Hair coloring process employing an alkaline composition and a coloring composition comprising a direct dye.

An alkaline composition and direct dyes are used to color keratin fibers without oxidation dyes, achieving intense, natural shades with good tenacity and sensory performance.

FR3169082A1Pending Publication Date: 2026-06-05LOREAL SA

Patent Information

Authority / Receiving Office
FR · FR
Patent Type
Applications
Current Assignee / Owner
LOREAL SA
Filing Date
2024-12-03
Publication Date
2026-06-05

AI Technical Summary

Technical Problem

Existing hair coloring methods using oxidation dyes result in temporary or semi-permanent colors with poor resistance to washing, and there is a need for a method that provides natural shades with good color intensity, tenacity, and sensory performance without using oxidative dyes.

Method used

A method involving an alkaline composition free of hydrogen peroxide and a coloring composition containing direct dyes is applied to keratin fibers, using a multi-compartment device to achieve intense, natural shades with good coverage and resistance to shampooing.

Benefits of technology

The method provides harmonious, natural hair coloring with good coverage and resistance to shampooing, maintaining sensory performance and integrity of the fibers.

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Abstract

A hair coloring process employing an alkaline composition and a coloring composition comprising a direct dye. The invention relates to a process for coloring keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers such as hair, in which the following are applied to the keratin fibers: i) an alkaline composition comprising one or more alkaline agent(s), the alkaline composition being free of hydrogen peroxide; and ii) a coloring composition comprising one or more direct dye(s).
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Description

Title of the invention: Hair coloring process employing an alkaline composition and a coloring composition comprising a direct dye.

[0001] The present invention relates to a method for coloring human keratin fibers, in particular hair, using an alkaline composition and a coloring composition comprising a direct dye and a multi-compartment device containing the compositions.

[0002] Two main modes of coloring of human keratin fibers, and in particular of hair, are known.

[0003] One of these two methods is oxidation or permanent coloring. This coloring method uses one or more oxidation dye precursors, usually one or more oxidation bases possibly associated with one or more couplers.

[0004] In general, oxidation bases are chosen from among ortho- or para-phenylenediamines, ortho- or para-aminophenols, and heterocyclic compounds. These oxidation bases are colorless or weakly colored compounds which, in association with oxidizing products, allow access to colored species.

[0005] Often, the nuances obtained with these oxidation bases are varied by associating them with one or more couplers, the latter being chosen in particular from among the aromatic meta-diamines, the meta-aminophenols, the meta-diphenols and certain heterocyclic compounds, such as indolic compounds.

[0006] The variety of molecules involved in the oxidation bases and couplers allows for a rich palette of colors. This type of coloring also allows for the production of permanent colors.

[0007] The second coloring method, called direct or semi-permanent coloring, involves the application of direct dyes, which are molecules with an affinity for fibers and which remain colored even in the absence of an oxidizing agent added to the compositions containing them. Given the nature of the molecules used, these remain mostly on the surface of the fiber and penetrate relatively little into the fiber, compared to the small precursor molecules of oxidation dyes.

[0008] The direct dyes generally used are chosen from among benzene, anthraquinone, nitropyridine, azo, methicillin, azomethine, xanthenic, acridinic, azinic, or triarylmethanic direct dyes. The chemical species used may be nonionic or anionic (dyes). acidic) or cationic (basic dyes). Direct dyes can also be natural dyes.

[0009] Compositions containing one or more direct dyes are applied to the keratin fibers for a time necessary to obtain the desired color, then rinsed.

[0010] However, the resulting colours are particularly chromatic but temporary or semi-permanent colours because their desorption from the surface and / or the core of the fibre is responsible for their lack of dyeing power and their poor resistance to washing.

[0011] There is a need to obtain hair colouring without oxidation dyes such as bases and couplers, in natural shades, with a harmonious and natural colouring result.

[0012] There is also a need to obtain a hair colour that is capable of leading to a good rise, intensity and chromaticity of the colour, while having low selectivity and good tenacity, in particular good persistence to shampoos, which is capable of leading to these good dyeing performances even after a period of storage, while having good qualities of use and maintaining good sensory performance in particular in terms of shine, softness, suppleness, smoothness, detangling of keratin fibers such as hair.

[0013] At least one of these objectives and others are achieved by the present invention, which therefore relates to a method for coloring keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers such as hair, in which the following is applied to said keratin fibers: (i) an alkaline composition comprising one or more alkaline agent(s), the alkaline composition being free of hydrogen peroxide; and ii) a coloring composition comprising one or more direct dye(s).

[0014] The invention also relates to a device with at least two compartments for coloring keratin fibers, comprising at least a first compartment containing a coloring composition comprising one or more direct dye(s), and at least a second compartment containing an alkaline composition comprising one or more alkaline agent(s) and free of hydrogen peroxide.

[0015] The invention makes it possible to obtain intense coloring of keratin fibers in natural shades without using oxidative dyes such as bases and couplers, which allows for good coverage of depigmented keratin fibers, good tenacity, in particular good resistance to shampooing, with a harmonious, natural coloring result, i.e., without a helmet effect, while respecting the integrity of the keratin fibers.

[0016] Other objects, features, aspects and advantages of the invention will become even clearer upon reading the description and examples that follow and upon examination of the accompanying drawing, on which:

[0017] In what follows, and unless otherwise indicated, the bounds of a range of values ​​are included in that range, in particular in the expressions "between" and "ranging from ... to ...".

[0018] Furthermore, the expression "at least one" used in this description is equivalent to the expression "one or more".

[0019] As previously stated, the coloring process employs an alkaline composition and a coloring composition which are respectively applied to the keratin fibers. Alkaline composition

[0020] The alkaline composition applied to the keratin fibers is free of hydrogen peroxide.

[0021] Preferably, the alkaline composition is free of peroxygenated salt.

[0022] Preferably, the alkaline composition is free from chemical oxidizing agents.

[0023] By "free of compound", it is understood that the alkaline composition comprises less than 1% by weight, preferably less than 0.5% by weight of that compound relative to the total weight of the alkaline composition.

[0024] Preferably, the alkaline composition does not include (0%) hydrogen peroxide.

[0025] Preferably, the alkaline composition does not include (0%) peroxygenated salt.

[0026] Preferably, the alkaline composition does not include (0%) any chemical oxidizing agent.

[0027] The alkaline composition implemented in the process according to the invention comprises one or more alkaline agents.

[0028] For the purposes of the present invention, the terms "alkaline agent" and "alkalinizing agents" are used interchangeably.

[0029] The alkali agent(s) are preferably chosen from ammonium hydroxide and organic alkali agents.

[0030] The organic alkali agent(s) are preferably chosen from alkanolamines, organic amines other than alkanolamines, oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated ethylenediamines, 1,3-diaminopropane, spermine, spermidine and mixtures thereof.

[0031] Preferably, the organic alkali agent(s) are chosen from alkanolamines, organic amines other than alkanolamines, oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated ethylenediamines, 1,3-diaminopropane, spermine, spermidine and mixtures thereof.

[0032] By alkanolamine is meant an organic amine comprising a primary, secondary or tertiary amine function, and one or more alkyl groups, linear or branched, in CrC8 bearing one or more hydroxyl radicals.

[0033] Organic amines selected from among alkanolamines such as mono-, di- or tri-alkanolamines, comprising one to three hydroxyalkyl radicals, identical or not, in C1-C4, are particularly suitable for carrying out the invention.

[0034] In particular, the alkanolamine(s) are chosen from monoethanolamine (MEA), diethanolamine, triethanolamine, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine, N,N-dimethylethanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-l-propanol, triisopropanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-l,3-propanediol, 3-amino-l,2-propanediol, 3-dimethylamino-l,2-propanediol, tris-hydroxymethylamino-methane and mixtures thereof.

[0035] The organic amine can also be chosen from among heterocyclic organic amines. Examples include pyridine, piperidine, imidazole, triazole, tetrazole, and benzimidazole. The organic amine can also be chosen from amino acid dipeptides. Examples of amino acid dipeptides usable in the present invention include carnosine, anserine, and balenine. The organic amine can also be chosen from compounds containing a guanidine functional group. Examples of amines of this type that can be used in the present invention include creatine, creatinine, 1,1-dimethylguanidine, 1,1-diethylguanidine, glycocyamine, metformin, agmatine, n-amidinoalanine, 3-guanidinopropionic acid, 4-guanidinobutyric acid and 2-([amino(imino)methyl]amino)ethane-1-sulfonic acid.

[0036] The useful alkali agent(s) according to the invention is / are preferably chosen from alkanolamines such as monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine; preferably monoethanolamine.

[0037] The total content of the alkali agent(s) varies preferably from 0.05 to 30% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 20% by weight, better from 0.5 to 15% by weight, even better from 0.75 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the alkali composition.

[0038] Preferably, the total alkanolamine content, preferably monoethanolamine, varies from 0.05 to 30% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 20% by weight, better from 0.5 to 15% by weight, even better from 0.75 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the alkaline composition.

[0039] The alkaline composition is preferably an aqueous composition. In particular, it comprises more than 10% by weight of water, preferably more than 30% by weight of water, and even more advantageously more than 50% by weight of water. Preferably, the alkaline composition comprises water in a content ranging from 10% to 99% by weight. preferably 30% to 98% by weight, better 50% to 95% by weight relative to the total weight of the alkaline composition.

[0040] The alkaline composition implemented in the process according to the invention may optionally include one or more organic solvent(s).

[0041] Examples of organic solvents include linear or branched C2-C4 alkanols such as ethanol and isopropanol; polyols and polyol ethers such as glycerol, 2-butoxyethanol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, propane-1,3-diol, propylene glycol monomethyl ether, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether and monomethyl ether, as well as aromatic alcohols or ethers such as benzyl alcohol or phenoxyethanol, and mixtures thereof.

[0042] When present, the organic solvent(s) are preferably present in the alkaline composition in a total content ranging from 0.01 to 30% by weight, preferably ranging from 0.05 to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the alkaline composition.

[0043] Preferably, the pH of the alkaline composition used in the process of the invention ranges from 7 to 13, preferably from 8 to 12.5, better from 9 to 12, even better from 10 to 12.

[0044] The alkaline composition according to the invention may optionally include one or more additives, among which we may mention fats, anionic, non-ionic, amphoteric, cationic surfactants or mixtures thereof, anionic, non-ionic, amphoteric, cationic polymers or mixtures thereof, mineral thickening agents, anti-dandruff agents, anti-seborrheic agents, anti-hair loss and / or hair regrowth agents, vitamins and pro-vitamins including panthenol, sunscreens, mineral or organic pigments, plasticizers, solubilizing agents, opacifying or pearlescent agents, antioxidants, sequestering agents, perfumes, preservatives.

[0045] Of course, a person skilled in the art will take care to choose this or these possible complementary compounds in such a way that the advantageous properties intrinsically attached to the alkaline composition are not, or substantially not, altered by the addition(s) envisaged.

[0046] The above additives can generally be present in quantities of each of them between 0 and 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the alkaline composition.

[0047] Preferably, the alkaline composition does not include oxidation dyes. Coloring composition

[0048] Direct colorants

[0049] The colouring composition implemented in the process of the invention comprises one or more direct colour(s).

[0050] By "direct dye," we mean colored species. These are dyes that diffuse superficially onto the fiber. They are different from oxidation dyes.

[0051] The direct dye(s) usable according to the invention are chosen from natural direct dyes, synthetic direct dyes, and their mixtures.

[0052] Preferably, the direct dye(s) usable according to the invention are chosen from among ionic direct dyes and non-ionic direct dyes, more particularly from among cationic direct dyes, amphoteric direct dyes, anionic direct dyes, non-ionic direct dyes, and mixtures thereof.

[0053] Direct dyes are for example chosen from among benzene nitrate direct dyes, azo direct dyes, tetraazapentamethinic dyes, quinonic dyes and in particular anthraquinone dyes, azinic direct dyes, triarylmethanic direct dyes, azomethine direct dyes and natural direct dyes.

[0054] The colouring composition may include one or more non-ionic direct dyes.

[0055] Among non-ionic direct dyes, we can mention neutral benzene nitrate direct dyes, neutral azo direct dyes, neutral anthraquinone dyes.

[0056] The colouring composition may include one or more cationic direct dyes.

[0057] By "cationic direct dye" is meant any dye other than oxidation dyes, commonly called "basic" direct dyes or "basic dyes". They are called basic because of their affinity for acidic substances, having in their structure at least one endo- or exocyclic cationic or cationizable group.

[0058] The cationic direct dye(s) contain at least one quaternized cationic chromophore or at least one chromophore bearing a quatemized or quatemisable cationic group.

[0059] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the cationic direct dyes comprise at least one quantified cationic chromophore.

[0060] Examples of cationic direct dyes according to the invention include acridines; acridones; anthranthrones; anthrapyrimidines; anthraquinones; azines; (poly)azo dyes, hydrazonos or hydrazones, in particular arylhydrazones; azomethines; benzantrones; benzimidazoles; benzimidazolones; benzindoles; benzoxazoles; benzopyrans; benzothiazoles; benzoquinones; bisazines; bis isoindolines; carboxanilides; coumarins; cyanines such as azacarbocyanines, diazacarbocyanines, diazahemicyanines, hemicyanines, or tetraazacarbocyanines; diazines; diketopyrrolopyrroles; dioxazines; diphenylamines; diphenylmethanes; dithiazines; flavonoids such as flavanthones and flavones; fluorindines; formazans; indamines; indanthrones; indigoids and pseudoindigoids; indophenols; indoanilines; isoindolines; isoindolinones; isoviolanthrones; lactones; (Poly)methines such as stilbene or styryl-type dimethines; naphthalimides; naphthanilides; naphtholactams; naphthoquinones; nitro, including nitro(hetero)aromatics; oxadiazoles; oxazines; perilones; perinones; perylenes; phenazines; phenoxazine; phenothiazines; phthalocyanine; polyenes / carotenoids; porphyrins; pyrantrones; pyrazolantrones; pyrazolones; pyrimidinoantrones; pyronines; quinacridones; quinolines; quinophthalones; squaranes; tetrazoliums; thiazines, thioindigo; thiopyronines; triarylmethanes, or xanthenes.

[0061] For cationic azo dyes, particular mention can be made of those derived from the cationic dyes described in the Kirk-Othmer Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology, “Dyes, Azo”, J. Wiley & sons, updated on 19 / 04 / 2010.

[0062] Among the azo dyes that can be used according to the invention, cationic azo dyes described in patent applications WO 95 / 15144, WO 95 / 01772 and EP 714954 can be mentioned.

[0063] Among the azo dyes described in the Colour Index International, 3rd edition, the following compounds may be cited, in particular: -Basic Red 22 -Basic Red 76 -Basic Yellow 57 -Basic Brown 16 -Basic Brown 17.

[0064] Among the cationic quinone dyes, those mentioned in the aforementioned Colour Index International are suitable, and among these, the following dyes may be cited, among others: -Basic Blue 22 -Basic Blue 99.

[0065] Among the suitable azinic dyes, those listed in the Colour Index International may be cited, for example the following dyes: -Basic Blue 17 -Basic Red 2.

[0066] Among the cationic triarylmethane dyes that can be used according to the invention, the following dyes may be mentioned, in addition to those listed in the Colour Index: -Basic Green 1 -Basic Violet 3 -Basic Violet 14 -Basic Blue 7 -Basic Blue 26.

[0067] Cationic dyes can also be cited in documents US 5888252, EP 1133975, WO 03 / 029359, EP 860636, WO 95 / 01772, WO 95 / 15144, EP 714954. Also cited are those listed in the encyclopedia "The chemistry of synthetic dye" by K. VENKATARAMAN, 1952, Academy Press, volumes 1 to 7, in the "Kirk-Othmer" encyclopedia "Chemical technology", chapter "Dyes and Dye intermediate", 1993, Wiley and Sons, and in various chapters of the encyclopedia "ULLMANN'S ENCYCLOPEDIA of Industrial Chemistry", 7th edition, Wiley and Sons.

[0068] Preferably, cationic direct dyes are chosen from those derived from azo and hydrazono type dyes.

[0069] According to a particular embodiment, the direct dyes are cationic azoic dyes, described in EP 850636, FR 2788433, EP 920856, WO 9948465, FR 2757385, EP 850673, WO 850638, WO 9948433 9744004, FR 2570946, FR 2285851, DE 2538363, FR 2189006, FR 1560664, FR 1540423, FR 1567219, FR 1516943, FR 1212, 228 DE 4137005, WO 0166646, US 5708151, WO 9501772, WO 515144, GB 1195386, US 3524842, US 5879413, EP 1062940, EP 113938, DE 61387, DE 2527638, FR 2275462, GB 1974-27645, Acta Histochem. (1978), 61(1), 48-52 ; Cytology (1968), 10(3), 403-5 ; Zh. Obshch. Khim. (1970), 40(1), 195-202 ; Ann. Say. (Rome) (1975), 65(5-6), 305-14 ; Journal of the Chinese Chemical Society (Taipei) (1998), 45(1), 209-211 ; Rev. Rome. Say. (1988), 33(4), 377-83 ; Text. Nothing. J. (1984), 54(2), 105-7 ; Say. Ind. (Milan) (1974), 56(9), 600-3 ; Khim. Technol. (1979), 22(5), 548-53 ; Word. Monatsh. Chem. (1975), 106(3), 643-8 ; MRL Bull. Nothing. Dev.(1992), 6(2), 21-7; Lihua Jianyan, Huaxue Fence (1993), 29(4), 233-4; Dyes Pigm. (1992), 19(1), 69-79; Dyes Pigm. (1989), 11(3), 163-72. .

[0070] Preferably, the cationic direct dye(s) comprise a quaternary ammonium group, more preferably the cationic charge is endocyclic.

[0071] These cationic radicals are for example a cationic radical: - with an exocyclic charge (di / tri)(Ci-C8)alkylammonium, or - with an endocyclic charge such as comprising a cationic heteroaryl group chosen from: acridinium, benzimidazolium, benzobistriazolium, benzopyrazolium, benzopyridazinium, benzoquinolium, benzothiazolium, benzotriazolium, benzoxazolium, bi-pyridinium, bis-tetrazolium, dihydrothiazolium, imidazopyridinium, imidazolium, indolium, isoquinolium, naphthoimidazolium, naphthooxazolium, naphthopyrazolium, oxadiazolium, oxazolium, oxazolopyridinium, oxonium, phenazinium, phenooxazolium, pyrazinium, pyrazolium, pyrazoyltriazolium, pyridinium, pyridinoimidazolium, pyrrolium, pyrylium, quinolium, tetrazolium, thiadiazolium, thiazolium, thiazolopyridinium, thiazoylimidazolium, thiopyrylium, triazolium or xanthylium.

[0072] Examples include hydrazono cationic dyes of formula (C-II) and (C-III), azo dyes of formula (C-IV) and (C-V), as well as their optical, geometric, tautomeric isomers, their salts of organic or mineral acids or bases, and their solvates such as hydrates:

[0073] Hét+-C(Ra)=NN(Rb)-Ar, Q (C-II)

[0074] Hét+-N(Ra)-N=C(Rb)-Ar, Q (C-III)

[0075] Het+-N=N-Ar, Q (C-IV)

[0076] Ar+-N=N-Ar”, Q (CV),

[0077] formulas (C-II) to (CV) wherein: * Het+ represents a cationic heteroaryl radical, preferably with endocyclic cationic charge such as imidazolium, indolium, or pyridinium, possibly preferentially substituted by at least one (Ci-C8)alkyl group such as methyl; * Ar+ represents an aryl radical, such as phenyl or naphthyl, with an exocyclic cationic charge, preferably ammonium, particularly tri(Ci-C8)alkyl-ammonium such as trimethylammonium; * Ar represents an aryl group, in particular phenyl, possibly substituted, preferably by one or more electron-donating groups such as i) (CrC8)alkyl possibly substituted, ii) (Ci-C8)alkoxy possibly substituted, iii) (di)(CrC8)(alkyl)amino possibly substituted on the alkyl group(s) by a hydroxyl group, iv) aryl(Ci-C8)alkylamino, v) N-(Ci-C8)alkyl-N-aryl(Ci-C8)alkylamino possibly substituted or else Ar represents a julolidine group; * Ar” represents a (hetero)aryl group possibly substituted such as phenyl or pyrazolyl possibly substituted, preferably by one or more (CrC8)alkyl, hydroxyl, (di)(Ci-C8)(alkyl)amino, (CrC8)alkoxy or phenyl groups; * Ra and Rb, identical or different, representing a hydrogen atom or a (CrC8)alkyl group possibly substituted, preferably by a hydroxyl group; * or the substituent Ra with a substituent of Het+ and / or Rb with a substituent of Ar together form with the atoms that bear them a (hetero)cycloalkyl; particularly Ra and Rb, representing a hydrogen atom or a (Cr C4)alkyl group possibly substituted by a hydroxyl group; * Q represents an organic or mineral anionic counter-ion such as a halide or alkyl sulfate.

[0078]

[0079] In particular, one can cite the endocyclic cationic direct dyes of azo and hydrazono of formula (C-II) to (CV) as defined above; more particularly the endocyclic cationic direct dyes of formula (C-II) to (CV) described in patent applications WO 95 / 15144, WO 95 / 01772 and EP-714954. Preferably, the following direct dyes can be mentioned: R4 (C-II-1),

[0080]

[0081] formulas (C-II-1) and (C-IV-1) in which: - R1 represents an (Ci-C4)alkyl group such as methyl; - R2 and R3, whether identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or an (Ci-C4)alkyl group such as methyl; and - R4 represents a hydrogen atom or an electron-donating group such as (Ci-C8)alkyl possibly substituted, (CrC8)alkoxy possibly substituted, (di)(Ci-C8)(alkyl)amino possibly substituted on the alkyl group(s) by a hydroxyl group; particularly R4 is a hydrogen atom, - Z represents a CH group or a nitrogen atom, preferably CH, - Q is an anionic counterion as defined previously particularly a halide such as chloride or an alkyl sulfate such as methyl sulfate or mesytyl. In particular, colorants of formula (C-II-1) and (C-IV-1) are chosen from Basic Red 51, Basic Yellow 87 and Basic Orange 31 or their derivatives: HSC Basic Red 51 Basic Yellow 87, with Q' an anionic counter ion as defined above, particularly a halide such as chloride or an alkyl sulfate such as methyl sulfate or mesytyl.

[0082] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the direct dyes are fluorescent, that is to say they contain at least one fluorescent chromophore as defined above.

[0083] Examples of fluorescent dyes include radicals derived from the dyes acridines, acridones, benzantrones, benzimidazoles, benzimidazolones, benzindoles, benzoxazoles, benzopyranes, benzothiazoles, coumarins, difluoro{2-[(2H-pyrrol-2-ylidene-kN)methyl]-1H-pyrrolato-kN]bores (BODIPY®), diketopyrrolo-pyrroles, fluorindines, (poly)methines (in particular cyanines and styryls / hemicyanines), naphthalimides, naphthanilides, naphthylamine (such as dansyls), oxadiazoles, oxazines, perilones, perinones, perylenes, polyenes / carotenoids, squaranes, stilbenes, xanthenes.

[0084] We may also mention the fluorescent dyes described in documents EP 1133975, WO 03 / 029359, EP 860636, WO 95 / 01772, WO 95 / 15144, EP 714954 and those listed in the encyclopedia "The Chemistry of Synthetic Dye" by K. VENKATARAMAN, 1952, Academy Press, vols. 1-7, in the "Kirk-Othmer" encyclopedia "Chemical Technology", chapter "Dyes and Dye Intermediate", 1993, Wiley and Sons, and in various chapters of the encyclopedia "ULLMANN'S ENCYCLOPEDIA of Industrial Chemistry", 7th edition, Wiley and Sons, in The Handbook — A Guide to Fluorescent Probes and Labeling Technologies, 1st ed. Molecular Probes / Invitrogen - Oregon 2005 distributed via the Internet or in previous printed editions.

[0085] According to one embodiment of the invention, the cationic dye(s) are fluorescent and comprise at least one quaternary ammonium radical such as those of the following (C-VI) formula, as well as their optical, geometric, tautomeric isomers, their salts of organic or mineral acids or bases, and their solvates such as hydrates:

[0086] W+-[C(Rc)=C(Rd)]m'-Ar, Q (C-VI),

[0087] formula (C-VI) in which: * W+ represents a cationic heterocyclic or heteroaryl group, particularly comprising a quaternary ammonium possibly substituted by one or more (CrC8)alkyl groups possibly substituted in particular by one or more hydroxyl groups; * Ar representing an aryl group such as phenyl or naphthyl, possibly substituted preferably by i) one or more halogen atoms, such as chlorine, fluorine; ii) one or more (Ci-C8)alkyl groups, preferably in Ci-C4 such as methyl; iii) one or more hydroxyl groups; iv) one or more (CrC8)alkoxy groups such as methoxy; v) one or more hydroxy(Ci-C8)alkyl groups such as hydroxyethyl; vi) one or more amino or (di)(Ci-C8)alkylamino groups, preferably with the alkyl portion in Ci-C4 possibly substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups such as (di)hydroxyethylamino; vii) by one or more acylamino groups; viii) one or more heterocycloalkyl groups such as pyperazinyl, pyperidinyl or 5 or 6-membered heteroaryl groups such as pyrrolidinyl, pyridinyl and imidazolinyl; * m' represents an integer between 1 and 4 inclusive, particularly m is 1 or 2; more preferably 1; * Rc, Rd, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a (Ci-C8)alkyl group possibly substituted, preferably at C1-C4, or else Rc contiguous to W+ and / or Rd contiguous to Ar form with the atoms that bear them a (hetero)cycloalkyl, particularly Rc is contiguous to W+ and form a (hetero)cycloalkyl such as cyclohexyl; * Q is an organic or mineral anionic counterion as defined above.

[0088] Among cationic direct dyes, triarylmethane cationic dyes may also be mentioned.

[0089] Preferably, the triarylmethane cationic direct dye(s) according to the invention are chosen from the following cationic dyes of formulas (C-VII) and (C-VII'): (C-VII),

[0090] as well as its addition salts with an acid or a base, organic or mineral, its geometric, optical, tautomeric isomers, and its mesomeric forms, its solvates such as hydrates,

[0091] preceding formulas (C-VII) and (C-VII') in which: * Ri, R2, Ri and R4, whether identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a (Ci-C6)alkyl group, possibly substituted, preferably by a hydroxyl group; aryl such as phenyl, aryl(Ci-C4)alkyl such as benzyl, heteroaryl, heteroaryl(Ci-C4)alkyl, or two groups Ri and R2, and / or R3 and Ri, borne by the same nitrogen atom, together with the nitrogen atom bearing them form a heterocycloalkyl group, possibly substituted, such as morpholino, piparazino, piperidino, preferably RB. R2, R3 and Ri, whether identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a (Ci-C4)alkyl group. * R5, R6, R7, R8, R9, Rio, Ru, Ri2, Ri3, Ri4, Rb and R16, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, a halogen, or a group chosen from i) hydroxy, ii) thiol, iii) amino iv) (di)(Ci-C4)(alkyl)amino, v) (di)arylamino such as (di)phenylamino, vi) nitro, vii) acylamino (-NR-C(O)R') in which the radical R is a hydrogen atom, a Ci-C4 alkyl radical possibly bearing at least one hydroxyl group and the radical R' is a CrC2 alkyl radical; viii) carbamoyl ((R)2N-C(O)-) in which the radicals R, identical or not, represent a hydrogen atom, a CrC4 alkyl radical possibly bearing at least one hydroxyl group; ix) carboxylic acid or ester, (-OC(O)R') or

[0092] (-C(O)OR'), wherein the radical R' is a hydrogen atom, or alkyl in Ci -C4 possibly bearing at least one hydroxyl group and the radical R' is a Ci-C2 alkyl radical; x) alkyl possibly substituted in particular by a hydroxy group; xi) alkylsulfonylamino (R'SO2-NR-) in which the radical R represents a hydrogen atom, a C1-C4 alkyl radical possibly bearing at least one hydroxyl group and the radical R' represents a CrC4 alkyl radical, a phenyl radical; xii) aminosulfonyl ((R)2N-SO2 ) in which the radicals R, identical or not, represent a hydrogen atom, a CrC4 alkyl radical possibly bearing at least one hydroxyl group, xiii) (Ci-C4)alkoxy, and xiv) (Ci-C4)alkylthio;* Or, two radicals carried by two adjacent carbon atoms R5 and R6 and / or R7 and R8, and / or R9 and R10 and / or Ru and Rn and / or Rn and RM and / or Rb and R6 together with the carbon atoms that support them form a condensed 6-membered aryl or heteroaryl ring, preferably benzo, said ring possibly being further substituted, preferably an unsubstituted benzo ring; * Q represents an anionic counter ion to achieve electroneutrality, preferably chosen from halides such as chloride, bromide, and phosphate.

[0093] When the cationic dye includes one or more anionic substituents such as COOR or SO3R with R denoting a hydrogen or a cation, it is understood that there are then more cationic substituents than anionic substituents, so that the overall resulting charge of the triarylmethane structure is cationic.

[0094] According to a preferred embodiment, the triarylmethane dye(s) is / are selected from those of formula (C-VII) or (C-VII'), wherein, taken together or separately, - Rb, R2, R3 and Ri represent a hydrogen atom or an (CrC4)alkyl group such as methyl or ethyl, - R5, R6, R7, R8, R9, Rio, Ru, Ri2, Ri3, Ri4, Rb and R[6, represent a hydrogen atom, a halogen such as chlorine, or a (Ci-C4)alkyl group such as methyl or ethyl, an amino group, a (di)(CrC4)(alkyl)amino group and, preferably, at least one of the groups R9, Rio, Ru or R[2 represents a hydrogen atom, a halogen (Cl), or an amino group, or a (Ci-C4)(alkyl)amino or (di)(Ci-C4) (alkyl)amino group, preferably in the para position of the phenyl group.

[0095] Preferably, the direct triarylmethane structure dye(s) are chosen from Basic Violet 1, Basic Violet 2, Basic Violet 3, Basic Violet 4, Basic Violet 14, Basic Blue 1, Basic Blue 7, Basic Blue 26, Basic green 1, Basic Blue 77 (also called HC Blue 15), and mixtures thereof.

[0096] Among cationic direct dyes, anthraquinone cationic dyes can also be mentioned.

[0097] The anthraquinone cationic direct dye(s) usable in the coloring composition of the invention comprise a quaternary ammonium group.

[0098] These cationic radicals are, for example, a cationic radical: - with an exocyclic charge (Ci-C8)alkylammonium, or - à charge endocyclique tels que comprenant un groupe hétéroaryle cationique choisi parmi : acridinium, benzimidazolium, benzobistriazolium, benzopyrazolium, benzopyridazinium, benzoquinolium, benzothiazolium, benzotriazolium, benzoxazolium, bi-pyridinium, bis-tétrazolium, dihydrothiazolium, imidazopyridinium, imidazolium, indolium, isoquinolium, naphthoimidazolium, naphthooxazolium, naphthopyrazolium, oxadiazolium, oxazolium, oxazolopyridinium, oxonium, phénazinium, phénooxazolium, pyrazinium, pyrazolium, pyrazoyltriazolium, pyridinium, pyridinoimidazolium, pyrrolium, pyrylium , quinolium, tétrazolium, thiadiazolium, thiazolium, thiazolopyridinium, thiazoylimidazolium, thiopyrylium, triazolium ou xanthylium.

[0099] De préférence, la charge cationique est exocyclique.

[0100] Parmi les colorants directs cationiques anthraquinoniques, on préfère ceux de formule (C-VIII) ayant une charge cationique exocyclique : (c-vm)

[0101] in which: - R1, R2 and R3, identical or different, representing a hydrogen atom or a (CrC8)alkyl group possibly substituted; - R4 representing a hydrogen atom or a (CrC8)alkyl group possibly substituted; - R5 represents a hydrogen atom, a (Ci-C8)alkyl group (possibly substituted), a (CrC8)alkylene group (possibly substituted), a halogen, a hydroxyl group, or a (Ci-C8)alkoxy group - n representing a number between 1 and 8; - Q represents an organic or mineral anionic counter-ion such as a halide or an alkyl sulfate.

[0102] Preferably, in formula (C-VIII): - R1, R2 and R3, identical or different, representing a (Ci-C6)alkyl group possibly substituted; - R4 representing a hydrogen atom or possibly substituted (Ci-C6)alkyl group; - R5 representing a hydrogen atom or a (Ci-C8)alkyl group, possibly substituted, - n representing a number between 1 and 6; - Q representing a halide or an alkyl sulfate.

[0103] More preferably, in formula (CVIII): - R1, R2 and R3, identical or different, representing a (Ci-C3)alkyl group possibly substituted; - R4 representing a hydrogen atom or a methyl group; preferably a methyl group - R5 representing a hydrogen atom or a methyl group, preferably a hydrogen atom; - n representing a number between 2 and 4; - Q representing a halide or an alkyl sulfate, preferably a halide.

[0104] Among the dyes of formula (C-VIII), the following dyes of formula (C-VIII') or formula (C-VIII”) may be used in particular:

[0105] with Q an anionic counter ion, particularly a halide such as bromide or chloride, or an alkyl sulfate such as methyl sulfate or mesytyl. Preferably Q is a halide, better, a bromide.

[0106] By "anionic counter-ion" is meant an anion or anionic group derived from a salt of an organic or mineral acid that counterbalances the cationic charge of the dye; more particularly, the anionic counter-ion is selected from i) halides such as chloride, bromide; ii) nitrates; iii) sulfonates, including Ci-C6 alkylsulfonates: Alk-S(O)2O- such as methylsulfonate or mesylate and ethylsulfonate; iv) arylsulfonates: Ar-S(O)2O- such as benzenesulfonate and toluenesulfonate or tosylate; v) citrate; vi) succinate; vii) tartrate; viii) lactate; ix) alkyl sulfates: Alk-OS(O)O- such as methysulfate and ethylsulfate; x) arylsulfates: Ar-OS(O)O- such as benzene sulfate and toluene sulfate; xi) alkoxysulfates: Alk-OS(O)2O- such as methoxy sulfate and ethoxysulfate;xii) aryloxysulfates: Ar-OS(O)2O-, xiii) phosphates O=P(OH)2-O-, O=P(O-)2-OH O=P(O-)3, HO-[P(O)(O-)]wP(O)(O-)2 with w being an integer; xiv) acetate; xv) triflate; and xvi) borates such as tetrafluoroborate, xvii) disulfate (O=)2S(O-)2 or SO42 and monosulfate HSO4. ;

[0107] A dye of formula (C-VIII') particularly preferred is HC Blue 17.

[0108] A dye of formula (C-VIII”) particularly preferred is HC Blue 16 (l-methylamino-4-(3'-dimethylpropylammoniumpropylamino)antraquinone bromide).

[0109] Preferably, the anthraquinone cationic direct dye(s) are chosen from dyes of formula (C-VIII') and (C-VIII”), and more preferably from dyes of formula (C-VIII”), better from HC Blue 16.

[0110] The colouring composition according to the invention may comprise one or more anionic direct dyes.

[0111] The anionic direct dyes of the invention are dyes commonly called "acid" direct dyes because of their affinity for alkali substances. Anionic direct dyes are defined as any direct dye having in its structure at least one CO2R or SO3R substituent, where R designates a hydrogen atom or a cation from a metal or an amine, or an ammonium ion. Anionic dyes can be selected from among acidic nitro direct dyes, acidic azo dyes, acidic azinic dyes, acidic triarylmethanic dyes, acidic indoamine dyes, acidic anthraquinone dyes, acidic indigoid dyes, and acidic natural dyes.

[0112]

[0113] According to the invention, the anionic direct dye(s) can be chosen, alone or in mixture, from the following anionic direct dyes of formulas (A-II), (A-II'), (A-III), (A-III'), (A-IV), (A-IV'), (AV), (A-V'), (A-VI), (A-VII), (A-VIII) and (A-IX): a) Diaryl anionic azo dyes of formula (A-II) or (A-II'):

[0114] formulas (A-II) and (A-II') in which: * R7, R8, R9, Rio, R'7, R'8, R'9 and R'i0, whether identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a group chosen from: - alkyl; - alkoxy, alkylthio; - hydroxy, mercapto; - nitro, nitroso; - R°-C(X)-X'-, R°-X'-C(X)-, R°-X'-C(X)-X”- with R° representing a hydrogen atom, an alkyl or aryl group; X, X' and X”, identical or different, representing an oxygen, sulfur or NR atom with R representing a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group; - (O)2S(O )-, M+ with M+ representing a hydrogen atom or a cationic counter-ion; - (O)CO -, M+ with M+ as defined previously; - R”-S(O)2-, with R” representing a hydrogen atom, an alkyl group, an aryl group, (di)(alkyl)amino, aryl(alkyl)amino; preferably a phenylamino or phenyl group; - R”'-S(O)2-X'- with R'” representing an alkyl group, possibly substituted aryl, X' as defined previously; - (di)(alkyl)amino; - aryl(alkyl)amino possibly substituted by one or more groups chosen from i) nitro; ii) nitroso; iii) (O)2S(O-)-, M+ and iv) alkoxy with M+ as defined above; - heteroaryl possibly substituted; preferably a benzothiazolyl group; - cycloalkyl; in particular cyclohexyl, - Ar N=N with Ar representing an aryl group possibly substituted; preferably a phenyl possibly substituted by one or more alkyl groups, (O)2S(O )-, M+ or phenylamino; - or two contiguous groups R7 with R8 or R8 with R9 or R9 with Rio together form a fused group benzo A'; and R'7 with R'8 or R'8 with R'9 or R'9 with R'io together form a fused group benzo B'; with A' and B' possibly substituted by one or more groups chosen from i) nitro; ii) nitroso; iii) (O)2S(O-)-, M+; iv) hydroxy; v) mercapto; vi) (di)(alkyl)amino; vii) R°-C(X)-X'-; viii) R°-X'-C(X)-; ix) R°-X'-C(X)-X”-; x) Ar-N=N- and xi) aryl(alkyl)amino possibly substituted; with M+, R°, X, X', X” and Ar as defined above; * W represents a sigma bond, an oxygen atom, a sulfur atom, or a divalent radical i) -NR- with R as defined previously, or ii) methylene -C(Ra)(Rb)- with Ra and Rb, identical or different, representing a hydrogen atom or an aryl group, or Ra and Rb together with the carbon atom bearing them form a spiro cycloalkyl; preferably W represents a sulfur atom or Ra and Rb together form a cyclohexyl; provided that formulas (A-II) and (A-II') comprise at least one sulfonate radical (O)2S(O )-, M+ or one carboxylate radical (O)CO -, M+ on one of the rings A, A', B, B' or C; preferably sodium sulfonate;

[0115] A titre d’exemple de colorants de formule (A-II), on peut citer : Acid Red 1, Acid Red 4, Acid Red 13, Acid Red 14, Acid Red 18, Acid Red 27, Acid Red 28, Acid Red 32, Acid Red 33, Acid Red 35, Acid Red 37, Acid Red 40, Acid Red 41, Acid Red 42, Acid Red 44, Pigment red 57, Acid Red 68, Acid Red 73, Acid Red 135, Acid Red 138, Acid Red 184, Food Red 1, Food Red 13, Acid Orange 6, Acid Orange 7, Acid Orange 10, Acid Orange 19, Acid Orange 20, Acid Orange 24, Yellow 6, Acid Yellow 9, Acid Yellow 36, Acid Yellow 199, Food Yellow 3; Acid Violet 7, Acid Violet 14, Acid Blue 113, Acid Blue 117, Acid Black 1, Acid Brown 4, Acid Brown 20, Acid Black 26, Acid Black 52, Food Black 1, Food Black 2 ; Food yellow 3 ou sunset yellow;

[0116] et à titre d’exemple de colorants de formule (A-IF), on peut citer : Acid Red 111, Acid Red 134, Acid yellow 38 ;

[0117] b) les colorants azo anioniques pyrrazolone de formule (A-III) et (A-IIF) :

[0118] formulas (A-III) and (A-III') wherein: * Rn, Rn and Rn, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, a halogen, an alkyl group or -(O)2S(O), M+ with M+ as defined previously; * Ru represents a hydrogen atom, an alkyl group or a -C(O)O group, M+ with M+ as defined previously; * R15 represents a hydrogen atom; * Ri6 represents an oxo group in which case R'i6 is absent, or else R[5 with R[6 together form a double bond; * Rn and Ri8, whether identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, or a group chosen from: - (O)2S(O )-, M+ with M+ as defined previously; - Ar-OS(O)2- with Ar representing an aryl group possibly substituted; preferably a phenyl possibly substituted by one or more alkyl groups; * R19 and R2q together form either a double bond or a benzo D' group, possibly substituted; * R'16, R'19 and R'2O, whether identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl or hydroxy group; * R2i represents a hydrogen atom, an alkyl group, or alkoxy; * Ra and Rb, identical or different, are as defined previously, preferably Ra represents a hydrogen atom and Rb represents an aryl group; * Y represents either a hydroxy group or an oxo group; * represents a single bond when Y is an oxo group; and represents WW JO» •* a double bond when Y represents a hydroxy group; provided that formulas (A-III) and (A-III') comprise at least one sulfonate radical (O)2S(O )-, M+ or one carboxylate radical -C(O)O-, M+ on one of the rings D or E; preferably sodium sulfonate; Examples of colorants with formula (A-III) include: Acid Red 195, Acid Yellow 23, Acid Yellow 27, Acid Yellow 76, and examples of colorants with formula (A-III') include: Acid Yellow 17;

[0119] c) the anthraquinone dyes of formula (A-IV) and (A-IV'):

[0120] formulas (A-IV) and (A-IV) in which: * R22, R23, R24, R25, R26 and R27, whether identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, a halogen atom, or a group chosen from: - alkyl; - hydroxy, mercapto; - alkoxy, alkylthio; - aryloxy or arylthio possibly substituted, preferably substituted by one or more groups chosen from alkyl and (O)2S(O )-, M+ with M+ as defined above; - aryl(alkyl)amino possibly substituted by one or more groups chosen from alkyl and (O)2S(O )-, M+ with M+ as defined previously; - (di)(alkyl)amino; - (di)(hydroxyalkyl)amino - (0)2S(0 )-, M+ with M+ as defined previously; * Z' represents a hydrogen atom or a group NR28R29 where R28 and R29, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a group chosen from: - alkyl; - polyhydroxyalkyl such as hydroxyethyl; - aryl possibly substituted by one or more particularly i) alkyl groups such as methyl, n-dodecyl, n-butyl; ii) (O)2S(O )-, M+ with M+ as defined previously; iii) R°-C(X)-X'-, R°-X'-C(X)-, R°-X'-C(X)-X”- with R°, X, X' and X” as defined previously, preferably R° represents an alkyl group; - cycloalkyl; in particular cyclohexyl; * Z, represents a group chosen from hydroxy and NR'28R'29 with R'28 and R'29, identical or different, represent the same atoms or groups as R28 and R29 as defined previously; provided that formulas (A-IV) and (A-IV') comprise at least one sulfonate radical (O)2S(O )-, M+ or one carboxylate radical -C(O)O, M+; preferably sodium sulfonate; As an example of dyes of formula (A-IV), we can cite: Acid Blue 25, Acid Blue 43, Acid Blue 62, Acid Blue 78, Acid Blue 129, Acid Blue 138, Acid Blue 140, Acid Blue 251, Acid Green 25, Acid Green 41, Acid Violet 42, Acid Violet 43, Mordant Red 3; EXT purple No. 2; and as an example of dyes of formula (A-IV') we can cite: Acid Black 48;

[0121] d) the nitro dyes of formula (AV), and (A-V'):

[0122] formulas (AV) and (A-V') wherein: * R3o, R3i and R32, whether identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, a halogen atom, or a group chosen from: - alkyl; - alkoxy possibly substituted by one or more hydroxy groups, alkylthio possibly substituted by one or more hydroxy groups; - hydroxy, mercapto; - nitro, nitroso; - polyhalogenoalkyl; - R°-C(X)-X'-, R°-X'-C(X)-, R°-X'-C(X)-X”- with R° ; X, X' and X” as defined previously; - (O)2S(O )-, M+ with M+ as defined previously; - (O)CO -, M+ with M+ as defined previously; - (di)(alkyl)amino;

[0123] - (di)(hydroxyalkyl)amino; - heterocycloalkyl such as piperidino, piperazino or morpholino; particularly R30, R3i and R32 represent a hydrogen atom; * Rc and Rd, whether identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group; * W is as defined previously; W particularly represents a -NH- group; * ALK represents a divalent alkylene group, linear or branched, in Ci-C6; particularly ALK represents a -CH2-CH2- group; * n equals 1 or 2; * p represents an integer between 1 and 5 inclusive; * q represents an integer between 1 and 4 inclusive; * u is equal to 0 or 1; * when n equals 1, J represents a nitro, or nitroso, group; particularly nitro; * when n equals 2, J represents an oxygen atom, a sulfur atom, or a divalent radical -S(O)m- with m representing an integer 1 or 2; preferably J represents a radical -SO2-; * M' represents a hydrogen atom or a cationic counter-ion; * .. present or absent represents a benzo group, possibly substituted by one or more R30 groupings as defined above; provided that the formulas (AV) and (A-V') include at least one sulfonate radical (O)2S(O )-, M+ or one carboxylate radical -C(O)O-, M+; preferably sodium sulfonate;

[0124] Examples of colorants of formula (AV) include: Acid Brown 13; Acid Orange 3; examples of colorants of formula (A-V') include: Acid Yellow 1, Sodium salt of 2,4-dinitro-1-naphthol-7-sulfonic acid, 2-piperidino-5-nitrobenzenesulfonic acid, 2(4'-N,N(2"-hydroxyethyl)amino-2'-nitro)aniline ethanesulfonic acid, 4-β-hydroxyethylamino-3-nitrobenzenesulfonic acid; EXT D&C yellow 7;

[0125] e) triarylmethane dyes of formula (A-VI): r;, (A-VI)

[0126] formula (A-VI) wherein: * R33, R34, R35 and R36, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a group chosen from alkyl, possibly substituted aryl and possibly substituted arylalkyl; particularly an alkyl and benzyl group possibly substituted by an (O)mS(O )-, M+ group with M+ and m as defined above; * R37, R38, R39, R40, R41, R42, 845 and R44, whether identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a group chosen from: - alkyl; - alkoxy, alkylthio; - (di)(alkyl)amino; - hydroxy, mercapto; - nitro, nitroso; - R°-C(X)-X'-, R°-X'-C(X)-, R°-X'-C(X)-X”- with R° representing a hydrogen atom, an alkyl or aryl group; X, X' and X”, identical or different, representing an oxygen, sulfur or NR atom with R representing a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group; - (O)2S(O )-, M+ with M+ representing a hydrogen atom or a cationic counter-ion; - (O)CO -, M+ with M+ as defined previously; - or two contiguous groups R4i with R42 or R2 with R4i or R43 with R44 together form a fused benzo group: I'; with I' possibly substituted by one or more groups chosen from i) nitro; ii) nitroso; iii) (O)2S(O)-, M+; iv) hydroxy; v) mercapto; vi) (di)(alkyl)amino; vii) R°-C(X)-X'-; viii) R°-X'-C(X)-; ix) R°-X'-C(X)-X”-; with M+, R°, X, X', X” as defined previously; particularly R37 at Rio represent a hydrogen atom, and Ri at IR, identical or different represent a hydroxy group or (O)2S(O )-, M+; and when R3 with R4 together form a benzo group, it is preferentially substituted by an (O)2S(O )- group; provided that at least one of the rings G, H, I, or I' comprises at least one sulfonate radical (O)2S(O)- or one carboxylate radical -C(O)O; preferably sulfonate. Examples of dyes with the formula (A-VI) include: Acid Blue 1; Acid Blue 3; Acid Blue 7; Acid Blue 9; Acid Violet 49; Acid Green 3; Acid Green 5; Acid Green 50;

[0127] f) xanthene-derived dyes of formula (A-VII): % % (A-VII) Ri

[0128] formula (A-VII) wherein: * R5, R46, R7 and R48, whether identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a halogen atom; * R9, R50, R51 and R52, whether identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, a halogen atom, or a group chosen from: - alkyl; - alkoxy, alkylthio; - hydroxy, mercapto; - nitro, nitroso; - (O)2S(O )-, M+ with M+ representing a hydrogen atom or a cationic counter-ion; - (O)CO -, M+ with M+ as defined previously; in particular R53, R54, R55 and R48 represent a hydrogen or halogen atom; * G represents an oxygen atom, sulfur atom or an NR group with R representing a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group; particularly G represents an oxygen atom; * L represents an alkoxide O M+; a thioalkoxide S, M+ or an NRf group, with Rf representing a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group, and M+ as defined previously; M+ is particularly sodium or potassium; * L' represents an oxygen atom, sulfur atom or ammonium group: N+ RfRg, with Rf and Rg, identical or different, representing a hydrogen atom, an alkyl group, aryl group possibly substituted; L' particularly represents an oxygen atom or a phenylamino group possibly substituted by one or more alkyl groups or (O)mS(O )-, M+ with m and M+ as defined previously; * Q and Q', whether identical or different, represent an oxygen or sulfur atom; particularly Q and Q' represent an oxygen atom; * M+ is as defined previously.

[0129] As an example of colorants of formula (A-VII), we can mention: Acid Yellow 73; Acid Red 51; Acid Red 52, Acid Red 87; Acid Red 92; Acid Red 95; Acid Violet 9;

[0130] g) dyes derived from indole of formula (A-VIII): (A-vni)

[0131] formula (A-VIII) wherein: * R53, R54, R55, R56, R57, R58, R59 and R60, whether identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a group chosen from: - alkyl; - alkoxy, alkylthio; - hydroxy, mercapto; - nitro, nitroso;

[0132] - R°-C(X)-X'-, R°-X'-C(X)-, R°-X'-C(X)-X”- with R° representing an atom of hydrogen, an alkyl or aryl group; X, X' and X”, identical or different, representing an oxygen, sulfur or NR atom with R representing a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group; - (O)2S(O )-, M+ with M+ representing a hydrogen atom or a cationic counter-ion; - (O)CO -, M+ with M+ as defined previously; * G represents an oxygen atom, sulfur atom or an NR group with R representing a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group; particularly G represents an oxygen atom; * Ri and Rh, whether identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group; provided that the formula (A-VIII) comprises at least one sulfonate radical (O)2 S(O )-, M+ or one carboxylate radical -C(O)O, M+; preferably sodium sulfonate;

[0133] As an example of dyes of formula (A-VIII), the following may be cited: Acid Blue 74.

[0134] h) quinoline-derived dyes of formula (A-IX):

[0135] formula (A-IX) wherein: * R6i represents a hydrogen atom, halogen or alkyl group; * R62, Res, and Rm, whether identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a (O)2S(O )- group, M+ with M+ representing a hydrogen atom or a cationic counter-ion; * or R6i with R62, or R6i with R64, together form a benzo group possibly substituted by one or more (O)2S(O )- groups, M+ with M+ representing a hydrogen atom or a cationic counter-ion; it being understood that the formula (A-IX) includes at least one sulfonate radical (O)2S(O )-, M+ preferably sodium sulfonate.

[0136] Examples of colorants of formula (A-IX) include: Acid Yellow 2, Acid Yellow 3 and Acid Yellow 5.

[0137] More specifically, the coloring composition comprises one or more anionic direct dyes selected, alone or in mixture, from the following anionic direct dyes:

[0138] [Tables 1] (CI 45380) Acid Red 87 (A-VII) (CI 10316) Sodium salt of 2,4-dinitro-l-naphthol-7-sulfonic acid (A-V') (CI 10383) Acid Orange 3 (AV) (C.L 13015) Acid Yellow 9 / Food Yellow 2 (A-II) (C.l. 14780) / Direct Red 45 / Food Red 13 (A-II) (C.l. 13711) Acid Black 52 (A-II) (C.l. 13065) Acid Yellow 36 (A-II) (C.l. 14700) Sel de sodium de l’acide l-hydroxy-2-(2',4'-xylyl-5-sufonatoazo)-naphtalène-4-sulfonique / Food Red 1 (A-II) (C.l. 14720) Acid Red 14 / Food Red 3 / Mordant Blue 79 (A-II) (C. 1. 14805) Sel de sodium de l’acide 4-hydroxy-3-[(2-métoxy-5-. nitrophényl) diaza]-6-(phénylamino)naphtalène-2-sulfonique / Acid Brown 4 ( A-II) (C.l. 15510) Acid Orange 7 / Pigment Orange 17 / Solvent Orange 49 (A-II) (C.l. 15985) Food Yellow 3 / Pigment Yellow 104 (A-II) (C.l. 16185) Acid Red 27 / Food Red 9 (A-II) (C.l. 16230) Acid Orange 10 / Food Orange 4 (A-II) (C.l. 16250) Acid Red 44 (A-II) (C.l. 17200) Acid Red 33 / Food Red 12 (A-II) (C.l. 15685) Acid Red 184 (A-II) (C.l. 19125) Acid Violet 3 (A-II) (C.l.18055) Sodium salt of l-hydroxy-2-(4'-acetamidophenylazo)-8-acetamido-naphthalene-3,6-disulfonic acid / Acid Violet 7 / Food Red 11 (A-II) (Cl 18130) Acid Red 135 (A-II) (Cl 19130) Acid Yellow 27 (A-III) (Cl 19140) Acid Yellow 23 / Food Yellow 4 (A-III) (Cl 20170) 4'-(sulfonato-2,4"-dimethyl)-bis-(2,6-phenylazo)-1,3-dihydroxybenzene / Acid Orange 24 (A-II) (Cl 20470) Sodium salt of l-amino-2-(4'-nitrophenylazo)-7-phenyla zo-8-hydroxy-naphthalene-3,6-disulfonic / Acid Black 1 (A-II) (Cl 23266) (4-((4-methylphenyl)sulfonyloxy)-phenylazo)2,2'-dimethyl-4-((2-hydroxy-5,8-disulfonato)naphtylazo)biphenyl / Acid Red 111 (A -II') (Cl 27755) Food Black 2 (A-II) . (CI 25440) l-(4'-sulfonatophenylazo)-4-((2"-hydroxy-3"-acetylamino-6,8"-disulfonato)naphtylazo)-6-sulfonatonaphthalene (tetrasodium salt) / Food Black 1 (A-II) (CI 42090) Acid Blue 9 (A-VI) (CI 60730) Acid Violet 43 (A-IV) (CI 61570) Acid Green 25 (A-IV) (CI 62045) Sodium salt of l-amino-4-cyclohexylamino-9,10-anthraquinone 2-sulfonic acid / Acid Blue 62 (A-IV) (CI 62105) Acid Blue 78 (A-IV) (CI 14710) Sodium salt of 4-hydroxy-3((2-methoxy) phenyl)-azo)-l-naphthalene sulfonic acid / Acid Red 4 (A-II) 2-piperidino-5-nitrobenzene sulfonic acid (V') 2(4'-N,N(2'-hydroxyethyl)amino-2'-nitro)aniline ethane sulfonic acid (A-V') 4-[3-hydroxyethylamino-3-nitrobenzene sulfonic acid (A-V') (CI 42640) Acid Violet 49 (A-VI) (CI 42080) Acid Blue 7 (A-VI) (CI 58005) Sodium salt of l,2-dihydroxy-3-sulfo-anthraquinone / Mordant Red 3 (A-IV) (CI62055) Sodium salt of l-amino-9,10-dihydro-9,10-dioxo-4-(phenylamino) 2-anthracene sulfonic acid / Acid Blue 25 (A-IV) (CI 14710) Sodium salt of 4-hydroxy-3-((2-methoxyphenyl)-azo)-l-naphthalene sulfonic acid / Acid Red 4 (A-II) .

[0139] Most of these dyes are described in particular in the Color Index published by The Society of Dyers and Colorists, PO Box 244, Perkin House, 82 Grattan Road, Bradford, Yorkshire, BD1 2JBN England.

[0140] The anionic colorants most particularly preferred are the colorants designated in the Color Index under the code CI 58005 (monosodium salt of 1,2-dihydroxy-9,10-anthraquinone-3-sulfonic acid), CI 60730 (monosodium salt of 2-[(9,10-dihydro-4-hydroxy-9,10-dioxo-l-anthracenyl)-amino]-5-methylbenzenesulfonic acid), CI 15510 (monosodium salt of 4-[(2-hydroxy-l-naphthalenyl)-azo]-benzenesulfonic acid), CI 15985 (disodium salt of 6-hydroxy-5-[(4-sulfophenyl)-azo]-2-naphthalenesulfonic acid), CI 17200 (disodium salt of 5-amino-4-hydroxy-3-(phenylazo)-2,7-naphthalene disulfonic acid), CI 20470 (disodium salt of l-amino-2-(4'-nitrophenylazo)-7-phenylazo-8-hydroxy-3,6-naphthalene disulfonic acid), CI 42090 (disodium salt of N-ethyl-N-[4-[[4-[ethyl[3-sulfophenyl)-methyl]-amino]-phenyl](2-sulfophenyl)-methylene]-2,5-cyclohexadien-l-ylidene]-3-sulfobenzenemethanaminium hydroxide, internal salt), CI 61570 (disodium salt of 2,2'-[(9,10-dihydro-9,10-dioxo-l,4-anthracenediyl)-diimino]-bis-[5-methyl]-benzene sulfonic acid.

[0141] Compounds corresponding to the mesomeric, tautomeric forms of (A-II) to (A-IX) structures can also be used.

[0142] Among the natural direct dyes that can be used according to the invention, mention may be made of hennotannic acid, juglone, alizarin, purpurin, carminic acid, kermesic acid, purpurogallin, protocatechaldehyde, indigo, isatin, curcumin, spinulosin, apigenidine, and orcein. Extracts or decoctions containing these natural dyes, and in particular henna-based poultices or extracts, may also be used.

[0143] Preferably, the colouring composition implemented in the process of the invention comprises one or more cationic direct colour(s).

[0144] Preferably, the colouring composition used in the process of the invention comprises one or more cationic direct dye(s) chosen from azo cationic direct dyes, hydrazono cationic direct dyes, anthraquinone cationic direct dyes, and mixtures thereof.

[0145] Preferably, the total content of the direct colorant(s) ranges from 0.001 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.005 to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.01 to 10% by weight, better from 0.05 to 5% by weight, even better from 0.1 to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the coloring composition.

[0146] Preferably, the total content of the cationic direct colorant(s) ranges from 0.001 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.005 to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.01 to 10% by weight, better from 0.05 to 5% by weight, even better from 0.1 to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the coloring composition.

[0147] Aromatic alcohol

[0148] The colouring composition implemented in the process of the invention may comprise one or more aromatic alcohols.

[0149] Preferably, the coloring composition implemented in the process of the invention comprises one or more aromatic alcohols.

[0150] The term "aromatic alcohol" means any compound that is liquid at room temperature and atmospheric pressure and comprises at least one benzene or naphthalene ring and at least one alcohol (OH) function directly or indirectly linked to the ring. on at least one substituent of said ring. Preferably, the alcohol function will be on a substituent of the benzene or naphthalene ring.

[0151] Preferably, the coloring composition used in the process of the invention comprises at least one aromatic alcohol of formula (I):

[0152] in which Y represents a Ci-C4 hydroxyalkyl group or a Ci-C4 hydroxyalkyloxy radical, n denotes an integer ranging from 0 to 5, and X independently represents a CrC4 alkyl radical or a halogen. In other words, when n > 1, the different Xs may be identical or different.

[0153] Preferably, n is equal to 0.

[0154] According to a particular embodiment, Y represents a hydroxymethyl, hydroxyethyl or hydroxyethyloxy radical.

[0155] Examples of aromatic alcohols of formula (I) include benzyl alcohol, phenyl ethanol, and phenoxyethanol. In a particular embodiment, the aromatic alcohol of formula (I) is benzyl alcohol.

[0156] The aromatic alcohol(s) may be present in the colouring composition implemented in the process according to the invention in a total content ranging from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 8% by weight, better from 0.1 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the colouring composition.

[0157] Preferably, the aromatic alcohol(s) of formula (I) may be present in the colouring composition implemented in the process according to the invention in a total content ranging from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 8% by weight, better from 0.1 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the colouring composition.

[0158] Preferably, benzyl alcohol can be present in the colouring composition implemented in the process according to the invention in a total content of 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably 0.05 to 8% by weight, better 0.1 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the colouring composition.

[0159] Aliphatic solvent

[0160] The colouring composition implemented in the process of the invention may comprise one or more C2-C6 hydroxylated aliphatic solvent(s).

[0161] Preferably, the coloring composition implemented in the process of the invention comprises one or more C2-C6 hydroxylated aliphatic solvent(s).

[0162] By aliphatic, we mean a compound not containing an aromatic ring. Solvents of this type may be monoalcohols or polyols that are liquid at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (105 Pa). Preferably, these solvents are non-etherified.

[0163] According to a particular embodiment, these solvents are selected from ethanol, glycerol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, and hexylene glycol. Preferably, the C2-C6 hydroxylated aliphatic solvent is ethanol and / or hexylene glycol, preferably ethanol.

[0164] The hydroxylated aliphatic solvent(s) may be present in the colouring composition implemented in the process according to the invention in a total content ranging from 0.1% to 40% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 30% by weight, more preferably from 1% to 20% by weight, better from 2% to 15% by weight, even better from 3% to 10% by weight, relative to the weight of the colouring composition.

[0165] Preferably, ethanol can be present in the colouring composition implemented in the process according to the invention in a total content ranging from 0.1% to 40% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 30% by weight, more preferably from 1% to 20% by weight, better from 2% to 15% by weight, even better from 3% to 10% by weight, relative to the weight of the colouring composition.

[0166] Preferably, the coloring composition comprises one or more aromatic alcohols and one or more aliphatic solvents. The weight ratio of aromatic alcohol(s) to C2-C6 hydroxylated aliphatic solvent(s) is preferably less than or equal to 1, preferably from 0.1 to 1, and even better from 0.1 to 0.5.

[0167] Preferably, the coloring composition comprises benzyl alcohol and ethanol. The weight ratio of benzyl alcohol to ethanol is preferably less than or equal to 1, preferably from 0.1 to 1, and even better from 0.1 to 0.5.

[0168] Polysaccharide

[0169] The coloring composition implemented in the process of the invention may also include one or more polysaccharide(s).

[0170] In the present invention, "polysaccharide" means a polymer composed of sugar units. "Sugar unit" means an oxygenated hydrocarbon compound possessing several alcohol functional groups, with or without aldehyde or ketone functional groups, and comprising at least four carbon atoms. The sugar units may optionally be modified by substitution, and / or by oxidation, and / or by dehydration.

[0171] The sugar motifs that may be included in the composition of the polysaccharides of the invention are preferably derived from the following sugars: glucose; galactose; arabinose; rhamnose; mannose; xylose; fucose; anhydrogalactose; galacturonic acid; glucuronic acid; mannuronic acid; galactose sulfate; anhydrogalactose sulfate and fructose.

[0172] The following polymers, alone or in mixtures, may be cited in particular as polysaccharides: a) exudates from trees or shrubs, including: - gum arabic (branched polymer of galactose, arabinose, rhamnose and glucuronic acid); - Ghatti gum (polymer derived from arabinose, galactose, mannose, xylose and glucuronic acid); - karaya gum (polymer derived from galacturonic acid, galactose, rhamnose and glucuronic acid); - tragacanth gum (or tragacanth) (polymer of galacturonic acid, galactose, fucose, xylose and arabinose); b) gums derived from algae, including: - agar (polymer derived from galactose and anhydrogalactose); - alginates (polymers of mannuronic acid and glucuronic acid); - carrageenans and furcelleranes (polymers of galactose sulfate and anhydrogalactose sulfate); c) gums from seeds or tubers, including: - guar gum (polymer of mannose and galactose); - carob gum (polymer of mannose and galactose); - fenugreek gum (polymer of mannose and galactose); - tamarind gum (polymer of galactose, xylose and glucose); - konjac gum (polymer of glucose and mannose); d) microbial gums, including: - xanthan gum (polymer of glucose, mannose acetate, mannose / pyruvic acid and glucuronic acid); - gellan gum (polymer of partially acylated glucose, rhamnose and glucuronic acid); - scleroglucan gum (glucose polymer); e) polymers extracted from plants, including: - celluloses (polymers of glucose); - starches (polymers of glucose) and - inulin.

[0173] These polymers can be modified physically or chemically. Physical treatments include, in particular, heat treatment. Chemical treatments include esterification, etherification, amidation, and oxidation reactions. These treatments lead to polymers that can be, in particular, nonionic, anionic, or amphoteric.

[0174] In particular, guar gums, locust bean gums, starches and celluloses can be modified / treated.

[0175] The guar gums usable according to the invention can be modified by (poly)hydroxylakyl groups in the C1-6 range. Examples of (poly)hydroxyalkyl groups in the C1-6 range include hydroxymethyl, hydroxyethyl, hydroxypropyl, and hydroxybutyl groups. These guar gums are well known in the prior art and can, for example, be prepared by reacting corresponding alkene oxides, such as propylene oxides, with guar gum to obtain guar gum modified by hydroxypropyl groups. The degree of hydroxyalkylation preferably ranges from 0.4 to 1.2 and corresponds to the number of alkylene oxide molecules consumed per number of free hydroxyl groups present on the guar gum.

[0176] Such guar gums possibly modified by hydroxyalkyl groups are for example sold under the trade names JAGUAR HP8, JAGUAR HP60 and JAGUAR HP120 by the company RHODIA CHIMIE.

[0177] The starches usable in the present invention may be of botanical origin from cereals or tubers. Thus, the starches are chosen, for example, from corn, rice, oat, cassava, barley, potato, wheat, sorghum, pea, and tapioca starches. Hydrolysates of the starches mentioned above may also be used. The starch is preferably derived from potato.

[0178] Preferably, starch phosphates will be used, in particular distarch phosphates or compounds rich in distarch phosphate such as the product offered under the references PREJEL VA-70-T AGGL (gelatinized hydroxypropyl cassava distarch phosphate) or PREJEL TK1 (gelatinized cassava distarch phosphate) or PREJEL 200 (gelatinized acetylated cassava distarch phosphate) by the AVEBE Company or STRUCTURE ZEA of NATIONAL STARCH (gelatinized maize distarch phosphate).

[0179] According to the invention, amphoteric starches can also be used; these amphoteric starches comprise one or more anionic groups and one or more cationic groups. The anionic and cationic groups may be linked to the same reactive site of the starch molecule or to different reactive sites; preferably, they are linked to the same reactive site. The anionic groups may be of the carboxylic, phosphate, or sulfate type, and preferably carboxylic. The cationic groups may be of the primary, secondary, tertiary, or quaternary amine type.

[0180] The polysaccharides that can be used according to the invention can be cellulosic polymers.

[0181] By "cellulosic" polymer, according to the invention, any polysaccharide compound having in its structure chains of glucose residues joined by [3-1,4] bonds; in addition to unsubstituted celluloses, cellulose derivatives can be anionic, cationic, amphoteric or non-ionic.

[0182] Cellulosic polymers are also called celluloses.

[0183] Thus, the cellulosic polymers usable according to the invention can be chosen from unsubstituted celluloses including in microcrystalline form and cellulose ethers.

[0184] Among these cellulosic polymers, we distinguish cellulose ethers, cellulose esters and cellulose ether esters.

[0185] Cellulose esters include inorganic cellulose esters (cellulose nitrates, sulfates, or phosphates), organic cellulose esters (cellulose monoacetates, triacetates, amidopropionates, acetatebutyrates, acetatepropionates, or acetatetrimellitates), and mixed organic / inorganic cellulose esters such as cellulose acetatebutyrates and acetatepropionate sulfates. Examples of cellulose ether esters include hydroxypropylmethylcellulose phthalates and ethylcellulose sulfates.

[0186] Among the cellulose ethers, we may mention (Ci-C4)alkylcelluloses such as methylcelluloses and ethylcelluloses (for example Ethocel standard 100 Premium from DOW CHEMICAL); (poly)hydroxy(Ci-C4)alkylcelluloses such as hydroxymethylcelluloses, hydroxyethylcelluloses (for example Natrosol 250 HHR offered by ASHLAND) and hydroxypropylcelluloses (for example Klucel EF from AQUALON); mixed celluloses (poly)hydroxy(Ci-C4)alkyl-(Ci-C4)alkylcelluloses such as hydroxypropyl-methylcelluloses (for example Methocel E4M from DOW CHEMICAL), hydroxyethyl-methylcelluloses, hydroxyethyl-ethylcelluloses (for example Bermocoll E 481 FQ from AKZO NOBEL) and hydroxybutyl-methylcelluloses.

[0187] Among the anionic cellulose ethers, mention may be made of (poly)carboxy(C1-C4)alkylcelluloses and their salts. By way of example, mention may be made of carboxymethylcelluloses, carboxymethylmethylcelluloses (for example Blanose 7M from the company AQUALON) and carboxymethylhydroxyethylcelluloses and their sodium salts.

[0188] Among cationic cellulose ethers, one can cite cationic cellulose derivatives such as cellulose copolymers or cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer, and described in particular in US patent 4131576, such as (poly)hydroxy(Ci-C4)alkyl celluloses, such as grafted hydroxymethyl-, hydroxyethyl- or hydroxypropyl celluloses, in particular with a salt of methacryloylethyl trimethylammonium, methacrylmidopropyl trimethylammonium, dimethyl-diallylammonium. The marketed products meeting this definition are more specifically the products sold under the names "Celquat® L 200" and "Celquat® H 100" by Société National Starch.

[0189] Preferably, the polysaccharide(s) are chosen from scleroglucan gums, cellulosic polymers, xanthan gums, guar gums, preferably from scleroglucan gums, guar gums and cellulosic polymers.

[0190] The polysaccharide(s) may be present in the coloring composition implemented in the process according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.001 to 5% by weight and preferably from 0.01 to 4%, and even more preferably from 0.05 to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the coloring composition.

[0191] The colouring composition according to the invention may comprise water or a mixture of water and optionally one or more solvents other than compounds of formula (I) and C2-C6 hydroxylated aliphatic solvents such as polyol ethers like dipropylene glycol monomethyl ether.

[0192] Preferably, the colouring composition comprises water, preferably in a content of 20 to 95% by weight, preferably 30 to 80% by weight, and even more preferably 40 to 87% by weight relative to the total weight of the colouring composition.

[0193] The colouring composition implemented in the process of the invention may also contain various adjuvants conventionally used in compositions for colouring hair, such as anionic, cationic, non-ionic, amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants; anionic, cationic, amphoteric, zwitterionic or non-ionic polymers other than polysaccharides; mineral or organic thickening agents; antioxidants, penetration agents, sequestering agents, perfumes, buffers, dispersing agents, conditioning agents, film-forming agents, ceramides, preservatives, opacifying agents.

[0194] The above adjuvants are generally present in quantities of each of them between 0.01 and 20% by weight relative to the weight of the coloring composition.

[0195] Of course, the person skilled in the art will take care to choose this or these possible complementary compounds in such a way that the advantageous properties intrinsically attached to the colouring composition are not, or substantially not, altered by the envisaged addition(s).

[0196] The pH of the coloring composition used in the process according to the invention is generally between approximately 2 and 13, preferably between 2.5 and 10, and preferably still between 5 and 9. It can be adjusted to the desired value by means of acidifying or alkalizing agents usually used in dyeing keratin fibers or by means of conventional buffer systems.

[0197] Examples of acidifying agents include mineral or organic acids such as hydrochloric acid, orthophosphoric acid, sulfuric acid, carboxylic acids such as acetic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, lactic acid, and sulfonic acids.

[0198] Examples of alkalizing agents include ammonium hydroxide, alkali carbonates, alkanolamines such as mono-, di- and triethanolamines and their derivatives, sodium or potassium hydroxides and compounds of the following formula: NWN ZX R d

[0199] in which W is a propylene residue optionally substituted by a hydroxyl group or a Ci-C4 alkyl radical; Ra, Rb, Rc and Rd, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, a CrC4 alkyl radical or a Ci-C4 hydroxyalkyl radical. Process

[0200] The keratin fiber coloring process according to the invention comprises i) applying the alkaline composition described above to said keratin fibers, and ii) applying the coloring composition described above.

[0201] The staining composition is separate from the alkaline composition. The compositions are applied to the keratin fibers sequentially.

[0202] Preferably, the step of applying the coloring composition is carried out after the step of applying the alkaline composition.

[0203] Preferably, the staining composition is applied to the keratin fibers less than two hours after the alkaline composition, preferably less than 90 minutes, better, less than 60 minutes.

[0204] The alkaline composition can be applied to dry or moist keratin fibers.

[0205] The alkaline composition is preferably left in place on the fibers for a period of 1 minute to 1 hour, preferably from 5 minutes to 55 minutes.

[0206] Preferably, the coloring process according to the invention includes a step of rinsing the keratin fibers between steps i) and ii), preferably after the application of the alkaline composition to the keratin fibers.

[0207] Preferably, after leaving the alkaline composition in place on the keratin fibers for the desired duration, the keratin fibers are rinsed with water, and optionally undergo washing with shampoo followed by rinsing with water, before possibly being wrung out, dried or left to dry.

[0208] Alternatively, the process according to the invention may not include a step of rinsing the keratin fibers between steps i) and ii).

[0209] The coloring composition is then applied ii) to dry or moist keratin fibers.

[0210] The coloring composition is preferably left in place on the fibers for a period of 1 minute to 100 minutes, preferably 5 minutes to 80 minutes.

[0211] At the end of the treatment, the keratin fibers are possibly rinsed with water, possibly undergo washing with shampoo followed by rinsing with water, before being dried or left to dry.

[0212] Preferably, the coloring process according to the invention does not use hydrogen peroxide.

[0213] Preferably, the coloring process according to the invention does not use peroxygenated salt.

[0214] Preferably, the coloring process according to the invention does not use an oxidizing agent.

[0215] Preferably, the coloring process according to the invention does not use an oxidation dye.

[0216] The invention also relates to a method for coloring the keratin fibers of the invention, in which the following is applied to the keratin fibers: (i) an alkaline composition comprising one or more alkaline agent(s), preferably selected from ammonium hydroxide and organic alkali agents, the alkaline composition being free from hydrogen peroxide; then ii) a colouring composition comprising: - one or more direct dye(s), - one or more aromatic alcohol(s) of formula (I): in which Y represents a C1-C4 hydroxyalkyl group or a Ci-C4 hydroxyalkyloxy radical, n denotes an integer ranging from 0 to 5, X independently represents a CrC4 alkyl radical or a halogen, - one or more C2-C6 aliphatic hydroxylated solvent(s). Kit

[0217] Another object of the invention is a device with at least two compartments, for the staining of keratin fibers, comprising at least a first compartment containing a staining composition comprising one or more direct dye(s), at least a second compartment containing an alkaline composition comprising one or more alkaline agent(s) and free of hydrogen peroxide.

[0218] The compositions of the device according to the invention are packaged in separate compartments, accompanied, optionally, by suitable application means, identical or different, such as brushes, sponges or brushes.

[0219] The device mentioned above can also be equipped with a means for delivering the desired mixture onto the hair, for example such as the devices described in patent FR 2586913.

[0220] The following examples serve to illustrate the invention without, however, being limiting in nature. Examples

[0221] In the following examples, all quantities are given as mass percentage of active material (AM) relative to the total weight of the composition (unless otherwise stated).

[0222] Compositions A, Al, A2 and C were prepared from the compounds whose contents are indicated in the tables below:

[0223] Alkaline compositions A, Al and A2

[0224] [Tables2] A Al A2 monoethanolamine 0.2 1.29 5.16 Water Qs 100 Qs 100 Qs 100 PH 9.8 11.5 11.8

[0225] Coloring composition C

[0226] [Tables3] C benzyl alcohol 2.0 ethanol 8.0 BASIC RED 76 0.5 BASIC BROWN 17 0.5 BASIC YELLOW 57 0.6 HC BLUE NO. 16 0.75 Scleroglucan gum 2.0 Sequestering agent 0.5 pH adjuster Qs pH = 7 + / - 0.2 Water Qs 100

[0227] The process according to the invention (Protocol 1) comprising the application of an alkaline composition followed by the application of a colouring composition was compared to a process which only comprises the application of the colouring composition, without first applying the alkaline composition (Protocol 2).

[0228] Protocol 1 (invention)

[0229] The alkaline compositions A, Al and A2 were applied to a strand of 90% natural white hair at a rate of 3g / g of hair.

[0230] After 10 minutes of application at room temperature, the hair was rinsed with water.

[0231] Colouring composition C was then applied to the strands at a rate of 5g of mixture / g of hair.

[0232] After a processing time of 60 min at 27°C under an occlusive cellophane system, the strands were rinsed, then washed and dried using a hair dryer.

[0233] Protocol 2 (comparative)

[0234] Colour composition C was applied to a strand of hair that was 90% natural white at a rate of 5g of mixture / g of hair.

[0235] After a processing time of 60 min at 27°C under an occlusive cellophane system, the strands were rinsed, then washed and dried using a hair dryer.

[0236] Colorimetric measurements were carried out using a Zeiss INTERLOCK T 2.0 / 100 ZF-I 2 MACRO objective multispectral camera to evaluate hair colouring in the L*a*b* system.

[0237] In this system, L* represents lightness, a* and b* represent the chromaticity of the hair, a* representing the red / green axis and b* the yellow / blue axis. The lower the value of L*, the more powerful (intense) the resulting color. Evaluation 1

[0238] The resulting color is evaluated by measuring AE, which is the color change before and after application of the color from the formula: â E=

[0239] in which L* represents the intensity, a* and b* the chromaticity of the colored hair and Lq* represents the intensity and a0* and b0* the chromaticity of the untreated hair. The color is more intense the higher the AE.

[0240] Results

[0241] [Tables4] L* a* b* AE Reference, untreated hair 67.37 0.67 17.57 Protocol 2 (comparative) 29.32 3.28 7.92 39.3 Protocol 1 composition A (invention) 24.37 3.565 5.09 44.9 Protocol 1 composition A1 (invention) 22.85 2.62 3.46 46.7 Protocol 1 composition A2 (invention) 22.14 1.93 3.31 44.9

[0242] The hair strands treated with the alkaline compositions before the coloring step according to the invention have a lower L* value and a higher AE value than those treated only with the coloring step according to the comparator.

[0243] In other words, the process according to the invention makes it possible to obtain a more intense colouring than the comparative process. Evaluation 2

[0244] Strands treated according to protocol 1 for compositions Al and A2 and those treated according to protocol 2 were subjected to a washing test with shampoo in order to evaluate the tenacity (the persistence) of the color obtained.

[0245] The washing test is carried out on the strands after protocols 1 and 2, after they have been dried with a hairdryer. Colorimetric measurements were carried out after washing the strands.

[0246] The variation in the color of the strands before and after washing was measured by AE according to the following equation: AE= ^(L* -Lo T +(a*- *)2 + (b* -b0 *)2

[0247] In this equation, L*, a* and b* represent the values ​​measured after washing the colored hair and Lo*, a0* and b0* represent the values ​​measured before washing the colored hair.

[0248] The higher the AE value, the greater the difference in colour before and after washing, and the less resistant the colour is to shampoos.

[0249] [Tables5] L* a* b* AE Protocol 2 (comparative) Pre-shampoo 29.32 3.28 7.92 13.1 After-shampoo 41.8 0.91 10.94 Protocol 1 composition Al (invention) Pre-shampoo 22.85 2.62 3.46 9.2 After-shampoo 31.26 2.23 7.12 Protocol 1 Composition A2 (invention) Pre-shampoo 22.14 1.93 3.31 9.7 Post-shampoo 31.65 1.1 5.09

[0250] The hair strands treated with the alkaline compositions prior to the coloring step according to the invention have a lower AE value than those treated only with the coloring step according to the comparator.

[0251] The process according to the invention therefore makes it possible to obtain a better color retention after shampooing compared to the comparative process.

Claims

Demands

1. A method for coloring keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers such as hair, wherein the following are applied to the keratin fibers: i) an alkaline composition comprising one or more alkaline agent(s), the alkaline composition being free of hydrogen peroxide; and ii) a coloring composition comprising one or more direct dye(s).

2. A coloring process according to claim 1 wherein the coloring composition comprises one or more aromatic alcohols.

3. A coloring process according to any one of claims 1 or 2 wherein the coloring composition comprises one or more aromatic alcohol(s) of formula (I): PQn y ® in which Y represents a Ci-C4 hydroxyalkyl group or a Ci-C4 hydroxyalkyloxy radical, n denotes an integer from 0 to 5, X independently represents a Ci-C4 alkyl radical or a halogen.

4. A coloring process according to the preceding claim in which the aromatic alcohol(s) of formula (I) are selected from benzyl alcohol, phenyl ethanol, phenoxyethanol, preferably benzyl alcohol.

5. A coloring process according to any one of claims 2 to 4 wherein the total content of the aromatic alcohol(s) in the coloring composition is from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 8% by weight, better from 0.1 to 5% by weight relative to the weight of the coloring composition.

6. A coloring process according to any one of the preceding claims wherein the coloring composition comprises one or more C2-C6 aliphatic hydroxylated solvent(s).

7. A coloring process according to the preceding claim, wherein the C2-C6 hydroxylated aliphatic solvent(s) are selected among ethanol, glycerol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, hexylene glycol, preferably ethanol and / or hexylene glycol, preferably ethanol.

8. A coloring process according to any one of claims 6 and 7 wherein the total content of the C2-C6 hydroxylated aliphatic solvent(s) ranges from 0.1% to 40% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 30% by weight, more preferably from 1% to 20% by weight, better from 2% to 15% by weight, even better from 3% to 10% by weight, relative to the weight of the coloring composition.

9. A coloring process according to any one of claims 6 to 8 wherein the weight ratio of aromatic alcohols / C2-C6 hydroxylated aliphatic solvent(s) is less than or equal to 1, preferably from 0.1 to 1, better still from 0.1 to 0.

5.

10. A coloring process according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the coloring composition comprises one or more cationic direct dye(s), preferably selected from azo cationic direct dyes, hydrazono cationic direct dyes, anthraquinone cationic direct dyes, and mixtures thereof.

11. A coloring process according to any one of the preceding claims wherein the total content of the direct colorant(s) ranges from 0.001 to 20%, preferably from 0.005 to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.01 to 10% by weight, better from 0.05 to 5% by weight, even better from 0.1 to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the coloring composition.

12. A coloring process according to any one of the preceding claims wherein the alkali agent is selected from ammonium hydroxide and organic alkali agents, preferably from alkanolamines such as monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine; ammonium hydroxide, better from alkanolamines, even better, monoethanolamine.

13. A coloring process according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the pH of the alkaline composition ranges from 7 to 13, preferably from 8 to 12.5, better from 9 to 12, even better from 10 to 10

14. 1Z. A coloring method according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the coloring composition is applied to the keratin fibers after the alkaline composition, preferably less than two hours after the alkaline composition, preferably less than 90 minutes, better less than 60 minutes.

15. A coloring process according to any one of the preceding claims comprising a step of rinsing the keratin fibers between steps i) and ii).

16. A device with at least two compartments, for staining keratin fibers, comprising at least a first compartment containing a staining composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 11, at least a second compartment containing an alkaline composition, preferably as defined in any one of claims 12 and 13, comprising one or more alkaline agent(s) and being free of hydrogen peroxide.