SKINCARE AND / OR MAKE-UP COMPOSITION OF KERATINOUS MATERIALS

Abstract

SKINCARE AND / OR MAKEUP COMPOSITION FOR KERATINOUS MATERIALS The present invention relates to a skincare and / or makeup composition for keratinous materials comprising: (i) polydatin and / or one of its derivatives, (ii) at least 0.5% by weight of at least one amino acid, relative to the total weight of the composition; and (iii) at least one vitamin B3 compound; and (iv) at least one xanthine and / or one of its derivatives. The present invention also relates to a non-therapeutic method for skincare and / or makeup application of keratinous materials. Figure for the abstract: none

Description

Title of the invention: SKINCARE AND / OR MAKE-UP COMPOSITION OF KERATINOUS MATERIALS Technical field

[0001] The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition. In particular, the present invention relates to a skincare and / or makeup composition of keratinous materials. Furthermore, the present invention also relates to a non-therapeutic method for skincare and / or makeup of keratinous materials. CONTEXT OF THE INVENTION

[0002] The ultimate target of the cosmetics sector has always been to deliver products with benefits for the skin such as hydration, moisturizing, anti-aging, whitening, cleansing, and others.

[0003] The formation of free radicals is widely considered to play an important role in the mechanisms of skin aging. Free radicals are highly reactive molecular species with unpaired electrons that can directly damage various cell membranes, lipids, proteins, RNA, and DNA.

[0004] The harmful effects of these free radicals, often present as reactive oxygen species, are induced within tissues and cells during normal metabolism and externally by various oxidative stresses. Exposure to UV radiation and environmental pollution can accelerate skin aging by producing free radicals in the skin.

[0005] Antioxidants protect cells from oxidative stress damage by stifling free radicals and inhibiting oxidation reactions. Topical application of antioxidants is widely used in skincare products to prevent skin aging.

[0006] Polydatin (also known as piceide) is an antioxidant. However, polydatin is not light-stable; therefore, it is desirable to improve the photostability of polydatin in cosmetic products.

[0007] It is also desirable that cosmetic products containing polydatene be transparent.

[0008] It is desired to develop cosmetic compositions comprising polydatin and / or its derivatives, which are transparent and the photostability of polydatin and / or its derivatives is improved. Summary of the invention

[0009] The inventors have now discovered that it is possible to formulate such compositions comprising polydatin and / or its derivatives, which are transparent and the photostability of polydatin and / or its derivatives is improved.

[0010] Consequently, according to a first aspect, the present invention relates to a composition, preferably for skincare and / or makeup, of keratinous materials, comprising the following components: i. of polydatene and / or one of its derivatives, ii. at least 0.5% by weight of at least one amino acid, relative to the weight total composition; and iii. at least one vitamin B3 compound; and iv. xanthine and / or one of its derivatives.

[0011] The inventors have found that with the combination of amino acids, vitamin B3 compounds and xanthine and / or one of their derivatives, the composition according to the present invention is transparent and the photostability of polydatin and / or its derivatives is improved.

[0012] Preferably, the composition of the present invention is used for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials.

[0013] According to a second aspect, the present invention relates to a non-therapeutic method for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials, comprising the application of the composition according to the present invention on the keratinous materials.

[0014] Other subjects and features, aspects and advantages of the present invention will be presented in the following description and, in part, will emerge from the description, or can be learned through practice of the present invention. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0015] Unless otherwise defined, all technical and scientific terms used herein have the same meaning as that commonly understood by a person skilled in the art of the present invention. Where the definition of a term in this description conflicts with the meaning commonly understood by a person skilled in the art of the present invention, the definition described herein shall apply.

[0016] In what follows and unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a range of values ​​are included in that range, in particular in the expressions "between...and..." and "from...to...".

[0017] Furthermore, the expression "at least one" used in this description is equivalent to the expression "one or more".

[0018] Throughout this application, the term "including" shall be interpreted as encompassing all the specifically cited features as well as optional, additional, unspecified features. As used herein, the use of The term "including" also discloses the embodiment in which no features other than those specifically mentioned are present (i.e., * consisting of").

[0019] Unless otherwise stated, all numerical values ​​expressing a quantity of ingredients and the like used in the description and claims should be understood as modified by the term "approximately". Consequently, unless otherwise stated, the numerical values ​​and parameters described herein are approximate values ​​which, where appropriate, may be changed according to the desired purpose.

[0020] As used herein, the expression "keratinous materials" refers to the skin and lips. "Skin" means all the skin of the body, including the scalp. Preferably, the keratinous material is the skin of the face.

[0021] In the present invention, all percentages refer, unless otherwise specified, to a percentage by weight.

[0022] The composition according to the present invention comprises: i. of polydatene and / or one of its derivatives, ii. at least 0.5% by weight of at least one amino acid, relative to the weight total composition; and iii. at least one vitamin B3 compound; and iv. xanthine and / or one of its derivatives. Polydatene and / or its derivatives

[0023] According to the first aspect, the composition of the present invention comprises polydatene and / or a derivative thereof.

[0024] Polydatin includes trans-polydatin and cis-polydatin. Trans-polydatin will isomerize to cis-polydatin.

[0025] Trans-polydatin is a 3,4',5-trihydroxystilbene-3-[3-mono-D glucoside, a stilbenoid which is a trans-resveratrol substituted at position 3 by a [>-D-glucosyl] residue, and has the following structure: OH

[0026] Polydatin has many physiological and pharmacological effects, including anti-inflammatory and antioxidant activities, and can effectively protect against photo-inflammation.

[0027] In particular, polydatin is found in plant and fruit juices at a much higher concentration than other stilbenoids. Polydatin can be isolated from plants, for example, Picea sitchensis or Polygonum cuspidatum (also known as Asian knotweed or Japanese knotweed). In addition, polydatin can be detected in grapes, peanuts, hop cones, red wines, hop pellets, cocoa products, chocolate products, and many everyday foods.

[0028] Polydaten can be obtained in any conventional way, for example it can be commercially available or prepared by extraction from plants by any known process.

[0029] Preferably, polydatin is extracted from parts of the Polygonum cuspidatum plant, and preferably from the root and / or rhizome of Polygonum cuspidatum.

[0030] Polydatin can be obtained in raw material reagents representing an amount from 50% to 99% or more. It is possible to obtain certain isolates and extracts containing pure or essentially pure polydatin.

[0031] Examples of commercial polydaten products include those sold under the name POLYGONUM CUSPIDATUM ROOT EXTRACT by the company GUILIN LAYN NATURAL INGREDIENTS.

[0032] As used here, polydatin derivatives refer to compounds that can be obtained with polydatin as a starting material.

[0033] As a derivative of polydatin, one can cite resveratrol, which can be in a cis form and / or in a trans form, as illustrated below:

[0034] trans-resveratrol cis-resveratrol.

[0035] Resveratrol, in particular trans-resveratrol, is known to have many biological properties, such as antioxidant, anti-inflammatory or antitumor activity.

[0036] Resveratrol can be present in many plants and fruits. In general, resveratrol is found in the following plant families: Vitaceae, Myrtaceae, Dipterocarpaceae, Cyperaceae, Gnetaceae, Fabaceae, Pinaceae, Polygonaceae, Moraceae, Fagaceae, and Liliaceae. In particular, resveratrol is present in grapes, such as red grapes, and products made from these grapes (wine, juice), for example those resulting from the vine species Vitis vinifera; as well as in wild blackberries, raspberries, blackberries or peanuts.

[0037] Resveratrol can be obtained in any conventional way; for example, it may be commercially available or prepared by extraction from plants using any known process. Furthermore, resveratrol can be produced from polydatin (or piceid) via Aspergillus oryzae.

[0038] Resveratrol can be in the form of an isolate or extract of a plant containing resveratrol. Resveratrol can be obtained in raw material reagents comprising an amount ranging from 50% to 99% or even more. It is possible to obtain certain isolates and extracts containing resveratrol that are pure or essentially pure.

[0039] Preferably, the resveratrol according to the present invention is that sold under the trade name Regu-Fade by DSM Nutritional Products, or that sold under the trade name 903268 Biotive Resveratrol min. 99% by Symrise.

[0040] Preferably, polydatin and / or one of its derivatives according to the present invention are chosen from polydatin, resveratrol and one of their combinations.

[0041] Advantageously, polydatin and / or one of its derivatives are present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.01% by weight to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05% by weight to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% by weight to 2% by weight, even more preferably from 0.2% by weight to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Amino acids

[0042] According to the first aspect, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one amino acid.

[0043] As used here, amino acids are simple organic compounds containing both a carboxylic acid group (—COOH) and an amino group (—NH2).

[0044] Preferably, the amino acid is chosen from standard proteinogenic amino acids: alanine, arginine, asparagine, aspartic acid, cysteine, glutamic acid, glutamine, glycine, histidine, isoleucine, leucine, lysine, methionine, phenylalanine, proline, serine, threonine, tryptophan, tyrosine, valine, and one of their combinations.

[0045] More preferably, the amino acid is chosen from serine, threonine, alanine, proline, glycine, glutamic acid, glutamine, and their combinations.

[0046] Even more preferably, the amino acid is chosen from serine, alanine, glutamic acid, glutamine, and their combinations.

[0047] In a most preferred embodiment, the composition of the present invention comprises serine.

[0048] Advantageously, the amino acid is present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.5% by weight to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.8% by weight to 10% by weight, more preferably from 1.2% by weight to 8% by weight, even more preferably from 1.5% by weight to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. (Vitamin B3 compounds)

[0049] According to the first aspect, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one vitamin B3 compound.

[0050] The vitamin B3 compound here includes the compound in the vitamin B3 group as well as its derivatives.

[0051] Vitamin B3, also known as nicotinic acid or niacin, is a compound represented by the following formula:

[0052] Vitamin B3 derivatives that may be cited include, for example, niacinamide, nicotinyl acid, nicotinyl alcohol, nicotinuric acid, nicotinyl hydroxamic acid, nicotinic acid esters such as tocopherol nicotinate, amides derived from niacinamide by substitution of the hydrogen groups of -CONH2, esters of nicotinyl alcohol and carboxylic acids such as acetic acid, salicylic acid, glycolic acid or palmitic acid.

[0053] The following derivatives may also be mentioned: 2-chloronicotinamide, 6-methylnicotinamide, 6-aminonicotinamide, N-methylnicotinamide, N,N-dimethylnicotinamide, N,N-diethylnicotinamide, N-picolylnicotinamide, N-allylnicotinamide, N-(hydroxymethyl)nicotinamide, quinolinenic acid imide, nicotinanilide, N-benzylnicotinamide, N-ethylnicotinamide, nifenazone, nicotinaldehyde, isonicotinic acid, methylisonicotinic acid, thionicotinamide, nialamide, 2-mercaptonicotinic acid, nicomol and niaprazine, methyl nicotinate and sodium nicotinate.

[0054] Other derivatives of vitamin B3 that can also be cited include its inorganic salts, such as chlorides, bromides, iodides or carbonates, and its organic salts, such as salts obtained by reaction with carboxylic acids, such as acetate, salicylate, glycolate, lactate, malate, citrate, mandelate, tartrate, etc.

[0055] Preferably, the vitamin B3 compound is selected from nicotinic acid, niacinamide, nicotinyl alcohol, nicotinuric acid, nicotinyl hydroxamic acid, and their combinations.

[0056] More preferably, the composition according to the present invention comprises niacinamide.

[0057] Most preferably, the vitamin B3 compound is niacinamide.

[0058] Advantageously, the vitamin B3 compound is present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.1% by weight to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.5% by weight to 15% by weight, more preferably from 1% by weight to 10% by weight, more preferably still from 3% by weight to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Xanthine and / or one of its derivatives

[0059] According to the first aspect, the composition of the present invention comprises xanthine and / or one of its derivatives.

[0060] Xanthine and / or one of its derivatives refers to one or more compounds corresponding to formula (I) below,

[0061] wherein Rb R2 and R3 are independently of each other H, alkyl in C6 substituted or unsubstituted, or alkenyl in C6 substituted or unsubstituted, wherein the alkyl or alkenyl may be substituted by one or more substituents selected from hydroxyl, carboxyl, carbonyl, amino (said amino may be substituted by 1 or 2 alkyls in C6) or halogen.

[0062] Xanthine and / or one of its derivatives that may be cited include, for example, xanthine, caffeine, theobromine, theophylline, paraxanthine, diprophylline, uric acid, dyphylline and IBMX (3-isobutyl-I-methylxanthine).

[0063] The following xanthine derivatives can also be mentioned: acefylline, xanthinol nicotinate, diniprophylline, etamiphylline, etophylline, proxyphylline, pentophylline, propentophylline, pyridophylline and bamiphylline.

[0064] Preferably, xanthine and / or one of its derivatives are selected from xanthine, caffeine, theobromine, theophylline, paraxanthine, diprophylline, uric acid, dyphylline, IBMX (3-isobutyl-I-methylxanthine), nicotinate of xanthinol, acefylline, diniprophylline, etamiphylline, etophylline, proxyphylline, pentophylline, propentophylline, pyridophylline, and mixtures thereof, and more preferentially caffeine.

[0065] Preferably, the xanthine and / or one of its derivatives used according to the present invention is caffeine, which can be commercially available from the supplier BASF under the trade name CAFFEINE.

[0066] Advantageously, xanthine and / or one of its derivatives are present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.01% by weight to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.1% by weight to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 0.5% by weight to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Chelating agents

[0067] Preferably, the composition according to the present invention comprises at least one chelating agent.

[0068] More preferably, the chelating agent is chosen from aminocarboxylic acids and their salts.

[0069] The salts include alkali metals, alkaline earth metals, ammonium and substituted ammonium salts.

[0070] Chelating agents may be chosen in particular from compounds bearing the following INCI name:

[0071] diethylenetriaminepentaacetic acid (DTPA),

[0072] ethylenediaminedisuccinic acid (EDDS) et trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate tels que Octaquest E30 de INNOSPEC ACTIVE CHEMICALS,

[0073] ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA),

[0074] ethylenediamine-N,N’-diglutaric acid (EDDG),

[0075] glycinamide-N,N’-disuccinic acid (GADS),

[0076] 2-hydroxypropylenediamine-N,N’-disuccinic acid (HPDDS),

[0077] ethylenediamine-N,N’-bis (ortho-hydroxyphenylacetic acid) (EDDHA),

[0078] N,N’-bis (2-hydroxybenzyl)ethylenediamine-N,N’-diacetic acid (HBED),

[0079] nitrilotriacetic acid (NTA),

[0080] methylglycine diacetic acid (MGDA),

[0081] N-2-hydroxyethyl-N,N-diacetic acid et glyceryl imino diacetic acid (tels que décrits dans les documents EP-A-317 542 et EP-A-399 133),

[0082] iminodiacetic acid-N-2-hydroxypropyl sulfonic acid and aspartic acid N-carboxymethyl N-2-hydroxypropyl-3-sulfonic acid (as described in document EP-A-516 102),

[0083] beta-alanine-N,N'-diacetic acid, aspartic acid-N,N'-diacetic acid and aspartic acid-N- monoacetic acid (described in document EP-A-509 382),

[0084] iminodisuccinic acid (IDSA) based chelating agents (as described in document EP-A-509 382),

[0085] ethanoldiglycine acid, and

[0086] tetrasodium glutamate diacetate (GLDA) such as Dissolvine GL38 or 45S from Akzo Nobel.

[0087] Among the chelating agents mentioned, ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA), diethylenetriaminepentaacetic acid (DTPA), S,S'-ethylenediaminedisuccinic acid (EDDS), trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate, ethylenediaminetetramethylenephosphonic acid (EDTMP) and tetrasodium glutamate diacetate (GLDA), and their combinations, are preferably used.

[0088] Most preferably, the composition according to the present invention comprises trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate.

[0089] Advantageously, the chelating agent is present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.01% by weight to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.05% by weight to 4% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% by weight to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Aqueous phase

[0090] Preferably, the composition of the present invention comprises an aqueous phase.

[0091] Said aqueous phase is preferably present in an amount ranging from 20% by weight to 98% by weight, more preferably from 50% by weight to 95% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0092] Water is preferably present in the composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 20% by weight to 96% by weight, preferably from 50% by weight to 90% by weight, more preferably from 60% by weight to 85% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0093] Preferably, the aqueous phase comprises at least one water-miscible organic solvent at an ambient temperature of 25 °C, such as monoalcohols having 2 to 6 carbon atoms such as ethanol, isopropanol; polyols having 2 to 4 carbon atoms, such as glycerin, propylene glycol, butylene glycol; glycol ethers (having in particular 3 to 16 carbon atoms) such as mono-, di- or tri-propylene glycol(alkyl C11C4) ethers, mono-, di- or tri-ethylene glycol(alkyl C11C4) ethers; and mixtures thereof.

[0094] The organic solvent is preferably present in the composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 2% by weight to 40% by weight, preferably from 3% by weight to 30% by weight, more preferably from 5% by weight to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0095] In some embodiments, the aqueous phase comprises water and a polyol having 2 to 4 carbon atoms, preferably glycerin and / or propanediol.

[0096] In some embodiments, the composition of the present invention comprises 60% by weight to 85% by weight of water and 5% by weight to 20% by weight of a polyol having 2 to 4 carbon atoms, preferably glycerin and / or propanediol, relative to the total weight of the composition. Additional adjuvants or additives

[0097] The composition of the present invention may also contain conventional cosmetic adjuvants or additives, for example preservatives and bactericides, thickeners, surfactants, oils or waxes, pH regulators, and mixtures thereof.

[0098] A person skilled in the art can adjust the quantity of additional adjuvants or additives so as not to have a negative impact on the final use of the composition according to the present invention.

[0099] According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the present invention proposes a composition, preferably for skincare and / or makeup, of keratinous materials comprising, relative to the total weight of the composition: i. 0.2% by weight to 1% by weight of polydatin and / or resveratrol; ii. from 1.5% by weight to 5% by weight of serine; iii. 3% to 8% by weight of niacinamide; and iv. from 0.5% by weight to 5% by weight of caffeine.

[0100] The composition according to the present invention is transparent.

[0101] For the purposes of this invention, "transparent" means a composition with a turbidity value of less than 200 UTN.

[0102] Preferably, the turbidity of the compositions is less than 150 UTN, more preferably less than 100 UTN, more preferably less than 2 UTN.

[0103] Nephelometric turbidity units (NTUs) are the units of measurement for the turbidity of a composition. Turbidity measurement is carried out, for example, with a model 2100AN turbidimeter from the company Hach, the tubes used for the measurement having the reference 2084900. The measurements are carried out at room temperature (from 20 °C to 25 °C). Method and use

[0104] Preferably, the composition of the present invention is used for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials.

[0105] According to the second aspect, the present invention relates to a non-therapeutic method for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials, comprising the application of the composition according to the present invention on the keratinous materials.

[0106] In particular, the keratinous material can be the skin, for example facial skin. EXAMPLES

[0107] The following examples are given by way of non-limiting illustrations of the present invention.

[0108] The main raw materials used, their trade names and suppliers are listed in Table 1.

[0109] [Tables] INCI name Trade name Supplier Polygonum c uspidatum root extract (Polygonum cuspidatu m root extract) Poly gonum cuspidatum root extract GuiLin Layn Natural Ingredients Inventive Example 1 and Comparative Examples 1 to 5

[0110] The compositions of the inventive example (EL) 1 and the comparative examples (EC.) 1 to 5 were prepared based on the quantities given in Table 2. Quantities are given as % by weight of active ingredients relative to the total weight of the composition comprising them. [YES] [Tables 2] ELI EC components. 1 EC. 2 EC. 3 EC. 4 CE. 5 Polygo num cuspidatum root extract 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 Serine (Serine) 2 2 0.1 - 2 2 Niacinamide 5 - 5 - - 5 Caffeine 1 1 1 - - - Glycerin 7 7 7 7 7 7 Ethylenediamine disuccinat e trisodium 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 Propanediol 3 3 3 3 3 3 Water QS100 QS100 QS100 QS100 QS100 QS100

[0112] The composition of inventive example 1 represents a composition according to the present invention.

[0113] The composition of comparative example 1 does not include at least one vitamin B3 compound.

[0114] The composition of comparative example 2 comprises less than 0.5% by weight of at least one amino acid, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0115] The composition of comparative example 3 does not include at least one amino acid, at least one vitamin B3 compound and xanthine and / or one of their derivatives.

[0116] The composition of comparative example 4 does not include at least one compound of vitamin B3 and xanthine and / or one of its derivatives.

[0117] The composition of comparative example 5 does not include xanthine and / or any of its derivatives.

[0118] Preparation process:

[0119] The compositions listed above were prepared as follows: introduction of polygonum cuspidatum root extract, serine where appropriate, niacinamide where appropriate, caffeine where appropriate, glycerin, trisodium ethylenediamine dissuccinate and propanediol into water at 75 °C with stirring to obtain a homogeneous phase, then cooling to room temperature. Composition evaluation

[0120] The appearance of each composition of inventive example 1 and comparative examples 1 to 5 and the photostability of polydaten for each composition of inventive example 1 and comparative examples 1 to 5 were evaluated. Appearance

[0121] Each composition of inventive example 1 and comparative examples 1 to 5 was prepared and held for 10 minutes, then the turbidity of each composition was determined using a Hach model 2100AN turbidimeter, the measurement tubes having reference number 2084900. The measurements were carried out at room temperature (25 °C). Photostability

[0122] The photostability of polydatene was evaluated as follows:

[0123] The composition under test was applied to a polymethyl methacrylate (PMMA) plate (2 mg / cm2), and the plate was then placed in the UVA box. A UVA beam (365 nm) was applied for 20 minutes (10 J / cm2) to the plate, then the plate was removed, and the residual amount of polydatin was determined by high-performance liquid chromatography (HPLC).

[0124] Next, the residual polydatene content for the composition under test was calculated according to the following equation:

[0125] Residual rate = residual quantity / initial quantity *100%.

[0126] The turbidity of the compositions of inventive example 1 and comparative examples 1 to 5 and the polydatin residue rate for the compositions of inventive example 1 and comparative examples 1 to 5 have been summarized in Table 3.

[0127] [Tables3] Properties El. 1 EC. 1 EC. 2 EC. 3 EC.4 EC.5 Turbidity (UTN) 1.08 1.58 1.14 9999 9999 6366 Transparent or not Yes Yes Yes No No No Residual rate (%) 50 10 43 ND ND ND

[0128] ND: not subject to testing.

[0129] It can be seen from Table 3 that with the combination of amino acids, vitamin B3 compounds and xanthine and / or one of its derivatives, the composition is transparent and the photostability of polydatin is improved.

Claims

Demands

1. Composition, preferably for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials, comprising: (i) polydatin and / or one of its derivatives, (ii) at least 0.5% by weight of at least one amino acid, relative to the total weight of the composition; and (iii) at least one vitamin B3 compound; and (iv) xanthine and / or one of its derivatives.

2. Composition according to claim 1, wherein polydatin and / or one of its derivatives is selected from polydatin, resveratrol and one of their combinations.

3. Composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein polydatin and / or one of its derivatives is / are present in an amount from 0.01% by weight to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05% by weight to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% by weight to 2% by weight, even more preferably from 0.2% by weight to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

4. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the amino acid is selected from alanine, arginine, asparagine, aspartic acid, cysteine, glutamic acid, glutamine, glycine, histidine, isoleucine, leucine, lysine, methionine, phenylalanine, proline, serine, threonine, tryptophan, tyrosine, valine, and combinations thereof; preferably from serine, alanine, glutamic acid, glutamine, and combinations thereof.

5. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the amino acid is present in an amount from 0.5% by weight to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.8% by weight to 10% by weight, more preferably from 1.2% by weight to 8% by weight, even more preferably from 1.5% by weight to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

6. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the vitamin B3 compound is selected from nicotinic acid, niacinamide, nicotinyl alcohol, nicotinuric acid, nicotinyl hydroxamic acid, and combinations thereof.

7. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, wherein xanthine and / or one of its derivatives are selected among xanthine, caffeine, theobromine, theophylline, paraxanthine, chlorotheophylline, diprophylline, uric acid, dyphylline, cafaminol, raminophylline, IBMX (3-isobutyl-I-methylxanthine), xanthinol nicotinate, acefylline, diniprophylline, etamiphylline, etophylline, proxyphylline, pentophyllin, propentophyllin, pyridophyllin, bamyphylline and mixtures thereof, and preferably caffeine.

8. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, wherein a chelating agent is selected from aminocarboxylic acids and their salts, preferably selected from diethylenetriaminepentaacetic acid, ethylenediaminedisuccinic acid, trisodium diethylenediamine disuccinate, ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid, ethylenediamine-N,N'-diglutaric acid, glycinamide-N,N'-disuccinic acid, 2-hydroxypropylenediamine-N,N'-disuccinic acid, ethylenediamine-N,N'-bis(orthohydroxyphenylacetic acid), N,N'-bis(2-hydroxybenzyl)ethylenediamine-N,N'-diacetic acid, nitrilotriacetic acid, methylglycinediacetic acid, N-2-hydroxyethyl-N,N-diacetic acid, glycerylliminodiacetic acid, iminodiacetic acid-N-2-hydroxypropylsulfonic acid, aspartic acid N-carboxymethyl acid N-2-hydroxypropyl-3-sulfonic acid, beta-alanine-N-N'-diacetic acid, aspartic-N,N'-diacetic acid,aspartic acid-N-onoacetic acid, chelating agents based on iminodisuccinic acid, ethanoldiglynine, tetrasodium glutamate diacetate, and combinations thereof, preferably the chelating agent is selected from ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid, diethylenetriaminepentaacetic acid, S,S'-ethylenediaminedisuccinic acid, trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate, ethylenediaminetetramethylenephosphonic acid and tetrasodium glutamate diacetate, and combinations thereof, and more preferably the composition comprises trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate, preferably the chelating agent is present in an amount ranging from 0.01% by weight to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.05% by weight to 4% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% by weight to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.,

9. Composition according to claim 1, comprising, in relation to the total weight of the composition:

10. (i) 0.2% by weight to 1% by weight of polydatin and / or resveratrol; (ii) from 1.5% by weight to 5% by weight of serine; (iii) 3% by weight to 8% by weight of niacinamide; and (iv) from 0.5% by weight to 5% by weight of caffeine. Non-therapeutic method for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials, comprising the application of the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9 on keratinous materials.