Composition and method for reshaping keratin fiber
Patent Information
- Authority / Receiving Office
- JP · JP
- Patent Type
- Applications
- Current Assignee / Owner
- LOREAL SA
- Filing Date
- 2023-04-14
- Publication Date
- 2026-04-22
AI Technical Summary
Existing techniques for reshaping keratin fibers, such as hair straightening and curling, involve high pH conditions that can damage the fibers and emit unpleasant odors, and require multiple steps with reducing and oxidizing agents, leading to incomplete reshaping and degradation of keratin.
A composition comprising aliphatic monoamines, diamines, polyamines, cyclic amines, hydroxylamines, and specific amino-functional organic compounds is used at moderate pH (7.5 to 12.0) to reshape keratin fibers in a single step, avoiding reducing and oxidizing agents.
The method achieves effective reshaping with reduced fiber damage, minimal odor, and shorter processing times, maintaining the integrity and manageability of keratin fibers.
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Abstract
Description
[Technical field]
[0001] The present invention relates to the reshaping of keratinous fibres such as hair. [Background technology]
[0002] Two techniques have been used to reshape, preferably permanently, keratin fibres such as hair, which are based on the cleavage of the covalent disulfide bonds (cystine) present in the keratin fibres.
[0003] The first technique comprises, in a first step, carrying out the cleavage of this disulfide bond using a composition containing a reducing agent, and then, after preferably rinsing the hair, in a second step, reconstituting said disulfide bonds by applying an oxidizing composition, also known as a fixer, to hair that has previously been placed under tension, such as with rollers, or shaped or straightened by other means, so as to give the hair the desired shape. This technique makes it possible either to make the hair wavy, or to straighten, remove curls or straighten frizzy hair.
[0004] The second technique involves carrying out a "lanthionization" procedure using a composition containing a base belonging to the hydroxide family. This leads to the replacement of disulfide bonds (-CH2-SS-CH2-) with lanthionine bonds (-CH2-S-CH2-). This lanthionization procedure requires two sequential chemical reactions.
[0005] The first reaction consists of beta-elimination on cystine brought about by hydroxide ion, leading to the cleavage of this bond and the formation of dehydroalanine.
[0006] [ka]
[0007] The second reaction is the reaction of dehydroalanine with a thiol group. Specifically, the double bond of the dehydroalanine formed is a reactive double bond that can react with the thiol group of the released cysteine residue to form a new bond called a lanthionine bridge or bond or residue.
[0008] [ka]
[0009] Compared to the first technique using a reducing agent, this lanthionization technique does not require a fixing step, since the cleavage of cystine and the formation of lanthionine bridges proceeds in only one step and irreversibly. Therefore, it is carried out in a single step and makes it possible to either make hair wavy or to straighten, uncurl or straighten curly hair. However, it is mainly used to straighten naturally curly hair.
[0010] In the case of the first technique, the reducing agent compositions generally used in the first step of the operation of permanent waving or straightening of curly hair contain thiols, sulfites or bisulfites as reducing agents. Among the thiols, those generally used are thioglycolic acid, cysteamine, glyceryl monothioglycolate, thiolactic acid, butyrolactone thiol and cysteine. Thioglycolic acid, especially in the form of ammonium thioglycolate, is particularly efficient in reducing the disulfide bonds of keratin at alkaline pH, and it constitutes the product most frequently used in permanent waving ("hair waving"). However, thiols emit an unpleasant odor. Apart from the drawback of emitting an unpleasant odor and having to use some effective perfumes to counteract the odor, the use of thiols at alkaline pH also leads to the degradation of keratin fibers, most particularly the impairment of artificial coloring. To straighten curly hair, sulfites or bisulfites are mainly used. They have the same drawbacks as thiols. The use of a fixing step consisting mainly of hydrogen peroxide or sodium bromate can also lead to further damage to the hair by peroxidizing the cleaved disulfide bonds. The resulting generation of cysteic acid moieties limits the complete restoration of disulfide bonds when forming new hair shapes.
[0011] In the second technique, the compositions generally used to carry out lanthionization contain hydroxides as bases, such as sodium hydroxide, guanidine hydroxide or lithium hydroxide. Sodium hydroxide remains the most frequently used agent. Currently, guanidine hydroxide is the preferred compound for many compositions. These two hydroxides, namely sodium hydroxide and guanidine hydroxide, are the two main agents used to straighten or remove curls from naturally curly hair. They have several advantages over ammonium thioglycolate and sulfites, in particular the fact that they are free of unpleasant odors, require only one operation step (shorter processing time), and are very durable and efficient in reshaping hair. [Prior art documents] [Patent documents]
[0012] [Patent Document 1] European Patent Application No. 0354835 [Patent Document 2] European Patent Application No. 0368763 [Patent Document 3] European Patent Application No. 0432000 [Patent Document 4] European Patent Application No. 0514282 [Patent Document 5] French Patent Application No. 2679448 Summary of the Invention [Problem to be solved by the invention]
[0013] The second technique is to detect a large number of hydroxyl ions (OH - ) requires a very high pH (12-14). At a pH below 12, it is difficult to generate a large number of hydroxyl ions from hydroxides such as sodium hydroxide (pKa=15.7), and the lifespan of the hydroxyl ions can be very short. Therefore, the reaction in the depths of the hair can be limited, which may reduce the reshaping performance.
[0014] On the other hand, if the second technique is carried out at a very high pH, the above drawbacks may be overcome, however a very high pH is not favourable for keratin fibres as it tends to attack and destroy them.
[0015] The object of the present invention is to provide a novel technique that allows reshaping keratinous fibers, such as hair, in one step, even under moderately high pH conditions, with acceptable keratinous fiber reshaping efficiency. [Means for solving the problem]
[0016] The object of the present invention is to provide a composition for reshaping keratinous fibers, such as hair, comprising: (a) (a-1) Aliphatic monoamines and their salts, (a-2) aliphatic diamines and their salts, (a-3) aliphatic polyamines and their salts, (a-4) cyclic amines and salts thereof, (a-5) Hydroxylamines and their salts other than monoethanolamine, and (a-6) A compound selected from the group consisting of amino acid esters, ureas, guanidines, amides, salts thereof, and mixtures thereof. At least one amino-functional organic compound selected from the group consisting of: (b) an alkylaminosulfonic acid and a compound of formula (I) and (II):
[0017] [ka]
[0018] [In the formulas (I) and (II), R represents a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched, preferably linear, C1-C5 alkyl group, said alkyl group being selected from the group consisting of a hydroxyl group, an amino group, a carboxamide group, a C6-C 18 Aromatic group, heterocyclic group, -C(O)-OH, -S(O)2-OH, -C(O)-O - M + , -S(O)2-O - M + and mixtures thereof; + represents a cationic counterion such as an alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, or ammonium; - n is 0 or 1 and at least one compound other than component (a), selected from the compounds Including, This can be achieved by a composition having a pH of from 7.5 to less than 12.0, preferably from 8.0 to 11.5, and more preferably from 8.5 to 11.0.
[0019] (a-1) The aliphatic monoamine may be selected from the group consisting of methylamine, dimethylamine, trimethylamine, ethylamine, trimethylamine, propylamine, butylamine, isobutylamine, tert-butylamine, salts thereof, and mixtures thereof.
[0020] (a-2) The aliphatic diamine may be selected from the group consisting of ethylenediamine, 1,3-diaminopropane, 1,4-diaminobutane, 1,6-diaminohexane, 2,2-dimethyl-1,3-propanediamine, salts thereof, and mixtures thereof.
[0021] (a-3) The aliphatic polyamine may be selected from the group consisting of spermidine, N,N'-bis(3-aminopropyl)-1,4-butanediamine, diethylenetriamine, 3,3-diaminodipropylamine, tris(2-aminoethyl)amine, salts thereof, and mixtures thereof.
[0022] (a-4) The cyclic amine may be selected from the group consisting of cyclohexylamine, piperidine, aniline, pyridine, 4-aminopyridine, imidazole, salts thereof, and mixtures thereof.
[0023] (a-5) The hydroxylamine other than monoethanolamine may be selected from the group consisting of 2-(methylamino)ethanol, diethanolamine, 2-(2-aminoethoxy)ethanol, triethanolamine, hydroxylamine, (S)-(+)-2-pyrrolidinemethanol, (S)-(+)-2-amino-3-methyl-1-butanol, 1-aminopropan-2-ol, 2-amino-1-butanol, 1,3-diamino-2-propanol, 2-amino-1,3-propanediol, hydrazinoethanol, 3-amino-1-propanol, 4-amino-1-butanol, salts thereof, and mixtures thereof.
[0024] The (a-6) compound may be selected from the group consisting of glycine methyl ester, urea, biuret, thiourea, guanidine, aminoguanidine, N-(4-aminobutylguanidine), formamide, N-methylformamide, salts thereof, and mixtures thereof.
[0025] The amount of (a) the amino-functional organic compound in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.001 to 1 mol / 100 g, preferably from 0.005 to 0.5 mol / 100 g, more preferably from 0.01 to 0.1 mol / 100 g, where 100 g is the total mass of the composition.
[0026] (b) The compound may be selected from the group consisting of alkylaminosulfonic acids, such as 2-(cyclohexylamino)ethanesulfonic acid; amino acids, such as glycine, alanine, glutamic acid, aspartic acid, phenylalanine, β-alanine, isoleucine, leucine, proline, glutamine, serine, threonine, valine, tryptophan, and tyrosine; oligomers of amino acids, such as glycylglycine; aminosulfonic acids, such as taurine; and mixtures thereof.
[0027] The (b) compound may preferably be selected from the group consisting of 2-(cyclohexylamino)ethanesulfonic acid, glycine, alanine, taurine, and mixtures thereof.
[0028] The amount of the (b) compound in the composition according to the present invention may be from 1% by mass to 20% by mass, preferably from 3% by mass to 15% by mass, and more preferably from 5% by mass to 10% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition.
[0029] The composition according to the invention comprises (c) at least one monohydric alcohol, preferably C 2~4 It may further comprise an aliphatic monohydric alcohol, more preferably ethanol.
[0030] The composition according to the invention may be free of ammonia or thiol compounds or may contain less than 1% by weight, preferably less than 0.5% by weight, more preferably less than 0.1% by weight of ammonia or thiol compounds relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0031] The composition according to the invention may not contain any reducing or oxidizing agent or may contain less than 1% by weight, preferably less than 0.5% by weight, more preferably less than 0.1% by weight of reducing or oxidizing agent relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0032] The present invention also provides a method for reshaping keratinous fibers, such as hair, comprising the steps of: (i) applying onto keratinous fibers a composition for reshaping keratinous fibers; (ii) reshaping the keratin fibers at a temperature of at least 60°C, preferably at least 70°C, more preferably at least 80°C; (iii) optionally rinsing and / or drying the keratinous fibers; Including, A composition for reshaping keratinous fibers comprising: (a) (a-1) Aliphatic monoamines and their salts, (a-2) aliphatic diamines and their salts, (a-3) aliphatic polyamines and their salts, (a-4) cyclic amines and salts thereof, (a-5) Hydroxylamines and their salts other than monoethanolamine, and (a-6) A compound selected from the group consisting of amino acid esters, ureas, guanidines, amides, salts thereof, and mixtures thereof. At least one amino-functional organic compound selected from the group consisting of: (b) an alkylaminosulfonic acid and a compound of formula (I) and (II):
[0033] [ka]
[0034] [In the formulas (I) and (II), R represents a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched, preferably linear, C1-C5 alkyl group, said alkyl group being selected from the group consisting of a hydroxyl group, an amino group, a carboxamide group, a C6-C 18 Aromatic group, heterocyclic group, -C(O)-OH, -S(O)2-OH, -C(O)-O - M + , -S(O)2-O - M + and mixtures thereof; + represents a cationic counterion such as an alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, or ammonium; - n is 0 or 1 and at least one compound other than component (a), selected from the compounds Including, The present invention also relates to a method, wherein the pH of the composition is from 7.5 to less than 12.0, preferably from 8.0 to 11.5, and more preferably from 8.5 to 11.0. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE PREFERRED EMBODIMENTS
[0035] As a result of extensive investigations, the inventors have discovered that it is possible to provide a novel technique capable of reshaping keratin fibres, such as hair, in one step, even under moderately high pH conditions, with acceptable keratin fibre reshaping efficiency.
[0036] Thus, one aspect of the present invention is a composition for reshaping keratinous fibers, such as hair, comprising: (a) (a-1) Aliphatic monoamines and their salts, (a-2) aliphatic diamines and their salts, (a-3) aliphatic polyamines and their salts, (a-4) cyclic amines and salts thereof, (a-5) Hydroxylamines and their salts other than monoethanolamine, and (a-6) A compound selected from the group consisting of amino acid esters, ureas, guanidines, amides, salts thereof, and mixtures thereof. At least one amino-functional organic compound selected from the group consisting of: (b) an alkylaminosulfonic acid and a compound of formula (I) and (II):
[0037] [ka]
[0038] [In the formulas (I) and (II), R represents a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched, preferably linear, C1-C5 alkyl group, said alkyl group being selected from the group consisting of a hydroxyl group, an amino group, a carboxamide group, a C6-C 18 Aromatic group, heterocyclic group, -C(O)-OH, -S(O)2-OH, -C(O)-O - M + , -S(O)2-O - M + and mixtures thereof; + represents a cationic counterion such as an alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, or ammonium; - n is 0 or 1 and at least one compound other than component (a), selected from the compounds Including, The composition has a pH of from 7.5 to less than 12.0, preferably from 8.0 to 11.5, and more preferably from 8.5 to 11.0.
[0039] Another aspect of the invention is a method for reshaping keratinous fibers, such as hair, comprising the steps of: (i) applying onto keratinous fibers a composition for reshaping keratinous fibers; (ii) reshaping the keratin fibers at a temperature of at least 60°C, preferably at least 70°C, more preferably at least 80°C; (iii) optionally rinsing and / or drying the keratinous fibers; Including, A composition for reshaping keratinous fibers comprising: (a) (a-1) Aliphatic monoamines and their salts, (a-2) aliphatic diamines and their salts, (a-3) aliphatic polyamines and their salts, (a-4) cyclic amines and salts thereof, (a-5) Hydroxylamines and their salts other than monoethanolamine, and (a-6) A compound selected from the group consisting of amino acid esters, ureas, guanidines, amides, salts thereof, and mixtures thereof. At least one amino-functional organic compound selected from the group consisting of: (b) an alkylaminosulfonic acid and a compound of formula (I) and (II):
[0040] [ka]
[0041] [In the formulas (I) and (II), R represents a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched, preferably linear, C1-C5 alkyl group, said alkyl group being selected from the group consisting of a hydroxyl group, an amino group, a carboxamide group, a C6-C 18 Aromatic group, heterocyclic group, -C(O)-OH, -S(O)2-OH, -C(O)-O - M + , -S(O)2-O - M + and mixtures thereof; + represents a cationic counterion such as an alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, or ammonium; - n is 0 or 1 and at least one compound other than component (a), selected from the compounds Including, The pH of the composition is from 7.5 to less than 12.0, preferably from 8.0 to 11.5, and more preferably from 8.5 to 11.0.
[0042] The compositions and methods according to the present invention are capable of reshaping keratinous fibers, such as hair, in one step with acceptable keratinous fiber reshaping efficiency even under moderate pH conditions (eg, less than 12.0).
[0043] The compositions and methods according to the invention can be used to reshape or transform keratinous fibers such as hair, where reshaping includes not only curling or waving but also straightening.
[0044] The compositions and methods according to the invention can at least, when curling or waving keratinous fibers, result in curled or wavy keratinous fibers with an acceptable reshaping efficiency, e.g., acceptable number of curls, curl shape, and wave strength, or, when straightening keratinous fibers, can result in an acceptable straight shape, reduced curl or wave, and reduced volume of the keratinous fibers.
[0045] In a preferred embodiment, the compositions and methods according to the present invention can provide curled or wavy keratinous fibers with sufficient reshaping efficiency, e.g., good curl number, curl shape, and wave strength, when curling or waving keratinous fibers, or can provide good straight shape, reduced curl or wave, and reduced volume of keratinous fibers when straightening keratinous fibers.
[0046] The composition and method according to the present invention are used under not too high pH conditions, so that damage to keratin fibers such as hair can be reduced.Therefore, the keratin fibers treated according to the present invention can provide better touch, such as smooth touch, under dry and / or wet conditions.In addition, the keratin fibers treated according to the present invention can be easily handled.Also, the keratin fibers treated according to the present invention can be stronger than those treated by conventional reshaping techniques.
[0047] The compositions and methods according to the invention are capable of reshaping keratin fibres such as hair in one step, i.e. without carrying out reduction and oxidation steps, and therefore have good utility, e.g. short processing times and no malodour when no sulphur-containing compounds or ammonia are used.
[0048] The present invention will be described in detail below.
[0049] [Composition] The composition for reshaping keratinous fibers, such as hair, according to the invention comprises: (a) (a-1) Aliphatic monoamines and their salts, (a-2) aliphatic diamines and their salts, (a-3) aliphatic polyamines and their salts, (a-4) cyclic amines and salts thereof, (a-5) Hydroxylamines and their salts other than monoethanolamine, and (a-6) A compound selected from the group consisting of amino acid esters, ureas, guanidines, amides, salts thereof, and mixtures thereof. At least one amino-functional organic compound selected from the group consisting of: (b) an alkylaminosulfonic acid and a compound of formula (I) and (II):
[0050] [ka]
[0051] [In the formulas (I) and (II), R represents a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched, preferably linear, C1-C5 alkyl group, said alkyl group being selected from the group consisting of a hydroxyl group, an amino group, a carboxamide group, a C6-C 18 Aromatic group, heterocyclic group, -C(O)-OH, -S(O)2-OH, -C(O)-O - M + , -S(O)2-O - M + and mixtures thereof; + represents a cationic counterion such as an alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, or ammonium; - n is 0 or 1 and at least one compound other than component (a), selected from the compounds Including, The pH of the composition is from 7.5 to less than 12.0, preferably from 8.0 to 11.5, and more preferably from 8.5 to 11.0.
[0052] (First Compound) The composition according to the present invention comprises as a first compound: (a) (a-1) Aliphatic monoamines and their salts, (a-2) aliphatic diamines and their salts, (a-3) aliphatic polyamines and their salts, (a-4) cyclic amines and salts thereof, (a-5) Hydroxylamines and their salts other than monoethanolamine, and (a-6) A compound selected from the group consisting of amino acid esters, ureas, guanidines, amides, salts thereof, and mixtures thereof. The composition comprises at least one amino-functional organic compound selected from the group consisting of:
[0053] Two or more (a) amino-functional organic compounds may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of (a) amino-functional organic compound or a combination of different types of (a) amino-functional organic compounds may be used.
[0054] (a) The amino-functional organic compound may be the only alkaline agent in the composition according to the present invention.
[0055] The (a) amino-functional organic compound may have a pKa (at 25° C.) of 4 or more, preferably 7 or more, more preferably 9 or more. The (a) amino-functional organic compound may have a pKa (at 25° C.) of 14 or less, preferably 13 or less, more preferably 12 or less. The (a) amino-functional organic compound may have a pKa (at 25° C.) of 4 to 14, preferably 7 to 13, more preferably 9 to 12.
[0056] The (a) amino-functional organic compound may have a molar mass (g / mol) of 30 or more, preferably 40 or more, more preferably 50 or more. The (a) amino-functional organic compound may have a molar mass (g / mol) of 250 or less, preferably 200 or less, more preferably 150 or less. The (a) amino-functional organic compound may have a molar mass (g / mol) of 30 to 250, preferably 40 to 200, more preferably 50 to 150.
[0057] The (a) amino-functional organic compound may have a hydrophilicity (log d) at pH 10.6 of -3 or more, preferably -2.5 or more, more preferably -2 or more. The (a) amino-functional organic compound may have a hydrophilicity (log d) at pH 10.6 of 1.5 or less, preferably 1.0 or less, more preferably 0.5 or less. The (a) amino-functional organic compound may have a hydrophilicity (log d) at pH 10.6 of -3 to 1.5, preferably -2.5 to 1.0, more preferably -2 to 0.5.
[0058] The (a) amino-functional organic compound may have a water solubility (mg / mL) at pH 10.6 of 10 or more, preferably 100 or more, more preferably 500 or more. The (a) amino-functional organic compound may have a water solubility (mg / mL) at pH 10.6 of 5,000 or less, preferably 3,000 or less, more preferably 1,500 or less. The (a) amino-functional organic compound may have a water solubility (mg / mL) at pH 10.6 of 10 to 5,000, preferably 100 to 3,000, more preferably 500 to 1,500.
[0059] The (a) amino-functional organic compound may have a polarizability (Å3) of 1 or more, preferably 3 or more, more preferably 5 or more. The (a) amino-functional organic compound may have a polarizability (Å3) of 25 or less, preferably 20 or less, more preferably 15 or less. The (a) amino-functional organic compound may have a polarizability (Å3) of 1 to 25, preferably 3 to 20, more preferably 5 to 15.
[0060] (a) The amino-functional organic compound may have a Mayr nucleophilicity (N) in HO of 10 or more, preferably 11 or more, more preferably 12 or more. (a) The amino-functional organic compound may have a Mayr nucleophilicity (N) in HO of 18 or less, preferably 16 or less, more preferably 14 or less. (a) The amino-functional organic compound may have a Mayr nucleophilicity (N) in HO of 10 to 18, preferably 11 to 16, more preferably 12 to 14.
[0061] (a-1) Aliphatic monoamines are organic compounds having one amino functional group and at least one aliphatic group.
[0062] (a-1) The aliphatic monoamine has an amino functional group selected from a primary amino group, a secondary amino group, and a tertiary amino group.
[0063] The (a-1) aliphatic monoamine preferably has at least one linear or branched alkyl group. In this case, the (a-1) aliphatic monoamine may be referred to as an alkyl monoamine. The number of alkyl groups may be 1, 2 or 3. The alkyl group may have 1 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably 1 to 8 carbon atoms, more preferably 1 to 6 carbon atoms. The (a-1) aliphatic monoamine may have a C1 to C6 alkyl group such as a methyl group, an ethyl group, a propyl group and a butyl group. The propyl group may be an n-propyl group or an isopropyl group. The butyl group may be an n-butyl group, a sec-butyl group, an isobutyl group or a tert-butyl group.
[0064] (a-1) The aliphatic monoamine may be selected from the group consisting of methylamine, dimethylamine, trimethylamine, ethylamine, trimethylamine, propylamine, butylamine, isobutylamine, tert-butylamine, salts thereof, and mixtures thereof.
[0065] The salt of the (a-1) aliphatic monoamine is not limited, and may be an inorganic acid salt such as hydrochloride and sulfate, or an organic acid salt such as formate and acetate.
[0066] (a-2) Aliphatic diamines are organic compounds having two amino functional groups and at least one aliphatic group.
[0067] (a-2) The aliphatic diamine has an amino functional group selected from a primary amino group, a secondary amino group, and a tertiary amino group.
[0068] The (a-2) aliphatic diamine preferably has at least one linear or branched alkylene group. In this case, the (a-2) aliphatic diamine may be referred to as an alkylenediamine. The number of alkylenes may be one or two. The alkylene group may have 1 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably 1 to 8 carbon atoms, and more preferably 1 to 6 carbon atoms. The (a-2) aliphatic diamine may have a C1 to C6 alkylene group such as a methylene group, an ethylene group, a propylene group, a butylene group, a pentylene group, and a hexylene group. The propylene group may be an n-propylene group or an isopropylene group. The butylene group may be an n-butylene group or an isobutylene group. The pentylene group may be an n-pentylene group or a neopentylene group.
[0069] (a-2) The aliphatic diamine may be selected from the group consisting of ethylenediamine, 1,3-diaminopropane, 1,4-diaminobutane (putrescine), 1,6-diaminohexane, 2,2-dimethyl-1,3-propanediamine, salts thereof, and mixtures thereof.
[0070] The salt of the (a-2) aliphatic diamine is not limited, and may be an inorganic acid salt such as hydrochloride and sulfate, or an organic acid salt such as formate and acetate.
[0071] (a-3) Aliphatic polyamines are organic compounds having three or more amino functional groups and at least one aliphatic group.
[0072] (a-3) The aliphatic polyamine has an amino functional group selected from a primary amino group, a secondary amino group, and a tertiary amino group.
[0073] (a-3) aliphatic polyamine preferably has at least one linear or branched alkylene group. In this case, (a-3) aliphatic polyamine may be referred to as alkylene polyamine. The number of alkylene may be 1 to 3. The alkylene group may have 1 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably 1 to 8 carbon atoms, more preferably 1 to 6 carbon atoms. (a-3) aliphatic polyamine may have a C1 to C6 alkylene group such as a methylene group, an ethylene group, a propylene group, a butylene group, a pentylene group, and a hexylene group. The propylene group may be an n-propylene group or an isopropylene group. The butylene group may be an n-butylene group or an isobutylene group. The pentylene group may be an n-pentylene group or a neopentylene group.
[0074] It may be preferable that the (a-3) aliphatic polyamine is not a polymer having a repeating unit such as polylysine.
[0075] (a-3) The aliphatic polyamine may be selected from the group consisting of spermidine, N,N'-bis(3-aminopropyl)-1,4-butanediamine (spermine), diethylenetriamine, 3,3-diaminodipropylamine (norspermidine), tris(2-aminoethyl)amine (tren), salts thereof, and mixtures thereof.
[0076] The salt of the (a-3) aliphatic polyamine is not limited, and may be an inorganic acid salt such as hydrochloride and sulfate, or an organic acid salt such as formate and acetate.
[0077] (a-4) Cyclic amines are organic compounds having at least one amino functional group and at least one ring structure which may be alicyclic.
[0078] (a-4) The cyclic amine has an amino functional group selected from a primary amino group, a secondary amino group, and a tertiary amino group.
[0079] (a-4) The cyclic amine preferably has an alicyclic 5- or 6-membered ring.
[0080] The ring structure of the (a-4) cyclic amine may have at least one substituent. The number of the substituents may be 1, 2 or 3. The substituents may be selected from an amino group, a halogen atom (such as Cl and Br), and a linear or branched alkyl group. The alkyl group may have 1 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably 1 to 8 carbon atoms, and more preferably 1 to 6 carbon atoms. The (a-4) cyclic amine may have a C1 to C6 alkyl group such as a methyl group, an ethyl group, a propyl group, and a butyl group. The propyl group may be an n-propyl group or an isopropyl group. The butyl group may be an n-butyl group, a sec-butyl group, an isobutyl group, or a tert-butyl group.
[0081] (a-4) The cyclic amine may be selected from the group consisting of cyclohexylamine, piperidine, aniline, pyridine, 4-aminopyridine, imidazole, salts thereof, and mixtures thereof.
[0082] The salt of the cyclic amine (a-4) is not limited, and may be an inorganic acid salt such as hydrochloride and sulfate, or an organic acid salt such as formate and acetate.
[0083] (a-5) Hydroxylamine, as used herein, is HO-NH2 or an organic compound (except monoethanolamine) having at least one amino functional group and at least one hydroxyl group. The number of amino functional groups may be 1, 2 or 3. The number of hydroxyl groups may be 1, 2 or 3.
[0084] (a-5) Hydroxylamine has an amino functional group selected from a primary amino group, a secondary amino group, and a tertiary amino group.
[0085] (a-5) Hydroxylamine may have at least one linear or branched alkyl or alkylene group. The number of alkyl or alkylene groups may be 1, 2 or 3.
[0086] The alkyl group may have 1 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably 1 to 8 carbon atoms, more preferably 1 to 6 carbon atoms. (a-5) Hydroxylamine may have a C1 to C6 alkyl group such as a methyl group, an ethyl group, a propyl group, or a butyl group. The propyl group may be an n-propyl group or an isopropyl group. The butyl group may be an n-butyl group, a sec-butyl group, an isobutyl group, or a tert-butyl group.
[0087] The alkylene group may have 1 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably 1 to 8 carbon atoms, more preferably 1 to 6 carbon atoms. (a-5) Hydroxylamine may have a C1 to C6 alkylene group such as a methylene group, an ethylene group, a propylene group, a butylene group, a pentylene group, and a hexylene group. The propylene group may be an n-propylene group or an isopropylene group. The butylene group may be an n-butylene group or an isobutylene group. The pentylene group may be an n-pentylene group or a neopentylene group.
[0088] (a-5) Hydroxylamine may have at least one ring structure, which may be alicyclic. The ring structure is preferably an alicyclic 5- or 6-membered ring. The ring structure may have at least one substituent. The number of the substituents may be 1, 2 or 3. The substituent may be selected from an amino group, a hydroxyl group, a halogen atom (such as Cl and Br), and a linear or branched alkyl group. The alkyl group may have 1 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably 1 to 8 carbon atoms, more preferably 1 to 6 carbon atoms. (a-5) Hydroxylamine may have a C1 to C6 alkyl group, such as a methyl group, an ethyl group, a propyl group, and a butyl group. The propyl group may be an n-propyl group or an isopropyl group. The butyl group may be an n-butyl group, a sec-butyl group, an isobutyl group, or a tert-butyl group.
[0089] (a-5) The hydroxylamine may be selected from the group consisting of 2-(methylamino)ethanol, diethanolamine, 2-(2-aminoethoxy)ethanol, triethanolamine, hydroxylamine, (S)-(+)-2-pyrrolidinemethanol (prolinol), (S)-(+)-2-amino-3-methyl-1-butanol (valinol), 1-aminopropan-2-ol, 2-amino-1-butanol, 1,3-diamino-2-propanol, 2-amino-1,3-propanediol (serinol), hydrazinoethanol, 3-amino-1-propanol, 4-amino-1-butanol, salts thereof, and mixtures thereof.
[0090] (a-5) The salt of hydroxylamine is not limited, and may be an inorganic acid salt such as hydrochloride and sulfate, or an organic acid salt such as formate and acetate.
[0091] (a) The amino-functional organic compound may be selected from (a-6) compounds selected from the group consisting of amino acid esters, ureas, guanidines, amides, salts thereof, and mixtures thereof.
[0092] The amino acid ester may be an alkyl ester, such as a methyl or ethyl ester, of the amino acid.
[0093] The (a-6) compound may be selected from the group consisting of glycine methyl ester, urea, biuret, thiourea, guanidine, aminoguanidine (piimagedine), N-(4-aminobutyl)guanidine (agmatine), formamide (carbamoyl), N-methylformamide, salts thereof, and mixtures thereof.
[0094] The salt of the compound (a-6) is not limited, and may be an inorganic acid salt such as hydrochloride and sulfate, or an organic acid salt such as formate and acetate.
[0095] The amount of (a) the amino-functional organic compound in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.001 mol / 100 g or more, preferably 0.005 mol / 100 g or more, more preferably 0.01 mol / 100 g or more, where 100 g is the total weight of the composition.
[0096] On the other hand, the amount of (a) amino-functional organic compound in the composition according to the present invention may be 1 mol / 100 g or less, preferably 0.5 mol / 100 g or less, more preferably 0.1 mol / 100 g or less, where 100 g is the total mass of the composition.
[0097] The amount of (a) the amino-functional organic compound in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.001 to 1 mol / 100 g, preferably from 0.005 to 0.5 mol / 100 g, more preferably from 0.01 to 0.1 mol / 100 g, where 100 g is the total mass of the composition.
[0098] (Second Compound) The composition according to the present invention comprises, as the second compound, (b) an alkylaminosulfonic acid and at least one compound selected from the compounds of formula (I) and (II) above, as an active ingredient for reshaping keratin fibers.Two or more (b) compounds may be used in combination.Therefore, a single type of (b) compound or a combination of different types of (b) compounds may be used.
[0099] (b) The compound is different from (a) the amino-functional organic compound.
[0100] The (b) compound may function as a buffering agent to effectively maintain alkaline conditions in the composition according to the present invention.
[0101] The (b) compound is preferably non-volatile. It should be recalled that the term "non-volatile" means that the (b) compound generally has a vapor pressure of less than 0.02 mmHg (2.66 Pa) at room temperature.
[0102] The alkylaminosulfonic acid is preferably a C1-C alkylaminosulfonic acid having an imino group (—NH—) and a sulfonic acid moiety attached thereto. 20 Alkyl group, preferably C5-C 16 Cycloalkyl groups, more preferably C6-C 12 It may have a cycloalkyl group. The alkylaminosulfonic acid may be selected from the group consisting of 4-(2-hydroxyethyl)-1-piperazineethanesulfonic acid, 2-(cyclohexylamino)ethanesulfonic acid, and mixtures thereof.
[0103] The (b) compounds of formula (I) and (II) above may be in their non-ionized form (I) or (II) or in their ionized or betaine form (I') or (II'):
[0104] [ka]
[0105] [In the formula, R represents a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched, preferably linear, C1-C5 alkyl group, said alkyl group being selected from the group consisting of a hydroxyl group, an amino group, a carboxamide group, a C6-C 18 Aromatic group, heterocyclic group, -C(O)-OH, -S(O)2-OH, -C(O)-O - M + , -S(O)2-O - M + and mixtures thereof; + represents a cationic counterion such as an alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, or ammonium; - n is 0 or 1.
[0106] Examples of the C1-C5 alkyl group include a methyl group, an ethyl group, a propyl group, an isopropyl group, an n-butyl group, a sec-butyl group, an isobutyl group, a tert-butyl group, and a pentyl group. A methyl group and an ethyl group are preferred, and a methyl group is more preferred.
[0107] The amino group may include -NH2, a group containing -NH2 such as a sulfonylamino group, and a group containing -NH-R' (wherein R' represents a hydroxyl group or a C1-C5 alkyl group as listed above) such as a hydroxyamino group and a C1-C5 alkylamino group. It should be noted that the term "amino" group does not mean a part of a urea group in this specification. As the amino group, -NH2 is preferred.
[0108] C6~C 18 The aromatic group is a monovalent C6-C group such as a phenyl group. 18 Aryl groups, substituted phenyl groups such as hydroxyphenyl groups and aminophenyl groups, and monovalent C7-C groups such as tolyl groups 18 Mention may be made of aralkyl groups.
[0109] Heterocyclic groups include monovalent, saturated or unsaturated, substituted or unsubstituted heterocyclic groups, such as substituted or unsubstituted pyrrolyl groups, substituted or unsubstituted pyrrolidinyl groups, substituted or unsubstituted pyridyl groups, substituted or unsubstituted piperidono groups, substituted or unsubstituted piperidinyl groups, substituted or unsubstituted morpholino groups, substituted or unsubstituted morpholinyl groups, substituted or unsubstituted furyl groups, and substituted or unsubstituted indolyl groups, such as 3-indolyl groups.
[0110] The compounds of formulae (I) and (II) above correspond to amino acids and aminosulfonic acids, respectively.
[0111] (b) The compounds may be selected from "neutral", "basic" or "acidic" amino acids or aminosulfonic acids. The term "neutral" is intended to mean an amino acid or aminosulfonic acid capable of resulting in a pH value of between 5 and 7, inclusive, in water at room temperature (25° C.). The term "basic" is intended to mean an amino acid or aminosulfonic acid capable of resulting in a pH value of greater than 8, in water at room temperature. The term "acidic" is intended to mean an amino acid or aminosulfonic acid capable of resulting in a pH value of less than 6, in water at room temperature.
[0112] Preferably, the amino acid or aminosulfonic acid may contain a number of amino groups up to the number of acid groups.
[0113] (b) The compound may be selected from the group consisting of alkylaminosulfonic acids, such as 2-(cyclohexylamino)ethanesulfonic acid; amino acids, such as arginine, lysine, histidine, asparagine, glycine, alanine, glutamic acid, aspartic acid, phenylalanine, β-alanine, isoleucine, leucine, proline, glutamine, serine, threonine, valine, tryptophan, and tyrosine; oligomers of amino acids, such as glycylglycine; aminosulfonic acids, such as taurine; and mixtures thereof.
[0114] Preferably, the (b) compound is selected from the group consisting of 2-(cyclohexylamino)ethanesulfonic acid, glycine, alanine, taurine, and mixtures thereof.
[0115] The amount of the (b) compound in the composition according to the present invention may be 1% by weight or more, preferably 3% by weight or more, more preferably 5% by weight or more, based on the total weight of the composition.
[0116] On the other hand, the amount of the (b) compound in the composition according to the present invention may be 20% by weight or less, preferably 15% by weight or less, more preferably 10% by weight or less, based on the total weight of the composition.
[0117] The amount of the (b) compound in the composition according to the present invention may be from 1% by mass to 20% by mass, preferably from 3% by mass to 15% by mass, and more preferably from 5% by mass to 10% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition.
[0118] (Monohydric alcohol) The composition according to the invention may further comprise (c) at least one monohydric alcohol. Two or more such alcohols may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of such alcohol or a combination of different types of such alcohols may be used.
[0119] (c) The monohydric alcohol is preferably heated at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg or 10 5 It is in the form of a liquid at room temperature, e.g., 25°C, under 10 Pa.
[0120] The term "monohydric alcohol" as used herein means an alcohol having one hydroxy group.
[0121] (c) The monohydric alcohol may be non-aromatic (aliphatic) or aromatic.
[0122] The non-aromatic monohydric alcohol is preferably a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched lower aliphatic monohydric alcohol, more preferably a C2-C6 aliphatic monohydric alcohol, even more preferably a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C2-C5 aliphatic monohydric alcohol, and most preferably a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C2-C4 aliphatic monohydric alcohol. Preferred non-aromatic monohydric alcohols are ethanol, isopropanol, and mixtures thereof.
[0123] The aromatic monohydric alcohol is preferably selected from the group consisting of benzyl alcohol, phenethyl alcohol, phenoxyethanol, diphenylethanol, cinnamic alcohol, tryptophol, 3-nitrobenzyl alcohol, veratryl alcohol, benzoin, and mixtures thereof.
[0124] (c) The monohydric alcohol is preferably not an aliphatic alcohol or a higher alcohol.
[0125] (c) The monohydric alcohol is preferably selected from the group consisting of lower aliphatic alcohols, aromatic alcohols, and mixtures thereof, and more preferably selected from the group consisting of ethanol, benzyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.
[0126] The amount of (c) monohydric alcohol in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by mass or more, preferably 0.1% by mass or more, and more preferably 1% by mass or more, based on the total mass of the composition.
[0127] On the other hand, the amount of (c) monohydric alcohol in the composition according to the present invention may be 20% by mass or less, preferably 15% by mass or less, more preferably 10% by mass or less, based on the total mass of the composition.
[0128] The amount of (c) monohydric alcohol in the composition according to the present invention may be in the range of 0.01% by mass to 20% by mass, preferably 0.1% by mass to 15% by mass, and more preferably 1% by mass to 10% by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition.
[0129] (water) The composition according to the present invention may further comprise (d) water.
[0130] It is preferred that the compositions according to the invention comprise water (i.e. are not anhydrous).
[0131] The amount of (d) water in the composition according to the present invention can be 50% by mass or more, preferably 60% by mass or more, and more preferably 70% by mass or more, based on the total mass of the composition.
[0132] The amount of (d) water in the composition according to the present invention may be 98% by weight or less, preferably 94% by weight or less, more preferably 90% by weight or less, based on the total weight of the composition.
[0133] The amount of (d) water in the composition according to the present invention can be 50% by mass to 98% by mass, preferably 60% by mass to 94% by mass, and more preferably 70% by mass to 90% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition.
[0134] (pH) The pH of the composition according to the present invention, measured at 25° C., is from 7.5 to less than 12.0, preferably from 8.0 to 11.5, and more preferably from 8.5 to 11.0.
[0135] The pH of the composition according to the invention is in the following equilibrium state:
[0136] [ka]
[0137] It is preferable that the pH is within ±2 of the pH equal to the pKa of the compound.
[0138] (Ammonia and thiol compounds) The composition according to the present invention is preferably free of ammonia or thiol compounds.The term "free of ammonia or thiol compounds" means that the composition according to the present invention does not contain a substantial amount of ammonia or thiol compounds.Preferably, the composition according to the present invention contains 1% by weight or less of ammonia or thiol compounds, more preferably 0.5% by weight or less, even more preferably 0.1% by weight or less of ammonia or thiol compounds, and in particular does not contain ammonia or thiol compounds.
[0139] Due to the very low or absent amount of ammonia and / or thiol compounds, malodour during use of the composition according to the invention can be reduced or prevented.
[0140] A thiol compound, as used herein, refers to a compound having at least one thiol (-SH) group.
[0141] The thiol compound may be a reducing agent. The thiol reducing agent may be selected from the group consisting of thioglycolic acid and its derivatives, especially its esters such as glycerol monothioglycolate or glycol monothioglycolate; thiolactic acid and its derivatives, especially its esters such as glycerol monothiolactic acid; 3-mercaptopropionic acid and its derivatives, especially its esters such as glycerol 3-mercaptopropionate and ethylene glycol 3-mercaptopropionate; cysteamine and its derivatives, especially its C1-C4 acyl derivatives such as N-acetylcysteamine and N-propionylcysteamine; monothioglycerol and its derivatives, especially its esters; thioglycerin and its derivatives, especially its s-alkyl derivatives, and salts thereof; and butyrolactonethiol.
[0142] Examples of the salts include ammonium salts, primary, secondary, or tertiary amine salts, alkali metal salts, and alkaline earth metal salts. Examples of the primary, secondary, or tertiary amine include diisopropanolamine or triethanolamine, respectively.
[0143] Other examples of thiol reducing agents include, but are not limited to, sugar N-mercaptoalkylamides [such as N-(mercapto-2-ethyl)gluconamide, β-mercaptopropionic acid, and derivatives thereof]; thiomalic acid; pantetheine; N-(mercaptoalkyl)ω-hydroxyalkylamides (such as those described in European Patent Application No. 0354835) and N-mono- or N,N-dialkylmercapto 4-butylamides (such as those described in European Patent Application No. 0368763); aminomercaptoalkylamides (such as those described in European Patent Application No. 0432000) and alkylaminomercaptoalkylamides (such as those described in European Patent Application No. 0514282); (2 / 3) hydroxy-2 propyl thioglycolate; and the hydroxy-2 methyl-1 ethyl thioglycolate-based mixture (67 / 33) described in French Patent Application No. 2679448.
[0144] (Reducing and Oxidizing Agents) Compositions according to the invention may include a reducing agent, however, it is preferred that compositions according to the invention contain reduced amounts of reducing or oxidizing agents, and preferably are free of reducing or oxidizing agents.
[0145] The term "free of reducing or oxidizing agents" means that the composition according to the invention does not contain a substantial amount of reducing or oxidizing agents. Preferably, the composition according to the invention contains 1% by weight or less of reducing or oxidizing agents, more preferably 0.5% by weight or less, even more preferably 0.1% by weight or less of reducing or oxidizing agents, and in particular no reducing or oxidizing agents.
[0146] The reducing agent may be a thiol reducing agent or a non-thiol reducing agent. Thiol reducing agents are as described above.
[0147] Non-thiol reducing agent herein means a reducing agent that does not contain a thiol group. Non-thiol reducing agent may be selected from the group consisting of sulfites, bisulfites, sulfinates, phosphines, sugars, reductones and hydrides. Non-thiol reducing agent may be selected from ammonium sulfite and ammonium bisulfite, and sulfites and bisulfites of metals, more preferably sulfites and bisulfites of alkali metals or alkaline earth metals, more preferably sodium sulfite and sodium bisulfite, for example sodium metabisulfite.
[0148] The oxidizing agent may be selected from hydrogen peroxide, alkali metal bromates, ferricyanides, peroxygen salts, and compounds capable of generating hydrogen peroxide by hydrolysis. For example, the oxidizing agent can be selected from aqueous hydrogen peroxide, urea peroxide, alkali metal bromates, and persalts such as perborates and persulfates.
[0149] According to one embodiment of the present invention, no or little reducing or oxidizing agent may be used to straighten keratin fibers such as hair. Thus, compared to conventional straightening methods for keratin fibers that require reduction / oxidation of keratin fibers, the present invention can reduce the time required to straighten keratin fibers. Furthermore, one embodiment of the present invention may use no or little reducing or oxidizing agents, and therefore damage to keratin fibers may be reduced compared to conventional methods that require the use of reducing or oxidizing agents.
[0150] (Other Ingredients) The composition according to the invention may comprise at least one additional optional ingredient.
[0151] For example, compositions according to the present invention may include alkene-containing compounds such as acetamidoacrylic acid, itaconic acid, and methyl vinyl ketone.
[0152] The amount of the additional optional components is not limited, but may be from 0.001% to 20% by weight, from 0.01% to 10% by weight, or from 0.1% to 1% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
[0153] Additional optional ingredients may be selected from the group consisting of bases; acids; hydrophilic or hydrophobic thickeners; anionic, nonionic or amphoteric surfactants; anionic, nonionic or amphoteric polymers; oils; peptides and derivatives thereof; protein hydrolysates; swelling and penetrating agents; depilatory active agents; antidandruff agents; suspending agents; sequestrants; opacifying agents; dyes; sunscreens; vitamins or provitamins; fragrances; preservatives, stabilizers; and mixtures thereof.
[0154] The compositions according to the invention may be in any of the formulation forms conventionally used, in particular in the form of aqueous, alcoholic or aqueous-alcoholic or oily solutions or suspensions; in the form of solutions or dispersions of the lotion or serum type; in the form of emulsions of the O / W, W / O or multiple type, in particular having a liquid or semi-liquid consistency; in the form of suspensions or emulsions of the (O / W) or (W / O) cream type, having a soft consistency; in the form of an aqueous gel or in any other cosmetic form.
[0155] [method] The method for reshaping keratinous fibers, such as hair, according to the present invention comprises: (i) applying onto keratinous fibers a composition for reshaping keratinous fibers; (ii) reshaping the keratin fibers at a temperature of at least 60°C, preferably at least 70°C, more preferably at least 80°C; (iii) optionally rinsing and / or drying the keratinous fibers; Including, The composition for reshaping keratinous fibers comprises (a) (a-1) Aliphatic monoamines and their salts, (a-2) aliphatic diamines and their salts, (a-3) aliphatic polyamines and their salts, (a-4) cyclic amines and salts thereof, (a-5) Hydroxylamines and their salts other than monoethanolamine, and (a-6) A compound selected from the group consisting of amino acid esters, ureas, guanidines, amides, salts thereof, and mixtures thereof. At least one amino-functional organic compound selected from the group consisting of: (b) an alkylaminosulfonic acid and a compound of formula (I) and (II):
[0156] [ka]
[0157] [In the formulas (I) and (II), R represents a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched, preferably linear, C1-C5 alkyl group, said alkyl group being selected from the group consisting of a hydroxyl group, an amino group, a carboxamide group, a C6-C 18 Aromatic group, heterocyclic group, -C(O)-OH, -S(O)2-OH, -C(O)-O - M + , -S(O)2-O - M + and mixtures thereof; + represents a cationic counterion such as an alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, or ammonium; - n is 0 or 1 and at least one compound other than component (a), selected from the compounds Including, The pH of the composition is from 7.5 to less than 12.0, preferably from 8.0 to 11.5, and more preferably from 8.5 to 11.0.
[0158] Details of the composition used in the method according to the present invention have already been described above in the section entitled "Composition". Therefore, the composition used in the method according to the present invention may be the same as the composition according to the present invention.
[0159] The method according to the invention is intended for reshaping or deforming keratinous fibres such as hair, preferably for temporary or permanent waving or straightening, more preferably for permanent waving or straightening.
[0160] In step (i), the composition already described above in the section entitled "Composition" is applied to keratinous fibers such as hair. Application of the composition can be carried out by any means, such as by brushing and combing.
[0161] The liquor ratio of the applied composition to the keratinous fibers may range from 0.1 to 10, more particularly from 0.5 to 5, preferably from 0.8 to 1.2. The term "liquor ratio" is intended to mean the mass ratio between the total mass of the applied composition and the total mass of the keratinous fibers.
[0162] After application of the composition, the keratinous fibers may be left in place, if necessary, for a specific length of time, typically from 1 minute to 1 hour, preferably 2 to 30 minutes, more preferably 3 to 10 minutes, to allow the composition to penetrate into the keratinous fibers.
[0163] At least one coating means preferably coats the keratinous fibers to which the composition has been applied and keeps the keratinous fibers wet. The keratinous fibers are preferably coated so as to remain wet during step (ii) described below.
[0164] The covering means may be hard or soft. The covering means may include at least one member selected from the group consisting of a film and a sheet. The material of the film or sheet is not limited. For example, the film or sheet may include a thermoplastic or thermosetting resin, paper, a textile material, a covering, a metal foil such as aluminum foil, and the like.
[0165] The covering means, which may be a film or sheet, is preferably heat resistant, more preferably resistant to temperatures above 100° C., even more preferably 110° C. or higher, even more preferably 120° C. or higher. It is also preferable that the covering means, which may be a film or sheet, has high thermal conductivity and can prevent moisture evaporation. Therefore, it is preferable that the covering means comprises a metal foil, such as an aluminum foil.
[0166] The covering means, such as a film or sheet, is preferably capable of forming at least one closed space containing the keratinous fibers.
[0167] The closed space can limit the evaporation of volatile components, such as water, in the composition applied to the keratinous fibers, and therefore the temperature of the keratinous fibers can be increased to a higher temperature than can be obtained by conventional heating processes or devices for keratinous fibers in the open state. Furthermore, the keratinous fibers can be heated efficiently and evenly.
[0168] The closed space may form a condensation cage in which the water and the component(s) in the composition used in the method according to the invention can evaporate from the keratin fibers, adhere to the walls of the film or sheet, and fall onto the keratin fibers. This cycle may be repeated during step (ii), i.e., during the heating of the keratin fibers. In this way, the keratin fibers can be kept constantly wet, and drying and deterioration of the keratin fibers can be prevented.
[0169] The formation of closed spaces may be favorable because the keratin fibers in the closed spaces can be kept wet and the temperature of the keratin fibers can be maintained constant. The wet state of the keratin fibers may be favorable for the ingredients in the composition used in the method according to the present invention to effectively penetrate into the keratin fibers.
[0170] According to one variant of the invention, the enclosed space may be provided with openings, the surface area of which is less than 5%, preferably less than 3% and more particularly less than 0.5% of the total surface area of the covering means, which, according to this variant, includes the surface area of the opening means for the covering means, if present.
[0171] The openings may be passages, holes or holes, which may allow air exchange between the enclosed space and its outside, especially if the reaction (such as forming steam inside the enclosed space) is too large, while the skilled person may form the openings in such a way that the diffusion of heat in the enclosed space is not impaired.
[0172] In step (ii), the keratinous fibers, preferably in a wet state, are heated.
[0173] It may be preferred that the keratinous fibres are heated to at least 60°C, preferably at least 70°C, more preferably at least 80°C during the (ii) heating step.
[0174] It may be preferred that the keratinous fibers are heated to no more than 210°C, preferably no more than 200°C, more preferably no more than 190°C during the (ii) heating step.
[0175] It may be preferred that the keratin fibers are heated to 60° C. to 210° C., preferably 70° C. to 200° C., more preferably 80° C. to 190° C. during the (ii) heating step. The heating time may be, for example, 5 to 30 minutes, preferably 10 to 20 minutes. The (ii) heating step may be carried out by any heating means that can be controlled to achieve the desired temperature for the process.
[0176] According to the present invention, keratinous fibers, such as hair, may be subjected to mechanical tension typically used to reshape or deform keratinous fibers. Mechanical tension may be applied to the keratinous fibers by any means to reshape or deform the keratinous fibers into an intended shape.
[0177] A mechanical tension may be applied to the keratinous fibres, such as hair, before and / or after step (i), preferably before and / or during step (ii).
[0178] For example, in the case of waving, the mechanical tension can be applied by at least one reshaping means selected from the group consisting of curlers, rollers, and clips. The reshaping means may comprise at least one heater. When winding the keratin fibers on curlers, this rolling can be performed on the entire length of the keratin fibers or, for example, on half the length of the keratin fibers. Depending, for example, on the shape of the desired hairstyle and the amount of curl, the rolling can be performed in more or less thick bundles. In one embodiment, a digital perm machine may be used.
[0179] On the other hand, for straightening, a mechanical tension can be applied by means of at least one heating iron.
[0180] Any conventional heating iron may be used. The heating iron may have at least one plate, preferably two plates, which may be heated, for example, by electric heat. The heated plate may be applied onto the coated keratin fibers and moved along the direction of the keratin fibers to straighten the keratin fibers.
[0181] The heating iron preferably has two plates, and the keratin fibers are sandwiched between the two plates of the heating iron, at least one of which can be heated, and then the two plates are moved along the direction of the keratin fibers to straighten the keratin fibers.
[0182] Next, if the keratinous fibers have been coated, the coating is removed from the coated keratinous fibers to expose the keratinous fibers from the coating means.
[0183] In step (iii), the keratinous fibers may be rinsed, preferably with water, and / or dried. Drying of the keratinous fibers may be carried out by conventional drying means, such as a hair dryer.
[0184] The method according to the invention makes it possible to reshape or transform keratinous fibres such as hair, preferably to temporarily or permanently wave or straighten, more preferably to permanently wave or straighten.
[0185] [use] The present invention also relates to a process for reshaping keratin fibres, such as hair, by lanthionization, preferably without the use of reducing or oxidizing agents, (b) an alkylaminosulfonic acid and a compound of formula (I) and (II):
[0186] [ka]
[0187] [In the formulas (I) and (II), R represents a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched, preferably linear, C1-C5 alkyl group, said alkyl group being selected from the group consisting of a hydroxyl group, an amino group, a carboxamide group, a C6-C 18 Aromatic group, heterocyclic group, -C(O)-OH, -S(O)2-OH, -C(O)-O - M + , -S(O)2-O - M + and mixtures thereof; + represents a cationic counterion such as an alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, or ammonium; - n is 0 or 1 At least one compound other than the component (a) described below, selected from the compounds In a composition comprising (a) (a-1) Aliphatic monoamines and their salts, (a-2) aliphatic diamines and their salts, (a-3) aliphatic polyamines and their salts, (a-4) cyclic amines and salts thereof, (a-5) Hydroxylamines and their salts other than monoethanolamine, and (a-6) A compound selected from the group consisting of amino acid esters, ureas, guanidines, amides, salts thereof, and mixtures thereof. At least one amino-functional organic compound selected from the group consisting of The use of The composition may also have a pH of from 7.5 to less than 12.0, preferably from 8.0 to 11.5, and more preferably from 8.5 to 11.0. EXAMPLES
[0188] The present invention will be described in a more detailed manner by means of examples. However, these examples should not be construed as limiting the scope of the present invention.
[0189] (Examples 1 to 46) The following compositions according to Examples 1-46 shown in Tables 1-7 were prepared by mixing the ingredients shown in Tables 1-7. All values for the amounts of ingredients shown in Tables 1-7 are based on "wt %" as active ingredient unless otherwise specified.
[0190] [Table 1]
[0191] [Table 2]
[0192] [Table 3]
[0193] [Table 4]
[0194] [Table 5]
[0195] [Table 6]
[0196] [Table 7]
[0197] [evaluation] (Curl formation procedure) 1 g of each composition was applied to 1 g of pre-washed Chinese hair swatch (length: 27 cm), the hair was wrapped around a 16 mm perm rod, covered with a plastic film (HDPE) physical wrap to form a closed space to keep the hair wet, and then heated at 90° C. for 15 minutes with a digital perm machine (OOHIRO ODIS EX) while keeping the hair wet. After removing the physical wrap, the rod-wrapped hair was cooled at room temperature for 5 minutes and removed from the rod. The hair was then rinsed with tap water and dried in an oven.
[0198] (Wet curl diameter) Each hair swatch, which was wet before being curled and dried as described above, was placed naturally on the flat surface of the plate. Using a ruler, the longest diameter of the curl of the hair swatch was measured. A shorter curl diameter means a higher curling performance.
[0199] The results are shown in Tables 1 to 7.
[0200] (Wet curl count) Each hair swatch that was curled as described above and was wet before drying was naturally placed on the flat surface of the plate. The number of curls of the hair swatch that was curled as described above and was wet before drying was counted by visual observation.
[0201] The results are shown in Tables 1 to 7.
[0202] (Number of dry curls) Each hair swatch that had been curled and dried as described above was naturally placed on the flat surface of the plate. The number of curls on the hair swatch was counted by visual observation.
[0203] The results are shown in Tables 1 to 7.
[0204] (Curl Efficiency) The curl efficiency of curled and dried hair was determined as follows.
[0205] The value of (L0-L) / L0 (where L0 means the length of the hair before curling and L means the length of the hair after curling) was determined as the "curl efficiency" of each hair swatch placed on the plate by measuring the length of the hair before and after curling. It should be noted that the length of the hair swatch before curling was 26 cm, since the top 1 cm of the total length of the 27 cm hair swatch was used to fix the hair swatch on the plate.
[0206] The results are shown in Tables 1 to 7.
[0207] (Summary) Table 1 demonstrates that the use of alkylmonoamines in compositions according to the invention can result in at least acceptable curl efficiency, and in certain cases sufficient curl efficiency, and thus alkylmonoamines can be used in the present invention to reshape keratin fibers.
[0208] Table 2 demonstrates that the use of alkyldiamines in compositions according to the invention can provide at least acceptable curling efficiency, and in certain cases sufficient curling efficiency, and therefore alkyldiamines can be used in the present invention to reshape keratin fibers.In particular, Table 2 demonstrates that the use of ethylenediamine, 1,3-diaminopropane and 2,2-dimethyl-1,3-propanediamine is preferred, since they can provide a relatively higher curling efficiency.
[0209] Table 3 demonstrates that the use of alkylpolyamines in compositions according to the invention can provide at least acceptable and in certain cases sufficient curl efficiency, and therefore alkylpolyamines can be used in the present invention to reshape keratin fibers.In particular, Table 3 demonstrates that N,N'-bis(3-aminopropyl)-1,4-butanediamine, diethylenetriamine, 3,3-diaminodipropylamine, tris(2-aminoethyl)amine are preferred for use, as they can provide relatively higher curl efficiency.
[0210] Table 4 demonstrates that the use of cyclic amines in compositions according to the invention can provide at least acceptable curl efficiency, and in certain cases sufficient curl efficiency, and therefore cyclic amines can be used in the present invention to reshape keratin fibers.In particular, Table 4 demonstrates that the use of cyclohexylamine is preferred, since it can provide a relatively higher curl efficiency.
[0211] Tables 5 and 6 demonstrate that the use of hydroxylamines other than monoethanolamine in the compositions according to the invention can provide at least acceptable curl efficiency, and in certain cases sufficient curl efficiency, and therefore hydroxylamines other than monoethanolamine can be used in the present invention to reshape keratin fibers.In particular, Tables 5 and 6 demonstrate that the use of (S)-(+)-2-pyrrolidinemethanol, 1,3-diamino-2-propanol, and 3-amino-1-propanol is preferred, since they can provide relatively higher curl efficiency.
[0212] Table 7 demonstrates that the use of amino acid esters, ureas, guanidines, amides in compositions according to the invention can provide at least acceptable curl efficiency, and in certain cases sufficient curl efficiency, and therefore amino acid esters, ureas, guanidines, amides can be used in the present invention to reshape keratin fibers.In particular, Table 7 demonstrates that the use of N-(4-aminobutyl)guanidine is preferred, since it can provide a relatively higher curl efficiency.
Claims
1. A composition for reforming keratin fibers such as hair, (a) (a-1) Aliphatic monoamines and their salts, (a-2) Aliphatic diamines and their salts, (a-3) Aliphatic polyamines and their salts, (a-4) Cyclic amines and their salts, (a-5) Hydroxylamines and their salts other than monoethanolamine, (a-6) Compounds selected from the group consisting of amino acid esters, ureas, guanidines, amides, salts thereof, and mixtures thereof. At least one amino-functional organic compound selected from the group consisting of, (b) Alkylaminosulfonic acids and the following formulas (I) and (II): 【Chemistry 1】 [In formulas (I) and (II), - R is a hydrogen atom, or a linear or branched, preferably linear, C 1 -C 5 alkyl group, and the alkyl group is a hydroxyl group, an amino group, a carboxamide group, a C 6 -C 18 aromatic group, a heterocyclic group, -C(O)-OH, -S(O) 2 -OH, -C(O)-O - M + -, -S(O) 2 -O - M + and is optionally substituted with at least one group selected from these mixtures, and M + represents a cationic counterion such as an alkali metal, an alkaline earth metal, or ammonium, - n is either 0 or 1] At least one compound other than component (a) selected from the compounds and Includes, The pH is 7.5 to less than 12.0, preferably 8.0 to 11.5, more preferably 8.5 to 11.
0. composition.
2. (a-1) The composition according to claim 1, wherein the aliphatic monoamine is selected from the group consisting of methylamine, dimethylamine, trimethylamine, ethylamine, trimethylamine, propylamine, butylamine, isobutylamine, tert-butylamine, salts thereof, and mixtures thereof.
3. (a-2) The composition according to claim 1, wherein the aliphatic diamine is selected from the group consisting of ethylenediamine, 1,3-diaminopropane, 1,4-diaminobutane, 1,6-diaminohexane, 2,2-dimethyl-1,3-propanediamine, salts thereof, and mixtures thereof.
4. (a-3) The composition according to claim 1, wherein the aliphatic polyamine is selected from the group consisting of spermidine, N,N'-bis(3-aminopropyl)-1,4-butanediamine, diethylenetriamine, 3,3-diaminodipropylamine, tris(2-aminoethyl)amine, salts thereof, and mixtures thereof.
5. (a-4) The composition according to claim 1, wherein the cyclic amine is selected from the group consisting of cyclohexylamine, piperidine, aniline, pyridine, 4-aminopyridine, imidazole, salts thereof, and mixtures thereof.
6. (a-5) The composition according to claim 1, wherein the hydroxylamine other than monoethanolamine is selected from the group consisting of 2-(methylamino)ethanol, diethanolamine, 2-(2-aminoethoxy)ethanol, triethanolamine, hydroxylamine, (S)-(+)-2-pyrrolidinemethanol, (S)-(+)-2-amino-3-methyl-1-butanol, 1-aminopropan-2-ol, 2-amino-1-butanol, 1,3-diamino-2-propanol, 2-amino-1,3-propanediol, hydrazinoethanol, 3-amino-1-propanol, 4-amino-1-butanol, salts thereof, and mixtures thereof.
7. (a-6) The composition according to claim 1, wherein the compound is selected from the group consisting of glycine methyl ester, urea, biuret, thiourea, guanidine, aminoguanidine, N-(4-aminobutyl)guanidine, formamide, N-methylformamide, salts thereof, and mixtures thereof.
8. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the amount of (a) an amino-functional organic compound in the composition is 0.001 to 1 mol / 100 g, preferably 0.005 to 0.5 mol / 100 g, more preferably 0.01 to 0.1 mol / 100 g, where 100 g is the total mass of the composition.
9. (b) The composition according to claim 1, wherein the compound is selected from the group consisting of alkylaminosulfonic acids, for example, 2-(cyclohexylamino)ethanesulfonic acid; amino acids, for example, glycine, alanine, glutamic acid, aspartic acid, phenylalanine, β-alanine, isoleucine, leucine, proline, glutamine, serine, threonine, valine, tryptophan, and tyrosine; oligomers of amino acids such as glycylglycine; aminosulfonic acids, for example, taurine; and mixtures thereof.
10. (b) The composition according to claim 1, wherein the compound is selected from the group consisting of 2-(cyclohexylamino)ethanesulfonic acid, glycine, alanine, taurine, and mixtures thereof.
11. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the amount of compound (b) in the composition is 1% to 20% by mass, preferably 3% to 15% by mass, and more preferably 5% to 10% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition.
12. (c) At least one monohydric alcohol, preferably C 2~4 The composition according to claim 1, further comprising an aliphatic monohydric alcohol, more preferably ethanol.
13. The composition according to claim 1, which contains no ammonia or thiol compounds at all, or contains less than 1% by mass, preferably less than 0.5% by mass, and more preferably less than 0.1% by mass, of the total mass of the composition, of ammonia or thiol compounds.
14. The composition according to claim 1, which contains no reducing agent or oxidizing agent, or contains a reducing agent or oxidizing agent in an amount of less than 1% by mass, preferably less than 0.5% by mass, and more preferably less than 0.1% by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition.
15. A method for reforming keratin fibers such as hair, (i) A step of applying a composition for reshaping keratin fibers onto keratin fibers, (ii) A step of reforming keratin fibers at a temperature of 60°C or higher, preferably 70°C or higher, more preferably 80°C or higher, (iii) optionally a step of rinsing and / or drying keratin fibers Includes, A composition for reforming keratin fibers, (a) (a-1) Aliphatic monoamines and their salts, (a-2) Aliphatic diamines and their salts, (a-3) Aliphatic polyamines and their salts, (a-4) Cyclic amines and their salts, (a-5) Hydroxylamines and their salts other than monoethanolamine, (a-6) Compounds selected from the group consisting of amino acid esters, ureas, guanidines, amides, salts thereof, and mixtures thereof. At least one amino-functional organic compound selected from the group consisting of, (b) Alkylaminosulfonic acids and the following formulas (I) and (II): 【Chemistry 2】 [In formulas (I) and (II), - R is a hydrogen atom, or a linear or branched, preferably linear, C 1 ~C 5 Represents an alkyl group, and the alkyl group may be a hydroxyl group, an amino group, a carboxamide group, or C 6 ~C 18 Aromatic group, heterocyclic group, -C(O)-OH, -S(O) 2 -OH, -C(O)-O - M + , -S(O) 2 -O - M + , and optionally substituted with at least one group selected from these mixtures, M + This represents a cationic counterion such as an alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, or ammonium. - n is either 0 or 1] At least one compound other than component (a) selected from the compounds and Includes, A method wherein the pH of the composition is 7.5 to less than 12.0, preferably 8.0 to 11.5, and more preferably 8.5 to 11.0.