Water-resistant and facial-cleansing water-in-oil makeup cosmetic composition
The water-in-oil makeup composition with isostearic acid and specific emulsifiers addresses the difficulty of washing off high-pigment products by enhancing single wash cleanability while maintaining water resistance and reducing skin damage.
Patent Information
- Authority / Receiving Office
- JP · JP
- Patent Type
- Patents
- Current Assignee / Owner
- エルジー·エイチアンドエイチ·カンパニー·リミテッド
- Filing Date
- 2022-01-19
- Publication Date
- 2026-05-26
AI Technical Summary
Existing water-in-oil makeup products with high pigment content are difficult to wash off and cause skin damage due to double face washing, and existing solutions for improving washability are limited in effectiveness.
A water-in-oil makeup cosmetic composition comprising isostearic acid, pigment-grade powder, and an emulsifier with an HLB greater than 0 and 8 or less, which is easily removed in alkaline pH solutions but resistant to neutral pH conditions, ensuring high water resistance and single wash cleanability.
The composition maintains high makeup longevity and is easily removed with a single facial wash, addressing the challenges of water resistance and washability without causing skin damage.
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Abstract
Description
Technical Field
[0001] This application claims priority based on Korean Patent Application No. 10-2021-0012626 filed on January 28, 2021, and all of the contents disclosed in the specification and drawings of the said application are incorporated into this application.
[0002] The present invention relates to a water-in-oil makeup cosmetic composition. More specifically, it relates to a water-in-oil makeup cosmetic composition that is excellent in water resistance and at the same time excellent in washability.
Background Art
[0003] Makeup products are used to hide skin flaws and create a uniformly even skin tone. Such makeup products generally use a high content of pigments to bring out the skin color, are manufactured in a W / O (water in oil) emulsion type with excellent adhesion to the skin and good makeup durability.
[0004] However, W / O type cosmetics containing a high content of pigments have the inconvenience of being difficult to wash off. In particular, pigment powders with a solid property are not only felt as foreign substances to the skin, but also block pores and cause troubles, and are very noticeable, so improving the washability (cleanability) of makeup products is very important. Therefore, when using makeup products, generally, there is the complexity that it must be removed through a secondary face wash after the primary face wash.
[0005] Recently, in various results of checking the skin condition after double face washing, it has been confirmed that double face washing not only causes damage to the barrier due to strong friction with the skin twice, but also causes dryness by impairing the skin's moisturizing effect.
[0006] For this reason, in Korean Patent Publication No. 1342231, an attempt was made to develop a powder in which the surface of the powder is coated with a pH-sensitive polymer, so that the surface properties change according to the external pH conditions, and the powder is water-resistant in water with a neutral pH but easily removed by soapy water with a high pH. However, this technology is limited to improving the cleanability of the powder itself and has the drawback that removing the entire cosmetic film is by no means easy.
[0007] As described above, there is a strong demand for the development of makeup products that are both water-resistant during use and easy to remove with just a single facial wash. [Overview of the project] [Problems that the invention aims to solve]
[0008] Therefore, the problem that the present invention aims to solve is to provide an oil-in-water makeup cosmetic composition that has excellent water resistance and, at the same time, excellent facial cleansing properties (cleansing properties). More specifically, the objective is to provide an oil-in-water makeup cosmetic composition that is easily removed even with just one facial wash. [Means for solving the problem]
[0009] To achieve the above technical objectives, one aspect of the present invention provides a water-in-oil makeup cosmetic composition comprising isostearic acid, pigment-grade powder, an emulsifier having an HLB (Hydrophile Lipophile Balance, a numerical value representing the balance between hydrophobicity and hydrophilicity of the emulsifier) greater than 0 and 8 or less, and the remainder being water, wherein the composition is more effectively washed away in an alkaline pH aqueous solution than in a neutral pH aqueous solution.
[0010] The inventors of this application have found that water-in-oil (W / O) makeup products having the above-described composition are not removed by water and sweat, have high makeup longevity, and have improved cleansing properties, making them easy to remove even with just one cleanser. Based on this finding, they have completed the present invention. In particular, the inventors have found that when cosmetics containing a high content of pigment-grade powder have the above-described composition, the effect of improving cleansing power is far superior to that of other compositions, and have completed the present invention.
[0011] As shown in Figure 1, the cosmetic composition of the present invention exhibits excellent water resistance in ordinary tap water or neutral aqueous solutions with a pH of approximately 7±0.5, but it has the characteristic of being easily washed away by alkaline solutions, such as those with a pH of 9 to 11.
[0012] In a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the composition of the present invention may contain isostearic acid in an amount of 1 to 40% by weight based on the total weight of the composition, pigment-grade powder in an amount of 1 to 40% by weight based on the total weight of the composition, and an emulsifier having an HLB greater than 0 and 8 or less in an amount of 0.1 to 10% by weight based on the total weight of the composition.
[0013] The composition of the present invention contains isostearic acid as one of its components, and surprisingly, the inventors have discovered a new fact: in formulations with a high content of pigment-grade powder, isostearic acid is far superior to other solid fatty acids in achieving the desired effect.
[0014] The isostearic acid may be present in an amount of 1 to 40% by weight based on the total weight of the composition, preferably 3 to 40% by weight, more preferably 5 to 40% by weight, and even more preferably 7 to 40% by weight based on the total weight of the composition. If the content of the isostearic acid is too low, the desired effect will be diminished.
[0015] The composition of the present invention, in view of the purpose of the composition, includes, as one component, a pigment-grade powder for correcting skin tone.
[0016] Preferably, such pigment-grade powders may be titanium dioxide, talc, tin oxide, or mixtures thereof, whose particle size is of the pigment grade described later. More preferably, the pigment-grade powder of the present invention is titanium dioxide.
[0017] In the present invention, the term "pigment-grade powder" refers to a powder whose particle size is 200 nm to 1000 nm, preferably 250 nm to 900 nm, and more preferably 300 nm to 800 nm.
[0018] Powders with particle sizes of less than 100 nm or less than 200 nm absorb light in the ultraviolet region and are mainly used as UV-blocking components, while their property of scattering light in the visible light region is weak and they are relatively transparent, so it may be difficult to expect any change in skin tone when applied to the skin.
[0019] In other words, in the present invention, the pigment-grade powder is a powder that scatters light in the visible light region and causes a change in skin tone when applied to the skin, and can be used as a colorant or pigment.
[0020] More preferably, the pigment-grade powder contained in the composition of the present invention is a pigment-grade powder coated with lipoamino acids, and more particularly, a TiO2 powder coated with lipoamino acids. Such a lipoamino acid-coated pigment-grade powder maintains its shape at a neutral pH, contributing to water resistance, while at a high pH, the coating is affected, contributing to cleanability.
[0021] Typically, pigment-grade powders may be surface-treated to improve oil dispersibility. Examples of substances used for such surface treatments include, but are not limited to, dimethicone, triethoxycaprylylsilane, fatty acids, and lipoamino acids.
[0022] The inventors evaluated the washability of various pigment-grade powders and found that pigment-grade powders coated with lipoamino acids exhibit oil dispersion properties in neutral water (pH 7), but exhibit water dispersion properties in alkaline water such as soapy water (e.g., pH 10), with the coating substance dissociating. This is because, unlike dimethicone, triethoxycaprylylsilane, fatty acids, etc., which are used for powder coating, lipoamino acids change their surface properties under alkaline conditions. Such properties allow the composition to be resistant to water and sweat, but to have improved washability in soapy water. Furthermore, since the washing effect is difficult to perceive in powders with a particle size of less than 100 nm that are transparent and invisible, the pigment-grade powder is even more suitable for powders that exhibit a whitening phenomenon when applied to the skin, making it even more ideal for makeup products.
[0023] In the present invention, the lipoamino acid according to the present invention may be from the group consisting of palmitoyl proline, magnesium palmitoyl glutamate, sodium palmitoyl sarcosinate, dipalmitoyl hydroxyproline, palmitoyl isoleucine, capryloyl glycine, dioctyldodecyl lauroyl glutamate, cholesteryl / behenyl / octyldodecyl lauroyl glutamate, cholesteryl / octyldodecyl lauroyl glutamate, phytosteryl / behenyl / octyldodecyl lauroyl glutamate, phytosteryl / octyldodecyl lauroyl glutamate, and phytosteryl / decyltetradecylmyristoyl methyl-β-alaninate, or a mixture thereof, preferably palmitoyl proline, magnesium palmitoyl glutamate, sodium palmitoyl sarcosinate, or a mixture thereof.
[0024] In the present invention, the pigment-grade powder coated with the lipoamino acid may be contained at 1 to 40% by weight based on the total weight of the composition. Preferably, the pigment-grade powder coated with the lipoamino acid may be contained at 3 to 40% by weight, more preferably at 5 to 30% by weight, and still more preferably at 7 to 20% by weight. If the content of the pigment-grade powder coated with the lipoamino acid is too low, the effect is small. If the content is too high, the content of the powder in the formulation is too high and it is difficult to maintain stability, the feel of use becomes too thick and rich, and there is also a risk of turbidity.
[0025] The composition of the present invention may further contain other powders within the range that does not impair the object of the present invention, in addition to the pigment-grade powder coated with the lipoamino acid. For example, powders such as talc, tin oxide, mica, silica, and polymethyl methacrylate (PMMA) may be further contained.
[0026] Further, the composition of the present invention contains an emulsifier for making it a water-in-oil (W / O) type, and particularly contains an emulsifier having an HLB of more than 0 and 8 or less. Preferably, the emulsifier contained in the composition of the present invention may have an HLB of 8 or less, preferably 7 or less, and more preferably 6 or less.
[0027] In one aspect of the present invention, the emulsifier may be contained at 0.1 to 10% by weight based on the total weight of the composition.
[0028] In the present invention, as the emulsifier, sorbitan fatty acid esters such as sorbitan monolaurate, sorbitan monoisostearate, sorbitan tristearate, and sorbitan oleate, glycerin fatty acid esters such as glycerol monostearate and glycerol monooleate, polyoxyethylene (POE) (5) hydrogenated castor oil, POE (7.5) hydrogenated castor oil, POE (10) hydrogenated castor oil, and other polyoxyethylene hydrogenated castor oils, polyethylene glycol (PEG)-9 polydimethylsiloxyethyl dimethicone, lauryl PEG-9 polydimethylsiloxyethyl dimethicone, polyglyceryl-3 polydimethylsiloxyethyl dimethicone, lauryl polyglyceryl-3 polydimethylsiloxyethyl dimethicone, PEG-11 methyl ether dimethicone, PEG-10 dimethicone, cetyl PEG / polypropylene glycol (PPG)-10 / 1 dimethicone, PEG / PPG-20 / 22 butyl ether dimethicone, dimethicone / PEG-10 / 15 copolymer, and other polyether-modified silicone surfactants, dimethicone polyol, polyglyceryl-2 sesquioleate, polyglyceryl-10 pentaoleate, polyglyceryl-5 hexastearate, polyglyceryl-4 diisostearate / polyhydroxystearate / sebacate copolymer, diisostearoyl polyglyceryl-3 dimer dilinoleate, and other polyglyceryl fatty acid esters or mixtures thereof can be used.
[0029] In one aspect of the present invention, the composition of the present invention may further contain a monovalent ion salt as a stabilizer. The stabilizer according to the present invention plays a role in improving the stability of the W / O type emulsified composition.
[0030] As such a monovalent ion salt, sodium chloride can be used.
[0031] While divalent ion salts such as magnesium sulfate and calcium chloride can typically be used as stabilizers for W / O type emulsifiers, these divalent ion salts may form insoluble precipitates with the components of the composition of the present invention. Therefore, to avoid impairing the effects of the present invention, it is more preferable to use monovalent ion salts. However, the present invention is not limited in any way to such theoretical mechanisms.
[0032] Therefore, in one embodiment of the present invention, the composition according to the present invention is substantially free of divalent ions such as ZnO. For example, the composition according to the present invention contains 0 to 5% by weight of divalent ions such as ZnO based on the total weight of the composition, or preferably 0 to 3% by weight, more preferably 0 to 1% by weight, and even more preferably none at all.
[0033] Furthermore, the water-in-oil makeup cosmetic composition according to the present invention may further contain ingredients commonly used in cosmetic compositions in the industry, to the extent that they do not impair the purpose of the present invention. For example, it may further contain emollients, (organic) UV blockers, humectants, thickeners, preservatives, fragrances, and the like.
[0034] In the present invention, the emollient is an ester-based oil such as caprylic / capric triglyceride, dicaprylyl carbonate, neopentyl glycol dicaprate, 2-octyldodecyl myristate, isopropyl myristate, isocetyl ethylhexanoate, pentaerythrityl tetraethylhexanoate, butylene glycol dicaprylate dicaprate, hexyl laurate, distearyl malate, cetyl 2-ethylhexanoate, octyldodecanol, glyceryl triethylhexanoate, and cyclopentasilyl Silicone oils such as xane, dimethylpolysiloxane, methylphenylpolysiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, methyl trimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, cyclomethicone, and dimethicone, as well as hydrocarbon oils such as isohexadecane, squalane, mineral oil, hydrogenated polydecene, and hydrogenated polyisobutene, and vegetable oils such as olive oil, avocado oil, jojoba oil, macadamia oil, shea butter, mango butter, murumuru butter, and cocoa butter may be used, but are not limited to these.
[0035] In the present invention, the ultraviolet blocking agent can be ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, ethylhexyl salicylate, bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, diethylamino hydroxybenzoylhexyl benzoate, octocrylene, butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, oxybenzone, octyl triazone, menthyl anthranilate, phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone sulfonic acid, 3,4-methylbenzylidene camphor, isoamyl p-methoxycinnamate, homosalate, drometrizole trisiloxane, benzophenone-3, ethylhexyl triazone, DEA-methoxycinnamate, disodium phenyl dibenzimidazole tetrasulfonate, benzophenone-8, TEA-salicylate, butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, ethylhexyldimethyl PABA, etc., but is not limited to these.
[0036] In the present invention, the humidifying agent can be 1,3-butylene glycol, 2,3-butylene glycol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, pentylene glycol, betaine, trehalose, glycerin, sorbitol, propanediol, 1,2-hexanediol, octanediol, etc., but is not limited to these.
[0037] In the present invention, the thickening agent can be bentone, dextrin palmitate, polyamide-8, etc., but is not limited to these.
[0038] In the present invention, the preservative can be phenoxyethanol, parabens, parahydroxybenzoic acid esters, sodium benzoate, sorbic acid, potassium sorbate, salicylic acid, benzalkonium chloride, trichlorocarbanilide, etc., but is not limited to these.
[0039] Preferably, all components described in the present invention do not exceed the maximum usage values stipulated in relevant laws and regulations in countries such as South Korea, China, the United States, Europe, and Japan (for example, regulations concerning safety standards for cosmetics (South Korea), technical standards for cosmetic safety (China), and hygiene standards (China)). In other words, preferably, the cosmetic composition according to the present invention contains the components according to the present invention at the limits of the content permitted by the relevant laws and regulations of each country. [Effects of the Invention]
[0040] The present invention provides an oil-in-water makeup cosmetic composition that is simultaneously excellent in water resistance and cleansing properties. More specifically, the present invention provides an oil-in-water makeup cosmetic composition that is not removed by water and sweat, has high makeup staying power, but is easily removed during face washing, even with just a single wash. [Brief explanation of the drawing]
[0041] [Figure 1] Figure 1 shows the results of comparing the effects of one embodiment of the present invention with those of existing comparative compositions. [Figure 2] Figure 2 shows the experimental results evaluating the water resistance of compositions #1 to #5. [Figure 3] Figure 3 shows the experimental results evaluating the ease of washing the face of compositions #1 to #5. [Figure 4] Figure 4 shows the experimental results evaluating the water resistance of compositions #11 to #15. [Figure 5] Figure 5 shows the experimental results evaluating the ease of washing the face of compositions #11-#15 and #1. [Figure 6] Figure 6 shows the experimental results evaluating the water resistance of compositions #6 to #10. [Figure 7] Figure 7 shows the experimental results evaluating the ease of washing the face of compositions #6 to #10. [Figure 8] Figure 8 shows the experimental results evaluating the water resistance of compositions #16 to #20. [Figure 9] Figure 9 shows the experimental results evaluating the ease of washing the face of compositions #16 to #20. [Modes for carrying out the invention]
[0042] The present invention will be described in more detail below, including examples, to deepen understanding of the present invention. However, the examples of the present invention can be modified into various other types, and the scope of the present invention should not be construed as being limited to the following examples. The examples of the present invention are provided to give a more complete explanation of the present invention to a person with average skill in the art to which the present invention belongs.
[0043] Experiment 1. Experiment based on fatty acid content A makeup product for correcting skin tone, with the formulation and content shown in Table 1 below, was manufactured using the following method.
[0044] Component A was weighed to the correct content and heated to 70-80°C to completely dissolve it. Component B was completely dispersed and heated to 70-80°C to prepare it. Component A was gradually added to component B while emulsifying for 5 minutes, and then cooled to 30°C.
[0045] In Table 1 below, pigment X is a mixture of titanium dioxide powder (LP-TR 10, manufactured by Miyoshi Chemical Co., Ltd.) coated with a mixture of three substances: aluminum hydroxy, lipoamino acid, and palmitic acid; red iron oxide (OTS RED R-516, manufactured by Daito Chemical Industries Co., Ltd.); yellow iron oxide (OTS-2 YELLOW LLXILO, manufactured by Daito Chemical Industries Co., Ltd.); and black iron oxide (OTS-2 BLACK BL-100, manufactured by Daito Chemical Industries Co., Ltd.). The mixing weight ratio is 93.482:1.080:5.400:0.038 (coated TiO2: red iron oxide: yellow iron oxide: black iron oxide). The aforementioned lipoamino acid is a mixture of palmitoyl proline, magnesium palmitoyl glutamate, and sodium palmitoyl sarcosinate. Analysis results provided by the company show that the most frequent particle size of the coated titanium dioxide powder is 357 nm, and the median value (D 50 The wavelength is 434 nm. The analytical method used was to disperse the material in ethanol using a laser particle size analyzer and measure the size.
[0046] [Table 1]
[0047] The water resistance was evaluated using the following method.
[0048] A 25 mg sample of the cosmetic composition was applied to a black rubber sheet. Tap water was then run over the applied area for 15 seconds or more, and the degree to which the composition was washed away was observed. The results are shown in the figure. 2 This will be shown.
[0049] The ease of washing the face was evaluated using the following method.
[0050] A 25 mg cosmetic composition was applied to a black rubber sheet. Four to five drops of a 20% diluted cleansing foam solution were then added and rubbed thoroughly. After rinsing with running water, the degree of rinsing was compared. The cleansing foam used was Lacvert BRI:D Moisturizing Cleansing Foam (product name) (manufactured by LG Household & Health Care Co., Ltd., South Korea), a commercially available product. The pH of the 20% diluted solution was 9.5. The results are shown in the figure. 3 This will be shown.
[0051] figure 2 As shown, all compositions of the present invention exhibit excellent water resistance, making them difficult to wash away with tap water. In other words, even when fatty acids are included, the water resistance of the W / O formulation did not decrease.
[0052] In contrast, Figure 3 As shown, the evaluation results for ease of washing confirmed that makeup cosmetics containing 1% or more by weight of fatty acids were washed off more effectively. This is presumed to be because fatty acids trigger a saponification reaction under high pH conditions, such as soapy water, which helps in washing the face. However, the present invention is not limited in any way to such a theoretical mechanism.
[0053] Experiment 2. Experiments based on the type of fatty acid Makeup cosmetics were manufactured using the same method as in Experiment 1, and their water resistance and ease of washing were evaluated.
[0054] [Table 2]
[0055] The water resistance was evaluated using the same method as in Experiment 1, and the results were shown in the figure. 4 The ease of washing the face was evaluated using the same method as in Experiment 1, and the results are shown in the figure. 5 This will be shown.
[0056] The experimental results showed that, from a water resistance perspective, all fatty acids, regardless of type, exhibited excellent water resistance. However, in terms of ease of washing, it was confirmed that isostearic acid (#14) was far superior to other solid fatty acids.
[0057] Experiment 3. Experiments using different types of pigment-grade powders. Makeup cosmetics were manufactured using the same method as in Experiment 1, and their water resistance and ease of washing were evaluated.
[0058] In Table 3, pigment X was the same as pigment X used in Table 1.
[0059] In Table 3, pigment Y is a mixture of four components: titanium dioxide powder coated with aluminum hydroxyl and dimethicone (Si TiO2CR50, manufactured by Fuji Chemical Industries, Inc. of Korea), red iron oxide, black iron oxide, and yellow iron oxide. The mixing ratio is 93.482:1.080:5.4:0.038. The particle size of the powder was 250 nm. For reference, Si TiO2CR50 is a powder in which TiO2CR50 is coated with silicon, and CR50 is the most common pigment-grade powder with a particle size of 250 nm.
[0060] [Table 3]
[0061] Water resistance was evaluated using the same method as in Experiment 1, and the results are shown in Figure 6. Ease of washing the face was evaluated using the same method as in Experiment 1, and the results are shown in Figure 7.
[0062] The experimental results showed high water resistance and cleansing properties regardless of the type of pigment, but it was confirmed that the cleansing properties were further improved when lipoamino acid coated powder was included (for example, when it was 5% by weight or more; in the case of sample #8, pigment X was used at 6% by weight, and the content of lipoamino acid coated powder in pigment X was approximately 93.4%).
[0063] Experiment 4.2 Effects of valent ions Makeup cosmetics were manufactured using the same method as in Experiment 1, and their water resistance, ease of washing, and stability were evaluated.
[0064] [Table 4]
[0065] The water resistance was evaluated using the same method as in Experiment 1, and the results were shown in the figure. 8 The results are shown below. Furthermore, the ease of washing the face was evaluated using the same method as in Experiment 1, and the results are shown in the figure. 9 This will be shown.
[0066] Furthermore, stability was also evaluated, and the results are summarized in Table 5 below.
[0067] [Table 5]
[0068] (In Table 5 above, ○ indicates excellent stability, △ indicates moderate stability, and X indicates poor stability.)
[0069] The experimental results confirmed that #16 to #20 all exhibited excellent water resistance and ease of washing. In particular, from the perspective of ease of washing, #20, which contains no divalent ions, was the most outstanding compared to #16 to #19, which contain divalent ions.
[0070] More specifically, the results of the experiment with #16-#20 showed that #16-#19, which contain divalent ions, were slightly inferior in cleansing power. The samples containing divalent ions could only be removed after rubbing with a 20% cleansing foam solution for a long period of time, and even then, a small amount remained. However, #20 was easily and completely removed and also exhibited superior stability.
Claims
1. A water-in-oil cosmetic composition, It contains isostearic acid, a powder with a particle size of 200 nm to 1000 nm, and an emulsifier with an HLB greater than 0 and less than or equal to 8. The aforementioned powder is a powder coated with lipoamino acids. The isostearic acid is present in an oil-water-in-oil cosmetic composition in an amount of 1 to 40% by weight based on the total weight of the composition.
2. The water-in-oil cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein the powder is present in an amount of 1 to 40% by weight based on the total weight of the composition.
3. The water-in-oil cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein the lipoamino acid is palmitoyl proline, magnesium palmitoyl glutamate, sodium palmitoyl sarcosinate, or a mixture thereof.
4. The aforementioned powder is TiO coated with lipoamino acids. 2 The water-in-oil cosmetic composition according to claim 1.
5. The water-in-oil cosmetic composition according to claim 1, further comprising a monovalent ion salt.
6. The water-in-oil cosmetic composition according to claim 5, wherein the monovalent ion salt is sodium chloride.
7. The water-in-oil cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein the composition contains ZnO in an amount of 5% by weight or less based on the total weight of the composition.