Water-in-oil emulsion comprising an emulsifying elastomer, an oxyalkylated silicone, and squalane
Incorporating squalane into cosmetic compositions with polyglycerol silicone elastomers and oxyalkylated silicones improves texture and homogeneity, offering a smooth, glossy, and comfortable skin finish.
Patent Information
- Authority / Receiving Office
- FR · FR
- Patent Type
- Applications
- Current Assignee / Owner
- LOREAL SA
- Filing Date
- 2024-11-28
- Publication Date
- 2026-05-29
AI Technical Summary
Existing cosmetic compositions using polyglycerol silicone elastomers and oxyalkylated silicones in water-in-oil emulsions lack optimal texture, ease of application, and homogeneity, resulting in a matte finish that is uncomfortable and prone to leaving fingerprints.
Incorporating squalane, a saturated isoprenoid hydrocarbon, into the composition to enhance sensory properties, providing a smooth, easy-to-apply, and homogeneous luminous finish.
The composition forms a comfortable, luminous, and glossy film on the skin with improved ease of application and homogeneity, avoiding fingerprints and brush marks, while maintaining a pleasant feel.
Abstract
Description
Title of the invention: Water-in-oil emulsion comprising an emulsifying elastomer, an oxyalkylated silicone, and squalane. Technical field
[0001] The present invention relates to a water-in-oil emulsion composition comprising a polyglycerol silicone elastomer, an α-co-substituted oxyalkylated silicone, and squalane. It also relates to the use of the composition for the care or makeup of keratinous materials. Previous technique
[0002] EP1579845 is known to be a list of cosmetic compositions comprising a polyglycerol emulsifying silicone elastomer. The compositions may also comprise a silicone surfactant such as dimethicone copolyol or cetyl dimethicone copolyol.
[0003] The use of oxyalkylated silicone combined with a polyglycerol silicone elastomer is advantageous for the production of water-in-oil emulsions
[0004] We know of the Absolu Fluide ® foundation marketed by Lancôme comprising the combination a) DIMETHICONE / POLYGLYCERIN-3 CROSSPOLYMER + b) BIS-PEG / PPG-14 / 14 DIMETHICONE (Mintel Sublime Rejuvenating Essence Foundation Fact Sheet).
[0005] However, it is necessary to optimize the cosmetic properties in order to obtain a pleasant texture, easy to apply and a film deposited after application on the skin with a pleasant feel and good homogeneity. Description of the invention
[0006] The inventors discovered that the cosmetic properties could be optimized by using squalane, which is a saturated isoprenoid hydrocarbon, in the composition.
[0007] The composition forms a protective film on the skin and has a soft feel.
[0008] The composition spreads easily on the skin without being too slippery and with a slight resistance, providing easy application to the face. After application, the composition forms a homogeneous deposit, without leaving any fingerprints or brush marks. The film deposited on the skin has a luminous, glossy appearance, as opposed to a matte effect: the film exhibits good radiance properties. The film is also comfortable on the skin.
[0009] Thus, the composition has good sensory properties and good deposition performance, particularly for makeup. Summary of the invention
[0010] Thus, the present invention relates to a composition in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion comprising:
[0011] - a) from 0.5% to 2.5% by weight of a polyglycerol silicone elastomer - b) 1.5% to 2.5% by weight of an α-substituted oxyalkylated silicone
[0012] - c) from 0.5% to 5% by weight of saturated isoprenoid hydrocarbon,
[0013] the percentages being expressed as a percentage of the weight of active ingredient relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0014] The invention also relates to a cosmetic treatment method, in particular non-therapeutic, for keratinous materials, especially skin, comprising the application to the keratinous materials of a composition such as described above.
[0015] Said cosmetic treatment process is in particular a process for the care or makeup of keratinous materials. Detailed description
[0016] The oil-in-water emulsion comprises an aqueous phase dispersed in a continuous oily phase.
[0017] A composition according to the invention is generally suitable for topical application to the skin and therefore generally comprises a
[0018] physiologically acceptable environment, i.e. compatible with the skin.
[0019] Preferably, this is a cosmetically acceptable medium, that is to say, one which has a pleasant colour, odor and feel and does not generate unacceptable discomforts, that is to say, tingling, pulling, redness, which may deter the user from applying this composition.
[0020] A composition according to the invention can be prepared according to techniques well known to those skilled in the art.
[0021] The composition according to the invention comprises a polyglycerol silicone elastomer. It is an emulsifying elastomer.
[0022] Polyglycerol silicone elastomer is a crosslinked organopolysiloxane elastomer that can be obtained by addition crosslinking reaction of diorganopolysiloxane containing at least one hydrogen bonded to silicon and polyglycerol compounds having ethylenic unsaturation groups, in particular in the presence of platinum catalyst.
[0023] Preferably, the crosslinked organopolysiloxane elastomer is obtained by an addition-crosslinking reaction (A) of diorganopolysiloxane containing at least two hydrogens, each bonded to a silicon atom, and (B) of glycerol compounds having at least two groups with ethylenic unsaturation, particularly in the presence (C) of platinum catalyst.
[0024] In particular, organopolysiloxane can be obtained by reaction of dimethylvinylsiloxy-terminated polyglycerol compound and trimethylsiloxy-terminated methyllihydrogenopolysiloxane, in the presence of platinum catalyst.
[0025] Compound (A) is the basic reagent for the formation of organopolysiloxane elastomer and crosslinking is carried out by addition reaction of compound (A) with compound (B) in the presence of catalyst (C).
[0026] Compound (A) is in particular an organopolysiloxane having at least 2 hydrogen atoms bonded to distinct silicon atoms in each molecule.
[0027] Compound (A) may have any molecular structure, including a linear chain structure or a branched chain structure or a cyclic structure.
[0028] The compound (A) may have a viscosity at 25 °C ranging from 1 to 50,000 centistokes, in particular to be well miscible with the compound (B).
[0029] The organic groups bonded to the silicon atoms of compound (A) may be alkyl groups having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, octyl, decyl, dodecyl (or lauryl), myristyl, cetyl, stearyl; substituted alkyl groups such as 2-phenylethyl, 2-phenylpropyl, 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl; aryl groups such as phenyl, tolyl, xylyl; substituted aryl groups such as phenylethyl; and substituted monovalent hydrocarbon groups such as an epoxy group, a carboxylate ester group, or a mercapto group. Preferably, said organic group is selected from among the methyl, phenyl, and lauryl groups.
[0030] Compound (A) can thus be chosen from trimethylsiloxy-terminated methylhydrogenopolysiloxanes, trimethylsiloxane-methylhydrogenosiloxane-laurylmethylsiloxane copolymers, dimethylsiloxane-methylhydrogenosiloxane cyclic copolymers, and trimethylsiloxane-methylhydrogenosiloxane-laurylmethylsiloxane copolymers.
[0031] Compound (B) may be a polyglycerol compound corresponding to the following formula (B1): CmH2m rO-[Gly]n-CmH2m4 (B') in which m is an integer from 2 to 6, n is an integer from 2 to 200, preferably from 2 to 100, preferably from 2 to 50, preferably n from 2 to 20, preferably from 2 to 10, and preferably from 2 to 5, and in particular equal to 3; Gly denotes: -CH2-CH(OH)-CH2-O- or -CH2-CH(CH2OH)-O-
[0032] Advantageously, the sum of the number of ethylenic groups per molecule of compound (B) and the number of hydrogen atoms bonded to silicon atoms per molecule of compound (A) is at least 4.
[0033] It is advantageous that compound (A) be added in such an amount that the molecular ratio between the total amount of hydrogen atoms bonded to silicon atoms in compound (A) and the total amount of all ethylenic unsaturating groups in compound (B) is in the range of 1 / 1 to 20 / 1.
[0034] Compound (C) is the catalyst for the crosslinking reaction, and is in particular chloroplatinic acid, chloroplatinic acid-olefin complexes, chloroplatinic acid-alkenylsiloxane complexes, chloroplatinic acid-diketone complexes, black platinum, and platinum on support.
[0035] The catalyst (C) is preferably added from 0.1 to 1000 parts by weight, better from 1 to 100 parts by weight, as clean platinum metal for 1000 parts by weight of the total amount of compounds (A) and (B).
[0036] Polyglycerol silicone elastomer is generally mixed with at least one hydrocarbon oil and / or a silicone oil to form a gel. In these gels, the polyglycerol elastomer is often in the form of non-spherical particles.
[0037] Such elastomers are described in particular in patent application WO2004 / 024798.
[0038] As polyglycerol silicone elastomers, those sold under the designations "KSG-710", "KSG-810", "KSG-820", "KSG-830", "KSG-840" by the company Shin Etsu.
[0039] The polyglycerol silicone elastomer may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.5% to 2.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and preferably ranging from 0.8% to 2% by weight, and preferably ranging from 1% to 1.5% by weight.
[0040] The composition according to the invention comprises an α-co-substituted oxyalkylated silicone which can be selected from the compounds of the following formula (I):
[0041] [Chem.l] (I)
[0042] in which:
[0043] - the R2 radicals represent, independently of each other, an alkyl radical in C1-C3 or a phenyl radical,
[0044] - m is between 5 and 300,
[0045] - R is a group of formula -(CH2)p0-(C2H40)x(C3H60)yRl in which:
[0046] - RI represents H, -CH3 or -CH2CH3,
[0047] - p is an integer ranging from 1 to 5,
[0048] - x varies from 1 to 100,
[0049] - y varies from 0 to 50, the (C2H40) and (C3H60) units of R being able to be distributed from either randomly or in blocks.
[0050] Preferably, the α-co-substituted oxyalkylated silicone used according to the present invention corresponds to the aforementioned general formula (I) for which:
[0051] - all R2 radicals are methyl radicals;
[0052] - p goes from 2 to 4;
[0053] - x ranges from 3 to 100; and
[0054] - m goes from 50 to 200.
[0055] Preferably, the average molecular weight of the R radicals ranges from 800 to 2600.
[0056] Preferably, the weight ratio of C2H40 (x) units to C3H60 (y) units ranges from 100:10 to 20:80. Advantageously, this ratio is about 44 / 58. Preferably still, RI is a methyl group.
[0057] More preferably, the emulsion according to the invention comprises the α-co oxyalkylated silicone of the following formula (II):
[0058] [Chem.2] (II)
[0059] in which:
[0060] - m = 100,
[0061] - R = (CH2)3-0-(C2H40)x-(C3H60)y-CH3,
[0062] where x goes from 3 to 100, y goes from 1 to 50, the weight ratio of the number of C2H40 to the number of C3H60 being about 44 / 58, and the average molecular weight of R going from 800 to 1000.
[0063] Among the commercial products that can contain all or part of the α-substituted oxyalkylened silicones usable according to the invention, we can mention in particular those sold under the names "Abil EM 97" and "Abil EM 97 S" by the company Evonik Goldschmidt (INCI name: BIS-PEG / PPG-14 / 14 DIMETHICONE), or "KF 6009", "X224350", "X22-4349" or "KF 6008" by the company Shin-Etsu.
[0064] The α-co-substituted oxyalkylated silicone may be present in the composition in a content ranging from 1.4% to 3% by weight of active material, preferably ranging from 1.5% to 2.5% by weight and even more preferably ranging from 1.5% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0065] The composition according to the invention comprises an oxyalkylated silicone not substituted in a-co which can be selected from the compounds of formula (III) following:
[0066] [Chem.3] CH3 CH3. CH3 CH3 J.< L, 3$ to I GH3 r ch3 (III)
[0067] in which:
[0068] R3 represents a radical -(CH2)j-(OCH2CH2)k-(OCH2CH2CH2)l-OR4
[0069] R4 being a hydrogen, a C1-C3 alkyl radical
[0070] a is an integer ranging from 0 to 200;
[0071] b is an integer from 1 to 50
[0072] j is an integer from 1 to 6;
[0073] k is an integer from 1 to 30:
[0074] 1 is an integer from 0 to 5.
[0075] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, in the compound of formula (III), j is an integer from 2 to 6, k is an integer from 4 to 30,1 = 0, R4 is a hydrogen.
[0076] As an example of compounds of formula (III), the following compounds of formula (IV) may be cited:
[0077] [Chem.4] (IV)
[0078] in which a is an integer from 20 to 105, b is an integer from 2 to 10 and k is an integer from 5 to 15.
[0079] One can use as unsubstituted oxyalkylated silicone those sold under the names DC 5329, DC 7439-146, DC 2-5695 by the Dow Corning company; KF-6013, KF-6015, KF 6016, KF 6017 (INCI name: PEG-10 DIMETHICONE) by the Shin-Etsu company.
[0080] The compounds DC 5329, DC 7439-146, DC-2-5695 are compounds of formula (IV) where respectively a is 22, b is 2 and k is 12; a is 103, b is 10 and k is 12; a is 27, b is 3 and k is 12.
[0081] The unsubstituted α-co oxyalkylated silicone may be present in the composition in a content ranging from 1% to 2.6% by weight, preferably ranging from 1.5% to 2.5% by weight, and preferably ranging from 1.8% to 2.4% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition
[0082] The saturated isoprenoid hydrocarbon can be chosen from squalane, hydrogenated squalene, phytane, hydrogenated phytol, and mixtures thereof, and preferably is squalane
[0083] The saturated isoprenoid hydrocarbon may be present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.5% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the invention, preferably ranging from 1% to 3% by weight, and preferably ranging from 1.5% to 2.5% by weight.
[0084] The composition may include one or more volatile oils as described below.
[0085] By "volatile oil" is meant an oil capable of evaporating upon contact with the skin in less than one hour, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. The volatile oil is a volatile cosmetic oil, liquid at room temperature, having in particular a non-zero vapor pressure at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, specifically a vapor pressure ranging from 0.13 Pa to 40,000 Pa (10⁻³ to 300 mm Hg) and preferably ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13,000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mm Hg), and preferably ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1,300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mm Hg). The vapor pressure can be measured, for example, by the static method or by effusion using isothermal thermogravimetry, as a function of the vapor pressure (OECD Standard 104). In addition, volatile oil generally has a boiling point, measured at atmospheric pressure, ranging from 150°C to 260°C and preferably ranging from 170°C to 250°C.
[0086] The composition may include a volatile silicone oil. Examples of volatile silicone oils include linear or cyclic silicone oils having from 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones optionally containing alkyl or alkoxy groups having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms. Examples include decamethyl cyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethyl cyclohexasiloxane, and dodecamethyl pentasiloxane. Among volatile silicone oils, dodecamethyl pentasiloxane is preferred.
[0087] silicone oils comprising, in particular, 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicone oils optionally comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups having 1 to 10 carbon atoms. Examples of volatile silicone oils usable in the invention include, in particular, dimethicones with viscosities ranging from 2 to 6 is, cyclopentadimethylsiloxane, dodecamethylpentasiloxane, cyclohexadimethylsiloxane, octamethyl cyclotetrasiloxane, decamethyl cyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethyl cyclohexasiloxane, heptamethyl hexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyl trisiloxane, hexamethyl disiloxane, octamethyl trisiloxane, decamethyl tetrasiloxane, dodecamethyl pentasiloxane, and mixtures thereof. Examples include dodecamethylpentasiloxane such as the reference DM-FLUID-2cs marketed by SHIN-ETSU or cyclohexadhnethylsiloxane such as the reference XIAMETER PMX-0246 CYCLOHEXASILOXANE marketed by DOW CHEMICAL, or even dimethicone such as the reference XIAMETER PMX-200 SILICONE FLUID 2 CST marketed by DOW CHEMICAL.
[0088] Volatile silicone oil may be present in a content ranging from 5 to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and preferably ranging from 8 to 18% by weight.
[0089] The composition may include a volatile hydrocarbon oil. Examples of volatile hydrocarbon oils include
[0090] - hydrocarbon oils having 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and in particular: a) C8-Ci6 branched alkanes such as isoalkanes (also called isoparaffins) such as C8-C9 Isoparaffin, Ci3-Ci6 Isoparaffin, isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane, and for example oils sold under the trade names Isopars or Permetyls, alone or in mixtures, in particular isododecane (also called 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane), for example marketed by INEOS, more particularly isododecane; b) linear C6-Ci6 alkanes, alone or in mixtures, for example such as hexane, decane, undecane, tridecane, isoparaffins such as, or n-dodecane (Ci2) and n-tetradecane (Ci4) sold by Sasol respectively under the references PARAFOL 12-97 and PARAFOL 14-97, the undecane-tridecane mixture, the mixtures of n-undecane (Cl 1) and n-tridecane (Cn) obtained in examples 1 and 2 of application WO 2008 / 155059 of the Cognis Company, and their mixtures as well as the mixtures of n-undecane (Cn) and n-tridecane (Ci3) Cetiol Ultimate® of the BASF Company; c) cyclic, non-aromatic, volatile C5-C12 alkanes; - short chain esters having 3 to 8 carbon atoms in total, such as methyl acetate, ethyl acetate, propyl acetate, n-butyl acetate or isobutyl acetate for example sold by SOLVAY, DOW or OXEA; - volatile carbonate hydrocarbon oils of structure R' 1-OC(O)-O-R'2 in which R' 1 and R'2, identical or different, independently designate a linear, branched or cyclic C4-C8 alkyl group, in particular a C4-C 8 linear. It may be preferable for RI and R2 to be identical. In particular, R'1 and R'2 denote a linear butyl alkyl radical, a pentyl group. Advantageously, the ether oil is chosen from dibutyl carbonate or dipentyl carbonate; - volatile ether oils of formula R1-0-R2 in which RI and R2, whether identical or different, independently designate a linear, branched, or cyclic C4-C8 alkyl group, in particular a linear or branched C4-C8 alkyl group. Preferably, RI and R2 should be identical. Examples of linear alkyl groups include butyl and pentyl groups. Examples of branched alkyl groups include 1-methylpropyl, 2-methylpropyl, β-butyl, and 1,1-dimethylpropyl.
[0091] Among volatile hydrocarbon oils, isododecane is preferred.
[0092] The volatile hydrocarbon oil may be present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.5 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and preferably ranging from 1 to 5% by weight.
[0093] Advantageously, the composition may comprise diisostearyl malate, in particular in a content ranging from 1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 2% to 8% by weight, and preferably ranging from 3% to 7%.
[0094] Advantageously, the saturated isoprenoid hydrocarbon, and in particular squalane, and diisostearyl malate may be present in the composition in a weight ratio of diisostearyl malate / saturated isoprenoid hydrocarbon (in particular squalane) ranging from 2 to 3, and preferably ranging from 2.3 to 2.7.
[0095] The composition may include a water-soluble polyol, in particular selected from polyols having 3 to 8 carbon atoms, such as glycerin, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, diglycerin, and dipropylene glycol. The water-soluble polyol may be present in the composition at a concentration ranging from 0.1 to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 2 to 15% by weight, and preferably ranging from 5 to 15% by weight.
[0096] The composition may include an alcohol having 2 to 4 carbon atoms, such as ethanol, isopropanol, butanol, and preferably ethanol. Said alcohol may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.1 to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 2 to 15% by weight, and preferably ranging from 5 to 15% by weight.
[0097] The composition may include water in a content ranging from 20 to 40% by weight, preferably ranging from 25 to 35% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0098] The composition may include an additive selected from perfumes, preservatives, cosmetic actives, UV filters, moisturizing agents, coloring materials such as pigments, mother-of-pearl, gelling agents, film-forming polymers, fillers, emollients, surfactants, and mixtures thereof.
[0099] It is part of the routine operations of a person skilled in the art to adjust the nature and quantity of additives present in compositions according to the invention, so that the cosmetic properties and the desired stability properties of the latter are not affected.
[0100] The cosmetic compositions according to the invention may be skincare products, face or body makeup. In particular, they may be in the form of foundation.
[0101] The invention is illustrated in a non-limiting way by the examples described below.
[0102] Percentages are expressed as a percentage by weight. Example: Comparative
[0103] Contents are expressed as a percentage by weight
[0104] A foundation composition according to the invention has been prepared (Composition 1) and a comparative composition (composition 1') as follows. Composition 1' is similar to composition 1 but without squalane (and compensated by 2% added dimethicone 2').
[0105] [Tables 1] Ingredients Composition 1 Composition 1' Polyglycerol silicone elastomer blended with dimethicone (24.1 / 75.9) (KSG-710 from Shin Etsu) 5.32 5.32 Bis-PEG / PPG-14 / 14 Dimethicone / Dimethicone (85 / 15) (Abil EM 97 S from Evonik) 2 2 Squalane 2 - Diisostearyl malate 5 5 Dimethicone (XIAMETER PMX-200 SILICONE FLUID 2 CST from Dow Chemical) 13 15 Isododecane 3.5 3.5 Glycerin 10 10 Ethanol 11 11 Water q.s. 100 q.s. 100 Pigments 13.3 13.3 Talc 0.43 0.43 Synthetic fluorphlogopite (Synafil S 1050 from Eckart) 1.33 1.33
[0106] The cosmetic properties of these foundations were evaluated by a panel of 18 people accustomed to using liquid foundations.
[0107] The foundation according to the invention (composition 1) has a less slippery texture. After application to the skin, it forms a homogeneous deposit without leaving fingerprints or brush marks. The deposit leaves a soft-to-the-touch protective residual film on the skin. Composition 1 is preferred.
[0108] Comparative Example 2:
[0109] A composition similar to that of Example 1 was prepared, but replacing the polyglycerol silicone elastomer with a polyethoxyl silicone elastomer (KSG 210 from Shin Etsu) (Composition A) in the same weight quantities.
[0110] [Tableaux2] Ingredients Composition 1 Composition A Polyglycerol silicone elastomer blended with dimethicone (24.1 / 7 5.9) (KSG-710 from Shin Etsu) 5.33 (1.33 MA) - Polyethoxylated silicone elastomer (KSG 210 from Shin Etsu) - 5.33 (1.33 MA) Bis-PEG / PPG-14 / 14 Dimethicone / Dimethicone (85 / 15) (Abil EM 97 S from Evonik) 2 2 Squalane 2 2 Diisostearyl malate 5 5 Dimethicone (XIAMETER PMX-200 SILICONE FLUID 2 CST from Dow Chemical) 13 13 Isododecane 3.5 3.5 Glycerin 10 10 Ethanol 11 11 Water q.s. 100 q.s. 100 Pigments 13.3 13.3 Talc 0.43 0.43 Synthetic fluorphlogopite (Synafil S 1050 from Eckart) 1.33 1.33
[0111] The cosmetic properties of these foundations were then evaluated with 3 people who were foundation experts.
[0112] Composition A (containing ethoxylated silicone elastomer) has a more fluid texture and is more slippery when applied to the skin. After spreading, the composition is stickier, less easy to spread, and forms a thinner film compared to composition 1.
[0113] Composition 1 has more advantageous cosmetic properties than composition A.
Claims
Demands
1. A water-in-oil emulsion composition comprising: - a) 0.5% to 2.5% by weight of a polyglycerol silicone elastomer - b) 1.5% to 2.5% by weight of an α-substituted oxyalkylated silicone corresponding to the following formula (I): R2 R2 ® r—si—a -4--5(-0 4L si—rili J ssns -jws ? fC R" R wherein: - the R2 radicals represent, independently of each other, a C1-C3 alkyl radical or a phenyl radical, - m is between 5 and 300, - R is a group of formula -(CH2)p0-(C2H4O)x(C3H6O)yRl wherein: - RI represents H, -CH3 or -CH2CH3, - p is an integer from 1 to 5, - x varies from 1 to 100, - y varies from 0 to 50, the (C2H40) and (C3H60) units of R can be distributed randomly or in blocks;- c) from 0.5% to 5% by weight of saturated isoprenoid hydrocarbon, the percentages being expressed as weight of active material relative to the total weight of the composition.
2. Composition according to the preceding claim characterized in that the saturated isoprenoid hydrocarbon is selected from squalane, hydrogenated squalene, phytane, hydrogenated phytol, and mixtures thereof, and preferably is squalane.
3. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the polyglycerol silicone elastomer a) is obtained by addition crosslinking reaction of diorganosiloxane containing at least one hydrogen bonded to silicon and polyglycerol compounds having ethylenic unsaturation groups, in particular in the presence of platinum catalyst.
4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the polyglycerol silicone elastomer a) is obtained by diorganopolysiloxane addition-crosslinking reaction containing at least two hydrogens each bonded to a silicon, and glycerol compounds having at least two ethylenic unsaturated groups, particularly in the presence of a platinum catalyst.
5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the polyglycerol silicone elastomer is present in a content ranging from 0.8% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and preferably ranging from 1% to 1.5% by weight.
6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that for formula (I), - all R2 radicals are methyl radicals; - p ranges from 2 to 4; - x ranges from 3 to 100; and - m ranges from 50 to 200.
7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the α-co-substituted oxyalkylated silicone corresponds to the following formula (II): CH. CH. CH. (11) 1. ' r 1 “ii M R-SCO-I" 5i -û -l-^Si-R CH. CH.in which: - m = 100, - R = (CH2)3-0-(C2H40)x-(C3H60)y-CH3, where x ranges from 3 to 100, y ranges from 1 to 50, the weight ratio of the number of C2H40 to the number of C3H60 being approximately 44 / 58, and the average molecular weight of R ranging from 800 to 1000.
8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the α-co-substituted oxyalkylated silicone is present in a content ranging from 1.5% to 2.5% by weight of active material, preferably from 1.5% to 2% by weight.
9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises an α-co-substituted oxyalkylated silicone corresponding to the following formula (III): CHj ÇHj CH3 ÇH3 (HO HgC— Si »0 —[Si J.. J.,. L13 » 1 pC CH,. in which: R3 represents a radical -(CH2)j-(OCH2CH2)k-(OCH2CH2CH2)l- OR4 R4 being a hydrogen, a C1-C3 alkyl radical a is an integer from 0 to 200; b is an integer from 1 to 50 j is an integer from 1 to 6; k is an integer from 1 to 30; 1 is an integer from 0 to 5. ; preferably j is an integer from 2 to 6, k is an integer from 4 to 30, 1 = 0, R4 is a hydrogen.
10. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the oxyalkylened silicone not substituted at a - co corresponds to the following formula (IV): 1 (IV) CH, CH3 ) CM, 1 r 1 i । 1 r H3c --0 —-.....Si.....—G CH, S \ \ '2 ? in which a is an integer from 20 to 105, b is an integer from 2 to 10 and k is an integer from 5 to 15.
11. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the unsubstituted α-co oxyalkylated silicone is present in a content ranging from 1% to 2.6% by weight, preferably from 1.5% to 2.5% by weight, and preferably from 1.8% to 2.4% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition
12. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the saturated isoprenoid hydrocarbon is present in a content ranging from 0.5% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the invention, preferably ranging from 1% to 3% by weight, and preferably ranging from 1.5% to 2.5% by weight.
13. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises diisostearyl malate.
14.
15.
16.
17.
18. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that diisostearyl malate and saturated isoprenoid hydrocarbon are present in a diisostearyl malate / saturated isoprenoid hydrocarbon weight ratio of 2 to 3, and preferably of 2.3 to 2.
7. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises a volatile oil selected from silicone volatile oils and hydrocarbon volatile oils. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises a water-soluble polyol. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises an alcohol having from 2 to 4 carbon atoms. A cosmetic treatment process, in particular for skincare or makeup purposes, of keratinous materials, in particular of the skin, comprising the application to the keratinous materials of a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 17.