Cosmetics
A cosmetic composition combining glycine derivatives, UV absorbers, and specific thickeners addresses the trade-off in UV care cosmetics, achieving UV protection and pore-minimization with a refreshing, non-sticky feel.
Patent Information
- Authority / Receiving Office
- JP · JP
- Patent Type
- Applications
- Current Assignee / Owner
- SHISEIDO CO LTD
- Filing Date
- 2024-12-09
- Publication Date
- 2026-06-19
AI Technical Summary
Existing UV care cosmetics face a trade-off between pore-minimizing effects and user experience, particularly due to the stickiness caused by high concentrations of glycylglycine derivatives combined with oil-soluble UV absorbers, necessitating a method to enhance both effects simultaneously.
A cosmetic composition comprising glycine derivatives or salts, oil-soluble UV absorbers, specific thickeners, and water, with optimized concentrations of each component, including nicotinic acid or its derivatives and powders, to achieve UV protection, pore-minimizing, and a refreshing, non-sticky feel.
The composition provides effective UV protection with reduced stickiness and improved user experience, maintaining a smooth, moisturizing texture while maximizing pore-minimizing effects.
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Abstract
Description
[Technical Field]
[0001] This invention relates to a cosmetic product that offers excellent feel when applied to the skin and has a high UV protection effect. [Background technology]
[0002] Cosmetics for various purposes are generally required to provide a superior feel when applied to the skin, specifically a refreshing and moisturizing sensation. From this perspective, water-based or oil-in-water cosmetics are widely used as bases for topical skin preparations such as skin cosmetics applied directly to the skin. In particular, as protecting the skin from ultraviolet rays has become a daily practice in skincare and body care, the importance of UV care cosmetics that use water-based or oil-in-water cosmetics as a base is increasing.
[0003] Most UV absorbers used in typical sunscreen cosmetics are oil-soluble due to their UV absorption capacity, ease of handling, and cost-effectiveness. However, oil-soluble UV absorbers tend to cause stickiness during use, so it is necessary to consider ways to reduce this stickiness.
[0004] On the other hand, cosmetics contain various medicinal ingredients. Examples of such medicinal ingredients include glycylglycine or its derivatives. Glycylglycine is known to have a pore-minimizing effect, and its combination with UV protection cosmetics is a possibility.
[0005] However, our research revealed that when glycylglycine or its derivatives are combined at high concentrations with UV absorbers in UV care cosmetics to fully achieve a pore-minimizing effect, the user experience deteriorates. To maintain a high level of user experience, the concentration of glycylglycine or its derivatives must be kept low, resulting in a trade-off between pore-minimizing effect and user experience. Therefore, the development of a method that can achieve both was desired. [Prior art documents] [Patent Documents]
[0006] [Patent Document 1] Patent No. 5241058 specification [Overview of the project]
[0007] The present invention provides a cosmetic product that combines UV protection, excellent usability, and pore-minimizing effects.
[0008] The present invention provides the following: [1] (A) Equation (a): [ka] (In the formula, R 1 and R 2 Each of these is independently a hydrogen atom, an alkyl group, an alkenyl group, an aryl group, an aralkyl group, an aminomethylcarbonyl group, an amidino group, an alkylcarbonyl group, an alkenylcarbonyl group, an arylcarbonyl group, or an aralkylcarbonyl group, R 3 These are a hydrogen atom, an alkyl group, an alkenyl group, an aryl group, or an aralkyl group. However, R 1 , R 2 , and R 3 (They cannot simultaneously become hydrogen atoms.) A glycine derivative or salt thereof represented by (B) Oil-soluble UV absorber, (C) A thickener selected from the group consisting of acrylic polymers, taurate polymers, and hydrophobic modified polyether urethanes, and (D)Water A cosmetic product containing, A cosmetic in which the content of component (A), based on the total mass of the aforementioned cosmetic, is 0.3 to 5% by mass. [2] The cosmetic composition according to [1], wherein component (B) is selected from the group consisting of ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, octocrylene, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, dimethicone diethyl benzalmalonate, t-butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, ethylhexyl triazone, diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate, bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol, phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid, homosalate, ethylhexyl salicylate, drometrizole trisiloxane, and terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid. [3] (A) A cosmetic composition according to [1] or [2], wherein the component is glycylglycine. [4] (C) A cosmetic composition according to any one of [1] to [3], wherein the component contains a taurate polymer. [5] A cosmetic composition according to any one of [1] to [4], wherein the content of component (B) is 5 to 30% by mass, and the content of component (C) is 0.1 to 2% by mass, based on the total mass of the cosmetic composition. [6] (E) A cosmetic composition according to any one of [1] to [5], further comprising nicotinic acid or a derivative thereof. [7] (F) A cosmetic composition according to any one of [1] to [6], further comprising powder.
[0009] The present invention provides a cosmetic product that exhibits both UV protection and pore-minimizing effects. This cosmetic product, while containing a UV absorber, reduces oiliness during use, providing a refreshing feel, and also achieves a smooth, moisturizing texture. Specific description of the invention
[0010] The cosmetic composition according to the present invention is (A) Glycine derivatives or salts thereof, (B) Oil-soluble UV absorber, (C) Thickeners, and (D)Water It contains the following. Each of these components and further components that can be blended will be described below.
[0011] (A) Glycine derivative or a salt thereof The cosmetic according to the present invention comprises a glycine derivative or a salt thereof (hereinafter sometimes referred to as component (A)). The glycine derivative is represented by formula (a). [Chemical formula] In the formula, R 1 and R 2 are each independently a hydrogen atom, an alkyl group, an alkenyl group, an aryl group, an aralkyl group, an aminomethylcarbonyl group, an amidino group, an alkylcarbonyl group, an alkenylcarbonyl group, an arylcarbonyl group, or an aralkylcarbonyl group, R 3 is a hydrogen atom, an alkyl group, an alkenyl group, an aryl group, or an aralkyl group. However, R 1 , R 2 , and R 3 will not simultaneously be hydrogen atoms.
[0012] Component (A) may be a salt of the glycine derivative represented by formula (a). The type of the salt is not particularly limited as long as it is a pharmacologically acceptable salt, and examples thereof include hydrochloride, sulfate, phosphate, hydrobromide, sodium salt, potassium salt, magnesium salt, calcium salt, magnesium salt, ammonium salt, etc. Examples of the organic salt include acetate, lactate, maleate, fumarate, tartrate, methanesulfonate, p-toluenesulfonate, triethanolamine salt, amino acid salt, etc. Component (A) is preferably glycylglycine.
[0013] (A) One or more components may be included. The content of (A) is 0.3 to 5% by mass, preferably 0.5 to 3% by mass, and more preferably 1 to 2% by mass, based on the total mass of the cosmetic. Although (A) is known to be included in cosmetics, it has conventionally been difficult to increase its content from the standpoint of usability and other factors. In the present invention, by combining it with a specific thickener described later, it is possible to maximize the effect of (A) while achieving excellent usability.
[0014] (B) Oil-soluble UV absorber The cosmetic composition according to the present invention comprises an oil-soluble ultraviolet absorber (hereinafter referred to as component (B)). In the present invention, component (B) can be arbitrarily selected from those commonly used in the field of cosmetics or pharmaceuticals.
[0015] Specific examples of component (B) include ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, octocrylene, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, dimethicone diethyl benzalmalonate, t-butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, ethylhexyl triazone, diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate, bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol, phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid, homosalate, ethylhexyl salicylate, drometrizole trisiloxane, and terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid, and it is preferable to use a selection from the group consisting of these. Of these, it is more preferable to use ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, octocrylene, and t-butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane. Component (B) can be blended in one or more forms.
[0016] The content of component (B) is preferably 5 to 30% by mass, more preferably 7 to 20% by mass, and even more preferably 10 to 20% by mass, based on the total mass of the cosmetic. When two or more types of component (B) are combined, it is preferable that their total content be within the above range.
[0017] (C) Thickener The cosmetic composition according to the present invention comprises a specific thickening agent (hereinafter sometimes referred to as component (C)). Component (C) is a thickening agent selected from the group consisting of acrylic polymers, taurate polymers, and hydrophobic modified polyether urethanes.
[0018] (i) Examples of acrylic polymers are: Polyacrylic acid and its salts, Polyacrylimide, etc. These are some examples.
[0019] (ii) As for taurate polymers, (dimethylacrylamide / sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate) crosspolymer, (Acryloyldimethyltaurate ammonium / vinylpyrrolidone) copolymer, (Acryloyldimethyltaurate Ammonium / Beheneth-25 Methacrylate) Crosspolymer, Hydroxyethyl acrylate / acryloyldimethyl taurine, etc. These are some examples.
[0020] (iii) Examples of hydrophobic modified polyether urethanes include PEG-240 / decyltetradeceth-20 / hexamethylene diisocyanate copolymer.
[0021] Of these, (ii) taurate-based polymers or (iii) hydrophobic modified polyether urethanes are preferred, and (ii) taurate-based polymers are particularly preferred.
[0022] In this invention, the thickening agent must be specific. Generally known thickening agents, such as polysaccharides, cannot be used to obtain the effects of this invention.
[0023] The content of component (C) is preferably 0.1 to 2% by mass, more preferably 0.1 to 1% by mass, and even more preferably 0.12 to 0.5% by mass, based on the total mass of the cosmetic. When two or more types of component (C) are combined, it is preferable that their total content be within the above range.
[0024] (D)Water The composition according to the present invention further comprises water (hereinafter sometimes referred to as component (D)) in addition to the above components. As the water, water used for cosmetics, quasi-drugs, etc., can be used, for example, purified water, ion-exchanged water, tap water, etc.
[0025] The cosmetic composition according to the present invention is preferably an emulsified cosmetic composition comprising an aqueous phase consisting of component (D) and other aqueous components, and an oil phase consisting of component (B) and other oily components.
[0026] (E) Nicotinic acid or its derivatives The cosmetic composition according to the present invention comprises the above-mentioned components, but may further contain nicotinic acid or a derivative thereof (hereinafter sometimes referred to as component (E)).
[0027] Component (E) is well known for its whitening effect in cosmetics, but when incorporated into cosmetics, it generally tends to cause stickiness and an unpleasant feel during use. However, in the present invention, when component (E) is further combined with the above-mentioned combination of components (A) to (D), the whitening effect, which is a unique effect of component (E), is achieved while suppressing the occurrence of stickiness. Such a stickiness-suppressing effect was unexpected.
[0028] (E) Ingredients can be arbitrarily selected from those used in cosmetic or pharmaceutical applications, for example Nicotinic acid, Nicotinamide, Benzyl nicotinate, Nicotinate tocopherol, and β-butoxy nicotinate It is preferable that the selection is made from the group consisting of the following:
[0029] In the cosmetic composition according to the present invention, the content of component (E) can be arbitrarily selected depending on the purpose, but when it is included, it is preferably 2 to 10% by mass, and more preferably 3 to 8% by mass, based on the total mass of the cosmetic composition. In the present invention, since the occurrence of stickiness due to component (E) is suppressed, the content can be relatively high, but care should be taken as excessive inclusion may result in the inability to obtain the effect corresponding to the amount included.
[0030] (F) Powder The cosmetic composition according to the present invention may further contain a powder (hereinafter sometimes referred to as component (F)). Component (F) can be arbitrarily selected from those that can be incorporated into ordinary cosmetic compositions, within a range that does not impair the effects of the present invention.
[0031] (F) Components include those that exhibit ultraviolet scattering effects, those that improve the usability of cosmetics, and pigments used for coloring purposes. Specifically, for example, Inorganic powders (e.g., silica, talc, kaolin, mica, etc.); Organic powders (e.g., polyamide resin powder (nylon powder), polyethylene powder, polymethyl methacrylate powder, polystyrene powder, etc.); Inorganic pigments (e.g., titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, iron oxide, etc.); Pearl pigments (e.g., titanium dioxide-coated mica, titanium dioxide-coated bismuth oxychloride, etc.); Metal powder pigments (e.g., aluminum powder, copper powder, etc.); These are some examples.
[0032] The average particle size of the powder is preferably 1 to 20 μm, more preferably 2 to 10 μm, and even more preferably 3 to 8 μm. In this invention, the average particle size is the value measured as the volume-average particle size (D50) using a laser diffraction / scattering particle size distribution analyzer (MT3300EXII; manufactured by Microtrac-Bell) after adding 0.05 g of powder to 20 g of ethanol solvent and performing ultrasonic dispersion for 1 minute using an ultrasonic homogenizer (US-150T; manufactured by Nippon Seiki Seisakusho).
[0033] In the cosmetic composition according to the present invention, the content of component (F) is not particularly limited as it can be arbitrarily adjusted according to the purpose. Generally, when component (F) is included, the content is preferably 0.1 to 20% by mass, and more preferably 1 to 10% by mass, based on the total mass of the cosmetic composition.
[0034] (G) Other ingredients Furthermore, the cosmetic composition according to the present invention may contain other ingredients other than those listed above. For example, it may contain polar oils other than component (B), non-polar oils, thickeners other than component (C), surfactants, fragrances, water-soluble UV absorbers, pH adjusters, humectants, lipophilic thickeners, higher alcohols (with 7 or more carbon atoms), lower alcohols (with less than 6 carbon atoms), antioxidants, anti-inflammatory agents, whitening agents other than component (E), various extracts, activators, blood circulation promoters, anti-seborrheic agents, anti-inflammatory agents, water-soluble film-forming agents, and amino acids or peptides, etc.
[0035] The cosmetic composition according to the present invention is preferably a sunscreen cosmetic composition, but it can also be a skincare cosmetic composition (e.g., lotion, emulsion, cream, serum, pack, mask, etc.). The cosmetic composition according to the present invention tends to provide an excellent feel when it is a liquid cosmetic composition with particularly low viscosity. For this reason, the viscosity measured at 30°C using a B-type rotational viscometer is preferably 1 to 3,000 mPa·s. However, the viscosity can be appropriately adjusted depending on the application.
[0036] The cosmetic composition according to the present invention can be manufactured by any method. Various methods can be employed, such as a method of blending each component and stirring to mix them, or a method of mixing water-soluble components to form an aqueous phase component, then blending it with an oil phase component and dispersing it. [Examples]
[0037] The present invention will be specifically described based on the following examples, but the present invention is not limited to these examples. Unless otherwise specified, the content is expressed as mass % relative to the total mass.
[0038] [Examples 1-3, Comparative Examples 1-2] Cosmetic compositions for each example and each comparative example were prepared using the formulations shown in Table 1.
[0039] Furthermore, each prepared cosmetic product was applied to the skin, and its feel after application was evaluated. The evaluation criteria were as follows: A: Not sticky B: It's a little sticky. C: Sticky
[0040] [Table 1]
[0041] [Example 4] The cosmetic composition of Example 4 was prepared in the same manner as in Example 1, except that niacinamide was omitted. When the feel of the cosmetic composition of Example 4 after application was evaluated, it was superior to Comparative Examples 1 or 2, but tended to be stickier than Example 1.
Claims
1. (A) Equation (a): 【Chemistry 1】 (In the formula, R 1 and R 2 Each of these is independently a hydrogen atom, an alkyl group, an alkenyl group, an aryl group, an aralkyl group, an aminomethylcarbonyl group, an amidino group, an alkylcarbonyl group, an alkenylcarbonyl group, an arylcarbonyl group, or an aralkylcarbonyl group, and R 3 These are a hydrogen atom, an alkyl group, an alkenyl group, an aryl group, or an aralkyl group. However, R 1 , R 2 , and R 3 (They cannot simultaneously become hydrogen atoms.) A glycine derivative or salt thereof represented by (B) Oil-soluble UV absorber, (C) A thickener selected from the group consisting of acrylic polymers, taurate polymers, and hydrophobic modified polyether urethanes, and (D) Water A cosmetic product containing, A cosmetic composition in which the content of component (A), based on the total mass of the aforementioned cosmetic composition, is 0.3 to 5% by mass.
2. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein component (B) is selected from the group consisting of ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, octocrylene, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, dimethicone diethyl benzalmalonate, t-butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, ethylhexyl triazone, diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate, bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol, phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid, homosalate, ethylhexyl salicylate, drometrizole trisiloxane, and terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid.
3. (A) The cosmetic composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein component (A) is glycylglycine.
4. (C) The cosmetic composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein component (C) contains a taurate polymer.
5. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the content of component (B) is 5 to 30% by mass, and the content of component (C) is 0.1 to 2% by mass, based on the total mass of the cosmetic composition.
6. (E) The cosmetic composition according to claim 1 or 2, further comprising nicotinic acid or a derivative thereof.
7. (F) The cosmetic composition according to claim 1 or 2, further comprising powder.