Method for obtaining extracts of Inula helenium and their use, particularly in cosmetics, for skin care

Abstract

L'OREAL The present invention relates to methods for obtaining a plant extract from flowering tops of Inula helenium, as well as plant extracts of Inula helenium, compositions comprising them, and their implementation to prevent and / or treat a pigmentary disorder, in particular (i) a pigmentary spot, in particular an actinic lentigo, (ii) a post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, in particular linked to a scar or an unsightly disorder following an inflammatory skin manifestation, in particular a scar or an acne mark or (iii) a melasma.

Description

Title of the invention: Process for obtaining NI-null helenium extracts and their use, particularly in cosmetics, for skin care. Technical field

[0001] The present invention relates to the field of plant extracts, in particular derived from Inula helenium, as well as to processes for obtaining such extracts and for using these extracts as active ingredients for the care of keratinous materials, in particular the skin. Previous technique

[0002] The skin is one of the largest and most complex organ systems in mammals, representing approximately 10% of body weight. Under physiological conditions, it constitutes an essential protective barrier against external aggressions while regulating the biological interactions between the organism and its environment. In addition to this mechanical barrier function, the skin is the site of complex biological mechanisms. In particular, it possesses the remarkable ability to activate an endogenous process known as "inflammation resolution," which limits damage following an injury by promoting the cessation of inflammation, tissue repair, and the return to tissue homeostasis.

[0003] This active process relies on cellular and molecular activities, including the polarization of pro-inflammatory macrophages (M1) towards a pro-resolving state (M2), and the conversion of pro-inflammatory molecules into anti-inflammatory and pro-resolving mediators called Specialized Pro-Resolving Mediators (SPMs). These mechanisms, although robust under normal conditions, can be disrupted in many chronic skin disorders, such as actinic lentigo (AL) and age spots.

[0004] LA is a hyperpigmented lesion associated with photoaging. Recent work has highlighted the presence of persistent local microinflammation in these lesions, characterized by excessive infiltration of macrophages and T cells, in particular a significant increase in pro-inflammatory CD80+ / CD68+ macrophages (M1) at the expense of pro-resolving macrophages (M2). This imbalance in the M1 / M2 ratio reflects a chronic pro-inflammatory environment, marked by the activation of the arachidonic acid cascade and the plasminogen pathway, leading to excessive prostaglandin production and a decrease in anti-inflammatory cytokines. Consequently, the natural process of inflammation resolution is hindered, promoting continuous recruitment leukocytes and the degradation of surrounding tissues. This mechanism not only contributes to skin hyperpigmentation, but can also exacerbate skin aging and the risk of malignant transformation in some cases (Duval et al., Scientific Reports, 14(1), 5256, (2024)).

[0005] A similar imbalance between M1 and M2 macrophages is observed in other skin disorders, including UV-induced skin aging also called photoaging (Horiba et al., JID innovations, 2(3), 100112 (2022)), post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, in particular hyperpigmentation associated with healing processes or unsightly disorders following inflammatory skin manifestations such as acne marks (Feng et al., Frontiers in immunology, 15, 1355455 (2024)).

[0006] Post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH) related to scars or to Unsightly skin disorders resulting from inflammatory skin conditions, particularly acne scars, are indeed a direct consequence of the inflammatory response in the skin. This response stems from an overproduction of melanin by melanocytes, stimulated by inflammatory mediators released during the healing of skin lesions. This excessive pigmentation is especially common in cases of deep inflammatory acne scars or marks and can be exacerbated by external factors, such as UV exposure. Acne scars, which include atrophic and hypertrophic forms, are often associated with hyperpigmentation, further impacting the aesthetic and emotional burden on patients.

[0007] Treating HPI and acne scars presents a challenge, with conventional approaches focusing on reducing pigmentation (via depigmenting agents, chemical peels or lasers) or improving structural scars (through tissue remodeling).

[0008] Despite the diversity of approaches available for treating these disorders, their effectiveness is often limited in the short term, and relapses are frequent after treatment is discontinued. Current treatments mainly include topical approaches, such as tretinoin or hydroquinone creams, aimed at reducing hyperpigmentation. These options can cause side effects, including skin irritation or increased sensitivity to UV radiation. Furthermore, more invasive procedures such as laser therapy or cryotherapy are sometimes used, but they can lead to complications such as scarring or post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation. These limitations highlight the importance of developing new, more effective and lasting approaches to treat pigmentary disorders, and in particular pigmentary spots, such as actinic lentigo, post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, and melasma.

[0009] Thus, there remains a need to develop more effective, more specific and more sustainable solutions, capable of naturally restoring skin homeostasis by promoting the resolution of skin inflammation.

[0010] Unexpectedly, the inventors found that a specific plant extract of Inula helenium, and in particular a plant extract of the flowering tops of Inula helenium obtained by a process according to the invention, exhibits properties particularly suited to resolving inflammation in the skin. More specifically, this extract stimulates the polarization of macrophages towards a pro-resolving M2 phenotype and / or promotes the production of SPMs. These innovative characteristics pave the way for a significant improvement in existing treatments. Thus, it is proposed to apply topically a composition containing such an extract, enabling the active promotion of inflammation resolution in the skin by modulating the M1 / M2 ratio and stimulating pro-resolving mechanisms.

[0011] As a cosmetic ingredient, this specific extract of Inula helenium offers an innovative approach to improving, in the short and long term, the prevention and / or treatment of the aforementioned disorders, in particular chronic inflammatory skin disorders, such as pigmentary disorders, especially those related to inflammation, such as pigment spots, post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, and melasma.

[0012] Furthermore, the formulation of environmentally friendly cosmetic products, that is, products whose design and development take environmental issues into account, is becoming a major concern in order to help address global challenges. It is therefore essential to offer more sustainable compositions and / or preparation processes and / or ingredients that can thus meet these environmental challenges.

[0013] In this context, it is important to develop new environmentally friendly ingredients and / or active ingredients, particularly those of natural origin, especially bio-based and / or from sustainable sources not derived from petrochemicals and / or biodegradable and / or whose extraction process requires low energy and water consumption in order to offer compositions that reduce the environmental impact of products.

[0014] There is therefore a need for a new active ingredient, particularly cosmetic, to stimulate the resolution of inflammation in the skin.

[0015] There is also a need for a new active ingredient, particularly cosmetic, to promote the natural cessation of inflammation, tissue repair and a return to skin homeostasis.

[0016] There is also a need for a new active ingredient, particularly cosmetic, to increase the secretion by skin cells of several pro-resolutive lipid mediators such as lipoxin A4, maresin 2, resolvin DI and resolvin E4.

[0017] There is also a need for a new active ingredient, particularly for cosmetics, which allows, in macrophages in the skin, the reduction of the expression of pro-inflammatory genes, such as PTGS2 and / or TNF-a and / or the increase of the expression of pro-resolving markers, such as CD206, CD209 and / or IL-10, and / or the increase of the secretion by skin cells of one or more pro-resolving lipid mediators, such as lipoxin A4, maresin 2, resolvin DI and / or resolvin E4.

[0018] There is also a need for a new active ingredient, particularly cosmetic, to promote the polarization of macrophages into pro-resolving M2 macrophages at the skin level.

[0019] There is also a need for a new active ingredient, particularly cosmetic, to promote the polarization of macrophages into pro-resolving M2 macrophages and / or to induce the production of SPMs at the skin level.

[0020] There is also a need for a new active ingredient, particularly cosmetic, to prevent and / or treat the signs of skin aging, in particular age spots.

[0021] There is also a need for a new active ingredient, particularly cosmetic, to provide short- and long-term treatment for pigmentary disorders such as actinic lentigo, but also for other inflammatory skin disorders such as post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation and melasma.

[0022] There is also a need for a new active ingredient, particularly cosmetic, to provide short- and long-term treatment for chronic inflammatory skin disorders such as pigmentary disorders linked to inflammation, such as pigment spots, particularly actinic lentigo also called solar lentigo, or post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, for example linked to scars or unsightly disorders following an inflammatory skin manifestation, in particular acne scars or marks, or melasma.

[0023] The present invention is specifically designed to meet all these needs. Description of the invention

[0024] The inventors have surprisingly discovered that a specific extract of Inula helenium, obtained by a new process according to the present application, effectively stimulates the resolution of skin inflammation by promoting the polarization of M2 macrophages and / or by inducing the production of SPMs (mediators specialized in resolution).

[0025] It has thus been demonstrated, as illustrated in the following examples, that such an extract, or a composition containing it, supports the resolution process of skin inflammation, a process that is important for the reduction of inflammation, tissue repair, and the return to skin homeostasis. This makes it possible to prevent and / or treat pigmentary disorders related to inflammation, such as pigment spots (such as actinic lentigo), post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, for example, related to scars or unsightly disorders resulting from inflammatory skin manifestations, particularly acne scars or marks, or melasma.

[0026] By promoting the resolution of inflammation via M2 macrophages and SPMs, an extract according to the present invention offers a dual action: it supports tissue repair while reducing the processes responsible for HPI. This mechanism helps restore healthy skin by minimizing the pigmentary and structural marks left by inflammation. Summary of the invention

[0027] Thus, according to a first aspect, the present invention relates to a process for obtaining a plant extract from the flowering tops of Inula helenium comprising the steps of: a) to bring into contact at least one plant biomass comprising, preferably consisting of, flowering tops of Inula helenium with an extraction solvent comprising at least one cosmetically acceptable organic solvent, at an extraction temperature lower than the boiling point of the extraction solvent at atmospheric pressure, in particular the duration of step a) being between 10 seconds and 5 hours; and b) removing plant biomass residues, in particular by decantation and / or filtration.

[0028] According to a second aspect, the present invention relates to a process for obtaining a plant extract comprising, preferably consisting of, flowering tops of Inula helenium, comprising the steps of: a) bring into contact at least one plant biomass comprising, preferably consisting of, flowering tops of Inula helenium with an extraction solvent consisting of water at an extraction temperature between 40°C and 90°C, in particular between 45°C and 85°C, and more particularly about 50°C; in particular the duration of step a) being between 10 seconds and 5 hours; and b) eliminate plant biomass residues, in particular by decantation and / or filtration.

[0029] The plant biomass comprising, and in particular consisting of, flowering tops of Inula helenium of step a) of a process according to the invention may comprise, and may in particular consist of, flowering tops of Inula helenium harvested at the stage of full flowering, and in particular flowering tops of Inula helenium harvested at the stage of full flowering, dried and / or ground.

[0030] The plant biomass comprising, and in particular consisting of, flowering tops of Inula helenium from step a) can be dried in a step a') before implementation of step a), for at least about 24 hours, in particular about 72 hours, at a drying temperature between 30°C and 60°C, in particular between 30°C and 50°C, more particularly between 30°C and 40°C, in particular about 35°C.

[0031] The plant biomass comprising, and in particular consisting of, flowering tops of Inula helenium from step a) can be ground in a step a”) before the implementation of step a), with a particle size of between 2 cm and 0.1 mm, preferably between 1 cm and 0.5 mm, more particularly between 4 mm and 1 mm, in particular with a particle size of about 2 mm. Preferably, when step a') and step a”) are implemented, step a' is carried out before step a”).

[0032] Step a) of a process according to the invention may be an extraction step selected from a maceration step, an extrusion step or a percolation step, and is in particular a maceration step or an extrusion step.

[0033] Said at least one cosmetically acceptable organic solvent may be chosen from among protic polar organic solvents, aprotic polar organic solvents, and nonpolar organic solvents, and mixtures thereof, it being understood that the solvents must be miscible with each other.

[0034] Among the protic polar organic solvents, we may mention i) polyols and glycols, and more particularly glycerin (glycerol), propanediol, butanediol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, tripropylene glycol, PPG-3 methyl ether, and PPG-2 butyl ether ii) alcohols, and more particularly ethanol, isopropyl alcohol, t-butyl alcohol, phenethyl alcohol, caprylyl glycol, ethylhexylglycerin, and iii) mixtures thereof.

[0035] Among the aprotic polar organic solvents, the following may be mentioned: i) esters, and more particularly, triethyl citrate, acetyl tributyl citrate, ethyl acetate, propyl acetate, butyl acetate, amyl acetate, phenethyl benzoate, propylene glycol dibenzoate, Cl2-15 alkyl benzoate, ii) ketones, and more particularly, acetone, iii) carbonates, and more particularly, propylene carbonate, iv) amides, and more particularly, ethyl tosylamide, v) dimethyl isosorbide, vi) fatty acids, and more particularly, dilinoleic acid, and vii) their mixtures.

[0036] Among the nonpolar organic solvents we can mention i) alkanes, and more particularly undecane, tridecane, C15-C19 alkanes, C9-12 alkanes, isohexadecane, isododecane, isoeicosane and ii) their mixtures.

[0037] The aforementioned protic, aprotic and nonpolar polar organic solvents may be used in mixtures, provided that said solvents are miscible with each other.

[0038] Said at least one cosmetically acceptable organic solvent may be chosen from the group consisting of protic polar organic solvents, such as ethanol, propanediol, glycerol, butanediol and mixtures thereof; and / or from the group consisting of aprotic polar organic solvents, such as acetone, ethyl acetate, and mixtures thereof.

[0039] According to one embodiment, said at least one cosmetically acceptable organic solvent is chosen from the group consisting of protic polar organic solvents and is preferably chosen from ethanol, propanediol, glycerol, butanediol and mixtures thereof.

[0040] According to another embodiment, said at least one cosmetically acceptable organic solvent is chosen from the group consisting of aprotic polar organic solvents and is preferably chosen from ethyl acetone, and mixtures thereof.

[0041] According to another embodiment, said at least one cosmetically acceptable organic solvent is chosen from the group consisting of nonpolar organic solvents and is preferably isododecane.

[0042] The extraction solvent may further comprise water and the cosmetically acceptable organic solvent may be miscible in water.

[0043] Preferably, the extraction solvent consists of at least one cosmetically acceptable organic solvent miscible in water and water, in particular the cosmetically acceptable organic solvent(s) and water being in a weight ratio of water:cosmetically acceptable organic solvent(s) of between 5:95 and 95:5, preferably 10:90 and 90:10, more preferably between 15:85 and 85:15, even better between 17:83 and 83:17, more particularly 70:30 or 20:80, especially 50:50 or 60:40 or 80:20.

[0044] According to a preferred embodiment, the extraction solvent consists of at least one cosmetically acceptable protic polar organic solvent miscible in water and water, in particular the cosmetically acceptable protic polar organic solvent(s) and water being in a water:cosmetically acceptable protic polar organic solvent(s) weight ratio of between 5:95 and 95:5, preferably 10:90 and 90:10, more preferably between 15:85 and 85:15, even better between 17:83 and 83:17, more particularly 70:30 or 20:80, especially 50:50 or 60:40 or 80:20.

[0045] At least one cosmetically acceptable organic solvent, preferably protic polar or aprotic, preferably protic polar, may be present in the extraction solvent at a content of between 5% and 95% by weight relative to the total weight of the extraction solvent, preferably at a content of between 10% and 90% by weight, more preferably between 15% and 85% by weight, even better between 17% and 83% by weight relative to the total weight of the extraction solvent.

[0046] At least one cosmetically acceptable organic solvent, preferably protic polar or aprotic, may be present in the extraction solvent at a concentration of 100% by weight relative to the total weight of the extraction solvent. In this embodiment, the extraction solvent thus does not contain water.

[0047] The extraction temperature of step a) of a process according to the first aspect of the invention is lower than the boiling point of said extraction solvent. The extraction temperature of step a) of a process according to the first aspect of the invention may be between 10°C and 95°C, preferably between 20°C and 95°C, in particular between 40°C and 90°C, in particular between 45°C and 85°C, and is more particularly about 50°C or about 80°C; and / or the duration of step a) may be between 30 seconds and 3 hours, in particular between 1 minute and 2 hours, and more particularly between 90 seconds and 1 hour.

[0048] Step a) of a process according to the invention may be a maceration step, the extraction solvent comprising, in particular, at least one cosmetically acceptable organic solvent, preferably protic polar or aprotic, preferably protic polar, more particularly selected from ethanol, propanediol, and mixtures thereof, and optionally water, in particular consisting of water and at least one cosmetically acceptable organic solvent, preferably protic polar, selected from ethanol, propanediol, and mixtures thereof, in particular in a water:[ethanol and / or propanediol] weight ratio greater than or equal to 20:80, in particular a water:[ethanol and / or propanediol] weight ratio of about 30:70, 40:60, 50:50, 60:40, 70:30 or 80:20; the duration of step a) being between 10 minutes and 5 hours, in particular between 20 minutes and 1 hour; and the extraction temperature being greater than or equal to 40°C, in particular being around 50°C or around 80°C.

[0049] Step a) of a process according to the invention may be an extrusion step, the extraction solvent comprising, in particular, at least one organic solvent cosmetically acceptable, preferably protic polar(s) or aprotic polar(s), more preferably protic polar(s), in particular selected from ethanol, glycerol, propanediol, and mixtures thereof, and optionally water, it being understood that where the extraction solvent includes water, the ratio by weight of water: cosmetically acceptable organic solvent(s) is less than or equal to 1:1, and said cosmetically acceptable organic solvent is miscible with water; in particular step a) can be carried out with a ratio in weight plant biomass of Inula helenium / extraction solvent varying between 1:2 and 1:5, in particular between 1:2.2 and 1:4, more particularly between 1:2.5 and 1:3, said ratio being in particular about 1:2.9; the duration of step a) being in particular less than 5 minutes; and the extraction temperature being between 40°C and 95°C, more preferably between 45°C and 85°C, even more preferably between 50°C and 85°C, and being in particular about 80°C.

[0050] When step a) is an extrusion step, the extraction solvent may consist of at least one cosmetically acceptable organic solvent, preferably polar protic or aprotic, more preferably protic, in particular selected from ethanol, glycerol, propanediol, and mixtures thereof, and optionally water, said extraction solvent preferably being selected from a mixture of water and ethanol, a mixture of water and propanediol, a mixture of water and glycerol, or propanediol, it being understood that when said extraction solvent comprises water, the cosmetically acceptable organic solvent(s) is / are miscible in water and the water:cosmetically acceptable organic solvent(s) weight ratio is preferably between 5:95 and 1:1 such as 20:80, said extraction solvent preferably consisting of a water-propanediol mixture in a weight ratio water:propanediol preferably between 5:95 and 1:1 such as 20:80.

[0051] Step b) of removing plant biomass residues from a process according to the invention may include at least one step b') of settling, optionally of centrifugal settling, the supernatant obtained at the end of the settling step being isolated; and / or at least one step b”) of filtration with at least one filter enabling a filtrate to be obtained, said filter(s) individually having a cut-off threshold between 0.1 micron and 500 microns, in particular several filtration steps sequentially implementing one or more filter(s) in particular having a cut-off threshold individually between 50 microns and 500 microns and / or between 0.1 microns and 25 microns, such as 0.2 micron.

[0052] A process according to the invention may further include a step c), after step b), b') and / or b”), of total or partial removal of the extraction solvent present in the filtrate obtained at the end of step b), b') and / or b”).

[0053] According to another aspect, the present invention relates to a plant extract of huila helenium obtained by a process according to the invention, said extract being in solid or liquid form.

[0054] The present invention also relates to a solid or liquid plant extract of Inula helenium, in particular a plant extract of flowering tops of Inula helenium, characterized in that it comprises: (i) optionally fumaric acid, and / or one of its salts, in particular in a content of between 0.05% and 3.5% by weight relative to the total dry weight of the plant extract; (ii) of chlorogenic acid, and / or one of its salts, in particular in a content of between 1.5% and 4% by weight relative to the total dry weight of the plant extract; (iii) cryptochlorogenic acid, and / or one of its salts, in particular in a content of between 0.25% and 1.5% by weight relative to the total dry weight of the plant extract; (iv) of neochlorogenic acid, and / or one of its salts, in particular in a content of between 0.01% and 0.7% by weight relative to the total dry weight of the plant extract; (v) of 1,5-Dicaffeoylquinic acid, and / or one of its salts, in particular in a content of between 1.5% and 5% by weight relative to the total dry weight of the plant extract; (vi) of isochlorogenic acid B, and / or one of its salts, in particular in a content of between 0.1% and 0.5% by weight relative to the total dry weight of the plant extract; (vii) of isochlorogenic acid A, and / or one of its salts, in particular in a content of between 0.4% and 5% by weight relative to the total dry weight of the plant extract; and (viii) of 4,5-Dicaffeoylquinic acid, and / or one of its salts, in particular in a content of between 0.1% and 6% by weight relative to the total dry weight of the plant extract.

[0055] The Inula helenium plant extract described above may further comprise: (ix) at least one polyphenol, and / or one of its salts, in particular in a content of between 10% and 20% by weight relative to the total dry weight of the plant extract; and / or (x) at least one (poly)amino acid; and / or (xi) at least one (poly)saccharide.

[0056] According to another aspect, the present invention also relates to a composition, in particular a cosmetic one, characterized in that it comprises, in a medium physiologically acceptable, at least one plant extract of huila helenium according to the invention.

[0057] According to another aspect, the present invention also relates to the use of a plant extract according to the invention, or of a composition according to the invention, to prevent and / or treat a skin disorder selected from the group consisting of: of a pigmentary disorder, in particular (i) a pigmented spot, including an actinic lentigo, (ii) post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, in particular related to a scar or an unsightly disorder following an inflammatory skin manifestation, including a scar or acne mark or (iii) melasma.

[0058] According to another aspect, the present invention also relates to a cosmetic treatment method for keratinous material, comprising the application, in particular topically, to said keratinous material of a plant extract according to the invention, or of a composition according to the invention. Detailed description Definitions

[0059] “Inula helenium”, also known as elecampane, is a plant perennial belonging to the Asteraceae family.

[0060] In the context of the present invention, the term "plant biomass" refers to all plant-derived materials after harvesting, in particular the aerial parts of a plant. This biomass can be used fresh, dried, wilted, whole, cut more or less finely, or ground.

[0061] By "dry plant biomass" is meant plant biomass from which the naturally present water has been removed; preferably, the moisture content, i.e. the water content, is between 0% and 10%, preferably less than 5%, even more preferably less than 4%, better still less than 3%, for example less than 2% by weight in relation to the total weight of plant biomass, possibly ground.

[0062] By "fresh plant biomass" is meant plant biomass from which the naturally occurring water has not been removed; it has preferably been harvested a few hours to a few days (up to 15 days) before being brought into contact with the extraction solvent and stored at a compatible temperature and relative humidity that maintains its water content with a maximum variation of ± 2%. Preferably, the fresh plant biomass has a water content greater than 10% by weight relative to the total weight of plant biomass, possibly ground.

[0063] By "withered plant biomass", we mean plant biomass which corresponds to fresh plant biomass stored for one to several days (up to 15 days) before being used in the process according to the invention.

[0064] According to the invention, a "physiologically acceptable medium" is a medium without unpleasant odor or appearance, and which is perfectly compatible with the intended route of administration, particularly topical; that is, one which has a pleasant color and feel and does not generate unacceptable discomfort, such as tingling, tightness, or redness, likely to deter the user from applying the composition. A physiologically acceptable medium is preferably a cosmetically acceptable one.

[0065] According to the invention, "cosmetically acceptable organic solvent" is understood, for the purposes of the present invention, as a solvent comprising carbon atoms, hydrogen atoms, and optionally one or more heteroatoms preferably chosen from oxygen, nitrogen and sulfur atoms, compatible with the route of administration considered, in particular the topical route.

[0066] By "polar organic solvent" is meant a solvent comprising carbon atoms, hydrogen atoms, and one or more heteroatoms preferably chosen from oxygen and nitrogen atoms. In particular, the polar organic solvent(s) are composed of atoms with different electronegativities, the electronegativity difference being between 0.4 and 1.7, forming polarized bonds between them.

[0067] For the purposes of this invention, a "practical polar organic solvent" is defined as a solvent comprising carbon and hydrogen atoms, and one or more heteroatoms preferably selected from oxygen and nitrogen atoms. The solvent comprises atoms in which a hydrogen atom is bonded to a highly electronegative atom (such as oxygen or nitrogen) and is capable of forming hydrogen bonds. This ability to form hydrogen bonds arises from the presence of proton-donating functional groups, primarily hydroxyl (-OH) and amine (-NH2) groups. The polarity of the solvent results from the significant difference in electronegativity between the hydrogen atom and the electronegative atom to which it is bonded, creating a molecular dipole. Thus, a protic polar solvent has the capacity to release acidic H+ ions or to form hydrogen bonds.

[0068] For the purposes of this invention, "polar aprotic organic solvent" means a solvent comprising carbon and hydrogen atoms, and one or more heteroatoms preferably selected from oxygen and nitrogen atoms. However, unlike protic solvents, a polar aprotic solvent does not have a hydrogen atom attached to a highly electronegative atom (such as oxygen in a hydroxyl group -OH or nitrogen in an amine group -NH). Consequently, it cannot donate a proton (H+) to form a hydrogen bond. However, it can accept protons thanks to the presence of lone pairs on the heteroatom, thus participating in hydrogen bonding as an acceptor. The absence of hydroxyl or amine groups is therefore a key element of its definition.

[0069] For the purposes of this invention, "nonpolar organic solvent" means a solvent composed essentially of carbon and hydrogen that has low polarity or no polarity at all. This means that the distribution of the electric charge in the molecule is symmetrical, or nearly symmetrical, resulting in a zero or very low dipole moment.

[0070] By "miscible" is meant the ability of two or more substances to mix and form a homogeneous solution at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure, in other words, miscible substances dissolve into each other in any proportion, without phase separation.

[0071] The term "dry extract" means a plant extract obtained after the removal of the extraction solvent. Preferably, the dry extract comprises less than 10% by weight, preferably less than 5% by weight, preferably less than 3% by weight, preferably less than 1% by weight, preferably less than 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the extract, of extraction solvent. Preferably, the dry extract is free of extraction solvent.

[0072] The terms “dry extract” and “solid extract” are used interchangeably herein.

[0073] By "liquid extract" is meant a plant extract in which the extraction solvent is retained or not completely removed. Preferably, the liquid extract comprises an extraction solvent content exceeding 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the extract.

[0074] For the purposes of this application, a “water:cosmetically acceptable organic solvent(s) weight ratio” refers to the weight ratio of the quantity of water to the total quantity of cosmetically acceptable organic solvent(s) present in the extraction solvent. Accordingly, this ratio is expressed as weight:weight (w:w).

[0075] In the context of the invention, the term "plant biomass of flowering tops of Inula helenium" means an Inula helenium biomass comprising flowering tops of Inula helenium and preferably a biomass consisting of flowering tops of Inula helenium.

[0076] The terms "Inula helenium plant biomass", "Inula helenium biomass", "Inula helenium flowering tops plant biomass" are equivalent within the meaning of the invention.

[0077] In the context of the present invention, an "Inula helenium plant biomass: extraction solvent weight ratio" refers to the mass proportion between The ratio of plant biomass to the amount of extraction solvent used in the extraction step is expressed as a weight-by-weight (w:w) ratio. This ratio can also be expressed as a range of values, for example, from 1:2 to 1:5, meaning that for each unit weight of Inula helenium plant biomass, an amount of extraction solvent ranging from 2 to 5 units weight is used.

[0078] For the purposes of this invention, "keratinous materials" means, in particular, skin, lips, eyelashes, and / or hair, especially skin and / or lips, and preferably body skin, including, among others, skin of the scalp, face, neck, arms and hands.

[0079] By "skin" we mean the entire skin of the body, including the scalp.

[0080] The present invention relates to an implementation of an extract and / or a composition according to the invention on healthy skin.

[0081] “Healthy skin” means, in the context of the present invention, skin that does not does not present any proven pathological condition, such as dermatitis, psoriasis, or an active skin infection. However, the concept of healthy skin includes skin conditions that may present aesthetic or functional imperfections, such as pigmentation spots, scars, or a tendency towards acne.

[0082] Thus, in the cosmetic context of the invention, healthy skin corresponds to skin whose appearance and functions can be optimized without curative medical treatment, but by care intended to improve its aesthetics, comfort and / or overall balance.

[0083] By "Post-inflammatory hyperpigmentations" we mean post-inflammatory hyperpigmentations associated with healing processes, in particular associated with post-lesional healing following, for example, pimples such as acne pimples, irritations, friction, insect bites, but also post-inflammatory hyperpigmentations following skin treatments with electromagnetic devices (such as ultrasound, radiofrequency, laser, pulsed flash lamp), microdermabrasion, chemical peels or cryotherapy.

[0084] The term “actinic lentigo,” “solar lentigo,” “age spot,” or “senile lentigo” refers to a small, flat, pigmented spot that appears on skin chronically exposed to the sun, primarily in people over 40 years of age. It is a benign skin lesion that represents a marker of cutaneous photoaging.

[0085] The term "melasma" refers to a common and benign acquired hyperpigmentation of the skin, characterized by the appearance of symmetrical brown or grey-brown patches on the face. It is sometimes called "mask of pregnancy" or "chloasma".

[0086] In the context of the present invention, the terms "prevent" and "prevention" refer to the reduction, to a lesser extent, of the risk or probability of occurrence of a given phenomenon.

[0087] As used in the present invention, the terms "treat" and "treatment" refer to the alleviation of symptoms associated with a specific disorder or condition and / or the elimination of said symptoms, as well as the complete disappearance of the disorder or condition in question. In the context of the present invention, treatment refers in particular to the treatment of skin disorders, in particular a skin disorder selected from the group consisting of a pigmentary disorder, in particular (i) a pigmented spot, in particular an actinic lentigo, or post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, in particular related to a scar or an unsightly disorder resulting from an inflammatory skin manifestation, in particular a scar or acne mark, or (iii) melasma.

[0088] Melasma is a skin condition characterized by the appearance of hyperpigmented spots, generally symmetrical, on areas exposed to the sun, such as the face, resulting from the localized increase in melanin production.

[0089] Furthermore, the expression "at least one" used in this description is equivalent to the expression "one or more".

[0090] For the purposes of the present invention, and unless otherwise indicated, the boundaries of a range of values ​​are included in that range, in particular in the expressions "between" and "ranging from ... to ...".

[0091] The term "approximately" means, for a numerical value, that numerical value plus or minus a percentage less than 10%, in particular less than or equal to 5%, in particular less than or equal to 2%, more particularly less than or equal to 1%.

[0092] Units, prefixes and symbols are designated in their form accepted by the International System of Units (SI).

[0093] The titles provided in the application are not limitations on the various aspects of disclosure.

[0094] Method for obtaining a plant extract according to the invention

[0095] As previously stated, the present invention relates to methods for obtaining a plant extract from flowering tops of Inula helenium.

[0096] Plant extraction is a solid / liquid separation process used to isolate certain compounds present in plants. It consists of bringing a solid material, such as plant biomass, in this case the flowering tops of Inula helenium, into contact with an extraction solvent. The target compounds dissolve in the solvent, forming a solution which, after decantation and / or filtration, constitutes the desired plant extract.

[0097] These processes thus include a step a) of bringing at least one plant biomass comprising, and in particular consisting of, flowering tops of Inula helenium with an extraction solvent. Plant biomass of Inula helenium

[0098] Plant biomass used in a step a) of a process according to the invention can be obtained from Inula helenium plants grown in their natural habitat or, more particularly, from cultivated plants.

[0099] A plant biomass of Inula helenium according to the invention is a plant biomass comprising, preferably consisting of, flowering tops of Inula helenium.

[0100] It can therefore be aerial parts of varying sizes, containing flowering tops or consisting of flowering tops of Inula helenium.

[0101] The term "flowering tops" refers to the aerial part of the plant harvested from the lowest flower, that is, the flower closest to the ground, up to the uppermost tip of the plant. Flowering tops include flowers, in particular flowers in full bloom, possibly accompanied by flowers in late bloom or in bud, leaves, and stems. In particular, flowering tops do not include the roots or rhizomes of the plant.More specifically, the flowering tops preferably comprise at least flowers, preferably flowers in full bloom, stems and leaves, more specifically comprise or even consist of flowers, especially predominantly flowers in full bloom, leaves, preferably between the different flower stages, and stems, preferably between the different flower stages.

[0102] “Full bloom” means the state of a flower when it has reached its full development maximal. At this stage, its petals are fully unfurled, often revealing internal structures such as the stamens and pistil, and it generally displays its most vibrant colors and shape.

[0103] According to a particular embodiment, the flowering tops of Inula helenium are harvested at the stage of full flowering, preferably between mid-June and mid-July.

[0104] According to a particular embodiment, the flowering tops of Inula helenium are harvested at the stage of full flowering between mid-June and mid-July.

[0105] According to one embodiment, the Inula helenium plant biomass may be fresh, dried, wilted, or a mixture. Preferably, the Inula helenium plant biomass is dried.

[0106] According to one embodiment, the Inula helenium plant biomass used in a process according to the invention is dried within 72 hours of harvesting.

[0107] According to one embodiment, the plant biomass is dried at a drying temperature between 30°C and 60°C. Preferably, the plant biomass is dried at a drying temperature between 30°C and 50°C, or even more preferably, between 30°C and 40°C. Preferably, the drying temperature is about 35°C. The drying time can be from about 24 hours to 1 week, preferably from about 24 hours to about 72 hours. Preferably, the moisture content, i.e., the water content of the biomass after drying, is between 0% and 10%, preferably less than 5%, even more preferably less than 4%, or even better, less than 3%, for example, less than 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the plant biomass.

[0108] A well-known drying method involves using a hot air dryer, in which the plant biomass is exposed to a flow of air at a controlled temperature, allowing the gradual evaporation of water. Another commonly used approach is vacuum drying, which reduces the pressure around the biomass to facilitate the removal of moisture at lower temperatures, thus preserving heat-sensitive compounds. Freeze-drying is also a suitable method, particularly when preserving the structure and bioactive properties of the biomass is desired. This technique involves pre-freezing the biomass, followed by sublimation of the water under vacuum. Another method is to air-dry the biomass on racks.

[0109] According to another embodiment, the plant biomass of Inula helenium used in a process according to the invention, fresh, dried or withered, is ground, optionally cryogrinded.

[0110] A well-known grinding method involves using a mechanical blade mill, also known as a knife mill. This type of mill works by cutting plant biomass into fine particles using rotating blades. Alternatively, a hammer mill can be used. This device fragments the biomass by applying repeated impact force, producing particles of uniform size. Another commonly used approach is attrition grinding, carried out using disc mills, where the biomass is reduced by friction between abrasive surfaces. These methods allow the particle size to be adjusted according to the process requirements.

[0111] Advantageously, cryo-milling is a particularly suitable method for preserving the bioactive properties of heat-sensitive compounds. This technique consists of cooling plant biomass using a cryogenic gas, such as liquid nitrogen, before and / or during grinding. The extreme cooling weakens the plant structures and facilitates their fragmentation into fine particles. while limiting the thermal alteration of volatile or heat-labile compounds. Cryogrinding thus makes it possible to obtain a controlled particle size, while preserving the chemical and biological characteristics of the biomass.

[0112] The grinding can be coarse (on the order of centimeters) or fine (on the order of millimeters). Preferably, the plant biomass of Inula helenium is ground with a particle size between 2 cm and 0.1 mm, preferably between 1 cm and 0.5 mm, more particularly between 4 mm and 1 mm, especially with a particle size of about 2 mm.

[0113] According to one embodiment, the plant biomass of inula helenium is: - dried and ground; or - cryogenically ground.

[0114] According to another embodiment, the plant biomass of Inula helenium is dried and then ground, preferably dried and then ground to obtain a particle size of between 2 cm and 0.1 mm, preferably between 1 cm and 0.5 mm, more particularly between 4 mm and 1 mm, in particular with a particle size of about 2 mm.

[0115] According to another embodiment, the plant biomass of Inula helenium is pre-cut, dried and then ground, preferably pre-cut, dried and then ground until a particle size of between 2 cm and 0.1 mm is obtained, preferably between 1 cm and 0.5 mm, more particularly between 4 mm and 1 mm, in particular with a particle size of about 2 mm.

[0116] According to one embodiment, the plant biomass comprising, in particular consisting of, flowering tops of Inula helenium of step a) of a process according to the invention was dried during a step a') prior to the implementation of step a), at a drying temperature of between 30°C and 60°C for at least 24 hours, in particular between 30°C and 50°C, in particular between 30°C and 40°C, more particularly about 35°C.

[0117] According to one embodiment, the plant biomass comprising, in particular consisting of, flowering tops of Inula helenium from step a) of a process according to the invention was ground during a step a”) prior to the implementation of step a), with a particle size between 2 cm and 0.1 mm, preferably between 1 cm and 0.5 mm, more particularly between 4 mm and 1 mm, in particular with a particle size of about 2 mm.

[0118] More particularly, the plant biomass comprising, in particular consisting of, flowering tops of Inula helenium from step a) of a process according to the invention was: - dried during a step a') prior to the implementation of step a), at a drying temperature between 30°C and 60°C for at least 24 hours, in particularly between 30°C and 50°C, notably between 30°C and 40°C; and, in particular then - was ground during a step a”) prior to the implementation of step a), with a particle size between 2 cm and 0.1 mm, preferably between 1 cm and 0.5 mm, more particularly between 4 mm and 1 mm, in particular with a particle size of about 2 mm.

[0119] Preferably, when step a') and step a”) are implemented, step a' is carried out before step a”).

[0120] As previously stated, step a) of a process according to the invention comprises contacting at least one plant biomass, comprising in particular flowering tops of Inula helenium, with an extraction solvent. Extraction solvent

[0121] A step a) of a process according to the invention is carried out at an extraction temperature lower than the boiling point of the extraction solvent at atmospheric pressure.

[0122] According to one embodiment, the extraction temperature may be greater than or equal to 40°C, it being understood that the extraction temperature must be less than the boiling point of the solvent at atmospheric pressure.

[0123] According to another embodiment, step a) is carried out at an extraction temperature between 10°C and 95°C, preferably between 20°C and 95°C, more preferably between 40°C and 90°C, even better between 45°C and 85°C, and even better between 50°C and 85°C, it being understood that the extraction temperature must be below the boiling point of the solvent at atmospheric pressure. In particular, the extraction temperature may be about 50°C, about 80°C, or about 95°C.

[0124] According to another embodiment, step a) is carried out without heating, i.e. at room temperature, i.e. about 25 °C.

[0125] According to a first embodiment, an extraction solvent of a process according to the invention comprises at least one cosmetically acceptable organic solvent.

[0126] The term “cosmetically acceptable organic solvent” refers to an organic solvent suitable for use, particularly topical, on keratinous materials, especially on the skin, which meets the safety and tolerance requirements in force in the cosmetic field. Such a solvent must be non-irritating, non-sensitizing, and non-toxic under normal conditions of use. Furthermore, the cosmetically acceptable organic solvent must not alter the efficacy or stability of the active ingredients or cosmetic formulations in which it is incorporated.

[0127] According to one embodiment, step a) is carried out with a plant biomass weight ratio, comprising in particular flowering tops of Inula helenium, to extraction solvent varying between 1:2 and 1:100, in particular between 1:2.2 and 1:20, more particularly between 1:2.5 and 1:15. Said ratio may in particular be about 1:10. According to another embodiment, step a) is carried out with a plant biomass weight ratio comprising, in particular, flowering tops of Inula helenium / extraction solvent varying between 1:2 and 1:5, in particular between 1:2.2 and 1:4, more particularly between 1:2.5 and 1:3. Said ratio is more preferably about 1:2.9 or about 1:2.

[0128] A cosmetically acceptable organic solvent used in a process according to the invention can be chosen from aprotic polar organic solvents, protic polar organic solvents, nonpolar organic solvents, and mixtures thereof, it being understood that the solvents must be miscible with each other.

[0129] Among the protic polar organic solvents, we may mention i) polyols and glycols, and more particularly glycerin (glycerol), propanediol, butanediol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, tripropylene glycol, PPG-3 methyl ether, and PPG-2 butyl ether ii) alcohols, and more particularly ethanol, isopropyl alcohol, t-butyl alcohol, phenethyl alcohol, caprylyl glycol, ethylhexylglycerin, and iii) mixtures thereof.

[0130] Thus, said at least one cosmetically acceptable organic solvent may be chosen from the group consisting of protic polar organic solvents, such as ethanol, propanediol, glycerol, butanediol and mixtures thereof; and / or from the group consisting of aprotic polar organic solvents, such as acetone, ethyl acetate, and mixtures thereof.

[0131] According to one embodiment, said at least one cosmetically acceptable organic solvent is chosen from the group consisting of protic polar organic solvents and is preferably chosen from ethanol, propanediol, glycerol, butanediol and mixtures thereof.

[0132] Among the aprotic polar organic solvents, mention may be made of i) esters, and more particularly, triethyl citrate, acetyl tributyl citrate, ethyl acetate, propyl acetate, butyl acetate, amyl acetate, phenethyl benzoate, propylene glycol dibenzoate, Cl2-15 alkyl benzoate, ii) ketones, and more particularly, acetone, iii) carbonates and more particularly, propylene carbonate, iv) amides, and more particularly, ethyl tosylamide, v) dimethyl isosorbide, vi) fatty acids, and more particularly, dilinoleic acid, and vii) mixtures thereof.

[0133] Among the nonpolar organic solvents we can mention i) alkanes, and more particularly undecane, tridecane, C15-C19 alkanes, C9-12 alkanes, isohexadecane, isododecane, isoeicosane and ii) their mixtures.

[0134] Thus, according to another embodiment, said at least one cosmetically acceptable organic solvent is chosen from the group consisting of organic solvents polar aprotic and is preferably chosen from acetone, ethyl acetate, and mixtures thereof.

[0135] According to another embodiment, said at least one cosmetically acceptable organic solvent is chosen from the group consisting of nonpolar organic solvents and is preferably isododecane.

[0136] The aforementioned protic, aprotic and nonpolar polar organic solvents may be used in mixtures, provided that said solvents are miscible with each other.

[0137] According to one embodiment, the cosmetically acceptable polar organic solvent is an aprotic polar organic solvent.

[0138] A suitable aprotic polar organic solvent for the invention is preferably chosen from acetone, ethyl acetate, propyl acetate, butyl acetate, amyl acetate, and mixtures thereof.

[0139] According to one embodiment, the cosmetically acceptable organic solvent(s) is a mixture of at least one protic polar solvent and at least one aprotic polar solvent such as a mixture of acetone with at least one solvent selected from ethanol, glycerol, propanediol, butanediol and mixtures thereof, in particular a mixture of acetone with at least one solvent selected from ethanol, propanediol and mixtures thereof.

[0140] According to a preferred embodiment, the cosmetically acceptable organic solvent is a protic polar organic solvent.

[0141] A suitable protic polar organic solvent for the invention is preferably chosen from ethanol, glycerol, propanediol, butanediol and mixtures thereof, in particular from ethanol, propanediol and mixtures thereof.

[0142] The extraction solvent may comprise, and in particular be made up of, several aprotic polar solvents, preferably comprising and more particularly being made up of acetone.

[0143] According to one embodiment, the extraction solvent comprises at least one cosmetically acceptable organic solvent and optionally water, it being understood that when the extraction solvent comprises water then the aprotic polar organic solvent is miscible with water, in particular an aprotic polar organic solvent, and optionally water, more particularly acetone and optionally water.

[0144] According to one embodiment, the extraction solvent consists of at least one cosmetically acceptable organic solvent and optionally water, it being understood that when the extraction solvent includes water then the aprotic polar organic solvent is miscible with water, in particular an aprotic polar organic solvent, and optionally water, more particularly acetone and optionally water, better is made of acetone.

[0145] According to one embodiment, the extraction solvent comprises at least one cosmetically acceptable organic solvent, in particular a water-miscible aprotic polar organic solvent, and water, more particularly acetone and water.

[0146] The extraction solvent may comprise, and in particular be made up of, several protic polar solvents selected from ethanol, glycerol, propanediol and butanediol, in particular from ethanol and propanediol, said extraction solvent being able to further contain one or more aprotic polar solvents preferably selected from acetone, more preferably, said extraction solvent not containing any aprotic polar solvent.

[0147] Thus, according to one embodiment, an extraction solvent does not comprise a polar aprotic solvent.

[0148] The extraction solvent may comprise, and in particular be made up of, several protic polar solvents selected from ethanol, glycerol, propanediol and butanediol, in particular from ethanol and propanediol.

[0149] According to one embodiment, at least one cosmetically acceptable organic solvent, preferably a protic polar organic solvent, is present in the extraction solvent at a content of 100% by weight relative to the total weight of the extraction solvent.

[0150] Thus, the extraction solvent may consist of ethanol, glycerol, propanediol, or butanediol, more particularly of ethanol or propanediol. In particular, the extraction solvent may consist of propanediol.

[0151] According to another embodiment, the extraction solvent comprises at least one cosmetically acceptable organic solvent, in particular a protic polar organic solvent, and water.

[0152] In the presence of water, at least one cosmetically acceptable organic solvent is miscible in water.

[0153] In particular, the protic polar organic solvent is chosen from ethanol, propanediol, glycerol and mixtures thereof.

[0154] Preferably, the extraction solvent comprises, and in particular consists of, ethanol and water, propanediol and water, or glycerol and water. In one embodiment, the extraction solvent comprises, and in particular consists of, ethanol and water. In another embodiment, the extraction solvent comprises, and in particular consists of, propanediol and water.

[0155] Said at least one cosmetically acceptable organic solvent may be present in the extraction solvent in a content of between 5% and 95% by weight relative to the total weight of the extraction solvent, preferably a content of between 10% and 90% by weight, more preferably between 15% and 85% by weight, even better between 17% and 83% by weight relative to the total weight of the extraction solvent.

[0156] According to one embodiment, when the extraction solvent includes water, the ratio by weight of water:cosmetically acceptable organic solvent(s) is less than or equal to 1:1.

[0157] According to one embodiment, when the extraction solvent includes water, the cosmetically acceptable water:organic solvent(s) weight ratio is between 5:95 and 95:5, preferably between 10:90 and 90:10, more preferably between 15:85 and 85:15, even better between 17:83 and 83:17, and may in particular be 20:80, 70:30, 30:70, 40:60, 50:50, 60:40, 70:30 or 80:20.

[0158] Thus, according to a preferred embodiment, the extraction solvent consists of at least one cosmetically acceptable protic polar organic solvent miscible in water and water, in particular the cosmetically acceptable protic polar organic solvent(s) and water being in a weight ratio of water: cosmetically acceptable protic polar organic solvent(s) between 5:95 and 95:5, preferably 10:90 and 90:10, more preferably between 15:85 and 85:15, even better between 17:83 and 83:17, more particularly 70:30 or 20:80, notably 50:50 or 60:40 or 80:20.

[0159] According to one embodiment, the water:[ethanol and / or propanediol] weight ratio is greater than or equal to 20:80, in particular the water:[ethanol and / or propanediol] weight ratio is about 20:80, 30:70, 40:60, 50:50, 60:40, 70:30 or 80:20.

[0160] According to one embodiment, the extraction solvent consists of water and ethanol in a water:ethanol weight ratio of 70:30 or 60:40. Preferably, the water:ethanol weight ratio is 70:30.

[0161] According to another embodiment, the extraction solvent consists of water and propanediol in a water:propanediol weight ratio preferably between 5:95 and 1:1. In particular, the water:propanediol weight ratio is 20:80, 30:70 or 50:50. Preferably, the water:propanediol weight ratio is 20:80.

[0162] According to a second embodiment, an extraction solvent of a step a) of a process according to the invention consists of water at an extraction temperature between 40°C and 90°C, in particular between 45°C and 85°C, the extraction temperature being more particularly about 50°C.

[0163] According to one embodiment, the extraction time in step a) is between 10 seconds and 5 hours, preferably between 30 seconds and 3 hours, more preferably between 1 minute and 2 hours, and more particularly between 90 seconds and 1 hour. According to one embodiment, the extraction time is less than 5 minutes. According to another embodiment, the extraction time is approximately 1 or 2 hours.

[0164] According to one embodiment, the extraction temperature of step a) is between 10°C and 95°C, preferably 20°C and 95°C, in particular between 40°C and 90°C, in particular between 45°C and 85°C, and is more particularly around 50°C or around 80°C; and / or the duration of step a) is between 30 seconds and 3 hours, in particular between 1 minute and 2 hours, and more particularly between 90 seconds and 1 hour.

[0165] According to one embodiment, step a) of a method according to the invention is carried out: - at an extraction temperature between 40°C and 90°C, in particular between 45°C and 85°C, and more particularly at an extraction temperature of about 50°C; and - for a duration of between 10 seconds and 5 hours.

[0166] According to one embodiment, step a) of a method according to the invention is carried out:

[0167] - at an extraction temperature between 40°C and 90°C, in particular between 45°C and 85°C, and more specifically at an extraction temperature of approximately 50°C or approximately 80°C; and / or

[0168] - for a duration of between 30 seconds and 3 hours, in particular between 1 minute and 2 hours, and more specifically between 90 seconds and 1 hour.

[0169] As previously stated, step a) of a process according to the invention may be an extraction step selected from a maceration step, an extrusion step or a percolation step, and is in particular a maceration step or an extrusion step.

[0170] According to one embodiment, the extraction step is a maceration step.

[0171] According to one embodiment, the maceration step is carried out by an action static action such as microwaves and / or ultrasound, and / or mechanical action such as agitation, and / or grinding, and / or shearing. Preferably, the maceration step is carried out without the use of microwaves or ultrasound. In particular, the maceration step is carried out by agitation without the use of microwaves or ultrasound.

[0172] According to one embodiment, the maceration step is carried out by mechanical agitation using a stirring paddle. The agitation speed is advantageously between 50 and 500 rpm, more preferably between 50 and 300 rpm, and even more preferably between 200 and 300 rpm.

[0173] According to one embodiment, the extraction solvent used during the maceration step comprises, in particular, at least one cosmetically acceptable organic solvent, preferably polar protic(s), chosen from ethanol, propanediol and mixtures thereof, and optionally water.

[0174] According to another embodiment, the extraction solvent used during the maceration step consists of water and at least one cosmetically acceptable organic solvent, preferably polar protic, chosen from ethanol, the propanediol and their mixtures. In particular, the extraction solvent used during the maceration step comprises, in particular consists of, water and ethanol and / or propanediol in a water:[ethanol and / or propanediol] weight ratio greater than or equal to 20:80, in particular a water:[ethanol and / or propanediol] weight ratio of about 30:70, 40:60, 50:50, 60:40, 70:30 or 80:20.

[0175] According to one embodiment, the extraction solvent used during the maceration step consists of water and ethanol in a water:ethanol weight ratio of approximately 70:30 or 60:40. According to another embodiment, the extraction solvent used during the maceration step consists of water and propanediol in a water:propanediol weight ratio of approximately 20:80, 30:70 or 50:50.

[0176] According to one embodiment, the extraction solvent used during the maceration step consists of propanediol.

[0177] According to one embodiment, the duration of the maceration step is between 10 minutes and 5 hours, in particular between 20 minutes and 1 hour. According to another embodiment, the duration of the maceration step is approximately 1 hour or approximately 2 hours.

[0178] According to one embodiment, the maceration step is carried out at an extraction temperature greater than or equal to 40°C, in particular about 50°C or about 80°C.

[0179] According to one embodiment, the maceration step is carried out with a weight ratio of plant biomass comprising, in particular, flowering tops of Inula helenium / extraction solvent varying between 1:2 and 1:100, in particular between 1:2.2 and 1:20, more particularly between 1:2.5 and 1:15.

[0180] Preferably, in an embodiment in which step a) of a process according to the invention is a maceration step, the ratio by weight of plant biomass comprising, preferably consisting of, flowering tops of Inula helenium: extraction solvent can be about 1:10.

[0181] According to a first embodiment, the plant extract of flowering tops of Inula helenium according to the invention is obtained by a process in which: - step a) is a maceration step by mechanical agitation, - the agitation speed being 300 rpm, - the extraction solvent consisting of a mixture of water and ethanol in a water:ethanol weight ratio of approximately 70:30; - the duration of step a) being approximately 1 hour; - the extraction temperature being approximately 50°C; and - the maceration step being carried out with a ratio in weight of plant biomass including, in particular, flowering tops of Inula helenium: extraction solvent of approximately 1:10.

[0182] According to a second embodiment, the plant extract of flowering tops of Inula helenium according to the invention is obtained by a process in which: - step a) is a maceration step by mechanical agitation, - the agitation speed being 300 rpm, - the extraction solvent consisting of a mixture of water and ethanol in a water:ethanol weight ratio of about 70:30; - the duration of step a) being approximately 1 hour; - step a) being carried out without heating; and - the maceration step being carried out with a ratio in weight of Inula helenium plant biomass / extraction solvent of approximately 1:10.

[0183] According to a third embodiment, the plant extract of flowering tops of Inula helenium according to the invention is obtained by a process in which: - step a) is a maceration step by mechanical agitation, - the agitation speed being 300 rpm, - the extraction solvent consisting of a mixture of water and ethanol in a water:ethanol weight ratio of about 60:40; - the duration of step a) being approximately 1 hour; - step a) being carried out without heating; and - the maceration step being carried out with a ratio in weight of Inula helenium plant biomass / extraction solvent of approximately 1:10.

[0184] According to a fourth embodiment, the plant extract of flowering tops of Inula helenium according to the invention is obtained by a process in which: - step a) is a maceration step by mechanical agitation, - the agitation speed being 300 rpm, - the extraction solvent consisting of a mixture of water and ethanol in a water:ethanol weight ratio of about 60:40; - the duration of step a) being approximately 1 hour; - the extraction temperature being approximately 50°C; and - the maceration step being carried out with a ratio in weight of Inula helenium plant biomass / extraction solvent of approximately 1:10.

[0185] According to a fifth embodiment, the plant extract of flowering tops of Inula helenium according to the invention is obtained by a process in which: - step a) is a maceration step by mechanical agitation, - the extraction solvent consists of propanediol; - the duration of step a) being approximately 2 hours; - the extraction temperature being approximately 80°C; and - the maceration step being carried out with a ratio in weight of Inula helenium plant biomass / extraction solvent of approximately 1:10.

[0186] According to a sixth embodiment, the plant extract of flowering tops of Inula helenium according to the invention is obtained by a process in which: - step a) is a maceration step by mechanical agitation, - the extraction solvent consisting of a mixture of water and propanediol in a water:propanediol weight ratio of approximately 20:80; - the duration of step a) being approximately 2 hours; - the extraction temperature being approximately 80°C; and - the maceration step being carried out with a ratio in weight of Inula helenium plant biomass / extraction solvent of approximately 1:10.

[0187] According to a seventh embodiment, the plant extract of flowering tops of Inula helenium according to the invention is obtained by a process in which: - step a) is a maceration step by mechanical agitation, - the extraction solvent consisting of a mixture of water and propanediol in a water:propanediol weight ratio of approximately 30:70; - the duration of step a) being approximately 2 hours; - the extraction temperature being approximately 80°C; and - the maceration step being carried out with a ratio in weight of Inula helenium plant biomass / extraction solvent of approximately 1:10.

[0188] According to an eighth embodiment, the plant extract of flowering tops of Inula helenium according to the invention is obtained by a process in which: - step a) is a maceration step by mechanical agitation, - the extraction solvent consisting of a mixture of water and propanediol in a water:propanediol weight ratio of approximately 50:50; - the duration of step a) being approximately 2 hours; - the extraction temperature being approximately 80°C; and - the maceration step being carried out with a ratio in weight of Inula helenium plant biomass / extraction solvent of approximately 1:10.

[0189] According to a ninth embodiment, the plant extract of flowering tops of Inula helenium according to the invention is obtained by a process in which: - step a) is a maceration step by mechanical agitation, - the extraction solvent consisting of acetone; - the duration of step a) being approximately 1 hour; - the extraction temperature being approximately 25°C; and - the maceration step being carried out with a ratio in weight of Inula helenium plant biomass / extraction solvent of approximately 1:10.

[0190] According to a tenth embodiment, the plant extract of flowering tops of Inula helenium according to the invention is obtained by a process in which: - step a) is a maceration step by mechanical agitation, - the extraction solvent consisting of acetone; - the duration of step a) being approximately 1 hour; - the extraction temperature being approximately 50°C; and - the maceration step being carried out with a ratio in weight of Inula helenium plant biomass / extraction solvent of approximately 1:10.

[0191] According to an eleventh embodiment, the plant extract of flowering tops of Inula helenium according to the invention is obtained by a process in which: - step a) is a maceration step by mechanical agitation, - the extraction solvent consisting of water; - the duration of step a) being approximately 1 hour; - the extraction temperature being 50°C; and - the maceration step being carried out with a ratio in weight of Inula helenium plant biomass / extraction solvent of approximately 1:10.

[0192] According to one embodiment, the extraction step of a process for obtaining a plant extract from flowering tops of Inula helenium according to the invention is an extrusion step.

[0193] Preferably, the extrusion step is carried out using an extruder.

[0194] In particular, the extruder is a co-rotating and co-penetrating twin-screw extruder, such as a Clextral BC21 extruder or any other device that can meet these criteria.

[0195] According to one embodiment, the extrusion step is carried out with a screw rotation speed of between 100 and 500 rpm, preferably between 150 and 450 rpm, more preferably between 200 and 400 rpm, even more preferably between 250 and 400 rpm, and even better between 300 and 400 rpm. In particular, the extrusion step is carried out with a screw rotation speed of approximately 350 rpm.

[0196] The duration of step a) of a process according to the invention, when this step is an extrusion step, preferably lasts less than 5 minutes.

[0197] The extruder is further preferably made up of two screw shafts inserted in sleeves equipped with heating shells allowing temperature regulation and continuous extraction.

[0198] According to one embodiment, the extrusion step is carried out at a temperature between 20°C and 95°C, preferably between 40°C and 95°C, more preferably between 45°C and 85°C, and even more preferably between 50°C and 85°C. In particular, the extrusion step can be carried out at a temperature of about 80°C.

[0199] According to one embodiment, the extraction solvent used during the extrusion step comprises, in particular, at least one organic solvent cosmetically acceptable, preferably protic polar, chosen from ethanol, glycerol, propanediol and mixtures thereof, and optionally water.

[0200] According to another embodiment, the extraction solvent used during the extrusion step consists of water and ethanol, water and propanediol, water and glycerol, or propanediol. Preferably, the extraction solvent used during the extrusion step consists of propanediol or water and propanediol.

[0201] According to one embodiment, when the extraction solvent used during the extrusion step includes water, the cosmetically acceptable organic solvent is miscible with water.

[0202] According to one embodiment, when the extraction solvent used in the extrusion step includes water, the water-to-cosmetically acceptable organic solvent(s) weight ratio is less than or equal to 1:1. In particular, when the extraction solvent used in the extrusion step includes water, the water-to-cosmetically acceptable organic solvent(s) weight ratio is preferably between 5:95 and 1:1. For example, the water-to-cosmetically acceptable organic solvent(s) weight ratio may be approximately 20:80.

[0203] According to one embodiment, the extraction solvent used during the extrusion step consists of water and propanediol in a water:propanediol weight ratio of approximately 20:80. According to another embodiment, the extraction solvent used during the extrusion step consists of propanediol.

[0204] According to one embodiment, the extrusion step is carried out with a weight ratio of Inula helenium plant biomass to extraction solvent varying between 1:2 and 1:5, in particular between 1:2.2 and 1:4, more particularly between 1:2.5 and 1:3. Preferably, the extrusion step is carried out with a weight ratio of Inula helenium plant biomass to extraction solvent of about 1:2 or 1:2.9.

[0205] A spin-drying module is advantageously arranged to integrate filtration grids having a cut-off threshold of approximately 0.8 mm, allowing the recovery of a filtrate containing the active compound(s) of interest.

[0206] The filtrate collected from the dewatering module is then directed to a centrifugal decanter, preferably a LEMITEC type model or any other model with similar characteristics. The liquid obtained after this centrifugal decantation step is then transferred to a filtration system. The filtration system may advantageously consist of one or more plate filters. Preferably, the filtration system is equipped with a two-stage filtration system comprising successively a first filter with a cut-off point of 0.8 µm, and a second filter with a cut-off point of 0.1 µm. The first filter may, for example, be of the KDS15 type. The second filter may, for example, be of the BECO Steril S100 type.

[0207] As previously stated, in an embodiment in which step a) is an extrusion step, the extraction time is preferably less than 5 minutes.

[0208] According to a first embodiment, a plant extract of flowering tops of Inula helenium according to the invention is obtained by a process according to the invention in which: - step a) is an extrusion step, - the rotation speed of the screws being 350 rpm, - the extraction solvent consisting of a mixture of water and propanediol in a water:propanediol weight ratio of about 20:80; - step a) being carried out at an extraction temperature of 80°C; and - the extrusion step being carried out with a weight ratio of inula helenium plant biomass / extraction solvent of approximately 1:2.9.

[0209] According to a second embodiment, a plant extract of flowering tops of Inula helenium according to the invention is obtained by a process according to the invention in which: - step a) is an extrusion step, - the screw rotation speed being 350 rpm, - the extraction solvent consisting of a mixture of water and propanediol in a water:propanediol weight ratio of approximately 20:80; - step a) being carried out at an extraction temperature of 95°C; and - the extrusion step being carried out with a weight ratio of inula helenium plant biomass:extraction solvent of approximately 1:2.9.

[0210] According to a third embodiment, a plant extract of flowering tops of Inula helenium according to the invention is obtained by a process according to the invention in which: - step a) is an extrusion step, - the screw rotation speed being 350 rpm, - the extraction solvent consisting of a mixture of water and propanediol in a water:propanediol weight ratio of approximately 20:80; - step a) being carried out at an extraction temperature of 80°C; and - the extrusion step being carried out with a ratio by weight of plant biomass of inula helenium:extraction solvent of approximately 1:2.

[0211] According to a fourth embodiment, a plant extract of flowering tops of Inula helenium according to the invention is obtained by a process according to the invention in which: - step a) is an extrusion step, - the rotation speed of the screws being 350 rpm, - the extraction solvent consisting of propanediol; - step a) being carried out at an extraction temperature of 80°C; and - the extrusion step being carried out with a weight ratio of Inula helenium plant biomass:extraction solvent of approximately 1:2.9.

[0212] According to a fifth embodiment, a plant extract of flowering tops of Inula helenium according to the invention is obtained by a process according to the invention in which: - step a) is an extrusion step, - the rotation speed of the screws being 350 rpm, - the extraction solvent consisting of water; - step a) being carried out at an extraction temperature between 40°C and 90°C, in particular between 45°C and 85°C, and more particularly around 50°C; and - the extrusion step being carried out with a weight ratio of inula helenium plant biomass:extraction solvent of approximately 1:2.9.

[0213] According to one embodiment, a step in a process according to the invention may be a percolation step. Percolation is a well-known method based on the slow and controlled passage of the extraction solvent through plant biomass, generally arranged in a fixed bed within a suitable container. Percolation allows for the gradual and efficient extraction of compounds of interest by exploiting prolonged contact between the extraction solvent and the plant biomass.

[0214] According to one embodiment, step a) of a method according to the invention is carried out: - at an extraction temperature of 40°C or higher, in particular around 50°C or around 80°C; and - for a period of between 10 minutes and 5 hours, in particular between 20 minutes and 1 hour; particularly when step a) of a process according to the invention is a maceration step, the extraction solvent in particular comprising, and more particularly consisting of: - at least one cosmetically acceptable organic solvent, preferably polar protic, more particularly chosen from ethanol, propanediol, and mixtures thereof, - and optionally water, - in particular consisting of water and at least one cosmetically acceptable organic solvent, preferably protic polar, chosen from ethanol, propanediol, and mixtures thereof, in particular in a water:[ethanol and / or propanediol] weight ratio greater than or equal to 20:80, in particular a water:[ethanol and / or propanediol] weight ratio of about 30:70, 40:60, 50:50, 60:40, 70:30 or 80:20.

[0215] According to one embodiment, step a) of a method according to the invention is carried out: - at an extraction temperature between 40°C and 95°C, more preferably between 45°C and 85°C, even more preferably between 50°C and 85°C, and in particular being around 80°C; and - in particular for a duration of less than 5 minutes; particularly when step a) of a process according to the invention is an extrusion step, the extraction solvent in particular comprising, and more particularly consisting in: at least one cosmetically acceptable organic solvent, preferably protic polar, in particular chosen from ethanol, glycerol, propanediol, and mixtures thereof, and optionally water, it being understood that where the extraction solvent includes water, the ratio by weight of water:cosmetically acceptable organic solvent(s) is less than or equal to 1:1, and said cosmetically acceptable organic solvent is miscible with water; in particular with a plant biomass weight ratio of Inula helenium :extraction solvent varying between 1:2 and 1:5, in particular between 1:2.2 and 1:4, more particularly between 1:2.5 and 1:3, said ratio being in particular about 1:2.9.

[0216] Following extraction step a) as defined above, a crude plant extract of Inula helenium, in particular of flowering tops of Inula helenium, is obtained. The crude plant extract of Inula helenium obtained can then undergo post-extraction processing as defined below.

[0217] As previously indicated, a process according to the invention comprises, in addition to the aforementioned step a), at least one step b) of removing plant biomass residues, in particular by decantation and / or filtration, said step b) being carried out after the extraction step a).

[0218] Step b) of removing plant biomass residues aims to separate the plant biomass, including in particular flowering tops of Inula helenium, from the extraction solvent.

[0219] According to one embodiment, step b) of a process for obtaining a plant extract from flowering tops of inula helenium according to the invention can be a decantation and / or filtration step.

[0220] Decantation relies on the natural sedimentation of solid particles suspended in the liquid. This step can be carried out by simple gravity, by letting the mixture stand in a suitable container for a set period, allowing the residues to settle to the bottom. The clarified liquid can then be recovered by simple decanting or siphoning. To accelerate the process or for suspensions For more complex processes, it is possible to use assisted methods well known to those skilled in the art, such as centrifugation.

[0221] As a complement or alternative, filtration can be used to remove plant biomass residues. This process involves passing the liquid through a filter, such as a sieve, a filter membrane, or a specific fabric, capable of retaining solid particles. Depending on the desired level of fineness, different types of filters can be used, ranging from coarse filters for pre-filtration to fine-porosity membranes for advanced clarification.

[0222] According to one embodiment, step b) of a process for obtaining a plant extract from the flowering tops of Inula helenium according to the invention comprises at least one decantation step b'). This decantation step b' may optionally be a centrifugal decantation step, that is to say, as indicated above, a decantation step comprising a centrifugation step after which the liquid supernatant is recovered. Following the decantation step b', the supernatant obtained can be isolated.

[0223] According to another embodiment, step b) of a process for obtaining a plant extract from flowering tops of inula helenium according to the invention does not include a decantation step b').

[0224] According to one embodiment, step b) of a process for obtaining a plant extract from flowering tops of Inula helenium according to the invention comprises at least one filtration step b”). The filtration step b”) is carried out with at least one filter enabling the production of a filtrate.

[0225] According to one embodiment, the filtration step b”) is carried out with one or more filtration steps sequentially implementing one or more filters. In particular, a filtration step b”) sequentially implements 3 filters, with different cut-off thresholds.

[0226] According to one embodiment, the one or more filter(s) used during at least one filtration step b”) are made of a fabric, such as nylon fabric. According to another embodiment, the one or more filter(s) used during at least one filtration step b”) correspond to one or more cellulose plate filter(s).

[0227] According to one embodiment, several filter(s) are used during at least one filtration step b”), said filters being made up of some of a fabric such as nylon fabric and of others of cellulose plates, the filtration step(s) on fabric filters preceding the filtration step(s) on cellulose plate filter(s).

[0228] According to one embodiment, the one or more filter(s) used during at least one filtration step (b) individually have a cut-off threshold between 0.1 micron and 500 microns. In particular, a method according to the invention comprises several filtration steps b”) sequentially implementing one or more filter(s) in particular with cut-off threshold(s) individually between 50 and 500 microns and / or between 0.1 and 25 microns, such as 0.2 micron.

[0229] According to a particular embodiment, step b”) includes a filtration step with one or more filter(s) having a cut-off threshold less than or equal to 0.2 microns. Preferably, step b”) includes a filtration step with one or more filter(s) having a cut-off threshold less than or equal to 0.2 microns when the extraction solvent comprises water.

[0230] According to another particular embodiment, step b) of a process for obtaining a plant extract from flowering tops of Inula helenium according to the invention comprises one or more steps b”) of filtration.

[0231] According to one embodiment, the filtrate obtained during a first filtration step b”) is centrifuged. According to another embodiment, the filtrate obtained during a first filtration step b”) is centrifuged and pressed, preferably pressed and then centrifuged.

[0232] The supernatant thus isolated can be used in a second filtration step b”). Step b) of a process for obtaining a plant extract from flowering tops of Inula helenium according to the invention can thus comprise 2 filtration steps b”).

[0233] According to one embodiment, the one or more filter(s) used during the first filtration step b”) are made of a fabric, such as a nylon fabric, in particular with a cut-off threshold of 100 microns; and / or the one or more filter(s) used during the second filtration step b”) correspond to one or more cellulose plate filter(s), in particular with a cut-off threshold between 0.2 microns and 10 microns.

[0234] Preferably, the second filtration step b”) is carried out in cascade, with one or more filters, in particular one or more cellulose plate filters, having a decreasing cutoff threshold, the cutoff threshold being sequentially between 10 microns and 0.2 microns. In particular, three cellulose plate filters having a decreasing cutoff threshold, between 10 microns and 0.2 microns, can be used in the second filtration step b”). A sterile liquid plant extract of Inula helenium can thus be obtained.

[0235] According to one embodiment, step b) of a process for obtaining a plant extract from flowering tops of Inula helenium according to the invention comprises one or more step(s) b') of decantation and / or one or more step(s) b") of filtration.

[0236] According to one embodiment, step b) of a process for obtaining a plant extract from flowering tops of Inula helenium according to the invention comprises at least one step b') of decantation and / or at least one step b”) of filtration, in particular comprises at least one step b') of decantation and at least one step b”) of filtration.

[0237] According to one embodiment, when both a settling step b') and one or more filtration step(s) b”) are implemented, the settling step b') is carried out before the filtration step(s) b”).

[0238] According to another embodiment, when step b) of a process for obtaining a plant extract from flowering tops of inula helenium according to the invention comprises a decantation step b') and two filtration steps b”), the decantation step b') is carried out after a first filtration step b”), and before a second filtration step b”).

[0239] Thus, the plant extract of flowering tops of Inula helenium according to the invention can be obtained by a process in which step b) of removing plant biomass residues comprises: - at least one step b') of decantation, optionally of centrifugal decantation, the supernatant obtained at the end of the decantation step being isolated; and / or - at least one step b”) of filtration with at least one filter enabling the obtaining of a filtrate, said filter(s) individually having a cut-off threshold between 0.1 micron and 500 microns, in particular several filtration steps sequentially implementing one or more filter(s) in particular with cut-off threshold(s) individually between 50 and 500 microns and / or between 0.1 and 25 microns, such as 0.2 micron.

[0240] Following step b) of removing plant biomass residues as defined above, a filtrate of Inula helenium, in particular of flowering tops of Inula helenium, is obtained. The Inula helenium plant biomass thus separated from the filtrate is removed.

[0241] Following step b) of elimination of plant biomass residues as defined above, a step c) of total or partial evaporation of the extraction solvent can be carried out.

[0242] If evaporation is total, a dry extract is obtained.

[0243] If there is no evaporation or if this evaporation is partial, a liquid extract is obtained.

[0244] According to one embodiment, the plant extract of flowering tops of inula helenium, obtained by a process according to the invention, further comprises a step c) of total evaporation, preferably under reduced pressure, of the extraction solvent.

[0245] According to one embodiment, the plant extract of flowering tops of inula helenium, obtained by a process according to the invention, is a dry extract.

[0246] According to one embodiment, the dry extract of Inula helenium comprises less than 10% by weight, preferably less than 5% by weight, preferably less than 3% by weight, preferably less than 1% by weight, preferably less than 0.5% by weight per ratio to the total weight of extract, of extraction solvent. Preferably, the dry extract is free of extraction solvent.

[0247] According to one embodiment, when the extraction solvent includes ethanol, a step c) of total evaporation of the solvent is carried out.

[0248] When step c) is a step of total evaporation of the extraction solvent, the dry extract thus obtained may optionally be ground and / or packaged, for example in a glass bottle.

[0249] According to another embodiment, the plant extract of flowering tops of Inula helenium, obtained by a process according to the invention, further comprises a step c) of partial evaporation of the extraction solvent.

[0250] According to one embodiment, the plant extract of flowering tops of Inula helenium, obtained by a process according to the invention, is a liquid extract.

[0251] According to one embodiment, the liquid extract of Inula helenium comprises a content of more than 10% by weight relative to the total weight of extract, of extraction solvent.

[0252] When step c) is a step of partial evaporation of the extraction solvent, the liquid extract thus obtained may optionally be packaged, for example in a glass or plastic bottle.

[0253] According to another embodiment, the plant extract of Inula helenium, in particular of flowering tops of Inula helenium, obtained by a process according to the invention does not include a step c) of total or partial evaporation of the extraction solvent.

[0254] Thus, the Inula helenium flowering tops plant extract according to the invention can be obtained by a process according to the invention further comprising a step (c), after step (b), (b') and / or (b”), of total or partial removal of the residual extraction solvent present in the filtrate obtained at the end of step (b), (b') and / or (b”). Said Inula helenium plant extract obtained by the process according to the invention can be in solid or liquid form. Inula helenium plant extract

[0255] The present invention also relates to a plant extract of Inula helenium obtained by a process according to the invention. This extract may be in solid or liquid form.

[0256] In liquid form, the extract can be obtained directly from the extraction process, after the removal of solid residues according to a previously defined step, and optionally concentrated by total or partial evaporation of the extraction solvent. This form is particularly suitable for applications requiring high solubility or easy incorporation into liquid formulations, such as serums, lotions, or cosmetic emulsions. The liquid extract can also be stabilized, for example by adding cosmetically acceptable preservatives or by adjusting the pH, to ensure its durability and efficacy.

[0257] In solid form, the extract can be obtained by partial or total evaporation of the extraction solvent as described above. Spray-drying or freeze-drying can also be used. These techniques remove residual water or solvent to obtain a powder or granules concentrated in compounds. This solid form offers excellent chemical stability and facilitates storage, transport, and handling of the extract. It is also advantageous for formulations requiring precise dosing or incorporation into powdered or solid products, or for formulations using solvents different from the extraction solvent.

[0258] The present invention also relates to a plant extract comprising, preferably consisting of, flowering tops of Inula helenium, solid or liquid, characterized in that it comprises: (i) optionally fumaric acid, and / or one of its salts, in particular in a content of between 0.05% and 3.5% by weight relative to the total dry weight of the vegetable extract; (ii) of chlorogenic acid, and / or one of its salts, in particular in a content of between 1.5% and 4% by weight relative to the total dry weight of the plant extract; (iii) cryptochlorogenic acid, and / or one of its salts, in particular in a content of between 0.25% and 1.5% by weight relative to the total dry weight of the plant extract; (iv) of neochlorogenic acid, and / or one of its salts, in particular in a content of between 0.01% and 0.7% by weight relative to the total dry weight of the plant extract; (v) of 1,5-Dicaffeoylquinic acid, and / or one of its salts, in particular in a content of between 1.5% and 5% by weight relative to the total dry weight of the plant extract; (vi) of isochlorogenic acid B, and / or one of its salts, in particular in a content of between 0.1% and 0.5% by weight relative to the total dry weight of the plant extract; (vii) of isochlorogenic acid A, and / or one of its salts, in particular in a content of between 0.4% and 5% by weight relative to the total dry weight of the plant extract; and (viii) of 4,5-Dicaffeoylquinic acid, and / or one of its salts, in particular in a content of between 0.1% and 6% by weight relative to the total dry weight of the plant extract.

[0259] Such an extract may also optionally include: (ix) at least one polyphenol, and / or one of its salts, in particular in a content of between 10% and 20% by weight relative to the total dry weight of the plant extract; and / or (x) at least one (poly)amino acid; and / or (xi) at least one (poly)saccharide.

[0260] Such an extract may also include: (xii) optionally at least one sesquiterpene lactone and / or its glycosylated derivatives, more particularly at least allantolactone and / or isoalantolactone and / or dehydrocostus lactone and / or their isomers, and / or their glycosylated derivatives, the total content of sesquiterpene lactone(s) and / or their glycosylated derivatives being in particular less than 1%, more particularly less than 0.1% by weight relative to the total dry weight of the plant extract, in particular less than 100 ppm; and / or (xiii) optionally at least one caffeic acid, and / or one of its salts, the total caffeic acid content being in particular less than 1%, more particularly less than 0.1% by weight relative to the total dry weight of the plant extract, in particular less than 100 ppm; and / or (xiv) optionally at least quercetin, the total quercetin content being in particular less than 1%, more particularly less than 0.1% by weight relative to the total dry weight of the plant extract, in particular less than 100 ppm. Cosmetic composition

[0261] A composition according to the invention is preferably cosmetic, non-therapeutic, optionally dermatological, and comprises at least one plant extract of Inula helenium according to the invention.

[0262] The plant extract of inula helenium according to the invention may be present in the composition at a concentration of between 0.001% and 5% by weight of dry matter of the plant extract, preferably between 0.005% and 2% by weight of dry matter of the plant extract, even better between 0.01% and 1% by weight of dry matter of the plant extract relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0263] In a composition according to the invention, the plant extract of inula helenium according to the invention is contained in a physiologically acceptable medium, that is to say a medium suitable for the administration of a composition by topical route, that is to say compatible with keratinous materials, and more particularly with the skin.

[0264] A composition according to the invention may comprise an aqueous phase and / or an oily phase. Aqueous phase

[0265] An aqueous phase of a composition used according to the invention may comprise water and optionally a water-soluble organic solvent and is preferably monophasic.

[0266] More particularly, said physiologically acceptable medium may comprise water and / or one or more cosmetically acceptable organic solvent(s), in particular one or more protic polar organic solvent(s) miscible with water.

[0267] According to a preferred embodiment, a composition according to the present invention comprises a water content of between 10% and 98% by weight, preferably between 25% and 90% by weight, and more preferably between 35% and 85%, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0268] By "water-soluble organic solvent" according to the present invention, we mean a compound that is liquid at room temperature and miscible with water (miscibility in water greater than 50% by weight at 25°C and atmospheric pressure).

[0269] The water-soluble solvents usable in a composition of the invention may be volatile.

[0270] Among the water-soluble solvents that can be used in a composition according to the invention, particular mention may be made of lower monoalcohols having 1 to 5 carbon atoms such as ethanol and isopropanol, polyols and also alkylene carbonates.

[0271] According to one embodiment, the aqueous phase of a composition according to the invention may comprise at least one C2-C32 polyol.

[0272] For the purposes of this invention, "polyol" means any organic molecule comprising at least two free hydroxyl groups (OH).

[0273] A polyol suitable for the invention may be an alkyl-type compound, with a linear, branched or cyclic hydrocarbon chain, saturated or unsaturated, bearing on the alkyl chain at least two -OH groups. Preferably, a polyol that can be used in the composition according to the invention is a linear alkyl-type compound bearing on the alkyl chain at least two -OH groups, preferably from 2 to 6 hydroxyl groups, more preferably 2 or 3 hydroxyl groups.

[0274] The polyol(s) advantageously suitable for the formulation of cosmetic compositions according to the present invention is / are those having in particular from 2 to 16 carbon atoms, preferably 3 to 10 carbon atoms, more preferably from 3 to 8 carbon atoms.

[0275] The polyol(s) that can be used according to the present invention is / are chosen from linear polyols having 3 to 8 carbon atoms, including, in particular: - diols, such as propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol; and - triols, such as glycerol (glycerin), and their mixtures.

[0276] According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the polyol is chosen from triols such as glycerin.

[0277] The aqueous phase of a composition according to the invention may further comprise any water-soluble or water-dispersible compound compatible with an aqueous phase such as stabilizing agents, gelling agents, film-forming polymers, thickeners, surfactants and mixtures thereof. Fatty phase

[0278] As mentioned previously, a composition according to the invention may comprise at least one fatty phase.

[0279] For the purposes of this invention, the term "fat phase" means all the lipophilic components of a formulation, whether liquid, semi-solid, or solid at room temperature. This includes, in particular, oils, butters, waxes, as well as fatty acids, lipid esters, and other fats used in the formulation of the compositions of the invention.

[0280] In particular, a composition according to the invention may comprise from 5% to 95% by weight, preferably from 10% to 80% by weight of fat phase, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0281] The oily phase of a composition according to the invention may in particular comprise at least one oil, in particular a cosmetic oil. Oils

[0282] By "oil" is meant a non-aqueous compound, immiscible with water, liquid at room temperature (20°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg).

[0283] A fatty phase suitable for the preparation of compositions, particularly cosmetics, according to the invention may include hydrocarbon, silicone, fluorinated or non-fluorinated oils, or mixtures thereof.

[0284] Oils can be volatile or non-volatile.

[0285] For the purposes of the present invention, "hydrocarbon oil" means an oil containing mainly hydrogen and carbon atoms.

[0286] The term “siliconized oil” means an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and in particular at least one Si-O group.

[0287] The term “fluoridated oil” means an oil comprising at least one fluorine atom.

[0288] The oils may optionally include atoms of oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and / or phosphorus, for example, in the form of hydroxyl or acid radicals. Volatile oils

[0289] For the purposes of this invention, "volatile oil" means any oil capable of evaporating upon contact with the skin in less than one hour, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. Volatile oil is a volatile cosmetic compound, liquid at room temperature, having in particular a non-zero vapor pressure, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, in particular having a vapor pressure ranging from 0.13 Pa to 40000 Pa (10³ to 300 mm Hg), in particular ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mm Hg), and more particularly ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mm Hg).

[0290] Volatile oils can be hydrocarbon or silicone-based.

[0291] We can mention in particular among the volatile hydrocarbon oils having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms the C8-Ci6 branched alkanes such as the C8-Ci6 iso-alkanes (also called isoparaffins), isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane and for example the oils sold under the trade names of Isopars or Permetyls, the C8-Ci6 branched esters such as isohexyl neopentanoate, and their mixtures.

[0292] One may also mention volatile linear alkanes comprising 8 to 16 carbon atoms, in particular 10 to 15 carbon atoms, and more particularly 11 to 13 carbon atoms, for example such as n-dodecane (C12) and n-tetradecane (Cl4) sold by Sasol respectively under the references Parafol 12-97 and Parafol 14-97, as well as their mixtures, the undecane-tridecane mixture, the mixtures of n-undecane (Cl1) and n-tridecane (Cl3) obtained in Examples 1 and 2 of application WO 2008 / 155059 of Société Cognis, and their mixtures.

[0293] Examples of volatile silicone oils include linear volatile silicone oils such as hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, tetradecamethylhexasiloxane, hexadecamethylheptasiloxane and dodecamethylpentasiloxane.

[0294] Examples of cyclic siliconized volatile oils include hexamethylcyclotrisiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, cyclohexasiloxane and dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, and in particular cyclohexasiloxane.

[0295] Fluorinated volatile oils, such as nonafluoromethoxybutane, nonafluoromethoxybutane, decafluoropentane, tetradecafluorohexane, dodecafluoropentane and mixtures thereof, may also be used. Non-volatile oils

[0296] By "non-volatile" is meant an oil whose vapor pressure at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure is non-zero and less than 103 mm of Hg (0.13 Pa).

[0297] Non-volatile oils may, in particular, be chosen from hydrocarbon, fluorinated and / or non-volatile silicone oils.

[0298] Examples of non-volatile hydrocarbon oils include: - linear or branched hydrocarbons, of mineral or synthetic origin such as petroleum jelly, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene, such as paream, squalane, and mixtures thereof, - Non-volatile alkanes, preferably with a viscosity of less than 20 mPa.s at 20 °C measured with a Lamy Rheology Rhéomat RM 100® viscometer. "Non-volatile alkane" means a hydrocarbon cosmetic oil, liquid at room temperature, having in particular a vapor pressure at 20 °C of less than 0.01 kPa, according to the definition of a Volatile Organic Compound (VOC) in Article 2 of European Council Directive 1999 / 13 / EC of 11 March 1992: "Any organic compound having a vapor pressure of 0.01 kPa or more at a temperature of 293.15 K". In particular, non-volatile alkanes comprise 10 to 30 carbon atoms, especially 12 to 26 carbon atoms, and more particularly 15 to 19 carbon atoms, and preferably a mixture of alkanes with 15 to 19 carbon atoms, for example the products marketed under the references Emogreen L19 and Emosmart L19 from Seppic, - hydrocarbon oils of vegetable origin, such as glyceride triesters which are generally triesters of fatty acids and glycerol whose fatty acids can have varying chain lengths from 4 to 24 carbon atoms, the latter being linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated; These oils include wheat germ oil, sunflower oil, grapeseed oil, sesame oil, corn oil, apricot kernel oil, castor oil, shea butter, avocado oil, olive oil, soybean oil, sweet almond oil, palm oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, hazelnut oil, macadamia oil, jojoba oil, alfalfa oil, poppy seed oil, pumpkin seed oil, sesame seed oil, squash oil, rapeseed oil, blackcurrant oil, evening primrose oil, millet oil, barley oil, quinoa oil, rye oil, safflower oil, candlenut oil, passionflower oil, rosehip oil; or caprylic / capric acid triglycerides such as those sold by Stéarineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810, 812 and 818 by Dynamit Nobel. - synthetic ethers having 10 to 40 carbon atoms, such as dicapryl ether, - synthetic esters, such as oils with the formula RiCOOR2, in which RI represents a remnant of a linear or branched fatty acid containing 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R2 represents a hydrocarbon chain, in particular, a branched one containing 1 to 40 carbon atoms, provided that Ri + R2 is greater than or equal to 10, such as Purcellin oil (cetostearyl octanoate), isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, alkyl benzoate having between 12 and 15 carbon atoms, such as the product sold under the trade name "Finsolv TN" or "Witconol TN" by Witco or "Tegosoft TN" by Evonik Goldschmidt, 2-ethylphenyl benzoate as the commercial product sold under the name "X-Tend 226" by ISP, isopropyl lanolate, hexyl laurate, diisopropyl adipate, isononyl isononanoate, oleyl erucate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isostearyl isostearate, diisopropyl sebacate as the product sold under the name "Dub Dis" by Stearinerie Dubois, octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or polyalcohols such as propylene glycol dioctanoate; hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, di-isostearyl malate; and esters of pentaerythritol; citrates, such as the C3-C22 tricarboxylic acid and Ci-C6 alcohol ester with the INCI name Tiethyl Citrate, for example that marketed under the name "Citrofol AI Extra" by the Jungbunzlauer company;tartrates such as linear dialkyl tartrates having 12 or 13 carbon atoms, for example those sold under the name Cosmacol ETI by the company Enichem Augusta Industriale, as well as linear dialkyl tartrates having between 14 and 15 carbon atoms, for example those sold under the name Cosmacol ETL by the same company, and acetates; - fatty amides such as Isopropyl N-lauroyl sarcosinate, for example the product sold under the trade name Eldew SL205 from Ajinomoto, - polyol esters and pentaerythritol esters, such as dipentaerythritol tetrahydroxystearate / tetraisostearate, - fatty alcohols that are liquid at room temperature with a branched and / or unsaturated carbon chain having 12 to 26 carbon atoms, such as octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleic alcohol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, - higher C12-C22 fatty acids, such as oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, and mixtures thereof, - carbonates, such as dicaprylyl carbonate, for example the product sold under the name "Cetiol CC" by the company Cognis; - non-phenylated silicone oils, such as caprylyl methycone, and - phenylated silicone oils, such as phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl trimethylsiloxy diphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl methyldiphenyl trisiloxanes, and 2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxysilicates, dimethicones or phenyltrimethicone with a viscosity of 100 cSt or less, trimethylpentaphenyltrisiloxane, and mixtures thereof; as well as mixtures of these different oils. Additional compound(s)

[0299] A composition according to the invention may further comprise one or more additional compound(s). This additional compound(s) are different from an extract according to the invention.

[0300] Of course, a person skilled in the art will take care to choose such additional compound(s) as such that the advantageous properties of an extract according to the invention are not, or substantially not, altered.

[0301] Additional compounds may include, for example, moisturizing agents; depigmenting agents, desquamating agents, anti-wrinkle agents, antioxidants, mattifying agents; healing agents; preservatives such as antibacterial agents; UV filters; emollients; sequestrants; fillers; perfumes; film-forming agents; thickeners; surfactants; coloring materials and mixtures thereof.

[0302] Preferably, a composition according to the invention comprises from 0.01% to 20% by total weight of at least one additional compound, preferably from 0.05% to 15% by weight, and preferably from 0.1% to 10% by weight of at least one additional compound relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0303] A composition according to the invention can be presented in all the galenic forms normally used in the cosmetic field, in particular in the cosmetic field of skin care.

[0304] It may be in particular in the form of an aqueous, hydroalcoholic, or optionally gelled solution; a lotion-type dispersion, possibly two-phase; an oil-in-water or water-in-oil or multiple emulsion; a gel, particularly an aqueous gel; or a dispersion of oils in an aqueous phase, particularly using spherules, these spherules being polymeric particles or, preferably, ionic and / or non-ionic lipid vesicles. In particular, a composition according to the invention may be in the form of a gel, particularly an aqueous gel. It may also be an anhydrous composition.An anhydrous composition is defined as a composition containing less than 10% water by weight, in particular less than 5% water by weight, more specifically less than 2% water by weight, or even less than 0.5% water, and notably free of water, the water not being added during the preparation of the composition but corresponding to the residual water provided by the mixed ingredients. The composition may have a more or less fluid liquid consistency.

[0305] A composition according to the invention is particularly suitable for topical administration.

[0306] Thus, a composition according to the invention may include all the constituents usually employed in the envisaged topical application and administration.

[0307] A composition according to the invention may advantageously be in the form of an emulsion, in particular obtained by dispersing an aqueous phase in an oily phase (W / O) or an oily phase in an aqueous phase (W / O), of liquid or semi-liquid consistency such as milk, or of soft consistency, or even as a multiple emulsion (W / O / O or W / O / O). These compositions are prepared according to known conventional methods.

[0308] More particularly, a composition according to the invention may be intended for topical application and in particular may be in the form of an emulsion, in particular an oil-in-water emulsion. In particular, such an emulsion is not intended to be rinsed off after application.

[0309] A composition according to the invention is more particularly intended to be applied to skin.

[0310] In particular, the skin is the skin of the face, scalp, décolletage, neck, arms or forearms, or more preferably, the skin of the face (in particular the forehead, nose, cheeks, chin), décolletage and neck.

[0311] The composition according to the invention can alternatively have the form of a face and / or body care or makeup product, and be packaged for example as a cream in a jar or as a fluid in a tube or pump bottle or dropper bottle.

[0312] A composition according to the invention can be manufactured by any known process generally used in the cosmetic field.

[0313] The ingredients can be mixed before shaping, in the order and under conditions easily determined by those skilled in the art.

[0314] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, other agents intended to enhance the appearance and / or texture of the skin may also be added to the composition according to the invention.

[0315] In particular, a composition used according to the invention, especially a topical one, is:

[0316] (i) liquid, preferably selected from creams, emulsions, lotions, dispersions, solutions, gels, balms and serums; or

[0317] (ii) solid, preferably selected from masks and sticks.

[0318] It is part of the routine operations of a person skilled in the art to adjust the nature and quantity of cosmetic agents and / or additives present in compositions according to the invention, so that the desired cosmetic properties, comfort of application and stability of these are not affected.

[0319] A composition of the invention can be obtained by any preparation process known to a person skilled in the art. Use and cosmetic treatment process

[0320] The present invention also relates to the use of a plant extract according to the invention or a composition according to the invention for preventing and / or treating a pigmentary disorder. The pigmentary disorder is in particular (i) a pigmented spot, especially an actinic lentigo, or (iii) post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, particularly related to a scar or an unsightly disorder resulting from an inflammatory skin manifestation, especially a scar or acne mark, or (iv) melasma.

[0321] The present invention also relates to a cosmetic treatment method, in particular non-therapeutic, for a keratinous material, comprising at least one step of applying to said keratinous material, a plant extract of Inula helenium according to the invention or a composition according to the invention.

[0322] A skin considered according to the present invention is preferably human skin.

[0323] Keratinous material is preferentially the skin, lips, eyelashes and / or hair, in particular the skin and / or lips, and in particular is (i) the skin of the body, including the skin of the scalp, and / or (ii) the skin of the face, and is more particularly the skin of the face.

[0324] A non-therapeutic cosmetic process of the invention is particularly characterized in that it is intended to prevent and / or treat a pigmentary disorder. The pigmentary disorder is in particular (i) a pigmented spot, especially an actinic lentigo, or (ii) post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, especially a scar or an unsightly disorder resulting from an inflammatory skin condition, especially a scar or acne mark, or (iii) melasma.

[0325] A use and a method according to the invention are preferably implemented by topical route.

[0326] Topical administration consists of the external application to a keratinous material, in particular to the skin, more particularly to the skin of the face, of an extract of Inula helenium according to the invention, or of a cosmetic composition according to the invention, according to the usual techniques of use in this field.

[0327] By way of illustration, the method or use according to the invention can be implemented by topical application, for example daily, of such a plant extract of Inula helenium or of such a composition.

[0328] The application can be repeated for example 1 to 2 times daily over a day or more and generally over a prolonged period of at least 3 days, at least 4 weeks, or even 4 to 15 weeks, with one or more periods of interruption if necessary.

[0329] According to one embodiment, the application is daily (once a day) and generally over a prolonged period of at least 3 days, at least 4 weeks, or even 4 to 15 weeks, with, where appropriate, one or more periods of interruption.

[0330] According to one embodiment, the cosmetic treatment process according to the invention may comprise a single application.

[0331] The following examples illustrate the present invention without limiting its scope. Examples Examples of synthesis

[0332] Example 1: Extract of Inula helenium no. 1 obtained by maceration after total evaporation of the solvents

[0333] In a 2-liter double-jacketed reactor, fitted with a condenser and a 2-arm agitator blade connected to a motor, the following are introduced: - 120 g of dried Inula helenium plant biomass, consisting of dried flowering tops ground on a 2 mm screen, and - 1.2 kg of extraction solvent, consisting of a mixture of water and ethanol, in a water:ethanol weight ratio of 70:30.

[0334] The mixture of dried plant biomass of Inula helenium and extraction solvent The mixture is heated to 50°C using a thermo-cryostat and stirred at 300 rpm for 1 hour. It is then cooled to 20°C and filtered through 100-micron nylon mesh. The resulting filtrate is centrifuged. The supernatant is isolated and then undergoes a series of filtrations through cellulose plate filters with cutoff points ranging from 10 µm to 0.2 µm. The sterile, amber-brown liquid extract is then evaporated to dryness under reduced pressure. A dry extract in the form of a dark brown powder is finally obtained (extract no. 1).

[0335] Example 2: Extract of Inula helenium n°2 obtained by maceration without heating and after total evaporation of the solvents

[0336] In a 2-liter double-jacketed reactor, fitted with a condenser and a 2-arm agitator blade connected to a motor, the following are introduced: - 120 g of dried Inula helenium plant biomass, consisting of dried flowering tops ground on a 2 mm screen, and - 1.2 kg of extraction solvent, consisting of a mixture of water and ethanol, in a water:ethanol weight ratio of 70:30.

[0337] The mixture of dried plant biomass of Inula helenium and extraction solvent is stirred at 300 rpm for 1 hour without heating. The mixture is then filtered through a 100-micron nylon mesh. The resulting filtrate is then centrifuged and the supernatant isolated. The supernatant undergoes a cascade of filtrations through plate filters. cellulose with a cut-off threshold ranging from 10 µm to 0.2 µm. The sterile liquid extract, amber brown in color, is then evaporated to dryness under reduced pressure. A dry extract in the form of a dark brown powder is thus obtained (extract no. 2).

[0338] Example 3: Extract of Inula helenium n°3 obtained by maceration without heating and after total evaporation of the solvents

[0339] In a 2-liter double-jacketed reactor, fitted with a condenser and a 2-arm agitator blade connected to a motor, the following are introduced: - 120 g of dried Inula helenium plant biomass, consisting of dried flowering tops ground on a 2 mm screen, and - 1.2 kg of extraction solvent, consisting of a mixture of water and ethanol, in a water:ethanol weight ratio of 60:40.

[0340] The mixture of dried Inula helenium plant biomass and extraction solvent is stirred at 300 rpm for 1 hour without heating. The mixture is then filtered through a 100-micron nylon mesh. The resulting filtrate is then centrifuged, and the supernatant is isolated. The supernatant undergoes a cascade of filtrations through cellulose plate filters with cut-off points ranging from 10 µm to 0.2 µm. The sterile, amber-brown liquid extract is then evaporated to dryness under reduced pressure. A dry extract in the form of a dark brown powder is thus obtained (extract no. 3).

[0341] Example 4: Extract of Inula helenium no. 4 obtained by maceration after total evaporation of the solvents

[0342] In a 2-liter double-jacketed reactor, fitted with a condenser and a 2-arm agitator blade connected to a motor, the following are introduced: - 120 g of dried Inula helenium plant biomass, consisting of dried flowering tops ground on a 2 mm screen, and - 1.2 kg of extraction solvent, consisting of a mixture of water and ethanol, in a water:ethanol weight ratio of 60:40.

[0343] The mixture of dried Inula helenium plant biomass and extraction solvent is heated to 50°C using a thermo-cryostat and stirred at 300 rpm for 1 hour. The mixture is then cooled to 20°C and filtered through 100-micron nylon mesh. The resulting filtrate is centrifuged. The supernatant is isolated and then undergoes a cascade of filtrations through cellulose plate filters with cut-off sizes ranging from 10 µm to 0.2 µm. The sterile, amber-brown liquid extract is then evaporated to dryness under reduced pressure. A dry extract in the form of a dark brown powder is finally obtained (extract no. 4).

[0344] Example 5: Liquid extract of Inula helenium No. 5 obtained by maceration

[0345] In a 1 litre reactor, fitted with a condenser, are introduced: - 500 g of extraction solvent, consisting of 1,3-propanediol, then - under mechanical stirring with a propeller, 50 g of dried plant biomass of Inula helenium, consisting of flowering tops dried and then ground on a 2 mm screen.

[0346] The mixture of dried Inula helenium plant biomass and extraction solvent is heated to 80°C for 2 hours. The mixture is then cooled to 25°C, filtered through a 100-micron nylon mesh, and pressed. The resulting crude extract is centrifuged. The supernatant, once isolated, undergoes a cascade of filtrations through three cellulose plate filters with cutoff sizes ranging from 10 µm to 0.2 µm. A sterile liquid extract, brown in color, is thus obtained (extract no. 5).

[0347] Example 6: Liquid extract of Inula helenium no. 6 obtained by maceration

[0348] In a 1-liter reactor, fitted with a condenser, the following are introduced: - 500 g of extraction solvent, consisting of a mixture of water and 1,3-propanediol, in a water:1,3-propanediol weight ratio of 20:80, then - under mechanical agitation using a propeller, 50 g of dried plant biomass of Inula helenium, consisting of dried flowering tops then ground on a 2 mm grid.

[0349] The mixture of dried Inula helenium plant biomass and extraction solvent is heated to 80°C for 2 hours. The mixture is then cooled to 25°C, filtered through a 100-micron nylon mesh, and pressed. The resulting crude extract is centrifuged. The supernatant, once isolated, undergoes a cascade of filtrations through three cellulose plate filters with cutoff sizes ranging from 10 µm to 0.2 µm. A sterile liquid extract, brown in color, is thus obtained (extract no. 6).

[0350] Example 7: Liquid extract of Inula helenium No. 7 obtained by maceration

[0351] In a 1-liter reactor, fitted with a condenser, the following are introduced: - 500 g of extraction solvent, consisting of a mixture of water and 1,3-propanediol, in a water:1,3-propanediol weight ratio of 30:70, then - under mechanical agitation using a propeller, 50 g of dried plant biomass of Inula helenium, consisting of dried flowering tops then ground on a 2 mm grid.

[0352] The mixture of dried Inula helenium plant biomass and extraction solvent is heated to 80°C for 2 hours. The mixture is then cooled to 25°C, filtered through a 100-micron nylon mesh, and pressed. The resulting crude extract is centrifuged. The supernatant, once isolated, undergoes a cascade of filtrations through three cellulose plate filters with cutoff sizes ranging from 10 µm to 0.2 µm. A sterile liquid extract, brown in color, is thus obtained (extract no. 7).

[0353] Example 8: Liquid extract of Inula helenium No. 8 obtained by maceration

[0354] In a 1-liter reactor, fitted with a condenser, the following are introduced: - 500 g of extraction solvent, consisting of a mixture of water and 1,3-propanediol, in a water:1,3-propanediol weight ratio of 50:50, then - under mechanical agitation using a propeller, 50 g of dried Inula helenium plant biomass, consisting of dried flowering tops then ground on a 2 mm grid.

[0355] The mixture of dried Inula helenium plant biomass and extraction solvent is heated to 80°C for 2 hours. The mixture is then cooled to 25°C, filtered through a 100-micron nylon mesh, and pressed. The resulting crude extract is centrifuged. The supernatant, once isolated, undergoes a cascade of filtrations through three cellulose plate filters with cutoff sizes ranging from 10 µm to 0.2 µm. A sterile liquid extract, brown in color, is thus obtained (extract no. 8).

[0356] Example 9: _ Characterization of dry extracts of Inula helenium obtained by maceration according to examples 1 to 4

[0357] Dry extracts of Inula helenium No. 1 to 4, obtained according to the processes described in Examples 1 to 4, are analyzed by ultra-high-performance liquid chromatography (UPLC) under the following conditions: Materials: ACQUITY UPLC Waters - Column: ACQUITY BEH Shield RP18 (Waters, 100 x 2.1 mm, 1.8 pm) - Column temperature: 35°C - Eluents: - A: Water + 0.1% formic acid - B: Acetonitrile + 0.1% formic acid - Flow rate: 0.6 mL / min for extract no. 1 and 0.5 mL / min for extracts no. 2 to no. 4 - Injection volume: 2 pL (sample temperature: 10°C) - PDA detection: 190-700 nm

[0358] The extracts are solubilized to 0.5% in a mixture of methanol and water in a methanokeau ratio of 50:50 (v:v).

[0359] [Tables 1] t (minutes) A ​​(%) B (%) 0 99 1 1.1 80 20 5.2 66 34 7.0 0 100 7.5 0 100 7.7 99 1 10 99 1 Starting gradient at injection

[0360] Table 1 describes the elution gradient program used during the UPLC analysis of Example 9.

[0361] Results:

[0362] The chromatograms of the 4 dry extracts of Inula helenium analyzed are similar. The same major compounds are found, namely: - fumaric acid (C4H4O4 M = 115 g / mol), - chlorogenic acid (3-CQA, C16H18O9, M = 354 g / mol), - of isochlorogenic acid A (3,5-Dicaffeoylquinic acid, C25H24O12, M = 516.45 g / mol), - 1,5-Dicaffeoylquinic acid (C25H24O12, M = 516.45 g / mol), and - of 4,5-Dicaffeoylquinic acid (C25H24O12, M = 516.45 g / mol).

[0363] Extract No. 1, obtained according to Example 1 by hydroalcoholic maceration at 30% for 1 hour at 50°C, also comprises, in smaller quantities: - of neochlorogenic acid (5-CQA, C16H18O9, M = 354 g / mol), - cryptochlorogenic acid (4-CQA, C16H18O9, M = 354 g / mol), - 1,3-Dicaffeoylquinic acid, (C25H24O12, M = 516.45 g / mol), and - of isochlorogenic acid B (3,4-Dicaffeoylquinic acid, C25H24O12, M = 516.45 g / mol).

[0364] Extract No. 1, obtained according to Example 1 by hydroalcoholic maceration at 30% for 1 hour at 50°C, comprises, as a percentage of dry extract:

[0365] - 2.48% fumaric acid (C4H4O4 M = 115 g / mol), - 2.36% chlorogenic acid (3-CQA, C16H18O9, M = 354 g / mol), - 1.14% of isochlorogenic acid A (3,5-Dicaffeoylquinic acid, C25H24O12, M = 516.45 g / mol), - 2.30% 1,5-Dicaffeoylquinic acid (C25H24O12, M = 516.45 g / mol), - 4.5% of 4,5-Dicaffeoylquinic acid (C25H24O12, M = 516.45 g / mol). - 0.08% neochlorogenic acid (5-CQA, C16H18O9, M = 354 g / mol), - 0.04% cryptochlorogenic acid (4-CQA, C16H18O9, M = 354 g / mol), - 0.03% of 1,3-Dicaffeoylquinic acid, (C25H24O12, M = 516.45 g / mol), and - 0.13% of isochlorogenic acid B (3,4-Dicaffeoylquinic acid, C25H24O12, M = 516.45 g / mol).

[0366] Example 10: Characterization of liquid extracts of Inula helenium obtained by maceration according to examples 5 to 8

[0367] Dry extracts of huila helenium n°5 to 8, obtained according to the processes described in Examples 5 to 8, are analyzed by ultra-high-performance liquid chromatography (UPLC) under the following conditions: - Equipment: ACQUITY UPLC Waters - Column: Phenomenex (reference Kinetex F5; length of 50 mm; particle diameter of 2.6 pm; internal diameter of 2.1 mm). - Column temperature: 40°C - Eluents: - A: Water MQ + 0.05% formic acid - B: Methanol - Flow rate: 0.5 mL / min - Injection volume: 2 pL (sample temperature: 20°C) - PDA detection: 190 - 800 nm.

[0368] Extracts No. 5, 7 and 8 are diluted 1 / 50 in a mixture of methanol and water in a methanol-water ratio of 50:50 (v:v). Extract No. 6 is diluted 1 / 10 in the same mixture.

[0369] [Tables2] t (minutes) A ​​(%) B (%) 0 95 5 10 0 100 15 0 100 16 95 5 21 95 5 Gradient departure at injection

[0370] Table 2 describes the elution gradient program used during the UPLC analysis of Example 10.

[0371] Results:

[0372] The chromatograms of the 4 liquid extracts of Inula helenium analyzed are similar. The same major compounds are found, namely: - fumaric acid (C4H4O4 M = 115 g / mol), - chlorogenic acid (3-CQA, C16H18O9, M = 354 g / mol), - isochlorogenic acid A (3,5-Dicaffeoylquinic acid, C25H24O12, M = 516.45 g / mol), - 1,5-Dicaffeoylquinic acid (C25H24O12, M = 516.45 g / mol), and - 4,5-Dicaffeoylquinic acid (C25H24O12, M = 516.45 g / mol).

[0373] Example 11: Extrusion process implemented in examples 12 to 15

[0374] The extraction of plant biomass from Inula helenium is carried out using a Clextral BC21 co-rotating and co-penetrating twin-screw extruder. The extruder consists of two screw shafts inserted into barrels equipped with heating shells to regulate the temperature and perform continuous extraction. A dewatering module is positioned with 0.8 mm cutoff threshold filter screens, ensuring the recovery of the filtrate containing the molecules of interest. Solvent injections are carried out in two zones by introduction pump systems. The extraction solvent used is specified in each of Examples 12 to 15. The Inula helenium plant biomass is introduced via a gravimetric dosing system (Coperion K-Tron type) at a flow rate that ensures a defined liquid-to-solid (L:S) ratio. This ratio is specified in each of examples 12 to 15. A screw rotation speed of 350 rpm is applied, with a setpoint temperature specified in each of examples 12 to 15. The filtrate, collected at the spin-drying module, is conveyed to a centrifugal decanter (LEMITEC type). The liquid thus recovered, after centrifugal decantation, is transferred to a filtering system (plate filter type) equipped with a double filtration stage: 0.6 µm KDS15 then 0.1 µm BECO Steril S100. The time spent in the extruder is preferably less than 5 minutes.

[0375] Example 12: Liquid extract of Inula helenium No. 9 obtained by extrusion

[0376] This example reproduces the extrusion procedure detailed in Example 11, including the following parameters: - The ratio of plant biomass of Inula helenium to extraction solvent used is 1:2.9, - the extraction solvent consists of a mixture of water and 1,3-propanediol, in a water:1,3-propanediol weight ratio of 20:80, and - the applied temperature is 80°C. A liquid extract, amber brown in color, is thus obtained (extract no. 9).

[0377] Example 13: Liquid extract of Inula helenium No. 10 obtained by extrusion

[0378] This example reproduces the extrusion procedure detailed in example 11, including the following parameters: - The ratio of plant biomass of Inula helenium to extraction solvent used is 1:2.9, - the extraction solvent consists of a mixture of water and 1,3-propanediol, in a water:1,3-propanediol weight ratio of 20:80, and - the applied temperature is 95°C. A liquid extract, amber brown in color, is thus obtained (extract no. 10).

[0379] Example 14: Liquid extract of Inula helenium No. 11 obtained by extrusion

[0380] This example reproduces the extrusion procedure detailed in example 11, including the following parameters: - The ratio of Inula helenium plant biomass to the extraction solvent used is 1:2, - the extraction solvent consists of a mixture of water and 1,3-propanediol, in a water:1,3-propanediol weight ratio of 20:80, and - the applied temperature is 80°C. A liquid extract, amber brown in color, is thus obtained (extract no. 1 1).

[0381] Example 15: Liquid extract of Inula helenium No. 12 obtained by extrusion

[0382] This example reproduces the extrusion procedure detailed in example 11, including the following parameters: - The ratio of Inula helenium plant biomass to the extraction solvent used is 1:2.9, - the extraction solvent consists of 1,3-propanediol, and - the applied temperature is 80°C. A liquid extract, brown to dark green in color and with a characteristic odor, is thus obtained (extract no. 12).

[0383] Example 16: Characterization of liquid extracts of Inula helenium obtained by extrusion according to examples 12 to 15

[0384] Dry extracts of Inula helenium No. 9 to 12, obtained according to the processes described in Examples 12 to 15, are analyzed by ultra-high-performance liquid chromatography (UPLC) under the following conditions: - Equipment: ACQUITY UPLC Waters - Column: ACQUITY BEH Shield RP 18 (Waters, 100 x 2.1 mm, 1.8 qm) - Column temperature: 40°C - Eluents: - A: Water MQ + 0.1% formic acid - B: Acetonitrile + 0.1% formic acid - Flow rate: 0.5 mL / min - Injection volume: 2 qL (sample temperature: 20°C) - PDA detection: 190-700 nm - Process: 210 - 700 nm.

[0385] Extracts No. 9 to 11 are diluted 1 / 10 in a mixture of methanol and water in a methanol-water ratio of 50:50 (v:v). Extract No. 12 was injected undiluted.

[0386] [Tables3] t (minutes) A ​​(%) B (%) 0 99 1 1.1 0 20 5.2 66 34 7 0 100 7.5 0 100 7.7 99 1 8.5 99 1 Departure of gradient at injection

[0387] Table 3 describes the elution gradient program used during the UPLC analysis of Example 10.

[0388] Results:

[0389] The chromatograms of the 4 liquid extracts of Inula helenium analyzed are similar. The same major compounds are found, namely: - fumaric acid (C4H4O4 M = 115 g / mol), - chlorogenic acid (3-CQA, C16H18O9, M = 354 g / mol), - isochlorogenic acid A (3,5-Dicaffeoylquinic acid, C25H24O12, M = 516.45 g / mol), - 1,5-Dicaffeoylquinic acid (C25H24O12, M = 516.45 g / mol), and - 4,5-Dicaffeoylquinic acid (C25H24O12, M = 516.45 g / mol).

[0390] Extract No. 9, obtained according to Example 12, comprises, as a percentage in the liquid extract reduced to dry matter: - 0.385% fumaric acid (C4H4O4 M = 115 g / mol), - 2.718% chlorogenic acid (3-CQA, C16H18O9, M = 354 g / mol), - 3.487% of isochlorogenic acid A (3,5-Dicaffeoylquinic acid, C25H24O12, M = 516.45 g / mol), - 3.846% 1,5-Dicaffeoylquinic acid (C25H24O12, M = 516.45 g / mol), - 1.795% of 4,5-Dicaffeoylquinic acid (C25H24O12, M = 516.45 g / mol). - 0.205% neochlorogenic acid (5-CQA, C16H18O9, M = 354 g / mol), - 0.154% cryptochlorogenic acid (4-CQA, C16H18O9, M = 354 g / mol), - 0.154% of 1,3-Dicaffeoylquinic acid, (C25H24O12, M = 516.45 g / mol), and - 0.410% of isochlorogenic acid B (3,4-Dicaffeoylquinic acid, C25H24O12, M = 516.45 g / mol). Examples of cosmetic activity

[0391] Example 17: Study of the gene signature of a pro-resolving M2 macrophage obtained by differentiation and polarization of the pro-monocyte line THP-1

[0392] The pro-monocytic cell line THP-1 is cultured in RPMI 1640 medium containing 10% FBS (Eurobio), 1% L-Glutamine-Penicillin-Streptomycin (Gibco) and 0.1% [3-mercaptoethanol (50 mM, Gibco). In order to differentiate monocytes into macrophages, the cells are treated with Phorbol 12-myristate 13-acetate (PMA) (Sigma-Aldrich) at 60 ng / mL for 24 hours, then cultured in PMA-free medium for 24 hours. Macrophages treated with 20 ng / mL of IFN-γ (Peprotech) and 0.1 pg / mL of LPS (sigma-aldrich), or 20 ng / mL of IL-4 (Peprotech) for 24 hours are, respectively, polarized into pro-inflammatory macrophages M1 or pro-resolving macrophages M2. RNA from non-polarized (i.e., untreated) or polarized M1 and M2 macrophages is extracted, and the expression of TNF-α (Tumor necrosis factor alpha), PTGS2 (Prostaglandin-endoperoxide synthase 2), CD209, CD206, and IL-10 (Interleukin 10) (Qiagen) mRNAs is measured by RT-PCR. Each value is corrected for the expression of mRNAs of three housekeeping genes: GADPH (Glyceraldehyde 3-phosphate dehydrogenase), ACTB (Actin beta), and RPL13 (Ribosomal protein L13).

[0393] Results:

[0394] Table 4 shows the Fold-change values ​​of gene expression of macrophages treated with IFN-γ and LPS or IL-4 compared to untreated macrophages. Polarized Ml macrophages, which are pro-inflammatory, express characteristic inflammatory cytokine mRNAs such as TNF-α and PTGS2 more strongly compared to non-polarized (untreated) macrophages, with a fold change greater than 9. Conversely, they under-express the pro-resolvent marker CD206 compared to untreated macrophages. Characteristic markers of pro-resolving polarized M2 macrophages are overexpressed by 1TL-4 treated cells, such as CD209, CD206 and IL-10, cells which also underexpress the inflammatory markers TNF-a and PTGS2 compared to non-polarized macrophages. These results confirm that macrophages derived from the pro-monocyte lineage THP-1 are polarized into pro-inflammatory macrophages M1 after treatment with IFN-γ and LPS, or into pro-resolving macrophages M2 after treatment with IL-4.

[0395] [Tables4] Fold-change * Product PTGS2 TNF-α CD206 CD209 IL-10 IFN-γ and LPS (Ml macrophages) 9.4 9.5 -25.2 0.2 0 IL-4 (M2 macrophages) -5.5 -2.2 9.9 10.9 3.9

[0396] *Fold change values ​​greater than 1.5 indicate overexpression of target gene mRNAs in macrophages treated with IFN-γ and LPS or IL-4, compared to non-polarized (untreated) macrophages. Conversely, negative fold change values ​​from -1.5 onward reflect underexpression of target gene mRNAs in polarized (treated) macrophages compared to untreated macrophages. A fold change between -1.5 and 1.5 indicates that macrophage polarization in M1 or M2 does not significantly affect the expression of the gene of interest mRNA.

[0397] Example 18: Effect of treating non-polarized macrophages with a 0.05 g / L dry extract of Inula Helenium on the expression of specific marker genes of the M1 and M2 profiles

[0398] As described in Example 17, monocytes are differentiated into macrophages. The macrophages are then treated with the dry extract of Inula helenium No. 1 obtained according to Example 1 above (30% hydroalcoholic maceration for 1 h at 50°C) in a DMSO:water mixture (50:50 v:v) at 0.05 g / L for 24 hours.

[0399] RNA from cells is extracted and the expression of TNF-α, PTGS2, CD209, CD206 and IL-10 (Qiagen) mRNAs is measured by RT-PCR.

[0400] Results:

[0401] Table 5 shows the fold-change values ​​of gene expression in macrophages treated with the dry extract <d Inula helenium correspondant à l’exemple 1 par rapport à des macrophages non traités. The dry extract of Inula Helenium according to the invention significantly decreases the expression of the pro-inflammatory genes TNF-a and PTGS2 by macrophages with a fold-change of less than -1.5 compared to untreated macrophages. Furthermore, the dry extract of Inula helenium n°1 increases the expression of pro-resolving markers CD209, CD206 and IL-10 by macrophages with a fold-change greater than 1.5 compared to the untreated control.

[0402] These results demonstrate that Inula helenium in the form of a dry extract according to the invention has pro-resolving effects since it promotes the polarization of macrophages towards a pro-resolving M2 profile at the expense of a pro-inflammatory ML profile

[0403] [Tables5] Fold-change product PTGS2 TNF-α CD206 CD209 IL-10 Dry extract of Inula helenium n° 1 -2.3 -2.9 1.9 2.01 5.1

[0404] Example 19: Effect of treating non-polarized macrophages with a 1 g / L liquid extract of Inula helenium on the expression of specific M1 and M2 profile marker genes

[0405] As described in Example 17, monocytes are differentiated into macrophages. The macrophages are then treated with the liquid extract of Inula helenium No. 9 obtained according to the aforementioned example 12 (Extrusion in mixture 1,3 propanediokeau (weight ratio of 80:20) at 80°C with L:S ratio of 2.9) in DMSO at 1 g / L for 24 hours.

[0406] RNA from the cells is extracted and the expression of CD209 and IL-10 mRNAs (Qiagen) is measured by RT-PCR.

[0407] Results:

[0408] Table 6 shows the Fold-change values ​​of gene expression of macrophages treated with the liquid extract of Inula helenium corresponding to Example 12 compared with untreated macrophages.

[0409] The liquid extract of Inula helenium according to the invention increases in cultured macrophages the expression of pro-resolving markers CD209 and IL-10, characteristic of macrophages polarized towards an M2 profile, with a fold change greater than 1.5 compared to the untreated control.

[0410] These results demonstrate that YInula helenium in liquid extract form according to the invention has pro-resolving effects since it promotes the polarization of macrophages towards an M2 profile.

[0411] [Tableauxô] Fold-change product CD209 IL-10 Liquid extract of Inula helenium n°9 2 3.6

[0412] Example 20: Treatment of a co-culture of dendritic cells and keratinocytes with a dry extract of Inula helenium at 0.01 g / L and measurement of specific lipid mediators of pro-resolution

[0413] The Inula Helenium extract no. 1, obtained according to example 1 (hydroalcoholic maceration at 30% for 1 hour at 50°C) is tested to measure its ability to induce the production of pro-resolving mediators, essential markers of pro-resolution, in a co-culture model of dendritic cells and keratinocytes.

[0414] For this purpose, dendritic cells at the bottom of culture wells are co-cultured with keratinocytes seeded in an insert. The co-culture is incubated for 24 hours with Inula helenium dry extract at 0.01 g / L. The cells are rinsed and then incubated for 1 hour in the presence of an inflammation-inducing cocktail, containing PMA and calcium ionophore. The culture supernatants are recovered and analyzed by LC-MS / MS for 14 pro-resolvent lipid mediators sought in the following three pathways: (i) arachidonic acid (ARA) pathway: lipoxins A4 and B4 (LxA4 and LxB4), (ii) docosahexaenoic acid (DHA) pathway: maresins 1 and 2 (Mar-1, Mar-2), protectins DI and DX (PDI and PDX) and resolvins D1, D2, D4, D4 and D5 (RvD1, RvD2, RvD3, RvD4, RvD5), and (iii) eicosapentaenoic acid (EPA) pathway: resolvins El, E2 and E4 (RvEl, RvE2, RvE4).

[0415] Results:

[0416] Table 7 shows the percentage of activation of the different specialized pro-resolvent mediators (SPMs) quantified in the supernatants of the co-culture of dendritic cells and keratinocytes treated with the dry extract of Inula helenium corresponding to example 1 compared to the untreated condition.

[0417] This analysis shows that the dry extract of Inula helenium according to the invention significantly increases the secretion by co-cultured cells of several pro-resolutive lipid mediators: lipoxin A4, maresin 2, resolvin Dl as well as resolvin E4.

[0418] These results show that the Inula helenium extract according to the invention is not limited to an action on macrophages at the level of the skin by promoting their polarization towards an M2 profile, but also acts on skin cells by stimulating their production of pro-resolving mediators.

[0419] [Tables7] Metabolic pathway ARA DHA EPA SPMs LXA4 Mar 2 RvDl RvE4 % activation 130 92 448 31 p-value 0.001 0.001 0.09 0.001

Claims

Demands

1. A process for obtaining a plant extract from flowering tops of Inula helenium comprising the steps of: a) contacting at least one plant biomass comprising, in particular, flowering tops of Inula helenium with an extraction solvent comprising at least one cosmetically acceptable organic solvent, at an extraction temperature below the boiling point of the extraction solvent at atmospheric pressure, in particular the duration of step a) being between 10 seconds and 5 hours; and b) removing plant biomass residues, in particular by decantation and / or filtration.

2. A process for obtaining a plant extract comprising, in particular, flowering tops of Inula helenium, comprising the steps of: a) contacting at least one plant biomass comprising, in particular, flowering tops of Inula helenium with an extraction solvent consisting of water at an extraction temperature between 40°C and 90°C, in particular between 45°C and 85°C, and more particularly about 50°C; in particular the duration of step a) being between 10 seconds and 5 hours; and b) removing the plant biomass residues, in particular by decantation and / or filtration.

3. A method according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the plant biomass comprising, in particular consisting of, flowering tops of Inula helenium of step a) comprises, and is in particular made up of, flowering tops of Inula helenium harvested at the stage of full flowering, and in particular flowering tops of Inula helenium harvested at the stage of full flowering, dried and / or ground.

4. A method according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the plant biomass comprising, in particular, flowering tops of Inula helenium from step a) is dried in a step a') prior to the implementation of step a), for at least about 24 hours, in particular for about 72 hours, at a drying temperature between 30°C and 60°C, in particular between 30°C and 50°C, more particularly between 30°C and 40°C, especially around 35°C.

5. A method according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the plant biomass comprising, in particular consisting of, flowering tops of Inula helenium from step a) is ground in a step a”) prior to the implementation of step a), with a particle size between 2 cm and 0.1 mm, preferably between 1 cm and 0.5 mm, more particularly between 4 mm and 1 mm, in particular with a particle size of about 2 mm.

6. A method according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein step a) is an extraction step selected from a maceration step, an extrusion step or a percolation step, and is in particular a maceration step or an extrusion step.

7. A method according to any one of claims 1 and 3 to 6, wherein said at least one cosmetically acceptable organic solvent is selected from the group consisting of protic polar organic solvents, such as ethanol, propanediol, glycerol, butanediol and mixtures thereof; and / or from the group consisting of aprotic polar organic solvents, such as acetone, ethyl acetate, and mixtures thereof.

8. A process according to any one of claims 1 and 3 to 7, wherein the extraction solvent further comprises water and the cosmetically acceptable organic solvent is miscible in water, the extraction solvent preferably consisting of at least one cosmetically acceptable organic solvent miscible in water and water, in particular the cosmetically acceptable organic solvent and water being in a water:cosmetically acceptable organic solvent(s) weight ratio of between 5:95 and 95:5, preferably 10:90 and 90:10, more preferably between 15:85 and 85:15, even better between 17:83 and 83:17, more particularly 70:30 or 20:80, in particular 50:50 or 60:40 or 80:

20.

9. A process according to any one of claims 1 and 3 to 8, wherein at least one cosmetically acceptable organic solvent, preferably polar protic or aprotic, more preferably protic, is present in the extraction solvent at a concentration of between 5% and 95% by weight relative to the total weight of the extraction solvent, preferably at a concentration of between 10% and 90% by weight, more preferably between 15% and 85% by weight, even better between 17% and 83% by weight relative to the total weight of the extraction solvent.

10. A process according to any one of claims 1 and 3 to 9, wherein at least one cosmetically acceptable organic solvent, preferably polar protic or aprotic, more preferably protic, is present in the extraction solvent at a content of 100% by weight relative to the total weight of the extraction solvent.

11. A method according to any one of claims 1 and 3 to 10, wherein: - the extraction temperature of step a) is between 10°C and 95°C, preferably between 20°C and 95°C, in particular between 40°C and 90°C, in particular between 45°C and 85°C, and is more particularly about 50°C or about 80°C; and / or - the duration of step a) is between 30 seconds and 3 hours, in particular between 1 minute and 2 hours, and more particularly between 90 seconds and 1 hour.

12. A process according to any one of claims 1 and 3 to 11, wherein: - step a) is a maceration step, - the extraction solvent comprising, in particular, at least one cosmetically acceptable organic solvent, preferably polar protic or aprotic, more preferably protic, more particularly selected from ethanol, propanediol, and mixtures thereof, and optionally water, in particular consisting of water and at least one cosmetically acceptable organic solvent, preferably polar protic or aprotic, more preferably protic, selected from ethanol, propanediol, and mixtures thereof, in particular in a water:[ethanol and / or propanediol] weight ratio greater than or equal to 20:80, in particular a water:[ethanol and / or propanediol] weight ratio of about 30:70, 40:60, 50:50, 60:40, 70:30 or 80:20;- the duration of step a) being between 10 minutes and 5 hours, in particular between 20 minutes and 1 hour; and - the extraction temperature being greater than or equal to 40°C, in particular being around 50°C or around 80°C.

13. A method according to any one of claims 1 and 3 to 11, wherein:

14.

15. - step a) is an extrusion step; - the extraction solvent comprising, in particular consisting of, at least one cosmetically acceptable organic solvent, preferably polar protic or aprotic, more preferably protic, in particular chosen from ethanol, glycerol, propanediol, and mixtures thereof, and optionally water, it being understood that where the extraction solvent comprises water, the ratio by weight of water: cosmetically acceptable organic solvent(s) is less than or equal to 1:1, and said cosmetically acceptable organic solvent is miscible with water; - in particular step a) is carried out with a ratio in weight plant biomass of Inula helenium:extraction solvent varying between 1:2 and 1:5, in particular between 1:2.2 and 1:4, more particularly between 1:2.5 and 1:3, said ratio being in particular about 1:2.9; - the duration of step a) being in particular less than 5 minutes; and - the extraction temperature being between 40°C and 95°C, more preferably between 45°C and 85°C, even more preferably between 50°C and 85°C, and in particular being around 80°C. A process according to claim 13, wherein the extraction solvent consists of at least one cosmetically acceptable organic solvent, preferably polar protic or aprotic, more preferably protic, in particular selected from ethanol, glycerol, propanediol, and mixtures thereof, and optionally water, said extraction solvent preferably being selected from a mixture of water and ethanol, a mixture of water and propanediol, a mixture of water and glycerol, or propanediol, it being understood that when said extraction solvent comprises water, the cosmetically acceptable organic solvent is miscible in water and the water-to-cosmetically acceptable organic solvent ratio is preferably between 5:95 and 1:1 such as 20:80, said extraction solvent preferably consisting of a water-propanediol mixture in a water-to-propanediol ratio preferably between 5:95 and 1:1 such that 20:

80. A method according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein step b) of removing plant biomass residues comprises: - at least one step b') of decantation, optionally of centrifugal decantation, the supernatant obtained at the end of the decantation step being isolated; and / or - at least one step b”) of filtration with at least one filter allowing to obtain a filtrate, the said filter(s) individually having a cut-off threshold between 0.1 micron and 500 microns, in particular several filtration steps sequentially implementing one or more filter(s) in particular with cut-off threshold(s) individually between 50 and 500 microns and / or between 0.1 and 25 microns, such as 0.2 micron.

16. A process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it further comprises a step c), after step b), b') and / or b”), of total or partial removal of the residual extraction solvent present in the filtrate obtained at the end of step b), b') and / or b”).

17. Plant extract of Inula helenium obtained by the process of obtaining according to any one of claims 1 to 16, said extract being in solid or liquid form.

18. Inula helenium plant extract, solid or liquid, in particular a plant extract of flowering tops of Inula helenium, characterized in that it comprises: (i) optionally fumaric acid, and / or one of its salts, in particular in a content of between 0.05% and 3.5% by weight relative to the total dry weight of the plant extract; (ii) chlorogenic acid, and / or one of its salts, in particular in a content of between 1.5% and 4% by weight relative to the total dry weight of the plant extract; (iii) cryptochlorogenic acid, and / or one of its salts, in particular in a content of between 0.25% and 1.5% by weight relative to the total dry weight of the plant extract; (iv) of neochlorogenic acid, and / or one of its salts, in particular in a content of between 0.01% and 0.7% by weight relative to the total dry weight of the plant extract;(v) of 1,5-Dicaffeoylquinic acid, and / or one of its salts, in particular in a content of between 1.5% and 5% by weight relative to the total dry weight of the plant extract; (vi) of isochlorogenic acid B, and / or one of its salts, in particular at a level of between 0.1% and 0.5% by weight relative to the total dry weight of the plant extract; (vii) of isochlorogenic acid A, and / or one of its salts, in particular at a level of between 0.4% and 5% by weight relative to the total dry weight of the plant extract; and (viii) of 4,5-Dicaffeoylquinic acid, and / or one of its salts, in particular at a level of between 0.1% and 6% by weight relative to the total dry weight of the plant extract.

19. Plant extract of Inula helenium according to claim 18, further comprising: (ix) at least one polyphenol, and / or one of its salts, in particular in a content of between 10% and 20% by weight relative to the total dry weight of the plant extract; and / or (x) at least one (poly)amino acid; and / or (xi) at least one (poly)saccharide.

20. Composition, in particular cosmetic, characterized in that it comprises, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one plant extract of Inula helenium as defined in any one of claims 17 to 19.

21. Use of a plant extract as defined in any one of claims 17 to 19, or of a composition according to claim 20, to prevent and / or treat a skin disorder selected from the group consisting of: - a pigmentary disorder, in particular (i) a pigment spot, in particular an actinic lentigo, or (ii) post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, in particular related to a scar or an unsightly disorder resulting from an inflammatory skin manifestation, in particular a scar or acne mark or (iii) melasma.

22. A cosmetic treatment process for keratinous material, comprising the application, in particular topically, to said keratinous material of a plant extract as defined according to any one of claims 17 to 19, or of a composition according to claim 20.