Hair deformation base, hair deformation treatment agent, and hair deformation treatment method
The hair modification base and treatment agent formulation addresses pH fluctuations and stability issues, enhancing shine and manageability while improving curl-straightening and curl-forming capabilities.
Patent Information
- Authority / Receiving Office
- JP · JP
- Patent Type
- Patents
- Current Assignee / Owner
- ARIMINO
- Filing Date
- 2022-05-10
- Publication Date
- 2026-04-17
AI Technical Summary
Existing hair shaping technologies face issues with pH fluctuations during application, leading to difficulty in achieving desired hair shapes and inadequate shine and manageability, and there is a need for improved stability and curl-straightening capabilities.
A hair modification base and treatment agent formulation containing specific amounts of sodium citrate, citric acid, nonionic surfactants, higher alcohols, and reducing agents, with a pH range of 3.6 to 6.4, to stabilize pH and enhance shine and manageability.
The formulation effectively stabilizes pH fluctuations, improves hair shine and manageability, and enhances curl-straightening and curl-forming capabilities.
Smart Images

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Abstract
Description
Technical Field
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[0001] The present invention relates to a hair shaping base, a hair shaping treatment agent, and a hair shaping treatment method.
Background Art
[0002] Conventionally, in hair shaping treatments such as hair straightening, curling, or permanent waving, the cystine bonds in the hair are reduced with a reducing agent to a desired shape, and then fixed again with an oxidizing agent or the like.
[0003] When the hair shaping treatment is performed in an acidic region, butyrolactone thiol or glyceryl monothioglycolate is used as a reducing agent. A hair shaping agent containing these reducing agents is generally mixed with a base when performing the hair shaping treatment and used after being prepared at the time of use. That is, a hair shaping agent containing a reducing agent and a hair shaping base are prepared at the time of use and then applied to the hair as a hair shaping treatment agent.
[0004] For example, Patent Document 1 discloses a hair treatment agent composition that can be used under acidic pH conditions, which can sufficiently suppress hair damage and exhibit a good wave. Further, Patent Document 2 discloses a second hair shaping agent that can maintain the hair shaping effect for a long period of time when used after a first hair shaping agent having a pH of 7.0 or less and excellent in hair shaping effect.
Prior Art Documents
Patent Documents
[0005]
Patent Document 1
Patent Document 2
Summary of the Invention
[0007] The inventors considered it effective to give the hair-modifying base a buffering function in order to suppress fluctuations in the pH of the preparation made immediately before use. In their investigation of giving the hair-modifying base a buffering function, the inventors encountered a problem in which the hair-modifying base, when in the form of a cream, tends to separate when a large amount of buffering components such as sodium citrate is incorporated. In other words, it was difficult to achieve both an increased buffering function and increased stability of the hair-modifying base.
[0008] Another issue was the constant demand for improved hair shine, and further enhancing hair shine was also a challenge. Therefore, the present invention aims to provide a hair modification base and a hair modification treatment agent that can suppress pH fluctuations and have excellent stability when a hair modification agent containing a reducing agent and a hair modification base are prepared immediately before use and applied to the hair, and also to provide a hair modification treatment agent that improves the shine and manageability of the finished hair, and also has excellent curl-straightening and curl-forming capabilities. [Means for solving the problem]
[0009] The inventors diligently studied to solve the above problems. As a result, they found that a hair deformation base, a hair deformation treatment agent, and a hair deformation treatment method having the following configuration can solve the above problems, and thus completed the present invention.
[0010] The present invention includes, for example, the following [1] to
[14] . [1] A hair modification base to be used in combination with a hair modification agent containing 22-70% by mass of a reducing agent (D1) in 100% by mass of the hair modification agent, wherein 100% by mass of the hair modification base contains 1.5-10% by mass of sodium citrate (A), 0.14-8.4% by mass of citric acid (B), 0.1-5% by mass of a nonionic surfactant (C), and 3-11% by mass of a higher alcohol (J), and has a pH of 3.6-6.4 at 25°C.
[0011] [2] The hair modification base according to [1], comprising at least one reducing agent (D2) selected from the group consisting of cysteamine, L-cysteine, thioglycolic acid, thiolactic acid, and thioglycerin.
[0012] [3] A hair modification base according to [1] or [2], comprising 1 to 10% by mass of a cationic surfactant (K).
[0013] [4] A hair modification base according to any one of [1] to [3], comprising 1 to 3.5% by mass of a liquid oil (L) at 25°C.
[0014] [5] A hair modification base according to any one of [1] to [4], comprising 1 to 4% by mass of a polyhydric alcohol (M).
[0015] [6] A hair modification treatment agent comprising a hair modification agent and a hair modification base, wherein 100% by mass of the hair modification agent contains 42-70% by mass of glyceryl monothioglycolate and a solvent (G), and 100% by mass of the hair modification base contains 1.5-10% by mass of sodium citrate (A), 0.14-8.4% by mass of citric acid (B), 0.1-5% by mass of nonionic surfactant (C), and 3-11% by mass of higher alcohol (J), and the pH of the hair modification base at 25°C is 3.6-6.4.
[0016] [7] A hair modification treatment agent comprising a hair modification agent and a hair modification base, wherein the hair modification agent comprises 22 to 66% by mass of butyrolactone thiol and a solvent (G) in 100% by mass of the hair modification agent, and the hair modification base comprises 1.5 to 10% by mass of sodium citrate (A), 0.14 to 8.4% by mass of citric acid (B), 0.1 to 5% by mass of nonionic surfactant (C), and 3 to 11% by mass of higher alcohol (J), and the pH of the hair modification base at 25°C is 3.6 to 6.4.
[0017] [8] The hair modification agent according to [6] or [7], wherein the hair modification agent contains 21 to 54.6% by mass of ethylene carbonate (E).
[0018] [9] The hair modification agent according to any one of [6] to [8], wherein the hair modification agent contains 3.5 to 23.4% by mass of propylene carbonate (F).
[0019]
[10] The hair modification treatment agent according to any one of [6] to [9], wherein the solvent (G) is at least one selected from the group consisting of PEG / PPG / polybutylene glycol-8 / 5 / 3 glycerin, bisethoxydiglycol succinate, PEG-8, and N-methylpyrrolidone.
[0020]
[11] A hair modification treatment method comprising: a mixing step (I) of mixing a hair modification agent containing 42 to 70% by mass of glyceryl monothioglycolate and a solvent (G) in 100% by mass of the hair modification agent and a hair modification base described in any of [1] to [5] in a mass ratio of hair modification agent:hair modification base = 1:10 to prepare a mixed solution; and an application step (II) of applying the obtained mixed solution to the hair after the mixing step (I).
[0021]
[12] A hair shaping agent containing 22 to 66% by mass of butyrolactone thiol and a solvent (G) in 100% by mass of the hair shaping agent, and the hair shaping base described in any one of [1] to [5] are mixed at a mass ratio of the hair shaping agent: the hair shaping base = 1:10 to prepare a mixed solution, and a mixing step (I), and after the mixing step (I), the obtained mixed solution is applied to the hair, and an application step (II) is included, a hair shaping treatment method.
[0022]
[13] After the application step (II), a standing step (III) of standing at 20 to 25°C for 20 to 30 minutes, after the standing step (III), a washing step (IV) of washing the standing hair with water, and after the washing step (IV), a step (V) of heating the washed hair are included, the hair shaping treatment method described in
[11] .
[0023]
[14] After the application step (II), a standing step (III) of standing at 20 to 25°C for 20 to 30 minutes, after the standing step (III), a washing step (IV) of washing the standing hair with water, and after the washing step (IV), a step (V) of heating the washed hair are included, the hair shaping treatment method described in
[12] .
Advantages of the Invention
[0024] The present invention can provide a hair shaping base and a hair shaping treatment agent that can suppress fluctuations in pH and are also excellent in the stability of the agent when a hair shaping agent containing a reducing agent and a hair shaping base are prepared at the time of use and applied to the hair, and can also provide a hair shaping treatment agent that improves the gloss and smoothness of the finished hair and is also excellent in the curl elongation and curl forming power.
Brief Description of the Drawings
[0025] [Figure 1] FIG. 1 shows the hair bundle 1 used in the examples. The hair bundle 1 was obtained by bleaching 2.5 g of a wavy unprocessed hair bundle obtained at a salon.
Modes for Carrying Out the Invention
[0027] <Base for hair modification> The hair modification base of the present invention is used by mixing it with a hair modification agent containing 22 to 70% by mass of a reducing agent (D1) in a total volume of 100% by mass of the hair modification agent.
[0028] The hair modification base of the present invention contains 1.5 to 10% by mass of sodium citrate (A), 0.14 to 8.4% by mass of citric acid (B), 0.1 to 5% by mass of nonionic surfactant (C), and 3 to 11% by mass of higher alcohol (J) per 100% by mass of the hair modification base, and has a pH of 3.6 to 6.4 at 25°C.
[0029] [Sodium citrate (A)] The hair modification base of the present invention contains 1.5 to 10% by mass, preferably 4 to 10% by mass, and more preferably 4 to 7% by mass, of sodium citrate (A). If the amount of sodium citrate (A) is less than the lower limit, the emulsification of the hair modification base may be poor, and aggregates that do not disappear by stirring may be formed. If the amount of sodium citrate (A) is more than the upper limit, it may be difficult to mix when preparing the solution for use, and it may be difficult to suppress pH fluctuations when applied to the hair.
[0030] The inventors have discovered that by incorporating specific amounts of sodium citrate (A) and citric acid (B), described later, into the hair modification base, and further incorporating a nonionic surfactant (C) and a higher alcohol (J), it is possible to suppress pH fluctuations when the hair modification agent containing a reducing agent and the hair modification base are prepared immediately before use and applied to the hair.
[0031] The inventors of this invention found that even when buffering agents such as phosphoric acid and sodium hydroxide were incorporated into the hair modification base, they were unable to suppress pH fluctuations when applied to hair. Therefore, they believe that by incorporating specific amounts of sodium citrate (A) and citric acid (B), described later, it is possible to suppress pH fluctuations by reducing the influence of components such as proteins that leak out from the hair.
[0032] [Citric acid (B)] The hair modification base of the present invention contains 0.14 to 8.4% by mass, preferably 0.2 to 0.4% by mass, of citric acid (B). If the amount of citric acid (B) is less than the lower limit, the pH of the hair-modifying base may deviate from the specified value, potentially reducing the reducing power of the reducing agent. If the amount of sodium citrate (A) is more than the upper limit, the finished hair may become less manageable.
[0033] The hair modification base of the present invention is particularly preferable if it contains 0.2 to 0.4% by mass of citric acid (B), as this makes it easier to adjust the pH at 25°C to around 6 in relation to the amount of sodium citrate (A) mentioned above, and strengthens the reducing power of the reducing agent (D1) of the hair modification agent used in combination.
[0034] [Nonionic surfactant (C)] The hair modification base of the present invention contains 0.1 to 5% by mass, preferably 0.2 to 5.0% by mass, and more preferably 0.2 to 2.5% by mass, of a nonionic surfactant (C). If the amount of nonionic surfactant (C) is less than the lower limit, the emulsification of the hair-modifying base may be poor, and aggregates that do not disappear by stirring may be formed. If the amount of nonionic surfactant (C) is more than the upper limit, the finished hair may have poor manageability.
[0035] As the nonionic surfactant (C), polyoxyethylene alkyl ethers, polyoxyethylene fatty acid esters, polyoxyethylene polyhydric alcohol fatty acid esters, polyoxyethylene hydrogenated castor oil, polyoxyethylene sorbitan fatty acid esters, glycol fatty acid esters, glycerin fatty acid esters, sorbitan fatty acid esters, sucrose fatty acid esters, polyglycerin fatty acid esters, fatty acid alkanolamides, and alkyl glycosides are preferred. Among these, polyoxyethylene alkyl ethers are more preferred due to their excellent emulsification stability.
[0036] Among the polyoxyethylene alkyl ethers, Steareth-2, Steareth-11, and Ceteth-150 are even more preferred due to their excellent smoothness and emulsification stability, and using them in combination is particularly preferable.
[0037] When using Steareth-2, Steareth-11, and Ceteth-150 in combination as nonionic surfactant (C), it is particularly preferable that Steareth-2 is 0.05 to 1.6% by mass, Steareth-11 is 0.05 to 3.2% by mass, and Ceteth-150 is 0.01 to 0.2% by mass, as this provides particularly excellent smoothness and excellent emulsification stability. Nonionic surfactant (C) may be used alone or in combination of two or more types.
[0038] [Higher alcohol (J)] The hair modification base of the present invention contains 3 to 11% by mass, preferably 5 to 7.24% by mass, of a higher alcohol (J). If the amount of higher alcohol (J) is less than the lower limit, the hair may lack smoothness, slipperiness, and moisture when straightened in the acidic range. If the amount is more than the upper limit, the hair may lack smoothness and slipperiness.
[0039] The higher alcohol (J) is more preferably one having an alkyl group with 14 to 22 carbon atoms, even more preferably one having an alkyl group with 14 to 18 carbon atoms, and most preferably one having an alkyl group with 16 to 18 carbon atoms. The alkyl group is preferably a linear alkyl group.
[0040] Specifically, examples of higher alcohols (J) include myristyl alcohol, cetanol, cetearyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, and oleyl alcohol. Among these, myristyl alcohol, cetanol, cetearyl alcohol, and behenyl alcohol are more preferred as higher alcohols (J) because they provide excellent flexibility, smoothness, and moisture to the finished hair when straightened in an acidic range. Myristyl alcohol, cetanol, and cetearyl alcohol are even more preferred because they provide even better flexibility, smoothness, and moisture. Cetanol and cetearyl alcohol are particularly preferred because they provide especially excellent flexibility, smoothness, and moisture.
[0041] When cetanol and cetearyl alcohol are used in combination as higher alcohols (J), it is particularly preferable that cetanol is present in a concentration of 2.5 to 10.76% by mass and cetearyl alcohol in a concentration of 0.2 to 0.3% by mass, as this provides excellent flexibility, smoothness, and moisturizing properties for the hair. The higher alcohol (J) may be used alone or in combination of two or more types.
[0042] [Issue] The hair modification base of the present invention has a pH of 3.6 to 6.4 at 25°C, preferably 4.8 to 6.4% by mass, and more preferably 5.6 to 6.4%. The hair-deforming base of the present invention is particularly preferable when its pH at 25°C is 5.6 to 6.4, because when butyrolactone thiol or glyceryl monothioglycol is included as a reducing agent (D1) in the hair-deforming agent used in combination with it, it has strong reducing power and can easily deform hair into the desired shape.
[0043] The inventors believe that by incorporating specific amounts of sodium citrate (A) and citric acid (B) into a hair modification base, the pH at 25°C can be set to 3.6-6.4, thereby suppressing pH fluctuations on the hair.
[0044] [Reducing agent (D2)] The hair modification base of the present invention preferably contains at least one reducing agent (D2) selected from the group consisting of cysteamine, L-cysteine, thioglycolic acid, thiolactic acid, and thioglycerin. The hair modification base of the present invention preferably contains 0.1 to 2% by mass of a reducing agent (D2). When the reducing agent (D2) is within the aforementioned range, it is preferable because it results in excellent hair growth, firmness, and body.
[0045] The reducing agent (D2) is more preferably cysteamine, L-cysteine, and thioglycolic acid, with thioglycolic acid being particularly preferred because it provides excellent firmness and body to the hair when straightened in an acidic environment.
[0046] Examples of thioglycolic acid include thioglycolic acid and its salts. Specifically, these include ammonium thioglycolate, sodium thioglycolate, and monoethanolamine thioglycolate. Among these, ammonium thioglycolate is preferred because it provides excellent firmness and body to the hair. The reducing agent (D2) may be used alone or in combination of two or more types.
[0047] [Cationic surfactant (K)] The hair modification base of the present invention preferably contains 1 to 10% by mass, more preferably 1 to 6% by mass, and even more preferably 1.4 to 5% by mass of a cationic surfactant (K). When the cationic surfactant (K) is within the aforementioned range, it is preferable because it provides excellent emulsification stability of the hair modification base and also excellent hair flexibility.
[0048] Preferably, the cationic surfactant (K) is alkyltrimethylammonium chloride, alkyltrimethylammonium bromide, and alkyltrimonium sulfate. Specifically, from the viewpoint of excellent emulsification stability of the hair modification base, hair smoothness, and flexibility, cetrimonium chloride, steartrimonium chloride, behentrimonium chloride, behentrimonium methosulfate, cetrimonium methosulfate, behentrimonium sulfate, quaternium-87, and quaternium-91 are preferred.
[0049] When using behentrimonium sulfate, steartrimonium chloride, cetrimonium chloride, and quaternium-87 in combination as cationic surfactants (K), it is particularly preferable that the amounts of behentrimonium sulfate be 0.3-2.3% by mass, steartrimonium chloride be 0.4-5% by mass, cetrimonium chloride be 0.1-1.3% by mass, and quaternium-87 quaternium-87 be 0.1-1.7% by mass, as this results in superior hair flexibility, smoothness, and moisture when straightened in an acidic range. Cationic surfactants (K) may be used alone or in combination of two or more types.
[0050] [Liquid oils and fats at 25°C (L)] The hair modification base of the present invention preferably contains 0.1 to 10% by mass, more preferably 1 to 5% by mass, of a liquid oil (L) at 25°C. It is preferable that the liquid oil (L) at 25℃ is within the above range, as this results in excellent smoothness, slipperiness, and moisturizing properties for the hair.
[0051] Any oil or fat (L) that is liquid at 25°C can be used without particular limitations, but mineral oil, diisopropyl adipate, ethylhexyl isononanoate, octyldodecyl myristate, isostearyl isostearate, isononyl isononanoate, diethylhexyl succinate, isopropyl myristate, cetyl ethylhexanoate, isopropyl palmitate, diisopropyl dilinoleate, jojoba seed oil, squalane, and argania spinosa kernel oil are preferred, and at least one selected from mineral oil, diisopropyl adipate, diethylhexyl succinate, and isopropyl myristate is more preferred.
[0052] Among these, it is even more preferable that the oil (L) which is liquid at 25°C is at least one selected from mineral oil and diisopropyl adipate, as it is particularly excellent in terms of hair flexibility, smoothness, and moisturizing properties when straightened in an acidic range. Liquid oils and fats (L) at 25°C may be used individually or in combination of two or more types.
[0053] [Polyhydric alcohol (M)] The hair modification base of the present invention preferably contains 1 to 4% by mass, more preferably 3 to 4% by mass, of a polyhydric alcohol (M). When the polyhydric alcohol (M) is within the aforementioned range, it is preferable because it results in excellent smoothness, slipperiness, and moisturizing properties for the hair.
[0054] While any polyhydric alcohol (M) can be used without particular restriction, 1,3-butylene glycol, propylene glycol, propanediol, and glycerin are preferred because they provide particularly excellent flexibility, smoothness, and moisturizing properties to the hair when straightened in an acidic environment. Polyhydric alcohols (M) may be used individually or in combination of two or more types.
[0055] <Hair Modifier> The hair modification agent of the present invention contains 22 to 70% by mass of a reducing agent (D1) in 100% by mass of the hair modification agent. The hair modification agent is used in mixture with a hair modification base.
[0056] [Reducing agent (D1)] The hair modifier of the present invention contains 22 to 70% by mass, preferably 30 to 70% by mass, and more preferably 42 to 70% by mass, of a reducing agent (D1). When the reducing agent (D1) is within the aforementioned range, it is preferable because it provides excellent straightening of hair curls, shine, and ease of mixing with the hair modification base, while also minimizing damage to the hair.
[0057] As the reducing agent (D1), butyrolactone thiol and glyceryl monothioglycol are preferred due to their excellent reducing power in the acidic range, and butyrolactone thiol is more preferred due to its particularly excellent reducing power in the acidic range and its superior shine on the finished hair.
[0058] When using butyrolactone thiol in the hair modification agent of the present invention, it is preferable to contain 22 to 66% by mass, and more preferably 30 to 55% by mass. When using glyceryl monothioglycol, it is preferable to contain 42 to 70% by mass. The reducing agent (D1) may be used alone or in combination of two or more types.
[0059] [Solvent (G)] The hair modifier of the present invention preferably contains 11 to 78% by mass, more preferably 11 to 70% by mass, of solvent (G). When the solvent (G) is within the aforementioned range, it is preferable because it results in excellent shine and manageability of the hair.
[0060] The solvent (G) is not particularly limited as long as it can dissolve the reducing agent (D1) described above, but it is preferable that the solvent (G) is at least one selected from the group consisting of PEG / PPG / polybutylene glycol-8 / 5 / 3 glycerin, bisethoxydiglycol succinate, PEG-8, and N-methylpyrrolidone, and PEG / PPG / polybutylene glycol-8 / 5 / 3 glycerin is even more preferred because it is excellent in terms of hair flexibility, slipperiness, and miscibility with the hair modification base. Solvent (G) may be used alone or in combination of two or more types.
[0061] [Ethylene (E) carbonate] The hair-modifying agent of the present invention preferably contains ethylene carbonate (E) in an amount of 21 to 54.6% by mass, more preferably 21 to 49% by mass. When ethylene carbonate (E) is within the aforementioned range, it is preferable because it results in excellent shine and manageability of the hair.
[0062] [Propylene carbonate (F)] The hair modifier of the present invention preferably contains propylene carbonate (F) in an amount of 3.5 to 23.4% by mass, more preferably 3.5 to 21% by mass. When the amount of propylene carbonate (F) is within the aforementioned range, it is preferable because it results in excellent shine and manageability of the hair.
[0063] The hair modification agent of the present invention has a mass ratio (ethylene carbonate (E) + propylene carbonate (F):solvent (G)) of the total mass of ethylene carbonate (E) and propylene carbonate (F) to the mass of solvent (G), which is preferably 9:1 to 1:1, more preferably 9:1 to 7:3. A mass ratio within this range is preferable because it provides excellent shine to the hair and good mixability with the hair modification base.
[0064] In the present invention, the hair modifier is particularly preferable when the mass ratio of the total mass of ethylene carbonate (E) and propylene carbonate (F) to the mass of PEG / PPG / polybutylene glycol-8 / 5 / 3 glycerin is 9:1 to 7:3, as this provides excellent flexibility, slipperiness, and mixability with the hair modifier base.
[0065] <Hair deformation treatment agent> In the present invention, the term "hair modification treatment agent" refers to a mixture of a hair modification agent and a hair modification base. Typically, the hair modification agent and the hair modification base are mixed immediately before use to obtain the hair modification treatment agent, which is then applied to the hair. The hair modification treatment agent of the present invention comprises a hair modification agent and a hair modification base.
[0066] The hair modification treatment agent of the present invention comprises 42 to 70% by mass of glyceryl monothioglycolate and a solvent (G) in 100% by mass of the hair modification agent, and comprises 1.5 to 10% by mass of sodium citrate (A), 0.14 to 8.4% by mass of citric acid (B), 0.1 to 5% by mass of nonionic surfactant (C), and 3 to 11% by mass of higher alcohol (J) in 100% by mass of the hair modification base, wherein the pH of the hair modification base at 25°C is 3.6 to 6.4.
[0067] The hair modification treatment agent of the present invention comprises 22 to 66% by mass of butyrolactone thiol and a solvent (G) in 100% by mass of the hair modification agent, and comprises 1.5 to 10% by mass of sodium citrate (A), 0.14 to 8.4% by mass of citric acid (B), 0.1 to 5% by mass of nonionic surfactant (C), and 3 to 11% by mass of higher alcohol (J) in 100% by mass of the hair modification base, wherein the pH of the hair modification base at 25°C is 3.6 to 6.4.
[0068] The hair modification treatment agent of the present invention is preferable to contain butyrolactone thiol because it provides excellent shine to the finished hair. The hair modification treatment agent of the present invention may contain 22 to 70% by mass of at least one reducing agent (D1) selected from the group consisting of butyrolactone thiol and glyceryl monothioglycolate in 100% by mass of the hair modification agent.
[0069] The hair modification treatment agent of the present invention can suppress pH fluctuations when applied to hair and exhibits excellent stability. Furthermore, it improves the shine and manageability of the finished hair, and also provides excellent straightening and curl-forming capabilities.
[0070] The hair treatment agent of the present invention can be used for straightening, hot perming, and cold perming, but it is preferable to use it for straightening due to its minimal damage to the hair and its excellent ability to straighten out curls.
[0071] <Hair deformation treatment method> The hair deformation treatment method of the present invention comprises a mixing step (I) in which a hair deformation agent containing 42 to 70% by mass of glyceryl monothioglycolate and a solvent (G) in 100% by mass of the hair deformation agent is mixed with the hair deformation base of the present invention described above in a mass ratio of hair deformation agent:hair deformation base = 1:10 to prepare a mixed solution, and an application step (II) in which the obtained mixed solution is applied to the hair after the mixing step (I).
[0072] The hair deformation treatment method of the present invention comprises a mixing step (I) in which a hair deformation agent containing 22 to 66% by mass of butyrolactone thiol and solvent (G) in 100% by mass of the hair deformation agent is mixed with the hair deformation base of the present invention described above in a mass ratio of hair deformation agent:hair deformation base = 1:10 to prepare a mixed solution, and an application step (II) in which the obtained mixed solution is applied to the hair after the mixing step (I).
[0073] The hair modification method of the present invention is preferable because it results in excellent shine on the finished hair, and therefore the hair modification agent preferably contains butyrolactone thiol. The hair deformation treatment method of the present invention may contain 22 to 70% by mass of at least one reducing agent (D1) selected from the group consisting of butyrolactone thiol and glyceryl monothioglycolate in 100% by mass of the hair deformation agent.
[0074] The hair deformation treatment method of the present invention preferably comprises the following steps: an application step (II), a resting step (III) in which the hair is left at 20 to 25°C for 20 to 30 minutes; a washing step (IV) in which the hair that has been left to rest is washed with water after the resting step (III); and a heating step (V) in which the washed hair is heated after the washing step (IV).
[0075] In step (V), which involves heating the hair, it is preferable to heat the hair using a hair iron when performing a straightening treatment. The temperature of the hair iron is preferably 170-210°C, more preferably 178-182°C. For example, the ADST Premium DS2 (HAKKO Corporation) can be used as the hair iron.
[0076] In step (V) of heating the hair, a preferred method of heating the hair is to apply the hair iron to the dry hair strands from the roots to the ends for 2 to 15 seconds, preferably 1 to 10 times, more preferably 2 to 4 times.
[0077] <Other ingredients> The hair modification base of the present invention typically contains water. The water content is not particularly limited and can be adjusted as appropriate depending on the intended use. Specifically, the water can be tap water, deionized water, distilled water, purified water, or natural water, and sterilized water is preferred. The hair modification base of the present invention preferably contains 50 to 80% by mass of water, more preferably 60 to 75% by mass, and is preferably ion-exchanged water.
[0078] The hair-modifying agent and hair-modifying base of the present invention may contain any components other than those mentioned above, as long as they do not impair the effects of the present invention. Examples of optional components include emulsifiers, solubilizers, wetting agents, water-soluble polymers, sugars, plant extracts, stabilizers, humectants, herbal medicines, chelating agents, preservatives, antioxidants, cooling agents, antistatic agents, vitamins, proteins, fragrances, pigments, and solvents.
[0079] <Manufacturing method> The hair-modifying agent and hair-modifying base of the present invention can be manufactured by stirring, mixing, heating, dissolving, dispersing, etc., using known methods, other than using the above-mentioned components in the above-mentioned amounts, and the manufacturing method is not particularly limited. The manufacturing method may be carried out under heating conditions in order to uniformly mix each component. When manufacturing under heating conditions, for example, a temperature of 75 to 85°C can be given.
[0080] The hair modification treatment agent of the present invention can be prepared immediately before use by measuring out a desired amount of the hair modification agent and the hair modification base in a commercially available hair color cup (Asian Color Cup M Red: manufactured by Arimino Co., Ltd.), preferably in a mass ratio of hair modification agent:hair modification base = 1:10, and mixing them with a commercially available hair color stirrer or the like.
[0081] <Dosage form> The hair deformer of the present invention is preferably a transparent liquid. The hair modification base of the present invention is preferably in the form of a cream. The hair modification agent of the present invention is more preferably in the form of a watery liquid, from the viewpoint of being easily mixed uniformly with the hair modification base. [Examples]
[0082] The present invention will now be described in more detail with reference to examples, but the present invention is not limited thereto.
[0083] <Examples 1-81, Comparative Examples 1-13> In the examples and comparative examples, the commercially available products listed in Table 1 were used. The numerical values in the formulations of Examples 1 to 58 and Comparative Examples 1 to 3 represent the mass percentage of each component when the hair modifier is set to 100% by mass, and the values shown are converted to pure content.
[0084] The numerical values for the formulations in Examples 59 to 81 and Comparative Examples 4 to 13 represent the mass percentage of each component when the hair modification base is set to 100% by mass, and the values shown are converted to pure content. Hair modification bases and hair modification agents were manufactured using the formulations described in Tables 2 to 9, and these were used as samples for physical property evaluation and sensory evaluation.
[0085] [Table 1]
[0086] For evaluation items (1) and (2), physical properties were evaluated. For evaluation item (3), a hair modification treatment agent was prepared immediately before use, and then a sensory evaluation was performed. For evaluation items (4) to (7), hair bundle 1, which had been pre-treated under the conditions described below, was straightened, and a sensory evaluation was performed according to the evaluation criteria. For evaluation items (8) and (9), hair bundle 2, which had been pre-treated under the conditions described below, was subjected to a hot perm treatment, and a sensory evaluation was conducted according to the evaluation criteria. For evaluation item (10), hair bundle 2, which had been pre-treated under the conditions described below, was subjected to a cold perm treatment, and a sensory evaluation was performed according to the evaluation criteria.
[0087] In Examples 1-58 and Comparative Examples 1-3, the hair-modifying agent of the sample and the hair-modifying base with the same formulation as in Example 68 were prepared immediately before use in a ratio of hair-modifying agent:hair-modifying base = 1:10. In Examples 59-81 and Comparative Examples 4-13, the hair modification agent and the hair modification base of the sample, which had the same formulation as in Example 24, were prepared immediately before use at a ratio of hair modification agent:hair modification base = 1:10.
[0088] [Pre-treatment of hair bundles: Hair bundle 1] 2.5g of untreated, wavy hair obtained from a salon was bleached at 45°C for 15 minutes using a bleaching agent (Arimino 120 Bleach: manufactured by Arimino Co., Ltd.) to damage the hair. Afterwards, it was rinsed with running water, washed with 1g of shampoo (Sherpa Design Supplement D-2 Shampoo: manufactured by Arimino Co., Ltd.), rinsed with running water, and dried with a hairdryer. The wavy hair obtained from this pretreatment (Figure 1) was designated as hair bundle 1.
[0089] [Pre-treatment of hair bundles: Hair bundle 2] 2.5g of 30cm strands of human black hair (BS-B3A, manufactured by Beaulux Co., Ltd.) were bleached at 45°C for 15 minutes using a bleaching agent (Arimino 120 Bleach, manufactured by Arimino Co., Ltd.) to damage the hair. Afterwards, the hair was rinsed with running water, washed with 1g of shampoo (Sherpa Design Supplement D-2 Shampoo, manufactured by Arimino Co., Ltd.), rinsed with running water, and dried with a hairdryer. The straight hair obtained from this pretreatment was designated as hair strand 2.
[0090] [Straightening treatment] The hair deformation agent and hair deformation base were prepared immediately before use in a ratio of hair deformation agent:hair deformation base = 1:10 to obtain a hair deformation treatment agent. 30g of the obtained hair modification treatment agent was measured out and applied evenly with a brush to a pre-moistened hair bundle 1. After leaving it at 25°C for 30 minutes, it was rinsed with water and dried with a hairdryer. Next, a hair iron (HAKKO ADST Premium DS2, 180℃) was used to perform an iron-through treatment (from the roots to the ends of the hair strands in approximately 12 seconds) three times.
[0091] Next, 30g of hair treatment containing an oxidizing agent (Arimino Qualine After Cream: manufactured by Arimino Co., Ltd.) was applied evenly, left at 25°C for 15 minutes, then rinsed with water and dried with a hairdryer. The resulting hair strands were evaluated for (4) shine, (5) manageability, (6) straightening of curls, and (7) duration of straightening.
[0092] [Hot perm treatment] The hair deformation agent and hair deformation base were prepared at the time of use with a hair deformation agent:hair deformation base ratio of 1:10 to obtain a hair deformation treatment agent. 30g of the obtained hair modification treatment agent was measured out and applied evenly with a brush to a hair bundle 2 that had been pre-moistened with water. After leaving it at 25°C for 30 minutes, it was rinsed with water. Next, the hair strands were wrapped around the rods of a hot perm machine (ORDIS EX: Daihiro Seisakusho Co., Ltd.), the temperature was set to 80°C, and the hair strands were heated for 10 minutes.
[0093] Next, 30g of hair treatment containing an oxidizing agent (Arimino Qualine After Lotion: manufactured by Arimino Co., Ltd.) was applied evenly, left at 25°C for 10 minutes, then rinsed with water and dried with a hairdryer. The resulting hair strands were evaluated for (8) curl-forming ability and (9) curl retention.
[0094] [Cold perm treatment] The hair deformation agent and hair deformation base were prepared at the time of use with a hair deformation agent:hair deformation base ratio of 1:10 to obtain a hair deformation treatment agent. Two strands of hair were subjected to a cold perm treatment, and the wave efficiency was measured according to the Kilby method. Specifically, the following process was followed. Following the standard procedure, hair bundle 2 was wrapped around a Kilby rod, immersed in 30g of the above-mentioned hair deformation treatment agent, left at 25°C for 30 minutes, and then rinsed with water.
[0095] Subsequently, the hair strands were immersed in 30g of a hair treatment containing an oxidizing agent (Arimino Qualine After Lotion: manufactured by Arimino Co., Ltd.), left at 25°C for 10 minutes, rinsed with water, and dried with a hairdryer. The wave efficiency of the resulting hair strands was calculated using the Kilby method, and (10) the curl-forming ability was evaluated. Three hair strands were measured for each sample, and the average value was used for evaluation.
[0096] (Calculation of wave efficiency using the Kilby method) The finished hair strands were removed from the Kilby method rods, placed on graph paper, and the top of the hair strands was secured with tape. The following measurements a-c were taken for the secured hair strands. The measured values of a-c were applied to the Kilby method formula (see formula 1 below) to evaluate the wave efficiency (%).
[0097] a: Distance (mm) from the 1st to the 5th rod of the instrument. b: The distance (mm) between the first peak (b1) and the fifth peak (b2) in a sequence of five peaks formed by the wave. c: The distance (mm) between b1 and b2 when the wave of b is straightened out.
[0098]
number
[0099] Sensory evaluation For evaluation items (3) to (5), ten professional panelists (hairdressers) each conducted a sensory evaluation. The evaluation was based on the average score of the ten individuals according to the evaluation criteria described below for each item, and the evaluation was made as follows based on the average score. ◎◎: The average score from the evaluations of the 10 professional panelists (hairdressers) is 4.5 points or higher. ◎: The average score from the evaluations of the 10 professional panelists (hairdressers) is between 3.5 and 4.5 points. ○: The average score from the evaluations of the 10 professional panelists (hairdressers) is between 2.5 and 3.5 points. △: The average score from the 10 professional panelists (hairdressers) is between 1.5 and 2.5 points. ×: The average score from the 10 professional panelists (hairdressers) is less than 1.5 points.
[0100] For evaluation items (6) to (9), ten professional panelists (hairdressers) each conducted a sensory evaluation. The evaluation was based on the average score of the ten panelists according to the evaluation criteria described below for each item, and the evaluation was made as follows based on the average score. ◎: The average score from the 10 expert panelists (hairdressers) is 3.5 points or higher. ○: The average score from the evaluations of the 10 professional panelists (hairdressers) is between 2.5 and 3.5 points. △: The average score from the 10 professional panelists (hairdressers) is between 1.5 and 2.5 points. ×: The average score from the 10 professional panelists (hairdressers) is less than 1.5 points.
[0101] Evaluation items and criteria (1) Emulsification stability of the hair deformation base 0.5 g of the hair deformation base sample was placed on a slide, spread with a brush to a surface measuring 2 cm vertically and 5 cm horizontally, and the emulsification state was visually evaluated. ◎: Emulsification is very good, and no aggregates, precipitates, or separation of oils and fats are observed. ○: Emulsification is good, and although slight aggregates are observed, they disappear with stirring. △: Emulsification is poor, and aggregates that do not disappear with stirring are formed. ×: Emulsification is extremely poor, and oil separation has occurred.
[0102] (2) Evaluation of pH fluctuations of hair modification treatment agents In Examples 59-81 and Comparative Examples 5-14, the pH of the hair deformation base in the sample was measured in advance. A hair modification agent with the same formulation as in Example 24 and the sample hair modification base were prepared immediately before use, and 30 g of the resulting hair modification treatment agent was applied to hair. The pH value on the hair 30 minutes after application was compared with the pH value of the sample hair modification base, which had been measured in advance, and the difference was evaluated as an absolute value. pH was measured at 25°C using a pH meter (manufactured by Horiba, Ltd., product name: F-1). ◎: The pH difference is less than 0.1. ○: The pH difference is between 0.1 and less than 0.4. △: The pH difference is between 0.4 and less than 1.0. ×: The pH difference is 1.0 or greater.
[0103] (3) Ease of mixing when prepared at the time of use A total of 30g of hair modification agent and hair modification base was measured out in a commercially available cold perm cup, with a mass ratio of hair modification agent:hair modification base = 1:10. The mixture was mixed using a commercially available cold perm stirrer, and the ease of mixing during preparation was visually evaluated. 5 points: It mixes very easily. 4 points: Very easy to mix. 3 points: Easy to mix. 2 points: Mixes relatively easily. 1 point: Difficult to mix.
[0104] (4) Shine Hair strand 1 was straightened, and the shine of the finished hair strand was visually evaluated. 5 points: It's also very glossy. 4 points: Very glossy. 3 points: It's glossy. Points 2: Slightly glossy. 1 point: It lacks shine.
[0105] (5) Smoothness Hair strand 1 was straightened, and the smoothness of the finished hair strand when fingers were run through it was evaluated by touch. 5 points: It is also extremely smooth. 4 points: It is very smooth. 3 points: It is smooth. 2 points: Not smooth. 1 point: It's a bit odd.
[0106] (6) The straightening of the curl in the finished hair. Hair strand 1 was straightened, and the degree of curl removal in the finished hair strand was visually evaluated. 4 points: The curls are straightened very effectively. 3 points: The curls are straightened out nicely. Points 2: The curls haven't straightened out much. 1 point: The curl hasn't been straightened out.
[0107] (7) The effect of straightening the hair after the styling process is long-lasting. Hair strand 1 was straightened, and the finished hair strand was washed with 1g of shampoo (Sherpa Design Supplement Shampoo D-1: manufactured by Arimino Co., Ltd.) for 1 minute, followed by rinsing with water. This washing and rinsing procedure was repeated 14 times, and the strands were air-dried. The straightening of the resulting hair strands was compared to the straightening of the curl in a hair strand that had not been washed at all after the treatment. 4 points: The straightening effect is very strong and lasts a long time. 3 points: The straightening effect on curls lasts well. Points 2: The straightening effect on the curls only lasted a short time. 1 point: The straightening effect on the hair is not lasting.
[0108] (8) Curl-forming ability Hair bundle 2 was treated with a hot perm, and the curl-forming ability of the finished hair bundle was visually evaluated. 4 points: The curls are very well formed. 3 points: The curls are well-defined. Points 2: Only a slight curl is formed. 1 point: No curls were formed.
[0109] (9) Curl retention Hair bundle 2 was treated with a hot perm. The finished hair bundle was washed with 1g of shampoo (Sherpa Design Supplement Shampoo D-1: manufactured by Arimino Co., Ltd.) for 1 minute, and then rinsed with water. This washing and rinsing procedure was repeated 14 times, and the hair bundles were air-dried. The curl retention of the resulting hair bundles was evaluated by comparing it to the curl of a hair bundle that had not been washed at all after the treatment. 4 points: The curls hold up very well. 3 points: The curls hold up well. 2 points: The curl didn't last very long. 1 point: The curl did not last.
[0110] (10) Wave efficiency Hair bundle 2 was subjected to a cold perm treatment, and the wave efficiency (%) was measured and evaluated according to the Kilby method described above. ◎: Wave efficiency of 35% or higher ○: Wave efficiency is less than 30-35% △: Wave efficiency is less than 25-30% ×: Wave efficiency is less than 25%
[0111] [Table 2]
[0112] [Table 3]
[0113] [Table 4]
[0114] [Table 5]
[0115] [Table 6]
[0116] [Table 7]
[0117] [Table 8]
[0118] [Table 9]
[0119] The hair modification agents, hair modification bases, and hair modification treatment agents prepared in Examples 1 to 81 yielded favorable results in evaluations (1) to (10). The hair modification treatment agent manufactured in Comparative Example 1 had less butyrolactone thiol in the hair modification agent than the specified value, resulting in poor shine, manageability, straightening of curls in the finished hair, duration of straightening of curls in the finished hair, curl formation ability, curl duration, and wave efficiency.
[0120] The hair modification treatment agent manufactured in Comparative Example 2 contained more butyrolactone thiol than the specified amount, making it difficult to mix and resulting in poor manageability. The hair modification treatment agent produced in Comparative Example 3 had a higher-than-specified amount of glyceryl monothioglycolate in the hair modification agent, making it difficult to mix and resulting in poor shine and manageability.
[0121] The hair modification treatment agent manufactured in Comparative Example 4 had poor emulsification stability of the hair modification base and was difficult to mix because the amount of sodium citrate (A) contained in the hair modification base was higher than the specified value.
[0122] The hair modification treatment agent manufactured in Comparative Example 5 failed to suppress pH fluctuations because the amount of sodium citrate (A) contained in the hair modification base was less than the specified value. It is thought that the pH could not be maintained at 6.0 on the hair due to the influence of proteins etc. that leaked out from the hair, and the pH decreased towards the isoelectric point of hair, which is around pH 5. Due to the decrease in pH, the expected reducing power was not exerted at pH 6.0.
[0123] The hair modification treatment agent manufactured in Comparative Example 6 failed to suppress pH fluctuations because the amount of citric acid (B) contained in the hair modification base was less than the specified value. It is thought that the pH could not be maintained at 6.0 on the hair due to the influence of proteins etc. that leaked out from the hair, and the pH decreased towards the isoelectric point of hair, which is around pH 5. Due to the decrease in pH, the expected reducing power was not exerted at pH 6.0.
[0124] The hair modification treatment agent manufactured in Comparative Example 7 had poor manageability because the amount of citric acid (B) contained in the hair modification base was higher than the specified value. The hair modification treatment agent produced in Comparative Example 8 had poor emulsification stability of the hair modification base and was difficult to mix because the amount of nonionic surfactant (C) contained in the hair modification base was less than the specified value. In addition, it resulted in poor manageability.
[0125] The hair modification treatment agent manufactured in Comparative Example 9 had poor manageability because the amount of nonionic surfactant (C) contained in the hair modification base was higher than the specified value. The hair modification treatment agent manufactured in Comparative Example 10 had poor emulsification stability of the hair modification base and was difficult to mix because the amount of higher alcohol (J) contained in the hair modification base was less than the specified value. In addition, it was difficult to comb through the hair.
[0126] The hair modification treatment agent manufactured in Comparative Example 11 had a higher-grade alcohol (J) content in the hair modification base than specified, making it difficult to mix and resulting in poor manageability. The hair modification treatment agents produced in Comparative Examples 12 and 13 did not contain sodium citrate (A) and citric acid (B) in the hair modification base, but instead contained phosphoric acid and sodium hydroxide.
[0127] Comparative Example 12 failed to suppress pH fluctuations. It was thought that the pH could not be maintained at 6.0 on the hair due to the influence of proteins and other substances leaked from the hair, and the pH decreased towards the isoelectric point of hair, which is around pH 5. Due to the decrease in pH, the expected reducing power was not exerted at pH 6.0. In addition, because phosphoric acid was included, the hair did not feel smooth to the touch.
[0128] Comparative Example 13 contained a high amount of phosphoric acid, resulting in poor finger glide and a snagging sensation.
Claims
1. A hair modification base used by mixing it with a hair modification agent containing 22 to 70% by mass of butyrolactone thiol or glyceryl monothioglycol as a reducing agent (D1) in 100% by mass of the hair modification agent, The hair modification base contains 1.5 to 10% by mass of sodium citrate (A), 0.14 to 8.4% by mass of citric acid (B), 0.1 to 5% by mass of nonionic surfactant (C), and 3 to 11% by mass of higher alcohol (J) in 100% by mass. A hair modification base having a pH of 3.6 to 6.4 at 25°C.
2. The hair modification base according to claim 1, comprising at least one reducing agent (D2) selected from the group consisting of cysteamine, L-cysteine, thioglycolic acid, thiolactic acid, and thioglycerin.
3. A hair modification base according to claim 1 or 2, comprising 1 to 10% by mass of a cationic surfactant (K).
4. A hair modification base according to claim 1 or 2, comprising 1 to 3.5% by mass of a liquid oil (L) at 25°C.
5. A hair modification base according to claim 1 or 2, comprising 1 to 4% by mass of a polyhydric alcohol (M).
6. A hair modification treatment agent comprising a hair modification agent and a hair modification base, The hair modification agent contains 100% by mass of glyceryl monothioglycolate in an amount of 42 to 70% by mass and a solvent (G). The hair-modifying base contains 1.5 to 10% by mass of sodium citrate (A), 0.14 to 8.4% by mass of citric acid (B), 0.1 to 5% by mass of nonionic surfactant (C), and 3 to 11% by mass of higher alcohol (J) in 100% by mass. The pH of the hair modification base is 3.6 to 6.4 at 25°C. A treatment agent for hair deformation.
7. A hair modification treatment agent comprising a hair modification agent and a hair modification base, The hair modification agent contains 22 to 66% by mass of butyrolactone thiol and solvent (G) in 100% by mass of the hair modification agent. The hair-modifying base contains 1.5 to 10% by mass of sodium citrate (A), 0.14 to 8.4% by mass of citric acid (B), 0.1 to 5% by mass of nonionic surfactant (C), and 3 to 11% by mass of higher alcohol (J) in 100% by mass. The pH of the hair modification base is 3.6 to 6.4 at 25°C. A treatment agent for hair deformation.
8. The hair modification agent according to claim 6 or 7, wherein the hair modification agent contains 21 to 54.6% by mass of ethylene carbonate (E).
9. The hair modification agent according to claim 6 or 7, wherein the hair modification agent contains 3.5 to 23.4% by mass of propylene carbonate (F).
10. The hair modification treatment agent according to claim 6 or 7, wherein the solvent (G) is at least one selected from the group consisting of PEG / PPG / polybutylene glycol-8 / 5 / 3 glycerin, bisethoxydiglycol succinate, PEG-8, and N-methylpyrrolidone.
11. A hair deformer comprising 100% by mass of hair deformer, 42 to 70% by mass of glyceryl monothioglycolate, and solvent (G), A hair modification base according to claim 1 or 2, Mixing step (I) involves mixing the hair deformer and the hair deformer base in a mass ratio of 1:10 to prepare a mixed solution, and A hair deformation treatment method comprising, after the mixing step (I), an application step (II) of applying the resulting mixture to the hair.
12. A hair deformer comprising 100% by mass of the hair deformer, 22 to 66% by mass of butyrolactone thiol, and solvent (G), A hair modification base according to claim 1 or 2, Mixing step (I) involves mixing the hair deformer and the hair deformer base in a mass ratio of 1:10 to prepare a mixed solution, and A hair deformation treatment method comprising, after the mixing step (I), an application step (II) of applying the resulting mixture to the hair.
13. After the coating step (II), a resting step (III) is performed, in which the area is left at 20 to 25°C for 20 to 30 minutes. After the aforementioned waiting step (III), a rinsing step (IV) is performed to wash the waiting hair with water, and, The hair deformation treatment method according to claim 11, further comprising a step (V) of heating the washed hair after the washing step (IV).
14. After the coating step (II), a resting step (III) is performed, in which the area is left at 20 to 25°C for 20 to 30 minutes. After the aforementioned waiting step (III), a rinsing step (IV) is performed to wash the waiting hair with water, and, The hair deformation treatment method according to claim 12, further comprising a step (V) of heating the washed hair after the washing step (IV).
Citation Information
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