KERATINOUS MATERIAL SKINCARE COMPOSITION

Abstract

KERATINOUS MATERIAL CARE COMPOSITION The present invention relates to a composition comprising: (a) at least one water-sensitive cosmetic active ingredient; (b) at least one polyol; and (c) at least one β-hydroxy acid in an amount of 0.2% to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The composition according to the present invention is very suitable as a cosmetic composition, particularly as a topical cosmetic composition for keratinous materials, because it can effectively deliver the cosmetic active ingredient to the keratinous materials. Figure for the abstract: none

Description

Title of the invention: KERATINOUS MATERIAL CARE COMPOSITION technical field

[0001] The present invention relates to a composition, preferably a cosmetic composition for the care of keratinous materials. The present invention also relates to a cosmetic process for the treatment and / or care of keratinous materials. BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION

[0002] Cinnamic acid and its derivatives, such as ferulic acid, are known to be useful in cosmetics, for example, due to their antioxidant, whitening / brightening, and UV-protective properties. However, cinnamic acid and its derivatives, such as ferulic acid, tend to be unstable under certain conditions. For example, ferulic acid will degrade, resulting in a loss of stability and an unpleasant odor upon contact with water. Furthermore, the color of formulas containing ferulic acid turns yellow at high temperatures, which can impact consumer preference and efficacy.

[0003] In order to prevent the degradation of ferulic acid, some prior art documents disclose anhydrous compositions comprising ferulic acid.

[0004] For example, document US-A-2022 / 0387278 discloses an anhydrous composition for the treatment of keratinous materials comprising:

[0005] a) from 0.5% by weight to 3.0% by weight of ferulic acid, relative to the total weight of the composition; b) at least one C3-C10 polyol; and

[0006] c) at least one silica aerogel.

[0007] Furthermore, document WO 2022 / 204951 discloses an anhydrous composition for the care of keratinous materials comprising:

[0008] a) at least one water- and / or oxygen-sensitive cosmetic active ingredient;

[0009] b) at least one non-ionic surfactant selected from polyglyceryl esters of fatty acids having an HLB value not less than 13 at a temperature of 25 °C and ethoxylated / propoxylated fatty alcohols; and

[0010] c) dipropylene glycol;

[0011] in which the composition does not include any cationic surfactant.

[0012] However, there is still a need for cosmetic compositions including a water-sensitive cosmetic active ingredient, such as ferulic acid, which can suppress the degradation of active ingredients.

[0013] Furthermore, the formulation of environmentally friendly cosmetic products, designed and developed with environmental concerns in mind, is becoming a major objective in addressing global challenges. It is therefore essential to offer more sustainable compositions, preparation processes, and ingredients to meet these environmental concerns.

[0014] In this context, it is important to develop new cosmetic compositions, such as new keratin care compositions, with a better carbon footprint, in particular by promoting the use of renewable raw materials and / or materials with a good naturalness index and / or materials of natural origin. DISCLOSURE OF THE INVENTION

[0015] An objective of the present invention is to propose a new cosmetic composition including at least one water-sensitive cosmetic active ingredient, which exhibits improved stability.

[0016] The above objective of the present invention can be achieved by a composition comprising:

[0017] a) at least one water-sensitive cosmetic active ingredient;

[0018] b) at least one polyol; and

[0019] c) at least one [3-hydroxy acid in an amount of 0.2% to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0020] The (a) water-sensitive cosmetic active ingredient may be selected from the cinnamic acid derivatives represented by formula (I):

[0021] in which

[0022] - A is chosen from

[0023] - an OR3 group in which R3 is chosen from a hydrogen atom, a group phytyl, a benzyl group, a linear or branched Ci-Ci8 alkyl group, a C3-C8 cycloalkyl group, a C3-C8-Ci-C5 cycloalkyl group, an alkali metal ion, an alkaline earth metal ion, and an ammonium ion,

[0024] and

[0025] - an NHR4 group in which R4 is chosen from a hydrogen atom, a group phytyl, a benzyl group, and a linear or branched C1-C18 alkyl group, a C3-C8 cycloalkyl group, a C3-C8 cycloalkyl-C1-C5 alkyl group,

[0026] - Ri is chosen from a hydrogen atom, a hydroxyl group, an alkoxy group in C1-C6, a linear or branched CrC1-C8 alkyl group, a C3-C8 cycloalkyl group, a C3-C8 cycloalkyl-alkyl group in C1-C5, and,

[0027] - R2 is chosen from a hydrogen atom, a hydroxyl group and a group alkoxy in Ci-C6.

[0028] The (a) water-sensitive cosmetic active ingredient may be selected from 2-ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, isopropyl methoxycinnamate, isoamyl methoxycinnamate, diisopropyl methoxycinnamate, caffeic acid, ferulic acid, and combinations thereof.

[0029] The (b) polyol can be selected from linear or branched diols and triols having from 2 to 8 carbon atoms.

[0030] The (b) polyol may comprise at least two polyols selected from diols selected from hexylene glycol, propanediol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, pentylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, diethylene glycol and butylene glycol; and triols selected from glycerin.

[0031] The (b) polyol may comprise at least one diol selected from hexylene glycol, propanediol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, pentylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, diethylene glycol and butylene glycol; and at least one triol of glycerin in combination.

[0032] The (c) [3-hydroxy acid can be selected from salicylic acid and its alkylated derivatives.

[0033] The (c) [3-hydroxy acid may be selected from salicylic acid and its alkylated derivatives of formula (II) or a salt of such a derivative: r “'(II) CT 83 Ri

[0034] in which:

[0035] - RI represents a hydroxyl radical or an ester of formula:

[0036] -O-CO-R4

[0037] wherein R4 is a saturated or unsaturated aliphatic radical containing from 1 to 26 carbon atoms, and preferably from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, or an amine or thiol function optionally substituted with an alkyl radical containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and preferably from 1 to 12 carbon atoms,

[0038] - R2 and R3, independently of each other, are in position 3, 4, 5 or 6 on the cycle benzene and represent, independently of each other, a hydrogen atom or a radical:

[0039] -(O)n-(CO)m-R5

[0040] in which n and m, independently of each other, are each an integer equal to 0 or 1; provided that R2 and R3 are not simultaneously hydrogen atoms;

[0041] R5 represents a hydrogen atom, a linear, branched or cyclized saturated aliphatic radical containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms or an unsaturated radical containing from 3 to 18 carbon atoms, bearing one to nine conjugated or non-conjugated double bonds, the radicals being able to be substituted with at least one substituent selected from halogen atoms (fluorine, chlorine, bromine or iodine), trifluoromethyl radicals, a hydroxyl in free form or esterified by an acid containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, or a carboxyl in free form or esterified by a lower alcohol containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms.

[0042] The (c) [3-hydroxy acid may be selected from 5-n-octanoylsalicylic acid, 5-n-decanoylsalicylic acid, 5-n-dodecanoylsalicylic acid, 5-n-octylsalicylic acid, 5-n-heptyloxysalicylic acid, 4-n-heptyloxysalicylic acid, 5-tert-octylsalicylic acid, 3-tert-butyl-5-methylsalicylic acid, 3-tert-butyl-6-methylsalicylic acid, 3,5-diisopropylsalicylic acid, 5-butoxysalicylic acid, 5-octyloxysalicylic acid, 5-propanoylsalicylic acid, 5-n-hexadecanoylsalicylic acid, 5-n-oleoylsalicylic acid, 5-benzoylsalicylic acid, their monovalent and divalent salts, and their mixtures.

[0043] The quantity of the (a) water-sensitive cosmetic active ingredient(s) in the composition may range from 0.1% to 10% by weight, preferably from 1% to 8% by weight, and more preferably from 1.5% to 4% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0044] The quantity of (b) polyol in the composition can range from 50% to 98% by weight, preferably from 62.5% to 95% by weight, and more preferably from 75% to 90% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0045] The composition according to the present invention may further comprise at least one oil, preferably an ester oil.

[0046] The quantity of oil in the composition can range from 1% to 10% by weight, preferably from 2% to 8% by weight, and more preferably from 3% to 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0047] The water content in the composition according to the present invention may be less than 15% by weight, preferably less than 10% by weight, more preferably less than 5% by weight, even more preferably less than 1% by weight, and in particular less than 0.1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, or the composition according to the present invention may be free or substantially free of water.

[0048] The present invention also relates to a cosmetic process for the treatment and / or care of keratinous materials, comprising a step of applying the composition according to the present invention to keratinous materials. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0049] After extensive research, the inventors discovered that a combination of the ingredients (b) polyol and (c) [3-hydroxy acid] in a specific amount can suppress degradation of the (a) water-sensitive cosmetic active ingredient, and thus completed the invention.

[0050] Thus, the composition according to the present invention is a composition comprising:

[0051] (a) at least one water-sensitive cosmetic active ingredient;

[0052] (b) at least one polyol; and

[0053] (c) at least one [3-hydroxy acid in an amount of 0.2% to 3% by weight relative to to the total weight of the composition.

[0054] The composition according to the present invention can confer improved stability to (a) the water-sensitive cosmetic active ingredient. The composition can suppress degradation of (a) the cosmetic active ingredient, and can therefore exhibit good color stability and suppress unpleasant odors due to the degradation of (a) the cosmetic active ingredient. Consequently, the composition according to the present invention is very suitable as a cosmetic composition, particularly as a topical cosmetic composition for keratinous materials, because it can effectively deliver the cosmetic active ingredient to the keratinous materials.

[0055] The composition, use and process according to the present invention will be described in more detail below. [COMPOSITION]

[0056] The composition according to the present invention comprises:

[0057] (a) at least one water-sensitive cosmetic active ingredient;

[0058] (b) at least one polyol; and

[0059] (c) at least one [3-hydroxy acid in an amount of 0.2% to 3% by weight relative to to the total weight of the composition.

[0060] The composition according to the present invention can be intended for use as a cosmetic composition, in particular as a topical cosmetic composition. Thus, the composition according to the present invention can be intended for application to keratinous materials.

[0061] Keratinous material herein refers to a material containing keratin as its principal constituent, and examples thereof include skin, hair, scalp, nails, lips, and the like. Preferably, keratinous material herein refers to skin. Thus, in a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the present invention is a cosmetic composition, in particular a topical cosmetic composition for the treatment and / or care of keratinous materials, preferably skin.

[0062] The composition according to the present invention can take various forms, such as a solution, gel, lotion, serum, suspension, dispersion, fluid, milk, paste, cream, foam, emulsion (oil-in-water or oil-in-oil form), multiple emulsions (e.g., oil-in-water, polyol / oil-in-water, and oil-in-oil), and the like. Preferably, the composition according to the present invention is a solution, in particular a homogeneous oily solution, or an oily dispersion. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "homogeneous" is understood to mean a composition consisting of a single phase.

[0063] In preferred embodiments, the composition according to the present invention may not include a large amount of water. The water content in the composition may be less than 15% by weight, preferably less than 10% by weight, more preferably less than 5% by weight, even more preferably less than 1% by weight, and in particular less than 0.1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. In a preferred embodiment, the composition is free or substantially free of water. In a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the composition is anhydrous. Thus, the composition according to the present invention may be an anhydrous solution or dispersion.

[0064] The ingredients of the composition will be described in detail below. (Water-sensitive cosmetic active ingredient)

[0065] The composition according to the present invention comprises (a) at least one water-sensitive cosmetic active ingredient. Two or more different types of (a) cosmetic active ingredients may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of (a) cosmetic active ingredient or a combination of different types of (a) cosmetic active ingredients may be used.

[0066] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "water-sensitive ingredients" refers to ingredients that undergo degradation when they come into contact with water under certain conditions and for a certain period of time. For example, water-sensitive ingredients may undergo degradation upon contact with water at room temperature (25 °C) and atmospheric pressure (105 Pa) for at least several days, in particular for at least two days.

[0067] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "cosmetic active ingredient" may here refer to compounds having a cosmetic effect, such as antioxidant activity, a whitening and / or lightening effect on keratinous materials, or a UV protection effect.

[0068] When (a) the cosmetic active ingredient degrades due to contact with water, this can lead to certain undesirable consequences. For example, the degradation of (a) the cosmetic active ingredient can cause a change in the composition's color, such as yellowing, and / or generate an unpleasant odor and / or crystallization when stored at low temperatures, such as 4°C.

[0069] In one embodiment of the present invention, (a) the water-sensitive cosmetic active ingredient is selected from cinnamic acid derivatives. The cinnamic acid derivative can be represented by the following chemical formula (I):

[0070] in which

[0071] - A is chosen from

[0072] - an OR3 group in which R3 is chosen from a hydrogen atom, a group phytyl, a benzyl group, a linear or branched CrCi8 alkyl group, a C3-C8 cycloalkyl group, a C3-C8-Ci-C5 cycloalkyl group, an alkali metal ion, an alkaline earth metal ion, and an ammonium ion,

[0073] and

[0074] - an NHR4 group in which R4 is chosen from a hydrogen atom, a group phytyl, a benzyl group, and a linear or branched CrCi8 alkyl group, a C3-C8 cycloalkyl group, a C3-C8 cycloalkyl-C1-C5 alkyl group,

[0075] - Ri is chosen from a hydrogen atom, a hydroxyl group, an alkoxy group in C1-C6, a linear or branched C1-C18 alkyl group, a C3-C8 cycloalkyl group, a C3-C8 cycloalkyl-alkyl group in C1-C5, and

[0076] - R2 is chosen from a hydrogen atom, a hydroxyl group and a group alkoxy in Ci-C6.

[0077] As an alkyl group in CrCi8, preferably an alkyl group in C1-C12, and more preferably an alkyl group in Ci-C6, linear or branched, examples may be given, for example, a methyl group, an ethyl group, an n-propyl group, an i-propyl group, an n-butyl group, an i-butyl group, a sec-butyl group, a tert-butyl group, an n-pentyl group, an i-pentyl group, an 1-ethylpropyl group, a hexyl group, an isohexyl group and an 1-ethylbutyl group.

[0078] Examples of C3-C8 cycloalkyl groups include, for instance, a cyclopropyl group, a cyclobutyl group, a cyclopentyl group and a cyclohexyl group.

[0079] Examples of C3-C8-Ci-C5 alkyl cycloalkyl groups include, for instance, a cyclopropylmethyl group, a cyclobutylmethyl group, a cyclopentylmethyl group and a cyclohexylmethyl group.

[0080] Examples of alkoxy groups in C1-C6 include a methoxy group, an ethoxy group, an n-propoxy group, an i-propoxy group, an n-butoxy group, an i-butoxy group, a sec-butoxy group, a tert-butoxy group, an n-pentoxy group, an i-pentoxy group, an 1-ethylpropoxy group, a hexyloxy group, an isohexyloxy group, and an 1-ethylbutoxy group. A methoxy group is preferred.

[0081] It may be preferable that Ri be a hydroxyl group and that R2 be chosen from a hydroxyl group and an alkoxy group in Ci-C 6, more preferably a methoxy group.

[0082] Examples of derivatives (a) of cinnamic acid include 2-ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, isopropyl methoxycinnamate, isoamyl methoxycinnamate, diisopropyl methoxycinnamate, caffeic acid, and ferulic acid. Caffeic acid and ferulic acid may be preferred, and ferulic acid may be more preferable.

[0083] The quantity of the (a) water-sensitive cosmetic active ingredient(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.1% by weight or more, preferably 1% by weight or more, and more preferably 1.5% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0084] The quantity of the (a) water-sensitive cosmetic active ingredient(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 10% by weight or less, preferably 8% by weight or less, and more preferably 4% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0085] The quantity of the (a) water-sensitive cosmetic active ingredient(s) in the composition according to the present invention can range from 0.1% to 10% by weight, preferably from 1% to 8% by weight, and more preferably from 1.5% to 4% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0086] In the context of this patent memorandum, any combination of the above upper limit values ​​and lower limit values ​​may be available to represent the preferred range of quantity. (Polyol)

[0087] The composition according to the present invention comprises (b) at least one polyol. Two or more different types of (b) polyols may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of (b) polyol or a combination of different types of (b) polyols may be used.

[0088] The term "polyol" here refers to an alcohol having two or more free hydroxyl groups, and does not include a saccharide or one of its derivatives. A saccharide derivative includes a sugar alcohol obtained by reducing one or more carbonyl groups of a saccharide, as well as a saccharide or sugar alcohol in which the hydrogen atom(s) in one or more of its hydroxyl groups has been replaced by at least one substituent such as an alkyl group, a hydroxyalkyl group, an alkoxy group, an acyl group, or a carbonyl group.

[0089] The (b) polyol may be a C2-Ci2 polyol, preferably a C2-C9 polyol.

[0090] The (b) polyol may comprise at least 2 hydroxyl groups, preferably 2 to 5 hydroxy groups, and more preferably 2 or 3 hydroxy groups.

[0091] The polyol can be natural or synthetic. The polyol can have a linear, branched, or cyclic molecular structure.

[0092] The polyol can be selected from glycerins and their derivatives, as well as glycols and their derivatives. The polyol can be selected from the group consisting of glycerin, diglycerin, a polyglycerin, ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, 1,5-pentanediol, a polyethylene glycol (5 to 50 ethylene oxide groups) and caprylyl glycol.

[0093] The polyol may be selected from linear or branched diols and / or triols, preferably linear, having from 2 to 8 carbon atoms, preferably from 3 to 6 carbon atoms; examples include:

[0094] - diols, such as hexylene glycol, propanediol, propylene glycol, the dipropylene glycol, pentylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, diethylene glycol, and butylene glycol; and

[0095] - triols, such as glycerol (glycerin),

[0096] and their mixtures.

[0097] In one embodiment of the present invention, the (b) polyol comprises at least two polyols. In another embodiment of the present invention, the (b) polyol comprises at least three polyols.

[0098] In one embodiment of the present invention, the (b) polyol comprises at least one diol and at least one triol in combination. In another embodiment of the present invention, the (b) polyol comprises at least two diols and at least one triol in combination.

[0099] The quantity of (b) polyol(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 50% by weight or more, preferably 62.5% by weight or more, and more preferably 75% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0100] The quantity of the (b) polyol(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 98% by weight or less, preferably 95% by weight or less, and more preferably 90% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0101] The quantity of the (b) polyol(s) in the composition according to the present invention can be from 50% to 98% by weight, preferably from 62.5% to 95% by weight, and more preferably from 75% to 90% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0102] Where the (b) polyol comprises at least one diol, the amount of the diol(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 40% by weight or more, preferably 50% by weight or more, and more preferably 60% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0103] Where the (b) polyol comprises at least one diol, the amount of the diol(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 90% by weight or less, preferably 85% by weight or less, and more preferably 80% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0104] When the (b) polyol comprises at least one diol, the quantity of the diol(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 40% to 90% by weight, preferably from 50% to 85% by weight, and more preferably from 60% to 80% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0105] Where (b) polyol comprises at least one triol, the amount of triol(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 2.5% by weight or more, preferably 5% by weight or more, and more preferably 7.5% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0106] Where (b) polyol comprises at least one triol, the amount of triol(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 25% by weight or less, preferably 20% by weight or less, and more preferably 15% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0107] When the (b) polyol comprises at least one triol, the quantity of the triol(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 2.5% to 25% by weight, of Preference of 5% to 20% by weight, and more preferably of 7.5% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. (P-hydroxyacid)

[0108] The composition according to the present invention comprises (c) at least one [3-hydroxy acid]. Two or more types of (c) [3-hydroxy acids may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of (c) [3-hydroxy acid or a combination of different types of (c) [3-hydroxy acids may be used.

[0109] The term “[3-hydroxy acid”, or “BHA”, here refers to a carboxylic acid which contains at least one hydroxyl group on the beta carbon atom.

[0110] Examples of 3-hydroxy acids include, without limitation, salicylic acid and its derivatives, in particular its alkylated derivatives of formula (II) below or a salt of such a derivative: (II) RS RJ

[0111] in which:

[0112] - RI represents a hydroxyl radical or an ester of formula:

[0113] -O-CO-R4

[0114] wherein R4 is a saturated or unsaturated aliphatic radical containing from 1 to 26 carbon atoms, and preferably from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, or an amine or thiol function optionally substituted with an alkyl radical containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and preferably from 1 to 12 carbon atoms,

[0115] R2 and R3, independently of each other, are in position 3, 4, 5 or 6 on the benzene ring and represent, independently of each other, a hydrogen atom or a radical:

[0116] -(O)n-(CO)m-R5

[0117] in which n and m, independently of each other, are each an integer equal to 0 or 1; provided that R2 and R3 are not simultaneously hydrogen atoms;

[0118] - R5 represents a hydrogen atom, a linear, branched, saturated aliphatic radical or cyclized containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms or an unsaturated radical containing from 3 to 18 carbon atoms, bearing one to nine conjugated or non-conjugated double bonds, the radicals being able to be substituted with at least one substituent selected from halogen atoms (fluorine, chlorine, bromine or iodine), trifluoromethyl radicals, a hydroxyl in free form or esterified by an acid containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, or a carboxyl in free form or esterified by an inferior alcohol containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms.

[0119] The salicylic acid derivative of formula (I) is preferably such that RI represents a hydroxyl radical, R2 represents a hydrogen atom, R3 is at position 5 of the benzene ring and represents a -CO-R5 radical in which R5 represents a saturated aliphatic radical containing from 3 to 15 carbon atoms.

[0120] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the salicylic acid derivative of formula (I) is selected from 5-n-octanoylsalicylic acid, 5-n-decanoylsalicylic acid, 5-n-dodecanoylsalicylic acid, 5-n-octylsalicylic acid, 5-n-heptyloxysalicylic acid, 4-n-heptyloxysalicylic acid, 5-tert-octylsalicylic acid, 3-tert-butyl-5-methylsalicylic acid, 3-tert-butyl-6-methylsalicylic acid, 3,5-diisopropylsalicylic acid, 5-butoxysalicylic acid, 5-octyloxysalicylic acid, 5-propanoylsalicylic acid, 5-n-hexadecanoylsalicylic acid, 5-n-oleoylsalicylic acid, 5-benzoylsalicylic acid, their monovalent and divalent salts, and mixtures thereof. This refers more specifically to 5-n-octanoylsalicylic acid (INCI: Capryloyl salicyllic Acid).

[0121] The amount of (c)|3-hydroxyacid(s) in the composition is at least 0.2% by weight and 3% by weight or less relative to the total weight of the composition. (Optional ingredients)

[0122] The composition according to the present invention may include the following optional ingredients.

[0123] - Thickener

[0124] The composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one thickener. Two or more thickeners may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of thickener or a combination of different types of thickeners may be used.

[0125] The thickener or thickening agent can be chosen from organic and inorganic thickeners.

[0126] Organic thickeners may preferably be chosen from polymer thickeners, more preferably acrylic thickeners, such as:

[0127] (i) crosslinked acrylic acid homopolymers;

[0128] (ii) crosslinked copolymers of (meth)acrylic acid and Cl-C6 alkyl acrylate;

[0129] (iii) non-ionic homopolymers and copolymers comprising at least one monomer among ethylenically unsaturated ester monomers and ethylenically unsaturated amide monomers;

[0130] (iv) ammonium acrylate homopolymers and ammonium acrylate and acrylamide copolymers.

[0131] (i) Among the cross-linked acrylic acid homopolymers, mention may be made of those cross-linked with an allylic alcohol ether from the sugar series. One example is a carbomer which is a homopolymer of acrylic acid crosslinked with a pentaerythritol allylether, a sucrose allylether or a propylene allylether, such as the products sold under the names Carbopol 980, 981, 954, 2984 and 5984 by the Lubrizol company or the products sold under the names Synthalen M and Synthalen K by the 3 VS A company.

[0132] (ii) Crosslinked (meth)acrylic acid and alkyl acrylate copolymers in the Ci-C6 form may be selected from crosslinked methacrylic acid and ethyl acrylate copolymers in the form of an aqueous dispersion comprising 38% of the active material sold, for example, under the name Viscoatex 538C by Coatex, and crosslinked acrylic acid and ethyl acrylate copolymers in the form of an aqueous dispersion comprising 28% of the active material sold under the name Aculyn 33 by Rohm & Haas. Crosslinked methacrylic acid and ethyl acrylate copolymers include an aqueous dispersion comprising 30% of the active material sold under the name CARBOPOL AQUA SF-1 by NOVEON.

[0133] (iii) Among the non-ionic homopolymers or copolymers comprising ester and / or amide type monomers with ethylenic unsaturation, examples include products sold under the names: Cyanamer P250 by Cytec (polyacrylamide); PMMA MBX-8C by US Cosmetics (methyl methacrylate / ethylene glycol dimethacrylate copolymer); Acryloid B66 by Rohm & Haas (butyl methacrylate / methyl methacrylate copolymer); and BPA 500 by Kobo (polymethyl methacrylate).

[0134] By way of example, one may also cite at least one water-soluble or water-dispersible polymer, crosslinked or non-crosslinked, comprising at least one monomer of acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid (AMPS).

[0135] The AMPS (co)polymer can preferably be totally neutralized or practically totally neutralized, i.e. neutralized at least 90%.

[0136] AMPS (co)polymers can be crosslinked or non-crosslinked.

[0137] Examples of AMPS (co)polymers that may be cited include:

[0138] crosslinked acrylamide / sodium acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonate copolymers, such as the copolymer in the commercial product Sepigel 305 (INCI name: Polyacrylamide / Ci3-Ci4 Isoparaffin / Laureth-7) or the copolymer in the commercial product sold under the brand name Simulgel 600 (INCI name: Acrylamide / Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate / Isohexadecane / Polysorbate-80) by SEPPIC;

[0139] copolymers of AMPS and vinylpyrrolidone or vinylformamide, such as the copolymer in the commercial product sold under the name Aristoflex AVC by Clariant (INCI name: Ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate / VP Copolymer), but neutralized with sodium hydroxide or potassium hydroxide;

[0140] copolymers of AMPS and sodium acrylate such as, for example, the AMPS / sodium acrylate copolymer such as the copolymer in the product commercial product sold under the name Simulgel EG by SEPPIC (INCI name: Sodium Acrylate / Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate Copolymer (and) Isohexadecane (and) Polysorbate-80); and

[0141] copolymers of AMPS and hydroxyethyl acrylate, for example the AMPS / hydroxyethyl acrylate copolymer such as the copolymer in the commercial product sold under the name Simulgel NS by SEPPIC (INCI name: Hydroxyethyl acrylate / Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer (and) Squalane (and) Polysorbate-60).

[0142] It may be preferable for the AMPS (co)polymer to be a copolymer of acrylamide / sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate.

[0143] (i) Ammonium acrylate homopolymers that may be cited include the product sold under the name Microsap PAS 5193 by the company Hoechst.

[0144] Ammonium acrylate homopolymers may be crosslinked or noncrosslinked homopolymers of acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid (AMPS). Examples of AMPS homopolymers that may be cited include crosslinked or noncrosslinked polymers of sodium acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonate, such as the polymer in the commercial product Simulgel 800 (INCI name: Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyltaurate) or Hostacerin AMPS (INCI name: Ammonium Polyacryloyldimethyltaurate).

[0145] Ammonium acrylate and acrylamide copolymers include the product sold under the name Bozepol C Nouveau or the product PAS 5193 sold by the Hoechst company (which are described and prepared in documents FR-2 416 723, US patent no. 2 798 053, and US patent no. 2 923 692).

[0146] The quantity of the thickener or thickeners in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.1% by weight or more, preferably 0.2% by weight or more and, more preferably 0.3% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0147] Furthermore, the quantity of the thickener or thickeners in the composition according to the present invention may be 3% by weight or less, preferably 2% by weight or less, and more preferably 1% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0148] The quantity of the thickener or thickeners in the composition according to the present invention can range from 0.1% to 3% by weight, preferably from 0.2% to 2% by weight, and more preferably from 0.3% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0149] - Surfactant

[0150] The composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one surfactant. Two or more surfactants may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of surfactant or a combination of different types of surfactants may be used.

[0151] The surfactant may be selected from amphoteric, anionic, cationic or nonionic surfactants, used alone or in mixtures. Preferably, the composition includes at least one nonionic surfactant.

[0152] Examples of nonionic surfactants usable in the compositions of the present invention may include polyethoxylated fatty alcohols or polyglycerolated fatty alcohols, such as ethylene oxide adducts with lauryl alcohol, in particular those containing 9 to 50 oxyethylene motifs (Laureth-9 to Laureth-50, according to the INCI names), in particular Laureth-9; esters of polyols and a fatty acid having a saturated or unsaturated chain comprising, for example, 8 to 24 carbon atoms, and their oxyalkylated derivatives, i.e. comprising oxyethylene and / or oxypropylene motifs, such as esters of glycerol and a C8-C24 fatty acid, and their oxyalkylated derivatives, in particular polyoxyethylenated glyceryl stearate (mono-, di- and / or tri-stearate), for example PEG-20 glyceryl triisostearate;C8-C24 sugar and fatty acid esters and their oxyalkylated derivatives, such as polyethoxylated sorbitol esters of C8-C24 fatty acids, in particular Polysorbate 80, such as the product marketed under the name "TWEEN 80" by Croda; C8-C24 sugar and fatty alcohol ethers, such as caprylyl / capryl glucoside; hydrophobized polysaccharides; polyoxyethylenated alkyl ethers; polyoxyethylenated oxypropylene alkyl ethers; fatty acid alkanolamides; alkylamine oxides; alkylpolyglycosides and silicone surfactants, such as a polydimethylsiloxane containing oxyethylene groups and / or oxypropylene groups, for example PEG-10 dimethicone, bis-PEG / PPG-14 / 14 dimethicone, bis-PEG / PPG-20 / 20 dimethicone and PEG / PPG-20 / 6 dimethicone;and a polyglyceryl fatty acid ester such as polyglyceryl-4 caprate, polyglyceryl-10 laurate, polyglyceryl-6 dicaprate, polyglyceryl-6 dicaprate, polyglyceryl-6 dioleate, polyglyceryl-6 caprylate, polyglyceryl-2 oleate and polyglyceryl-6 polyricinoleate; and mixtures thereof.

[0153] It is preferable that the surfactant be of natural origin.

[0154] In addition, as non-ionic surfactants, alkyl polyglycosides, represented by the following general formula (1), can be cited:

[0155] RO-(G)X(1)

[0156] wherein R represents a branched and / or unsaturated alkyl radical comprising 14 to 24 carbon atoms, G represents a reduced sugar comprising 5 or 6 carbon atoms, and x denotes a value from 1 to 10, and preferably from 1 to 4, and G denotes in particular glucose, fructose, or galactose. Examples of alkyl polyglycosides of this type include alkyl polyglucosides (G = glucose in formula (I)) and, in particular, compounds of formula (I) in which R represents more particularly an oleyl radical (unsaturated Ci radical) or isostearyl radical (saturated Ci radical), G designates glucose and x is a value from 1 to 2, in particular isostearyl glycoside, oleyl glucoside, and mixtures thereof. This alkyl polyglucoside can be used in a mixture with a co-emulsifier, more particularly with a fatty alcohol, and in particular a fatty alcohol having the same fatty chain as the alkyl polyglucoside, i.e., comprising 14 to 24 carbon atoms and having a branched and / or unsaturated chain, for example isostearyl alcohol when the alkyl polyglucoside is isostearyl glucoside and oleyl alcohol when the alkyl polyglucoside is oleyl glucoside.

[0157] The quantity of the surfactant(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 1% by weight or more, preferably 2% by weight or more, and more preferably 3% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0158] Furthermore, the quantity of the surfactant(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 10% by weight or less, preferably 7.5% by weight or less, and more preferably 5% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0159] The quantity of the surfactant(s) in the composition according to the present invention can be from 1% to 10% by weight, preferably from 2% to 7.5% by weight, and more preferably from 3% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0160] - Oil

[0161] The composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one oil. Two or more oils may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of oil or a combination of different types of oils may be used.

[0162] Here, "oil" means a fatty compound or a fatty substance which is in the form of a liquid, a paste (non-solid) or a solid, preferably a liquid or a paste, at room temperature (25 °C) under atmospheric pressure (105 Pa). Like oils, those generally used in cosmetics can be used alone or in combination. These oils can be volatile or non-volatile.

[0163] Among the oils that can be used are: volatile or non-volatile oils; these oils can be hydrocarbon-based oils, in particular of animal or vegetable origin, synthetic oils, silicone oils, fluorinated oils, or mixtures thereof.

[0164] For the purposes of the present invention, "hydrocarbon-based oil" or "hydrocarbon oil" is intended to designate an oil containing primarily hydrogen and carbon atoms and optionally oxygen, nitrogen, and other atoms. sulfur and / or phosphorus. Hydrocarbon-based oil contains no silicon atoms.

[0165] For the purposes of the present invention, "silicone oil" is intended to designate an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and in particular at least one Si-O group.

[0166] For the purposes of the present invention, "polar oil" means an oil whose solubility parameter ôa at 25 °C is different from 0 (J / cm3)1 / 2.

[0167] In particular, "polar oil" means an oil whose chemical structure is essentially formed, or even made up, of carbon and hydrogen atoms, and comprising at least one highly electronegative heteroatom such as an oxygen, nitrogen, silicon or phosphorus atom.

[0168] The definition and calculation of the solubility parameters in the three-dimensional solubility space of Hansen are described in the article by CM Hansen: The three-dimensional solubility parameters, J. Paint Technol., 39, 105 (1967).

[0169] According to this Hansen space:

[0170] - ôD characterizes the London dispersion forces resulting from the formation of induced dipoles during molecular impacts;

[0171] - ôp characterizes the Debye interaction forces between permanent dipoles as well as Keesom interaction forces between induced dipoles and permanent dipoles;

[0172] - ôh characterizes specific interaction forces (such as hydrogen bonds, acid / base bonds, donor / acceptor bonds and similar);

[0173] - ôa is determined by the equation: ôa = (ôp2 + ôh2)' / 2.

[0174] The parameters ôp, ôh, ôD and ôa are expressed in (J / cm3)' / 2.

[0175] Preferably, the polar oils used according to the present invention have an ôa between 4 and 9.1, preferably an ôa between 6 and 9.1, better still between 7.3 and 9.1.

[0176] Hydrocarbon oils may be selected from:

[0177] - lower C6-Ci6 alkanes, linear or branched, optionally cyclic. Examples that can be cited include hexane, undecane, dodecane, tridecane and isoparaffins, for example isohexadecane, isododecane and isodecane;

[0178] - linear or branched hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, such as liquid paraffins, liquid petroleum jelly, hydrogenated polydecenes and polyisobutenes such as Parleam®, and squalane; and

[0179] - mixtures of alkanes, for example, C9-12 Alkane, C10-13 Alkane, C13-14 Alkane, C13-15 Alkane, C14-17 Alkane, C14-19 Alkane, C15-19 Alkane, C15-23 Alkane, C18-21 Alkane, C8-9 Alkane / Cycloalkane, C9-10 Alkane / Cycloalkane, C9-11 Alkane / Cycloalkane, C9-16 Alkane / Cycloalkane, C10-12 Alkane / Cycloalkane, Cl 1-14 Alkane / Cycloalkane, Cl 1-15 Alkane / Cycloalkane, C12-13 Alkane / Cycloalkane.

[0180] Preferred examples of hydrocarbon oils include, for example, linear or branched hydrocarbons such as isohexadecane, isododecane, squalane, mineral oil (e.g., liquid paraffin), paraffin, Vaseline or petrolatum, naphthalenes, and the like; hydrogenated polyisobutene, isoeicosane and a decene / butene copolymer; and mixtures thereof.

[0181] Examples of vegetable oils include linseed oil, camellia oil, macadamia nut oil, corn oil, mink oil, olive oil, avocado oil, sasanqua oil, castor oil, safflower oil, jojoba oil, sunflower oil, almond oil, rapeseed oil, sesame oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, and mixtures thereof.

[0182] Examples of animal oils include, for example, squalene and squalane.

[0183] Examples of synthetic oils include alkane oils such as isododecane and isohexadecane, ester oils, ether oils and artificial triglycerides.

[0184] The ester oils are preferably liquid esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, Ci-C26 aliphatic monoacids or polyacids, and of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, Ci-C26 aliphatic monoalcohols or polyalcohols, the total number of carbon atoms of the esters being greater than or equal to 10.

[0185] Preferably, for monoalcohol esters, at least one of the alcohol and acid from which the esters of the present invention are derived is branched.

[0186] Among the monoesters of monoacids and monoalcohols, ethyl palmitate, ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl myristate or ethyl myristate, isocetyl stearate, 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate, isononyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate and isostearyl neopentanoate may be mentioned.

[0187] Esters of C4-C22 dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and CrC22 alcohols and esters of monocarboxylic, dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and C4-C26 non-sugar dihydroxy, trihydroxy, tetrahydroxy or pentahydroxy alcohols may also be used.

[0188] Examples include: diethyl sebacate; isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate; diisopropyl sebacate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; di-n-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) adipate; diisostearyl adipate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) maleate; triisopropyl citrate; triisocetyl citrate; triisostearyl citrate; trilactate glyceryl; glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate; neopentylglycol diheptanoate; diethylene glycol diisononanoate.

[0189] As ester oils, esters and sugar diesters of C6-C3O fatty acids, and preferably C2-C22, may be used. It is recalled that the term "sugar" refers to hydrocarbon compounds bearing oxygen containing several alcohol functional groups, with or without aldehyde or ketone functional groups, and comprising at least four carbon atoms. These sugars may be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides, or polysaccharides.

[0190] Examples of suitable sugars that may be cited include sucrose, glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose and lactose and their derivatives, including alkylated derivatives, such as methylated derivatives, for example methylglucose.

[0191] Sugar esters of fatty acids may be selected in particular from the group comprising the esters or mixtures of esters of sugars described above and of fatty acids in C6-C30, and preferably in C12-C22, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated. If unsaturated, these compounds may have one to three conjugated or non-conjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.

[0192] The esters according to this variant can also be chosen from monoesters, diesters, triesters, tetraesters, polyesters, and mixtures thereof.

[0193] These esters may be, for example, oleates, laurates, palmitates, myristates, behenates, cocoates, stearates, linoleates, linolenates, caprates and arachidonates, or mixtures thereof such as, in particular, mixed esters of oleopalmitate, oleostearate and palmitostearate, as well as pentaerythrityl tetraethyl hexanoate.

[0194] Monoesters and diesters are used in particular, and in particular monooleates or dioleates, stearates, behenates, oleopalmitates, linoleates, linolenates and oleostearates of sucrose, glucose or methylglucose.

[0195] An example that can be cited is the product sold under the name Glucate® DO by the company Amerchol, which is a methylglucose dioleate.

[0196] By way of examples of preferred ester oils, one may cite, for example, diisopropyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, 2-ethylhexyl hexanoate, ethyl laurate, cetyl octanoate, octyldodecyl octanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, myristyle propionate, 2-ethylhexyl 2-ethylhexanoate, 2-ethylhexyl octanoate, 2-ethylhexyl caprylate / caprate, methyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate, isononyl isononanoate, ethylhexyl palmitate, the isohexyl laurate, hexyl laurate, isocetyl stearate, isopropyl isostearate, isopropyl myristate, isodecyl oleate, glyceryl tri(2-ethylhexanoate), the pentaerythrityl tetra(2-ethylhexanoate), 2-ethylhexyl succinate, diethyl sebacate, and mixtures thereof.

[0197] Examples of oil ethers include dialkyl ethers such as those represented by the following formula:

[0198] R'-O-R2

[0199] in which

[0200] - each of R1 and R2 independently designates a C4-C24 alkyl group linear, branched or cyclic, preferably an alkyl group at C6-Ci8, and more preferably an alkyl group at C8-Ci2. It may be preferable that R1 and R2 be identical.

[0201] As linear alkyl groups, mention may be made of a butyl group, a pentyl group, a hexyl group, a heptyl group, an octyl group, a nonyl group, a decyl group, an undecyl group, a dodecyl group, a tridecyl group, a tetradecyl group, a pentadecyl group, a hexadecyl group, a heptadecyl group, an octadecyl group, a nonadecyl group, an eicosyl group, a behenyl group, a docosyl group, a tricosyl group and a tetracosyl group.

[0202] Examples of branched alkyl groups include a 1-methylpropyl group, a 2-methylpropyl group, a t-butyl group, a 1,1-dimethylpropyl group, a 3-methylhexyl group, a 5-methylhexyl group, a 1-ethylhexyl group, a 2-ethylhexyl group, a 1-butylpentyl group, a 5-methyloctyl group, a 1-ethylhexyl group, a 2-ethylhexyl group, a 1-butylpentyl group, a 5-methyloctyl group, a 2-butyloctyl group, an isotridecyl group, a 2-pentylnonyl group, a 2-hexyldecyl group, an isostearyl group, a 2-heptylundecyl group, a 2-octyldodecyl group, a 1,3-dimethylbutyl group, a l-(l-methylethyl)-2-methylpropyl, a 1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl group, a 3,5,5-trimethylhexyl group, an l-(2-methylpropyl)-3-methylbutyl group, a 3,7-dimethyloctyl group and a 2-(l,3,3-trimethylbutyl)-5,7,7-trimethyloctyl group.

[0203] Examples of cyclic alkyl groups include a cyclohexyl group, a 3-methylcyclohexyl group and a 3,3,5-trimethylcyclohexyl group.

[0204] Examples of artificial triglycerides include, for example, capryl caprylyl glycerides, glyceryl trimyristate, glyceryl tripalmitate, glyceryl trilinolenate, glyceryl trilaurate, glyceryl tricaprate, glyceryl tricaprylate, glyceryl tri(caprate / caprylate) and glyceryl tri(caprate / caprylate / linolenate).

[0205] Examples of silicone oils include, for example, linear organopolysiloxanes such as dimethylpolysiloxane, methylphenylpolysiloxane, methylhydrogenopolysiloxane and similar; cyclic organopolysiloxanes such as cyclohexasiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, and similar; and mixtures thereof.

[0206] Preferably, the silicone oil is selected from liquid polydialkylsiloxanes, in particular liquid polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) and liquid polyorganosiloxanes comprising at least one aryl group.

[0207] These silicone oils can also be organomodified. The organomodified silicones that can be used according to the present invention are silicone oils as defined above and comprise in their structure one or more organofunctional groups attached via a hydrocarbon-based group.

[0208] Organopolysiloxanes are defined in more detail in Chemistry and Technology of Silicones (1968) by Walter Noll, Academy Press. They can be volatile or non-volatile.

[0209] When volatile, silicones are particularly chosen from those having a boiling point between 60 °C and 260 °C, and even more particularly from:

[0210] (i) cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes comprising 3 to 7 and preferably 4 with 5 silicon atoms. Examples include octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, sold in particular under the name Volatile Silicone® 7207 by Union Carbide or Silbione® 70045 V2 by Rhodia; decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, sold under the name Volatile Silicone® 7158 by Union Carbide and Silbione® 70045 V5 by Rhodia; and dodecamethylcyclopentasiloxane, sold under the name Silsoft 1217 by Momentive Performance Materials, and mixtures thereof. Also noteworthy are cyclocopolymers such as dimethylsiloxane / methylalkylsiloxane, such as Silicone Volatile® FZ 3109, sold by Union Carbide, with the formula:

[0211] [Chem.l] _ g* .--------D" _ g'--- C with D”: ~ ® with CH3

[0212] Other examples include mixtures of cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes with organosilicon compounds, such as the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and tetratrimethylsilylpentaerythritol (50 / 50) and the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and oxy-l,r-bis(2,2,2',2',3,3'-hexatrimethylsilyloxy)neopentane; and

[0213] (ii) Linear volatile polydialkylsiloxanes containing 2 to 9 silicon atoms and having a viscosity less than or equal to 5 x 10⁶ m² / s at 25 °C. An example is decamethyltetrasiloxane, sold in particular under the name SH 200 by Toray Silicone. Silicones belonging to this category are also described in the article published in Cosmetics and Toiletries, Vol. 91, Jan. 76, pp. 27–32, Todd & Byers, Volatile Silicone Fluids for Cosmetics. The viscosity of silicones is measured at 25 °C according to ASTM 445 Annex C.

[0214] Non-volatile polydialkylsiloxanes can also be used. These non-volatile silicones are more particularly chosen from among the polydialkylsiloxanes, among which the main examples are polydimethylsiloxanes containing trimethylsilyl terminal groups.

[0215] Among these polydialkylsiloxanes, the following commercial products may be cited, without limitation:

[0216] - Silbione® oils from ranges 47 and 70 047 or Mirasil® oils sold by Rhodia, for example oil 70 047 V 500 000;

[0217] - the oils from the Mirasil® range sold by the company Rhodia;

[0218] - Dow Corning's 200 series oils, such as DC200 with a viscosity of 60,000 mm² / s; and

[0219] - Viscasil® oils from General Electric and certain oils in the SF range (SF 96, SF 18) from General Electric.

[0220] We can also mention polydimethylsiloxanes containing dimethylsilanol terminal groups known as dimethiconol (CTFA), such as the oils in the 48 range from the Rhodia company.

[0221] Among silicones containing aryl groups, we can mention polydiarylsiloxanes, in particular polydiphenylsiloxanes and polyalkylarylsiloxanes such as phenyl silicone oil.

[0222] The phenyl silicone oil may be selected from the phenyl silicones of the following formula:

[0223] in which

[0224] - Ri in Rio are, independently of each other, hydrocarbon radicals saturated or unsaturated, linear, cyclic or branched in C1-C30, preferably C1-C12 hydrocarbon radicals, and more preferably C1-C6 hydrocarbon radicals, in particular methyl, ethyl, propyl or butyl radicals and

[0225] - m, n, p and q are, independently of each other, integers from 0 up to 900 inclusive, preferably from 0 to 500 inclusive, and more preferably from 0 to 100 inclusive,

[0226] provided that the sum n+m+q is different from 0.

[0227] Examples that may be cited include products sold under the following names:

[0228] - Silbione® oils from the 70 641 range by Rhodia;

[0229] - the oils from the Rhodorsil® 70 633 and 763 ranges from Rhodia;

[0230] - Dow Corning 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid oil from Dow Corning;

[0231] - silicones from Bayer's PK range, such as product PK20;

[0232] - certain oils in the General Electric SF range, such as SF 1023, SF 1154, SF 1250 and SF 1265.

[0233] As a phenylsilicone oil, phenyltrimethicone (Ri to Rio are a methyl; p, qetn = 0; m=l in the formula above) is preferable.

[0234] Organomodified liquid silicones may contain polyethyleneoxy and / or polypropyleneoxy groups. Examples include KF-6017 silicone offered by Shin-Etsu, and Silwet® L722 and L77 oils from Union Carbide.

[0235] The oil may preferably be chosen from ester oils, and more preferably from diisopropyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, 2-ethylhexyl hexanoate, ethyl laurate, cetyl octanoate, octyldodecyl octanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, myristyle propionate, 2-ethylhexyl 2-ethylhexanoate, 2-ethylhexyl octanoate, 2-ethylhexyl caprylate / caprate, methyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, palmitate isopropyl, dicaprylyl carbonate, isopropyl lauroylsarcosinate, isononyl isononanoate, ethylhexyl palmitate, isohexyl laurate, hexyl laurate, isocetyl stearate, isopropyl isostearate, isopropyl myristate, isodecyl oleate, glyceryl tri(2-ethylhexanoate), pentaerythrityl tetra(2-ethylhexanoate), 2-ethylhexyl succinate, diethyl sebacate, and mixtures thereof.

[0236] In a preferred embodiment, the oil is selected from ester oils of amino acid derivatives, in particular C6-C22 N-acylamino acid esters, which may be of natural origin.

[0237] The N-acylamino acid ester or esters are generally of the following formula:

[0238] R'i(CO)N(R'2)CH(R'3)(CH2)n(CO)OR'4

[0239] in which:

[0240] - n is an integer equal to 0, 1 or 2,

[0241] - R'i represents a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl radical at C5 to C2b

[0242] - R'2 represents a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group in C1 to C3,

[0243] - R'3 represents a radical chosen from the group formed by a hydrogen atom, a methyl group, an ethyl group, a linear or branched alkyl radical at C3 or C4,

[0244] - R'4 represents a linear or branched alkyl radical at C1 to C10 or a linear alkenyl radical at C2 to C10 branched, or a sterol residue.

[0245] Preferably, the R'i(CO)- group is an acyl group of an acid selected from the group formed by capric acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, behenic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, oleic acid, isostearic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, coconut oil fatty acids, and palm kernel oil fatty acids. These fatty acids may also contain a hydroxyl group. Even more preferably, this is lauric acid.

[0246] The -N(R'2)CH(R'3)(CH2)n(CO)- portion of the amino acid ester is preferably selected from the following amino acids: glycine, alanine, valine, leucine, isoleucine, serine, threonine, proline, hydroxyproline, [3-alanine, aminobutyric acid, aminocaproic acid, sarcosine, N-methyl-[3-alanine.

[0247] Even more preferentially, it is sarcosine.

[0248] The portion of amino acid esters corresponding to the OR'4 group can be obtained from alcohols selected from the group formed by methanol, ethanol, propanol, isopropanol, butanol, tert-butanol, isobutanol, 3-methyl-l-butanol, 2-methyl-l-butanol, fusel oil, pentanol, hexanol, cyclohexanol, octanol, 2-ethylhexanol, decanol, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, cetostearyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, alcohol behenyl, jojoba alcohol, 2-hexadecyl alcohol, 2-octyldodecanol and isostearyl alcohol.

[0249] These amino acid esters can be obtained in particular from natural sources of amino acids. In this case, the amino acids come from the hydrolysis of natural plant proteins (oats, wheat, soy, palm or coconut) and then necessarily lead to mixtures of amino acids which must then be esterified and then N-acylated.

[0250] The preferred ester oil of all may be an isopropyl lauroylsarcosinate amino acid derivative.

[0251] The oil may be able to suppress crystallization of the (a) water-sensitive cosmetic active ingredient, particularly when stored at low temperatures, such as 4°C.

[0252] The quantity of oil(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 1% by weight or more, preferably 2% by weight or more, and more preferably 3% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0253] The total quantity of oil(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 10% by weight or less, preferably 8% by weight or less, and more preferably 6% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0254] The total quantity of oil(s) in the composition according to the present invention can range from 1% to 10% by weight, preferably from 2% to 8% by weight, and more preferably from 3% to 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0255] - Monovalent C 2-4 alcohol

[0256] The composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one monovalent C2.4 alcohol. Two or more different types of monovalent C2.4 alcohols may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of monovalent C2.4 alcohol or a combination of different types of monovalent C2.4 alcohols may be used.

[0257] Monovalent C2 4 alcohol is not a fatty alcohol or a higher alcohol.

[0258] The term "monovalent" alcohol here refers to an alcohol having a hydroxy group.

[0259] Monovalent C2 4 alcohol can be non-aromatic (aliphatic).

[0260] The monovalent C2 4 alcohol is preferably a monovalent aliphatic alcohol in C2.4 saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched. Preferred monovalent C2.4 alcohols are ethanol, propanol, isopropanol, and mixtures thereof.

[0261] The amount of the monovalent C2.4 alcohol(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 1% by weight or more, preferably 2% by weight or plus, and more preferably 3% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0262] The quantity of the monovalent C2 4 alcohol(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 15% by weight or less, preferably 10% by weight or less, and more preferably 5% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0263] The quantity of monovalent C2 4 alcohol(s) in the composition according to the present invention can be from 1% to 15% by weight, preferably from 2% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 3% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0264] - Adjuvants

[0265] The composition according to the present invention may or may not include any adjuvant typically used in cosmetics, such as cosmetically acceptable organic solvents; inorganic or organic powders; anionic, non-ionic, cationic, amphoteric or zwitterionic polymers, or mixtures thereof; natural extracts derived from animals or plants; lipophilic thickening agents; colorants; other cosmetic active agents; perfumes; antioxidants; pH correctors; preservatives; and opacifying agents, within a range that does not alter the effects of the present invention.

[0266] The total quantity of adjuvants in the composition according to the present invention can range from 0.01% to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 20% by weight, and more preferably from 0.5% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0267] The composition according to the present invention can be prepared by mixing the essential and optional ingredients above according to any of the methods well known to the person skilled in the art.

[0268] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises, relative to the total weight of the composition:

[0269] (a) from 0.1% to 10% by weight of at least one cosmetic active ingredient sensitive to water chosen from among the derivatives of cinnamic acid represented by formula (I):

[0270] [Chem.2]

[0271] in which

[0272] - A is chosen from

[0273] - an OR3 group in which R3 is chosen from a hydrogen atom, a group phytyl, a benzyl group, a linear or branched CrCi8 alkyl group, a C3-C8 cycloalkyl group, a C3-C8-Ci-C5 cycloalkyl group, an alkali metal ion, an alkaline earth metal ion, and an ammonium ion,

[0274] and

[0275] - an NHR4 group in which R4 is chosen from a hydrogen atom, a group phytyl, a benzyl group, and a linear or branched CrCi8 alkyl group, a C3-C8 cycloalkyl group, a C3-C8 cycloalkyl-C1-C5 alkyl group,

[0276] - Ri is chosen from a hydrogen atom, a hydroxyl group, an alkoxy group in C1-C6, a linear or branched CrC1-C8 alkyl group, a C3-C8 cycloalkyl group, a C3-C8 cycloalkyl-alkyl group in C1-C5, and,

[0277] - R2 is chosen from a hydrogen atom, a hydroxyl group and a group alkoxy in Ci-C6;

[0278] (a) from 50% to 98% by weight of at least one polyol selected from diols and triols linear or branched, having from 2 to 8 carbon atoms; and

[0279] (b) from 0.2% to 3% by weight of at least one [3-hydroxy acid] selected from the acid salicylic acid and its alkylated derivatives.

[0280] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises, relative to the total weight of the composition:

[0281] (a) 1.5% to 4% by weight of at least one sensitive cosmetic active ingredient to water selected from 2-ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, isopropyl methoxycinnamate, isoamyl methoxycinnamate, diisopropyl methoxycinnamate, caffeic acid, ferulic acid, and their combinations;

[0282] (b) of 75% to 90% by weight of at least two polyols selected from the diols selected from hexylene glycol, propanediol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, pentylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, diethylene glycol, and butylene glycol; and triols selected from glycerin; and

[0283] (c) from 0.2% to 3% by weight of at least one [3-hydroxy acid] selected from 5-n-octanoylsalicylic acid, 5-n-decanoylsalicylic acid, 5-n-dodecanoylsalicylic acid, 5-n-octylsalicylic acid, 5-n-heptyloxysalicylic acid, 4-n-heptyloxysalicylic acid, 5-tert-octylsalicylic acid, 3-tert-butyl-5-methylsalicylic acid, 3-tert-butyl-6-methylsalicylic acid, 3,5-diisopropylsalicylic acid, 5-butoxysalicylic acid, 5-octyloxysalicylic acid, 5-propanoylsalicylic acid, 5-n-hexadecanoylsalicylic acid 5-n-oleoylsalicylic acid, 5-benzoylsalicylic acid, their monovalent and divalent salts, and their mixtures. [PROCESS]

[0284] The present invention also relates to a cosmetic process for a keratinous material, comprising the step of applying the composition according to the present invention to the keratinous material.

[0285] The cosmetic process according to the present invention may be a non-therapeutic process.

[0286] The cosmetic process according to the present invention can be intended for the treatment and / or care of keratinous material, such as skin, hair, scalp, nails and lips, preferably skin.

[0287] Since the composition according to the present invention includes (a) the cosmetic active ingredient in a stable state, the process according to the present invention can efficiently deliver (a) the cosmetic active ingredient to the keratinous material. [USE]

[0288] The present invention also relates to the use of (b) polyol and (c) [3-hydroxy acid in an amount of 0.2% to 4.3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition to stabilize the (a) water-sensitive cosmetic active ingredient.

[0289] The other technical features and optional ingredients as described in the composition can be applied to the process and use according to the present invention. EXAMPLES

[0290] The present invention will be described in more detail by means of examples. However, these examples shall not be construed as limiting the scope of the present invention. The examples below are presented as non-limiting illustrations within the field of the present invention. [Compositions]

[0291] Each of the compositions according to Examples 1 to 4 (Ex. 1 to Ex. 4) and Comparative Examples 1 to 3 (Ex. Comp. 1 to Ex. Comp. 3) was prepared by mixing the ingredients listed in Table 1 below. The numerical values ​​for the quantities of the ingredients are all based on the "% by weight" as active raw materials. [Reviews] (Color stability)

[0292] Each composition was left to stand at 45 °C for a maximum of 2 months. After 2 months, the color values ​​(L*, a*, b*) of the composition were measured using the V-750 spectrophotometer. The color stability was then evaluated by the ΔE (AE) of the composition between 24 h at room temperature after production and after 2 months at 45 °C using the equation below.

[0293] [Chem.3] Ait '4" ™' '''

[0294] Where L*id, a*iD, b*iD are L*, a*, b* values ​​of the composition after 24 h at room temperature, respectively, and L*2M, a*2M, b*2M are L*, a*, b* values ​​of the composition after 2 months at 45 °C, respectively.

[0295] The evaluation was carried out according to the following criteria.

[0296] Very good: AE <2

[0297] Good: 2 <AE<5

[0298] Correct: 5 <AE<10

[0299] Bad: 10 <AE<30

[0300] Very bad: 30 <AE (Crystallization)

[0301] Each composition was left to stand at room temperature (4°C) for a maximum of 2 months. After 2 months, crystallization was assessed by observing the composition with the naked eye.

[0302] OK: no crystals were observed in the composition after 2 months of storage at 4 °C.

[0303] NG: at least one crystal was observed in the composition after 2 months of storage at 4 °C. (Stability of the active ingredient)

[0304] Each of the compositions was left to stand at 45 °C for a maximum of 2 months. After 2 months, the residual level (%) of ferulic acid after storage at 45 °C The concentration of ferulic acid was measured by HPLC for two months and calculated based on the initial percentage (24 hours after production) measured by HPLC. Subsequently, the stability of ferulic acid was evaluated according to the following criteria.

[0305] Very good: Residual ferulic content (%) > 95

[0306] Good: 90 < Residual ferulic content (%) < 95

[0307] Correct: 80 < Residual ferulic content (%) < 90

[0308] Poor: Residual ferulic content (%) < 80 (Odor assessment)

[0309] The odor of each composition was evaluated by 5 panelists on a scale of 0 (No bad odor) to 1 (Bad odor detected). The sum of the scores was calculated and ranked according to the following criteria.

[0310] OK: Sum = 0

[0311] NG: 1 < Sum < 5

[0312] The results are shown in Table 1.

[0313] [Tables 1] Ingredients Ex. 1 Ex. 2 Ex. 3 Ex. 4 Ex. comp. 1 Ex. comp. 2 Ex. comp. 3 Propanediol 24.69 24.69 24.69 24.69 24.69 24.69 24.69 Glycerin 12.34 12.34 12.34 12.34 12.34 12.34 12.34 Dipropylene glycol 46.24 47.54 44.74 50.35 47.74 47.64 42.74 Ammonium polyacryloyldimethyl taurate 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 Polyglyceryl caprylate 4.12 4.12 4.12 - 4.12 4.12 4.12 Capryloyl salicylic acid 1.5 0.2 3 1.5 - 0.1 5 Isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate 4.12 4.12 4.12 4.12 4.12 4.12 4.12 Ferulic acid 2.5 2.5 2.5 2.5 2.5 2.5 2.5 Ethanol 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 Evaluation Color stability Good Fair Good Very poor Poor Fair Crystallization at 4°C OK OK OK OK OK OK NG Active ingredient stability Very good Very good Very good Very good Good Very good Good Odor assessment OK OK OK OK OK OK OK OK

[0314] As shown in Table 1, the compositions according to the present invention comprising the combination of ingredients (a) to (c) exhibited good color stability, and could suppress crystal formation and degradation of the active ingredients (ferulic acid), and bad odors.

[0315] On the other hand, the composition according to Comparative Examples 1 to 3, which did not include the specific amount of (b) [3-hydroxy acid, exhibited poor color stability, and / or could not suppress crystal formation and degradation of the active ingredients.

[0316] Consequently, it can be concluded that the composition according to the present invention is very suitable as a cosmetic composition, in particular as a topical cosmetic composition for keratinous materials because it can effectively deliver the active cosmetic ingredient to keratinous materials.

Claims

1.

2. Demands Composition includes: (a) at least one water-sensitive cosmetic active ingredient; (b) at least one polyol; and (c) at least one [3-hydroxy acid in an amount of 0.2% to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Composition according to claim 1, wherein (a) the water-sensitive cosmetic active ingredient is selected from the cinnamic acid derivatives represented by formula (I): in which - A is chosen from - an OR3 group in which R3 is selected from a hydrogen atom, a phytyl group, a benzyl group, a linear or branched Ci-Ci8 alkyl group, a C3-C8 cycloalkyl group, a C3-C8-Ci-C5 cycloalkyl group, an alkali metal ion, an alkaline earth metal ion, and an ammonium ion, and - an NHR4 group in which R4 is selected from a hydrogen atom, a phytyl group, a benzyl group, and a linear or branched Ci-Ci8 alkyl group, a C3-C8 cycloalkyl group, a C3-C8 cycloalkyl-C1-C5 alkyl group, - Ri is chosen from a hydrogen atom, a hydroxyl group, a Ci-C6 alkoxy group, a linear or branched Ci-Ci8 alkyl group, a C3-C8 cycloalkyl group, a C3-C8 cycloalkyl group, a C1-C5 alkyl cycloalkyl group, and, - R2 is chosen from a hydrogen atom, a hydroxyl group and an alkoxy group in Ci-C6.

3. Composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein (a) the water-sensitive cosmetic active ingredient is selected from 2-ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, isopropyl methoxycinnamate, isoamyl methoxycinnamate, diisopropyl methoxycinnamate, caffeic acid, ferulic acid, and combinations thereof.

4. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the (b) polyol is selected from linear or branched diols and triols having from 2 to 8 carbon atoms.

5. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the (b) polyol comprises at least two polyols selected from diols selected from hexylene glycol, propanediol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, pentylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, diethylene glycol and butylene glycol; and triols selected from glycerin.

6. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein (c) [3-hydroxy acid is selected from salicylic acid and its alkylated derivatives.

7. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, wherein (c) [3-hydroxy acid is selected from 5-n-octanoylsalicylic acid, 5-n-decanoylsalicylic acid, 5-n-dodecanoylsalicylic acid, 5-n-octylsalicylic acid, 5-n-heptyloxysalicylic acid, 4-n-heptyloxysalicylic acid, 5-tert-octylsalicylic acid, 3-tert-butyl-5-methylsalicylic acid, 3-tert-butyl-6-methylsalicylic acid, 3,5-diisopropylsalicylic acid, 5-butoxysalicylic acid, 5-octyloxysalicylic acid, 5-propanoylsalicylic acid, 5-n-hexadecanoylsalicylic acid, 5-n-oleoylsalicylic acid, 5-benzoylsalicylic acid, their monovalent and divalent salts, and their mixtures.

8. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, wherein the amount of the (a) water-sensitive cosmetic active ingredient(s) in the composition ranges from 0.1% to 10% by weight, preferably from 1% to 8% by weight, and more preferably from 1.5% to 4% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

9. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8, wherein the amount of (b) polyol in the composition ranges from 50% to 98% by weight, preferably from 62.5% to 95% by weight, and more 34 preferably from 75% to 90% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

10. A process for treating and / or caring for keratinous material, comprising a step of applying the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9 on the keratinous material.