Woven fabric, its manufacturing method, and spun yarn

Abstract

To provide a woven fabric having a soft but stiff texture, a smooth surface feeling, a dry touch, a good anti-pilling property, and a feeling suitable for a shirt use without limiting a season, and to provide a binding spun yarn capable of giving those properties.SOLUTION: A woven fabric includes: 40 to 90 mass% of a binding spun yarn B which contains 40 to 100 mass% of a polyester staple fiber having a single fiber fineness of 0.2 to 0.8 dtex; and 10 to 60 mass% of a polyester multifilament. The woven fabric has a cover factor CF of 2,000 to 2,500 represented by the following formula (2): CF=√(5,315 / warp yarn count)×warp yarn density (yarns / 2.54 cm)+√(5,315 / weft yarn count)×weft yarn density (yarns / 2.54 cm) -- (2).SELECTED DRAWING: None

Description

[Technical Field]

[0001] The present invention relates to a woven fabric, a method for producing the same, and a spun spun yarn. [Background technology]

[0002] BACKGROUND ART Numerous woven and knitted fabrics have been proposed which are made of spun yarns composed of splittable polyester split composite raw cotton and polyester multifilament yarns and have a soft feel, moderate firmness, and a downy touch.

[0003] Specifically, Patent Document 1 discloses that by interweaving polyester multifilament yarn having an average single yarn fineness of 0.9 to 5.5 dtex with spun yarn made from splittable raw cotton, it is possible to obtain a natural surface feel from the spun yarn made from splittable raw cotton and a moderate firmness from the polyester multifilament yarn. [Prior art documents] [Patent documents]

[0004] [Patent Document 1] Japanese Patent Application Publication No. 11-43841 Summary of the Invention [Problem to be solved by the invention]

[0005] Fabrics made from spun yarns composed of splittable polyester split composite raw cotton and polyester multifilament yarns are characterized by a soft texture, firmness, and a downy touch due to the fineness achieved by splitting, but due to the texture of the fabric's surface, they are mainly used for autumn and winter women's clothing and bedding materials, and are limited to certain seasons. While the texture and firmness achieved by the fineness of the yarns are effective for shirt applications, there is a strong demand for fabrics with a smoother surface.

[0006] In addition, the conventional method of splitting splittable composite fibers involves using a liquid flow dyeing machine to dissolve the easily soluble components (weight reduction process), but the additional weight reduction process increases the amount of work and the associated processing costs, which is an issue.

[0007] Therefore, an object of the present invention is to provide a woven fabric that is soft but firm, has a smooth surface, feels dry to the touch, has good anti-pilling properties, is suitable for use in shirts regardless of season, and has a texture that is suitable for shirts. Another object of the present invention is to obtain a shim spun yarn that can provide such a woven fabric. A further object of the present invention is to provide a method for efficiently producing such a woven fabric. [Means for solving the problem]

[0008] The present invention has the following configuration to solve the problems. (1) A woven fabric containing 40 to 90% by mass of a bundled spun yarn (hereinafter referred to as bundled spun yarn B) containing 40 to 100% by mass of polyester staple fibers having a single fiber fineness of 0.2 to 0.8 dtex, and 10 to 60% by mass of polyester multifilament, and having a cover factor CF represented by the following formula (2) of 2000 to 2500. CF = √(5,315 / warp thread count) × warp thread density (count / 2.54cm) + √(5,315 / weft thread count) × weft thread density (count / 2.54cm) (2) (2) The fabric has a pilling level of 3 or higher according to JIS L1076 (2012) Method A. (3) A bundled spun yarn A containing 50% by mass or more and 100% by mass or less of short fibers of splittable composite fibers having an island-sea structure in which a hardly soluble polyester is used as an island component and a readily soluble polymer is used as a sea component, The spun yarn satisfies the following (a) to (c): (a) The splittable conjugate fiber has a single fiber fineness of 1.0 dtex or more and 2.0 dtex or less. (b) The splittable conjugate fiber satisfies the following formula (1): 0.2≧Single fiber fineness (dtex) of splittable composite fiber × composite ratio of island components / number of islands≦0.77(1) (c) In the spun yarn A, the number of fluffs of 3 mm or more is 20 or less per 10 m. (4) A method for producing a woven fabric, characterized in that after weaving using the spun yarn A, a continuous refining and bleaching process is carried out to produce a woven fabric, and the splittable composite fibers contained in the spun yarn A are removed from the sea and split by a dissolution treatment of easily soluble components in the continuous refining and bleaching process. [Effects of the Invention]

[0009] In the present invention, by preparing a specific shim spun yarn A containing short fibers of splittable conjugate fibers in a specific mode, it is possible to obtain a shim spun yarn B which, after splitting, has a soft texture due to the fineness of the constituent fibers, a smooth surface, a dry feel, and good anti-pilling properties. Utilizing this shim spun yarn B, it is possible to obtain a woven fabric which is soft but firm, has a smooth surface, a dry feel, and good anti-pilling properties, and which has a texture suitable for shirt applications regardless of the season.

[0010] Furthermore, when splitting conventional splittable composite fibers, the additional splitting process in addition to the post-processing of regular woven fabrics required an increased workload, but the weight reduction process can now be easily dissolved in the continuous scouring and bleaching process, making it possible to efficiently produce the desired woven fabrics. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0011] (Splittable composite fiber) The splittable conjugate fiber used in the present invention has a sea-island structure with a hardly soluble polyester as island components and an easily soluble polymer as sea component. Preferably, the conjugation ratio of the hardly soluble polyester in the island components is 70 to 90% by mass, and the conjugation ratio of the easily soluble polymer in the sea component is 10 to 30% by mass. When the conjugation ratio of the easily soluble polymer is 10% by mass or more, island merging is unlikely to occur, and slits are easily formed in the fiber. When the conjugation ratio of the easily soluble polymer is 30% by mass or less, the proportion of the hardly soluble polyester that makes up the island components is not too low, and sufficiently excellent strength is obtained. More preferably, the conjugation ratio of the hardly soluble polyester in the island components is 75 to 90% by mass, and the conjugation ratio of the easily soluble polymer in the sea component is 10 to 25% by mass.

[0012] The hardly soluble polyester polymer that becomes the island component of the splittable composite fiber is preferably one that maintains the island shape well even after splitting, and specific examples thereof include polyalkylene terephthalates such as polyethylene terephthalate and polybutylene terephthalate, and copolymers thereof. Examples of copolymers are preferred copolymers in which isophthalic acid or a derivative thereof is copolymerized with the polyalkylene terephthalate as a copolymerization component. The copolymerization amount is determined appropriately taking into account the difference in elution properties of the easily elutable polymer used.

[0013] The readily soluble polymer for the sea component is preferably selected from polymers that are melt-processable and more readily soluble than other components, such as copolymers of polyalkylene terephthalates (e.g., polyethylene terephthalate, polybutylene terephthalate, and polytrimethylene terephthalate), polyester (co)polymers (e.g., polylactic acid), polyamide, polystyrene and its copolymers, polyethylene, and polyvinyl alcohol. From the viewpoint of simplifying the elution process of the sea component, the sea component is preferably a copolymerized polyester, polylactic acid, or polyvinyl alcohol (e.g., easily soluble in aqueous solvents or hot water). Particularly preferred sea components are polyesters in which 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid is copolymerized in an amount of 5 mol % to 15 mol % of the total dicarboxylic acid, and polyesters in which 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid and polyethylene glycol having a weight-average molecular weight of 500 to 3,000 are copolymerized in an amount of 5 wt % to 15 wt %.

[0014] The single fiber fineness of the splittable conjugate fiber used in the present invention is 1.0 dtex or more and 2.0 dtex or less. By having a fineness of 1.0 dtex or more, the fiber is wound around a cylinder during the carding process, and the occurrence of card neps is sufficiently suppressed. As the fineness increases, the number of constituent single yarns per spun yarn decreases, and thickness irregularities and neps in the spun yarn tend to increase. However, in spun yarns for thin fabrics (counts 30 to 60) used for shirts, blouses, etc., by setting the fineness to 2.0 dtex or less, thickness irregularities and neps in the spun yarn are sufficiently suppressed. A fineness of 1.0 dtex or more and 1.5 dtex or less is more preferable.

[0015] The cross-sectional shape of the splittable conjugate fiber is not particularly limited, but in general, in consideration of ease of elution, the cross-sectional shape is such that the hardly soluble polyester is arranged circumferentially within the fiber as island components, and a sea component, which is an easily soluble polymer, is arranged to finely divide the arranged island components of the hardly soluble polyester. In addition, it is preferable that the easily soluble components to divide are arranged radially from the center of the fiber so that the divided fibers are more likely to have a uniform thickness.

[0016] The number of islands in the splittable composite fiber is controlled to satisfy the following formula (1). 0.2≦Single fiber fineness (dtex) of splittable composite fiber × composite ratio of island components / number of islands≦0.77(1) In the above formula (1), the composite ratio is calculated by substituting composite ratio (mass %) / 100.

[0017] The preferred number of islands can be appropriately selected so as to fall within this range. More preferably, the value of "single fiber fineness (dtex) of splittable composite fiber × composite ratio of island components / number of islands" in formula (1) is in the range of 0.3 to 0.6.

[0018] (Method for manufacturing bundled spun yarn) In the present invention, a shive spun yarn refers to a spun yarn having a structure consisting of an untwisted core fiber bundle and shive fibers wound around it in a spiral shape. The core fiber bundle, which accounts for the majority of the constituent fibers, contains some alternating twist but is essentially untwisted. There are usually 1 to 10 shive fibers, which are wound around the core fiber bundle in a spiral shape at a substantially constant angle and in a constant direction, and serve to give the core fiber bundle its strength as a yarn.

[0019] Spinning methods for producing the spun yarn A of the present invention using splittable composite staple fibers include the open-end rotor (OER), MJS, and VOLTEX methods. However, a particularly preferred method for achieving the soft texture and suppressing fuzz of the present invention is the VOLTEX method using a Murata Vortex Spinner (manufactured by Murata Machinery Co., Ltd.; hereafter referred to as MVS). Typical spun yarns are wound around a rotating bobbin, imparting a twist to the fiber bundle once per rotation with the movement of the ring on the traveler. The inner and outer layers of the yarn exhibit similar twist strength, resulting in a spiral-shaped yarn. This results in the softest texture, but the lack of a means to control the ends of the fibers at the twisted portion makes them prone to fiber shedding and fuzz. The OER method uses a rotor to rotate the fibers and bind them together. This method is characterized by improved productivity compared to spun yarns. However, while the yarn structure retains a certain amount of twist in the fiber center, S twist remains near the surface of the yarn, even though it is a Z-twisted yarn. The irregular twist direction raises concerns about the coarseness and quality of the yarn. The MJS method was developed with the aim of achieving twice the production volume of OER yarn and ten times that of ring spinning. As the fibers pass through the two nozzles, a swirling air current in the rear nozzle generates a false twist. This false twist captures the fibers from the front roller, and the front nozzle winds the fibers not captured by the front roller over the false-twisted fiber bundle. The nozzle air swirls in opposite directions during this process, and as the fibers pass through the twist point of the rear nozzle, the false twist untwists. The surface twist further binds the fiber bundle, forming a double S and Z twist structure. Like OER yarn, the double twist structure gives the yarn a coarseness and stiffness. In the VOLTEX method, the fiber bundle is first separated and then re-aligned by the action of air flow, and the outer fibers are wrapped in the Z direction around the untwisted fiber group at the center of the yarn by the swirling air flow to form the yarn.The twist direction is constant, making the yarn softer than OER yarn and MJS yarn.In addition, the structure makes it difficult for the ends of the wrapped single fibers to come off, making it less likely to produce fuzz.

[0020] Various spinning methods that utilize the action of air flow have been proposed, developed, and used, but the spinning method using MVS in this invention is one of the spinning methods that can best achieve this, in that it suppresses fuzz and reduces the roughness and stiffness of the yarn by using a swirling air flow to create a yarn structure.

[0021] (Bundled spun yarn A) The shim spun yarn A of the present invention contains 50% by mass or more and 100% by mass or less of splittable conjugate staple fibers, and the splittable conjugate fibers may be blended with other staple fibers. The blending ratio of the other staple fibers is 0 to 50% by mass, preferably 0 to 40% by mass, of the total shim spun yarn A. If the other staple fibers exceed 50% by mass, the intended softness of the yarn cannot be achieved. A more preferred range is 0 to 30% by mass. The material of the other staple fibers to be blended may be synthetic or natural, but examples of synthetic fibers include fibers composed of polyalkylene terephthalates such as polyethylene terephthalate, polyethylene naphthalate, polybutylene terephthalate, and polytrimethylene terephthalate, polyesters such as polylactic acid, polyolefins such as polypropylene, polymers such as polycarbonate, polyacrylate, polyamide, polyurethane, and polyphenylene sulfide, and copolymers thereof. Furthermore, natural fibers such as cotton, wool, and hemp, synthetic fibers such as polyester, acrylic, polyamide, and polypropylene, and semi-synthetic fibers such as rayon triacetate may also be used.

[0022] The single fiber fineness of the other short fibers is not particularly limited either, but in consideration of spinning properties, it is preferably in the range of 0.6 to 5.0 dtex, more preferably 0.6 to 2.5 dtex.

[0023] The fiber length of splittable conjugate fibers and other short synthetic fibers that can be arbitrarily blended is preferably about 25 mm to 51 mm, and more preferably within the range of 30 mm to 44 mm, considering the principle of spinning. Natural fibers may not fall within this range due to their natural nature, but it is preferable that the fiber length be close to that of split fibers.

[0024] The count of the spun yarn A can be selected appropriately depending on the application, but a count of 30 to 60 is preferable for thin fabrics such as shirts and blouses.

[0025] The number of fluffs in the shied spun yarn A is 20 or less fluffs of 3 mm or more per 10 m. If the number exceeds 20 fluffs per 10 m, when the easily soluble components of the splittable conjugate fiber contained in the shied spun yarn A are subjected to a dissolution treatment, the single fibers are split according to the number of splits, increasing the number of fluffs. In particular, if the number of fluffs of 3 mm or more is large, when the yarn is woven into a fabric, the fluff is likely to entangle with the fluff of adjacent yarns, making pilling more likely. Furthermore, if the number of fluffs is high, the desired smooth surface feel of the fabric cannot be obtained, so the number of fluffs must be controlled at the shied spun yarn A stage. More preferably, the number of fluffs of 3 mm or more per 10 m is 15 or less. Controlling the number of fluffs to the above range can be easily achieved by spinning using the OER method or MJS method described above.

[0026] (Bundled spun yarn B) In the present invention, the shim spun yarn A obtained above is used for weaving, and the easily soluble polymer in the splittable composite fiber contained in the shim spun yarn A is dissolved and removed. After splitting, a woven fabric containing the shim spun yarn B is obtained, thereby making it possible to obtain a woven fabric with a soft texture and a smooth surface.

[0027] When the splittable conjugate fiber contained in the shim spun yarn A satisfies the following (a) and (b), the easily soluble polymer is eluted and, after splitting, a shim spun yarn B containing island component-derived polyester staple fibers with a single fiber fineness of 0.2 to 0.8 dtex is obtained. In particular, a single fiber fineness of 0.3 to 0.6 dtex is preferred. (a) The splittable conjugate fiber has a single fiber fineness of 1.0 dtex or more and 2.0 dtex or less. (b) The splittable conjugate fiber satisfies the following formula (1): 0.2≦Single fiber fineness of composite fiber (dtex)×composite ratio of island components / number of islands≦0.77(1)

[0028] The content of polyester staple fibers with a single fiber fineness of 0.2 to 0.8 dtex in the shim spun yarn B is usually about 40 to 100% by mass, although this depends on the blending ratio and content of the splittable conjugate fiber in the shim spun yarn A. In particular, a content of 60 to 100% by mass is more preferable in order to obtain the characteristic fabric flexibility and surface smoothness. This range can be achieved by appropriately adjusting the blending ratio and content of the splittable conjugate fiber.

[0029] (multifilament) The woven fabric of the present invention generally contains polyester multifilaments, preferably multifilaments made of polyethylene terephthalate or a copolymer thereof.

[0030] The polyester multifilament described above has the role of giving the fabric a suitable firmness and stiffness when combined with the spun yarn A using splittable composite fiber in a woven fabric.

[0031] The content of each component in the woven fabric is usually 40 to 90% by mass of the shied spun yarn B and 10 to 60% by mass of the polyester multifilament.

[0032] If the amount of spun yarn B is less than 40% by mass, the characteristic soft texture cannot be obtained, and if it exceeds 90% by mass, firmness cannot be obtained. Of these, 50 to 75% by mass is preferable. The polyester multifilament is preferably contained in the woven fabric at 10 to 60% by mass. If it is less than 10% by mass, firmness cannot be obtained. If it is 60% by mass or more, the woven fabric will feel rough and stiff, and the intended soft texture and firmness cannot be obtained. 25 to 50% by mass is more preferable.

[0033] The polyester multifilament used in the present invention may be a normal false twist textured yarn, a composite false twist textured yarn, or the like, and is not particularly limited. The single fiber fineness is preferably in the range of 0.9 to 5.5 dtex. A single fiber fineness of 0.9 dtex or more provides sufficient firmness and stiffness, while a single fiber fineness of more than 5.5 dtex results in a rough, stiff feel, making it difficult to achieve the desired texture.

[0034] The total fineness is preferably 50 to 120 dtex.

[0035] (fabric) In the woven fabric of the present invention, when the fabric is woven by interweaving a shim spun yarn A using a splittable conjugate fiber with a polyester multifilament, it is preferable to use the shim spun yarn A for either the warp or weft of the fabric and a polyester multifilament for the other. The shim spun yarn A and the polyester multifilament may be used in combination for either the warp or the weft, or both. When used in combination, it is preferable to alternately arrange the polyester multifilament and the shim spun yarn A.

[0036] In any case, it is preferable that the bundled spun yarn A and the polyester multifilament are arranged so that when the easily soluble polymer of the splittable composite fiber contained in the bundled spun yarn A is dissolved to form the bundled spun yarn B, the contents of each component are as described above.

[0037] (About the weaving process and CF) When used for woven fabrics, the fabric can be woven using the usual process. The weaving process generally involves warping, sizing, warping, and weaving, followed by post-processing. The type of loom is not particularly limited. The fabric structure is not particularly limited, but the warp and weft density after processing is preferably such that the total warp and weft cover factors CF is 2000 to 2500, more preferably 2100 to 2400. If the total CF is less than 2000, the fabric density is low and slippage is likely to occur. If the CF exceeds 2500, the density is high, and the yarns are constrained by the fabric crimp, preventing the desired texture from being achieved.

[0038] The cover factor refers to the cover factor of the woven fabric as a product. Specifically, when post-processing is performed on a woven fabric, the cover factor refers to the cover factor of the processed woven fabric (i.e., the woven fabric as a product). The cover factor is a value calculated using the above formula (2).

[0039] (post-processing process) The woven fabric is usually subjected to post-processing. Typical post-processing steps include singeing, continuous scouring and bleaching, intermediate setting, dyeing, and finishing, and the type of equipment is not limited. If sized, the woven fabric is singed and then desized, and then goes through the scouring and bleaching steps, and is dyed as needed. Scouring, bleaching, and dyeing as needed are usually carried out efficiently in a continuous process.

[0040] In the present invention, the fabric can be processed by a normal continuous scouring and bleaching process. In many cases, dyeing is also carried out continuously. Furthermore, when desizing is carried out after weaving, this process may also be carried out continuously.

[0041] In the present invention, splitting is carried out by alkaline elution of the easily soluble polymer in the splittable composite fiber during scouring in the continuous scouring and bleaching process. During scouring to remove impurities, including sizing agents adhering to the warp yarns of the fabric and oils on the surface of the gray fabric, 70 to 100 g / L of NaOH is added as an alkaline treatment for removing the sea-layer and splitting the fibers, and processing is carried out at a temperature of 80 to 100°C for 30 to 45 minutes to remove the sea-layer and split the fibers.

[0042] Conventionally, the means for removing the easily soluble polymer as in the present invention required a process for splitting fibers separate from the continuous scouring and bleaching process, i.e., a fiber splitting process in which the easily soluble polymer is eluted using a liquid jet dyeing machine, which posed the problem of increasing the number of processing steps and reducing workability and productivity. However, the present invention makes it possible to process the fabric using a general continuous dyeing process, allowing for efficient production.

[0043] The woven fabric of the present invention thus obtained has a soft texture, moderate firmness, and good pilling resistance, achieving a pilling resistance of grade 3 or higher according to JIS L1076 (2012) Method A, and can be used for any season as desired for shirts and blouses. [Example]

[0044] The evaluations used in the examples described below were carried out as follows.

[0045] <Measurement method> (1) Fineness A. Short Fiber Short fibers: The fineness (dtex) was measured according to JIS L1015 (2010).

[0046] The fineness was measured using a sample of short fibers cut from the tow.

[0047] B. Short fibers in textiles A 200mm x 200mm test piece of the resulting fabric was taken, and a 20mm x 20mm measurement sample was taken from the test piece. The end surface of this measurement sample fiber, where the cross section could be observed, was photographed using a scanning electron microscope (SEM S-3400N) to photograph the cross section of a single fiber of the fiber to be measured, and the diameter was measured. The measurement was performed 10 times on randomly selected fibers, the average value was calculated, and the fineness was calculated using a conversion formula. Fineness (dtex) = average diameter (μm) x 0.111 (dtex)

[0048] C. Filament The filament fineness (dtex) was measured according to JIS L1013 (2010) 8.3.1A method.

[0049] In this example, the fineness of the multifilament used in calculating the cover factor of the woven fabric was the fineness of the original yarn for convenience. When measuring the fineness of the filaments contained in the woven fabric, the measurement was performed using the decomposed yarn taken out of the woven fabric. If the length of the decomposed yarn is insufficient, multiple pieces are taken out until the specified length is reached, and if that is still not enough, the length that can be taken out is measured.

[0050] (2) Strength and elongation Measurement was carried out according to the method of JIS-L1015(2010)8.7.

[0051] The strength and elongation were measured using short fiber samples cut from the tow.

[0052] (3) Number of crimps (crest / 25mm) The measurement was carried out in accordance with the method of JIS-L1015(2010)8.12.1. The number of crimps was measured after dry heat treatment of the short fibers at 180°C for 5 minutes without load.

[0053] The number of crimps was measured using a sample of short fibers cut from the tow.

[0054] (4) Degree of crimp Measurement was carried out according to the method of JIS-L1015(2010)8.12.2.

[0055] The crimp degree was measured using a sample of short fibers cut from the tow.

[0056] (5) Yarn count A.Count According to the method of JIS L1095 (2010) 9.4.1, the length L (m) and mass W (g) of the spun yarn were measured to determine the cotton count.

[0057] B. Yarn count in fabric According to JIS L1096 (2010) 8.9.1.1 Method A, three 200mm x 200mm test pieces of processed fabric are taken, and about 25 bundled spun yarns B are taken from the test pieces and their mass W is measured. The cotton count is calculated using the formula below and the average value of three measurements is calculated for each. Cotton count = 2952.7 / W x (1 + (P / 100)) W: Mass of 25 samples (mg) P: Shrinkage rate (%)

[0058] (6) Number of fluffs Using a LASERSPOT manufactured by Keisokuki Kogyo Co., Ltd., the number of fluffs of 1 mm or more, 3 mm or more, and 5 mm or more in length (length perpendicular to the yarn axis) per 10 m of yarn length was measured under the following conditions. - Yarn running speed: 25m / min Measurement time: 4 minutes

[0059] (7) Weave density (warp and weft thread density) This was done in accordance with the measurement of the number of threads per unit length described in JIS L1096 (2010) 8.6, Appendix 11-A-1, Method D. That is, a densimeter was used to measure the number of interference bands that appeared when the densimeter was placed on the fabric, and this was done at five locations, and the simple average was calculated.

[0060] (8) Texture evaluation For the evaluation of texture, test pieces were cut into 10cm pieces, and five subjects were asked to hold the cut test pieces. They were then given scores for "texture" and "firmness / resilience" according to the following criteria, and the average score was calculated. In the present invention, "○" and "◎" were considered to be acceptable. <Texture> 3 points: The fabric is soft to the touch, the surface is smooth, and it feels smooth to the touch. 2 points: The fabric feels slightly soft to the touch, the surface is slightly smooth, and it feels slightly dry to the touch. 1 point: The fabric feels a little stiff to the touch, the surface is a little rough, and it feels a little brushed to the touch. 0 points: The fabric feels hard to the touch, the surface feels rough, and it feels brushed to the touch. <Firmness and elasticity> 3 points: The fabric has a moderate firmness and stiffness. 2 points: The fabric is slightly firm and stiff. 1 point: The fabric is slightly rough and stiff 0 points: The fabric feels rough and stiff. ◎: 2.8 points or more ○:2.4~2.7 points △:1.9~2.3 points ×: 1.8 points or less.

[0061] (9) Pilling The JIS L-1076 (2012) ICI method was used to classify the fabric after 10 hours of processing. Good anti-pilling properties mean that the fabric can maintain a smooth surface feel for a long period of time.

[0062] (10) Metsuke A 25cm x 25cm fabric test piece is taken, thoroughly dried until it reaches or exceeds the equilibrium moisture content, and then left in a room at 20°C and 65% RH for 24 hours to reach moisture equilibrium, after which the weight of the test piece is measured. 2 The value is converted to per square meter and expressed as the average value for two pieces of fabric.

[0063] (11) Mixing rate <Bundled spun yarn A> Measurement was performed according to JIS L1030-2 (2012) 6 dissolution method. <Textiles> The fabric density was measured with a densimeter, and the blending ratio was calculated from the fabric density and fineness of the shied spun yarn B and polyester multifilament. For the shied spun yarn B, 20 strands were extracted from the fabric and the blending ratio was determined using the JIS L1030-2 (2012) 6 dissolution method.

[0064] The results of the examples and comparative examples are shown in Tables 1 and 2.

[0065] [Example 1] The readily soluble polymer was polyethylene terephthalate (PET) copolymerized with 8 mol% of 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid and 9 wt% of polyethylene glycol (SSIA-PEG copolymerized PET, melt viscosity: 100 Pa·s, melting point: 233°C) (coPET). The less soluble polymer was polyethylene terephthalate (PET) copolymerized with 7 mol% of isophthalic acid (IPA copolymerized PET, melt viscosity: 140 Pa·s, melting point: 232°C). Both the readily soluble and less soluble polymers were melted at 280°C using an extruder, then metered using a pump. The melt temperature was raised to 290°C and the mixture was allowed to flow into the nozzle while maintaining the temperature. These polymers were melted separately at 290°C, and then weighed to a mass ratio of 15:85 for the readily soluble polymer and the sparingly soluble polymer. The polymers were extruded from the nozzle using a spinneret to form a composite structure in which the sparingly soluble polymer was distributed circumferentially within the fiber, while the readily soluble polymer was distributed radially from the center of the fiber to disrupt the sparingly soluble polymer. The spun yarn was cooled while being withdrawn at a speed of 1300 m / min, and then cooled using a cold air blower with an air temperature of 20°C, an air speed of 40 m / min, and a cooling length of 600 mm. After cooling, the yarn was treated with 0.1% by mass of process oil, passed through a free roller, and combined with 20 other spindles using a 0.1% convergence guide to obtain an undrawn yarn. Then, while aligning the 20 undrawn yarns, they are introduced into hot water at a temperature of 90°C, and the drawn yarn is drawn at a draw ratio of 2.8 times. The drawn yarn is then subjected to a tension heat treatment for 5 seconds with a heated roller at 160°C, and then introduced into a crimper, where the temperature of the drawn tow is 30°C and the tow pressing pressure is 1.5 kg / cm. 2 The tow was mechanically crimped at a crimping speed of 1.56 dtex, strength of 4.3 cN / dtex, and elongation of 33%.

[0066] The resulting splittable conjugate fiber was used as 100% by mass to obtain shied spun yarn A with a cotton count of 40S using MVS. The resulting shied spun yarn A was used as the warp yarn, and a 56T-24f polyethylene terephthalate multifilament yarn (56 dtex, 24 filaments) was used as the weft yarn. This was woven using an air jet loom to obtain a plain weave fabric. The resulting fabric was subjected to a continuous scouring and bleaching process, in which 70 g / L of NaOH was added for splitting treatment, and alkali treatment was performed at 100°C for 40 minutes. The subsequent dyeing process was processed using a standard dyeing process (intermediate set, dyeing, finishing). The splitting treatment in the continuous scouring and bleaching process removed the easily soluble polymer, and the splittable conjugate fiber in the shied spun yarn A used as the warp yarn was split into three to obtain a single fiber fineness of 0.44 dtex. This resulted in shied spun yarn B, which had a cotton count of 45S, a single fiber fineness of 0.44 dtex, and a polyester staple fiber content of 100% by mass.

[0067] The fabric density after processing was 140 threads / 2.54cm for the warp and 120 threads / 2.54cm for the weft, with a cover factor of 2374. The resulting fabric had a moderate firmness and stiffness, with little pilling and a good feel. The evaluation results are shown in Table 2.

[0068] [Example 2-5] In Example 2, the conjugation ratio of the easily soluble polymer and the hardly soluble polyester in the splittable conjugate staple fiber was changed; in Example 3, the conjugation ratio of the easily soluble polymer and the hardly soluble polyester in the splittable conjugate staple fiber, the number of divisions, and the yarn count were changed; in Example 4, blending with other staple fibers was performed; and in Example 5, the weft yarn was alternately woven with multifilament yarn and shied spun yarn A, as shown in Tables 1 and 2. Except for these changes, a spun yarn and a woven fabric were obtained in the same manner as in Example 1. Table 2 shows the evaluation results of the obtained splittable conjugate staple fibers. In Example 2, the splittable conjugate fiber in shied spun yarn A used as the warp yarn was split into three to give a single fiber fineness of 0.44 dtex, and the content of polyester staple fiber with a single fiber fineness of 0.44 dtex in shied spun yarn B was 100% by mass. In Example 3, the splittable conjugate fiber in the shim spun yarn A used as the warp yarn was split into four parts to give a single fiber fineness of 0.35 dtex, and the content of polyester staple fiber with a single fiber fineness of 0.35 dtex in the shim spun yarn B was 100% by mass in both cases. In Example 4, the splittable conjugate fiber in the shim spun yarn A used as the warp yarn was split into three parts to give a single fiber fineness of 0.44 dtex, and the content of polyester staple fiber with a single fiber fineness of 0.44 dtex in the shim spun yarn B was 66% by mass. In Example 5, the splittable conjugate fiber in the shim spun yarn A used as the warp and weft yarns was split into three parts to give a single fiber fineness of 0.44 dtex, and the content of polyester staple fiber with a single fiber fineness of 0.44 dtex in the shim spun yarn B was 66% by mass.

[0069] [Comparative Example 1] A 40S cotton count spun yarn was obtained by ring spinning using 100% splittable composite fiber with a 15% by weight blend of readily soluble polymer components and an 85% by weight blend of hardly soluble polyester components. The resulting spun yarn had a fuzziness (3 mm or less) of 40 counts per 10 m. The resulting spun yarn was used as the warp yarn and woven with a 56T-24f weft to obtain a plain weave fabric. The resulting fabric was subjected to a continuous scouring and bleaching process, where it was split into fibers. 70 g / L of NaOH was added and the treatment was performed at 100°C for 40 minutes, followed by a standard dyeing process (intermediate set, dyeing, and finishing). In addition, the easily soluble polymer was removed by the splitting treatment in the continuous scouring and bleaching process, and the spun yarn used as the warp yarn was divided into three to have a single fiber fineness of 0.44 dtex, resulting in a spun yarn with a cotton count of 45S and a ring-spun yarn containing 100% polyester staple fiber with a single fiber fineness of 0.44 dtex.

[0070] The fabric density after processing was 140 threads / 2.54cm for the warp and 120 threads / 2.54cm for the weft, with a cover factor of 2374. Although the fabric had a good texture, there was a lot of pilling due to the effects of ring spinning, and the results were not satisfactory.

[0071] Comparative Example 2 In Comparative Example 2, a shied spun yarn with a cotton count of 45'S was obtained using 100% by mass of polyester staple fibers (Toray: T403-1.45 dtex, 38 mm) and MVS. The obtained shied spun yarn was used as the warp yarn, and a 56T-24f filament yarn was used as the weft yarn. This was woven using an air jet loom to obtain a plain weave fabric. The obtained fabric was subjected to a conventional dyeing process, resulting in a warp yarn density of 140 threads / 2.54 cm, a weft yarn density of 120 threads / 2.54 cm, and a cover factor of 2374. The content of polyester staple fibers with a single fiber fineness of 0.2 to 0.8 dtex in the shied spun yarn used as the warp yarn was 0% by mass. The fabric had a firmness and body, but the handle was stiff, and unsatisfactory results were not obtained.

[0072] Comparative Example 3 Using 100% by mass of splittable composite fiber with a 20% by mass blend of readily soluble polymer components and an 80% by mass blend of hardly soluble polyester components, shim-spun yarn A with a cotton count of 40'S was obtained by MVS. The resulting shim-spun yarn A was used as the warp yarn, and a plain weave fabric was woven using a 56T-24f weft yarn. The resulting fabric was subjected to a continuous scouring and bleaching process, in which 70g / L of NaOH was added for splitting treatment, and alkali treatment was performed at 100°C for 40 minutes. The subsequent dyeing process was carried out using the standard dyeing process (intermediate set, dyeing, finishing). In addition, the easily soluble polymer was removed by the fiber splitting treatment in the continuous scouring and bleaching process, and the shied spun yarn A used as the warp yarn was divided into two to have a single fiber fineness of 0.88 dtex and a cotton count of 45S, and the content of polyester short fibers with a single fiber fineness of 0.2 to 0.8 dtex in the shied spun yarn B was 0 mass%.

[0073] The fabric density after processing was 140 warp threads / 2.54 cm and 120 weft threads / 2.54 cm, with a cover factor of 2296. The resulting fabric had little pilling, but the texture was hard and the results were unsatisfactory.

[0074] [Reference example 1] Using 100% by mass of splittable composite fiber containing 15% by mass of readily soluble polymer components and 85% by mass of hardly soluble polyester components, shied spun yarn A with a cotton count of 40s was obtained by MVS. The resulting shied spun yarn A was used as the warp and weft yarns and woven to obtain a plain weave fabric. The resulting fabric was subjected to a continuous scouring and bleaching process in which 70 g / L of NaOH was added for splitting treatment, and the treatment was carried out at 100°C for 40 minutes. The subsequent dyeing process was carried out using a standard dyeing process (intermediate set, dyeing, and finishing). The easily soluble polymer was removed by the splitting treatment in the continuous scouring and bleaching process, and shied spun yarn A used as the warp yarn was split into three to obtain a single fiber fineness of 0.44 dtex, resulting in shied spun yarn B with a cotton count of 45s. The content of polyester staple fibers with a single fiber fineness of 0.44 dtex in shied spun yarn B was 100% by mass.

[0075] The density of the fabric after processing was 140 threads / 2.54 cm for the warp and 70 threads / 2.54 cm for the weft, with a cover factor of 2282. The fabric obtained had little pilling and a good feel, but lacked firmness and was not satisfactory for use in shirts.

[0076] [Table 1]

[0077] [Table 2]

[0078] The woven fabrics produced in Examples 1 to 5 were all soft but firm, with a smooth surface, a dry feel, and good anti-pilling properties, making them suitable for use in shirts regardless of the season. However, the woven fabrics of Examples 1 to 4 were particularly excellent, having a soft texture and moderate firmness.

Claims

1. A woven fabric comprising 40 to 90% by mass of a shied spun yarn B containing 40 to 100% by mass of polyester staple fibers having a single fiber fineness of 0.2 to 0.8 dtex, and 10 to 60% by mass of polyester multifilaments, the shied spun yarn B having a cover factor CF of 2000 to 2500 as shown in the following formula (2), wherein the shied spun yarn B is woven using the shied spun yarn A described below, and then the easily soluble polymer in the splittable composite fiber contained in the shied spun yarn A is eluted and removed, followed by splitting. Bundled spun yarn A: Bundled spun yarn A containing 50% by mass or more and 100% by mass or less of short fibers of splittable conjugate fibers having a sea-island structure in which a hardly soluble polyester is used as an island component and a readily soluble polymer is used as a sea component, And the bundled spun yarn satisfies the following (a) to (c): (a) The splittable conjugate fiber has a single fiber fineness of 1.0 dtex or more and 2.0 dtex or less. (b) The splittable conjugate fiber satisfies the following formula (1): 0.2≦fineness (dtex) of splittable composite fiber×composite ratio of island component fibers / number of island component fibers≦0.77 (1) (c) In the spun yarn A, the number of fluffs of 3 mm or more is 20 or less per 10 m. CF = √(5,315 / warp yarn count) × warp yarn density (count / 2.54 cm) + √(5,315 / weft yarn count) × weft yarn density (count / 2.54 cm) (2)

2. The woven fabric according to claim 1, wherein the pilling according to JIS L1076 (2012) A method is grade 3 or higher.

3. A woven fabric as described in claim 1 or 2, wherein the cotton count of the bundled spun yarn A is 30 to 60.

4. A woven fabric described in any of claims 1 to 3, wherein the bundled spun yarn B is woven using the bundled spun yarn A, and then in a continuous refining and bleaching process, the split composite fibers contained in the bundled spun yarn A are deseased and split by leaching treatment with an easily soluble polymer.

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