STABLE COMPOSITION IN OLEOGEL FORM
A stable oleogel composition using acyl amino acids and fatty alcohols addresses the instability issue in cosmetic products, maintaining gel form for at least one month.
Patent Information
- Authority / Receiving Office
- FR · FR
- Patent Type
- Utility models
- Current Assignee / Owner
- LOREAL SA
- Filing Date
- 2024-11-18
- Publication Date
- 2026-04-17
AI Technical Summary
Existing cosmetic oleogels are not stable over time, leading to phase separation after a short period of storage.
A composition comprising acyl amino acids and fatty alcohols, which forms a stable oleogel through a sol-gel phase transition, maintaining stability for at least one month.
The composition remains stable as a gel for an extended period, preventing phase separation and ensuring long-term product integrity.
Abstract
Description
Title of the invention: Stable composition in the form of an oleogel technical field
[0001] The present invention relates to a composition. The present invention also relates to a non-therapeutic method for treating keratinous materials. STATE OF THE ART
[0002] The development of products for cosmetic use is ongoing. Traditionally, cosmetic active ingredients are delivered in liquid or semi-solid formulations.
[0003] Liquid and semi-solid formulations are available in various forms, including ointments, creams, foams, gels or lotions, etc.
[0004] The gelation of the oil phase is widely applied in the formulation of skin care, hair care and makeup products.
[0005] To date, oleogel formation is practically achieved by adding polymers, waxes, and low molecular weight molecules. These oil gelling agents lead to oleogel formation through various mechanisms. Their common characteristic is the presence of a solid-like nanometric network covering a continuous, three-dimensional oil phase.
[0006] However, some cosmetic products in the form of oleogels are not satisfactory because they are not stable; phase separation occurs after a short period of storage.
[0007] It is desirable that the commercial products be stable over time, for example, that they can remain stable for at least one month.
[0008] Therefore, there is always a need to develop a composition that is an oleogel and is stable over time. Summary of the invention
[0009] An object of the present invention is therefore to develop a composition which is an oleogel and is stable over time.
[0010] Thus, according to a first aspect, the present invention proposes a composition comprising:
[0011] a) at least one acyl amino acid of formula (I):
[0012] H o R2 Ô RI (!)
[0013] in which,
[0014] - RI represents hydrogen, -(CH2)m-NH2, -(CH2)n-COOH, -(CH2)P-OH, or an alkyl in linear or branched Ci-C20, m, n and p are independently an integer from 0-10;
[0015] - R2 represents a linear or branched, saturated hydrocarbon-based group or unsaturated, preferably chosen from an alkyl or alkenyl group; and
[0016] b) at least one oil chosen from fatty alcohols.
[0017] The inventors have discovered that the composition according to the present invention can be in gel form and is stable over time (for example, one month).
[0018] The composition according to the present invention may be a cosmetic composition.
[0019] According to a second aspect, the present invention proposes a non-therapeutic method for the care of keratinous materials comprising the application of the composition as described above to the keratinous materials.
[0020] Other subjects, features, aspects, and advantages of the present invention will be presented in the following description and will be partly evident from the description or may be learned through practice of the present invention. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION
[0021] Unless otherwise defined, all technical and scientific terms used herein have the same meaning as that commonly understood by a person skilled in the art of the present invention. Where the definition of a term in this description conflicts with the meaning commonly understood by a person skilled in the art of the present invention, the definition described herein shall apply.
[0022] As used herein, unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a range of values are included in that range, in particular in the expressions "between... and..." and "from... to...".
[0023] Furthermore, the expression "at least one" used in this description is equivalent to the expression "one or more".
[0024] Throughout this application, the term "including" shall be interpreted as encompassing all the specifically mentioned features as well as optional, additional, unspecified features. As used herein, the use of the term "including" also discloses the embodiment in which no features other than the specifically mentioned features are present (i.e., "consisting of").
[0025] Unless otherwise specified, all numerical values expressing a quantity of ingredients and the like used in the description and claims shall be understood as modified by the term "approximately". Accordingly, unless otherwise stated, the numerical values and parameters described These are approximate values which, if necessary, can be changed according to the desired objective.
[0026] As used herein, the expression "keratinous materials" includes human keratinous materials such as hair and skin.
[0027] In the present invention, all percentages refer, unless otherwise specified, to a percentage by weight.
[0028] For the purposes of the present invention, and unless otherwise indicated:
[0029] - an "alkyl" radical designates a linear or branched saturated radical containing, by for example, from 1 to 30 carbon atoms;
[0030] - an "alkenyl" radical designates a linear or branched hydrocarbon-based group ethylenically unsaturated, for example, from 1 to 30 carbon atoms. Acyl amino acids
[0031] According to the first aspect, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one acyl amino acid of formula (I): H o ® R2 A\ A. nH Y ï OR RI
[0032] in which,
[0033] - RI represents hydrogen, -(CH2)m-NH2, -(CH2)n-COOH, -(CH2)P-OH, or an alkyl in linear or branched CrC2o, m, n and p are independently an integer from 0-10;
[0034] - R2 represents a linear or branched, saturated hydrocarbon-based group or unsaturated, preferably chosen from an alkyl or alkenyl.
[0035] Preferably, in formula (I), RI represents hydrogen, -(CH2 )m- NH2, -(CH2)n-COOH, -(CH2)P-OH, a linear alkyl in Ci-C6, m, n and p are independently an integer from 1-6, R2 represents a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl in C7-C2i.
[0036] More preferably, in formula (I), RI represents hydrogen, -(CH2)m-NH2, -(CH2)n-COOH, -(CH2)P-OH, a linear C1-C4 alkyl, m, n and p are independently an integer from 1-4, R2 represents a linear or branched C7-C19 alkyl or alkenyl.
[0037] Even more preferably, in formula (I), RI represents hydrogen, -(CH2)m-NH2, -(CH2)n-COOH, -(CH2)P-OH, a linear alkyl in Ci-C4, m, n and p are independently an integer from 2-4, R2 represents a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl in C7-Ci7.
[0038] Furthermore, more preferably, in formula (I), RI represents hydrogen, -(CH2)4-NH2 -(CH2)2-COOH, -(CH2)4-OH, or -CH3, R2 represents a linear or branched C7-Cp alkyl or alkenyl.
[0039] More preferably, the acyl amino acid is chosen from cocoyl glutamic acid, lauroyl glutamic acid, stearoyl glutamic acid, myristoyl glutamic acid, palmitoyl glutamic acid, oleoyl glutamic acid, cocoyl alanine, lauroyl alanine, stearoyl alanine, myristoyl alanine, palmitoyl alanine, oleoyl alanine, cocoyl glycine, lauroyl glycine, stearoyl glycine, myristoyl glycine, palmitoyl glycine, oleoyl glycine, cocoyl lysine, lauroyl lysine, stearoyl lysine, myristoyl lysine, palmitoyl lysine, oleyl lysine and mixtures thereof.
[0040] More preferably, the acyl amino acid is chosen from cocoyl alanine, lauroyl alanine, stearoyl alanine, myristoyl alanine, palmitoyl alanine, oleoyl alanine, and mixtures thereof.
[0041] Most preferably, the composition according to the present invention comprises lauroyl alanine.
[0042] Advantageously, acyl amino acid is present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.1% by weight to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.5% by weight to 25% by weight, more preferably from 1% by weight to 20% by weight, even more preferably from 1.5% by weight to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Oils selected from fatty alcohols
[0043] According to the first aspect, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one oil selected from fatty alcohols.
[0044] As used here, "oil" means a fatty compound which is in the form of a liquid at room temperature (25 °C) under atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg).
[0045] Preferably, the oil is a non-volatile oil.
[0046] The term "non-volatile oil" means an oil whose vapor pressure at 20 °C and atmospheric pressure is less than 2.66 Pa and more particularly less than 0.13 Pa. By way of example, the vapor pressure can be measured according to the static method or by the isothermal thermogravimetric effusion method, depending on the vapor pressure of the oil (OECD standard 104).
[0047] Preferably, the oil is chosen from fatty alcohols in C10-C26.
[0048] As used herein, the expression "C10-C26 fatty alcohol" means an alcohol comprising at least one hydroxyl group (OH), and comprising at least 10 to 26 carbon atoms, and which is neither oxyalkylated (e.g. oxyethylated, oxypropylated, etc.), nor glycerolated.
[0049] Preferably, the oil is chosen from among the fatty alcohols represented by R-OH, where R designates a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl comprising from 10 to 26 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 24 carbon atoms, more preferably from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, and even more preferably from 12 to 20 carbon atoms.
[0050] Preferably, the composition according to the present invention comprises at least one oil selected from the fatty alcohols represented by R-OH, in which R designates a linear or branched alkyl comprising 12 to 20 carbon atoms.
[0051] More preferably, the composition according to the present invention comprises at least one oil selected from lauryl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, isosteraryl alcohol, octyldodecanol, and mixtures thereof.
[0052] Advantageously, the oil chosen from among the fatty alcohols is present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.5% by weight to 90% by weight, preferably from 1% by weight to 70% by weight, more preferably from 1.5% by weight to 50% by weight, even more preferably from 3% by weight to 35% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Additional Oils
[0053] The composition of the present invention may include one or more additional oils in addition to the oil chosen from the fatty alcohols mentioned above.
[0054] The oil or oils may be chosen from hydrocarbon-based oils, volatile or non-volatile, polar or non-polar, silicone oils, and mixtures thereof.
[0055] The oil can be volatile or non-volatile.
[0056] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "silicone oil" means an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and in particular at least one Si-O group, and more particularly an organopolysiloxane.
[0057] The expression "hydrocarbon-based oil" refers to an oil containing primarily carbon and hydrogen atoms and optionally one or more functional groups selected from among the hydroxyl, ester, ether, and carboxyl groups. These oils are therefore different from silicone oils.
[0058] For the purposes of the invention, the term "volatile oil" refers to any oil that is capable of evaporating upon contact with the skin in less than one hour, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. Volatile oil is a volatile cosmetic compound that is liquid at room temperature, having in particular a non-zero vapor pressure at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, having in particular a vapor pressure ranging from 2.66 Pa to 40,000 Pa, in particular ranging from 2.66 Pa to 13,000 Pa, and more particularly ranging from 2.66 Pa to 1,300 Pa. Volatile hydrocarbon-based oils
[0059] Among volatile hydrocarbon-based oils, special mention may be made of those selected from hydrocarbon-type oils (i.e., non-polar hydrocarbon-based oils, consisting solely of carbon and hydrogen) and also ester-type oils. In particular, they may be selected from volatile hydrocarbon-based oils containing 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and mixtures thereof, and especially:
[0060] - branched C8-Ci6 alkanes, such as isoalkanes (also known as (name of isoparaffins), isododecane, isodecane and isohexadecane, and their mixtures and, for example, oils sold under the trade name Isopar or Permethyl,
[0061] - linear alkanes, for example Cn-Cl5 alkanes, alone or in mixtures,
[0062] - C8-Ci6 branched esters, for example isohexyl neopentanoate, and
[0063] - their mixtures.
[0064] Other volatile hydrocarbon oils, such as petroleum distillates, in particular those sold under the name Shell Soit by Shell, may also be used; volatile linear alkanes, such as those described in Cognis patent application DE10 2008 012 457. Volatile silicone oils
[0065] Among volatile silicone oils, one can mention, among others, linear, branched or cyclic silicone oils such as polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) having 3 to 7 silicon atoms, preferably linear or branched polydimethylsiloxanes having 3 to 7 silicon atoms; and also their mixtures.
[0066] Examples of such oils that may be cited include octyl trimethicone, hexyl trimethicone, methyl trimethicone, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, polydimethylsiloxanes, such as those sold under the reference DC 200 (1.5 cSt) or DC 200 (3 cSt) by Dow Corning or KF 96 A from Shin Etsu; alone or in mixtures.
[0067] Polar non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oils
[0068] A "polar hydrocarbon-based oil" means an oil containing mainly hydrogen and carbon atoms and also comprising at least one oxygen atom. More particularly, such an oil comprises one or more functions selected from among the hydroxyl, ester, ether or carboxyl functions, and preferably the hydroxyl, ester or ether functions.
[0069] Examples of non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oils that can be used in the present invention include:
[0070] - triglycerides consisting of glycerol fatty acid esters, in particular of which the Fatty acids can have chain lengths ranging from C4 to C36, and in particular from Cig to C36, these oils being possibly linear or branched, and saturated or unsaturated; These oils may include heptanoic or octanoic triglycerides, wheat germ oil, sunflower oil, grapeseed oil, sesame oil, corn oil, apricot oil, castor oil, shea butter, avocado oil, olive oil, soybean oil, sweet almond oil, palm oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, hazelnut oil, macadamia oil, jojoba oil, alfalfa oil, poppy oil, pumpkin oil, squash oil, blackcurrant oil, evening primrose oil, millet oil, barley oil, quinoa oil, rye oil, safflower oil, candlenut oil, passionflower oil or rosehip oil;or, alternatively, caprylic / capric acid triglycerides, for example those sold by Stéarinerie Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810®, 812® and 818® by Dynamit Nobel;
[0071] - hydrocarbon-based esters of formula RCOOR' in which RCOO represents a carboxylic acid residue comprising 2 to 40 carbon atoms, and R' represents a hydrocarbon chain containing 1 to 40 carbon atoms, such as cetostearyl octanoate, isopropyl alcohol esters, such as isopropyl myristate or isopropyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate or isostearate, isostearyl isostearate, octyl stearate, heptanoates, and in particular isostearyl heptanoate, octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or polyalcohols, for example propylene glycol dioctanoate, cetyl octanoate, octanoate of tridecyl, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, an alkyl benzoate, hexyl laurate, neopentanoic acid esters, for example isodecyl neopentanoate, isotridecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate and 2-octyldodecyl neopentanoate, isononanoic acid esters,for example isononyl isononanoate, isotridecyl isononanoate and octyl isononanoate, oleyl erucate, isocetyl stearate, and isostearyl behenate;
[0072] - polyesters obtained by condensation of a fatty acid dimer and / or trimer unsaturated and diol, such as those described in patent application FR 0 853 634, in particular such as dilinoleic acid and 1,4-butanediol. In this regard, we can cite in particular the polymer sold by Biosynthis under the name Viscoplast 14436H® (INCI name: Dilinoleic Acid / Butanediol Copolymer), or alternatively copolymers of polyols and diacid dimers, and their esters, such as Hailuscent ISDA®;
[0073] - aromatic esters and polyesters such as tridecyl trimellitate, a benzoate of C12-C15 alcohol, 2-phenylethyl ester of benzoic acid and butyl salicylate;
[0074] - diol and monocarboxylic acid dimer esters and polyesters or dicarboxylic, such as diol and fatty acid dimer esters and diol and dicarboxylic acid dimer esters, for example with INCI name: Dimer Dilinoleyl Dimer Dilinoleate, such as Lusplan DD-DA5® and Lusplan DD-DA7® sold by Nippon Fine Chemical and described in US application 2004-175338;
[0075] - synthetic ethers containing 10 to 40 carbon atoms, such as the dicaprylyl ether;
[0076] - dialkyl carbonates, the two alkyl chains being identical or different, such as dicaprylyl carbonate sold under the name CETIOL CC® by Cognis;
[0077] - and their mixtures.
[0078] Non-volatile, non-polar hydrocarbon-based oils
[0079] The oil can also be chosen from non-polar, non-volatile, linear or branched hydrocarbon-based oils, saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated.
[0080] Oil or oils based on linear or branched non-polar non-volatile hydrocarbons are more particularly compounds comprising only carbon and hydrogen atoms (in other words, non-volatile hydrocarbon-type oils).
[0081] Said linear or branched nonpolar oils may be of mineral or synthetic origin, for example:
[0082] - liquid paraffin,
[0083] - squalane,
[0084] - isoeicosan,
[0085] - saturated linear hydrocarbon mixtures, more particularly hydrocarbons in the Ci5-C2s range, such as mixtures whose INCI names are, for example, the following: C15-19 Alkane (INCI name), C18-21 Alkane (INCI name), C21-28 Alkane (INCI name), for example the products Gemseal 40, Gemseal 60 and Gemseal 120 sold by Total, Emogreen L19 sold by SEPPIC,
[0086] - hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated polybutenes, for example products of the Indopol range sold by INEOS Oligomers,
[0087] - hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated polyisobutenes, for example non- volatiles from the Parleam® range sold by Nippon Oil Fats,
[0088] - hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated polydecenes, for example non- volatiles from the Puresyn® range sold by ExxonMobil),
[0089] - and their mixtures. Non-volatile silicone oils
[0090] The non-volatile oil may also be selected from phenylated or non-phenylated non-volatile silicone oils. More specifically, said silicone oils are free from (poly)alkoxylated groups, in particular (poly)ethoxylated or (poly)propoxylated groups, or (poly)glycerolated groups.
[0091] More particularly, the phenylated or non-phenylated non-volatile silicone oil is selected from dimethicones, trimethylpentaphenyltrisiloxanes, tetramethyltetraphenyltrisiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, trimethylsiloxyphenyl dimethicones, phenyl trimethicone and diphenylsiloxyphenyl trimethicone, and also mixtures thereof.
[0092] These products are notably sold under the names PH-1555 HRI Cosmetic Fluid (trimethyl pentaphenyl trisiloxane) and Dowsil 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid (phenyl trimethicone) by Dow Corning; diphenyl dimethicones such as products KF-54, KF54HV, KF-50-300CS, KF-53 d and KF-50-100CS or Diphenylsiloxy Phenyl Trimethicone KF56 A sold by Shin-Etsu; and Belsil PDM 1000 and Belsil PDM 20 sold by Wacker Chemie (trimethylsiloxy phenyl dimethicone), alone or in mixtures. The values in parentheses represent viscosities at 25 °C (ASTM D-445 standard).
[0093] Preferably, the additional oils used are liquid esters of aliphatic monoacids or polyacids in Ci-C26, preferably in CiO-C2o, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and of aliphatic monoalcohols or polyalcohols in Cr C26, preferably in C2-CiO, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, the total number of carbon atoms of the esters being greater than or equal to 10.
[0094] Preferably, at least one of the alcohol and acid from which said esters are derived is branched.
[0095] More preferably, the composition according to the present invention comprises at least one additional oil selected from C2-Ci0 alkyl palmitates.
[0096] Even more preferably, the composition according to the present invention comprises ethylhexyl palmitate.
[0097] Advantageously, the additional oil is present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount ranging from 50% by weight to 95% by weight, preferably from 60% by weight to 94% by weight, more preferably from 70% by weight to 93% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Active cosmetic ingredients
[0098] Optionally, the composition according to the present invention includes cosmetic active ingredients.
[0099] For example, the composition may include one or more agents selected from UV protection agents, antioxidant agents, a skin barrier repair agent, cosmetic dyes, anti-aging agents.
[0100] A person skilled in the art can select the quantity of cosmetic active ingredients according to the end use of the composition according to the present invention. Adjuvants
[0101] The composition according to the present invention may also include an effective amount of other ingredients, such as perfumes, pH modifiers, preservatives and so on.
[0102] A person skilled in the art can choose the quantity of additional adjuvants so as not to have a negative impact on the final use of the composition according to the present invention.
[0103] According to a preferred embodiment, the present invention proposes a composition comprising, relative to the total weight of the composition: a. from 1.5% by weight to 10% by weight of at least one acyl amino acid selected from cocoyl alanine, lauroyl alanine, stearoyl alanine, myristoyl alanine, palmitoyl alanine, oleoyl alanine, and mixtures thereof; and b. from 1.5% by weight to 50% by weight of at least one oil chosen from the fatty alcohols represented by R-OH, where R denotes a linear or branched alkyl comprising 12 to 20 carbon atoms.
[0104] Preferably, the composition according to the present invention is anhydrous.
[0105] As used here, the term "anhydrous" means that the composition contains less than 2% by weight and preferably less than 1% by weight of water, more preferably less than 0.5%, relative to the total weight of the composition, more preferably containing no water. Where appropriate, small amounts of water may be supplied by ingredients in the composition that contain it in residual quantities but are not deliberately supplied. Preparation and use
[0106] The composition according to the present invention can be prepared by mixing ingredients a) and b), as essential ingredients, together with one or more additional ingredients, as explained above, and by initiating a sol-gel phase transition, for example, by cooling the composition.
[0107] The method and means for mixing the above essential and optional ingredients are not limited. Any conventional method and means can be used to mix the above essential and optional ingredients to prepare the composition according to the present invention.
[0108] The composition according to the present invention is in gel form.
[0109] According to the second aspect, the present invention proposes a non-therapeutic method for the treatment of keratinous materials comprising the application of the composition as described above to the keratinous materials. EXAMPLES
[0110] The following examples are given by way of non-limiting illustrations of the present invention.
[0111] The main raw materials used, their trade names and suppliers are listed in Table 1.
[0112] [Tables 1] INCI Name Trade Name Supplier Lauroyl alanine AMINOSURFACT LA SUZHOU WEIMEI Octyldodecanol (Octyldodecanol) EUTANOL G BASF Lauryl alcohol (Lauryl alcohol) ECOROL 26 / MB ECOGREEN OLE OCHEMICALS Ethylhexyl palmitate (Ethylhexyl palmitate) CEGESOFT C 24 BASF Coco-caprylate / caprate (Coco-caprylate / caprate) CETIOL LC BASF Inventive Examples 1-2 Comparative Examples 1-2
[0113] The compositions of the inventive examples (El) 1-2 and -of the comparative examples (EC) 1-2 were prepared on the basis of the quantities of components given in Table 2. The quantities are given as % by weight of each component relative to the total weight of each composition.
[0114] [Tables2] Components El. 1 El. 2 EC. 1 EC.2 Lauroyl alanine 5 5 5 5 Octyldodecanol 30 / / / Lauryl alcohol / 5 / / Coco caprylate / caprate / / / 30 Ethylhexyl palmitate QS100 QS100 QS100 QS100
[0115] The compositions of examples 1 and 2 of the invention represent compositions according to the present invention.
[0116] The composition of comparative example 1 does not include at least one oil chosen from fatty alcohols.
[0117] The composition of comparative example 2 includes coco-caprylate / caprate instead of at least one oil selected from fatty alcohols.
[0118] Preparation procedure:
[0119] The above compositions were prepared as follows: 1. Add lauroyl alanine, octyldodecanol (if applicable), lauryl alcohol (if applicable), coco-caprylate / caprate (if applicable) and ethylhexyl palmitate to a beaker with stirring at 75 °C for 10 minutes to obtain a homogeneous and clear liquid. 2. then cool the homogeneous and clear liquid to room temperature (approximately 25 °C) without stirring. Assessment
[0120] The compositions of inventive examples 1-2 and comparative examples 1-2 were evaluated in terms of gelation and stability. Gelation
[0121] An inverted tube test was used to qualitatively evaluate the gelling of the compositions of inventive examples 1-2 and comparative examples 1-2. In this test, a test tube or flask containing a sample to be evaluated was inverted. It was then observed whether or not the sample flowed under its own weight. It was thought that a gel sample with a yield strength would not flow, while a viscous but inelastic soil sample would exhibit appreciable flow. Stability
[0122] The stability of the compositions of inventive examples 1-2 and comparative examples 1-2 was evaluated by storing the compositions at room temperature (approximately 25°C) for one month. At the end of the storage period, the physical appearance (oil leakage or not, color), odor, phase separation, and hardness were checked manually. If there was no perceptible change in physical appearance, odor, or hardness, and no phase separation, then the composition under test was considered stable; otherwise, the composition under test was considered unstable.
[0123] The results for the gelation and stability of the compositions of inventive examples 1-2 and comparative examples 1-2 have been summarized in Table 3.
[0124] [Tables3] Properties ELI EL 2 EC. 1 EC. 2 Gelation Yes Yes Yes Yes Stability Stable Stable Unstable (phase separation) Unstable (phase separation)
[0125] It can be seen from Table 3 that the compositions of inventive examples 1-2 are stable gels.
Claims
Demands
1. Composition comprising: a) at least one acyl amino acid of formula (I): H o ® R? ti H R2 . x QH 0 RI in which, - RI represents hydrogen, -(CH2)m-NH2, -(CH2)n-COOH, -(CH2)P-OH, or a linear or branched Ci-C20 alkyl, m, n and p are independently an integer from 0-10; - R2 represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based group, preferably selected from an alkyl or alkenyl; and b) at least one oil selected from fatty alcohols.
2. Composition according to claim 1, wherein in formula (I), RI represents hydrogen, -(CH2)m-NH2, -(CH2)n-COOH, -(CH2)P-OH, a linear CrC6 alkyl, m, n and p are independently an integer from 1-6, R2 represents a linear or branched C7-C2i alkyl or alkenyl; Preferably, RI represents hydrogen, -(CH2)m-NH2, -(CH2)n-COOH, -(CH2)p-OH, a linear C1-C4 alkyl, m, n, and p are independently integers from 1 to 4; R2 represents a linear or branched C7-C19 alkyl or alkenyl; more preferably, RI represents hydrogen, -(CH2)m-NH2, -(CH2)n-COOH, -(CH2)p-OH, a linear C1-C4 alkyl, m, n, and p are independently integers from 2 to 4; R2 represents a linear or branched C7-C17 alkyl or alkenyl; even more preferably, RI represents hydrogen, -(CH2)4-NH2, -(CH2)2-COOH, -(CH2)4-OH, or -CH3; R2 represents a C7-C[7] alkyl or alkenyl linear or branched.
3. Composition according to claim 1, wherein the acyl amino acid is selected from cocoyl alanine, lauroyl alanine, stearoyl alanine, myristoyl alanine, palmitoyl alanine, oleoyl alanine, and mixtures thereof.
4. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the oil is selected from the fatty alcohols represented by R-OH, in which R denotes a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl comprising from 10 to 26 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 24 carbon atoms, more preferably from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, and even more preferably from 12 to 20 carbon atoms.
5. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the oil is selected from lauryl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, and mixtures thereof.
6. Composition according to claim 1, comprising, relative to the total weight of the composition: a) 1.5% by weight to 10% by weight of at least one amino acyl acid selected from cocoyl alanine, lauroyl alanine, stearoyl alanine, myristoyl alanine, palmitoyl alanine, oleoyl alanine, and mixtures thereof; and b) 1.5% by weight to 50% by weight of at least one oil selected from the fatty alcohols represented by R-OH, in which R denotes a linear or branched alkyl comprising 12 to 20 carbon atoms.
7. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, further comprising one or more additional oils in addition to the non-volatile oils selected from the fatty alcohols in C10-C26.
8. Composition according to claim 7, wherein the additional oil is selected from ester oils, preferably selected from liquid esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, aliphatic monoacids or polyacids in Ci-C26, preferably in Ci0-C20, and of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, aliphatic monoalcohols or polyalcohols in Ci-C26, preferably in C2-Cio, the total number of carbon atoms of the esters being greater than or equal to 10, more preferably selected from alkyl palmitates in C2-Cio, even more preferably the composition comprises ethylhexyl palmitate.
9. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8, which is anhydrous.
10. Non-therapeutic method for the treatment of keratinous materials, comprising the application of the composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 9 on said keratinous materials.