A care and / or makeup composition comprising one or more pigments

Abstract

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition, preferably a anhydrous cosmetic composition, for caring for and / or making up keratinous substances, in particular the skin, eyelids, eyebrows or lips, comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, a) a silicone-polyurethane polymer, b) one or more pigments, preferably treated with a lipophilic agent, and c) a (C8 - C20) alkyl PEG-n tris(trimethylsiloxy)silyl-(C1 - C4) alkyldimethylconesurfactant (where n ranges from 3 to 20, preferably from 8 to 12, the (C8 - C20) alkyl chain is a saturated straight or branched, preferably straight hydrocarbon chain having 8 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 14 carbon atoms, and the (C1 - C4) alkyl chain is a saturated straight or branched, preferably straight hydrocarbon chain having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, preferably 2 carbon atoms).

Description

Technical Field

[0001] The present invention relates to the field of cosmetics and relates to a cosmetic composition for caring for and / or making up keratinous substances (especially the skin, eyelids, eyebrows or lips).

Background Art

[0002] Skin and / or lip care and / or makeup products aimed at beautifying and / or coloring the skin and / or lips are widespread. Products in liquid, semi-liquid or solid form are particularly well known. For performance in terms of persistence (non-transfer: or not color-transferring or not easily falling off) and comfort during application, film-forming polymers, volatile oils, gelling agents or fat-phase structuring agents, and fillers are commonly used to improve the texture and / or feel of the deposit (or adhesion or application). However, in skin care or makeup compositions, when pigments are used in combination with other components, especially film-forming polymers, color inhomogeneities such as color flow or marbling may occur in the composition.

[0003] The applicant has observed in particular that compositions containing silicone polyurethane polymers and pigments may have color inhomogeneities such as color flow and / or marbling, especially in stick compositions. Therefore, it is required to improve the homogeneity of the composition, and it has been demonstrated that the use of an alkyl PEG-n tris(trimethylsiloxy)silyl-(C1-C4) alkyldimethylconesiloxane surfactant defined according to the present invention can meet this need.

Summary of the Invention

[0004] Accordingly, a first gist of the present invention is a cosmetic composition for caring for and / or making up keratinous substances, in particular the skin, eyelids, eyebrows or lips, comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, a) a silicone polyurethane polymer, b) one or more pigments, preferably treated to be lipophilic, and c) a (C8-C20)alkyl PEG-n tris(trimethylsiloxy)silyl-(C1-C4)alkyl dimethicone surfactant (wherein n ranges from 3 to 20, preferably from 8 to 12, (C8-C20)alkyl chain is a saturated straight-chain or branched, preferably straight-chain hydrocarbon chain having 8 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 14 carbon atoms, (C1-C4)alkyl chain is a saturated straight-chain or branched, preferably straight-chain hydrocarbon chain having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, preferably 2 carbon atoms) ), the composition.

[0005] Preferably, the composition comprises, as a pigment, at least a non-white pigment (e.g., iron oxide), and optionally (or optionally additionally) a white pigment.

[0006] Also, the composition of the present invention is preferably an anhydrous composition, more preferably an anhydrous and solid composition. The present invention also relates to a cosmetic method for caring for and / or making up keratinous substances, in particular the skin, eyelids, eyebrows or lips, preferably the lips, comprising applying (or coating) the composition defined in the present invention to the keratinous substance.

Mode for Carrying Out the Invention

[0007] Accordingly, the present invention is, in particular, a cosmetic composition for caring for and / or making up keratinous substances, in particular the skin, eyelids, eyebrows or lips, comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, a) a silicone polyurethane polymer, b) one or more pigments, preferably treated to be lipophilic, and c) a (C8-C20)alkyl PEG-n tris(trimethylsiloxy)silyl-(C1-C4)alkyl dimethicone surfactant (wherein n ranges from 3 to 20, preferably from 8 to 12, (C8-C20)alkyl chain is a saturated straight-chain or branched, preferably straight-chain hydrocarbon chain having 8 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 14 carbon atoms, (C1-C4)alkyl chain is a saturated straight-chain or branched, preferably straight-chain hydrocarbon chain having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, preferably 2 carbon atoms) relates to a composition comprising

[0008] "Keratinous substances" particularly mean the facial skin, eyelids, eyebrows, and lips. According to certain embodiments, the composition of the present invention is applied to the eyelids, eyebrows or lips. Preferably, it is applied to the lips.

[0009] "Pigment" means, as defined below, white or colored, mineral or organic, particles insoluble in aqueous solution, intended to color and / or opacify the resulting deposit. Advantageously in the context of the present invention, the composition comprises at least a (non-white) colored pigment and optionally additionally a white pigment.

[0010] According to a first embodiment, the composition is a fluid or liquid composition, i.e. a composition which flows under its own weight at room temperature and atmospheric pressure.

[0011] According to another particular preferred embodiment of the present invention, the composition of the present invention is not a fluid or liquid composition. Thus, the composition of the present invention may preferably be a paste-like composition or a solid composition.

[0012] The rheological properties of the paste-like or solid composition according to the present invention can be characterized by viscosity / elasticity measurements of the final product at 25°C.

[0013] The viscoelastic parameters of the paste-like or solid composition of the present invention are measured at 25°C and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg), for example, using a DHR2 rheometer manufactured by TA Instruments.

[0014] In the case of the "solid or paste-like composition" of the present invention, the pellets of the product are cut and deposited between two smooth metal planes with a diameter of 20 mm and an air gap of 1 mm. The storage modulus or modulus of elasticity G' (expressed in Pascals (Pa)) and the delta phase angle (°) are recorded as a function while increasing the pressure in the range of 0.1 Pa to 10,000 Pa. The value to be retained is extracted from the linear region where the modulus of elasticity becomes constant, that is, the deformation is less than 100 Pa.

[0015] Products with a storage modulus G' exceeding 5000 Pa and a delta phase angle less than 30° are considered to be solid or paste-like. Therefore, according to a specific preferred embodiment, the solid or paste-like composition of the present invention is characterized in that, when measured according to the above procedure, the storage modulus G' exceeds 5000 Pa and the delta phase angle is less than 30°.

[0016] According to a specific embodiment, the composition may have a storage modulus G' exceeding 20,000 Pa or exceeding 50,000 Pa, and a delta phase angle less than 25°.

[0017] According to another specific embodiment, the composition may have a storage modulus G' exceeding 100,000 Pa or exceeding 500,000 Pa, and a delta phase angle less than 20°.

[0018] According to another embodiment, the solid composition of the present invention can be characterized by its hardness. The hardness can be measured at 20 °C by a method called the "butter-cutting wire" method, in which a rigid metal wire with a diameter of 250 μm is used to cut a preferably cylindrical rotating stick-shaped product in the transverse direction while moving the wire relative to the stick at a speed of 60 mm / min. The hardness of the sample is expressed in gram weight (Gf) and can be measured using a TAXT Plus Texturometer type texture meter. Preferably, the value obtained should fall within the range of 140 to 190.

[0019] According to a first embodiment, the solid composition of the present invention is in the form of a stick.

[0020] According to another embodiment, the solid or paste-like composition of the present invention is packed in a pot or a cup.

[0021] According to a particular preferred embodiment, the composition of the present invention is an anhydrous composition.

[0022] "Anhydrous" particularly means that it is preferably free of water added to the composition, although it may be present in trace amounts in the various compounds used in the composition. In particular, the composition according to the present invention contains water in an amount of less than 4% by weight, preferably less than 3% by weight, preferably less than 2% by weight, more preferably less than 1% by weight, and even more preferably less than 0.5% by weight, or is completely free of water, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0023] Therefore, according to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the composition is anhydrous and solid.

[0024] Oil phase The oil phase of the composition of the present invention contains at least one oil selected from hydrocarbon oils, silicone oils, and mixtures thereof, preferably a hydrocarbon oil.

[0025] According to certain embodiments, the hydrocarbon oil is selected from the group consisting of plant-derived hydrocarbon oils, linear or branched C8-C19 alkanes, C10-C40 synthetic ethers, C10-C40 synthetic esters, C12-C26 aliphatic alcohols, C12-C22 higher fatty acids, and mixtures thereof.

[0026] According to certain preferred embodiments, the composition of the present invention comprises one or more linear or branched C8-C19 alkanes.

[0027] Examples of the linear or branched C8-C19 alkanes include the following. · C8-C16 isoalkanes (also called isoparaffins) such as isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane, and hemisqualane, and oils sold under trade names such as ISOPAR® or PERMETYL® · Linear alkanes each having a hydrocarbon chain in the following · C9-C17, C10-C14, such as a mixture of undecane and tridecane, and those sold by BASF Care Creations under the name Cetiol® Ultimate · C15-C19, such as those sold by Seppic under the name EMOGREEN® L15 · C9-C12, C12-C14, C16-C18, such as those sold by BIOSYNTHIS under the names VEGELIGHT® SILK (INCI name C9-12 ALKANE), VEGELIGHT® 1214LC, and VEGELIGHT® 1618LC · n-dodecane (C12) and n-tetradecane (C14), particularly those sold by Sasol under the reference numbers PARAFOL® 12-97 and PARAFOL® 14-97, respectively · And mixtures thereof

[0028] Accordingly, according to certain embodiments, the composition comprises one or more linear or branched C8-C19 alkanes selected from the group consisting of isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane, branched alkanes such as hemisqualane, nonane, dodecane, undecane, tridecane, n-tetradecane, n-pentadecane, n-nonadecane, and mixtures thereof, particularly isododecane, and mixtures of linear C9 / C12, C11 / C13, C10 / C12, C10 / C14, or C15 / C19 alkanes.

[0029] According to certain embodiments, the composition comprises at least isododecane as a C8-C19 branched alkane.

[0030] According to certain embodiments, the total content of linear or branched C8-C19 alkanes in the composition of the present invention can be at least 30% by weight based on the total weight of the composition. In particular, it can be in the range of 40-80% by weight, particularly 45-60% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0031] Silicone polyurethane polymer The composition of the present invention comprises a silicone polyurethane polymer.

[0032] The "silicone polyurethane polymer" in the present invention means any polymer containing organosiloxane units and urethane bonds.

[0033] According to certain embodiments, the silicone polyurethane polymer according to the present invention is a reaction product of a polyorganosiloxane functionalized with a hydroxyl group (preferably containing at least two hydroxyl groups) and a diisocyanate compound.

[0034] Such a polyorganosiloxane functionalized with a hydroxyl group corresponds to the following formula (I).

Chemical formula

[0035] Preferably, R represents the occurrence of at least one methyl group, more preferably, R represents a methyl group in all or substantially all occurrences, which means that R represents a methyl group in more than 90% of the occurrences, particularly more than 95% of the occurrences, or more than 98% of the occurrences. According to one embodiment of the present invention, the polyorganosiloxane functionalized with a hydroxyl group is, for example, of the formula Ia:

Chemical formula

[0036] According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the polyorganosiloxane functionalized with a hydroxyl group is, for example, of the formula Ib:

Chemical formula

[0037] The diisocyanate particularly corresponds to the formula O=C=N-R 1 -N=C=O, wherein R 1is a divalent hydrocarbon group containing from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, containing 20 and optionally substituted with one or more heteroatoms, in particular, R 1 is optionally substituted cyclic alkyl, linear, cyclic or branched alkenyl, alkynyl, aryl, alkylaryl or arylalkyl group selected from, including but not limited to the following: i. groups of the following formula:

Chemical formula

Chemical formula

Chemical formula

Chemical formula

Chemical formula

[0038] Diisocyanates suitable for use in the present invention include, but are not limited to, toluene diisocyanate, methylene diphenyl diisocyanate (including 2,2'-MDI, 2,4'-MDI and 4,4'-MDI), 1,6-hexamethylene diisocyanate, isophorone diisocyanate, dicyclohexylmethane 4,4'-diisocyanate, xylene diisocyanate, cyclohexane diisocyanate, 3,3'-dimethyl-4,4'-diphenylmethane diisocyanate, p-phenylene diisocyanate, m-phenylene diisocyanate, 4,4'-isopropylidene dicyclohexyl isocyanate, and equivalents thereof.

[0039] In a preferred embodiment, the diisocyanate is selected from the group consisting of 1,6 - hexamethylene diisocyanate, dicyclohexylmethane 4,4'-diisocyanate, isophorone diisocyanate, and combinations thereof.

[0040] In one embodiment, the diisocyanate comprises or consists essentially of 1,6 - hexamethylene diisocyanate.

[0041] In another embodiment, the diisocyanate comprises or consists essentially of isophorone diisocyanate.

[0042] In yet another embodiment, the diisocyanate comprises or consists essentially of dicyclohexylmethane 4,4'-diisocyanate, and this embodiment is particularly preferred.

[0043] Thus, according to a particular embodiment, the silicone - polyurethane polymer is a polyorganopolysiloxane functionalized with hydroxyl groups, particularly of the formula (I):

Chemical formula

[0044] According to a preferred embodiment, the silicone polyurethane polymer of the present invention comprises repeating units derived from a polyorganosiloxane functionalized with hydroxyl groups and repeating units derived from a diisocyanate in the form of an alternating copolymer AB, where unit A is of the formula II: [Chemical formula] (wherein R, L, and n are as defined above with respect to Formulas I, Ia, Ib, and Ie) has the structure of, and unit B is of Formula III: [Chemical formula] (wherein R 1 is as defined above) has the structure of, and units A and B are arranged in a linear, branched, or cyclic, preferably linear configuration.

[0045] The polymer may contain branch points or graft points in the polyorganosiloxane, and one or more groups R in Formula I or II are a group IV represented by the following formula. [Chemical formula] (wherein R is as defined in Formula I, and R * may represent a -LO- group that further binds to the side chain of unit B of Formula III, which may further bind to unit A of Formula II, etc., or R * may represent -L-OH, a group R as defined above, or a terminal group.)

[0046] When the polyorganosiloxane has such branch points or graft points, they can exist as T-type or Q-type grafts, where T indicates that only one group R on the Si atom is a polyorganosiloxane chain, as shown above, and Q indicates that both groups R are polyorganosiloxanes.

[0047] These types of polyorganosiloxane compounds are called copolymers of silicone polyurethane polymers and resin T or resin Q, and are branched or grafted.

[0048] The silicone polyurethane polymer can also be produced from a functionalized isocyanate prepolymer. For example, the isocyanate prepolymer has the following formula V: [Chemical formula] (wherein R, R 1 and L are as defined above, and x is an integer from 0 to 5000, preferably from 1 to 200, more preferably from 10 to 100, and even more preferably from 10 to 50) can be a bifunctional or polyfunctional polyorganosiloxane isocyanate such as the polyorganosiloxane diisocyanate shown in

[0049] The prepolymer can also be made polyfunctional by introducing additional isocyanate groups having one or more groups R. The functionalized isocyanate prepolymer reacts with a polyorganosiloxane functionalized with a hydroxyl group to obtain a compound of formula I or a polyfunctional analog thereof.

[0050] The prepolymer according to formula V generally has a molecular weight in the range of 4000 to about 15000 daltons. The prepolymers according to formulas I, Ia, and Ib typically have a molecular weight in the range of 250 to about 15000 daltons.

[0051] In one embodiment of the present invention, the silicone polyurethane polymer does not contain or is essentially free of polyalkylene glycol units, particularly polyethylene glycol (PEG) or polypropylene glycol (PPG) sub-units.

[0052] "Essentially free of" means that the polymer contains polyalkylene glycol sub-units in less than about 1% by weight, preferably less than about 0.5% by weight, more preferably less than about 0.1% in 20% by weight.

[0053] In a preferred embodiment, the silicone polyurethane polymer used in the cosmetic composition of the present invention is a linear polymer comprising a reaction product of formula Ib and a diisocyanate selected from the group consisting of 1,6 - hexamethylene diisocyanate, dicyclohexylmethane 4,4'-diisocyanate, isophorone diisocyanate, and combinations thereof.

[0054] Such silicone polyurethane polymers are available, for example, from Siltech Corporation, in the form of a premix in isododecane, under the trade names SILMER UR 5050 or UR 100100 (45% polymer dry matter in isododecane).

[0055] According to another embodiment, the silicone - polyurethane polymer is used in the form of a premix in hemisqualane.

[0056] According to another embodiment, the silicone polyurethane polymer is used in the form of a premix in a linear C9 - C16 alkane or a mixture of linear C9 - C16 alkanes, preferably a mixture of n - nonane and n - dodecane (C9 - C12, VEGELIGHT SILK) or a mixture of n - undecane and n - tridecane (C11 - C13, CETIOL ULTIMATE).

[0057] According to a particular preferred embodiment, the silicone polyurethane polymer according to the present invention is present in the composition of the present invention in a content in the range of 3 - 25%, particularly 5 - 20%, particularly 8% - 15% by weight of active substance (dry matter) relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0058] Coloring material The composition of the present invention further comprises a coloring material, preferably at least the following pigments.

[0059] Regarding the object of the present invention, the term "coloring material" means a compound that can produce an optical effect of color when formulated in a sufficient amount in a suitable cosmetic medium. In particular, the optical effect of color is related to the presence of colored particles (other than white) in the composition.

[0060] The coloring material can be selected from organic or inorganic coloring materials, optical effect materials, and mixtures thereof.

[0061] According to a particular embodiment, the coloring material is a pigment, in particular selected from mineral pigments, organic pigments, composite pigments, nacreous pigments, and mixtures thereof.

[0062] "Pigment" means particles of a white or colored mineral or organic substance that are insoluble in an aqueous solution and are intended to color and / or opacify the resulting deposit.

[0063] Preferably, considering the color flow or marble pattern problems solved by the present invention, the composition of the present invention contains at least a (non-white) colored pigment and further contains a white pigment.

[0064] Examples include mineral pigments, organic pigments, composite pigments (so-called pigments based on mineral and / or organic materials), nacreous pigments or nacreous agents (multi-layer structures), and mixtures thereof.

[0065] Examples of "mineral pigments" include titanium dioxide (rutile type or anatase type) which may optionally be surface-treated; iron oxides in black, yellow, red and brown; manganese violet: chromium oxide, hydrated chromium oxide and ferric blue of ultramarine blue, etc. According to a particular preferred embodiment, the composition of the present invention contains at least a colored pigment, in particular iron oxide, and advantageously further contains a white pigment such as titanium dioxide. Preferably, titanium dioxide, iron oxides in black, yellow, red and brown, and mixtures thereof are used.

[0066] Examples of "organic pigments" include Pigment D&C Red No. 19, D&C Red No. 9, D&C Red No. 22, D&C Red No. 21, D&C Red No. 28, D&C Yellow No. 6, D&C Orange No. 4, D&C Orange No. 5, D&C Red No. 27, D&C Red No. 13, D&C Red No. 7, D&C Red No. 6, D&C Yellow No. 5, D&C Red No. 36, D&C Red No. 33, D&C Orange No. 10, D&C Yellow No. 6, D&C Red No. 30, D&C Red No. 3, D&C Blue No. 1, carbon black, and lacquer.

[0067] Examples of "true pearlescent pigments" or "true pearlescent agents" include, in particular, white true pearlescent pigments such as bismuth oxychloride; and colored true pearlescent pigments such as titanium mica with iron oxides, titanium mica with the aforementioned types of organic pigments, and pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. Mention can be made of the widely commercially available reference true pearlescent agents Reflecks®, Ronastar®, Timiron®, and Syncristal®. True pearlescent pigments can also be based on silica, alumina, aluminum hydroxide, synthetic mica, tin oxide, borosilicates (e.g., calcium sodium borosilicate or calcium aluminum borosilicate).

[0068] The pigments may or may not be treated.

[0069] According to certain embodiments, the pigments are treated with lipophilic or hydrophobic surfactants.

[0070] In particular, lipophilic agents selected from the group consisting of N-acylated amino acids or salts thereof, silicone agents, metal soaps, lecithin and its derivatives, waxes, fatty acid esters, and phospholipids are mentioned.

[0071] Accordingly, according to certain embodiments, the compositions of the present invention include mineral pigments treated with lipophilic surfactants, in particular titanium dioxide and iron oxide treated with N-acylated amino acids or salts thereof.

[0072] In addition to pigments of the aforementioned type, the compositions of the present invention may further include dyes.

[0073] Examples of the "dye" include, in particular, Yellow No. 5, Yellow No. 6, Blue No. 1, Green No. 5, Green No. 3, Green No. 6, Orange No. 4, Red No. 4, Red No. 21, Red No. 22, Red No. 27, Red No. 28, Red No. 33, and Red No. 40. Examples of fat-soluble dyes include Sudan Red, D&C Red 17, D&C Green 6, beta-carotene, Sudan Brown, D&C Yellow 11, D&C Violet 2, D&C Orange 5, Quinoline Yellow, and Annatto.

[0074] According to certain preferred embodiments, the total content of coloring materials in the composition, in particular the total content of pigments, can range from 2 to 20% by weight, preferably from 3% to 15% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0075] Preferably, the content of non-white pigments ranges from 1 to 15%, particularly from 2 to 10%, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0076] Silicone surfactant The "silicone surfactant" or "silicone emulsifier" is considered to be indistinguishable in this description.

[0077] The compositions of the present invention include (C8-C20) alkyl PEG-n tris(trimethylsiloxy)silyl-(C1-C4) alkyl dimethicone silicone surfactants (where n ranges from 3 to 20, preferably from 8 to 12, (C8-C20) alkyl chain is a saturated straight-chain or branched, preferably straight-chain hydrocarbon chain having 8 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 14 carbon atoms, (C1-C4) alkyl chain is a saturated straight-chain or branched, preferably straight-chain hydrocarbon chain having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, preferably 2 carbon atoms) further comprises

[0078] For the purposes of the present invention, "n" represents the number of ethyloxy units in the PEG chain.

[0079] According to certain embodiments, the silicone surfactant used according to the present invention is lauryl PEG-10 tris(trimethylsiloxy)silylethyldimethicone, such as that commercially available under the name DOWSIL™ ES-5300 by Dow Chemical Company.

[0080] Applicants have actually shown that by introducing the (C8-C20) alkyl PEG-n tris(trimethylsiloxy)silyl-(C1-C4) alkyldimethylconesilicone surfactant as defined above, the compatibility (or compatibility) between the silicone polyurethane polymer and the pigment in the composition according to the present invention can be improved. Thus, the formulation becomes homogeneous and there are no flow and / or marble patterns, which cannot be achieved without this particular silicone surfactant.

[0081] The content of the (C8-C20) alkyl PEG-n tris(trimethylsiloxy)silyl-(C1-C4) alkyldimethylconesilicone surfactant as described above in the composition of the present invention is particularly 0.1 to 3% by weight, particularly 0.5 to 2% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0082] Additional components The composition preferably further comprises a fat phase structuring agent, particularly selected from waxes, pasty fatty substances and mixtures thereof.

[0083] Thus, according to certain preferred embodiments, the composition further comprises one or more waxes, particularly one or more plant-derived waxes, and optionally additionally one or more pasty fatty substances.

[0084] Wax According to certain preferred embodiments, the compositions of the present invention further comprise at least one wax, enabling the system to be stabilized or even frozen without interfering with the results of lastingness.

[0085] In the present invention, the term "wax" means a compound that is solid at 25°C, has a reversible solid / liquid state change, and a melting point of 40°C or higher, preferably exceeding 60°C.

[0086] Natural waxes include sunflower wax, carnauba wax, beeswax (or honey wax), microcrystalline wax, paraffin wax, polyethylene wax, ozokerite, and mixtures thereof.

[0087] Preferably, the fatty phase of the compositions of the present invention is composed of one or more plant-derived waxes selected particularly from the group consisting of carnauba wax, sunflower wax, and mixtures thereof. Additionally, other additional waxes such as beeswax (honey wax), rice wax, candelilla wax, soybean wax, rapeseed wax, olive wax, cotton wax, Chinese insect wax, montan wax, kapok wax, sugarcane wax, jojoba wax, shellac wax, behenic acid ester of hydrogenated castor oil fatty acid, C18 - C36 fatty acid triglyceride, or mixtures thereof may also be included.

[0088] Thus, according to certain embodiments, the composition comprises carnauba wax, sunflower wax and beeswax.

[0089] The compositions according to the present invention may comprise a total wax content in the range of 0.5 to 25% by weight, particularly 3 to 25% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0090] According to certain preferred embodiments, the compositions of the present invention comprise a total wax content in the range of 5 to 25% by weight, particularly 10 to 20% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0091] Paste-like fatty substance The composition may further advantageously include one or more paste-like fatty substances.

[0092] "Paste-like fatty substance" means an amorphous fatty compound containing a liquid part and a solid part at a temperature of 25°C.

[0093] Examples of paste-like fatty substances include, in particular, fatty acid triglycerides and their derivatives, esters of polyols and dimer diacids of fatty acids, or one of those esters, hydrogenated castor oil esters, glycerol oligomer esters, especially diglycerol esters, vegetable butters, and mixtures thereof.

[0094] Advantageously, paste-like fatty substances of natural origin, preferably of plant origin, are used.

[0095] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises at least one paste-like fatty substance selected from jojoba esters. The total content of paste-like fatty substances can be in the range of 0 to 15% by weight, in particular 1 to 10% by weight, especially 2 to 8% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0096] According to a particular preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition of the invention may comprise at least one plant-derived wax selected from sunflower wax, carnauba wax, and mixtures thereof, and advantageously further, in particular, a paste-like fatty substance selected from jojoba esters.

[0097] A particular composition of the invention comprises at least one plant-derived wax selected from sunflower wax, carnauba wax, and mixtures thereof, and advantageously further comprises a paste-like fatty substance selected from beeswax and in particular jojoba esters.

[0098] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition further comprises another additional component selected from lipophilic gelling agents, fillers, and mixtures thereof.

[0099] Lipophilic gelling agent The "lipophilic gelling agent" in the present invention means a compound capable of gelling the fatty phase of the composition.

[0100] In particular, mineral gelling agents such as bentonite dispersed in oil can be mentioned. For example, reference can be made to BENTONE GEL ISD V from Elementis, whose INCI name is isododecane (and) distearyldimonium hectorite (and) propylene carbonate.

[0101] Therefore, according to a specific embodiment, the composition of the present invention further comprises a lipophilic gelling agent, particularly a mineral gelling agent such as bentonite, preferably a quaternary hectorite.

[0102] The total content of the lipophilic gelling agent ranges from 0 to 5% by weight, particularly from 0.5 to 5% by weight, and particularly from 2 to 4% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0103] Filler Fillers are used, in particular, to modify the rheology or texture of the composition and / or to provide a mattifying effect.

[0104] Regarding the object of the present invention, the term "filler" means particles of any shape, colorless or white, of mineral or organic, natural or synthetic nature, which particles have a certain form (plate-like, spherical or elliptical), are insoluble in the medium of the composition and are dispersed therein. Fillers are, in particular, mica (or muscovite), kaolin, titanium oxide, of natural or synthetic origin; calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate and bicarbonates; zinc stearate, magnesium stearate or lithium stearate, zinc laurate, magnesium myristate; synthetic polymer powders such as polyethylene, polyester, polyamide (e.g. nylon); polyacrylic acid or polymethacrylic acid powders, silicone powders; cellulose powders; glass and ceramic beads; powders of organic materials of natural origin such as corn, wheat, rice, cotton starch (which may or may not be cross-linked), and mixtures thereof.

[0105] The filler may or may not be surface-treated, in particular with lipophilic or hydrophobic agents.

[0106] According to a particular embodiment, the filler is not surface-treated.

[0107] According to a particular preferred embodiment, the filler is surface-treated, in particular with lipophilic or hydrophobic agents. In particular, lipophilic agents selected from the group consisting of N-acylated amino acids or salts thereof, silicone agents, metal soaps, lecithin and its derivatives, waxes, fatty acid esters, and phospholipids may be mentioned. According to a particular preferred embodiment, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one silica powder, preferably a silica powder surface-treated with a lipophilic or hydrophobic agent.

[0108] Preferably, the silica powder is treated with lauroyl lysine. In particular, reference can be made to the commercially available product AMILON® from IKEDA.

[0109] According to a particular embodiment, the composition advantageously comprises a silica powder treated with lauroyl lysine and an untreated silica powder.

[0110] According to certain embodiments, silica powder, particularly hydrophobically treated silica powder, is present in the composition in an amount in the range of 2 to 10% by weight, particularly 3 to 8% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0111] According to certain embodiments, the total filler content in the composition can be in the range of particularly 2 to 10% by weight, particularly 3 to 8% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0112] Thus, according to certain preferred embodiments of the present invention, the composition of the present invention comprises the following: · One or more hydrocarbon oils, particularly isododecane and linear C9 - C14 alkanes, · (i) A polyorganopolysiloxane functionalized with a hydroxyl group and having the formula (I):

Chemical formula

[0113] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition comprises at least a non-white colored pigment (e.g., iron oxide), and optionally additionally a white pigment (e.g., titanium dioxide).

[0114] According to a particular preferred embodiment, the composition is an anhydrous and solid composition as described above.

[0115] Galenic formulation The composition of the present invention is a care and / or makeup composition for keratinous substances, in particular for the skin, eyelids, eyebrows or lips, preferably for the eyelids, eyebrows and lips.

[0116] The composition can be a fluid or liquid composition, or a solid or pasty composition.

[0117] Depending on a particular embodiment, the composition is fluid or liquid. In particular, it can be a liquid or fluid (or flowable) foundation.

[0118] Preferably, the composition is a solid or pasty composition. The composition can in particular be a composition packed in a stick, pencil, or pot or cup.

[0119] According to a first embodiment, the composition of the present invention is a "top coat" composition and can be used in any lip makeup composition to provide a long-lasting matte finish (transfer-free).

[0120] According to another embodiment, the composition of the present invention is a one-step makeup composition for providing color, matte finish and durability (non-transferability).

[0121] In particular, the composition can be a lipstick or a composition in a pot or cup for the lips.

[0122] In another particular embodiment, the composition can be a liner pencil.

[0123] According to another particular embodiment, the composition can be a stick or pencil that can be applied to the eyebrows with a finger or a brush, or a composition in a pot or cup (e.g., an eyebrow pencil).

[0124] In another embodiment, the composition can be a stick or a composition in a pot or cup (e.g., eyeshadow) that can be applied to the eyelids with a finger, a sponge, or a brush.

[0125] In another embodiment, the composition can be a stick or a composition in a pot or cup (e.g., a color corrector or a concealer) that can be applied to the facial skin, particularly to specific areas, with a finger, a sponge, or a brush.

[0126] Thus, the composition of the present invention is particularly in the form of a composition packaged in a stick or a pot or cup, a liner pencil, an eyebrow pencil, eyeshadow, or a concealer, preferably a lipstick.

[0127] Cosmetic method The present invention also relates to a cosmetic method for caring for and / or applying makeup to keratinous substances, comprising applying the composition according to the present invention to keratinous substances, particularly the skin, eyelids, eyebrows, or lips, preferably the lips.

[0128] The composition of the present invention applied to the skin or lips is as described above.

[0129] Preferably, the composition is an anhydrous composition.

[0130] More preferably, the composition is a pasty or solid anhydrous composition as defined above.

[0131] According to certain embodiments, the composition of the present invention applied to the skin or lips, preferably the lips, comprises: · One or more hydrocarbon oils, in particular isododecane and linear C9-C14 alkanes, · (i) A polyorganopolysiloxane functionalized with a hydroxyl group, of formula (I):

Chemical formula

[0132] Preferably, the composition comprises at least a colored (non-white) pigment, particularly iron oxide, and optionally additionally a white pigment as a lipophilically treated pigment.

[0133] The present invention is described in the following non-limiting examples. Unless otherwise stated, % is expressed as the weight % of the component relative to the total weight of the composition.

Example

[0134] Example: Study on the homogeneity of the composition

Table 1

[0135] The composition is prepared according to the following procedure. · Weigh the wax and jojoba ester and heat to 91 °C under a rayneri (or stirrer). · Once everything is homogeneous, add the alkane, silicone surfactant, and pigment and stir for 15 minutes. · Next, disperse the filler under the rayneri and stir for 10 minutes. · Pass the composition through an Ultra-turrax until the pigment and filler are completely homogenized. · Place the composition again under the rayneri at 91 °C, add Silmer UR-5050, and keep stirring for 15 minutes. · Then, add the volatile linear alkane to complete the composition. · Pour the hot composition into the package.

[0136] Observe the homogeneity of the composition visually for the bulk (before pouring) and the stick after pouring.

[0137] The results are shown in the following table.

Table 2

[0138] These results show that the presence of the (C8 - C20) alkyl PEG-n tris(trimethylsiloxy)silyl-(C1 - C4) alkyldimethylconesurfactant as defined in the present invention results in a homogeneous composition without flow or marble pattern, compared to a control (or reference) composition (without surfactant) and a composition with another silicone surfactant (cetyl dimethicone).

Claims

1. A cosmetic composition for caring for and / or makeup on keratin substances, comprising in a physiologically acceptable medium, a) Silicone polyurethane polymer, b) One or more pigments, and c) (C8-C20) alkylPEG-n tris(trimethylsiloxy)silyl-(C1-C4) alkyldimethicone silicone surfactant (However, n is in the range of 3 to 20.) (C8-C20) alkyl chains are saturated straight or branched hydrocarbon chains having 8 to 20 carbon atoms. (C1-C4) alkyl chains are saturated straight or branched hydrocarbon chains having 1-4 carbon atoms.) A composition containing the following:

2. The composition according to claim 1, characterized by comprising at least a non-white pigment.

3. The composition according to claim 2, characterized in that the non-white pigment is iron oxide.

4. The composition according to claim 1, characterized in that it is an anhydrous composition.

5. The composition according to claim 1, further comprising one or more linear or branched C8-C19 alkanes.

6. The composition according to claim 5, characterized in that the linear or branched C8-C19 alkane is selected from the group consisting of isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane, hemisqualane, nonane, dodecane, undecane, tridecane, n-tetradecane, n-pentadecane, n-nonadecane, a mixture of linear C9 / C12, C11 / C13, C10 / C12, C10 / C14, or C15 / C19 alkanes, and mixtures thereof.

7. The composition according to claim 1, further comprising one or more waxes.

8. The composition according to claim 7, further comprising one or more paste-like fatty substances.

9. The composition according to claim 7, characterized in that the total wax content is in the range of 5 to 25% by weight of the total weight of the composition.

10. The aforementioned silicone-polyurethane polymer Equation (I) 【Chemistry 1】 (In the formula, n is an integer between 0 and 5000.) A polyorganopolysiloxane functionalized with a hydroxyl group, corresponding to the structure, Diisocyanate compounds and The composition according to claim 1, characterized in that it is a reaction product of the following.

11. The silicone-polyurethane polymer is Equation (I) 【Chemistry 2】 (In the formula, n is an integer between 1 and 200.) A polyorganopolysiloxane functionalized with a hydroxyl group, corresponding to the structure, A diisocyanate compound selected from the group consisting of 1,6-hexamethylene diisocyanate, dicyclohexylmethane 4,4'-diisocyanate, isophorone diisocyanate, and combinations thereof. The composition according to claim 10, characterized in that it is a reaction product of the following.

12. The composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the polyurethane silicone polymer is present in the composition in an amount ranging from 3% to 25% by weight of the active substance (dry substance) relative to the total weight of the composition.

13. The composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the silicone surfactant is lauryl PEG-10 tris(trimethylsiloxy)silylethyl dimethicone.

14. The composition according to claim 1, further comprising another additional component selected from lipophilic gelling agents, fillers, and mixtures thereof.

15. The composition according to claim 1, in the form of a stick or a composition packed in a pot or cup.

16. The composition according to claim 15, characterized in that it is a lipstick, liner pencil, eyebrow pencil, eyeshadow, or concealer.

17. A cosmetic method for caring for and / or making up a keratin substance, comprising applying a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 16 to the keratin substance.

18. The makeup method according to claim 17, characterized in that the composition is applied to the skin, eyelids, eyebrows, or lips.

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