COMPOSITION AND PROCESS FOR THE TREATMENT OF KERATINOUS MATERIALS
A composition with C-glycosides, amino sugars, and Inonotus obliquas extracts enhances LGI3 expression, addressing the inadequacies of existing anti-aging products by providing effective skin care through improved skin barrier differentiation and UV protection.
Patent Information
- Authority / Receiving Office
- FR · FR
- Patent Type
- Utility models
- Current Assignee / Owner
- LOREAL SA
- Filing Date
- 2024-12-02
- Publication Date
- 2026-05-01
AI Technical Summary
Existing cosmetic products are inadequate in effectively resisting skin aging due to deficiencies in enhancing leucine-rich glioma inactivated 3 (LGI3) expression in keratinocytes, which is crucial for skin barrier differentiation and protection against UV radiation.
A composition comprising C-glycosides, amino sugars, and extracts from Inonotus obliquas is formulated to enhance LGI3 expression in keratinocytes, providing a non-therapeutic method for skin care.
The composition significantly enhances LGI3 expression, offering a synergistic anti-aging effect on keratinous materials, particularly the skin, by improving skin barrier differentiation and protection.
Abstract
Description
Title of the invention: COMPOSITION AND METHOD FOR THE CARE OF KERATINOUS MATERIALS technical field
[0001] The present invention relates to a composition. In particular, the present invention relates to a composition for the care of keratinous materials. The present invention also relates to a non-therapeutic method for the care of keratinous materials. BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION
[0002] The skin is the protective barrier of the human body. It protects the body's interior against physical damage (such as trauma) and biological damage (such as that caused by bacteria, viruses, or fungi). The epidermis is a keratinized stratified squamous epithelium. Its average thickness ranges from 60 to 100 µm and can reach 600 to 700 µm on the soles of the feet and the palms of the hands. It is composed mainly of keratinocytes, but also of other cells, and rests on a basement membrane that separates it from the dermis.
[0003] The main changes concerning the dermis are a decrease in collagen content and dermal thickness.
[0004] The main changes concerning the epidermis are a decrease in the differentiation of keratinocytes, resulting in a deficiency of the protein matrix of the corneal cell, an increase in metalloproteinases, which are proteases that degrade the extracellular matrix and participate in skin aging, as well as a decrease in the synthesis of various glycosaminoglycans.
[0005] According to recent research published in the scientific literature, leucine-rich glioma inactivated 3 (LGI3) has emerged as a relatively new but promising target with potential benefits for skin barrier differentiation. Studies have demonstrated that enhanced LGI3 expression can also help protect the skin against UV radiation.
[0006] A wide variety of cosmetic products are used to care for the skin, for example, to combat skin aging. However, some cosmetic products on the market for combating skin aging are not satisfactory in terms of effectiveness.
[0007] Thus, there is always a need to formulate a skin care composition that can effectively resist skin aging. Summary of the invention
[0008] An object of the present invention is therefore to develop a skin care composition which can effectively resist skin aging.
[0009] Another object of the present invention is to propose a non-therapeutic method for the treatment of keratinous materials.
[0010] Consequently, in a first aspect, the present invention proposes a composition comprising: i. at least one C-glycoside; ii. at least one amino sugar; and iii. at least one extract from Inonotus obliquas.
[0011] The inventors have discovered that the composition of the present invention can enhance the expression of LGI3 in the production of keratinocytes and can therefore be used to resist the aging of keratinous materials.
[0012] In a second aspect, the present invention proposes a non-therapeutic method for the treatment of keratinous materials, comprising the application of the composition according to the first aspect of the present invention on the keratinous materials.
[0013] Other subjects, features, aspects, and advantages of the present invention will be presented in the following description and will be partly evident from the description or may be learned through practice of the present invention. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION
[0014] Unless otherwise defined, all technical and scientific terms used herein have the same meaning as that commonly understood by a person skilled in the art of the present invention. Where the definition of a term in this description conflicts with the meaning commonly understood by a person skilled in the art of the present invention, the definition described herein shall apply.
[0015] In what follows and unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a range of values are included in that range, in particular, in the expressions "between...and..." and "from...to...".
[0016] Furthermore, the expression "at least one" used in this description is equivalent to the expression "one or more".
[0017] Throughout this application, the term "including" shall be interpreted as encompassing all the specifically mentioned features as well as optional, additional, unspecified features. As used herein, the use of the term "including" also discloses the embodiment in which no features other than the specifically mentioned features are present (i.e., "consisting of").
[0018] Unless otherwise specified, all numerical values expressing a quantity of ingredients and the like used in the description and claims shall be understood as modified by the term "approximately". Consequently, unless otherwise indicated, the numerical values and parameters described herein are approximate values which, if necessary, can be changed according to the desired purpose.
[0019] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "keratinous materials" is intended to refer to human skin, in particular facial skin and lips. Facial skin is specifically considered in the context of the present invention.
[0020] In the present invention, all percentages refer, unless otherwise specified, to a percentage by weight.
[0021] According to the first aspect, the composition of the present invention comprises: i. at least one C-glycoside; ii. at least one amino sugar; and iii. at least one extract from Inonotus obliquas. C-glycosides
[0022] According to the first aspect, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one C-glycoside.
[0023] Preferably, the C-glycoside is selected from compounds of formula (I): XR ®
[0024] in which:
[0025] - R represents a saturated alkyl radical in C1 to C1, in particular in C1 to C4, which can optionally be substituted by at least one radical chosen from OH, COOH or COOR"2, R"2 being a saturated Ci-C4 alkyl radical,
[0026] - S represents a monosaccharide or polysaccharide comprising up to 20 sugar motifs, in particular up to 6 sugar motifs, in the form of pyranose and / or furanose and of the L and / or D series, knowing that said monosaccharide or polysaccharide may be substituted by a hydroxyl group which is necessarily free and optionally one or more optionally protected amine functional groups, and
[0027] - X represents a radical chosen from the groups -CO-, -CH(OH)-, -CH(NH2)-, - CH(NHCH2CH2CH2OH)-, -CH(NHPh)- and -CH(CH3)- and in particular a radical -CO-, -CH(OH)- or -CH(NH2)- and more particularly a radical -CH(OH)-,
[0028] the S-CH2-X bond represents a C-anomeric bond, which can be α or [3, and also their physiologically acceptable salts, their solvates, such as hydrates, and their optical and geometric isomers.
[0029] The C-glycosides used for the implementation of the invention are in particular those for which R designates a linear alkyl radical saturated in Ci-C6, in particular in C1-C4, preferably in Ci-C2 and more preferably, a methyl radical.
[0030] In particular, we can mention, among the alkyl groups suitable for the implementation of the invention, the methyl, ethyl, isopropyl, n-propyl, n-butyl, t-butyl, isobutyl, sec-butyl, pentyl, n-hexyl, cyclopropyl, cyclopentyl or cyclohexyl groups.
[0031] According to one embodiment of the invention, a C-glycoside corresponding to formula (I) can be used, for which S can represent a monosaccharide or a polysaccharide comprising up to 6 sugar motifs, in the form of pyranose and / or furanose and of the L and / or D series, said monosaccharide or polysaccharide having at least one necessarily free hydroxyl functional group and / or optionally one or more necessarily protected amine functional groups, X and R otherwise retaining all the above definitions.
[0032] Advantageously, a monosaccharide of the invention can be chosen from D-glucose, D-galactose, D-mannose, D-xylose, D-lyxose or L-fucose, L-arabinose, L-rhamnose, D-glucuronic acid, D-galacturonic acid, D-iduronic acid, N-acetyl-D-glucosamine or N-acetyl-D-galactosamine and advantageously designates D-glucose, D-xylose, N-acetyl-D-glucosamine or L-fucose and in particular D-xylose.
[0033] More particularly, a polysaccharide of the invention comprising up to 6 sugar motifs can be selected from D-maltose, D-lactose, D-cellobiose, D-maltotriose, a disaccharide combining a uronic acid selected from D-iduronic acid or D-glucuronic acid with a hexosamine selected from D-galactosamine, D-glucosamine, N-acetyl-D-galactosamine or N-acetyl-D-glucosamine, an oligosaccharide comprising at least one xylose which can advantageously be selected from xylobiose, methyl-[3-xylobioside, xylotriose, xylotetraose, xylopentaose and xylohexaose, and in particular xylobiose, which is composed of two xylose molecules linked via a 1-4 bond.
[0034] More particularly, S can represent a monosaccharide chosen from D-glucose, D-xylose, L-fucose, D-galactose or D-maltose and in particular D-xylose.
[0035] Preferably, a C-glycoside of formula (I) is used, for which:
[0036] - R denotes an alkyl radical in the C1-C4 position, in particular in a linear unsubstituted C1-C2 position, including a methyl radical;
[0037] - S represents a monosaccharide as described above and chosen in particular among D-glucose, D-xylose, N-acetyl-D-glucosamine or L-fucose, and in particular D-xylose;
[0038] - X represents a group chosen from -CO-, -CH(OH)- or -CH(NH2)- and, of preferably a -CH(OH)- group.
[0039] Acceptable salts of the compounds described in the present invention include conventional non-toxic salts of said compounds, such as those formed from organic or inorganic acids. Examples include salts of inorganic acids such as sulfuric acid and hydrochloric acid. Examples also include salts of organic acids, which may comprise one or more carboxylic, sulfonic, or phosphonic acid groups. In particular, examples include propionic acid, acetic acid, terephthalic acid, citric acid, and tartaric acid.
[0040] When the compound of formula (I) comprises an acid group, the neutralization of the acid group(s) can be carried out with an inorganic base, such as LiOH, NaOH, KOH, Ca(OH)2, NH4OH, Mg(OH)2, or Zn(OH)2, or with an organic base, such as a primary, secondary, or tertiary alkylamine, for example, triethylamine or butylamine. This primary, secondary, or tertiary alkylamine may comprise one or more nitrogen and / or oxygen atoms and may therefore comprise, for example, one or more alcohol functional groups; examples include 2-amino-2-methylpropanol, triethanolamine, 2-(dimethylamino)propanol, or 2-amino-2-(hydroxymethyl)-1,3-propanediol. Lysine or 3-(dimethylamino)propylamine may also be mentioned.
[0041] Solvates that are acceptable for the compounds described in the present invention include conventional solvates, such as those formed during the final stage of preparation of said compounds due to the presence of solvents. Examples include solvates due to the presence of water or linear or branched alcohols, such as ethanol or isopropanol.
[0042] Of course, according to the invention, a C-glycoside corresponding to formula (I) can be used alone or in mixture with other C-glycosides and in any proportion.
[0043] A C-glycoside suitable for the invention can in particular be obtained by the synthesis process described in document WO 02 / 051828.
[0044] By way of non-limiting illustration of C-glycoside compounds that are particularly suitable for the invention, the following compounds may be cited in particular:
[0045] - C-[3-D-xylopyranoside-n-propan-2-one,
[0046] - C-a-D-xylopyranoside-n-propan-2-one,
[0047] - C-[3-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane,
[0048] - C-a-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane,
[0049] - l-(C-[3-D-fucopyranoside)propan-2-one,
[0050] - l-(C-a-D-fucopyranoside)propan-2-one,
[0051] - l-(C-[3-L-fucopyranoside)propan-2-one,
[0052] - l-(C-a-L-fucopyranoside)propan-2-one,
[0053] - l-(C-[3-D-fucopyranoside)-2-hydroxypropane,
[0054] - l-(C-a-D-fucopyranoside)-2-hydroxypropane,
[0055] - l-(C-[3-L-fucopyranoside)-2-hydroxypropane,
[0056] - l-(C-a-L-fucopyranoside)-2-hydroxypropane,
[0057] - l-(C-[3-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-hydroxypropane,
[0058] - l-(C-a-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-hydroxypropane,
[0059] - l-(C-[3-D-galactopyranosyl)-2-hydroxypropane,
[0060] - l-(CaD-galactopyranosyl)-2-hydroxypropane,
[0061] - l-(C-[3-D-fucofuranosyl)propan-2-one,
[0062] - l-(CaD-fucofuranosyl)propan-2-one,
[0063] - l-(C-[3-L-fucofuranosyl)propan-2-one,
[0064] - l-(CaL-fucofuranosyl)propan-2-one,
[0065] - CPD-maltopyranoside-n-propan-2-one,
[0066] - CaD-maltopyranoside-n-propan-2-one,
[0067] - C-[3-D-maltopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane,
[0068] - CaD-maltopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane, their isomers, and mixtures thereof.
[0069] According to one embodiment, C-[3-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane or CaD-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane and even better C-[3-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane can be advantageously used for the composition according to the invention.
[0070] Most preferably, the composition according to the present invention comprises C-[3-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane (or hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol).
[0071] Advantageously, the C-glycoside is present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.0001% by weight to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.001% by weight to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.01% by weight to 10% by weight, even more preferably from 0.02% by weight to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Amino sugars
[0072] According to the first aspect, the composition according to the present invention comprises at least one amino sugar.
[0073] As used here, the term aminosugar refers to a sugar derivative formed by replacing a hydroxyl group with an amino group in a monosaccharide molecule.
[0074] The amino sugar useful in the composition according to the present invention can be a natural amino sugar or a synthetic or semi-synthetic amino sugar.
[0075] The term amino sugar is also used here to encompass amino sugars that may have been chemically modified while retaining their function. Such chemical modifications include, but are not limited to, esterification, sulfation, polysulfation, acetylation, and methylation. Preferably, the chemical modifications are carried out on the amino group.
[0076] Preferably, the amino sugar is selected from glucosamine, D-glucosamine, GDP-glucosamine, mannosamine, UDP-glucosamine, N-benzoyl-D-glucosamine, galactosamine, D-glucosamine hydrochloride, glucosamine sulfate, glucosamine phosphate, D-glucosamine oxyme HCl, 6-deoxy-D-glucosamine, N-methyl-D-glucosamine, N-propyl-D-glucosamine, N-octyl-D-glucosamine, N-butyryl-D-glucosamine, N-benzoyl-D-glucosamine, N-hexanoyl-D-glucosamine, N-acetyl-D-glucosamine, N-acetyl-D-glucosamine, N-acetyl-D-glucosamine, N-acetylgalactosamine, N-alloc glucosamine, N-benzoyl-D-glucosamine, N-butanoyl-D-glucosamine, N-propanoyl-D-glucosamine, pentaacetyl-D-glucosamine, N-valeryl-D-glucosamine, N-octanoyl-D-glucosamine, and combinations thereof.
[0077] More preferably, the amino sugar is chosen from N-boc-D-glucosamine, N-hexanoyl-D-glucosamine, N-acetyl-D-glucosamine, N-acetyl-D-glucosamine, N-acetyl galactosamine, N-alloc glucosamine, N-benzoyl-D-glucosamine, N-butanoyl-D-glucosamine, N-propanoyl-D-glucosamine, pentaacetyl-D-glucosamine, N-valeryl-D-glucosamine, N-octanoyl-D-glucosamine, and their combinations.
[0078] More preferably, the amino sugar is chosen from N-boc-D-glucosamine, N-hexanoyl-D-glucosamine, N-acetyl-D-glucosamine, N-alloc glucosamine, N-benzoyl-D-glucosamine, N-butanoyl-D-glucosamine, N-propanoyl-D-glucosamine, N-valeryl-D-glucosamine, N-octanoyl-D-glucosamine, and their combinations.
[0079] Even more preferably, the composition according to the present invention comprises N-acetyl-D-glucosamine.
[0080] Advantageously, the amino sugar is present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.00001% by weight to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.0001% by weight to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.0002% by weight to 3% by weight, even more preferably from 0.0003% by weight to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Extracts from Inonotus obliquas
[0081] According to the first aspect, the composition according to the present invention comprises at least one extract of Inonotus obliquus.
[0082] The fungus Inonotus obliquus is a basidiomycete fungus of the family Hymenochaetaceae known as chaga or oblique polypore. It is found on birch bark in several regions of the world, including Russia, Canada, and Eastern Europe.
[0083] The extract of Inonotus obliquus can be extracted from the whole mushroom or from one or more parts of the mushroom.
[0084] The extract of Inonotus obliquus can be obtained by any extraction process known to those skilled in the art, chosen from hot decoction, grinding including ultrasonic grinding, the use of a mixer, maceration, extraction in water under subcritical conditions or extraction with the aid of a solvent.
[0085] The extraction pressure shall be between 10 MPa (100 bar) and 25 MPa (250 bar), preferably between 15 and 22.1 MPa (between 150 and 221 bar).
[0086] The extraction can be carried out using dry or fresh material, advantageously dry material, in an amount of 0.1% by weight to 20% by weight, preferably 1% by weight to 10% by weight, very preferably 5% by weight to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the material and the extraction solvent.
[0087] Extraction can be carried out at a temperature ranging from 4 °C to 300 °C, including at room temperature, i.e. at a temperature of 20 °C.
[0088] The extraction can be carried out for a period of a few seconds to 24 hours, preferably from 1 minute to 12 hours, more preferably for a period of 5 minutes to 5 hours, and more preferably for a period of 15 minutes to 2 hours.
[0089] The solvent may be chosen from water, or a mixture of solvents, preferably a polar protic solvent, and preferably in water, an alcohol, a glycol, a polyol, a water / alcohol mixture, water / glycol or water / polyol (such as water mixed with ethanol, glycerol and / or butylene glycol and / or other glycols such as xylitol and / or propanediol, etc.), from 99 / 1 to 1 / 99 (w / w), preferably in water as the sole solvent.
[0090] Preferably, the Inonotus obliquus extract is an extract obtained by aqueous extraction. For the purposes of the present invention, the expression "extract obtained by aqueous extraction" means any extract obtained by extraction with an aqueous solution containing more than 60% by weight, preferably at least 70% by weight, more preferably at least 80% by weight, even more preferably at least 90% by weight, and even more preferably at least 95% by weight, of water relative to the total weight of the aqueous solution, even more preferably not containing glycol, and even more preferably containing only water.
[0091] Preferably, the extraction can be carried out in the presence of a nonionic surfactant, preferably chosen from lauryl glucoside sold under the name Plantacare® 1200UP by BASF or alternatively caprylyl / capryl glucoside (Plantacare® 810 UP). The weight concentration of the nonionic surfactant can be between 0.5% and 5%, preferably between 0.5% and 1%; more preferably, it will be 1%, relative to the total weight of the extract.
[0092] Preferably, the extraction will be carried out in water under subcritical conditions.
[0093] By extraction under "subcritical conditions" means extraction in the presence of water, under conditions of temperature above 100 °C and pressure below 22.1 MPa (221 bar), so that the water remains in the liquid state but has a viscosity and surface tension lower than that of water at room temperature, increasing its dielectric constant.
[0094] Preferably, the composition comprises an extract of the whole mushroom.
[0095] Advantageously, the extract of Inonotus obliquas is present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.00001% by weight to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.0001% by weight to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.0002% by weight to 3% by weight, even more preferably from 0.0003% by weight to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0096] Advantageously, the weight ratio between the extract of Inonotus obliquus and the C-glycoside is 1:50 to 1:1, preferably 1:40 to 1:2, more preferably 1:35 to 1:3.
[0097] Advantageously, the weight ratio between the extract of Inonotus obliquus and the amino sugar is 1:10 to 10:1, preferably 1:5 to 5:1, more preferably 1:2 to 2:1. Aqueous phase
[0098] The composition of the present invention may include an aqueous phase.
[0099] Preferably, the aqueous phase comprises water.
[0100] Advantageously, water is present in the composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 50% by weight to 99.99% by weight, preferably from 70% by weight to 99.99% by weight, more preferably from 80% by weight to 99.99% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0101] Optionally, the aqueous phase comprises an organic solvent miscible with water (at room temperature at 25 °C) selected from monoalcohols, glycols and polyols having from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, such as octyldodecanol, glycerin, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, dipropylene glycol, diethylene glycol; and mixtures thereof.
[0102] Advantageously, the aqueous phase is present in the composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 60% by weight to 99.99% by weight, preferably from 70% by weight to 99.99% by weight, more preferably from 80% by weight to 99.99% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Additional cosmetic active ingredients
[0103] The composition of the present invention may include an additional cosmetic active ingredient in addition to the cosmetic active ingredients as defined above.
[0104] A person skilled in the art can adjust the type and quantity of additional cosmetic active ingredients according to the end use of the composition according to the present invention. Additional adjuvants or additives
[0105] The composition of the present invention may also contain conventional cosmetic adjuvants or additives, for example, perfumes, chelating agents, preservatives and bactericides, thickeners, surfactants, pH regulators, and combinations thereof.
[0106] A person skilled in the art can choose the quantity of additional adjuvants or additives so that it does not have a negative impact on the final use of the composition according to the present invention.
[0107] According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the present invention proposes a composition comprising, relative to the total weight of the composition: i. from 0.02% by weight to 5% by weight of hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol; ii. from 0.0003% by weight to 2% by weight of at least one amino sugar chosen including N-block D-glucosamine, N-hexanoyl D-glucosamine, N-acetyl D-glucosamine, N-alloc glucosamine, N-benzoyl D-glucosamine, N-butanoyl D-glucosamine, N-propanoyl D-glucosamine, N-valeryl D-glucosamine, N-octanoyl D-glucosamine, and their combinations; and iii. from 0.0003% by weight to 2% by weight of at least one extract of Inonotus obliquus. pharmaceutical form and process
[0108] The composition of the present invention may be in the form of an emulsion, a cream, a lotion or a hydrogel, and may be used as a toner, a lotion, a light cream, a nourishing cream, a night mask or an eye cream.
[0109] The composition of the present invention can be used for the care of keratinous materials. In particular, the composition of the present invention can deliver an anti-aging effect on the skin.
[0110] According to the second aspect, the present invention proposes a non-therapeutic method for the treatment of keratinous materials, comprising the application of the composition according to the first aspect of the present invention to the keratinous materials.
[0111] Keratinous materials include, in particular, the skin.
[0112] In certain embodiments, the present invention proposes a non-therapeutic method for resisting skin aging, comprising applying the composition according to the first aspect of the present invention to the skin. EXAMPLES
[0113] The following examples are given by way of non-limiting illustrations of the present invention.
[0114] The main raw materials used, their trade names and suppliers are listed in Table 1.
[0115] [Tables 1] INCI Name Trade Name Supplier Hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol (Hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol) Pro-Xylane NOVEAL Acetyl glucosamine (Acetyl glucosamine) HYAFACTOR-NAG ACETYL GLUCOSAMINE BLOOMAGE BIOT TECHNOLOGY Inonotus obliquus extract (Inonotus obliquus extracf) INOLIXIR BC 1007 9 BASF BEAUTY CARE SOLUTION Inventive Example 1 and Comparative Examples #1-4
[0116] Compositions of inventive example (El) 1 and comparative examples (EC) 1-4 were prepared on the basis of the quantities of components given in Table 2. The quantities are given by weight in ppm or percentage of each component relative to the total weight of the composition, MA meaning active material.
[0117] [Tables2] Components EC.l EC.2 EC.3 EC.4 ELI Hydroxypropyl Tetrahydropyrant riol (ppm) 274 (MA) 0 0 274 (MA) 274 (MA) Acetyl glucosamine (ppm) 0 10 (MA) 0 10 (MA) 10 (MA) Inonotus obliquus extract (ppm) 0 0 9 (MA) 0 9 (MA) Water (%) QS100 QS100 QS100 QS100 QS100
[0118] The composition of inventive example 1 represents a composition according to the present invention.
[0119] The composition of comparative example 1 does not include at least one amino sugar and at least one extract of Inonotus obliquus.
[0120] The composition of Comparative Example 2 does not include at least one C-glycoside and at least one extract of Inonotus obliquas.
[0121] The composition of Comparative Example 3 does not include at least one C-glycoside and at least one amino sugar.
[0122] The composition of comparative example 4 does not include at least one extract of Inonotus obliquas.
[0123] Preparation process:
[0124] The compositions listed above were prepared as follows: addition of hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol (where applicable), acetyl glucosamine (where applicable) and Inonotus obliquasse extract (where applicable) according to the corresponding amounts in Table 2 slowly in water with stirring at room temperature to obtain a homogeneous mixture.
[0125] Evaluation:
[0126] The anti-aging effect of the above-prepared compositions was evaluated by detecting the level of expression of the LGI3 gene.
[0127] The cells used in the assay are primary human keratinocytes isolated from the foreskin (Episkin).
[0128] The cell culture medium used in the test is EpiLife medium with low calcium (60 qM) and an animal-free supplement S7 from Life Technologies.
[0129] In particular, the test was carried out as follows.
[0130] 1-Cell inoculation
[0131] Keratinocytes were cultured in culture medium at 37 °C and 5% CO2.
[0132] 2-Solution preparation
[0133] The working solutions were prepared by dispersing hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol, acetyl glucosamine and Inonotus obliquas extract in the culture medium according to the test groups listed in Table 3.
[0134] [Tables3] Test Groups Final Concentrations Control Fresh medium with 21.9 ppm propylene glycol and 7.2 ppm glycerin EC.1 The concentrations of hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol, acetyl glucosamine, and Inonotus obliquus extract in the culture medium are the same as those in Table 2 EC.2 EC.3 EC.4 ELI
[0135] 3-Administration
[0136] Once 80% confluence was reached, the culture medium was refreshed with working solutions described in Table 3. Fresh medium was added to control the treatment cells. The cells were then incubated with the treatment for 24 hours before being harvested after 3 washes with Dulbecco's phosphate buffer saline (DPBS, Thermo Fisher).
[0137] 4-Cellular tolerance to treatments
[0138] Preliminary experiments were conducted to ensure that the test dosage was not toxic to the cells, which was validated by adding MTT (Sigma-Aldrich) reagent to the cells at a concentration of 1.0 mg / mL in fresh medium to quantify cell viability with colorimetric readings of isopropanol-extracted formazan formed.
[0139] 5-Cellular mRNA extraction
[0140] The harvested cells were treated with the TRIzol reagent (Invitrogen) to extract TRNA according to the manufacturer's protocol. The extracted RNA was subsequently measured by a Bioanalyzer to ensure quality and quantity. The extracted RNA was then purified using RNeasy kits (Qiagen) with quality verified by a Bioanalyzer 2100 (Agilent).
[0141] 6-RNA sequencing for transcriptomic analyses
[0142] The mRNA samples obtained above were then subjected to a standard Illumina stranded mRNA library preparation, followed by sequencing using a Hiseq (Illumina) platform.
[0143] The raw data were then processed with StringTie to match the transcripts with the LGI3 gene, the quantitative transcript count being indicated in FPKM (fragments per kilobase of transcript per million fragments matched), which indicates thousands of base pairs for 1 million fragments matched.
[0144] The FPKM values for different treatments were compared using an analysis of variance (ANOVA). The p-values for comparisons with the control group were used to judge the significance of the difference for each treatment.
[0145] The LGI3 gene expression level and p values compared to the control group have been summarized in Table 4.
[0146] [Tables4] Treatment Group Control EC.1 EC.2 EC.3 EC.4 EI.1 LGI3 gene expression level (FPKM) 0.2055 0.8037 0.3600 0.5153 0.8967 37.359 Value compared to the control / 0.9999 0.9995 0.9997 > 0.9999 0.0021
[0147] It can be seen from Table 4 that the composition of inventive example 1 has a better intensifying effect on the level of expression of the LGI3 gene compared to the compositions of comparative examples 1-4, the combination of at least one C-glycoside, at least one amino sugar and at least one extract of Inonotus obliquas can lead to a synergistic effect on the level of expression of the LGI3 gene, and therefore on the anti-aging effect on keratinous materials, in particular the skin.
Claims
Demands
1. Composition comprising: (i) at least one C-glycoside; (ii) at least one amino sugar; and (iii) at least one extract of Inonotus obliquas.
2. Composition according to claim 1, wherein the C-glycoside is selected from compounds of formula (I): XB. (I) wherein: - R represents a saturated C1-C4 alkyl radical, in particular C1-C4, which may be optionally substituted by at least one radical selected from OH, COOH or COOR'2, R'2 being a saturated C1-C4 alkyl radical, - S represents a monosaccharide or polysaccharide comprising up to 20 sugar units, in particular up to 6 sugar units, in the form of pyranose and / or furanose and of the L and / or D series, knowing that said monosaccharide or polysaccharide may be substituted by a hydroxyl group which is necessarily free and optionally one or more optionally protected amine functional groups, and - X represents a radical selected from the groups -CO-, -CH(OH)-, -CH(NH2)-, -CH(NHCH2CH2CH2OH)-, -CH(NHPh)- and -CH(CH3 )- and in particular a -CO- radical,-CH(OH)- or -CH(NH2)- and more particularly a radical -CH(OH)-, the S-CH2-X bond represents a C-anomeric bond, which can be α or [3], as well as their physiologically acceptable salts, their solvates, such as hydrates and their optical and geometric isomers.
3. Composition according to any one of claims 1 and 2, wherein the C-glycoside is present in an amount from 0.0001% by weight to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.001% by weight to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.01% by weight to 10% by weight, even more preferably from 0.02% by weight to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
4. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the amino sugar is selected from glucosamine, D-glucosamine, GDP-glucosamine, mannosamine, UDP-glucosamine, N-cbz-D-glucosamine, galactosamine, D-glucosamine hydrochloride, glucosamine sulfate, glucosamine phosphate, D-glucosamine-oxyme HCl, 6-deoxy-D-glucosamine, N-methyl-D-glucosamine, N-propyl-D-glucosamine, N-octyl-D-glucosamine, N-butyryl-D-glucosamine, N-boc-D-glucosamine, N-hexanoyl-D-glucosamine, N-acetyl-D-glucosaminic acid, N-acetyl-D-glucosamine, N-acetyl galactosamine, N-alloc glucosamine, N-benzoyl-D-glucosamine, N-butanoyl-D-glucosamine, N-propanoyl-D-glucosamine, pentaacetyl-D-glucosamine, N-valeryl-D-glucosamine, N-octanoyl-D-glucosamine, and their combinations, preferably the composition includes N-acetyl-D-glucosamine.
5. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the amino sugar is present in an amount from 0.00001% by weight to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.0001% by weight to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.0002% by weight to 3% by weight, even more preferably from 0.0003% by weight to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
6. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the extract of Inonotus obliq is an extract of the whole mushroom, of one or more parts of the mushroom, and of combinations thereof, preferably the composition comprises an extract of the whole mushroom.
7. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, wherein the extract of Inonotus obliquas is present in an amount from 0.00001% by weight to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.0001% by weight to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.0002% by weight to 3% by weight, even more preferably from 0.0003% by weight to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
8. Composition according to claim 1, comprising, relative to the total weight of the composition: (i) 0.02% to 5% by weight of hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol; (ii) 0.0003% to 2% by weight of at least one amino sugar selected from N-benzoyl-D-glucosamine, N-hexanoyl-D-glucosamine, N-acetyl-D-glucosamine, N-alloc glucosamine, N-benzoyl-D-glucosamine, N-butanoyl-D-glucosamine, N-propanoyl-D-glucosamine, N-valeryl-D-glucosamine, N-octanoyl-D-glucosamine, and combinations thereof; and (iii) from 0.0003% by weight to 2% by weight of at least one extract of Inonotus obliquus.
9. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8, wherein the weight ratio between the extract of Inonotus obliquus and the C-glycoside is 1:50 to 1:1, preferably 1:40 to 1:2, more preferably 1:35 to 1:
3.
10. Non-therapeutic method for the treatment of keratinous materials, comprising the application of the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9 on keratinous materials.