HAIR CARE COMPOSITION BASED ON VEGETABLE WAX AND SPECIAL CATIONIC SURFACTANTS

Abstract

The present invention relates to a composition, particularly a hair care product, comprising at least one vegetable wax, at least one first cationic surfactant selected from fatty amines, and at least one second cationic surfactant of the ammonium diester type. The invention further relates to a cosmetic treatment process for keratinous materials, comprising a step of applying the composition according to the invention to said keratinous materials.

Description

Title of the invention: HAIR CARE COMPOSITION BASED ON VEGETABLE WAX AND SPECIAL CATIONIC SURFACTANTS

[0001] The present invention relates to a composition, in particular a hair care product comprising at least one vegetable wax, at least one first cationic surfactant selected from fatty amines and at least one second cationic surfactant of the ammonium diester type.

[0002] The invention further relates to a cosmetic treatment process for keratinous materials comprising a step of applying to said keratinous materials at least one composition as defined later.

[0003] Hair can be weakened or damaged by the action of external atmospheric agents such as light and inclement weather, or by mechanical or chemical treatments such as brushing, combing, dyeing, bleaching, perming, and / or straightening. To remedy these problems, it is common to use hair care products that condition the hair. These hair care products can be conditioning shampoos or conditioners, which may be in the form of gels, hair lotions, or creams of varying thicknesses.

[0004] To improve the cosmetic properties of these compositions, particularly those intended for sensitized hair, it is known to introduce silicones into them. Silicones do indeed improve cosmetic properties, including detangling, softness to the touch, and hair volume, while preserving and strengthening the intrinsic mechanical properties of keratin fibers, such as tensile strength, breaking load and elasticity, or their resistance to swelling in an aqueous environment.

[0005] However, the presence of silicone has several disadvantages: the environmental profile (biodegradability, water footprint) is not always optimal, the appearance of the composition is generally opaque (not very aesthetic), and the hair becomes greasy quickly and is often weighed down.

[0006] In addition, repeated applications of these compositions often result in an unpleasant feel to the hair, a loss of volume and bounce in the hair, and sometimes a lack of shine.

[0007] Furthermore, research on texture has played a central role in cosmetics for years in the development of creams for the body, face, hands, etc., but remains very underdeveloped in the hair care field and particularly in the field of hair care. As a result, current hair care formulations generally do not have textures that are pleasant to the touch for consumers, specifically one that is both firm and melts into the skin.

[0008] Indeed, current compositions, which generally have a thick texture, are not very meltable and are difficult to distribute evenly on keratinous materials, in particular keratinous fibers such as hair.

[0009] From these observations arose the interest in developing a hair care composition advantageously without silicone (“silicone-free” in English), presenting improved qualities of use, in particular a firm and melting texture which is easy to apply on the keratin fibers, which spreads easily on the fibers, and “melts” quickly on application, as well as good cosmetic properties, in particular which is able to repair the ends of the hair and give the keratin fibers softness to the touch, suppleness, and a smooth feel.

[0010] It is of particular interest to succeed in developing a composition which has both a firm and melting texture upon application, which allows for a homogeneous deposition of the composition on keratinous materials, and more preferentially on keratinous fibers such as hair.

[0011] Furthermore, the formulation of environmentally friendly cosmetic products, that is to say, whose design and development take into account environmental issues, is becoming a major concern in order to help meet global challenges.

[0012] It is therefore essential to propose more sustainable compositions and / or preparation processes and / or ingredients, thus enabling us to meet these environmental challenges.

[0013] In this context, it is important to develop new cosmetic compositions with a better carbon footprint, in particular by promoting the use of renewable raw materials and / or with a good naturalness index and / or of natural origin and more particularly of plant origin, while reducing the use of petrochemical compounds.

[0014] These objectives are achieved with the present invention, which relates in particular to a composition, preferably cosmetic, in particular hair care, comprising:

[0015] (i) at least one vegetable wax, (ii) at least one first cationic surfactant selected from fatty amines, and (iii) at least one second cationic surfactant of the following formula (A): in which: - Ri and R2 represent, independently of each other, a C7-C4o hydrocarbon group, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, - R3 and R4, independently of each other, are chosen from a) alkyl groups in C1-C4, b) hydroxyalkyl groups in Ci-C4, and c) dihydroxyalkyl groups in CrC4, - A and A' represent, independently of each other, an alkyl group in Ci-C6, and - X represents an anion.

[0016] It has been observed that the composition according to the invention has good performance qualities and good cosmetic properties, in particular a good coating of the keratin fibers by the composition, giving them good protection against the action of external atmospheric agents such as light and weathering, or by mechanical or chemical treatments such as brushing, combing, dyeing, bleaching, perming and / or straightening, and allowing the asperities of said fibers to be effectively eliminated to the touch.

[0017] The composition according to the invention also has a differentiating texture compared to hair care compositions usually used, with a very thick (very firm) balm texture and particularly melts upon application, especially upon contact with keratin fibers such as hair.

[0018] The composition according to the invention succeeds in presenting a firm and melting texture upon application, while allowing homogeneous deposition of the latter on keratinous materials, in particular keratinous fibers such as hair.

[0019] The melting refers in particular to the ability of the product to become fluid upon contact with hair materials during its application.

[0020] In addition, it has been observed that the composition according to the invention makes it possible to repair the ends of the hair and gives the keratin fibers softness to the touch, suppleness, and smoothness to the touch.

[0021] Furthermore, the applicant also noted that the composition according to the invention can advantageously be formulated without silicone compounds, without giving up the advantageous properties mentioned above.

[0022] The invention also relates to a cosmetic treatment process, in particular for hair, comprising at least one application step on keratinous materials, in particular keratinous fibers of at least one composition as described later.

[0023] Other objects, features, aspects and advantages of the invention will become even clearer upon reading the description and example that follows.

[0024] In this description, and unless otherwise indicated: - the expression "at least one" is equivalent to the expression "one or more" and can be substituted for it. - the expression "between... and..." is equivalent to the expression "ranging from... to..." and can be substituted for it, and implies that the limits are included. - By the expression "greater than" and respectively the expression "less than" in the meaning of the present invention, we mean an open interval that is strictly greater than, respectively strictly less than, and therefore that the bounds are not included. - For the purposes of this application, "keratinous materials" means more particularly 1) the skin of the body and / or face (including the scalp) and / or nails, and 2) keratinous fibers; and even more particularly the scalp and hair. - For the purposes of this application, "keratin fibers" refers particularly to human keratin fibers such as hair, eyelashes, eyebrows, and body hair, preferably hair, eyebrows and eyelashes, and even more preferably hair. - For the purposes of this invention, "hair" means the hair on the head. This term does not include body hair, eyebrows, or eyelashes. - For the purposes of this application, "fatty acid" means an organic acid comprising in its structure a hydrocarbon chain, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, more preferably from 10 to 22 carbon atoms. - For the purposes of this application, "fatty alcohol" means an alcohol comprising in its structure a hydrocarbon chain, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, more preferably from 10 to 22 carbon atoms.

[0025] Preferably, the composition according to the invention is free of silicone.

[0026] By the expression "silicone-free", it is understood that the composition according to the invention does not include silicone, or that the silicone(s) present in the composition according to the invention are included in a total content less than or equal to 0.1% by weight, preferably less than 0.05% relative to the total weight of the composition according to the invention, better silicone-free (0%).

[0027] The term “silicone” means all organosilicon polymers or oligomers with a linear or cyclic, branched or cross-linked structure, of varying molecular weight, obtained by polymerization and / or polycondensation of suitably functionalized silanes, and consisting essentially of a repetition of principal motifs in which silicon atoms are linked together by oxygen atoms (siloxane bond -Si-O-Si-), with optionally substituted hydrocarbon radicals being directly linked via a carbon atom to said silicon atoms; and more specifically dialkylsiloxane polymers, amino silicones, dimethiconols.

[0028] Preferably, the composition according to the invention is free of anionic surfactant.

[0029] By the expression "devoid of anionic surfactant", it is understood that the composition according to the invention does not include anionic surfactant, or that the anionic surfactant(s) present in the composition according to the invention are included in a total content less than or equal to 0.1% by weight, preferably less than 0.05% relative to the total weight of the composition according to the invention, better free of anionic surfactant (0%).

[0030] By "anionic surfactant" is meant a surfactant comprising only anionic groups as ionic or ionizable groups.

[0031] In the present description, an entity is qualified as "anionic" when it has at least one permanent negative charge or when it can be ionized into a negatively charged entity, under the conditions of use of the composition of the invention (medium, pH for example) and not comprising a cationic charge.

[0032] Vegetable waxes: The composition according to the invention comprises at least one vegetable wax.

[0033] A wax, in the sense of the present invention, is a lipophilic compound, solid at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (1.013.105 Pa), with a reversible solid / liquid change of state, having a melting temperature above about 40°C and up to 200°C, and exhibiting in the solid state an anisotropic crystalline organization.

[0034] In particular, the wax(s) suitable for the invention may have a melting point greater than or equal to 45°C, and in particular greater than or equal to 55°C, and especially up to 120°C. More particularly, the wax(s) suitable for the invention may have a melting point greater than or equal to 45°C, and in particular greater than or equal to 55°C.

[0035] For the purposes of this invention, the melting point corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed in differential scanning calorimetry (DSC) as described in ISO 11357-3; 1999. The melting point of the crystallizable fat can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example, the calorimeter sold under the name MDSC 2920 by TA Instruments. Such a measurement method is described, for example, in document WO 2013190080.

[0036] Generally speaking, the size of the wax crystals is such that the crystals diffract and / or diffuse light, giving the composition containing them a cloudy, more or less opaque appearance. By heating the wax to its melting point, It is possible to make it miscible with oils and to form a microscopically homogeneous mixture, but by bringing the temperature of the mixture back to room temperature, a recrystallization of the wax is obtained, detectable microscopically and macroscopically (opalescence).

[0037] The vegetable wax(s) may be unmodified (native) or modified (for example hydrogenated); unmodified vegetable waxes are preferred.

[0038] A vegetable wax, within the meaning of the present invention, is a wax obtained from plants, for example extracted from leaves, flowers, fruits, peel (for example of citrus fruits), seeds or stems.

[0039] Examples include jojoba wax, rice bran wax (Oryza sativa cera), carnauba wax (Copemicia cerifera cera), candelilla wax (Candelilla cera), sunflower wax (Helianthus annuus seed cera), Ouricury wax, alfa wax, berry wax, shellac wax, Japanese wax and sumac wax; Montan wax, orange and lemon waxes, mimosa flower wax (Acacia decurrens flower cera), absolute flower waxes such as blackcurrant flower essential wax sold by the company BERTIN (France).

[0040] We can also mention waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of vegetable oils having linear or branched fatty chains, in C8 to C32. Among these, we can notably mention isomerized jojoba oil, such as trans isomerized partially hydrogenated jojoba oil, in particular that manufactured or marketed by the company Desert Whale under the trade reference Iso-Jojoba-50®, hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil and hydrogenated coconut oil.

[0041] Waxes obtained by hydrogenation of esterified castor oil with cetyl alcohol can also be used, such as those sold under the names Phytowax ricin 16L64® and 22L73® by the company SOPHIM.

[0042] It is also possible to use micro-waxes, in particular carnauba micro-waxes, such as that marketed under the name MicroCare 350® by the company MICRO POWDERS.

[0043] Preferably, the vegetable wax or waxes present in the composition according to the invention are chosen from jojoba wax, rice bran wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, sunflower wax, and mixtures thereof, more preferably from jojoba wax, rice bran wax, and mixtures thereof, better from rice bran wax.

[0044] Preferably, the total vegetable wax content is in the range of 0.01% to 20% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% to 15% by weight, or even more preferably from 0.5 to 12% by weight, better from 1% to 10% by weight, even better from 1.5% to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0045] Preferably, the total content of vegetable wax(s) chosen from jojoba wax, rice bran wax, Camauba wax, Candelilla wax, sunflower wax, and mixtures thereof, is in the range of 0.01% to 20% by weight, more preferably 0.1% to 15% by weight, even more preferably 0.5% to 12% by weight, better 1% to 10% by weight, even better 1.5% to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0046] Preferably, the total content of vegetable wax(s) chosen from jojoba wax, rice bran wax, and mixtures thereof, is in the range of 0.01% to 20% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% to 15% by weight, even more preferably from 0.5% to 12% by weight, better from 1% to 10% by weight, even better from 1.5% to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0047] Fatty amine-type cationic surfactants: The composition according to the present invention comprises at least a first cationic surfactant selected from fatty amines.

[0048] More preferably, the fatty amine(s) are chosen from primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amines (possibly (poly)oxyalkylated or (poly)glycerolated), their salts, and their mixtures.

[0049] The term “fatty amine” means a compound comprising at least one primary, secondary or tertiary amine function, possibly (poly)oxyalkylened, or its salts and comprising at least one C6-C30 hydrocarbon chain, preferably C8-C30.

[0050] Said cationic surfactants chosen from fatty amines are non-siliconized, that is to say they do not contain a Si-O group.

[0051] Preferably, the cationic surfactants chosen from the fatty amines usable according to the invention are not (poly)oxyalkylated or (poly)glycerolated.

[0052] Amidoamines are examples of cationic surfactants of the fatty amine type. The amidoamines according to the invention can advantageously be chosen from among the fatty amidoamines, the fatty chain being able to be borne by the amine group or by the amido group.

[0053] Amidoamine is understood to be a compound comprising at least one amide function and at least one primary, secondary or tertiary amine function.

[0054] Fatty amidoamine is understood to be an amidoamine comprising, in general, at least one C6-C3o hydrocarbon chain. Preferably, the fatty amidoamines according to the invention are not quantified.

[0055] Preferably, the fatty amidoamines according to the invention are not (poly)oxyalkylated or (poly)glycerolated.

[0056] Among the fatty amidoamines according to the invention, particular mention may be made of amidoamines of formula RCONHR”N(R')2 in which: - R represents a linear or branched monovalent hydrocarbon radical, saturated or unsaturated and substituted or unsubstituted, having from 5 to 29 carbon atoms, preferably from 7 to 23 carbon atoms, and in particular a linear or branched C5-C29 alkyl radical, preferably C7-C23, or a linear or branched C5-C29 alkenyl radical, preferably C7-C23; - R” represents a divalent hydrocarbon radical having fewer than 6 carbon atoms, preferably 2 to 4 carbon atoms, better still, 3 carbon atoms; and - R', identical or different, represent a monovalent hydrocarbon radical having less than 6 carbon atoms, preferably 1 to 4 carbon atoms, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated and substituted or unsubstituted, preferably a methyl radical.

[0057] Examples include the following fatty amidoamines: oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, isostearamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidoethyl dimethylamine, lauramidopropyl dimethylamine, myristamidopropyl dimethylamine, behenamidopropyl dimethylamine, dilinoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, ricinoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, soyamidopropyl dimethylamine, avocadoamidopropyl dimethylamine, cocamidopropyl dimethylamine, minkamidopropyl dimethylamine, oatamidopropyl dimethylamine, sesamidopropyl dimethylamine, tallamidopropyl dimethylamine, olivamidopropyl dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidoethyl diethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine and their mixtures.

[0058] Preferably, the fatty amidoamines are not in quaternized form when introduced into the composition according to the invention (which does not exclude the fact that they may "quaternize" in situ).

[0059] Preferably, the first cationic surfactant(s) chosen from fatty amines are chosen from fatty amidoamines.

[0060] Preferably, the first cationic surfactant(s) selected from fatty amines are chosen from oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine, steramidoethyl diethylamine, and mixtures thereof; more preferably from stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine and mixtures thereof, better from stearamidopropyl dimethylamine.

[0061] Preferably, the total content of the first cationic surfactant(s) selected from fatty amines is in the range of 0.01% to 10% by weight, more preferably between 0.1% and 8% by weight, more preferably between 0.2% and 5% by weight, and better from 0.5% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0062] Preferably, the total content of the first cationic surfactant(s) chosen from fatty amidoamines is in the range of 0.01% to 10% by weight, more preferably 0.1% to 8% by weight, more preferably between 0.2% and 5% by weight, and better still between 0.5% and 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0063] Preferably, the total content of the first cationic surfactant(s) chosen from fatty amidoamines of formula RCONHR''N(R')2 is in the range of 0.01% to 10% by weight, more preferably 0.1% to 8% by weight, more preferably between 0.2% and 5% by weight, and better still between 0.5% and 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0064] Preferably, the total content of the first cationic surfactant(s) chosen from stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine, and mixtures thereof, is in the range of 0.01% to 10% by weight, more preferably 0.1% to 8% by weight, more preferably between 0.2% and 5% by weight, and better still between 0.5% and 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0065] Cationic surfactants of formula (A): The composition according to the invention comprises at least one second cationic surfactant of the following formula (A): | r [] (A) A -K A. R / in which: - Ri and R2 independently represent a C7-C40 hydrocarbon group, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, - R3 and R4, independently of each other, are chosen from a) C1-C4 alkyl groups, b) C1-C4 hydroxyalkyl groups, and c) C1-C4 dihydroxyalkyl groups, - A and A' independently represent an alkyl group in Ci-C6, and - X represents an anion.

[0066] Preferably, Ri and R2 are linear.

[0067] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, Ri and R2 are saturated.

[0068] According to another embodiment of the invention, Ri and R2 are unsaturated.

[0069] Preferably, Ri and R2 represent, independently of each other, a hydrocarbon group in C7-C30, more preferably in C9-C21, even more preferably in Cn-Cp.

[0070] Preferably, A and A' represent independently of each other an alkyl group in C1-C4, more preferably in C1-C2, even more preferably in C2. Preferably, A and A' are identical.

[0071] Preferably R3 represents an alkyl group in C1-C4, more preferably in Cr C2, better R3 represents a methyl group.

[0072] Preferably, R4 is chosen from a) alkyl groups in C1-C4, more preferably in CrC2, better a methyl group; b) hydroxyalkyl groups in Ci-C4, more preferably in C2-C3, better the CH2CH2OH group.

[0073] The anion X preferably represents a) a halide, in particular a chloride, bromide or iodide, b) an alkyl(Ci-C4)sulfate, c) an alkyl(Ci-C4)sulfonate, d) an alkyl(Ci-C4)aryl-sulfonate, e) a phosphate, f) a nitrate, g) a tosylate, h) an anion derived from an organic acid such as an acetate or a lactate, j) any other ammonium-compatible anion with an ester function.

[0074] More preferably, the anion X represents a) a halide or b) an alkyl(Ci-C4)sulfate. More preferably still, the anion X- represents a chloride ion or a methosulfate group.

[0075] Preferably, the second cationic surfactant(s) of formula (A) are such that: - Ri and R2 independently represent a hydrocarbon group in C7-C30, more preferably in C9-C21, even more preferably in Cn-Cp; preferably linear, saturated or unsaturated. - A and A' independently represent an alkyl group in C1-C4, more preferably in C1-C2, even more preferably in C2; preferably A and A' are identical; - R3 represents an alkyl group in C1-C4, more preferably in Ci-C2, better R3 represents a methyl group; - R4 represents a hydroxyalkyl group in C1-C4, more preferably a hydroxyalkyl group in C2-C3; or an alkyl group in C1-C4, more preferably in C1-C2, better a methyl group; - X represents a) a halide, preferably chloride, bromide or iodide, b) an alkyl(Ci-C4)sulfate, c) an alkyl(Ci-C4)sulfonate, d) an alkyl(Ci-C4)arylsulfonate, e) a phosphate, f) a nitrate, g) a tosylate, h) an anion derived from an organic acid such as an acetate or a lactate; more preferably, an anion. X represents a) a halide or b) an alkyl(Ci-C4)sulfate; more preferably still, the anion X represents a chloride ion or a methosulfate group.

[0076] Preferably, the second cationic surfactant(s) of formula (A) are such that: - RietR2 represent, independently of each other, a linear, saturated C9-C2i hydrocarbon group, - R3 and R4, independently of each other, are chosen from among the alkyl groups in C1-C2 and the hydroxyalkyl groups in C2-C3, - A and A' independently represent a Ci-C2 alkyl group; preferably A and A' are identical; and - X represents an anion chosen from among the halides and the alkyl(Ci-C4) sulfate groups.

[0077] According to the invention, the second cationic surfactants iii) used in the composition are different from the first cationic surfactants of the fatty amine type ii) also used in the composition.

[0078] Preferably, the second cationic surfactant(s) of formula (A) are chosen from dicocoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, dipalmitoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, distearoylethyl dimonium chloride, dioleoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, dioleoylethyl dimonium chloride, dipalmitoylethyl dimonium chloride, distearoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, and mixtures thereof, more preferably from dicocoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, dipalmitoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, distearoylethyl dimonium chloride, dioleoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, and mixtures thereof, even more preferably from distearoylethyl dimonium chloride.

[0079] Better, the composition according to the invention comprises at least a second cationic surfactant of formula (A) in salt form, in particular distearoylethyl dimonium chloride.

[0080] Preferably, the total content of second cationic surfactant(s) of formula (A) is in the range of 0.01% to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% to 10% by weight, more preferably from 1% to 8% by weight, better from 1.5% to 7% by weight, even better from 2% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0081] Preferably, the total content of the second cationic surfactant(s) of formula (A) selected from dicocoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, dipalmitoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, distearoylethyl dimonium chloride, dioleoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, and mixtures thereof is included in the range of 0.01% to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% to 10% by weight, more preferably still from 1% to 8% by weight, better from 1.5% to 7% by weight, even better from 2% to 5% by weight, in relation to the total weight of the composition.

[0082] Preferably, the total content of second cationic surfactant(s) of formula (A) chosen from distearoylethyl dimonium chloride is in the range of 0.01% to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% to 10% by weight, more preferably from 1% to 8% by weight, better from 1.5% to 7% by weight, even better from 2% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0083] Preferably, the total content of first and second cationic surfactants ii) and iii) in the composition is in the range of 0.02% to 20%, more preferably 0.1% to 15%, even more preferably 1% to 10%, better 2% to 7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0084] Additional cationic surfactants: The composition according to the invention may optionally further comprise at least one additional cationic surfactant.

[0085] The possible additional cationic surfactant(s) are different from the first cationic surfactant(s) chosen from fatty amines and the second cationic surfactant(s) of formula (A) as described previously.

[0086] Among the additional cationic surfactants that can be used in the composition according to the invention, we can also mention quaternary ammonium salts, quaternary diammonium salts, quaternary triammonium salts, and mixtures thereof.

[0087] The additional cationic surfactants selected from quaternary ammonium salts, quaternary diammonium salts and / or quaternary triammonium salts are different from the cationic surfactants of formula (A) and the fatty amine type cationic surfactants as previously described.

[0088] Additional cationic surfactants other than cationic surfactants of formula (A) and fatty amine type cationic surfactants as previously described, are preferably chosen from quaternary ammonium salts, quaternary diammonium salts, quaternary triammonium salts as described below, and mixtures thereof.

[0089] Quaternary ammonium salts include, in particular:

[0090] - quaternary ammonium salts of formula (la): in which: liai The R8 to Ru groups, whether identical or different, represent a linear or branched aliphatic group, comprising from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, or an aromatic group such as aryl or alkylaryl, at least one of the R8 to Ru groups comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 24 carbon atoms; the aliphatic groups may comprise heteroatoms such as, in particular, oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur, and halogens; and X is an anion specifically chosen from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, alkyl(Ci-C4)sulfates, alkyl(Ci-C4)sulfonates or alkyl(Ci-C4)aryl-sulfonates.

[0091] The aliphatic groups R8 to Ru can be selected from the following Ci-C30 alkyl groups, Ci-C30 alkoxy groups, (C2-C6) polyoxyalkylene, Ci-C30 alkylamide, alkyl(Ci2-C22)amidoalkyl(C2-C6), alkyl(Ci2-C22)acetate and Ci-C30 hydroxyalkyl groups.

[0092] We can mention in particular the halides, in particular the chlorides, of tetraalkylammonium such as dialkyldimethylammonium chlorides or alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides in which the alkyl group comprises from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, in particular behenyltrimethylammonium chlorides, distearyldimethylammonium chlorides, cetyltrimethylammonium chlorides, benzyldimethylstearylammonium chlorides.

[0093] We can also mention halides, and in particular chlorides, of palmitylamidopropyltrimethylammonium or of stearamidopropyldimethyl-(myristyl acetate)-ammonium; in particular the product marketed under the name CERAPHYL® 70 by the company VAN DYK.

[0094] - quaternary ammonium salts of imidazoline of formula (lia): F .......CO—FU x <„ • (lia) V..........2 ^14 । in which: Ri2 represents an alkenyl or alkyl group containing 8 to 30 carbon atoms, for example derived from fatty acids in tallow, Rn represents a hydrogen atom, an alkyl group in CrC4, or an alkenyl or alkyl group containing 8 to 30 carbon atoms. Ri4 represents an alkyl group in CrC4, Ris represents a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group in CrC4, X is an anion, notably chosen from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, alkyl(CrC4)sulfates, alkyl(Ci-C4)sulfonates or alkyl(Ci-C4)aryl-sulfonates.

[0095]

[0096]

[0097]

[0098] Preferably, Rn and Rn denote a mixture of alkenyl or alkyl groups comprising 12 to 21 carbon atoms, for example, derived from tallow fatty acids, Ru denotes a methyl group, and Ri5 denotes a hydrogen atom. Such a product is, for example, marketed under the name REWOQUAT® W75 or W90 by the company Evonik. Examples of quaternary diammonium or quaternary triammonium salts include those with the formula (Ilia): K sv (lHa) | in which: - Rie designates an alkyl group comprising 16 to 30 carbon atoms, possibly hydroxylated and / or possibly interrupted by one or more oxygen atoms, - Rn designates hydrogen, an alkyl group with 1 to 4 carbon atoms, or a group -(CH2)3-N+(Ri6a)(Ri7a)(Ri8a), Ri6a, Ri7a, Ri8a, identical or different, designating hydrogen or an alkyl group with 1 to 4 carbon atoms, - Ri8, R19, R20 and R2i, identical or different, designate hydrogen or an alkyl group with 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and - X is an anion chosen in particular from the group of halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, alkyl(Ci-C4)sulfates, alkyl(Ci-C4)sulfonates and alkyl(Ci-C4)aryl-sulfonates, in particular methylsulfate and ethylsulfate. Examples of such compounds include Finquat CT-P (Quaternium 89) and Finquat CT (Quaternium 75) offered by the company FINETEX. - quaternary ammonium salts containing one or more ester functions of the following formula (IVa): (G FL”, 0 ~ C^yOH)^—N^QHyOHX,—X (IVa) in which: - R22 is chosen from among the alkyl groups in C1-C6 and the hydroxyalkyl or dihydroxyalkyl groups in C1-C6, - R23 is chosen from the R26-C(=O)- group; the R27 hydrocarbon groups in Ci-C22, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated; and the hydrogen atom, - R25 is chosen from the R28-C(=O)- group; the R29 hydrocarbon groups in the form Ci-C6, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated; and the hydrogen atom, - R24, R26 and R28, identical or different, are chosen from among the C7-C2i hydrocarbon groups, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, - r, s and t, whether identical or different, are integers ranging from 2 to 6, - rl and tl, whether identical or different, are equal to 0 or 1, - y is an integer ranging from 1 to 10, - x and z, whether identical or different, are integers ranging from 0 to 10, - X is an anion, given that r2+ rl= 2r and tl+ t2= 2t, and that the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 15, provided that when x = 0 then R23 designates R27 and that when z = 0 then R25 designates R29.

[0099] The alkyl groups R22 may be linear or branched, preferably linear. Preferably, R22 designates a methyl, ethyl, hydroxyethyl or dihydroxypropyl group, and more particularly a methyl or ethyl group.

[0100] Advantageously, the sum x + y + z is worth from 1 to 10.

[0101] When R23 is a hydrocarbon R27 group, it can comprise from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, or from 1 to 3 carbon atoms.

[0102] When R25 is a hydrocarbon group R29, it preferably has 1 to 3 carbon atoms.

[0103] Advantageously, R24, R26 and R28, identical or different, are chosen from Cn-C2i hydrocarbon groups, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and more particularly from Cn-C2i alkyl and alkenyl groups, linear or branched.

[0104] Preferably, x and z, whether identical or different, are equal to 0 or 1.

[0105] Advantageously, y is equal to 1.

[0106] Preferably, r, s and t, whether identical or different, are equal to 2 or 3, and even more particularly are equal to 2.

[0107] Anion X is preferably a halide, preferably a chloride, bromide or iodide, an alkyl(Ci-C4)sulfate, an alkyl(Ci-C4)sulfonate or an alkyl(Ci-C4)arylsulfonate, a methanesulfonate, a phosphate, a nitrate, a tosylate, an anion derived from an organic acid such as an acetate or a lactate, or any other ammonium-compatible anion with an ester function. Anion X is more particularly a chloride, a methylsulfate, or an ethylsulfate.

[0108] In the composition according to the invention, ammonium salts of formula (IVa) are used more particularly, in which: - R22 designates a methyl or ethyl group, - x and y are equal to 1, - z is equal to 0 or 1, - r, s and t are equal to 2, - R23 is chosen from the R26-C(=O)- group; the methyl, ethyl or hydrocarbon groups in Ci4-C22, the hydrogen atom, - R25 is chosen from the R28-C(=O)- group; the hydrogen atom, - R24, R26 and R28, identical or different, are chosen from C13-C17 hydrocarbon groups, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and preferably from C13-C17 alkyl and alkenyl groups, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated.

[0109] Advantageously, hydrocarbon groups are linear.

[0110] When the composition according to the invention includes one or more additional cationic surfactants of formula (la), (Ha), (Ilia) and / or (IVa), these are necessarily chosen from among cationic surfactants other than cationic surfactants of formula (A) and fatty amine type cationic surfactants as previously described. [YES] Additional fats: The composition according to the invention may optionally further comprise at least one additional fatty substance, different from the vegetable waxes i) previously described, and the cationic surfactants ii) and iii) previously described.

[0112] Preferably, the composition according to the invention further comprises at least one additional fatty substance, different from the vegetable waxes i) previously described.

[0113] According to the invention, the additional fatty substance(s) are also different from the cationic surfactants ii) and iii) described above.

[0114] The term "fatty substance" means an organic compound insoluble in water at 25°C and atmospheric pressure (1.013 x 10⁵ Pa) (solubility less than 5% by weight, and preferably less than 1% by weight, and even more preferably less than 0.1% by weight). Its structure includes at least one hydrocarbon chain comprising at least six carbon atoms and / or a chain of at least two siloxane groups. Furthermore, fatty substances are generally soluble in organic solvents under the same temperature and pressure conditions, such as chloroform, dichloromethane, carbon tetrachloride, ethanol, benzene, toluene, tetrahydrofuran (THF), petrolatum, or decamethylcyclopentasiloxane.

[0115] The additional fatty substances usable in the present invention are neither (poly)oxyalkylated nor (poly)glycerolated.

[0116] Preferably, the optionally present additional fatty substances are non-siliconized, that is to say, they do not contain a Si-O group.

[0117] The additional fats used according to the invention may be liquid fats and / or solid fats. Liquid fats are defined as fats having a melting point of 25°C or lower at atmospheric pressure (1.013 x 10⁵ Pa). Solid fats are defined as fats having a melting point above 25°C at atmospheric pressure (1.013 x 10⁵ Pa).

[0118] For the purposes of the present invention, the melting point corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed in thermal analysis (differential scanning calorimetry or DSC) as described in ISO 11357-3; 1999. The melting point can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example, the calorimeter sold under the name "MDSC 2920" by TA Instruments. In the present application, all melting points are determined at atmospheric pressure (1.013 x 10⁵ Pa).

[0119] More particularly, the additional liquid fat(s) according to the invention can be chosen from liquid fatty acids, liquid hydrocarbons in C6 to Ci6, liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms, triglyceride-type oils of vegetable or synthetic origin, fluorinated oils, liquid fatty alcohols, liquid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols other than triglycerides, and mixtures thereof.

[0120] It is recalled that alcohols and fatty esters more particularly have at least one hydrocarbon group, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, comprising from 6 to 40, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, possibly substituted, in particular by one or more hydroxyl groups (in particular 1 to 4). If they are unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three carbon-carbon double bonds, conjugated or not.

[0121] By "fatty acids" is meant a long-chain carboxylic acid comprising at least 6 carbon atoms, in particular from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. The fatty acids according to the invention preferably comprise from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and better from 14 to 22 carbon atoms. They may optionally be hydroxylated.

[0122] Preferably, the fatty acids present in the composition according to the invention comprise at least one carboxylic acid group and an alkyl chain, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, in particular unsaturated, comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, more preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and better from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.

[0123] Preferably, the fatty acids comprise at least one carboxylic acid group and one alkyl chain, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, in particularly unsaturated, comprising 10 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular 14 to 22 carbon atoms.

[0124] Preferably, the fatty acids comprise at least one carboxylic acid group and one unsaturated linear or branched alkyl chain comprising 14 to 22 carbon atoms.

[0125] More preferably, the fatty acids according to the invention are chosen from compounds of RC(O)OH structure in which R represents an alkyl group, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 11 to 24 carbon atoms.

[0126] For the purposes of this invention, "liquid fatty acid" means a fatty acid having a melting point of less than or equal to 25°C, preferably less than or equal to 20°C at atmospheric pressure (1.013.105 Pa).

[0127] The liquid fatty acid(s) according to the invention may be chosen from oleic acid, linoleic acid, arachidonic acid, isostearic acid, isopalmitic acid, and mixtures thereof, preferably oleic acid

[0128] With regard to liquid hydrocarbons in the C6 to C16 range, these may be linear, branched, possibly cyclic, and are preferably chosen from among the alkanes. By way of example, hexane, cyclohexane, undecane, dodecane, isododecane, tridecane, isoparaffins such as isohexadecane, isodecane, and mixtures thereof may be cited.

[0129] Liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms may be linear or branched, of mineral or synthetic origin, and are preferably chosen from paraffin or petrolatum oils, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam®, and mixtures thereof.

[0130] Triglyceride oils of vegetable or synthetic origin are preferably chosen from among the liquid triglycerides of fatty acids comprising 6 to 30 carbon atoms such as the triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acid or, for example, sunflower, corn, soybean, pumpkin, grapeseed, sesame, hazelnut, apricot, macadamia, arara, sunflower, castor, avocado oils, caprylic / capric acid triglycerides such as those sold by Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol® 810, 812 and 818 by Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil, shea butter oil, and mixtures thereof.

[0131] As regards fluorinated oils, these may be selected from perfluoromethylcyclopentane and perfluoro-1,3-dimethylcyclohexane, sold under the names "FLUTEC® PCI" and "FLUTEC® PC3" by BNFL Fluorochemicals; perfluoro-1,2-dimethylcyclobutane; perfluoroalkanes such as dodecafluoropentane and tetradecafluorohexane, sold under the names "PF 5050®" and "PF 5060®" by 3M, or bromoperfluorooctyl sold under the name "FORALKYL®" by Atochem; nonafluoromethoxybutane and nonafluoroethoxyisobutane; perfluoromorpholine derivatives, such as 4-trifluoromethyl perfluoromorpholine sold under the name "PF 5052®" by 3M.

[0132] Liquid fatty alcohols suitable for implementing the invention are particularly selected from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alcohols, preferably unsaturated or branched, having from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. These fatty alcohols are neither oxyalkylated nor glycerolated. Examples include octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleic alcohol, linolenic alcohol, ricinoleic alcohol, undecylenic alcohol, and linoleic alcohol, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, oleic alcohol is used.

[0133] With regard to liquid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols, other than the triglycerides mentioned above, one may mention in particular the esters of saturated or unsaturated mono- or poly-aliphatic acids, linear in C1 to C26 or branched in C3 to C26 and of saturated or unsaturated mono- or poly-aliphatic alcohols, linear in C1 to C26 or branched in C3 to C26, the total number of carbons of the esters being greater than or equal to 6, more advantageously greater than or equal to 10.

[0134] Preferably, for monoalcohol esters, at least one of the alcohol or acid is branched.

[0135] Among the monoesters, the following may be mentioned: dihydroabietyl behenate; octyldodecyl behenate; isocetyl behenate; isostearyl lactate; lauryl lactate; linoleyl lactate; oleyl lactate; isostearyl octanoate; isocetyl octanoate; octyl octanoate; decyl oleate; isocetyl isostearate; isocetyl laurate; isocetyl stearate; isodecyl octanoate; isodecyl oleate; isononyl isononanoate; isostearyl palmitate; methyl acetyl ricinoleate; octyl isononanoate; 2-ethylhexyl isononate; octyldodecyl erucate; oleyl erucate; ethyl and isopropyl palmitates, such as ethyl-2-hexyl palmitate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate; alkyl myristates such as isopropyl myristate; isobutyl stearate; 2-hexyldecyl laurate, and mixtures thereof.

[0136] Preferably among monoesters of monoacids and monoalcohols, ethyl and isopropyl palmitates, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl or ethyl myristate, isocetyl stearate, ethyl-2-hexyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof will be used.

[0137] Esters of di- or tricarboxylic acids in C4 to C22 and of alcohols in C1 to C22 and esters of mono-, di-, or tricarboxylic acids and di-, tri-, tetra- or pentahydroxy alcohols in C2 to C26-

[0138] Examples include: diethyl sebacate; diisopropyl sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; din-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; diisostearyl adipate; dioctyl maleate; glyceryl undecylenate; octyldodecyl stearoyl stearate; pentaerythrityl monoricinoleate; pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate; pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate; pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate; pentaerythrityl tetraoctanoate; propylene glycol dicaprylate; propylene glycol dicaprate; tridecyl erucate; triisopropyl citrate; triisotearyl citrate; glyceryl trilactate; glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate; propylene glycol dioctanoate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; diethylene glycol diisanonate; polyethylene glycol distearates, and mixtures thereof.

[0139] The composition may also include, as a fatty ester, esters and diesters of sugars of fatty acids in the ranges of C6 to C30, preferably C12 to C22. It is recalled that the term "sugar" means oxygenated hydrocarbon compounds possessing several alcohol functional groups, with or without aldehyde or ketone functional groups, and comprising at least four carbon atoms. These sugars may be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides, or polysaccharides other than the anionic polysaccharides described below.

[0140] Suitable sugars may be cited for example sucrose (or saccharose), glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose, lactose, and their derivatives in particular alkylated, such as methylated derivatives like methylglucose.

[0141] Sugar and fatty acid esters may be selected in particular from the group comprising the esters or mixtures of sugar esters described above and fatty acids in the ranges of C6 to C30, preferably C12 to C22, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated. If unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three carbon-carbon double bonds, conjugated or not.

[0142] Esters can also be selected from mono-, di-, tri- and tetra-esters, polyesters and their mixtures.

[0143] These esters may be, for example, oleate, laurate, palmitate, myristate, behenate, cocoate, stearate, linoleate, linolenate, caprate, arachidonate, or mixtures thereof, such as mixed oleo-palmitate, oleo-stearate, palmito-stearate esters.

[0144] More particularly, mono- and di- esters are used, and in particular mono- or di- oleate, stearate, behenate, oleopalmitate, linoleate, linolenate, oleostearate, of sucrose, glucose or methylglucose, and mixtures thereof.

[0145] An example is the product sold under the name Glucate® DO by the company Amerchol, which is a methylglucose dioleate.

[0146] Preferably, a liquid ester of monoacid and monoalcohol will be used.

[0147] Preferably, the additional fats can be chosen from liquid fats, preferably from liquid hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, vegetable oils, liquid fatty alcohols and liquid fatty esters and mixtures thereof, more preferably from vegetable oils and liquid fatty esters, as well as mixtures thereof.

[0148] The additional solid fat(s) are preferably chosen from solid fatty alcohols, solid fatty acids, solid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols, mineral or synthetic waxes, other than vegetable waxes, ceramides, and mixtures thereof.

[0149] By "fatty alcohol" is meant a long-chain aliphatic alcohol comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, and comprising at least one hydroxyl group OH. These fatty alcohols are neither oxyalkylated nor glycerolated.

[0150] Solid fatty alcohols may be saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and comprise from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms. Preferably, solid fatty alcohols have the structure R-OH with R denoting a linear alkyl group, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups, comprising from 8 to 40, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, or even from 12 to 24 atoms, and even better from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.

[0151] The solid fatty alcohols that can be used are preferably chosen from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched (mono)alcohols, preferably linear and saturated, comprising 8 to 40 carbon atoms, better 10 to 30, or even 12 to 24 atoms, even better 14 to 22 carbon atoms.

[0152] The solid fatty alcohols that may be used may be selected from, alone or in mixture: myristic or myristyl alcohol (or 1-tetradecanol); cetyl alcohol (or 1-hexadecanol); stearyl alcohol (or 1-octadecanol); arachidyl alcohol (or 1-eicosanol); behenyl alcohol (or 1-docosanol); lignoceryl alcohol (or 1-tetracosanol); ceryl alcohol (or 1-hexacosanol); montanyyl alcohol (or 1-octacosanol); myricyl alcohol (or 1-triacontanol).

[0153] Preferably, the solid fatty alcohol is chosen from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, myristic alcohol, arachidic alcohol and mixtures thereof, such as cetylstearyl or cetearyl alcohol. In a way The particularly preferred solid fatty alcohol is cetostearyl or cetearyl alcohol.

[0154] For the purposes of this invention, "solid fatty acid" means a fatty acid having a melting point above 25°C, preferably above or equal to 28°C, more preferably above or equal to 30°C at atmospheric pressure (1.013.105 Pa).

[0155] The solid fatty acids used in the present invention are in particular selected from myristic acid, cetyl acid, stearylic acid, cetyl acid, arachidic acid, stearic acid, lauric acid, behenic acid, 12-hydroxystearic acid and mixtures thereof.

[0156] In a particularly preferred manner, the solid fatty acid(s) are chosen from lauric acid, myristic acid, cetyl acid, stearic acid.

[0157] The solid fatty acid and / or fatty alcohol esters that may be used are preferably selected from esters derived from C9-C26 carboxylic fatty acids and / or C9-C26 fatty alcohols.

[0158] Preferably, these solid fatty acid esters are esters of saturated linear or branched carboxylic acids comprising at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and more particularly from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, and of saturated linear or branched monoalcohols comprising at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and more particularly from 12 to 24 carbon atoms. The saturated carboxylic acids may optionally be hydroxylated, and are preferably monocarboxylic acids.

[0159] Esters of di- or tricarboxylic acids in C4-C22 and of alcohols in Ci-C22 and esters of mono-, di- or tricarboxylic acids and of di-, tri-, tetra- or pentahydroxylated alcohols in C2-C26 can also be used.

[0160] Examples include octyldodecyl behenate, isocetyl behenate, cetyl lactate, stearyl octanoate, octyl octanoate, cetyl octanoate, decyl oleate, hexyl stearate, octyl stearate, myristyle stearate, cetyl stearate, stearyl stearate, octyl pelargonate, cetyl myristate, myristyle myristate, stearyl myristate, diethyl sebacate, diisopropyl sebacate, diisopropyl adipate, din-propyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, maleate dioctyl, octyl palmitate, myristyle palmitate, cetyl palmitate, stearyl palmitate, and mixtures thereof.

[0161] Preferably, the solid fatty acid and / or fatty alcohol esters are selected from C9-C26 alkyl palmitates, in particular myristyle, cetyl, stearyl palmitates; C9-C26 alkyl myristates such as cetyl myristate, stearyl myristate and myristyle myristate; C9-C26 alkyl stearates, in particular myristyle, cetyl and stearyl stearates; and mixtures thereof.

[0162] Preferably, solid fatty acid and / or fatty alcohol esters are selected from compounds with the INCI name cetyl esters.

[0163] Waxes other than vegetable waxes suitable for the invention can be chosen from mineral waxes, non-siliconized synthetic waxes and their mixtures.

[0164] Examples include non-vegetable microcrystalline waxes, paraffins, ozokerite, polyethylene waxes, waxes obtained by Fisher-Tropsch synthesis, waxy copolymers, and their esters.

[0165] We can also mention non-vegetable microcrystalline waxes in C2o to C60, such as Microwax HW.

[0166] We can also mention PM 500 polyethylene wax marketed under the reference Permalen 50-L polyethylene.

[0167] As a wax, an alkyl (hydroxystearyloxy)stearate in C2O to C4O (the alkyl group comprising 20 to 40 carbon atoms) can also be used, alone or in a mixture. Such a wax is notably sold under the names "Kester Wax K 82 P®", "Hydroxypolyester K 82 P®" and "Kester Wax K 80 P®" by the company KOSTER KEUNEN.

[0168] It is also possible to use synthetic microwaxes in the compositions of the invention, such as those marketed under the name MicroEase 114S ® by MICRO POWDERS, polyethylene microwaxes, such as those marketed under the names Micropoly 200®, 220® 220L® and 250S® by MICRO POWDERS and polytetrafluoroethylene microwaxes, such as those marketed under the names Microslip 519® and 519 L® by MICRO POWDERS.

[0169] Waxes other than vegetable waxes are preferably chosen from mineral waxes such as paraffin wax, petroleum jelly, lignite or ozokerite; microcrystalline waxes; and mixtures thereof.

[0170] Ceramides or ceramide analogues such as glycoceramides, which can be used in compositions according to the invention, are known; in particular, ceramides of classes I, II, III and V according to the DAWNING classification may be mentioned.

[0171] Ceramides or their analogues that may be used preferably correspond to the following formula: R3CH(OH)CH(CH2OR2)(NHCOR'), in which: R1 designates an alkyl group, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, derived from fatty acids in Ci4-C30, this group being able to be substituted by a hydroxyl group in the alpha position, or a hydroxyl group in the omega position esterified by a saturated or unsaturated fatty acid in Ci6-C30; R2 denotes hydrogen atony, a (glycosyl)n group, a (galactosyl)m group or a sulfogalactosyl group, where n is an integer ranging from 1 to 4 and m is an integer ranging from 1 to 8; R3 designates a hydrocarbon group in C15-C26, saturated or unsaturated in the alpha position, this group being able to be substituted by one or more alkyl groups in C1-C14; it being understood that in the case of natural ceramides or glycoceramides, R3 can also designate an alpha-hydroxyalkyl group in Ci5-C26, the hydroxyl group possibly being esterified by an alpha-hydroxy acid in Ci6-C30.

[0172] The ceramides most particularly preferred are the compounds for which R1 designates a saturated or unsaturated alkyl derived from fatty acids in Ci6-C22; R2 designates a hydrogen atom and R3 designates a linear group saturated in C15.

[0173] Preferably, ceramides are used in which R1 designates a saturated or unsaturated alkyl group derived from C14-C30 fatty acids; R2 designates a galactosyl or sulfogalactosyl group; and R3 designates a -CH=CH-(CH2)i2-CH3 group.

[0174] Compounds can also be used in which R1 designates a saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical derived from fatty acids in C[2-C22]; R2 designates a galactosyl or sulfogalactosyl radical and R3 designates a hydrocarbon radical in C[2-C22], saturated or unsaturated and preferably a -CH=CH-(CH2)i2-CH3 group.

[0175] As particularly preferred compounds, we may also mention 2-N-linoleoylamino-octadecane-l,3-diol; 2-N-oleoylamino-octadecane-l,3-diol; 2-N-palmitoylamino-octadecane-l,3-diol; 2-N-stearoylamino-octadecane-l,3-diol; 2-N-behenoylamino-octadecane-l,3-diol; 2-N-[2-hydroxy-palmitoyl]-amino-octadecane-l,3-diol; 2-N-stearoyl amino-octadecane-1,3,4-triol, and in particular N-stearoyl phytosphingosine, 2-N-palmitoylamino-hexadecane-1,3-diol, N-linoleoyldihydrosphingosine, N-oleoyldihydrosphingosine, N-palmitoyldihydrosphingosine, N-stearoyldihydrosphingosine, and N-behenoyldihydrosphingosine, N-docosanoyl N-methyl-D-glucamine, cetyl acid N-(2-hydroxyethyl)-N-(3-cetyloxy-2-hydroxypropyl)amide, and bis-(N-hydroxyethyl N-cetyl)malonamide; and mixtures thereof. Preferably, N-oleoyldihydrosphingosine shall be used.

[0176] The additional solid fats are advantageously chosen from solid fatty alcohols, solid fatty acid and / or fatty alcohol esters, and mixtures thereof; more preferably from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, mixtures of cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol such as cetylstearyl or cetearyl alcohol, solid C9-C26 carboxylic acid and / or C9-C26 fatty alcohol esters such as compounds with INCI name Cetyl Esters, and mixtures thereof.

[0177] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more additional solid fats; more preferably selected from (a) solid C8-C30 fatty alcohols such as cetearyl alcohol, (b) C9-C26 alkyl palmitates, in particular myristyle, cetyl, stearyl palmitates, (c) C9-C26 alkyl myristates such as cetyl myristate, stearyl myristate and myristyle myristate, (d) C9-C26 alkyl stearates, in particular myristyle, cetyl and stearyl stearates, (e) and mixtures thereof; more preferably among a) mixtures of solid C8-C30 fatty alcohols such as cetostearyl or cetearyl alcohol, (b) C9-C26 alkyl palmitates, (c) C9-C26 alkyl myristates, (d) C9-C26 alkyl stearates, (e) and mixtures thereof.

[0178] Preferably, the total content of the additional fat(s), when present, varies from 1% to 25% by weight, more preferably from 5% to 20% by weight, better from 7% to 18% by weight, even better from 10% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0179] Preferably, the total content of the additional solid fat(s), when present in the composition, varies from 1% to 25% by weight, more preferably from 5% to 20% by weight, better from 7% to 18% by weight, even better from 10% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0180] Preferably, the total content of additional solid fats selected from solid C6-C40 fatty alcohols, solid C9-C26 fatty acid carboxylic acid esters and / or C9-C26 fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof, such as cetearyl alcohol, varies from 1% to 25% by weight, more preferably from 5% to 20% by weight, and better from 7% to 18% by weight, even better from 10% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0181] Preferably, the total content of the solid C6-C40 fatty alcohol(s), when present in the composition, varies from 1% to 25% by weight, more preferably from 3% to 20% by weight, and better from 5% to 12% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0182] Preferably, the weight ratio of the vegetable wax(s) content (i) to the total fat content in the composition is from 0.01 to 0.7, more preferably from 0.03 to 0.6, even more preferably from 0.05 to 0.5, better from 0.08 to 0.4. It is understood that the fats according to the invention correspond to the additional fats and the vegetable waxes (i).

[0183] Polyols: Advantageously, the composition according to the invention may optionally further comprise one or more polyols.

[0184] For the purposes of this invention, "polyol" means an organic compound consisting of a hydrocarbon chain, preferably C2-C30, more preferably C3-C12, even more preferably C3-C5, optionally interrupted by one or more oxygen atoms and bearing at least two free hydroxyl groups (-OH) on different carbon atoms, this compound being able to be cyclic or acyclic, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated.

[0185] Preferably, the polyols are different from fatty alcohols as defined above.

[0186] More particularly, the polyol(s) comprise from 2 to 30 hydroxy groups, more preferably from 2 to 10 hydroxy groups, more preferably still from 2 to 3 hydroxy groups.

[0187] The polyol(s) are preferably selected from diglycerin, glycerin, propylene glycol, propane-1,3-diol, 1,3-butylene glycol, pentane-1,2-diol, octane-1,2-diol, dipropylene glycol, hexylene glycol, ethylene glycol, polyethylene glycols, sorbitol, sugars such as glucose and mixtures thereof, preferably from glycerin, propane-1,3-diol and mixtures thereof

[0188] Preferably, the composition comprises one or more polyols selected from diglycerin, glycerin, propylene glycol, propane-1,3-diol, 1,3-butylene glycol, pentane-1,2-diol, octane-1,2-diol, dipropylene glycol, hexylene glycol, ethylene glycol, polyethylene glycols, sorbitol, sugars such as glucose and mixtures thereof, preferably from glycerin, propane-1,3-diol, and mixtures thereof.

[0189] Preferably, the composition comprises one or more polyols selected from propylene glycol, propane-1,3-diol, glycerin and mixtures thereof, preferably propylene glycol, glycerin, preferably glycerin.

[0190] Preferably, when present in the composition, the polyol(s) are present in a total content ranging from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, better from 0.2% to 4% by weight, and even better from 0.3% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0191] Water Preferably, the composition according to the invention further comprises water.

[0192] Preferably, the total water content is in the range of 55% to 98% by weight, preferably 60% to 95% by weight, more preferably 65% ​​to 92% by weight, even more preferably 70% to 90% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0193] pH Preferably, the pH of the composition is between 3 and 9, more preferably between 3.1 and 7, more preferably still between 3.2 and 6, better between 3.5 and 5.5.

[0194] The pH can be adjusted to the desired value by means of alkalizing agents or acidifying agents commonly used.

[0195] Examples of acidifying agents include mineral or organic acids such as hydrochloric acid, orthophosphoric acid, carboxylic acids such as acetic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, lactic acid, and sulfonic acids.

[0196] Among the alkalizing agents, ammonia, mineral or organic hydroxides can be cited.

[0197] Preferably, an acidifying agent is used to adjust the pH, more preferably lactic acid.

[0198] Additives The composition according to the invention may further contain additives commonly used in cosmetics, such as antifoaming agents, thickening agents other than those previously described, moisturizing agents, clays, mineral fillers, UV filters, perfumes, non-ionic or amphoteric surfactants, vitamins, preservatives, and mixtures thereof. These additives may be present in the composition according to the invention in an amount ranging from 0 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0199] A person skilled in the art shall take care to choose any such additives and their quantities so that they do not impair the properties of the compositions of the present invention.

[0200] The composition according to the invention may optionally be formulated in the form of a cream.

[0201] The invention also relates to a cosmetic treatment process, in particular for hair, of keratinous materials, in particular keratinous fibers, preferably a conditioning process for keratinous fibers, comprising at least one step of applying to the keratinous fibers a composition as defined above.

[0202] The application of the composition according to the invention to keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers such as hair, can be carried out on dry or wet hair, preferably wet, as well as on all types of hair, light or dark, natural or colored, permed, bleached or straightened.

[0203] The application of the composition according to the invention to keratinous materials, in particular human keratinous fibers such as hair, can be carried out by any conventional means, in particular by means of a comb, a brush, a sponge, a hot water bottle, an applicator, a sponge or with the fingers.

[0204] The application of the composition according to the invention is preferably carried out between 25°C and 40°C.

[0205] Advantageously, the application of the composition according to the invention is followed by a setting time ranging from 1 to 60 minutes, preferably from 2 to 30 minutes, more preferably from 2 to 10 minutes.

[0206] Preferably, a water rinsing step is carried out after the application of the composition according to the invention on the keratinous materials and after a possible setting time.

[0207] Another object of the invention is the use of the composition as described above, for hair treatment, preferably for hair care and conditioning.

[0208] The following examples serve to illustrate the invention without, however, being intended to be limiting. Examples#:

[0209] Example 1: Composition A according to the invention and the comparative composition B as described in the table below were prepared. The quantities are expressed as % by weight of active ingredient (ma).

[0210] [Tables 1] Ingredients A (invention) B (comparative) Jojoba wax(1) 5 - Jojoba butter(2) - 5 Stearamidopropyl dimethylamine 1 1 Distearoylethyldiimonium chloride 2.9 2.9 Cetearyl alcohol 9.5 9.5 Glycerin 0.5 0.5 Lactic acid 0.3 0.3 Preservatives qs qs Fragrance qs qs Water qsp 100 qsp 100

[0211] (1) melting point = 50°C (2) melting point = 35°C

[0212] Thick creams are obtained, white in color and with a smooth and shiny appearance, which can be used as a rinse-off hair care composition (such as conditioner, after-shampoo, mask...).

[0213] Application protocol for sensory evaluation:

[0214] The above compositions are applied to SA20 sensitized Caucasian hair strands.

[0215] The strands are pre-cleaned by applying a standard treatment shampoo (L'Oréal Paris - Elseve DreamLong Reconstructing Shampoo) at a rate of 0.3g of shampoo per gram of strand. The strands are massaged until the shampoo lathers. The strands are then rinsed with water.

[0216] Each composition A and B is applied to one of the washed and still wet strands, at a rate of 0.45g of composition per gram of strand, then the strands are left to air dry for 5 minutes. The strands are then rinsed with water for 10 seconds.

[0217] Sensory evaluation protocol and results obtained:

[0218] In application, experts note that the melting character of the composition is more marked for the composition according to the invention than for the comparative composition.

[0219] After the above treatment, the hair strands were evaluated blindly by a panel of 6 people selected and trained for the sensory evaluation of hair strands.

[0220] The evaluation was carried out on the coating of the compositions on wet hair.

[0221] The evaluation is carried out blindly, as follows: the expert takes the take a strand of hair and slide your fingers from root to tip, and thus assess the presence and homogeneity of a deposit.

[0222] Each expert gives a score from 0 to 5, in increments of 0.5. The more significant and homogeneous the deposit, the better the hair is coated and the better the hair's imperfections are masked.

[0223] The scores correspond to the criteria below: 0 = very poor coating of the hair by the composition, the roughness of the hair is very strongly felt (the hair appears untreated) 1 = hair very lightly coated by the formula, the hair's roughness is strongly felt 2 = hair not very coated by the formula, the hair's texture is clearly visible 3 = hair is moderately coated by the formula; the hair's roughness is moderately felt. 4 = hair is well coated by the formula, and any roughness in the hair is barely noticeable. 5 = hair very well coated by the formula (no more roughness of the hair is perceptible to the touch: the formula has perfectly treated the hair)

[0224] The rating of 3 is given for reference to the comparative composition.

[0225] The results are as follows:

[0226] [Tables2] Individualization A (Invention) B (Comparative) Expert 1 4 3 Expert 2 4 3 Expert 3 3.5 3 Expert 4 4 3 Expert 5 3.5 3 Expert 6 4 3 Mean 3.8 3 Standard deviation 0.2 0.0

[0227] These results show an improvement in hair coating with the composition according to the invention compared to the coating obtained with the comparative composition.

[0228] Hair treated with the composition according to the invention appears better treated, with less aporia and is more repaired than hair treated with the comparative composition.

[0229] Example 2: Composition C according to the invention, as described in the table below, was prepared. Quantities are expressed as % by weight of active ingredient (ma). Ingredients C (invention) Rice bran wax 1.8 Stearamidopropyl dimethylamine 0.8 Distearoylethyl dimonium chloride 2.5 Cetearyl alcohol 6.7 Glycerin 0.5 Cetyl esters 2 C10-C18 triglycerides 5 Lactic acid 0.3 Preservatives qs Parfum qs Water qsp 100

[0230] Composition C spreads easily on the hair and has a very good melting character upon application.

[0231] It leads to very good cosmetic properties, particularly in terms of homogeneous coating of the fiber and the smooth feel of the hair. It is also noted that hair treated with composition C according to the invention has more body.

Claims

Demands

1. Composition comprising: (i) at least one vegetable wax; (ii) at least one first cationic surfactant selected from fatty amines; (iii) at least one second cationic surfactant of the following formula (A): RR (A) Rf"' ' 0" '"''X:'" 'Ar"' in which: - Ri and R2 represent, independently of each other, a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C7-C40 hydrocarbon group, - R3 and R4, independently of each other, are selected from a) C1-C4 alkyl groups, b) C1-C4 hydroxyalkyl groups, and c) C1-C4 dihydroxyalkyl groups, - A and A' represent, independently of each other, a Ci-C6 alkyl group, and - X represents an anion.

2. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the vegetable wax(s) are chosen from jojoba wax, rice bran wax, Camauba wax, Candelilla wax, sunflower wax, and mixtures thereof; more preferably from jojoba wax, rice bran wax, and mixtures thereof, better from rice bran wax.

3. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the total content of vegetable wax(s) is in the range of 0.01% to 20% by weight, more preferably 0.1% to 15% by weight, even more preferably 0.5% to 12% by weight, better 1% to 10% by weight, even better 1.5% to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

4. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that said first cationic surfactant(s) are selected from fatty amidoamines; preferably from oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine, steramidoethyl diethylamine, and mixtures thereof; more preferably among stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine and mixtures thereof; better among stearamidopropyl dimethylamine.

5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the total content of first cationic surfactant(s) selected from fatty amines is in the range of 0.01% to 10% by weight, more preferably 0.1% to 8% by weight, more preferably between 0.2% and 5% by weight, and better from 0.5% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the second cationic surfactant(s) of formula (A) are such that: - Ri and R2 independently represent a hydrocarbon group in C7-C3o, more preferably in C9-C2i, even more preferably in Cn-Cp; - A and A' independently represent an alkyl group in Ci-C4, more preferably in Ci-C2, even more preferably in C2, preferably A and A' are identical; - R3 represents an alkyl group in Ci-C4, more preferably in Ci-C2, better R3 represents a methyl group.- R4 represents a hydroxyalkyl group in CrC4, more preferably a hydroxyalkyl group in Ci-C2 or an alkyl group in CrC4, more preferably in CrC2, better R4 represents a methyl group; - X represents a) a halide, preferably chloride, bromide or iodide, b) an alkyl(Ci-C4)sulfate, c) an alkyl(Ci-C4)sulfonate, d) an alkyl(Ci-C4)aryl-sulfonate, e) a phosphate, f) a nitrate, g) a tosylate, h) an anion derived from an organic acid such as an acetate or a lactate; more preferably anion X represents a) a halide or b) an alkyl(CrC4)sulfate; more preferably still, anion X represents a chloride ion or a methosulfate group.

7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the second cationic surfactant(s) of formula (A) are selected from dicocoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, dipalmitoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, distearoylethyl dimonium chloride, dioleoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, dioleoylethyl dimonium chloride, dipalmitoylethyl dimonium chloride, distearoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, and mixtures thereof; more preferably among dicocoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, dipalmitoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, distearoylethyl dimonium chloride, dioleoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, and mixtures thereof; even more preferably among distearoylethyl dimonium chloride.

8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the total content of second cationic surfactant(s) of formula (A) is in the range of 0.01% to 15% by weight; more preferably 0.1% to 10% by weight; more preferably still between 1% and 8% by weight; better from 1.5% to 7% by weight, even better from 2% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the total content of first and second cationic surfactants ii) and iii) is in the range of 0.02% to 20%; more preferably 0.1% to 15%; even more preferably 1% to 10%; better 2% to 7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises at least one additional fatty substance, other than vegetable waxes (i) and cationic surfactants (ii) and (iii); preferably selected from solid fats; preferably from (a) solid C8-C30 fatty alcohols, (b) C9-C26 alkyl palmitates, (c) C9-C26 alkyl myristates, (d) C9-C26 alkyl stearates, (e) and mixtures thereof; more preferentially among a) mixtures of solid C8-C30 fatty alcohols, (b) C9-C26 alkyl palmitates, (c) C9-C26 alkyl myristates, (d) C9-C26 alkyl stearates, (e) and mixtures thereof.

11. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the weight ratio of the wax content(s) vegetable(s) (i) on the total fat content ranges from 0.01 to 0.7, more preferably from 0.03 to 0.6, even more preferably from 0.05 to 0.5, better from 0.08 to 0.

4.

12. A cosmetic treatment process, in particular for hair, of keratinous materials, in particular keratinous fibers, preferably a conditioning process for keratinous fibers, comprising at least one step of applying to said keratinous materials a composition as defined according to any one of claims 1 to 11.