Ingredients including sea buckthorn extract and rosehip extract

Abstract

Cosmetic ingredient comprising at least one first plant extract of the order Proteales, and at least one second plant extract of the order Rosales, preferably from the family Rosaceae, preferably of the species Rosa canina.

Description

Title of the invention: Ingredient comprising sea buckthorn extract and rosehip extract

[0001] The present invention relates to the technical field of cosmetic ingredients comprising combinations of active cosmetic compounds, preferably obtained by particular extraction methods.

[0002] For the purposes of this description, an interval described by the expression "between [...] and [...]" includes the bounds. For example, the interval "between 1 and 2" includes the two values ​​"1" and "2" as well as all values ​​that are both strictly greater than 1 and strictly less than 2.

[0003] In the context of this description, the term "approximately" preceding a numeric value means that the value can be changed by plus or minus 10%. In the specific case of a numeric value being an interval limit, the term "approximately" means that the lower limit can be increased or decreased by 10% and / or the upper limit can be increased or decreased by 10%. It is also possible to omit the term "approximately" preceding a numeric value.

[0004] Rosehip oil is a vegetable oil extracted from rosehips, primarily Rosa canina. This oil is used in cosmetics.

[0005] Sea buckthorn oil is a vegetable oil extracted from the sea buckthorn tree (Hippophae rhamnoides), a thorny shrub belonging to the Elaeagnaceae family. This oil is also used in cosmetics.

[0006] Supercritical carbon dioxide extraction is an extraction method that uses carbon dioxide in a supercritical state as a solvent to extract compounds of interest from various raw materials. Carbon dioxide is considered supercritical when it is subjected to specific temperature and pressure conditions that allow it to be in a liquid state. It is then used as a solvent and is very effective for extracting, for example, organic compounds such as essential oils, pigments, fatty acids, sterols, terpenes, alkaloids, flavonoids, etc. Supercritical carbon dioxide extraction has certain advantages over other extraction methods, notably the possibility of using no solvent or organic co-solvent. It also has several disadvantages related to the implementation of the process.First, the equipment needed for supercritical carbon dioxide extraction is expensive and bulky. Second, this method is very complex to operate and requires numerous development steps. are necessary. Finally, this method provides only a low yield on certain compounds.

[0007] In the prior art, a number of plant oil combinations are described.

[0008] Thus, in application FR3066916 filed on behalf of LABORATOIRE DERMATOLOGIQUE INDERMA, a plant complex composed of birch sap and chaga extract is presented for cosmetic applications. This complex is presented as offering benefits by protecting the skin from external aggressors such as UV rays and by soothing irritated skin. It is also presented as being capable of strengthening the skin's natural defenses and antioxidant capacity through the stimulation of superoxide dismutase and catalase.

[0009] Furthermore, in application WO2022208005 filed on behalf of CREDO, a cosmetic composition is disclosed that incorporates at least one extract of birch sap and one extract of beech bud, either aqueous or oily, with a cosmetically acceptable vehicle. This invention is specifically aimed at cosmetic and dermatological applications and is presented as improving the aesthetics of the skin. It proposes an action through the stimulation of epidermal cell proliferation, hydration, and protection against external aggressions such as pollution. In particular, the inventors have identified, in a seemingly unexpected manner, the beneficial effects of their composition on the skin's barrier function and on cell regeneration.

[0010] Finally, in application WO2004006881 filed on behalf of CAUDALIE, cosmetic applications of polyphenols and their derivatives for skin whitening and spot reduction are disclosed. These compositions incorporate epsilon-viniferin, mixtures of resveratrol and epsilon-viniferin, as well as resveratrol oligomers and polymers, chosen for their ability to inhibit the tyrosinase enzyme more effectively than resveratrol alone. Offered in creams, gels, and lotions, these formulations contain 0.1 to 5% polyphenols and are presented as promoting reduced pigmentation and improved stability compared to traditional agents such as kojic acid.

[0011] Compositions comprising at least one of the two aforementioned oils are disclosed in the prior art.

[0012] For example, in application CN117653561 filed by CHANGSHA DAIXI BIOLOGICAL TECHNOLOGY, an anti-aging composition is disclosed, comprising, among other things, a vegetable oil. This vegetable oil may be sea buckthorn oil or rosehip oil. These oils are considered to be rich in omega-3 fatty acids.

[0013] Furthermore, in application EP3120712 filed in the name of EVONIK DEGUSSA, a supercritical CO2 extraction process is disclosed for obtaining an extract from plants, for example sea buckthorn or rosehip. This extraction is followed by a second extraction using a solvent, such as hexane or ethanol. The use of such solvents is always problematic.

[0014] Combinations of oils extracted from rosehip and sea buckthorn are also described.

[0015] Thus, in application WO2024073011 filed on behalf of ERESINA, LLC, topical compositions and methods of treatment for dermal and transdermal fibrotic diseases and disorders, as well as associated pain and inflammation, are described. These conditions include Dupuytren's disease, Dupuytren's contracture, Ledderhose disease, Peyronie's disease, scleroderma, and Raynaud's phenomenon, as well as wound healing. Incidentally, a composition comprising rosehip oil and sea buckthorn oil is described.

[0016] Considering the prior art uncovered, it appears that improved plant oil combinations need to be developed.

[0017] Surprisingly, the applicant has discovered a new cosmetic ingredient comprising a combination of oils exhibiting improved properties, particularly with regard to antioxidant properties.

[0018] The invention thus relates to a cosmetic ingredient comprising: - at least one first plant extract from the order Proteales, preferably from the family Elaeagnaceae, preferably from a genus chosen from the group consisting of the genera Elaeganus, Shepherdia and Hippophae, preferably from the genus Hippophae; and - at least one second plant extract from the order Rosales, preferably from the family Rosaceae, preferably from a genus chosen from the group consisting of the genera Prunus, Pyrus, Malus, Fragaria, Rubus, Rosa, Cotoneaster, Spiraea, Crataegus and Sorbus, preferably from the genus Rosa, preferably from a species chosen from the group consisting of Rosa gallica, Rosa rugosa, Rosa damascena, Rosa chinensis, Rosa canina, Rosa banksiae, Rosa multiflora, Rosa foetida, Rosa alba and Rosa moyesii, preferably from the species Rosa canina.

[0019] In one embodiment, the mass ratio of the first extract to the second extract is between approximately 0.1 and approximately 10, preferably between approximately 0.1 and approximately 10, preferably between approximately 0.2 and approximately 9, preferably between approximately 0.2 and approximately 8, preferably between approximately 0.3 and approximately 7, preferably between approximately 0.4 and approximately 6, preferably between approximately 0.5 and approximately 5, preferably between approximately 0.6 and approximately 4, preferably between approximately 0.7 and approximately 3, preferably between approximately 0.7 and approximately 2, preferably between approximately 0.7 and approximately 1.3, preferably between approximately 0.8 and approximately 1.2, preferably approximately 1. In the preferred embodiment, the two extracts are therefore present in the same mass quantities.

[0020] In one embodiment, said cosmetic ingredient comprises at least a first extract of a plant of the genus Hippophae and at least a second extract of the species Rosa canina.

[0021] In one embodiment, said cosmetic ingredient comprises at least a first extract of the plant species Hippophae rhamnoides and at least a second extract of the species Rosa canina.

[0022] In one embodiment, said first extract is obtained from a plant constituent selected from the group consisting of fruits, seeds, and mixtures thereof, preferably seeds. In one embodiment, said first extract of the species Hippophae rhamnoides is obtained from a plant constituent selected from the group consisting of fruits, seeds, and mixtures thereof, preferably a mixture thereof.

[0023] In one embodiment, said first extract, preferably the Hippophae rhamnoides extract, is obtained by means of a supercritical carbon dioxide extraction.

[0024] In one embodiment, said first extract, preferably the Hippophae rhamnoides extract, exhibits at least 1, and preferably both of the following properties:

[0025] - total carotenoid content greater than approximately 250 mg per kilogram of said first extract, preferably exceeding approximately 260 mg per kilo of said first extract, preferably exceeding approximately 270 mg per kilo of said first extract, preferably exceeding approximately 280 mg per kilo of said first extract, preferably exceeding approximately 290 mg per kilo of said first extract, preferably exceeding approximately 300 mg per kilo of said first extract, preferably exceeding approximately 310 mg per kilo of said first extract, preferably exceeding approximately 320 mg per kilo of said first extract, preferably exceeding approximately 330 mg per kilo of said first extract, preferably exceeding approximately 340 mg per kilo of said first extract, preferably exceeding approximately 350 mg per kilo of said first extract, preferably exceeding approximately 360 mg per kilo of said first extract, preferably exceeding approximately 370 mg per kilo of said first extract, preferably exceeding approximately 380 mg per kilo of said first extract,preferably greater than approximately 390 mg per kilogram of said first extract, preferably greater than approximately 400 mg per kilogram of said first extract;

[0026] - beta-carotene content exceeding approximately 210 mg per kilogram of said first extract, preferably greater than approximately 220 mg per kilogram of said first extract, preferably greater than approximately 230 mg per kilogram of said first extract, preferably greater than about 240 mg per kilo of said first extract, preferably greater than about 250 mg per kilo of said first extract, preferably greater than about 260 mg per kilo of said first extract, preferably greater than about 270 mg per kilo of said first extract, preferably greater than about 280 mg per kilo of said first extract;

[0027] In one embodiment, said second extract is obtained from a plant constituent selected from the group consisting of fruits, seeds, and mixtures thereof, preferably from a mixture of fruits and seeds. In one embodiment, said second extract of the species Rosa canina is obtained from a plant constituent selected from the group consisting of fruits, seeds, and mixtures thereof, preferably from a mixture of fruits and seeds. Indeed, the extract of the mixture of fruits and seeds is the extract exhibiting the most desirable properties. For example, the "total" fruit extract (fruit and seeds) has a lower yield, but it has been found that its color is more intense, indicating a rather high content of antioxidants and vitamins.

[0028] In one embodiment, said second extract is extracted from dried fruit. In one embodiment, said second extract is extracted from dried fruit having a residual water content of less than about 50%, preferably less than about 45%, preferably less than about 40%, preferably less than to approximately 35%, preferably less than approximately 30%, preferably less at approximately 25%, preferably less than approximately 20%, preferably less than about 15%, preferably less than about 11%. The residual water content is expressed by mass, relative to the total mass of said extract.

[0029] In one embodiment, said second extract has a residual water content of less than 50%, preferably less than 45%, preferably less than 40%, preferably less than 35%, preferably less than 30%, preferably less than 25%, preferably less than 20%, preferably less than 15%, preferably less than 11%.

[0030] In one embodiment, the rosehip fruit is not heated during the extraction process. In one embodiment, the rosehip fruit is not heated to a temperature exceeding 30°C during the extraction process.

[0031] In one embodiment, said second extract is extracted from the dried fruit and then ground, preferably cryo-ground, preferably with a particle size after grinding of less than about 1000 microns, preferably with a particle size after grinding of less than about 900 microns, preferably with a particle size after grinding of less than about 850 microns, preferably with a particle size after grinding of less than about 800 microns, preferably with a particle size after grinding of less than about 750 microns, preferably with a particle size after grinding of less than about 700 microns.

[0032] In one embodiment, said second extract has a particle size after grinding of less than about 1000 microns, preferably a particle size after grinding of less than about 900 microns, preferably a particle size after grinding to less than approximately 850 microns, preferably a particle size after grinding to less than approximately 800 microns, preferably a particle size after grinding to less than approximately 750 microns, preferably a particle size after grinding less than approximately 700 microns.

[0033] In one embodiment, said second extract, preferably the Rosa canina extract, is obtained by means of a supercritical carbon dioxide extraction, preferably said extraction having at least 1, preferably at least 2, preferably at least 3, preferably at least 4, preferably at least 5, preferably 6, of the following experimental conditions:

[0034] - pressure between approximately 200 bar and approximately 360 bar, preferably between about 210 bars and about 350 bars, preferably between about 220 bars and about 340 bars, preferably between about 230 bars and about 330 bars, preferably between about 240 bars and about 320 bars, preferably between about 250 bars and about 310 bars, preferably between about 260 bars and about 300 bars, preferably between about 270 bars and about 290 bars, preferably about 280 bars;

[0035] - temperature between approximately 10°C and approximately 90°C, preferably between between about 20°C and about 80°C, preferably between about 20°C and about 70°C, preferably between about 30°C and about 70°C, preferably between about 40°C and about 60°C, preferably between about 45°C and about 55°C, preferably about 50°C;

[0036] - carbon dioxide flow rate between approximately 1 kg / h and approximately 11 kg / h, of preferably between about 2 kg / h and about 10 kg / h, preferably between about 3 kg / h and about 9 kg / h, preferably between about 4 kg / h and about 8 kg / h, preferably between about 5 kg / h and about 7 kg / h, preferably about 6 kg / h;

[0037] - extraction time between approximately 1 hour and approximately 5 hours, preferably between approximately 1.5 hours and approximately 4.5 hours, preferably between approximately 2 hours and approximately 4 hours, preferably between approximately 2.5 hours and approximately 3.5 hours, preferably approximately 3 hours;

[0038] - no co-solvent;

[0039] - solvent content between approximately 3 and approximately 33, preferably between between approximately 6 and approximately 30, preferably between approximately 9 and approximately 27, preferably between approximately 12 and approximately 24, preferably between approximately 15 and about 21, preferably between about 16 and about 21, preferably about 18.

[0040] Among the 6 experimental conditions described above, the most critical conditions are pressure and temperature.

[0041] In one embodiment, said second extract, preferably Rosa canina extract, has at least 1, preferably at least 2, preferably at least 3, preferably at least 4, preferably 5, preferably 6, of the following properties:

[0042] - tocopherol content greater than approximately 1150 mg per kilo of said second extract, preferably greater than about 1200 mg per kilo of said second extract, preferably greater than about 1400 mg per kilo of said second extract, preferably greater than about 1600 mg per kilo of said second extract, preferably greater than about 1800 mg per kilo of said second extract, preferably greater than about 2000 mg per kilo of said second extract, preferably greater than about 2200 mg per kilo of said second extract, preferably greater than about 2400 mg per kilo of said second extract, preferably greater than about 2600 mg per kilo of said second extract, preferably greater than about 2800 mg per kilo of said second extract, preferably greater than about 3000 mg per kilo of said second extract, preferably greater than about 3200 mg per kilo of said second extract, preferably greater than about 3400 mg per kilo of said second extract, preferably greater than about 3500 mg per kilo of said second extract;

[0043] - alpha-tocopherol content greater than approximately 160 mg per kilogram of said second extract, preferably greater than about 250 mg per kilo of said second extract, preferably greater than about 450 mg per kilo of said second extract, preferably greater than about 650 mg per kilo of said second extract, preferably greater than about 850 mg per kilo of said second extract, preferably greater than about 1000 mg per kilo of said second extract, preferably greater than about 1100 mg per kilo of said second extract, preferably greater than about 1200 mg per kilo of said second extract, preferably greater than about 1300 mg per kilo of said second extract, preferably greater than about 1400 mg per kilo of said second extract, preferably greater than about 1500 mg per kilo of said second extract, preferably greater than about 1600 mg per kilo of said second extract, preferably greater than about 1700 mg per kilo of said second extract, preferably greater than about 1800 mg per kilo of said second extract.

[0044] - gamma-tocopherol content greater than approximately 640 mg per kilogram of said second extract, preferably exceeding approximately 750 mg per kilo of said second extract, preferably exceeding approximately 850 mg per kilo of said second extract, preferably exceeding approximately 950 mg per kilo of said second extract, preferably exceeding approximately 1000 mg per kilo of said second extract, preferably exceeding approximately 1100 mg per kilo of said second extract, preferably greater than about 1200 mg per kilo of said second extract, preferably greater than about 1300 mg per kilo of said second extract, preferably greater than about 1350 mg per kilo of said second extract;

[0045] - alpha-carotene content exceeding approximately 100 mg per kilogram of said second extract, preferably greater than about 110 mg per kilo of said second extract, preferably greater than about 120 mg per kilo of said second extract, preferably greater than about 130 mg per kilo of said second extract, preferably greater than about 140 mg per kilo of said second extract, preferably greater than about 150 mg per kilo of said second extract, preferably greater than about 160 mg per kilo of said second extract, preferably greater than about 170 mg per kilo of said second extract, preferably greater than about 180 mg per kilo of said second extract;

[0046] - beta-carotene content greater than approximately 360 mg per kilogram of said second extract, preferably greater than about 400 mg per kilo of said second extract, preferably greater than about 450 mg per kilo of said second extract, preferably greater than about 500 mg per kilo of said second extract, preferably greater than about 550 mg per kilo of said second extract, preferably greater than about 580 mg per kilo of said second extract, preferably greater than about 600 mg per kilo of said second extract, preferably greater than about 650 mg per kilo of said second extract.

[0047] - sterol content exceeding approximately 6500 mg per kilogram of said second extract, of preferably greater than about 7000 mg per kilo of said second extract, preferably greater than about 7500 mg per kilo of said second extract, preferably greater than about 8000 mg per kilo of said second extract, preferably greater than about 8500 mg per kilo of said second extract, preferably greater than about 9000 mg per kilo of said second extract, preferably greater than about 9500 mg per kilo of said second extract, preferably greater than about 10000 mg per kilo of said second extract, preferably greater than about 10500 mg per kilo of said second extract, preferably greater than about 11000 mg per kilo of said second extract.

[0048] Among the 6 different properties presented above, the most critical are the beta-carotene content and the alpha-tocopherol content.

[0049] The invention also relates to a cosmetic formulation comprising at least one cosmetic ingredient according to the invention.

[0050] In one embodiment, the cosmetic formulation is chosen from the group consisting of creams and oils.

[0051] The invention also relates to the cosmetic ingredient according to the invention, or a cosmetic formulation comprising at least one cosmetic ingredient according to the invention, for at least one effect selected from the group consisting of the anti-aging effect, the antioxidant effect, the collagen synthesis stimulation effect, the procollagen I synthesis stimulation effect, the effect of slowing down the process of aging, the slowing effect of photo-aging, the effect of preventing signs of aging, and their additions. Description of the figures

[0052] Figures 1, 2 and 3 are graphical representations which correspond to the results presented in Example 2 below.

[0053] Examples

[0054] Example 1: Characterization of extracts and presentation of formulations

[0055] Example 1-1 characterization of the sea buckthorn seed oil extract obtained by supercritical CO2 extraction

[0056] The sea buckthorn seed extract was obtained by means of supercritical carbon dioxide extraction.

[0057] This extract has been analyzed, and the results are given in the tables below: [Tables 1] Determination of tocopherols and tocotrienols Vit E = (Walpha + 0.67Wacetate + 0.50Wbeta + 0.10Wgamma + 0.03Wdelta) / 10 (based on naturally occurring alpha, beta, gamma, and delta tocopherols) Tocopherols or Tocotrienols Result(s) Alpha tocopherol acetate (Wacetate) <5 mg / kg of alpha-tocopherol extract (Walpha) 1042 mg / kg of beta-tocopherol extract (Wbeta) 36 mg / kg of gamma-tocopherol extract (Wgamma) 30 mg / kg of delta-tocopherol extract (Wdelta) 61 mg / kg of alpha-tocotrienol extract 14 mg / kg of beta-tocotrienol extract 2 mg / kg of gamma-tocotrienol extract 19 mg / kg of extract delta-tocotrienol 12 mg / kg of extract Total content 1216 mg / kg of extract ±182 Vitamin E activity 106.5 mg alpha-TE / 100g of extract Table 1: Extract from Hippophae rhamnoides: tocopherols and tocotrienols [Tables 2] Determination of Carotenoid Content Type Result(s) Alpha-carotene 1.9 mg / kg of extract Beta-carotene 287.9 ​​mg / kg of extract Lutein 3.5 mg / kg of extract Lycopene < 1 mg / kg of extract Astaxanthin < 1 mg / kg of extract Canthaxanthin 30.5 mg / kg of extract Zeaxanthin 17.0 mg / kg of extract Other carotenoids 66.4 mg / kg of extract Total carotenoids 407 mg / kg of extract Table 2: Extract from Hippophae rhamnoides: carotenoids

[0058] Example 1-2 characterization of the fruit oil extract + rosehip seeds obtained by supercritical CO2 extraction

[0059] The fruit (fruit + seeds) has been previously dried (residual water content less than 11%), and cryogenically ground (particle size less than 700 microns).

[0060] The rosehip fruit extract (fruit + seeds) was then obtained by means of a supercritical carbon dioxide extraction with the following parameters: pressure 280 bars, temperature 50°C, carbon dioxide flow rate 6 kg / h, absence of co-solvent, extraction time 3 h, solvent ratio 18.

[0061] The results are given in the tables below: [Tables 3] Parameter(s) determined Result(s) Oleic acidity (NF EN ISO 660) 3.3% (w / w) ± 0.33 Peroxide value 3.6 meqO2 / kg ± 1.4 Alpha-carotene 185.1 mg / kg Beta-carotene 583.5 mg / kg Table 3: Extract from Rosa canina: analyses [Tables 4] Determination of tocopherols and tocotrienols Vit E = (Walpha + 0.67Wacetate + 0.50Wbeta + 0.10Wgamma + 0.03Wdelta) / 10 (based on naturally occurring alpha, beta, gamma, and delta tocopherols) Tocopherols or Tocotrienols Result(s) Alpha tocopherol acetate (Wacetate) <5 mg / kg of fat Alpha tocopherol (Walpha) 2095 mg / kg of fat Beta tocopherol (Wbeta) 32 mg / kg of fat Gamma tocopherol (Wgamma) 1361 mg / kg of fat Delta tocopherol (Wdelta) 66 mg / kg of fat Alpha tocotrienol 7 mg / kg of fat Beta tocotrienol <2 mg / kg of fat gamma-tocotrienol 16 mg / kg of fat, delta-tocotrienol <2 mg / kg of fat. Total content 3576 mg / kg of fat ± 536. Vitamin E activity 224.9 mg alpha-TE / 100g of fat. Table 4: Extract from Rosa canina: tocopherols and tocotrienols [Tables 5] Determination of fatty acid composition (Results expressed as methyl ester equivalents with correction factors) Uncertainty in composition: 8% of the value obtained with a minimum of 0.5% and a maximum of 3.5% Common name Fatty acids Result(s) Capric acid 10:0 <0.05% Lauric acid 12:0 0.15% Myristic acid 14:0 0.09% Pentadecanoic acid 15:0 <0.05% Palmitic acid 16:0 3.94% Palmitoleic acid and its isomers 16:1 0.16% Margaric acid 17:0 0.08% Heptadecenoic acid 17:1 0.06% Stearic acid 18:0 2.47% 18:1 trans <0.05% Oleic acid (and its cis isomers) 18:1 18.51% 18:2 trans <0.05% Linoleic acid 18:2 cis 52.61% 18:3 trans <0.05% Linolenic acid 18:3 (n-3) cis 20.08% Arachidic acid 20:0 1.07% Gondoic acid 20:1 0.37% Behenic acid 22:0 0.23% Erucic acid 22:1 <0.05% Lignoceric acid 24:0 0.11% Nervonic acid 24:1 <0.05% Table 5: Rosa canina extract: fatty acid composition (1 / 2) [Tableauxô] Saturated fatty acids 8.15% Monounsaturated fatty acids 19.10% Polyunsaturated fatty acids 72.69% of which (n-6) 52.61% of which (n-3) 20.08% Method used (fatty acid analysis) Transmethylation with BF3 (manual preparation) Table 6: Rosa canina extract: fatty acid composition (2 / 2)

[0062] Example 1-3: Examples of formulations

[0063] Examples of formulations comprising the cosmetic ingredient according to the invention are given in the tables below: [Paintings?] Phase Ingredient % in formula (w / w) A Hydrosol 75-65 Xanthan Gum 0.2-0.7 Glycerin 2-5 B Emulsifier 2-4 Squalane 1-5 Vegetable Oil 6-13 Plum Butter 2-4 C Dermosoft® 2-4 Pentylene Glycol 2-5 D Rosehip Extract 0.01-1 Sea Buckthorn Extract 0.01-1 Tocopherol 0.1-0.5 F Citric Acid q.s. pH 5.2 Table 7: Formulation (cream) Ingredient % in formula (w / w) Prickly pear oil 25-30 Raspberry oil 25-30 Hemp oil 25-30 Sea buckthorn oil 0.1-1 Rosehip oil 0.1-1 Samphira Oil Bioactive® 1-5 Pomegranate oil 1-5 Vitamin E 0.1-0.5 Table 8: Formulation (oil)

[0064] Example 2: Effects of the cosmetic ingredient according to the invention

[0065] The extracts presented in examples 1-1 and 1-2 were tested (50 / 50 mixture).

[0066] Example 2-1: Epidermal antioxidant potential

[0067] The test system used is as follows: human keratinocytes HaCaT.

[0068] The test conditions are as follows: - Pretreatment of HaCaT cells, for 24 h, with the cosmetic ingredient according to the invention, before irradiation of the cells (pre-UV treatment); - Exposure of cells to UV-B (20mJ / cm2), in the absence of the cosmetic ingredient according to the invention; - Incubation of the “irradiated” cells for 24 hours, in the presence of the cosmetic ingredient according to the invention (post-UV treatment); - Quantification of the degree of intracellular oxidation (ROS) by measurement of DCFH fluorescence and assay of cellular proteins.

[0069] The degree of intracellular oxidation (URF / well) recorded in the control and treated cultures was reported as the mean cellular protein level (pg / well). The [DCFH] values ​​are expressed in arbitrary units: [DCFH] = (URF / pg protein) where URF = Relative Fluorescence Unit. The degree of UV-induced oxidation ([DOI]UV-INDUCED) was calculated in the different experimental batches, according to the formula: [DOI]UV-INDUCED = [DCFH](+)UV - [DCFH](-)UV. The cosmetic ingredient according to the invention was tested at 3 concentrations: C1 = 0.018%, C2 = 0.045%, and C3 = 0.09%. Vitamin E [VE] was tested at ImM as a positive control.

[0070] The results are presented in the following table: [Tables 9] Control NI Control UV Treated with cosmetic ingredient according to the invention + UV Vit.E + UV DCFH Test (-) (+) 0.02% 0.05% 0.09% ImM Well 1 URF 1 5989 49703 36239 33744 29685 15160 Well 2 URF 2 5707 46848 35446 32269 28801 15199 Well 2 URF 3 5529 45273 37202 32004 28598 14144 Mean 5742 47274 36296 32672 29028 14834 Standard Deviation 232 2246 880 938 578 598 DCF (U RF / well) Mean e 12890 116722 89275 80218 71106 35622 Standard Deviation 579 5614 2199 2344 1444 1496 Cellular Proteins (-) (+) 0.02% 0.05% 0.09% ImM Well 1 DO 1 0.352 0.306 0.301 0.309 0.308 0.312 Well 2 DO 2 0.355 0.302 0.296 0.304 0.307 0.308 Well 3 DO 3 0.355 0.315 0.31 0.312 0.312 0.316 Mean 0.354 0.308 0.302 0.308 0.309 0.312 Standard deviation 0.001 0.007 0.007 0.004 0.003 0.004 Protein (pg / well) Mean 114.15 93.16 90.42 93.25 93.57 95.03 Standard deviation 0.64 3.06 3.2 1.93 1.15 1.73 Intracellular ROS (-) (+) 0.0 18% 0.045% 0.09% ImM ROS (U RF / pg prot) Mean 112.93 1252.95 987.29 860.25 759.94 374.83 Standard deviation 5.07 60.26 24.32 25.13 15.43 15.74 ROS induction ( ROS(+)UV - ROS(-)UV) - 1140.02 874.36 747.32 647.01 261.90 ROS induction (% Control +UV) 100 77 66 57 23. Student's t test (vs Tém (+) UV) p<0.01 p<0.01 p<0.01 p<0.01 Table 9: Human HaCaT keratinocytes.

[0071] These results are also presented in [Fig. 1].

[0072] Particularly noteworthy results were observed: - Control group: UV exposure of HaCaT cells results in a very strong increase in intracellular ROS. The basal oxidation state (non-irradiated cultures) is multiplied by 11.0 after UV exposure of the cells; - Batches treated with the cosmetic ingredient according to the invention: the degree of post-stress intracellular oxidation is very clearly reduced compared to that of the control (+)UV. The modulating effect is dose-dependent within the range of concentrations tested; • Cl: 23% reduction in ROS; • C2 34% reduction in ROS; • C3: 43% reduction in ROS; The differences recorded at Cl (-23%), C2 (-34%) and C3 (-43%) are statistically significant (p<0.01, Student's t-test) compared to the control (+)UV. - Lot CP [VE]: Vitamin E (ImM) inhibits UV-induced ROS production by 77%. This result confirms the good reactivity of the test system and validates the test.

[0073] Example 2-2: dermo-protective potential (PIP)

[0074] The test system used is as follows: human dermal fibroblasts NHDF.

[0075] The test conditions are as follows: - Treatment of NHDF cells, for 24 h, with the cosmetic ingredient according to the invention, before UV irradiation (pre-UV treatment); - Exposure of cells to UV-A, in the absence of the cosmetic ingredient according to the invention; - Incubation of irradiated cells for 24 hours, in the presence of the cosmetic ingredient according to the invention (post-UV treatment); - Quantification of the level of pro-collagen I (assay [PIP]) in incubation media.

[0076] The [PIP] (Procollagen type I Peptide) values ​​recorded in the Control and Treated cultures were normalized to the average cellular protein level (pg / well). The cosmetic ingredient according to the invention was tested at 3 concentrations: Cl=0.018%, C2=0.045% and C3=0.09%. Sodium ascorbate (AUC, 50pg / ml) was tested as a positive control.

[0077] The results are presented in the following tables: [Tables 10] Control NI Control UV Treated with the cosmetic ingredient according to the invention + UV CPasc + UV Procollagen I Pep Üde (DO450nm) (-) (+) 0.018% 0.045% 0.09% 50 pg / ml Well 1 DO 1 0.368 0.337 0.386 0.441 0.457 0.608 Well 2 DO2 0.356 0.336 0.384 0.428 0.453 0.603 Well 3 DO3 0.348 0.337 0.393 0.435 0.448 0.590 Average 0.357 0.337 0.388 0.435 0.453 0.600 Standard Deviation 0.010 0.001 0.005 0.007 0.005 0.009 PIP (ng / f uits) Mean 209.66 193.86 233.06 269.82 284.05 403.47 Standard Deviation 7.73 0.44 3.67 5.13 3.57 7.65 Cellular Proteins (DO2O2m) - - 0.018% 0.045% 0.09% 50 pg / ml Well 1 Well 2 Well 3 DO1 DO2 DO3 0.259 0.217 0.225 0.227 0.226 0.221 0.263 0.227 0.232 0.229 0.233 0.225 0.258 0.220 0.232 0.232 0.232 0.224 Mean 0.260 0.221 0.230 0.229 0.230 0.223 Standard deviation 0.002 0.006 0.004 0.003 0.004 0.002 Protein (pg / well) Mean 69.77 52.25 56.02 55.90 56.18 53.14 Standard deviation 1.10 2.54 1.94 1.28 1.78 1.09 Table 10: Human dermal fibroblasts NHDF PIP assays (1 / 2) [Tables II] Control NI Control UV Treated with the cosmetic ingredient according to the invention + UV CPasc + UV Procollagen I Peptide [PIP] (-) (+) 0.0 18% 0.0 45% 0.09% 50 pg / ml PIP (ng / pgprot) Mean 3.006 0.122 3.716 0.186 4.163 0.144 4.829 0.175 5.061 0.218 7.596 0.273 Standard deviation Procollagen I Peptide [PIP] (%) 81 100 112 130 136 204 p<0.01 Student's t-test (vs Control (+) UV) p<0.05 p<0.01 p<0.01 p<0.01 Table 11: Human dermal fibroblasts NHDF PIP assays (2 / 2)

[0078] These results are also presented in [Fig.2].

[0079] Particularly noteworthy results were observed: - Control group: UVA irradiation (10J / cm2) induces a slight increase in collagen synthesis. The level of pro-collagen I is increased by 23% (p<0.01, Student's t-test) compared to the non-irradiated control. It should be noted that this result is surprisingly the opposite of that generally observed with this experimental model, namely a decrease in collagen synthesis; - Batches treated with the cosmetic ingredient according to the invention: the cosmetic ingredient according to the invention clearly stimulates the synthesis of procollagen I. The differences recorded at the level of batches Cl (+12%, p<0.05), C2 (+30%, p<0.01) and C3 (+36%, p<0.01) are statistically significant (Student's t-test) compared to the control (+)UV; - Lot CP [ASC]: Sodium ascorbate [ASC] (50 pg / ml) strongly stimulates the neosynthesis of collagen I. The PIP level is increased by 104% compared to the control (+)UV. This result confirms the good reactivity of the assay system and validates the test.

[0080] Example 2-3: dermo-protective potential (MMP)

[0081] The test system used is as follows: human dermal fibroblasts NHDF.

[0082] The test conditions are as follows: - Treatment of NHDF cells, for 24 h, with the cosmetic ingredient according to the invention, before UV irradiation (pre-UV treatment); - Exposure of cells to UV-A, in the absence of the cosmetic ingredient according to the invention; - Incubation of irradiated cells for 24 hours, in the presence of the cosmetic ingredient according to the invention (post-UV treatment); - Quantification of the MMP-1 level in incubation media.

[0083] The [MMP-1] values ​​recorded in the control and treated cultures were normalized to the mean cellular protein concentration (pg / well). The cosmetic ingredient according to the invention was tested at three concentrations: C1 = 0.018%, C2 = 0.045%, and C3 = 0.09%. Vitamin E (VE, ImM) was tested as a positive control.

[0084] The results are presented in the following tables: [Tables 12] Control NI Control UV Treated with the cosmetic ingredient according to the invention + UV CPVE + UV MMP-1 (DO450nm) - - 0.018% 0.045% 0.09% 1 mM Well 1 DO 1 0.208 0.885 0.989 1.148 1.295 0.890 Well 2 DO2 0.210 0.934 0.966 1.171 1.237 0.875 Well 3 DO 3 0.212 0.941 0.960 1.147 1.216 0.873 Mean 0.210 0.920 0.972 1.155 1.249 0.879 Standard Deviation 0.002 0.031 0.015 0.014 0.041 0.009 MMP-1 (ng / well) Mean 1.89 9.30 9.81 11.60 12.50 8.90 Standard deviation 0.02 0.30 0.15 0.13 0.39 0.09 Cellular proteins (DOOsvm) - - 0.018% 0.045% 0.09% 1 mM Well 1 DO1 0.259 0.217 0.225 0.227 0.226 0.237 Well 2 DO2 0.263 0.227 0.232 0.229 0.233 0.242 Well 3 DO3 0.258 0.220 0.232 0.232 0.232 0.243 Mean 0.260 0.221 0.230 0.229 0.230 0.240 Standard deviation 0.002 0.006 0.004 0.003 0.004 0.003 Protein (pg / well) Mean Standard deviation 69.77 1.10 52.25 2.54 56.02 1.94 55.90 1.28 56.18 1.78 60.90 1.52 Table 12: Human dermal fibroblasts NHDF MMP assays (1 / 2) [Tables 13] Control NI Control UV Treated with the cosmetic ingredient according to the invention + UV CPVE + UV MMP-1 production - - 0.018% 0.045% 0.09% 1 mM MMP-1 (ng / pg protein) Mean Standard deviation 0.027 0.001 0.178 0.006 0.175 0.009 0.208 0.005 0.223 0.014 0.146 0.005 MMP-1 Production (%) 15 100 98 116 125 82 p<0.01 Student's t-test (vs UV (+) control) p<0.05 p<0.01 p<0.01 p<0.01 Table 13: Human dermal fibroblasts NHDF MMP assays (2 / 2)

[0085] These results are also presented in [Fig.3].

[0086] Particularly noteworthy results were observed: - Control group: UVA exposure (10J / cm2) of NHDF cells results in a very strong increase in MMP-1. The baseline level of MMP-1 is multiplied by 6.6 compared to the non-irradiated control; - Batches treated with the cosmetic ingredient according to the invention: the cosmetic ingredient according to the invention induces a slight increase in MMP-1. It should be noted that the inducing effect is dose-dependent in the range of concentrations tested: C1: 2% reduction of MMP-1 (ns, Student's t-test), C2: 16% increase of MMP-1 (p<0.01, Student's t-test), C3: 25% increase of MMP-1 (p<0.01, Student's t-test); - Lot CP [VE]: Vitamin E [VE] (ImM) reduced MMP-1 levels by 18% compared to the control (+)UV. This result confirms the good reactivity of the test system and validates the test.

Claims

Demands

1. Cosmetic ingredient comprising: - at least one first plant extract from the order Proteales, preferably from the family Elaeagnaceae, preferably from a genus selected from the group consisting of the genera Elaeganus, Shepherdia and Hippophae, preferably from the genus Hippophae; and - at least one second plant extract from the order Rosales, preferably from the family Rosaceae, preferably from a genus selected from the group consisting of the genera Prunus, Pyrus, Malus, Fragaria, Rubus, Rosa, Cotoneaster, Spiraea, Crataegus and Sorbus, preferably from the genus Rosa, preferably from a species selected from the group consisting of Rosa gallica, Rosa rugosa, Rosa damascena, Rosa chinensis, Rosa canina, Rosa banksiae, Rosa multiflora, Rosa foetida, Rosa alba and Rosa moyesii, preferably from the species Rosa canina.

2. Cosmetic ingredient according to claim 1, characterized in that said at least a first extract is an extract of plant species Hippophae rhamnoides and said at least a second extract is an extract of plant species Rosa canina.

3. Cosmetic ingredient according to claim 2, characterized in that said extract of plant species Rosa canina has a beta-carotene content greater than 360 mg per kilo of said second extract, preferably greater than 400 mg per kilo of said second extract, preferably greater than 450 mg per kilo of said second extract, preferably greater than 500 mg per kilo of said second extract, preferably greater than 550 mg per kilo of said second extract, preferably greater than 580 mg per kilo of said second extract, preferably greater than 600 mg per kilo of said second extract, preferably greater than 650 mg per kilo of said second extract.

4. Cosmetic ingredient according to claim 2 or 3, characterized in that said extract of the plant species Rosa canina has an alpha-tocopherol content greater than 160 mg per kilo of said second extract, preferably greater than 250 mg per kilo of said second extract, preferably greater than 450 mg per kilo of said second extract, preferably greater than 650 mg per kilo of said second extract,

5. preferably greater than 850 mg per kilo of said second extract, preferably greater than 1000 mg per kilo of said second extract, of preferably exceeding 1100 mg per kilo of said second extract, of preferably exceeding 1200 mg per kilo of said second extract, of preferably exceeding 1300 mg per kilo of said second extract, of preferably exceeding 1400 mg per kilo of said second extract, of preferably exceeding 1500 mg per kilo of said second extract, of preferably exceeding 1600 mg per kilo of said second extract, of preferably exceeding 1700 mg per kilo of said second extract, of preference greater than 1800 mg per kilo of said second extract. Cosmetic ingredient according to any one of claims 2 to 4, characterized in that said extract of the Rosa canina plant species is obtained by means of a supercritical carbon dioxide extraction, preferably said extraction having at least 1, preferably at least 2, preferably at least 3, preferably at least 4, preferably at least 5, preferably 6, of the following experimental conditions: - pressure between 200 bars and 360 bars, preferably between 210 bars and 350 bars, preferably between 220 bars and 340 bars, preferably between 230 bars and 330 bars, preferably between 240 bars and 320 bars, preferably between 250 bars and 310 bars, preferably between 260 bars and 300 bars, preferably between 270 bars and 290 bars, preferably 280 bars; - temperature between 10°C and 90°C, preferably between 20°C and 80°C, preferably between 20°C and 70°C, preferably between 30°C and 70°C, preferably between 40°C and 60°C, preferably between 45°C and 55°C, preferably 50°C; - carbon dioxide flow rate between 1 kg / h and 11 kg / h, preferably between 2 kg / h and 10 kg / h, preferably between 3 kg / h and 9 kg / h, preferably between 4 kg / h and 8 kg / h, preferably between 5 kg / h and 7 kg / h, preferably 6 kg / h; - extraction time between 1 h and 5 h, preferably between 1.5 h and 4.5 h, preferably between 2 h and 4 h, preferably between 2.5 h and 3.5 h, preferably 3 h; - no co-solvent; - solvent content between 3 and 33, preferably between 6 and 30, preferably between 9 and 27, preferably between 12 and 24, preferably between 15 and 21, preferably between 16 and 21, preferably 18.

6. Cosmetic ingredient according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the mass ratio of the first extract to the second extract is between 0.1 and 10, preferably between 0.1 and 10, preferably between 0.2 and 9, preferably between 0.2 and 8, preferably between 0.3 and 7, preferably between 0.4 and 6, preferably between 0.5 and 5, preferably between 0.6 and 4, preferably between 0.7 and 3, preferably between 0.7 and 2, preferably between 0.7 and 1.3, preferably between 0.8 and 1.2, preferably 1.

7. Cosmetic ingredient according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that said second extract is extracted from the dried fruit and then ground, preferably cryo-ground, preferably with a particle size after grinding of less than 1000 microns, preferably with a particle size after grinding of less than 900 microns, preferably with a particle size after grinding of less than 850 microns, preferably with a particle size after grinding of less than 800 microns, preferably with a particle size after grinding of less than 750 microns, preferably with a particle size after grinding of less than 700 microns.

8. Cosmetic ingredient according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that said second extract has a residual water content of less than 50%, preferably less than 45%, preferably less than 40%, preferably less than 35%, preferably less than 30%, preferably less than 25%, preferably less than 20%, preferably less than 15%, preferably less than 11%.

9. Cosmetic formulation comprising at least one cosmetic ingredient according to any one of the preceding claims.

10. Use of the cosmetic ingredient according to any one of claims 1 to 8, or of the cosmetic formulation comprising at least one cosmetic ingredient according to claim 9, as an anti-aging agent, as an antioxidant, as a stimulant of collagen synthesis, as a stimulant of procollagen I synthesis, to slow down the aging process, to slow down the photo-aging process, to prevent signs of aging, and the addition of these uses.

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