CLEANSING AND / OR CARE COMPOSITION FOR KERATINOUS MATERIALS

Abstract

CLEANSING AND / OR CARE COMPOSITION FOR KERATINOUS MATERIALS The present invention relates to a composition, preferably for cleaning and / or caring for keratinous materials, comprising: at least one acyl amino acid of formula (I): (I) in which, - R1 represents hydrogen, -(CH2)m-NH2, -(CH2)n-COOH, -(CH2)p-OH, or a linear or branched C1-C20 alkyl, m, n and p are independently an integer from 0-10; - R2 represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based group, preferably selected from an alkyl or alkenyl, b) at least one amino acid-based gelling agent other than the acyl amino acid of formula (I); and c) at least one oil. The present invention also relates to a method for cleaning and / or caring for keratinous materials, comprising applying the composition according to the present invention to the keratinous materials. Figure for the abstract: none

Description

Title of the invention: CLEANSING AND / OR CARE COMPOSITION FOR KERATINOUS MATERIALS technical field

[0001] The present invention relates to a cleansing and / or conditioning composition for keratinous materials, in particular human keratinous materials such as skin and hair. The present invention also relates to a cosmetic method for cleansing and / or conditioning keratinous materials. STATE OF THE ART

[0002] The development of cosmetic products is ongoing. Removing makeup from the skin is crucial for the care of keratinous materials, particularly those of the skin, face, eyelids, and lips, but also keratinous fibers such as eyelashes. It must be as effective as possible because oily residues, such as excess sebum, residues from daily cosmetics and makeup products, especially waterproof ones, accumulate particularly in skin folds and on the skin's surface, and can clog pores, thus causing breakouts.

[0003] It is desirable that the commercial products be stable over time, for example, that they can remain stable for at least one month.

[0004] It is also desired that keratinous material cleaning products can effectively remove makeup from keratinous materials so as to deliver a pleasant user experience.

[0005] Consequently, there is still a need to develop a composition for cleaning keratinous materials, which is stable over time and / or can effectively remove makeup from keratinous materials. Summary of the invention

[0006] An object of the present invention is therefore to develop a composition for cleaning keratinous materials, which is stable over time and / or can effectively remove makeup from keratinous materials.

[0007] Thus, according to a first aspect, the present invention proposes a composition, preferably for cleaning and / or caring for keratinous materials, comprising:

[0008] a) at least one acyl amino acid of formula (I):

[0009] [Chem.l] H o R2 OH OR RI (I)

[0010] in which,

[0011] - RI represents hydrogen, -(CH2)m-NH2, -(CH2)n-COOH, -(CH2)P-OH, or an alkyl in linear or branched CrC2o, m, n and p are independently an integer from 0-10;

[0012] - R2 represents a linear or branched, saturated hydrocarbon-based group or unsaturated, preferably chosen from an alkyl or alkenyl;

[0013] b) at least one amino acid-based gelling agent other than acyl amino acid of formula (I); and

[0014] c) at least one oil.

[0015] According to a second aspect, the present invention proposes a method for cleaning and / or caring for keratinous materials comprising the application of the composition as described above to the keratinous materials.

[0016] The inventors have discovered that the composition according to the present invention is stable over time (for example, at least one month), and in some preferred embodiments, can even effectively remove keratinous materials.

[0017] Other subjects, features, aspects, and advantages of the present invention will be presented in the following description and will be partly evident from the description or may be learned through practice of the present invention. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0018] Unless otherwise defined, all technical and scientific terms used herein have the same meaning as that commonly understood by a person skilled in the art of the present invention. Where the definition of a term in this description conflicts with the meaning commonly understood by a person skilled in the art of the present invention, the definition described herein shall apply.

[0019] As used herein, unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a range of values ​​are included in that range, in particular in the expressions "between... and..." and "from... to...".

[0020] Furthermore, the expression "at least one" used in this description is equivalent to the expression "one or more".

[0021] Throughout this application, the term "including" shall be interpreted as encompassing all the features specifically mentioned as well as optional, additional, unspecified features. As used here, the use of the term "including" also discloses the embodiment in which no features other than those specifically mentioned are present (i.e., *consisting of").

[0022] Unless otherwise specified, all numerical values ​​expressing a quantity of ingredients and the like used in the description and claims shall be understood as modified by the term "approximately". Consequently, unless otherwise indicated, the numerical values ​​and parameters described herein are approximate values ​​which, if necessary, may be changed according to the desired purpose.

[0023] As used herein, the expression "keratinous materials" includes human keratinous materials such as hair and skin.

[0024] In the present invention, all percentages refer, unless otherwise specified, to a percentage by weight.

[0025] For the purposes of the present invention, and unless otherwise indicated:

[0026] - an "alkyl" radical designates a linear or branched saturated radical containing, by for example, from 1 to 30 carbon atoms;

[0027] - an "alkenyl" radical designates a linear or branched hydrocarbon-based group ethylenically unsaturated, for example, from 1 to 30 carbon atoms. Acyl amino acids

[0028] According to the first aspect, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one acyl amino acid of formula (I):

[0029] [Chem.2] HO QH OR RI (I)

[0030] in which,

[0031] - RI represents hydrogen, -(CH2)m-NH2, -(CH2)n-COOH, -(CH2)P-OH, or an alkyl in linear or branched CrC2o, m, n and p are independently an integer from 0-10;

[0032] - R2 represents a linear or branched, saturated hydrocarbon-based group or unsaturated, preferably chosen from an alkyl or alkenyl.

[0033] Preferably, in formula (I), RI represents hydrogen, -(CH2)m-NH2, -(CH2)n-COOH, -(CH2)P-OH, a linear alkyl in C1-C6, m, n and p are independently a an integer from 1-6, R2 represents a linear or branched C7-C2i alkyl or alkenyl

[0034] More preferably, in formula (I), RI represents hydrogen, -(CH2)m-NH2, -(CH2)n-COOH, -(CH2)P-OH, a linear C1-C4 alkyl, m, n and p are independently an integer from 1-4, R2 represents a linear or branched C7-C19 alkyl or alkenyl.

[0035] Even more preferably, in formula (I), RI represents hydrogen, -(CH2)m-NH2, -(CH2)n-COOH, -(CH2)P-OH, a linear alkyl in Ci-C4, m, n and p are independently an integer from 2-4, R2 represents a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl in C7-Ci7.

[0036] Furthermore, more preferably, in formula (I), RI represents hydrogen, -(CH2)4-NH2 -(CH2)2-COOH, -(CH2)4-OH, or -CH3, R2 represents a linear or branched C7 alkyl or alkenyl -Ci7.

[0037] More preferably, the acyl amino acid is chosen from cocoyl glutamic acid, lauroyl glutamic acid, stearoyl glutamic acid, myristoyl glutamic acid, palmitoyl glutamic acid, oleoyl glutamic acid, cocoyl alanine, lauroyl alanine, stearoyl alanine, myristoyl alanine, palmitoyl alanine, oleoyl alanine, cocoyl glycine, lauroyl glycine, stearoyl glycine, myristoyl glycine, palmitoyl glycine, oleoyl glycine, cocoyl lysine, lauroyl lysine, stearoyl lysine, myristoyl lysine, palmitoyl lysine, oleyl lysine and mixtures thereof.

[0038] More preferably still, the acyl amino acid is chosen from cocoyl alanine, lauroyl alanine, stearoyl alanine, myristoyl alanine, palmitoyl alanine, oleoyl alanine, and mixtures thereof.

[0039] Most preferably, the composition according to the present invention comprises lauroyl alanine.

[0040] Advantageously, acyl amino acid is present in the composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.1% by weight to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.5% by weight to 25% by weight, more preferably from 1% by weight to 20% by weight, even more preferably from 1.5% by weight to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Amino acid-based gelling agents

[0041] According to the first aspect, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one gelling agent based on an amino acid other than acyl amino acid of formula (I).

[0042] Preferably, the gelling agent based on an amino acid other than acyl amino acid of formula (I) is lipophilic.

[0043] Preferably, the gelling agent based on an amino acid other than acyl amino acid of formula (I) is chosen from N-lauroylglutamic acid diethylamide , N-lauroylglutamic acid dibutylamide (dibutyl lauroyl glutamide), N-lauroylglutamic acid dihexylamide, N-lauroylglutamic acid dioctylamide, N-lauroylglutamic acid didecylamide, N-lauroylglutamic acid didodecylamide, N-lauroylglutamic acid ditetradecylamide, N-lauroylglutamic acid dihexadecylamide, N-lauroylglutamic acid distearylamide, N-stearoylglutamic acid dibutylamide, N-stearoylglutamic acid dihexylamide, N-stearoylglutamic acid dihexylamide (dibutyl ethylhexanoyl glutamide), N-stearoylglutamic acid diheptylamide, dioctylamide n-stearoylglutamic acid, n-stearoylglutamic acid didecylamide, n-stearoylglutamic acid didodecylamide, n-stearoylglutamic acid dioctylamide, n-stearoylglutylamide dihexadecylamide, n-stearoylglutylamide, n-stearoylglutylamide, n-stearoylglutamic acid distearylamide, and mixtures thereof.

[0044] More preferably, the gelling agent based on an amino acid other than acyl amino acid of formula (I) is chosen from dibutyl lauroyl glutamide, dibutyl ethylhexanoyl glutamide, and mixtures thereof.

[0045] Even more preferably, the composition according to the present invention comprises dibutyl lauroyl glutamide.

[0046] Advantageously, at least one amino acid-based gelling agent other than acyl amino acid of formula (I) is present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.1% by weight to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.2% by weight to 8% by weight, more preferably from 0.3% by weight to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0047] Advantageously, the weight ratio between the at least one acyl amino acid of formula (I) and the at least one gelling agent based on an amino acid other than the acyl amino acid of formula (I) is 8 to 40, preferably 10 to 30, more preferably 12 to 24. Oils

[0048] According to the first aspect, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one oil.

[0049] The oil or oils may be chosen from hydrocarbon-based oils, volatile or non-volatile, polar or non-polar, silicone oils, and mixtures thereof.

[0050] The term "oil" refers to a fatty substance that is liquid at room temperature (25 °C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg, or 1.013 x 10⁵ Pa). The oil may be volatile or non-volatile.

[0051] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "silicone oil" means an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and in particular at least one Si-O group, and more particularly an organopolysiloxane.

[0052] The expression "hydrocarbon-based oil" refers to an oil containing primarily carbon and hydrogen atoms and optionally one or more functional groups selected from among the hydroxyl, ester, ether, and carboxyl groups. These oils are therefore different from silicone oils.

[0053] For the purposes of the invention, the term "volatile oil" refers to any oil that is capable of evaporating upon contact with the skin in less than one hour, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. Volatile oil is a volatile cosmetic compound that is liquid at room temperature, having in particular a non-zero vapor pressure at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, having in particular a vapor pressure ranging from 2.66 Pa to 40,000 Pa, in particular from 2.66 Pa to 13,000 Pa, and more particularly from 2.66 Pa to 1,300 Pa.

[0054] The term "non-volatile oil" refers to an oil that remains on the skin at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure for at least several hours and that has, in particular, a vapor pressure of less than 2.66 Pa, preferably less than 0.13 Pa. By way of example, the vapor pressure can be measured by the static method or by the isothermal thermogravimetric effusion method, depending on the vapor pressure (OECD Standard 104). Volatile hydrocarbon-based oils

[0055] Among volatile hydrocarbon-based oils, special mention may be made of those selected from hydrocarbon-type oils (i.e., non-polar hydrocarbon-based oils, consisting solely of carbon and hydrogen) and also ester-type oils. In particular, they may be selected from volatile hydrocarbon-based oils containing 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and mixtures thereof, and especially:

[0056] - C8-Ci6 branched alkanes such as isoalkanes (also known as isoparaffins), isododecane, isodecane and isohexadecane, and mixtures thereof, and, for example, oils sold under the trade names Isopar or Permethyl,

[0057] - linear alkanes, for example Cn-Ci5 alkanes, alone or in mixtures,

[0058] - C8-Ci6 branched esters, for example isohexyl neopentanoate, and

[0059] - their mixtures.

[0060] Other volatile hydrocarbon-based oils, such as petroleum distillates, in particular those sold under the name Shell Soit by Shell, may also be used; volatile linear alkanes, such as those described in Cognis patent application DE10 2008 012 457. Volatile silicone oils

[0061] Among volatile silicone oils, one can mention, among others, linear, branched or cyclic silicone oils such as polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) having 3 to 7 silicon atoms, preferably linear or branched polydimethylsiloxanes having 3 to 7 silicon atoms; and also their mixtures.

[0062] Examples of such oils that may be cited include octyl trimethicone, hexyl trimethicone, methyl trimethicone, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, polydimethylsiloxanes, such as those sold under the reference DC 200 (1.5 cSt) or DC 200 (3 cSt) by Dow Corning or KF 96 A from Shin Etsu; alone or in mixtures.

[0063] Polar non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oils

[0064] A "polar hydrocarbon-based oil" means an oil containing mainly hydrogen and carbon atoms and also comprising at least one oxygen atom. More particularly, such an oil comprises one or more functions selected from among the hydroxyl, ester, ether or carboxyl functions, and preferably the hydroxyl, ester or ether functions.

[0065] Examples of non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oils that can be used in the present invention include:

[0066] - triglycerides consisting of glycerol fatty acid esters, in particular of which fatty acids can have chain lengths ranging from C4 to C36, and in particular from C18 to C36, these oils being possibly linear or branched, and saturated or unsaturated; These oils may include heptanoic or octanoic triglycerides, wheat germ oil, sunflower oil, grapeseed oil, sesame oil, corn oil, apricot oil, castor oil, shea butter, avocado oil, olive oil, soybean oil, sweet almond oil, palm oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, hazelnut oil, macadamia oil, jojoba oil, alfalfa oil, poppy oil, pumpkin oil, squash oil, blackcurrant oil, evening primrose oil, millet oil, barley oil, quinoa oil, rye oil, safflower oil, candlenut oil, passionflower oil or rosehip oil;or, alternatively, caprylic / capric acid triglycerides, for example those sold by Stéarinerie Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810®, 812® and 818® by Dynamit Nobel;

[0067] - hydrocarbon-based esters of formula RCOOR' in which RCOO represents a carboxylic acid residue comprising 2 to 40 carbon atoms, and R' represents a hydrocarbon-based chain containing 1 to 40 carbon atoms, such as cetostearyl octanoate, isopropyl alcohol esters, such that isopropyl myristate or isopropyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate or isostearate, isostearyl isostearate, octyl stearate, heptanoates, and in particular isostearyl heptanoate, octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or polyalcohols, for example propylene glycol dioctanoate, cetyl octanoate, tridecyl octanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, an alkyl benzoate, hexyl laurate, neopentanoic acid esters, for example isodecyl neopentanoate, isotridecyl neopentanoate, neopentane isostearyl and 2-octyldodecyl neopentanoate, isononanoic acid esters, for example isononyl isononanoate, isotridecyl isononanoate and octyl isononanoate, oleyl erucate, isocetyl stearate, and isostearyl behenate;

[0068] - polyesters obtained by condensation of a fatty acid dimer and / or trimer unsaturated and diol, such as those described in patent application FR 0 853 634, in particular such as dilinoleic acid and 1,4-butanediol. In this regard, we can cite in particular the polymer sold by Biosynthis under the name Viscoplast 14436H® (INCI name: Dilinoleic Acid / Butanediol Copolymer), or alternatively copolymers of polyols and diacid dimers, and their esters, such as Hailuscent ISDA®;

[0069] - aromatic esters and polyesters such as tridecyl trimellitate, a benzoate of C12-C15 alcohol, 2-phenylethyl ester of benzoic acid and butyl salicylate;

[0070] - diol and monocarboxylic acid dimer esters and polyesters or dicarboxylic, such as diol and fatty acid dimer esters and diol and dicarboxylic acid dimer esters, for example with INCI name: Dimer Dilinoleyl Dimer Dilinoleate, such as Lusplan DD-DA5® and Lusplan DD-DA7® sold by Nippon Fine Chemical and described in US application 2004-175338;

[0071] - fatty alcohols containing 12 to 26 carbon atoms, for example octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol and oleyl alcohol;

[0072] - synthetic ethers containing 10 to 40 carbon atoms, such as the dicaprylyl ether;

[0073] - dialkyl carbonates, the two alkyl chains being possibly identical or different, such as dicaprylyl carbonate sold under the name CETIOL CC® by Cognis;

[0074] - and their mixtures.

[0075] Non-volatile, non-polar hydrocarbon-based oils

[0076] The oil can also be chosen from non-polar, non-volatile, linear or branched hydrocarbon-based oils, saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated.

[0077] Oil or oils based on linear or branched non-polar non-volatile hydrocarbons are more particularly compounds comprising only carbon and hydrogen atoms (in other words, non-volatile hydrocarbon-type oils).

[0078] Said linear or branched nonpolar oils may be of mineral or synthetic origin, for example:

[0079] - liquid paraffin,

[0080] - squalane,

[0081] - isoeicosan,

[0082] - saturated linear hydrocarbon mixtures, more particularly hydrocarbons in the Ci5-C28 range, such as mixtures whose INCI names are, for example, the following: C15-C19 Alkane (INCI name), Ci8-C2i Alkane (INCI name), C2i-C28 Alkane (INCI name), for example the products Gemseal 40, Gemseal 60 and Gemseal 120 sold by Total, and Emogreen L19 sold by SEPPIC,

[0083] - hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated polybutenes, for example products of the Indopol range sold by INEOS Oligomers,

[0084] - hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated polyisobutenes, for example non- volatiles from the Parleam® range sold by Nippon Oil Fats,

[0085] - hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated polydecenes, for example non- volatiles from the Puresyn® range sold by ExxonMobil),

[0086] - and their mixtures. Non-volatile silicone oils

[0087] The non-volatile oil may also be selected from phenylated or non-phenylated non-volatile silicone oils. More specifically, said silicone oils are free from (poly)alkoxylated groups, in particular (poly)ethoxylated or (poly)propoxylated groups, or (poly)glycerolated groups.

[0088] More particularly, the non-volatile phenylated or non-phenylated silicone oil is selected from dimethicones, trimethylpentaphenyltrisiloxanes, tetramethyltetraphenyltrisiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, trimethylsiloxyphenyl dimethicones, phenyl trimethicone and diphenylsiloxyphenyl trimethicone, and also mixtures thereof.

[0089] These products are notably sold under the names PH-1555 HRI Cosmetic Fluid (trimethyl pentaphenyl trisiloxane) and Dowsil 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid (phenyl trimethicone) by Dow Corning; diphenyl dimethicones such as KF- products 54, KF54HV, KF-50-300CS, KF-53 d and KF-50-100CS or Diphenylsiloxy Phenyl Trimethicone KF56 A sold by Shin-Etsu; the products Belsil PDM 1000 and Belsil PDM 20 sold by Wacker Chemie (trimethylsiloxy phenyl dimethicone), alone or in mixtures. The values ​​in parentheses represent viscosities at 25 °C (ASTM D-445 standard).

[0090] Preferably, the oils used are preferably liquid esters of aliphatic monoacids or polyacids in Ci-C26, preferably in CiO-C2o, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and of aliphatic monoalcohols or polyalcohols in CrC26, preferably in C2-CiO, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, the total number of carbon atoms of the esters being greater than or equal to 10. Preferably, at least one of the alcohol and the acid from which said esters are derived is branched.

[0091] More preferably, the composition according to the present invention comprises at least one oil selected from among the C2-Ci0 alkyl palmitates.

[0092] Even more preferably, the composition according to the present invention comprises ethylhexyl palmitate.

[0093] Advantageously, the oil is present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount ranging from 50% by weight to 95% by weight, preferably from 60% by weight to 94% by weight, more preferably from 70% by weight to 93% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Active cosmetic ingredients

[0094] Optionally, the composition includes cosmetic active ingredients according to the present invention.

[0095] For example, the composition may include one or more agents selected from UV protection agents, antioxidant agents, a skin barrier repair agent, cosmetic dyes, anti-aging agents.

[0096] A person skilled in the art can select the quantity of cosmetic active ingredients according to the end use of the composition according to the present invention. Adjuvants

[0097] The composition according to the present invention may also include an effective amount of other ingredients, such as perfumes, pH modifiers, chelators, pigments, neutralizing agents, preservatives, and so on.

[0098] A person skilled in the art can choose the quantity of additional adjuvants so as not to have a negative impact on the final use of the composition according to the present invention.

[0099] According to a preferred embodiment, the present invention provides a cleansing and / or care composition for keratinous materials comprising, relative to the total weight of the composition: a. from 1.5% by weight to 20% by weight of at least one acyl amino acid selected from cocoyl alanine, lauroyl alanine, stearoyl alanine, myristoyl alanine, palmitoyl alanine, oleoyl alanine, and mixtures thereof; b. 0.3% to 5% by weight of at least one amino acid-based gelling agent selected from dibutyl lauroyl glutamide, dibutyl ethyl hexanoyl glutamide, and mixtures thereof; and c. from 70% by weight to 93% by weight of at least one oil chosen from among the C2-CiO alkyl palmitates.

[0100] Preferably, the composition according to the present invention is anhydrous.

[0101] As used here, the term "anhydrous" means that the composition contains less than 2% by weight, and preferably less than 1% by weight, of water, more preferably less than 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, more preferably containing no water. Where appropriate, small amounts of water may be supplied by ingredients in the composition that contain it in residual quantities but are not deliberately supplied. Preparation and use

[0102] The composition according to the present invention can be prepared by mixing the ingredients a) to c), as essential ingredients, together with one or more additional ingredients, as explained above.

[0103] The method and means for mixing the essential and optional ingredients above are not limited. Any conventional method and means can be used to mix the essential and optional ingredients above in order to prepare the composition according to the present invention.

[0104] Preferably, the composition according to the present invention is in gel form.

[0105] According to the second aspect, the present invention proposes a cosmetic method for cleansing and / or caring for keratinous materials, comprising applying the composition as described above to the keratinous materials. EXAMPLES

[0106] The following examples are given by way of non-limiting illustrations of the present invention.

[0107] The main raw materials used, their trade names and suppliers are listed in Table 1.

[0108] [Tables] INCI Name Trade Name Supplier Lauroyl alanine AMINOSURFACT LA SUZHOU WEIMEI Dibutyl lauroyl glutamide Gelatinization agent GP-1 Ajinomoto Ethylhexyl palmitate (Et ethylhexyl palmitate) CEGESOFT C 24 BASF Arginine L-ARGININE Ajinomoto Red 7 UNIPURE RED LC 3079 OR SENSIENT

[0109] Inventive Examples 1-3 and Comparative Examples 1-2

[0110] The compositions of invention examples (El) 1-3 and comparative examples (EC) 1-2 were prepared on the basis of the quantities of components given in Table 2. The quantities are given as % by weight of each component relative to the total weight of each composition. [YES] [Tables 2] Component ELI EL2 EI.3 EC.1 EC.2 Lauroyl alanine 8 10 8 8.5 / Dibutyl lauroyl glutamide 0.5 0.5 0.5 / 8.5 Ethylhexyl palmitate 91.5 83.1 88.5 91.5 91.5 Arginine / 6.4 / / / Red 7 / / 3 / /

[0112] The compositions of inventive examples 1 to 3 represent the compositions according to the present invention.

[0113] The composition of comparative example 1 does not include at least one amino acid-based gelling agent other than acyl amino acid of formula (I).

[0114] The composition of comparative example 2 does not include anything other than the acyl amino acid of formula (I).

[0115] Preparation procedure:

[0116] The above compositions were prepared as follows: 1. Addition of lauroyl alanine (if applicable) and dibutyl lauroyl glutamide (if applicable) to ethylhexyl palmitate in a beaker with stirring at 75 °C or above, based on the process temperature determined below, for 30 minutes until a homogeneous and clear liquid is obtained. 2. Add arginine or Red 7 to the oven at 70°C, stirring if necessary to obtain a homogeneous mixture. 3. then cool the homogeneous mixture to room temperature (approximately 25 °C) without stirring.

[0117] Evaluation:

[0118] The compositions of inventive examples 1-3 and comparative examples 1-2 were evaluated in terms of stability and makeup removal capacity. Stability

[0119] The stability of the compositions of inventive examples 1-3 and comparative examples 1-2 was evaluated by storing them at room temperature (approximately 25 °C) for 1 month.

[0120] At the end of storage, the physical appearance (oil leakage or not, color) and odor, the microstructure under optical microscopy and the hardness by hand were checked.

[0121] If all the aspects mentioned above remain the same, then the composition under test was considered stable, otherwise the composition under test was considered unstable.

[0122] The stability results of the compositions of inventive examples 1-3 and comparative examples 1-2 have been summarized in Table 3.

[0123] [Tables3] Element 1 EI.2 EI.3 EC.1 EC.2 Stability Stable Stable Stable Unstable

[0124] It can be seen from Table 3 that the compositions of inventive examples 1-3 are stable. Makeup removal capacity

[0125] The makeup removal ability of the compositions of inventive examples 1-2 and comparative example 1 was evaluated by 5 volunteers.

[0126] Specifically, the evaluation was carried out according to the following steps.

[0127] Step 1: A waterproof mascara (Maybelline Sky High by L'Oréal) was applied to the forearm of a volunteer: 4 cm line for each trial, and air-dried for 60 minutes.

[0128] Step 2: 1 g of the test sample was applied to the forearm, gently massaged 30 times to melt the makeup products.

[0129] Step 3: Water was applied to the forearm to rinse thoroughly.

[0130] Step 4: Makeup removal capacity was evaluated.

[0131] Makeup removal capacity was evaluated by comparing the amount of makeup remaining on the forearm after rinsing with the amount initially applied. A score from 1 to 5 was assigned to quantitatively represent the makeup removal capacity of an oleogel sample. The scoring system is indicated below.

[0132] 5: Almost all makeup removed (>90% of makeup products can (to be removed after rinsing)

[0133] 4: Most of the makeup removed, but some makeup remains (70-90%) (Makeup products can be removed after rinsing)

[0134] 3: Some makeup removed (more than 30% and less than 70% of the products) (Makeup can be removed after rinsing)

[0135] 2: Small part of the makeup removed (5 to 30% of makeup products may (to be removed after rinsing)

[0136] 1: Virtually no makeup removed (< 5% of makeup products) can be removed after rinsing).

[0137] An average score was calculated based on the results of the 5 volunteers.

[0138] The higher the score value, the higher the makeup removal capacity.

[0139] The results of the makeup removal capacity of the compositions of inventive examples (El) 1-2 and comparative example (EC) 1 have been summarized in Table 4.

[0140] [Tables4] Properties E.L1 EI2 ECl Makeup removal capacity 5.0 4.5 4.0

[0141] As can be seen from Table 5, the compositions of inventive examples 1-2 can remove makeup products more effectively than the composition of comparative example 1.

Claims

Demands

1. Composition, preferably for cleansing and / or conditioning keratinous materials, comprising: a. at least one acyl amino acid of formula (I): [Chem. 3] HO R2X / Nx He T OR RI (I) in which, - RI represents hydrogen, -(CH2)m-NH2, -(CH2)n-COOH, -(CH2)P-OH, or an alkyl in linear or branched Ci-C20, m, n and p are independently an integer from 0-10; - R2 represents a linear or branched hydrocarbon-based group, saturated or unsaturated, preferably selected from an alkyl or alkenyl; b) at least one amino acid-based gelling agent other than the acyl amino acid of formula (I); and c) at least one oil.

2. Composition according to claim 1, wherein, in formula (I), RI represents hydrogen, -(CH2)m-NH2, -(CH2)n-COOH, -(CH2)P-OH, a linear Ci-C6 alkyl, m, n and p are independently an integer from 1-6, R2 represents a linear or branched C7-C2i alkyl or alkenyl; Preferably, RI represents hydrogen, -(CH2)m-NH2, -(CH2)n-COOH, -(CH2)p-OH, a linear CrC4 alkyl, m, n and p are independently integers from 1-4, R2 represents a linear or branched C7-Ci9 alkyl or alkenyl, more preferably, RI represents hydrogen, -(CH2)m-NH2 , -(CH2)n-COOH, -(CH2)P-OH, a linear Ci-C4 alkyl, m, n and p are independently an integer from 2-4, R2 represents a linear or branched C7-C[7] alkyl or alkenyl, even more preferably, RI represents hydrogen, -(CH2)4-NH2, -(CH2)2-COOH, -(CH2)4-OH or -CH3, R2 represents a linear or branched C7-C[7] alkyl or alkenyl.

3. Composition according to claim 1, wherein the acyl amino acid of formula (I) is selected from cocoyl alanine, lauroyl alanine, stearoyl alanine, myristoyl alanine, palmitoyl alanine, oleoyl alanine, and mixtures thereof.

4. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the amino acid-based gelling agent other than acyl amino acid of formula (I) is selected from N-lauroylglutamic acid diethylamide, N-lauroylglutamic acid dibutylamide, N-lauroylglutamic acid dihexylamide, N-lauroylglutamic acid dioctylamide, N-lauroylglutamic acid didecylamide, N-lauroylglutamic acid didodecylamide, N-lauroylglutamic acid ditetradecylamide, N-lauroylglutamic acid dihexadecylamide, N-lauroylglutamic acid distearylamide, N-stearoylglutamic acid dibutylamide, N-stearoylglutamic acid dihexylamide N-stearoylglutamic acid, N-stearoylglutamic acid dihexylamide, N-stearoylglutamic acid diheptylamide, N-stearoylglutamic acid dioctylamide, N-stearoylglutamic acid didecylamide, N-stearoylglutamic acid didodecylamide, N-stearoylglutamic acid dioctylamide,N-stearoylglutamic acid dihexadecylamide, N-stearoylglutylamide, N-stearoylglutamic acid distearylamide, and mixtures thereof.

5. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the amino acid-based gelling agent other than acyl amino acid of formula (I) is selected from dibutyl lauroyl glutamide, dibutyl ethylhexanoyl glutamide, and mixtures thereof.

6. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the weight ratio between the at least one acyl amino acid of formula (I) and the at least one gelling agent based on an amino acid other than the acyl amino acid of formula (I) is 8 to 40, preferably 10 to 30, more preferably 12 to 24.

7. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, wherein the oil is selected from liquid esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, C1-C26, preferably C1-C2O, aliphatic mono- or poly-acids and of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, C1-C26, preferably C2-C1O, aliphatic mono- or poly-alcohols, the total number of carbon atoms of the esters being greater than or equal to 10.

8. Composition according to claim 1, comprising, relative to the total weight of the composition: a) 1.5% to 20% by weight of at least one amino acid acyl selected from cocoyl alanine, lauroyl alanine, stearoyl alanine, myristoyl alanine, palmitoyl alanine, oleoyl alanine, and mixtures thereof; b) 0.3% to 5% by weight of at least one amino acid-based gelling agent selected from dibutyl lauroyl glutamide, dibutyl ethylhexanoyl glutamide, and mixtures thereof; and c) 70% to 93% by weight of at least one oil selected from C2-C10 alkyl palmitates.

9. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8, which is anhydrous.

10. A cosmetic method for cleaning keratinous materials comprising applying a composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 9 to said keratinous fibers.