Anhydrous solid cosmetic composition containing decaglyceryl myristate and a combination of fatty substances

Abstract

a) at least 8% of polyglyceryl-10 myristate, and b) at least one liquid fatty substance selected from non-polar hydrocarbon oils, and c) at least one first solid fatty substance having a melting point of less than 30°C, and d) at least one second solid fatty substance having a melting point in the range of 30°C to 40°C, and e) at least one third solid fatty substance having a melting point of at least 60°C, comprising an anhydrous solid cosmetic composition. Use of a cosmetic composition as defined above for washing keratin materials, preferably the face including the lips, eyes, and eyelashes, and / or removing makeup from the face.

Description

Technical Field

[0001] The present invention particularly belongs to the field of cosmetics aimed at cleaning keratin materials such as skin, lips, eye contour, or eyelashes and / or removing makeup from keratin materials, and more specifically belongs to the field of anhydrous solid cosmetic compositions.

[0002] The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising a combination of decaglyceryl myristate and a fatty substance, which aims to clean keratin materials such as skin, lips or eyelashes and / or remove makeup from keratin materials. The present invention also relates to the use of such a composition, particularly for the face, for cleaning keratin materials and / or removing makeup from keratin materials.

Background Art

[0003] Solid cosmetic compositions are becoming increasingly popular among consumers who wish to reduce their impact on the environment. This is because these products consume little natural water resources and also reduce the carbon impact and cost associated with the amount of water transported, compared to liquid products containing water (which transport water for manufacturing, then transport the products manufactured using the water, resulting in a significant volume and weight to be transported relative to the weight of the active ingredients). Furthermore, considering their low water content, anhydrous compositions can generally limit or even eliminate the use of preservatives, which are often criticized for being synthetic and sometimes allergenic or irritating.

[0004] Consumers are also demanding cosmetic compositions that are more respectful of the environment and contain ingredients with a high proportion of natural and / or nature-identical ingredients. Regulations have also evolved along these lines in order to better quantify the extent of ingredients of natural origin in products. In particular, in order to determine the degree of natural origin of the ingredients they develop and manufacture, manufacturers use the NF ISO 16128 standard, which defines different categories of biological and / or nature-identical ingredients and provides guidelines for calculating the proportion of ingredients of natural origin in their final raw materials and the assignment of a natural origin index to cosmetic ingredients. The use of ingredients of natural origin can have a significant impact on both the feel of the cosmetic product ("paste-like", sticky, difficult to apply, or a texture that may be perceived as interfering with application), and its stability and homogeneity over time (without the phenomenon of oil release or uncontrolled crystallization creating perceptible grains in the texture).

[0005] At the same time, proper skin cleansing and the removal of stubborn makeup are essential for facial care. Excessive sebum and makeup residues can clog pores and contribute to the appearance of blemishes. Also, makeup residues can irritate the skin, promote dehydration of the skin barrier through makeup absorption, and / or cause premature skin aging by interfering with epidermal regeneration, so it is also essential to be able to completely remove makeup before going to bed. However, removing stubborn makeup remains a challenge, especially for waterproof mascara, eyeliner, eyeshadow, glitter, long-lasting foundation, long-lasting lip products, and more generally, so-called "transfer-resistant" makeup products. Typical makeup removal products are insufficient to remove stubborn makeup and require repeated pulling and rubbing of the skin and / or the delicate area around the eyes, thus potentially causing irritation. Other cleansing products may contain high-performance surfactants, but these can cause pulling due to excessive cleaning power and / or have an adverse impact on the environment. Examples include various amphoteric surfactants such as sulfated surfactants, coco betaine, cocoamidopropyl betaine, or sodium cocoamphodiacetate, and oxyalkyleneated surfactants such as those containing polyoxyethylene (PEG) or polyoxypropylene (PPG) units. Finally, other oil-based makeup removers can make makeup removal easier, but they leave an unpleasant greasy feeling on the skin and / or are not rinsed off easily enough.

[0006] The anhydrous solid cleansing balm is available for gently removing makeup and cleansing the skin by softening under pressure and / or melting upon contact with the heat of the skin when applied to the skin. However, their efficiency in removing makeup is prone to change, and even when satisfactory, their compositions do not conform to environmental issues. For example, the inventors are aware of an anhydrous solid makeup remover composition described in the document of International Publication No. 2019 / 126999, which contains a hydrophobic polymer, a hydrocarbon oil, and two surfactants (one of which is a polyglycerol ester). However, these compositions use synthetic thickeners (hydrophobic polyamide polymers) and polyoxyalkylene surfactants to avoid difficulties in achieving sufficient stability and efficacy regarding makeup removal and rinsability. However, the pollution associated with this type of component that accumulates and persists in the environment remains a major issue of our time.

[0007] Finally, consumers are also very demanding regarding sensory quality, seeking products that are easy to remove and apply to the skin, have a pleasant texture that does not stick or feel greasy upon touch, and leave a clean feeling on the skin after rinsing, and have a soft, non-greasy, non-sticky film on the skin. Some solid compositions remain very hard upon application, making it more difficult to spread them on the skin, requiring more forceful pressing or pulling of the skin to spread them, or creating a feeling of restricted movement when they are being applied. Other compositions have a softer solid texture and soften or glide more easily when they are being applied, but may appear stickier or have insufficient stability over time, especially with changes in appearance over time and / or changing viscosities over time. In fact, during stability tests under accelerated conditions involving various temperature rise and fall cycles, soft solid compositions may decompose and then re-structure differently or recrystallize in different forms, for example, having a non-uniform or lumpy appearance (aggregates), a granular structure (crystallization in the form of grains), oil release on the surface, and / or an increase or decrease in the viscosity of the composition over time.

[0008] Therefore, there are a great number of technical problems associated with formulating solid cleansing bars and / or makeup removers that contain a high proportion of components of natural origin and are effective and stable over time. Therefore, their manufacture requires true know-how to meet various criteria of performance, use, and feel.

[0009] Therefore, there is still a need for solid cleansing cosmetic compositions that enable effective makeup removal and easy rinsing, leave the skin feeling clean, soft, and comfortable after use, and do not leave an impression of dryness or a residual oily film.

[0010] There is also a need to formulate cosmetic compositions that have a high content of natural ingredients and / or a high content of natural origin and do not contain, in particular, synthetic polymers or polyoxyalkylene surfactants. In particular, there is a need to have cosmetic compositions that meet the criteria desired by a greater number of consumers, for example, containing at least 90% of components of natural origin.

[0011] There is also a need for solid cleansing cosmetic compositions that are easily removable (e.g., with a finger or spatula), spread easily on the skin, have a softer and more meltable texture, do not impede movement or cause a pulling sensation when applied, are easy to use, non-sticky, and non-pasty.

[0012] At the same time, there is a need for cosmetic compositions that are stable and preserved over the storage period of the product, which can be several months from the time of opening by the end-user, and have good stability and homogeneity over time (without release or crystallization).

[0013] Surprisingly, it is the merit of the applicant to have proposed a novel cosmetic composition that solves all these problems.

Summary of the Invention

[0014] According to a first aspect, the object of the present invention is an anhydrous solid cosmetic composition, a) at least 8% by weight of polyglyceryl-10 myristate, based on the total weight of the composition, and b) at least one liquid fatty substance selected from hydrocarbon oils, preferably non-polar (Npl) hydrocarbon oils, c) at least one first solid fatty substance (S1) having a melting point of less than 30°C, d) at least one second solid fatty substance (S2) having a melting point in the range of 30°C to 40°C, e) at least one third solid fatty substance (S3) having a melting point of at least 60°C, and is an anhydrous solid cosmetic composition.

[0015] After extensive research, the inventors have provided a soft solid cosmetic composition that is high in natural-derived ingredients, effective and stable over time, and has sensory properties comparable to those of compositions containing petrochemical-derived ingredients.

[0016] Surprisingly, the combination according to the present invention makes it possible to obtain a viscosity or hardness sufficient to package the composition, for example, in the form of a balm texture in a jar, while at the same time being flexible enough to be easily grasped (e.g., with fingers or using a spatula) without becoming sticky or "pasty" (just the right amount of removal without forming "threads" or "lumps"). The composition according to the present invention has a very unique texture that is relatively firm and supple.

[0017] The combination of the present invention meets sensory criteria by producing a solid composition that is soft enough and melts upon application. In fact, under the influence of pressure on the skin and the heat of the skin, the composition changes to an oil, which allows it to spread easily on the skin and slide smoothly. Thus, its suppleness and melting power allow the composition to be massaged onto the face, for example, without the feeling of restricted movement or stretched skin.

[0018] Surprisingly, this particular combination of ingredients enables the performance criteria to be met by effective cleansing, even for difficult-to-remove makeup (such as waterproof makeup), and good rinsability (the composition is easily rinsed off with water). Furthermore, surprisingly, when rinsed off with water, the composition (oily on the skin) changes to a milky emulsion (which whitens upon contact with water), carrying away makeup residues and impurities, leaving the skin clean and residue- or oily film-free on the skin.

[0019] Furthermore, the composition according to the invention effectively cleanses while protecting the epidermis without drying or irritating it. After rinsing, it leaves the skin soft, supple, nourished, and clean, without the feeling of an oily or greasy film.

[0020] Furthermore, the composition according to the invention meets the criteria of use and stability, and this combination produces a solid that is both cohesive and soft, having good stability over time (especially after storage under accelerated conditions at 50 °C and temperature cycling). The composition remains homogeneous without oil release or leaching, even when the composition is crushed (e.g., under the repeated action of pressure when removing the composition from the jar). The soft solid composition according to the invention also has a certain consistency over time.

[0021] Surprisingly, the particular combination of ingredients demonstrated by the inventors enables a very high level of naturalness without the need to use synthetic or petrochemical thickeners and / or surfactants, such as synthetic polymers or polyoxyalkylenated surfactants, while at the same time obtaining a composition with high performance, a pleasant feel, and stability.

[0022] Finally, the composition according to the invention meets the eye safety requirements and preservation requirements by taking into account the skin, including the delicate area around the eyes, and restricting or even eliminating the use of preservatives.

[0023] The composition according to the invention is suitable for topical application to the skin. It can be used to clean keratin materials such as the skin, lips or eyelashes and / or to remove makeup from keratin materials. It can be used, for example, on the face, eyes, hands, body or even hair. Preferably, the composition according to the invention is intended to clean the eyes, including the face, including the lips, eyes and eyelashes, and / or to remove makeup therefrom. Advantageously, the composition according to the invention is intended to be rinsed with water.

[0024] Another object of the present invention is the use of a cosmetic composition as defined above for cleaning keratin materials, preferably the face, including the lips, eyes and eyelashes, and / or for removing makeup from keratin materials.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0025] The general terms used herein are defined below.

[0026] The expression "at least one" is equivalent to the expression "one or more".

[0027] The expression "comprising" encompasses the expression "consisting of".

[0028] The expression "from...to..." must be understood as inclusive.

[0029] The expressions "between...and...", "less than" or "greater than" should be understood as excluding the boundaries.

[0030] The name "INCI" refers to the name of a cosmetic ingredient according to the International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients.

[0031] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "cosmetic composition" refers to a composition suitable for topical external application. It includes a cosmetically acceptable support which is a support compatible with keratin materials, in particular the skin (body, face, eye contour, eyelids), lips, and eyelashes. The cosmetic composition according to the present invention is a cleanser and / or makeup remover, preferably a rinse-off product. The cosmetic composition may also include one or more additives including active ingredients, emollients, and fragrances. It can have properties of moisturizing, calming, and / or protecting the skin. It can also promote the repair and strengthening of eyelashes.

[0032] For the purposes of the present invention, "keratin material" means human skin, lips, hair, eyelashes, and nails.

[0033] The term "solid" characterizes the state of the composition at room temperature (25 °C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). This means that the composition has a viscosity high enough to retain its shape during storage. In other words, the composition does not flow under its own weight. The solid state can be specified by the "hardness" of the composition, which defines its resistance to deformation, in particular to penetration by a harder object.

[0034] For the purposes of the present invention, "anhydrous composition" means a composition having a water content of less than 2% by weight, preferably less than 1% by weight, and even more specifically less than 0.5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. In particular, no water is added during the preparation of the composition, and the water content corresponds to the residual water provided by the mixed components.

[0035] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention contains at least 90% of ingredients of natural origin, preferably at least 94% of ingredients of natural origin. More advantageously, the composition according to the invention contains at least 97% of ingredients of natural origin, preferably at least 99% of ingredients of natural origin. Here, the proportion of ingredients of natural origin is calculated according to the principle of the NF ISO16128 standard. Surprisingly, a specific combination of ingredients demonstrated by the inventors makes it possible to combine the sensory, performance, and stability characteristics of compositions obtained using ingredients of synthetic or petrochemical origin, while obtaining a composition with a very high degree of natural origin.

[0036] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "natural" ingredient refers to an ingredient (or substance) that is naturally occurring (obtained from plants, animals, microorganisms or minerals), untransformed, or obtained only from physical processes. For example, the ingredient can be extracted and / or treated by mechanical means, by gravity means, by dissolution in water, by maceration, by water extraction, by distillation, by grinding, by pressure, by flotation, by sedimentation, by filtration, etc. The natural origin index of a natural ingredient determined according to the NF ISO16128 standard is 1 (100% of ingredients of natural origin). Examples of natural ingredients may include water, plant extracts (water or other natural solvents) where the solvents used are natural, parts of plants or seeds, vegetable oils, mineral components, etc.

[0037] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "natural derivative ingredient" refers to a chemically extracted and / or treated natural ingredient that has undergone small amplitude and a limited number of chemical transformations. These transformations and chemical processes can be carried out in accordance with the principles of green chemistry (in contrast to petrochemical processes including petroleum derivatives), for example, as listed in the NF ISO16128 standard. The natural origin index of a "derived natural" ingredient calculated according to the NF ISO16128 standard is greater than 0.5 (i.e., contains a proportion of more than 50% of the molecular mass of natural origin).

[0038] The term "of natural origin" ingredient includes, in the present specification, the "natural" ingredient and the "derived natural" ingredient defined above. The natural origin index of an ingredient of natural origin, calculated according to the NF ISO16128 standard, is greater than 0.5 and less than or equal to 1. In contrast, an ingredient that is synthetic or mainly derived from fossil fuels has a natural origin index of 0.

[0039] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention does not contain synthetic thickeners and / or polyoxyalkylene surfactants. Indeed, the particular combination according to the invention makes it possible to obtain high-performance and stable compositions without the use of these ingredients.

[0040] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "surfactant" or "emulsifier" means any compound or mixture of compounds capable of increasing the dynamic stability of an emulsion. Within the meaning of the present invention, the term refers to amphiphilic compounds, i.e., compounds having both a hydrophilic (polar) part and a lipophilic (non-polar) part, as defined, for example, by the IUPAC. Examples include non-ionic, anionic, cationic, or amphoteric surfactants.

[0041] According to the present invention, the term "polyoxyalkylene surfactant or emulsifier" includes emulsifiers having at least one polyoxyalkylene chain (repeating oxyalkylene units), for example, a chain containing repeating oxyethylene and / or oxypropylene units. The term includes emulsifiers having polyoxyalkylenated side groups and / or end groups, for example, polyoxyethylenated (or polyoxyethylenated, POE) and / or polyoxypropylenated (or polyoxypropylenated, POP).

[0042] The term "synthetic thickener" (also referred to herein as a synthetic gelling agent) within the context of the present invention means a polymer of synthetic origin, which, by its presence, enables the viscosity of the composition into which it is introduced to be increased.

[0043] Unless otherwise specified, the term "free" is understood to mean, within the meaning of the present invention, a content by weight of a substance of 0.2% or less, preferably 0.1% or less, more preferably 0.05% or less, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0044] Preferably, the composition according to the present invention is free of silicone compounds.

[0045] According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the present invention is free of preservatives.

[0046] Advantageously, the composition according to the present invention is in the form of a soft solid.

[0047] "Soft solid" means a texture that does not flow under its own weight but can be deformed by pressure, for example, with a finger. Its consistency is malleable and easy to handle. For example, it can be similar to butter (free of lipids). For example, if the composition is packaged in a jar at room temperature (25°C) and the jar is inverted, the composition will not flow under its own weight for at least 12 hours, preferably at least 24 hours. The composition can be easily shaped by hand and can also be easily broken by hand to remove only the required amount of the product.

[0048] Preferably, the composition according to the present invention has a penetration depth at 20°C in the range of 8 - 25 mm, preferably 8 - 22 mm, more preferably 10 - 22 mm.

[0049] The penetration depth is used to measure the viscosity and / or plasticity of a sample (especially a paste, cream, semi-solid or highly viscous sample). Here, it is measured by the penetration method with a penetration time of 10 seconds using a PNR 12 penetrometer equipped with a 102.5 g SETA ASTM-IP standardized calibration cone (Petrotest reference 18-0101). The test sample (with its surface flattened) is filled into a penetration jar (a screw-top jar with a diameter of 90 mm and a height of 110 mm) and placed in a constant temperature oven at 20 °C for at least 12 hours. The jar is centered relative to the grid on the base support of the penetrometer equipped with the penetration cone. The tip of the penetration cone is adjusted to the sample surface. At the start of the measurement, the cone enters the sample by free fall under its own weight for 10 seconds. The penetration depth is recorded and expressed in mm. The greater the penetration depth, the lower the viscosity of the composition.

[0050] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention can have a dropping point in the range of 55 °C to 75 °C, preferably 57 °C to 70 °C. This is advantageous not only for industrial processing but also for the stability and application of the composition according to the invention.

[0051] The dropping point represents the temperature at which droplets of the molten product fall from a calibrated cup (having a perforated bottom) that is gradually heated in its liquid state. The dropping point is determined according to ASTM-D 3954 using a Metler Toledo DP70 (dropping point system). More precisely, the composition is heated until all components are melted and then poured into the calibrated cup. Before measuring the dropping point, the cup is left at room temperature (25 °C) for at least 20 minutes. Then, the cup is placed in the DP70 meter at a heating rate of 1 °C / min.

[0052] The composition according to the invention may be single-phase or in the form of a dispersion of two immiscible phases.

[0053] The term "single-phase composition" refers to a composition containing only one homogeneous phase. Such a composition is different from a dispersion of two phases (also known as an emulsion) that are immiscible with each other at room temperature and contain a phase (or discontinuous phase) dispersed in the form of droplets in a dispersed phase (known as the continuous phase). A single-phase composition is also different from a two-phase composition composed of two distinct different phases (especially a hydrophilic phase and an oil phase) that require prior agitation to form an emulsion before application.

[0054] The composition according to the present invention can also take the form of a dispersion of two phases that are immiscible with each other at room temperature (25 °C), in particular, a dispersion of a hydrophilic phase (composed of hydrophilic constituents) in a lipophilic phase (or fatty phase). Examples of hydrophilic constituents that can form a hydrophilic phase include short-chain monohydric alcohols, such as C1-C4 (ethanol, isopropanol, etc.), linear or branched polyols containing, for example, 3 to 8 carbon atoms (butylene glycol, glycerol or glycerin, sorbitol, etc.), and mixtures thereof. When the composition according to the present invention is in a dispersed form, the content by weight of the hydrophilic phase is at most 10%, preferably at most 7%, preferably at most 5% with respect to the total weight of the composition.

[0055] Whether the composition is single-phase or in a dispersed form, the macroscopic analysis (by the naked eye) of the composition according to the present invention shows a homogeneous appearance.

[0056] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the present invention is single-phase.

[0057] Polyglyceryl-10 myristate: The composition according to the present invention contains at least 8% by weight of polyglyceryl-10 myristate.

[0058] Polyglyceryl-10 myristate is known as a skin care agent and is also generally used as a non-ionic surfactant for stabilizing oil-in-water emulsions (or O / W emulsions). It is an ester of myristic acid and decaglyceryl (or polyglyceryl containing 10 glycerol units). It can be obtained after the reaction of one (or more) fatty acids (myristic acid, preferably of plant origin) with decaglyceryl (a glycerol homopolymer containing 10 glycerol units), and decaglyceryl itself can be obtained by the condensation of plant glycerin. Thus, it may be a mono, di, tri or polyester of myristic acid and decaglyceryl. Preferably, esters or mixtures of esters with a low degree of esterification are used, for example, decaglyceryl and myristic acid monoesters, diesters or triesters. More preferably, polyglyceryl-10 myristate is the monoester of decaglyceryl and myristic acid (decaglyceryl monomyristate, CAS number 87390-32-7).

[0059] Preferably, polyglyceryl-10 myristate is of natural origin.

[0060] Non-limiting examples of polyglyceryl-10 myristate include products commercially available under the names S FACE M-1001 (manufactured by ROSSOW COSMETIQUES) or SUNSOFT Q-14S-C(MB) (manufactured by Taiyo Kagaku Co., Ltd.).

[0061] The polyglyceryl-10 myristate content by weight in the composition according to the present invention is at least 8% based on the total weight of the composition. Preferably, the polyglyceryl-10 myristate content by weight is at least 10%, preferably at least 12%, more preferably at least 15% based on the total weight of the composition. This makes it possible to combine the improved stability and rinsability of the composition according to the present invention.

[0062] Preferably, the weight-based content of polyglyceryl-10-myristate in the composition according to the present invention is less than 25%, preferably less than 20%, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0063] The composition according to the present invention may further contain at least one surfactant. "Additional surfactant" means a surfactant other than polyglyceryl-10-myristate as defined above. Examples include nonionic, anionic, cationic or amphoteric surfactants. Preferably, at least one additional surfactant is nonionic.

[0064] Advantageously, polyglyceryl-10-myristate is the main surfactant. In other words, if other additional surfactants are present in the composition according to the present invention, the weight-based content of polyglyceryl-10-myristate is higher than the total weight content of the additional surfactants in the composition. That is, the weight content of polyglyceryl-10-myristate corresponds to more than 50% by weight based on the total weight of the surfactants in the composition. For example, in the case of a composition having a 10% by weight content of polyglyceryl-10-myristate, the total weight-based content of the other surfactants present is less than 10% based on the total weight of the composition.

[0065] According to an advantageous embodiment, the composition according to the present invention does not contain polyoxyalkylene surfactants.

[0066] According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the present invention may not contain other nonionic surfactants. In other words, polyglyceryl-10-myristate is the only nonionic surfactant in the composition according to the present invention.

[0067] According to a more specific embodiment, the composition according to the present invention may not contain other surfactants. In other words, polyglyceryl-10-myristate is the only surfactant in the composition according to the present invention, that is, the composition does not contain any other nonionic surfactants nor any ionic surfactants (such as anionic, cationic or amphoteric surfactants).

[0068] Fatty substances: The composition according to the invention contains various fatty substances (liquid and solid).

[0069] The term "fatty substance" within the scope of the present invention means an organic compound that is immiscible with water at room temperature (25 °C) and atmospheric pressure (1.013·10 5 Pa, 760 mmHg). More specifically, the water solubility of such a compound is less than 5% by weight, preferably less than 1% by weight, more preferably less than 0.1% by weight. This type of compound generally has, in its structure, a hydrocarbon chain containing at least 6 carbon atoms or an arrangement of at least 2 siloxane groups. Generally, fatty substances may be hydrocarbon, silicone or fluorinated.

[0070] For the purposes of the present invention, "hydrocarbon" refers to a compound containing at least one hydrocarbon group (i.e., a group containing hydrogen and carbon atoms), and optionally, oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and / or phosphorus atoms. Hydrocarbon compounds may contain, for example, alcohol, ester, ether, carboxylic acid, amine groups and / or amide groups. More specifically, in the context of the present invention, hydrocarbon compounds do not contain silicon or fluorine atoms.

[0071] For the purposes of the present invention, "silicone" means a compound containing at least one silicon atom, in particular, a compound containing at least one Si-O group, such as organopolysiloxane.

[0072] The term "fluorinated" refers to a compound containing at least one fluorine atom.

[0073] In the context of the present invention, fatty substances are preferably hydrocarbon-based fatty substances, especially of natural origin. Preferably, the composition according to the invention does not contain silicone-containing fatty substances and fluorinated fatty substances.

[0074] The fatty substances can be liquid or solid at room temperature (25 °C) and atmospheric pressure (1.013·10 5 Pa, 760 mmHg). Solid fatty substances (or non-liquid fatty substances) are generally used in cosmetic compositions as structuring agents, for example, to add viscosity to the composition or to increase the viscosity of the fatty phase.

[0075] In the context of the present invention, the composition comprises at least one liquid fatty substance selected from hydrocarbon oils, more specifically non-polar hydrocarbon oils, and at least three distinct solid fatty substances as defined below.

[0076] Non-polar liquid (Npl) fatty substances: The composition according to the present invention comprises at least one liquid fatty substance selected from non-polar hydrocarbon oils (Npl).

[0077] "Oil" means a "fatty substance" that is liquid at room temperature (25 °C) and atmospheric pressure (1.013×10 5 Pa, 760 mmHg).

[0078] For the purposes of the present invention, "hydrocarbon oil" means an oil consisting essentially of or composed of carbon and hydrogen atoms, and optionally oxygen and nitrogen atoms, and containing no silicon or fluorine atoms. It may contain, for example, ester groups, ether groups or carbonate groups.

[0079] For the purposes of the present invention, "non-polar oil" means an oil that is non-polar or slightly polar. In particular, the solubility parameter δ at 25 °C a is less than 7 (J / cm 3 ) 1 / 2 of the oil.

[0080] The definition and calculation of solubility parameters in Hansen's three-dimensional solubility space are described in C. M. Hansen: "The three dimensional solubility parameters", J. Paint Technol. 39, 105 (1967). The total solubility parameter δ is decomposed into three components (δ 2 = δ D 2 +δ P 2 +δ H 2 ): - A parameter characterizing the dispersion, δ, related to the London dispersion forces (van der Waals interactions) D - a parameter characterizing the polarity, δ, associated with the Debye interaction between permanent dipoles and the Keesom interaction between induced and permanent dipoles (dipole moment) P - δ, a parameter that characterizes certain other interaction forces (e.g. hydrogen bonds) H .

[0081] Parameter δ a is the formula: δ a =(δ P 2 +δ H 2 ) 1 / 2 It is determined by the parameter δ D , δ P , δ H and δ a is (J / cm 3 ) 1 / 2 In particular, alkanes are expressed as 0 (J / cm 3 ) 1 / 2 The parameter δ is equal to a The WO 2016 / 096628 document also has δ a Example values ​​are given.

[0082] Preferably, the non-polar hydrocarbon oil has an interfacial tension of greater than 30 mM / m at 23°C.

[0083] Interfacial tension (sometimes also referred to as the polarity index or liquid-liquid interfacial tension or IFT) is measured when two immiscible phases (in this case, oil and water) are in contact and is related to the cohesive forces between the molecules within the phases and the intermolecular forces present at the interface between these two phases. It can be affected by the polarity of the molecules. Interfacial tension can be measured by the "pendant drop" method using a Dataphysics OCAH 200 (Dataphysics Instruments GmbH, Germany) as described in the document of International Publication No. WO 2021 / 180922. The value of the oil interfacial tension is also shown in BASF's "Emollient Jockey" numerical tool.

[0084] Examples of non-polar oils that can be used include hydrocarbons containing 6 to 16 carbon atoms, hydrocarbon oils containing more than 16 carbon atoms, monoethers containing at least 12 carbon atoms (containing only one ether group), dialkyl carbonates in which the alkyl group contains at least 6 carbon atoms, and certain fatty monoesters containing at least 16 carbon atoms (or fatty acid and / or fatty alcohol esters containing only one ester group). In the context of the present invention, these examples exclude the corresponding hydroxylated oils, i.e., those containing one or more hydroxyl groups (-OH). Vegetable oils (containing triglycerides and fatty acids), glycerides, fatty alcohols, and silicone oils are also excluded from the definition of non-polar oils.

[0085] Hydrocarbons containing 6 to 16 carbon atoms may be straight-chain or branched-chain and may be of mineral, vegetable or synthetic origin. C6-C16 hydrocarbons are preferably of vegetable origin. They are preferably alkanes. By way of example, n-decane (C10), n-undecane (C11), n-dodecane (C12), n-tridecane (C13), n-tetradecane (C14), n-pentadecane (C15), n-hexadecane (C16), mixtures of alkanes (e.g., undecane and tridecane) may be mentioned. By way of example, oils commercially available as VEGELIGHT SILK (INCI name: C9-C12 alkane) by Biosynthis (France), and oils commercially available as CETIOL ULTIMATE (INCI name: undecane (and) tridecane (and) tocopherol) by BASF (France) may be mentioned.

[0086] Hydrocarbon oils containing more than 16 carbon atoms can be straight-chain or branched-chain, saturated or unsaturated. They can be of mineral, vegetable or synthetic origin, preferably of vegetable origin. One example is squalane (preferably of vegetable origin). Other examples of hydrocarbon oils include paraffin oil, petrolatum oil, polydecene and hydrogenated polyisobutene.

[0087] Usable dialkylated monoether oils have a straight-chain or branched-chain, saturated or unsaturated non-hydroxylated alkyl group containing at least 6 carbon atoms, preferably at least 8 carbon atoms. More specifically, the usable ether compound can have the formula R-O-R', where R and R' are straight-chain or branched-chain, saturated or unsaturated non-hydroxylated alkyl groups containing at least 6 carbon atoms, preferably at least 8 carbon atoms. These may be, for example, fatty acid ethers. More specifically, the alkyl group may contain 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 24 carbon atoms. By way of example, dicaprylyl ether, distearyl ether, diisononyl ether, or mixtures thereof may be mentioned.

[0088] The dialkyl carbonates that can be used have a linear or branched saturated or unsaturated non-hydroxylated alkyl group containing at least 6 carbon atoms, preferably at least 8 carbon atoms. In other words, the carbonate compound that can be used can have the formula R-O-C(O)-O-R', where R and R' are linear or branched saturated or unsaturated non-hydroxylated alkyl groups containing at least 6 carbon atoms, preferably at least 8 carbon atoms. More specifically, the alkyl group may contain 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 24 carbon atoms. Examples include dicaprylyl carbonate, diethylhexyl carbonate, dipropylheptyl carbonate, or mixtures thereof.

[0089] The usable "fatty" monoesters have a single ester group and contain at least 16 carbon atoms. They have at least two linear or branched saturated or unsaturated non-hydroxylated alkyl groups containing at least 6 carbon atoms, preferably at least 8 carbon atoms, more preferably at least 10 carbon atoms. More specifically, the usable ester compounds can have the formula R-C(O)-O-R', where R and R' are independently linear or branched saturated or unsaturated non-hydroxylated alkyl groups containing at least 6 carbon atoms, preferably at least 8 carbon atoms, more preferably at least 10 carbon atoms. Examples include fatty acid esters and / or fatty alcohols. More specifically, the alkyl groups R and R' can independently contain 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 24 carbon atoms. Non-limiting examples of usable monoesters include decyl oleate (INCI name: Decyl Oleate), hexyl decyl stearate (INCI name: Hexyl Decyl Stearate), ethylhexyl stearate (INCI name: Ethylhexyl Stearate), ethylhexyl palmitate (INCI name: Ethylhexyl Palmitate), propylheptyl caprylate (INCI name: Propylheptyl Caprylate), hexyl laurate (Hexyl Laurate), isocetyl laurate, isocetyl stearate, etc.

[0090] Preferably, the non-polar hydrocarbon oil is selected from alkanes containing at least 8 carbon atoms, alkenes containing at least 8 carbon atoms, dialkylated monoethers with an alkyl chain containing at least 6 carbon atoms, dialkylated carbonates with an alkyl chain containing at least 8 carbon atoms, monoesters with an alkyl chain containing at least 8 carbon atoms, and mixtures thereof.

[0091] More preferably, the nonpolar hydrocarbon oil is selected from alkanes containing at least 8 carbon atoms, alkenes containing at least 8 carbon atoms, dialkylated monoethers having an alkyl chain containing at least 8 carbon atoms, dialkylated carbonates having an alkyl chain containing at least 8 carbon atoms, and mixtures thereof.

[0092] Advantageously, the nonpolar hydrocarbon oil is selected from alkanes containing at least 8 carbon atoms, alkenes containing at least 8 carbon atoms, dialkylated monoethers having an alkyl chain containing at least 8 carbon atoms, and mixtures thereof.

[0093] Preferably, the nonpolar hydrocarbon oil (Npl) is of plant origin.

[0094] The weight content of the nonpolar hydrocarbon oil (Npl) in the composition according to the present invention may be at least 10%, preferably at least 15%, preferably at least 20%, and most preferably at least 25% based on the total weight of the composition.

[0095] Furthermore, the weight content of the nonpolar hydrocarbon oil (Npl) in the composition according to the present invention may be at most 40%, preferably at most 30% based on the total weight of the composition.

[0096] Preferably, the weight content of the nonpolar hydrocarbon oil (Npl) in the composition according to the present invention is 15% to 40%, preferably 20% to 30% based on the total weight of the composition. This makes it possible to combine better stability and sensuality of the composition.

[0097] Solid fat substances: The composition according to the present invention comprises at least three solid fat substances, at least one first solid fat substance (S1) having a melting point of less than -30°C, at least one second solid fat substance (S2) having a melting point in the range of -30°C to 40°C, - at least one third solid fatty substance (S3) having a melting point of at least 60°C.

[0098] A "solid fatty substance" (or "non-liquid fatty substance") means a compound that is solid or substantially solid at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (1.013×10 5 Pa, 760 mmHg). The solid fatty substance can be crystalline, amorphous or pasty. These can be compounds having a melting point above 25°C, or compounds having both a liquid fraction and a solid fraction at 25°C. Examples of solid fatty substances include solid fatty acids, solid fatty alcohols (such as myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, etc.), solid fatty acid and / or fatty alcohol esters (e.g., octyldodecyl behenate, isocetyl behenate, cetyl lactate, stearyl octanoate, octyl octanoate, etc.), solid fatty ethers, ceramides, solid mono-, di- or triglycerides, waxes, or pasty fatty substances (e.g., butter). These can be, for example, waxes or pasty fatty substances.

[0099] The term "wax" means a solid compound at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (1.013×10 5 Pa, 760 mmHg), with a reversible solid / liquid state change and having a melting point above about 45°C. Waxes generally exhibit an anisotropic crystal structure in the solid state. Generally, waxes can be of plant origin (such as sunflower, rice, candellila, hydrogenated castor oil, cork or sugarcane fiber wax, etc.), animal (such as beeswax, lanolin wax, lanolin derivatives, etc.), mineral (such as paraffin, petrolatum, ozokerite, lignite, ceresin, microcrystalline wax, etc.) or synthetic (such as polyolefins like polyethylene wax, polyalphaolefin, hydrogenated polyisobutene, etc.).

[0100] For the purposes of the present invention, a "pasty fatty substance" refers to a fatty substance having a reversible solid / liquid state change and containing a liquid fraction and a solid fraction at a temperature of 25°C and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). For example, the solid fraction of a pasty compound measured at 25°C can correspond to 10 to 90% by weight of the compound. In other words, the initial melting temperature of the pasty compound may be less than 25°C. The pasty compound may also have an end melting temperature, which can be, for example, less than 60°C. For the purposes of the present invention, the end melting temperature corresponds to the temperature at which 95% of the sample has melted. The measurement of the melting temperature and the determination of the end melting temperature can be carried out according to the protocol described in the document of International Publication No. 2020 / 127383. The pasty compound may have an anisotropic crystal structure in the solid state.

[0101] The melting point of the solid fatty substance can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example, a calorimeter sold under the name "DSC Q100" by TA Instruments equipped with "TA Universal Analysis" software. The document of International Publication No. 2022 / 003026 describes applicable measurement protocols depending on whether the solid fatty substance is a wax or a pasty compound.

[0102] A first solid fatty substance (S1) having a melting point of less than 30°C: The composition according to the present invention comprises at least one first solid fatty substance having a melting point of less than 30°C, preferably less than or equal to 28°C. This provides a smooth and creamy texture to the solid composition according to the present invention. For example, the solid fatty substance may have a melting point of 20°C to 30°C, preferably 22°C to 28°C. It may be, for example, a pasty fatty substance (containing both a liquid fraction and a solid fraction at 25°C) or a compound (or a mixture of compounds) having a melting point of 25°C to 30°C (for example, solid fatty acids, solid fatty alcohols, solid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols, mixtures of such fatty substances, etc.). Preferably, the first solid fatty substance is a pasty fatty substance.

[0103] Preferably, the first solid fat substance is of natural origin.

[0104] Examples of the first solid fat substance (S1) that can be used include a paste-like solid commercially available from LABORATOIRES PROD’HYG (France) under the name of "HYDROBASE® 24 / 26" (INCI name: COCOS NUCIFERA (coconut) oil), or a paste-like solid sold by DUBOIS STEARINERIE S.A. (France) under the name of DUB SOLIDE (INCI name: stearyl heptanoate (and) stearyl caprylate and melting point of about 23°C to 27°C).

[0105] In the composition according to the present invention, the weight content of the solid fat substance (S1) having a melting point of less than 30°C can be at least 5%, preferably at least 10%, more preferably at least 15% based on the total weight of the composition.

[0106] The weight content of the solid fat substance (S1) having a melting point of less than 30°C can be at most 30%, preferably at most 25%, more preferably at most 20% based on the total weight of the composition.

[0107] Preferably, the weight content of the solid fat substance (S1) having a melting point of less than 30°C is 5% to 30%, preferably 10% to 25% based on the total weight of the composition. This makes it possible to combine better stability and sensory properties of the composition.

[0108] The second solid fat substance (S2) having a melting point of 30°C to 40°C: The composition according to the invention comprises at least one second solid fatty substance having a melting point in the range of 30°C to 40°C, preferably 30°C to 37°C. This may be, for example, a pasty fatty substance (containing both a liquid fraction and a solid fraction at 25°C) or a compound having a corresponding melting point (e.g., solid fatty acids, solid fatty alcohols, solid fatty acids, and / or fatty alcohol esters, mixtures of such fatty substances, etc.). Preferably, the second solid fatty substance is a pasty fatty substance.

[0109] Preferably, the second solid fatty substance is of natural origin.

[0110] Examples of second solid fatty substances (S2) that can be used include shea butter (INCI name: BUTYROSPERMUM PARKII (shea) butter), mango butter (INCI name: MANGIFERA INDICA seed butter), cocoa butter (INCI name: THEOBROMA CACAO (cocoa) seed butter and melting point of about 33°C to 38°C), kokum butter (INCI name: GARCINIA INDICA seed butter), a pasty solid commercially available from LABORATOIRES PROD’HYG (France) under the name "HYDROBASE® 32 / 34" (INCI name: hydrogenated palm oil and melting point of about 32°C to 34°C), and more generally, vegetable butters having a melting point in the range of 30°C to 40°C.

[0111] In the composition according to the invention, the weight content of the solid fatty substance (S2) having a melting point in the range of 30°C to 40°C can be at least 10%, preferably at least 15%, more preferably at least 20% based on the total weight of the composition.

[0112] The weight content of the solid fatty substance (S2) having a melting point in the range of 30°C to 40°C can be at most 40%, preferably at most 30% based on the total weight of the composition.

[0113] Preferably, the weight content of the solid fat substance (S2) having a melting point in the range of 30°C to 40°C is 10% to 40%, preferably 15% to 40%, more preferably 20% to 30% based on the total weight of the composition. This makes it possible to combine better stability and sensory properties of the composition.

[0114] A third solid fat substance (S3) having a melting point of at least 60°C: The composition according to the present invention comprises at least one third solid fat substance having a melting point of at least 60°C, preferably 60°C to 100°C. This may be, for example, a wax or a compound having a corresponding melting point (such as a solid fatty acid, a solid fatty alcohol, a solid ester of a fatty acid and / or a fatty alcohol, etc.).

[0115] According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the present invention may comprise a mixture of a plurality of solid fat substances having a melting point in the range of at least 60°C, preferably 60°C to 100°C.

[0116] Preferably, the solid fat substance (S3) used has a melting point in the range of 60°C to 90°C. This is advantageous for the implementation of the method for preparing the composition according to the present invention, particularly with regard to the heating temperature and energy required for preparing the composition according to the present invention.

[0117] Preferably, at least one third solid fat substance having a melting point of at least 60°C is of natural origin.

[0118] Non-limiting examples of the third solid fat substance (S3) include the following.

[0119] - Animal or vegetable waxes, such as beeswax, synthetic beeswax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, lanolin wax, rice bran wax, ouricury wax, esparto wax, berry wax, shellac wax, cork fiber wax, sugarcane wax, wood wax, sumac wax, montan wax, orange and lemon wax, laurel wax, hydrogenated jojoba wax, sunflower wax, such as those sold by KAHL GMBH & Co. KG (Germany) under the name Kahlwax 6607L (INCI name: HELIANTHUS ANNUUS seed wax), with a melting point of about 74°C to 80°C, - Waxes obtained by hydrogenation of animal or vegetable oils, such as hydrogenated castor oil (INCI name: hydrogenated castor oil, melting point about 85°C to 88°C), waxes sold by BASF under the name Cegesoft® HF 62 (INCI name: hydrogenated vegetable oil, melting point about 60°C to 63°C), - Solid compounds (having a melting point of at least 60°C), fatty alcohols (e.g., cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, etc.), fatty acids (e.g., palmitic acid, stearic acid, myristic acid, lauric acid, etc.), fatty esters (e.g., glyceryl behenate), or mixtures thereof.

[0120] In the composition according to the invention, the weight content of the solid fat substance (S3) having a melting point of at least 60°C can be at least 5%, preferably at least 8%, more preferably at least 10% based on the total weight of the composition.

[0121] The weight content of the solid fat substance (S3) having a melting point of at least 60°C can be at most 20%, preferably at most 15% based on the total weight of the composition.

[0122] Preferably, the weight content of the solid fat substance (S3) having a melting point of at least 60°C is 5% to 40%, preferably 8% to 40%, more preferably 10% to 15% based on the total weight of the composition. This makes it possible to combine better stability and sensory properties of the composition.

[0123] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least two solid fatty substances (S3) having a melting point of at least 60° C., one of which (S3a) has a melting point above 80° C., preferably between 80° C. and 90° C. This improves the stability and feel of the molten composition according to the invention.

[0124] The weight content of the solid fatty substance (S3a) having a melting point above 80° C. can be at least 0.5%, preferably at least 1%, more preferably at least 1.5% with respect to the total weight of the composition.

[0125] The weight content of the solid fatty substance (S3a) having a melting point above 80° C. can be at most 5%, preferably at most 4%, more preferably at most 3% with respect to the total weight of the composition.

[0126] Preferably, the weight content of the solid fatty substance (S3a) having a melting point above 80° C. is from 0.5% to 5%, preferably from 0.5% to 4%, more preferably from 1% to 3%, even better from 1.5% to 3% with respect to the total weight of the composition. This makes it possible to combine better stability and feel of the composition.

[0127] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the ratio of the weight content of the solid fatty substance (S2) having a melting point between 30° C. and 40° C. to the weight content of the solid fatty substance (S3) having a melting point of at least 60° C. is from 1 / 1 to 3 / 1, preferably from 1.5 / 1 to 3 / 1, more preferably from 1.5 / 1 to 2 / 1.

[0128] Additional compounds: The composition according to the invention may further comprise one or more formulation agents, in particular conventional active ingredients or cosmetic excipients.

[0129] These formulation agents can be appropriately selected according to the use of the composition of the invention.

[0130] Non-limiting examples of the formulation agents include organic solvents (e.g., alcohols and polyols), hydrophilic or lipophilic rheology agents (thickeners or gelling agents), softeners, moisturizers, opacifiers, stabilizers, emollients, defoamers, film-forming agents, emulsifiers, surfactants (anionic, cationic, non-ionic or amphoteric), fillers (e.g., matte powders, soft focus active touch powders, etc.), UV filters (or light protectants, organic and / or inorganic, active against UVA and / or UVB), colorants, chelating agents, alkalizing agents or acidifying agents, pH adjusters, preservatives, fragrances, or any other components commonly used in the cosmetic field and / or dermatological field. The amounts of these various compounds are those conventionally used in the field under consideration. These compounds can be introduced into the fatty phase or into the hydrophilic phase dispersed in the fatty phase, depending on their properties.

[0131] The composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one active ingredient. Examples of active ingredients may include, for example, the following: - anti-staining agents and / or anti-radical agents and / or antioxidants (coenzyme Q10 or ubiquinone), - brightening agents, depigmenting agents, coloring accelerators and / or color equalizers, - anti-aging agents, - tensioning agents or anti-wrinkle agents such as plant proteins and their hydrolysates (e.g., soybean protein extract), - moisturizers (polyols, e.g., glycerin, etc.), - anti-inflammatory agents (such as glycyrrhetinic acid and its salts), - agents for calming the skin (allantoin, bisabolol, chamomile water), - anti-seborrheic agents, - anti-microbial agents or antibacterial agents (such as salicylic acid), - tensioning agents, - hardening agents, - Vitamins and provitamins (for example, retinol or vitamin A, ascorbic acid or vitamin C, tocopherol or vitamin E, niacinamide or vitamin PP or B3, panthenol or vitamin B5, biotin or vitamin B8, and derivatives thereof, for example, esters of these vitamins, etc.), - Essential oils.

[0132] The composition according to the invention may further contain additional fatty substances. The additional fatty substances are fatty substances other than those defined above. They may include polar oils and / or solid fatty substances other than those defined above (other than S1, S2 and S3).

[0133] Examples of additional fatty substances include vegetable oils (triglycerides, fatty acids), glycerides, fatty alcohols, fatty esters (or esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols different from the aforementioned fatty esters), and mixtures thereof.

[0134] Vegetable oils can be selected from triglycerides such as caprylic / capric triglyceride. Non-limiting examples of vegetable oils include sweet almond oil, macadamia oil, hazelnut oil, peanut oil, sesame oil, walnut oil, argan oil, jojoba oil, calendula oil, apricot oil, sunflower oil, olive oil, corn oil, soybean oil, hemp oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, coconut oil, pumpkin seed oil, grape seed oil, arara oil, castor oil, avocado oil, mirabelle plum oil, shea butter oil and mixtures thereof.

[0135] Glycerides are glycerol esters with one (monoglyceride) or more (diglyceride and triglyceride) fatty acids. They may be of natural origin (for example, triglycerides of capric / caprylic acid) or synthetic (for example, triglycerides of heptanoic acid or octanoic acid). Preferably, the glycerides are of natural origin.

[0136] The fatty alcohols suitable for the implementation of the present invention may more specifically be selected from saturated or unsaturated linear or branched alcohols containing at least 6 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 30 carbon atoms. Non-limiting examples include cetyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and mixtures thereof (cetyl stearyl alcohol), octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, oleyl alcohol or linoleyl alcohol. In the context of the present invention, the fatty alcohols that can be used as fatty substances are preferably of natural origin.

[0137] The "fatty" esters contain at least 6 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 30 carbon atoms, and in particular have at least one linear or branched saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon group optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups. They can be selected optionally from esters of hydroxylated fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols. These esters, which are different from the aforementioned triglycerides, may in particular be selected from esters of saturated or unsaturated linear or branched C1-C26 aliphatic monoacids or polyacids, and esters of saturated or unsaturated linear or branched C1-C26 aliphatic monoalcohols or polyalcohols, and the total number of carbon atoms of the esters is 6 or more. Non-limiting examples of fatty acid and / or fatty alcohol esters include linoleyl lactate, methyl acetyl ricinoleate, ethyl palmitate, isopropyl myristate, butyl myristate, butyl stearate, isobutyl stearate, isopropyl stearate, or isopropyl isostearate, isostearyl lactate, diisopropyl adipate, etc.

[0138] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one liquid fatty substance. The term "additional liquid fatty substance" (also known as "additional oil") refers to an oil other than the non-polar hydrocarbon oil (Npl) defined above. For example, they may be polar oils. The at least one additional liquid fatty substance may be selected from vegetable oils, glycerides (including triglycerides), fatty esters, and mixtures thereof.

[0139] Advantageously, when the composition according to the invention comprises at least one additional oil (or additional liquid fatty substance), the weight content of the non-polar hydrocarbon oil (Npl) is higher than the weight content of each additional oil. More preferably, at least one non-polar hydrocarbon oil (Npl) predominates. In other words, when the composition according to the invention comprises at least one additional liquid fatty substance, the total weight content of the non-polar hydrocarbon oil (Npl) is higher than the total weight content of the additional liquid fatty substances. That is, the weight content of the non-polar hydrocarbon oil (Npl) corresponds to more than 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the liquid fatty substances in the composition.

[0140] The weight content of the additional fatty substance, preferably the liquid fatty substance, can be at most 20%, preferably at most 15%, more preferably at most 10% relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0141] Based on their knowledge in cosmetics, those skilled in the art can select their amounts according to the desired properties without significantly changing the formulating agents to be added to the composition according to the invention and the effects associated with the composition according to the invention, in particular the efficacy, stability, and feel of the composition.

[0142] Use: Another object of the invention is the use of the composition according to the invention for cleaning keratin materials, preferably the skin, lips, eye contour, and eyelashes, and / or removing makeup from keratin materials.

[0143] Another object of the invention is the use of the composition according to the invention for cleaning the face, including the lips, eyes, and eyelashes, and / or removing makeup from the face.

[0144] Another object of the present invention is a non-therapeutic cosmetic method for cleaning keratin materials, which comprises the steps of applying the composition according to the present invention to keratin materials, particularly the face, and rinsing the keratin materials, particularly those on the face, with water. This is a non-therapeutic cosmetic method.

Examples

[0145] The present invention is shown in more detail by the following non-limiting examples. The compounds or raw materials used are named by their INCI names. Unless otherwise specified, the indicated percentages are by mass. The abbreviation "n.d." means "undetermined".

[0146] The compositions according to Examples 1 to 16 are prepared according to the procedures described below at the percentages shown as % in Tables 1 to 4 below. The various compositions are also evaluated based on their functional properties (appearance, color, fragrance), their stability over time, their application properties, and their performance (efficacy).

[0147] In Tables 1 to 4 below, - The terms "invention (Inv.)" or "comparison (Comp.)" refer to the "composition according to the present invention" or "comparison" composition (outside the present invention), respectively. - The terms "surf.", "pres.", "mois.", and "pol. o." refer to component types and mean "surfactant", "preservative", "humectant", and "polar oil", respectively. - The left column titled "P" indicates the phase in which the component is present. - The reference in parentheses (next to the INCI name of the compound) indicates the trade name of the raw material used containing these components. The details of these raw materials are shown below. (1) S FACE M 1001 (INCI name: Polyglyceryl-10 myristate), sold by ROSSOW. (2) DERMOFEEL G 10 LW 70 MB (INCI name: Polyglyceryl-10 laurate), sold by EVONIK GMBH. (3) CITHROL 10 GTIS (INCI name: PEG-20 glyceryl triisostearate), sold by the company. (4) Dub MCT 5545 (INCI name: Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride), sold by DUBOIS. (5) HYDROBASE 24-26 (INCI name: Cocos nucifera (coconut) oil), sold by PROD’HYG LABORATOIRES S.A. (6) HYDROBASE 32-34 (INCI name: hydrogenated coconut oil), sold by PROD’HYG LABORATOIRES S.A. (10) Triglyceride C16-C24 (INCI name: hydrogenated vegetable oil), sold by BASF. (11) KAHLWAX 6607L (INCI name: Helianthus annuus (sunflower) seed wax (and) ascorbyl palmitate (and) tocopherol (and) helianthus annuus (sunflower) seed oil), sold by INGRETECH. (12) Hydrogenated castor oil (INCI name: hydrogenated castor oil), sold by BASF. (13) ACTICIRE (INCI name: jojoba esters (and) polyglycerin-3 (and) acacia decurrens flower wax (and) helianthus annuus (sunflower) seed wax), sold by GATTEFOSSE FRANCE SAS. (14) CETIOL CC (INCI name: dicaprylyl carbonate (and) tocopherol), sold by BASF. (15) VEGELIGHT SILK (INCI name: C9-12 alkane), sold by BIOSYNTHIS (France). (16) CETIOL C5C (INCI name: coco-caprylate / caprate (and) tocopherol), sold by BASF. (17) BELSIL DM 5 (INCI name: dimethicone), sold by WACKER. (18) Refined sunflower oil (INCI name: Helianthus annuus (sunflower) seed oil), sold by OLISUD. (19) CETIOL OE (INCI name: dicaprylyl ether (and) tocopherol), sold by BASF. (20) Fair trade organic shea butter (INCI name: Butyrospermum parkii (shea) butter), sold by OLVEA SAS. (21) Castor oil (INCI name: Ricinus communis (castor) seed oil), sold by BERTIN. (23) LEXGARD O (INCI name: caprylyl glycol), sold by INOLEX. (24) Tocopherol acetate (INCI name: tocopheryl acetate), sold by BASF. (25) COVIOX T70C (INCI name: tocopherol), sold by BASF. (26) VELSAN SC (INCI name: sorbitan caprylate), sold by CLARIANT. (27) Wilfarin EP997 (INCI name: glycerin), sold by WILMAR. (28) CELLULOBEADS USF (INCI name: cellulose), sold by Daito Kasei Europe. (29) TAPIOCA PURE (INCI name: tapioca starch), sold by QUIMICA MASSO SA. (30) RHEANCE ONE (INCI name: glycolipid (and) water (aqua) / water (water) / water (eau) (and) sodium benzoate), sold by EVONIK GMBH. (31) LEXGARD GMCY MB (INCI name: glyceryl caprylate), sold by INOLEX. (32) D-panthenol 75 L (INCI name: panthenol (and) water (aqua) / water (water) / water (eau)), sold by DSM NUTRITIONAL PRODUCTS EUROPE LTD.

[0148]

Table 1

[0149] Comparative Compositions 1 and 2 differ from Composition 3 according to the present invention in that they do not contain the same emulsifier. The stability tests carried out according to the following procedure show that these comparative compositions are not stable. In particular, Composition 2, which is very similar to Composition 3 according to the present invention (wherein polyglyceryl 10-laurate emulsifier is used instead of polyglyceryl 10-myristate), is unstable (oil release on the surface). Furthermore, it forms aggregates during rinsing. In contrast, surprisingly, Composition 3 according to the present invention (containing 15% polyglyceryl-10-myristate) and Composition 4 according to the present invention (containing 10% polyglyceryl-10-myristate) are stable at 50 °C for 1 month and in temperature cycles.

[0150]

Table 2

[0151] Comparative Composition 5, which does not contain a solid fatty substance (S3) having a melting point of at least 60 °C, is not stable. Comparative Compositions 6 - 8 differ from the compositions according to the present invention in that the non-polar oil is replaced by a relatively polar oil (silicone oil for Composition 6, sunflower oil for Composition 7, and jojoba oil for Composition 8). Composition 6 is stable for 24 hours, but forms aggregates when rinsed with water and is difficult to remove during rinsing (as described below), and is inappropriate, so its stability over time has not been studied. Composition 7 containing sunflower oil is stable, but the potency tests detailed below show that this composition does not function well enough for makeup removal. Furthermore, it leaves an oily film-like sensation on the skin. Finally, the stability tests show that Composition 8 is not stable (surface oil release).

[0152]

Table 3

[0153] Compositions 9 - 12 are further examples of the compositions according to the present invention. In particular, Compositions 9 and 10 contain other non - polar oils (dialkyl ether oil and dialkyl carbonate oil). Composition 12 according to the present invention is another example of a composition containing 8% of polyglyceryl 10 - myristate.

[0154]

Table 4

[0155] Compositions 13 - 15 are further examples of compositions that further contain powders (cellulose and tapioca starch powder to give the composition a soft, powdery feel). The stability tests show that these compositions are stable despite the presence of these powders.

[0156] Composition 15 is an example of a composition that further contains 5% glycerin and is thus in the form of a dispersion of the hydrophilic phase (glycerin) in the lipophilic phase. The stability tests show that Composition 15 is stable despite the presence of glycerin and cellulose powder.

[0157] Procedure for Compositions 1 - 4 and 11 (containing non - polar alkane oil): Phase A is prepared by melting the corresponding mixture of components in a water bath at 85°C with Rayneri stirring with a kinetic - static blade at 1000 rpm (revolutions per minute) until the mixture is completely melted. Once the Phase A mixture is melted, it is cooled under a rotor - stator while stirring at 1000 rpm (revolutions per minute).

[0158] When the resulting mixture (Phase A) reaches a temperature of 65°C, Phase B (non - polar alkane oil) is added dropwise. Then, the stirring is increased to 2500 rpm until a temperature of 63°C is reached.

[0159] When the resulting mixture (Phases A and B) reaches a temperature of 63°C, the previously mixed Phase C is added and stirring is maintained for 10 minutes.

[0160] Next, pour the obtained mixture into a container (such as a jar).

[0161] A solid off-white composition (500 g) with a thick, smooth, and homogeneous balm texture is obtained.

[0162] Procedure for Composition 12 (containing non-polar alkane oil and glycolipid): Phase A is prepared by melting the corresponding mixture of components in a water bath at 85 °C under Rayneri stirring with a moving and stationary blade. Once the mixture of Phase A has melted, while stirring at 1000 rpm (revolutions per minute), cool it under a rotor-stator and dropwise add Phase B (non-polar alkane oil).

[0163] Once the obtained mixture (Phases A and B) reaches 62 °C, increase the stirring to 1200 rpm until it reaches 60 °C.

[0164] Next, add Phase D (glycolipid emulsifier) and Phase C (perfume) to the previous mixture and stir the whole at 2000 rpm for 5 minutes.

[0165] Next, pour the obtained mixture into a container (such as a jar), and the temperature of the mixture is about 59 °C.

[0166] A solid off-white composition (500 g) with a thick, smooth, and homogeneous balm texture is obtained.

[0167] Procedure for Compositions 5 - 10 and 13 - 16 (containing non-polar oils other than alkane oil): Mix the components of Phase A with Phase B and heat the whole to 85 °C in a water bath, and melt the mixture under Rayneri stirring with a moving and stationary blade until the components are completely melted. Once the mixture (Phases A and B) has melted, while stirring at 1000 rpm (revolutions per minute), let it cool under a rotor-stator.

[0168] Once the resulting mixture reaches a temperature of 60°C, increase the stirring to 2500 rpm (the viscosity and temperature of the mixture gradually increase during stirring). Maintain the stirring at 2500 rpm until the temperature reaches 67°C. Then, reduce the stirring to 1200 rpm and cool the mixture several times.

[0169] If applicable (for compositions containing Phase C component): Once the resulting mixture reaches a temperature of 58°C, add the previously mixed Phase C and increase the stirring to 2000 rpm for 15 minutes.

[0170] Next, pour the resulting mixture into a container (such as a jar).

[0171] An off-white solid composition (500 g) is obtained.

[0172] Evaluation method: Measurement of penetration depth: The penetration depth is measured using the above-mentioned measuring device after storing the solid composition in an oven at 20°C for 24 hours after it is obtained. The values of the penetration depth are shown in Tables 1 - 4.

[0173] Evaluation of stability The stability of the solid composition is studied after storage under various conditions, especially under accelerated aging conditions for 1 month in a constant temperature oven at 50°C. For each composition, five glass vials are tested for stability: in the dark, at room temperature (RT), and in temperature-controlled tests in the dark at 4°C for 3 months, at 40°C for 3 months, at 50°C for 1 month, and for 1 month with a temperature cycle (automatic temperature cycle from -10°C to 25°C every 12 hours). After storing for a certain time (t) under these various conditions, the quality and color of the samples are evaluated by sensory analysis of the samples (appearance, color, and aroma). The sensory evaluation consists of evaluating the overall visual characteristics (color, sedimentation, granularity, surface oil release, hardness, and / or viscosity over time) and the aroma of the samples after storage compared to the control composition stored in the dark at 4°C.

[0174] The stability results after storage under accelerated conditions at 50 °C (enumerated in Tables 1 to 4 above) indicate that comparative compositions 1 and 2 without a specific emulsifier are unstable (release at the end of production). For comparative compositions 6 to 8 without non-polar oil, the stability is impaired and / or makeup removal is insufficient. Different from the comparative compositions, the compositions according to the invention are stable and homogeneous (no oil release or seepage phenomenon, no grain formation) and maintain a thick balm-like texture over time. Furthermore, they also remain homogeneous after comminution of the composition.

[0175] Evaluation of performance and sensory properties: For compositions 3, 6, 7, 9 and 10, a panel of 10 experts evaluated the cleaning and rinsing efficacy and sensory properties. These compositions differ only in the type of oil used (same % of ingredients).

[0176] These evaluations are carried out after applying waterproof mascara to an area measuring 5 cm × 2 cm on the inner side of the forearm. The skin of the forearm is cleaned with liquid soap and water and wiped with a tissue. The composition to be tested (2 g of product) is applied to the makeup-covered skin using a spatula. Ten circular movements (10 revolutions in 10 seconds) are performed with two fingers and the effects are evaluated as follows.

[0177] - The efficiency of cleaning or makeup removal (the ability of the product to soften on the skin, separate the makeup and / or dissolve it) is visually evaluated on a scale of 1 (insufficient dissolution and / or insufficient efficacy, makeup adheres to the skin, long rubbing required to remove the makeup) to 5 (good softening, very good efficacy, makeup falls off the skin). - Appearance of conversion to an emulsion during rinsing: Place the forearm under a thin stream of water and record the moment when the product becomes most whitened. The whitening potential is evaluated on a scale of 1 (no conversion) to 5 (strong white conversion upon contact with water). - The rinsing efficacy is evaluated on a scale of 1 (difficult to rinse off, long friction required to remove the composition with water) to 5 (very easy and rapid to rinse off). The greasy finish feel is evaluated on a scale of 1 (no greasy feel after rinsing) to 5 (very present greasy and oily feel on the skin after rinsing).

[0178] Table 5 shows the results of taking the average of 10 expert panelists.

[0179] Results:

[0180]

Table 5

[0181] In conclusion, Compositions 3, 9 and 10 according to the invention comprising the specific combinations recited in the claims make it possible to reconcile all the required characteristics such as stability, a solid but flexible consistency, make-up removal performance (even for difficult-to-remove make-up), rinsing performance and the feel upon easy melting application of the product to the skin. Furthermore, the compositions according to the invention are easy to remove (just the right amount of solid is easily picked up with a spatula, spoon or finger), are soft, non-sticky and have a non-pasty texture ("clean" removal). Finally, the compositions according to the invention leave the feel of the skin soft after rinsing, without an oily film, dry or tight feeling.

[0182] Thus, the specific combination of ingredients according to the invention makes it possible to obtain a soft, smooth solid composition with a high degree of natural origin while exhibiting the required sensory and stability characteristics.

Claims

1. An anhydrous solid cosmetic composition, a) At least 8% by weight of polyglyceryl-10-myristate relative to the total weight of the composition, b) At least one liquid fatty substance selected from nonpolar hydrocarbon oils, c) At least one first solid fatty substance having a melting point of less than 30°C, d) At least one second solid fatty substance having a melting point in the range of 30°C to 40°C, e) An anhydrous solid cosmetic composition comprising at least one third solid fatty substance having a melting point of at least 60°C.

2. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein the needle penetration depth at 20°C is in the range of 8 to 25 mm.

3. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein the composition is single-phase.

4. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein the polyglyceryl-10-myristate content by weight is at least 10%, preferably at least 12%, and more preferably at least 15%, relative to the total weight of the composition.

5. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1, further comprising at least one additional surfactant, wherein the polyglyceryl-10-myristate content is greater than the total weight content of the additional surfactants in the composition.

6. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein the nonpolar hydrocarbon oil is selected from an alkane containing at least eight carbon atoms, an alkene containing at least eight carbon atoms, a dialkylated monoether whose alkyl chain contains at least six carbon atoms, a dialkylated carbonate whose alkyl chain contains at least eight carbon atoms, a monoester whose alkyl chain contains at least eight carbon atoms, and a mixture thereof.

7. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1, further comprising at least one additional liquid fatty substance, wherein the total weight content of nonpolar hydrocarbon oil is greater than the total weight content of the additional liquid fatty substance in the composition.

8. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein the weight content of a first solid fatty substance having a melting point of less than 30°C is 5% to 30%, preferably 10% to 25%, relative to the total weight of the composition.

9. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein the weight content of a second solid fatty substance having a melting point of 30°C to 40°C is 10% to 40%, preferably 15% to 40%, relative to the total weight of the composition.

10. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein the weight content of a third solid fatty substance having a melting point above 60°C is 5% to 20%, preferably 8% to 15%, relative to the total weight of the composition.

11. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1, comprising at least two solid fatty substances having a melting point of at least 60°C, one of which has a melting point exceeding 80°C.

12. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein the ratio of the weight content of a second solid fatty substance having a melting point of 30°C to 40°C to the weight content of a third solid fatty substance having a melting point of at least 60°C is 1:3, preferably 1.5:3, based on the total weight of the composition.

13. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein the composition does not contain a synthetic thickener and / or a polyoxyalkylene surfactant.

14. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1, comprising at least 90% of naturally derived ingredients according to NF ISO 16128.

15. Use of a keratin material, preferably a cosmetic composition defined above, for cleansing the face, including the lips, eyes, and eyelashes, and / or removing makeup from the face.