example Cn-Cl5 alkanes, alone or in mixtures,

[0068] - C8-Ci6 branched esters, for example isohexyl neopentanoate, and

[0069] - their mixtures.

[0070] Other volatile hydrocarbon oils, such as petroleum distillates, in particular those sold under the name Shell Soit by Shell, may also be used; volatile linear alkanes, such as those described in Cognis patent application DE10 2008 012 457. Volatile silicone oils

[0071] Among volatile silicone oils, one can mention, among others, linear, branched or cyclic silicone oils such as polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) having 3 to 7 silicon atoms, preferably linear or branched polydimethylsiloxanes having 3 to 7 silicon atoms; and also their mixtures.

[0072] Examples of such oils that may be cited include octyl trimethicone, hexyl trimethicone, methyl trimethicone, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, polydimethylsiloxanes, such as those sold under the reference DC 200 (1.5 cSt) or DC 200 (3 cSt) by Dow Corning or KF 96 A from Shin Etsu; alone or in mixtures.

[0073] Polar non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oils

[0074] A "polar hydrocarbon-based oil" means an oil containing mainly hydrogen and carbon atoms and also comprising minus one oxygen atom. More specifically, such an oil comprises one or more functions selected from among the hydroxyl, ester, ether or carboxyl functions, and preferably the hydroxyl, ester or ether functions.

[0075] Examples of non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oils that can be used in the present invention include:

[0076] - triglycerides consisting of glycerol fatty acid esters, in particular of which the fatty acids can have chain lengths ranging from C4 to C36, and in particular from C12 to C36, these oils being possibly linear or branched, and saturated or unsaturated; These oils may include heptanoic or octanoic triglycerides, wheat germ oil, sunflower oil, grapeseed oil, sesame oil, corn oil, apricot oil, castor oil, shea butter, avocado oil, olive oil, soybean oil, sweet almond oil, palm oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, hazelnut oil, macadamia oil, jojoba oil, alfalfa oil, poppy oil, pumpkin oil, squash oil, blackcurrant oil, evening primrose oil, millet oil, barley oil, quinoa oil, rye oil, safflower oil, candlenut oil, passionflower oil or rosehip oil;or, alternatively, caprylic / capric acid triglycerides, for example those sold by the company Stéarinerie Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810®, 812® and 818® by Dynamit Nobel;

[0077] - linear aliphatic hydrocarbon-based esters of formula RCOOR' in which RCOO represents a carboxylic acid residue including from 2 to 40 carbon atoms, and R' represents a hydrocarbon-based chain containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, such as cetostearyl octanoate, isopropyl alcohol esters, such as isopropyl myristate or isopropyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate or isostearate, isostearyl isostearate, octyl stearate, heptanoates, and in particular isostearyl heptanoate, octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or polyalcohols, for example propylene glycol dioctanoate, cetyl octanoate, palmitate of 2-Ethylhexyl, an alkyl benzoate, hexyl laurate, neopentanoic acid esters, for example isodecyl neopentanoate, isotridecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate and 2-octyldodecyl neopentanoate, isononanoic acid esters,for example isononyl isononanoate, isotridecyl isononanoate and octyl isononanoate, oleyl erucate, isocetyl stearate and isostearyl behenate;

[0078] - polyesters obtained by condensation of a fatty acid dimer and / or trimer unsaturated and diol, such as those described in patent application FR 0 853 634, in particular such as dilinoleic acid and 1,4-butanediol. Notable examples include in this regard the polymer sold by Biosynthis under the name Viscoplast 14436H® (INCI name: Dilinoleic Acid / Butanediol Copolymer), or otherwise copolymers of polyols and diacid dimers, and their esters, such as Hailuscent ISDA®;

[0079] - aromatic esters and polyesters such as tridecyl trimellitate, a benzoate of C12-C15 alcohol, 2-phenylethyl ester of benzoic acid and butyl salicylate;

[0080] - diol and monocarboxylic acid dimer esters and polyesters or dicarboxylic, such as diol and fatty acid dimer esters and diol and dicarboxylic acid dimer esters, for example with INCI name: Dimer Dilinoleyl Dimer Dilinoleate, such as Lusplan DD-DA5® and Lusplan DD-DA7® sold by Nippon Fine Chemical and described in US application 2004-175338;

[0081] - fatty alcohols containing 12 to 26 carbon atoms, for example octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol or oleyl alcohol;

[0082] - synthetic ethers containing 10 to 40 carbon atoms, such as the dicaprylyl ether;

[0083] - dialkyl carbonates, the two alkyl chains being identical or different, such as dicaprylyl carbonate sold under the name CETIOL CC® by Cognis;

[0084] - and their mixtures.

[0085] Non-volatile, non-polar hydrocarbon-based oils

[0086] The oil can also be chosen from non-polar, non-volatile, linear or branched hydrocarbon-based oils, saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated.

[0087] Oil or oils based on linear or branched non-polar non-volatile hydrocarbons are more particularly compounds comprising only carbon and hydrogen atoms (in other words, non-volatile hydrocarbon-type oils).

[0088] Said linear or branched nonpolar oils may be of mineral or synthetic origin, for example:

[0089] - liquid paraffin,

[0090] - squalane,

[0091] - isoeicosan,

[0092] - mixtures of saturated linear hydrocarbons, more particularly hydrocarbons in the Ci5-C2s range, such as mixtures whose INCI names are, for example, the following: C15-19 Alkane (INCI name), C18-21 Alkane (INCI name), C21-28 Alkane (INCI name), for example the products Gemseal 40, Gemseal 60 and Gemseal 120 sold by Total, and Emogreen L19 sold by SEPPIC,

[0093] - hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated polybutenes, for example the products of the Indopol range sold by the company INEOS Oligomers,

[0094] - hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated polyisobutenes, for example non- volatiles from the Parleam® range sold by Nippon Oil Fats,

[0095] - hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated polydecenes, for example non- volatiles from the Puresyn® range sold by ExxonMobil),

[0096] - and their mixtures. Non-volatile silicone oils

[0097] The non-volatile oil may also be selected from phenylated or non-phenylated non-volatile silicone oils. More specifically, said silicone oils are free from (poly)alkoxylated groups, in particular (poly)ethoxylated or (poly)propoxylated groups, or (poly)glycerolated groups.

[0098] More particularly, the phenylated or non-phenylated non-volatile silicone oil is selected from dimethicones, trimethylpentaphenyltrisiloxanes, tetramethyltetraphenyltrisiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, trimethylsiloxyphenyl dimethicones, phenyl trimethicone and diphenylsiloxyphenyl trimethicone, and also mixtures thereof.

[0099] These products are notably sold under the names PH-1555 HRI Cosmetic Fluid (trimethyl pentaphenyl trisiloxane) and Dowsil 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid (phenyl trimethicone) by Dow Corning; diphenyl dimethicones such as products KF-54, KF54HV, KF-50-300CS, KF-53 d and KF-50-100CS or Diphenylsiloxy Phenyl Trimethicone KF56 A sold by Shin-Etsu; and Belsil PDM 1000 and Belsil PDM 20 sold by Wacker Chemie (trimethylsiloxy phenyl dimethicone), alone or in mixtures. The values ​​in parentheses represent viscosities at 25 °C (ASTM D-445 standard).

[0100] Preferably, the oils used are liquid esters of aliphatic monoacids or polyacids in Ci-C26, preferably in CiO-C2o, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and of aliphatic monoalcohols or polyalcohols in Ci-C26, preferably in C2-CiO, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, the total number of carbon atoms of the esters being greater than or equal to 10. Preferably, at least one of the alcohol and the acid from which said esters are derived is branched.

[0101] More preferably, the composition according to the present invention comprises at least one oil selected from the C2-Ci0 alkyl myristates.

[0102] Even more preferably, the composition according to the present invention comprises ethylhexyl palmitate.

[0103] Advantageously, the oil is present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount ranging from 50% by weight to 95% by weight, preferably 60% by weight. weight at 94% by weight, more preferably from 70% by weight to 93% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Active cosmetic ingredients

[0104] Optionally, the composition according to the present invention includes one or more cosmetic active ingredients.

[0105] For example, the composition may include one or more agents selected from UV protection agents, antioxidant agents, a skin barrier repair agent, cosmetic dyes, anti-aging agents.

[0106] A person skilled in the art can select the quantity of active cosmetic ingredients according to the end use of the composition according to the present invention. Adjuvants

[0107] The composition according to the present invention may also include an effective amount of other ingredients, such as perfumes, pH modifiers, preservatives and so on.

[0108] A person skilled in the art can choose the quantity of additional adjuvants so as not to have a negative impact on the final use of the composition according to the present invention.

[0109] According to a preferred embodiment, the present invention proposes a composition comprising, relative to the total weight of the composition: a. from 1.5% by weight to 10% by weight of at least one acyl amino acid selected from cocoyl alanine, lauroyl alanine, stearoyl alanine, myristoyl alanine, palmitoyl alanine, oleoyl alanine and mixtures thereof; b. from 3% by weight to 20% by weight of at least one surfactant with at least two saturated fatty acid chains selected from dialkyl sulfosuccinates, each alkyl group containing 8 to 18 carbon atoms, polyglyceryl diesters of a C8-Ci8 fatty acid, and mixtures thereof; and c. from 70% by weight to 93% by weight of at least one oil chosen from among the C2-Ci0 alkyl palmitates.

[0110] Preferably, the composition according to the present invention is anhydrous.

[0111] As used here, the term "anhydrous" means that the composition contains less 2% by weight, preferably less than 1% by weight, more preferably less than 0.5% by weight of water, relative to the total weight of the composition, more preferably containing no water. Where appropriate, small amounts of water may be supplied by ingredients in the composition that contain it in residual quantities but are not deliberately supplied. Preparation and use

[0112] The composition according to the present invention can be prepared by mixing ingredients a) to c), as essential ingredients, together with one or more additional ingredients, as explained above, and by initiating a solution-gel phase transition, for example, by cooling the composition.

[0113] The method and means for mixing the above essential and optional ingredients are not limited. Any conventional method and means can be used to mix the above essential and optional ingredients to prepare the composition according to the present invention.

[0114] The inventors discovered that a surfactant having at least two saturated fatty acid chains can prevent the acyl amino acid as defined in this application from crystallizing into solid particles. The surfactant with at least two saturated fatty acid chains and the acyl amino acid can co-assemble into stable, ordered, planar molecular layers encapsulating an oil.

[0115] The composition according to the present invention is in the form of a gel.

[0116] According to the second aspect, the present invention proposes a non-therapeutic method for the treatment of keratinous materials comprising the application of the composition as described above to the keratinous materials. EXAMPLES

[0117] The following examples are given by way of non-limiting illustrations of the present invention.

[0118] The main raw materials used, their trade names and suppliers are listed in Table 1.

[0119] [Tables 1] INCI name Trade name Supplier Lauroyl alanine AMINOSURFACT LA SUZHOU WEIMEI Polyglyceryl-6 dicaprate (Polyglyceryl-6 dicaprate) SUNSOFT Q-102H-C(MB) TAIYO KAGAKU Polyglyceryl-6 dioleate (Polyglyceryl-6 dioleate) SUNSOFT Q-172H-C(MB) TAIYO KAGAKU Polyglyceryl-6 caprylate (Polyglyceryl-6 caprylate) SUNSOFT Q-8H-C(MB) TAIYO KAGAKU Diethylhexyl sodium sulfosu ccinate (Diethylhexyl sulfosu ccinate sodium) AEROSOL OT 100% SURF ACTANT CYTEC Ethylhexyl palmitate (Ethy lhexyl palmitate) CEGESOFT C 24 BASF

[0120] Inventive Examples 1-2 and Comparative Examples 1-3

[0121] Compositions of inventive examples (El) 1-2 and comparative examples (EC) 1-3 were prepared on the basis of the quantities given in Table 2. The quantities are given as % by weight of each component relative to the total weight of each composition.

[0122] [Tables2] Components ELI EL2 EC.1 EC.2 EC.3 Lauroyl alanine 5 5 5 5 5 Polyglyceryl-6 dicaprate 10 / / / / Diethylhexyl sodium sulfosuccinate / 5 / / / Polyglyceryl-6 diodeate / / / 10 / Polyglyceryl-6 caprylate / / / / 10 Ethylhexyl palmitate QS100 QS100 QS100 QS100 QS100

[0123] The compositions of examples 1 and 2 of the invention represent compositions according to the present invention.

[0124] The composition of comparative example 1 does not include at least one surfactant with at least two saturated fatty chains.

[0125] The composition of comparative example 2 includes polyglyceryl-6-dioleate instead of at least one surfactant with at least two saturated fatty chains.

[0126] The composition of comparative example 3 includes polyglyceryl-6 caprylate instead of at least one surfactant with at least two saturated fatty chains.

[0127] Preparation procedure:

[0128] The above compositions were prepared as follows: 1. Addition of lauroyl alanine, selected surfactant (polyglyceryl-6 dicaprate, sodium diethylhexyl sulfosuccinate, polyglyceryl-6 dioleate or polyglyceryl-6 caprylate) and ethylhexyl palmitate to a beaker with stirring at 75 °C for 10 minutes to obtain a homogeneous and clear liquid. 2. then cool the homogeneous and clear liquid to room temperature (approximately 25 °C) without stirring.

[0129] Evaluation:

[0130] The compositions of inventive examples 1-2 and comparative examples 1-3 were evaluated in terms of gelation and stability.

[0131] Gelation

[0132] An inverted tube test was used to qualitatively evaluate the gelling of the compositions of inventive examples 1-2 and comparative examples 1-3. In this test, a test tube containing a sample to be evaluated was inverted. It was then observed whether the sample sank under its own weight. It was thought that a gel sample with a yield strength would not sink, whereas a viscous but inelastic soil sample would exhibit appreciable flow.

[0133] Stability

[0134] The stability of the compositions of inventive examples 1-2 and comparative examples 1-3 was evaluated by storing the compositions at room temperature (approximately 25°C) for one month. At the end of the storage period, the physical appearance (oil leakage or not, color), odor, phase separation, and hardness were checked manually. If there was no perceptible change in physical appearance, odor, or hardness, and no phase separation, then the composition under test was considered stable; otherwise, the composition under test was considered unstable.

[0135] The results for gelation and stability of the compositions of inventive examples 1-2 and comparative examples 1-3 have been summarized in Table 3.

[0136] [Tables3] Properties ELI EL2 EC.1 EC.2 EC.3 Gelation Yes Yes Yes Yes No Stability Stable Stable Unstable (phase separation)

[0137] It can be seen from Table 3 that the compositions of inventive examples 1-2 are stable gels.

Claims

Demands

1. Composition comprising: a) at least one acyl amino acid of formula (I): H o ® R? ti H R2 . x QH 0 RI in which, - RI represents hydrogen, -(CH2)m-NH2, -(CH2)n-COOH, -(CH 2)P-OH, or a linear or branched Ci-C20 alkyl, m, n and p are independently an integer from 0-10; - R2 represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based group, preferably selected from an alkyl or alkenyl; b) at least one surfactant with at least two saturated fatty chains; and c) at least one oil.

2. Composition according to claim 1, wherein in formula (I), RI represents hydrogen, -(CH2)m-NH2, -(CH2)n-COOH, -(CH2)P-OH, a linear CrC6 alkyl, m, n and p are independently an integer from 1-6, R2 represents a linear or branched C7-C2i alkyl or alkenyl; Preferably, RI represents hydrogen, -(CH2)m-NH2, -(CH2)n-COOH, -(CH2)P-OH, a linear C1-C4 alkyl, where m, n, and p are independently integers from 1 to 4. R2 represents a linear or branched C7-C19 alkyl or alkenyl. More preferably, RI represents hydrogen, -(CH2)m-NH2, -(CH2)n-COOH, -(CH2)P-OH, a linear C1-C4 alkyl, where m, n, and p are independently integers from 2 to 4. R2 represents a linear or branched C7-C17 alkyl or alkenyl. Even more preferably, RI represents hydrogen, -(CH2)4-NH2, -(CH2)2-COOH, -(CH2)4-OH, or -CH3. R2 represents an alkyl or alkenyl. C7-C[7 linear or branched.

3. Composition according to claim 1, wherein the acyl amino acid is selected from cocoyl alanine, lauroyl alanine, stearoyl alanine, myristoyl alanine, palmitoyl alanine, oleoyl alanine and their mixtures.

4. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the surfactant with at least two saturated fatty chains is selected from anionic surfactants, cationic surfactants and nonionic surfactants, with at least two C5.22 alkyl chains.

5. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the surfactant with at least two saturated fatty chains is selected from dialkyl sulfosuccinates with each alkyl containing from 5 to 22 carbon atoms, (poly)glyceryl disesters of a C5-C22 fatty acid, and mixtures thereof.

6. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the surfactant with at least two saturated fatty chains is selected from dialkyl sulfosuccinates with each alkyl containing 8 to 18 carbon atoms, polyglyceryl diesters of a C8-C[8] fatty acid with 2 to 10 glycerol motifs, and mixtures thereof.

7. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, wherein the oil is selected from liquid esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C1-C26, preferably CiO-C2O, aliphatic mono- or poly-acids and of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched Ci-C26, preferably C2-CiO, aliphatic mono- or poly-alcohols, the total number of carbon atoms of the esters being greater than or equal to 10.

8. Composition according to claim 1, comprising, relative to the total weight of the composition: a) 1.5% to 10% by weight of at least one amino acyl acid selected from cocoyl alanine, lauroyl alanine, stearoyl alanine, myristoyl alanine, palmitoyl alanine, oleoyl alanine and mixtures thereof; b) 3% to 20% by weight of at least one surfactant with at least two saturated fatty acid chains selected from dialkyl sulfosuccinates with each alkyl containing 8 to 18 carbon atoms, polyglyceryl diesters of a C8-Ci8 fatty acid, and mixtures thereof; and

9.

10. c) from 70% by weight to 93% by weight of at least one oil selected from among the C2-Ci0 alkyl palmitates. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8, which is anhydrous. Non-therapeutic method for the treatment of keratinous materials, comprising the application of a composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 9 on said keratinous materials.