Reverse-phase emulsion containing ethylcellulose, ether, or carbonate hydrocarbon oil and method of using the same

Abstract

The present invention relates to - with ethyl cellulose; -saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C 10 ~C 26 at least one first non-volatile oil that is liquid at 25° C. selected from fatty alcohols; - ethers of formula ROR', carbonates of formula RO(CO)OR', in which the R and R' groups may be identical or different and are saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched hydrocarbon-based groups containing up to 16 carbon atoms, preferably C3-C 16 at least one second non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil that is liquid at 25° C., selected from the group consisting of: at least one first nonionic hydrocarbon surfactant, The present invention also relates to a method for making up and / or caring for human keratinous materials, in particular the skin or the lips, preferably the lips, in which said composition is applied.

Description

[Technical Field]

[0001] The present invention relates to a composition in the form of a reverse-phase (water in oil) emulsion comprising a first non-volatile oil selected from ethylcellulose and fatty alcohols, a second non-volatile hydrocarbon oil of ether or carbonate type, and at least one nonionic hydrocarbon surfactant. The present invention also relates to a method for applying and / or caring for a human keratinous substance, particularly the lips, to which the composition is applied. [Background technology]

[0002] For several years, makeup compositions containing ethylcellulose have been developed that offer a primary alternative to the presence of large amounts of ethanol, which can be used as a solvent for ethylcellulose and may cause long-term skin or lip sensitivity problems. This is because, for example, ethylcellulose is no longer soluble in ethanol but exhibits certain solubility parameters, and is particularly soluble in fatty alcohols, natural oils, and C6-C6 alcohols. 30 One of the desired objectives of (Patent Document 1) was to describe anhydrous compositions dissolved in a solvent selected from triglycerides or glycol esters. These compositions exhibit good adhesion and limited migration.

[0003] The compositions produced in emulsion form were subsequently described in (Patent Document 2), for example, in relation to an oil-in-water emulsion particularly comprising ethylcellulose, at least one liquid fatty alcohol, and at least one non-volatile silicone or fluorinated oil. The compositions thus obtained are easy to apply, provide a cooling effect upon application, and the resulting deposits are non-sticky, do not move significantly, and are glossy and thus persistent.

[0004] However, instead, for some time, the trend in cosmetics has been towards the development of compositions that contain more natural products and thus, in particular, fewer synthetic compounds such as silicones. Simply replacing these oils with hydrocarbon-based compounds, such as ester oils, for example, does not make it possible to achieve the desired objectives, such as its gloss and wear resistance over a long period. Specifically, silicone oils are known to be particularly effective in this regard. Furthermore, from the above-mentioned international application, it is exemplified that the replacement of silicone or fluorinated oils with triglycerides does not give a homogeneous composition. Furthermore, the resulting composition has been found to be difficult to apply, and as a result, a homogeneous makeup of the lips cannot be obtained.

[0005] Therefore, there is still a need for a composition in the form of an emulsion containing ethyl cellulose, which in particular limits the use of synthetic oils such as silicone oils and can be applied as a shiny deposit that retains its gloss even without it for a long time, especially for lip makeup. It is very clear that such a result must be achieved without harming the application properties of the composition or the application properties of the resulting deposit, such as mobility, etc.

Prior Art Documents

Patent Documents

[0006]

Patent Document 1

Patent Document 2

Summary of the Invention

Means for Solving the Problems

[0007] These and other objects are achieved by the present invention, which is - ethyl cellulose; - saturated or unsaturated, straight-chain or branched C 10 ~C 26At least one first non-volatile oil selected from fatty alcohols and which is liquid at 25 °C and atmospheric pressure (1.013×10 5 Pa); and - at least one second hydrocarbon oil selected from ethers of the formula ROR', carbonates of the formula RO(CO)OR' (wherein the R and R' groups may be the same or different and are saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched hydrocarbon-based groups containing up to 16 carbon atoms, preferably C3 - C 16 groups) and mixtures thereof, and which is liquid at 25 °C and atmospheric pressure (1.013×10 5 Pa); and - at least one non-ionic hydrocarbon surfactant, A composition in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion containing.

[0008] The present invention also relates to a method of applying makeup and / or caring for human keratin substances, particularly the skin and lips and more particularly the lips, which consists of applying a composition as described above.

[0009] The composition according to the invention is more particularly in the form of a gel. This has the advantage of being easy to apply as a thick deposit on the lips, yet still being comfortable, not overly sticky or non-sticky, and having an associated cooling sensation. The resulting deposit is shiny and retains its shine for a long time; it provides a moisturizing effect and gives a volumizing effect (a plump appearance) to the lips. It also exhibits satisfactory non-smudging properties.

Mode for Carrying Out the Invention

[0010] Gloss Measurement Protocol To obtain a film of controlled thickness, the sample was spread over the entire contrast card (Erichsen type 24 / 5) with black and white areas using an automatic spreader (Elcometer 4340 Applicator) calibrated to a thickness of 100 μm (Elcometer 3520 / 101; 50, 100, 150, 200 μm, reference K0003520M101).

[0011] Spread the film across both the black and white areas of the contrast card. The black area of ​​the contrast card allows for monitoring the uniformity of the spread; the white area of ​​the contrast card is used to measure the gloss of the film.

[0012] Gloss measurements are performed using a Mini Gloss Meter 60°, BykGardner, which is calibrated to 60° before measurement.

[0013] To prevent damage to the film, two self-adhesive rings (Crowns DTM, 22mm diameter, ref. G022363M) are placed on each end of the gloss meter. Gloss is measured at various times. After application at 20°C and 50% relative humidity, gloss is measured immediately at T0, at T30min, at T1h, at T1h30, and at T24h.

[0014] Protocol for measuring the rheological properties of gels Measurements are performed using a stress-controlled rheometer (ARG2 from TA Instruments). The measurement geometry used is a smoothed (sanded) cone / plate with a diameter of 35 mm and an angle of 2°. A sinusoidal stress is applied to the sample by increasing the amplitude at a frequency of 1 Hz over a stress range of 0.1 to 1000 Pa. The resistance of the sample to the applied strain allows for the acquisition of a consistency G* curve as a function of stress τ and a solid / liquidity curve δ. The main data recovered are plateau G* (concentration) and phase angle δ (solid / liquidity).

[0015] The composition is provided more specifically in the form of a gel, and its G* coefficient (coefficient of viscoelasticity) is 10 to 1000 Pa for a phase angle of 40° to 70°, more specifically 50 to 1000 Pa for a phase angle of 40° to 65°, preferably 40° to 60°, and actually even further 80 to 1000 Pa. The viscoelastic properties (G* and δ) are measured with a stress-controlled rheometer, and the values ​​are taken when the viscoelasticity is plateauing at 25°C.

[0016] Protocol for measuring viscosity Viscosity measurements are generally performed at 25°C using a Rheomat RM 100 viscometer equipped with a No. 4 spindle. The measurement is taken after rotating the spindle in the composition for 10 minutes at a shear rate of 200 revolutions per minute (rpm).

[0017] Generally, the compositions according to the present invention exhibit a viscosity of 5 to 50 Pa.s, preferably 7 to 30 Pa.s.

[0018] Protocol for measuring adhesive strength The composition is deposited onto several stainless steel dishes to a depth of 100 μm and leveled as quickly as possible. The dishes are dried at ambient temperature for 1 hour.

[0019] The device used is a TA.XT2i texture analyzer. A clamp mounted on this device grips a 6mm diameter AU4G cylinder, and its end is bonded to a smooth, grayish-white synthetic skin piece of the same diameter and 2mm thick.

[0020] Never perform multiple measurements at the same location on the deposit.

[0021] The parameters for the compressibility test with holdover time are as follows: approach speed (or pre-speed): 1 mm / s; speed (starting from contact detection): 0.1 mm / s; force (and corresponding pressure): 0.283 N (i.e., 0.01 MPa); waiting time: 3 s; return speed (or post-speed): 0.1 mm / s.

[0022] The adhesive force is characterized by the amount of peeling work measured during unloading (tensile phase), which corresponds to the integral of the curve under the time axis. This work is expressed as a positive value in joules / square meter.

[0023] As shown above, the compositions according to the present invention can be applied to human keratinous substances, particularly to the skin or lips. These compositions include physiologically acceptable media, i.e., media suitable for application to the skin and / or physical development on its surface, which consequently exhibit pleasant color, pleasant scent and pleasant feel, and do not cause any unacceptable discomfort (stinging, stiffness) that would cause consumers to stop using the composition.

[0024] Ethylcellulose As shown above, the composition according to the present invention comprises at least ethylcellulose.

[0025] Ethylcellulose is a cellulose ethyl ether containing a chain composed of β-anhydroglucose units linked together via acetal bonds. Each anhydroglucose unit has three substitutable hydroxyl groups, and all or some of these hydroxyl groups can be reacted according to the following reaction: RONa + C2H5Cl → ROC2H5 + NaCl (where R represents a cellulose radical). When the three hydroxyl groups are completely substituted, the degree of substitution for each anhydroglucose unit becomes 3, or in other words, the content of alkoxy groups, particularly ethoxy groups, becomes 54.88%.

[0026] The ethylcellulose polymer used in the cosmetic composition according to the present invention preferentially has a degree of substitution of ethoxy groups in the range of 2.5 to 2.6 per unit of anhydroglucose, in other words, contains an ethoxy group content in the range of 44% to 50%.

[0027] The average molar mass of ethylcellulose is preferably selected such that the viscosity of a 5% by mass solution in an 80 / 20 (toluene / ethanol) mixture at 25°C is in the range of 4 to 300 mPa.s, preferably 5 to 200 mPa.s, for example, 5 to 150 mPa.s. (Standard ASTM D 914).

[0028] The ethylcellulose used in the composition according to the present invention is, more specifically, in powder form.

[0029] This is sold, for example, by Dow Chemicals under the trade name Ethocel Standard, particularly Ethocel Standard 7 FP Premium and Ethocel Standard 100 FP Premium. Other commercially available products, such as Aqualon Ethylcellulose type K, type N, and type T sold by Ashland Inc., preferably type N, for example N7 or N100, are particularly suitable for carrying out the present invention.

[0030] More specifically, the ethylcellulose content corresponds to at least 6% by mass, preferably at least 7% by mass, and more specifically at least 7.5% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition. According to certain advantageous embodiments, the ethylcellulose content corresponds to 7% to 17% by mass, preferably 8% to 15% by mass, or even more specifically 8% to 12% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition.

[0031] aqueous phase The composition according to the present invention is in the form of an inverse (water in oil) emulsion, and therefore the emulsion includes a continuous oily phase in which an aqueous phase is dispersed in the form of droplets to obtain a macroscopically homogeneous mixture.

[0032] water Therefore, the composition according to the present invention contains at least water.

[0033] More specifically, the water content is 40% by mass or less, preferably 30% by mass or less, and even more preferably 20% by mass or less, based on the total mass of the composition. Preferably, the water content is 5% to 40% by mass, more favorably 5% to 30% by mass, and more specifically 5% to 20% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition.

[0034] Water-soluble solvent The composition according to the present invention may contain at least one water-soluble solvent.

[0035] In this invention, the term "water-soluble solvent" refers to a compound that is liquid at ambient temperature and miscible with water (miscibility in water is defined as 25°C and ambient pressure (1.013 × 10⁻¹⁰). 5 (Pa) exceeding 50% by mass)

[0036] The water-soluble solvents that can be used in the compositions according to the present invention may be even more volatile.

[0037] In particular, among the water-soluble solvents that can be used, examples include monoalcohols having 1 to 5 carbon atoms, more specifically saturated monoalcohols such as ethanol and isopropanol, as well as C3 and C4 ketones, C2-C4 aldehydes, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the water-soluble solvent is selected from monoalcohols having 1 to 5 carbon atoms and mixtures thereof.

[0038] If any of the above compositions are included, the content of the water-soluble solvent is, more specifically, 0.1% to 10% by mass, preferably 1% to 5% by mass, relative to the total mass of the above composition.

[0039] liquid polyol The composition according to the present invention is suitable for use at 20°C and atmospheric pressure (1.013 × 10⁻⁶). 5 It may optionally contain at least one polyol that is liquid at Pa.

[0040] The term "polyol" refers to any organic molecule that contains at least two hydroxyl groups (or free hydroxyl groups).

[0041] More specifically, the liquid polyol is selected from compounds containing at least two hydroxyl functional groups, preferably two to six hydroxyl groups, that are saturated or unsaturated and linear or branched C2-C8, more specifically C3-C6.

[0042] Advantageously, the polyol can be selected from, for example, ethylene glycol, pentaerythritol, trimethylolpropane, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, butylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, isoprene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, glycerol, ethylhexyl glycerol and diglycerol and mixtures thereof.

[0043] Preferably, the polyol is selected from glycerol, propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, dibutylene glycol, diglycerol and mixtures thereof; more advantageously still it is glycerol.

[0044] According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the amount of the aqueous phase corresponds to 5% to 40% by mass, particularly 10% to 30% by mass and preferably 20% to 30% by mass, based on the mass of the composition. The term "aqueous phase" is specified to denote water and, where appropriate, a water-soluble solvent and a liquid polyol.

[0045] The first oil As indicated above, the composition according to the invention comprises, as a first non-volatile oil which is liquid at 25°C, saturated or unsaturated and straight-chain or branched C 10 ~C 26 fatty alcohols, preferably monoalcohols.

[0046] Advantageously, the C 10 ~C 26 alcohols are fatty alcohols which are preferably branched when they contain at least 16 carbon atoms.

[0047] Preferably, the fatty alcohol contains 10 to 24 carbon atoms, more preferably 12 to 22 carbon atoms.

[0048] Specific examples of fatty alcohols that may be preferably used include, in particular, lauryl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, 2-hexyldecyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, and mixtures thereof.

[0049] According to an advantageous embodiment of the present invention, the alcohol is selected from octyldodecanol.

[0050] More specifically, the content of the first oil varies from 20% to 60% by mass, and more specifically from 25% to 40% by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition.

[0051] Second oil The composition according to the present invention is suitable for use at 25°C and atmospheric pressure (1.013 × 10⁻⁶). 5 The present invention further comprises at least one specific second non-volatile hydrocarbon oil that is liquid at Pa.

[0052] The term "non-volatile oil" refers to an oil whose vapor pressure, at 25°C and atmospheric pressure, is not zero but less than 2.66 Pa, more specifically less than 0.13 Pa. For example, vapor pressure can be measured according to static methods or by leaching by isothermal thermogravimetric analysis, depending on the vapor pressure of the oil (OECD 104 standard).

[0053] The composition according to the present invention includes, as a second oil, an ether of formula ROR', a carbonate of formula RO(CO)OR' (wherein the formula, the R and R' groups may be the same or different, and are saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched hydrocarbon groups containing up to 16 carbon atoms, preferably C3-C3). 16 Basic; see C8~C for more details. 16 It comprises a base (representing a group of substances); and also includes at least one oil selected from mixtures thereof.

[0054] Preferably, the second oil is selected from dicaprylyl ether, dipropyl carbonate, diethylhexyl carbonate, dicaprylyl carbonate, C14-15 dialkyl carbonates, and mixtures thereof. More specifically, the second oil is selected from dicaprylyl ether, dicaprylyl carbonate, and mixtures thereof, and preferably the second oil is dicaprylyl ether.

[0055] The content of the second oil varies, more specifically, from 1% to 32% by mass, more specifically from 10% to 30% by mass, and even more preferably from 15% to 30% by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition.

[0056] Preferably, the content of the first and second oils is such that the mass ratio of the first oil to the second oil varies from 50 / 50 to 90 / 10, and more specifically from 55 / 45 to 70 / 30.

[0057] Non-volatile ester oil The composition according to the present invention is selected from ester-type nonvolatile hydrocarbon oils, and is suitable for use at 25°C and atmospheric pressure (1.013 × 10⁻¹⁰ 5 It may further contain at least one additional non-volatile oil that is liquid at Pa.

[0058] The term "ester-type hydrocarbon oil" refers to a hydrocarbon oil containing at least one ester functional group.

[0059] The ester-type non-volatile hydrocarbon oils may be selected from, in particular, hydroxylated or non-hydroxylated vegetable oils; optionally, hydroxylated ester oils having at least one linear or branched, saturated, unsaturated or aromatic ester functional group containing 1 to 4 ester groups with at least 10 carbon atoms; monounsaturated or polyunsaturated acid dimers; liquid polyesters derived from the reaction of fatty acids containing 16 to 22 carbon atoms; and mixtures thereof.

[0060] More specifically, ester-type non-volatile hydrocarbon oils are selected from the following: -Olive oil, jojoba oil, seaweed oil, pracaxi oil, malt oil, corn oil, sunflower oil, shea oil, sweet almond oil, macadamia oil, apricot kernel oil, soybean oil, rapeseed oil, peanut oil, cottonseed oil, alfalfa oil, poppy oil, red chestnut pumpkin oil, sesame oil, pumpkin oil, avocado oil, hazelnut oil, grapeseed oil, blackcurrant oil, argan oil, evening primrose oil, millet oil, barley oil, linseed oil, quinoa oil, rye oil, safflower oil, kukui oil, passionflower oil, musk rose oil, liquid fraction of shea butter and liquid fraction of cocoa butter and mixtures thereof; - Castor oil; - Castor oil ethyl ester; -2-Ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-Octyldecyl palmitate, Octyldodecylneopentanoate, 2-Octyldodecyl stearate, Butyl stearate, 2-Octyldodecyl ethyl phosphate, C 12 ~C 15 Alkyl benzoate, 2-octyldodecyl benzoate, isocetyl isostearate, isononyl isononanoate, isostearyl isostearate, isopropyl palmitate, hexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate, isopropyl myristate, 2-octyldodecyl myristate, diisostearyl malate, glyceryl tri(2-decyltetradecanoate), caprin / caprylic triglyceride, C 18~36 Acid triglycerides, glyceryl triheptanoates, glyceryl trioctanoates, glyceryl tri(2-decyltetradecanoates), triisostearyl citrate, tridecyl trimellitate, pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate, pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate, pentaerythrityl tetra(2-decyltetradecanoates); isostearyl lactate, octyl hydroxystearate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate; -Polyesters with the following INCI names: dilinoleic acid / butanediol copolymer, dilinoleic acid / propanediol copolymer, dimer dilinoleyl dilinoleate; -and mixtures thereof.

[0061] Preferably, the ester-type non-volatile hydrocarbon oil is selected from non-hydroxylated vegetable oils, such as olive oil; castor oil; castor oil ethyl ester; caprin / caprylic acid triglyceride, isocetyl isostearate, pentaerythrityl ester, such as particularly pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, and mixtures thereof. More preferably, the further non-volatile hydrocarbon oil is selected from non-hydroxylated vegetable oils, such as olive oil, castor oil ethyl ester, caprin / caprylic acid triglyceride, isocetyl isostearate, pentaerythrityl ester, such as particularly pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, and mixtures thereof.

[0062] The content of the ester-type nonvolatile hydrocarbon oil is more specifically in the range of 0.1% to 15% by mass, and more specifically in the range of 0.1% to 10% by mass. Preferably, the content of further nonvolatile oil is in the range of 0.1% to 5% by mass relative to the total mass of the composition.

[0063] Preferably, the content of the second oil and the ester-type nonvolatile hydrocarbon oil is 1% to 32% by mass, preferably 10% to 30% by mass, and more specifically 15% to 30% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition.

[0064] Preferably, the mass ratio of the second oil to the further non-volatile hydrocarbon oil is in the range of 99 / 1 to 50 / 50, preferably 99 / 1 to 70 / 30.

[0065] More oil Volatile hydrocarbon oils The composition according to the present invention may optionally contain at least one volatile hydrocarbon oil.

[0066] The term "volatile oil" is understood to mean an oil having a vapor pressure of 2.66 Pa or higher at ambient temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure, particularly in the range of 2.66 Pa to 40,000 Pa, especially up to 13,000 Pa, and preferably up to 1,300 Pa.

[0067] The volatile hydrocarbon oil is preferably selected from nonpolar hydrocarbon oils.

[0068] The term "nonpolar" is understood to mean hydrocarbon oils (hydrocarbon-type compounds) composed of carbon and hydrogen atoms.

[0069] In particular, these are volatile hydrocarbon oils and mixtures thereof containing 8 to 16 carbon atoms, especially: - Branching C8~C 16 Alkanes, for example, C8~C 16 Isoalkanes (also known as isoparaffins), isododecane, isodecane or isohexadecane, etc., and oils sold under trade names such as Isopar or Permethyl, - Linear alkanes, e.g., C 11 ~C 16 Alkane and - those mixtures It can be selected from the following.

[0070] If the composition contains any of the above, the content of volatile hydrocarbon oil is preferably 10% by mass or less, and preferably 5% by mass or less, relative to the mass of the composition, and advantageously, the composition does not contain volatile oil.

[0071] Nonpolar, non-volatile hydrocarbon oils According to another specific embodiment, the composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one nonpolar, non-volatile hydrocarbon oil.

[0072] For example, nonpolar, non-volatile hydrocarbon oils may be selected from liquid paraffin, squalane, isoeicosane, non-volatile mixtures of saturated linear hydrocarbons, hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated polybutene, hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated polyisobutene, hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated polydecene, decene / butene copolymer, butene / isobutene copolymer, and mixtures thereof.

[0073] Preferably, the composition according to the present invention contains 0.1% to 10% by mass, preferably 0.1% to 5% by mass, of a nonpolar, non-volatile hydrocarbon oil based on the total mass of the composition. Preferably, the composition according to the present invention does not contain a nonpolar, non-volatile hydrocarbon oil.

[0074] Silicone and fluorinated oils The compositions according to the present invention may optionally contain at least one volatile or non-volatile silicone and / or fluorinated oil.

[0075] The term "silicone oil" is understood to mean an oil that contains at least one silicon atom.

[0076] The term "fluorinated oil" is understood to mean an oil that contains at least one fluorine atom.

[0077] In particular, among non-volatile silicone oils, examples include dimethicone, dimethiconol, trimethylpentaphenyltrisiloxane, tetramethyltetraphenyltrisiloxane, diphenyldimethicone, trimethylsiloxyphenyldimethicone, phenyltrimethicone, diphenylsiloxyphenyltrimethicone; and mixtures thereof (INCI names).

[0078] In particular, among non-volatile fluorinated oils, total fluorine-substituted compounds, such as perfluorodecalin or perfluoroperhydrophenanthrene (INCI names), are examples. Fluorosilicone oils are also examples.

[0079] In particular, examples of volatile silicone oils of dimethicone with viscosities of 5 and 6 cSt include octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, hexameldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, dodecamethylpentasiloxane, and mixtures thereof.

[0080] Examples of volatile fluorinated oils include nonafluoromethoxybutane or perfluoromethylcyclopentane and mixtures thereof.

[0081] According to one embodiment of the present invention, if such oil is present, its content does not exceed 4% by mass, more specifically 2% by mass, and advantageously not exceed 1% by mass, with respect to the mass of the composition.

[0082] surfactant Nonionic hydrocarbon surfactants As already shown, the composition according to the present invention comprises at least one first nonionic hydrocarbon surfactant.

[0083] More specifically, the surfactant is selected from sucrose esters, sorbitan esters, monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated nonionic hydrocarbon surfactants and mixtures thereof.

[0084] In particular, among sucrose esters, sucrose cocoate, mono-polyester, or polyester, preferably containing at least one saturated or unsaturated C 12 ~C 24Examples include mono, di, or triesters containing the group. Preferably, the sucrose ester does not contain alkoxylated (particularly ethoxylated or propoxylated) groups. Among suitable sucrose esters, examples include sucrose cocoate, sucrose laurate, sucrose myristate, sucrose palmitate, sucrose stearate, sucrose distearate, sucrose oleate, sucrose behenate, or sucrose trystearate, either alone or in mixtures. Preferably, the sucrose ester is selected from sucrose laurate, sucrose palmitate, or mixtures thereof.

[0085] With respect to sorbitan esters, at least one saturated or unsaturated C is present. 12 ~C 24 Examples include sorbitan mono or polyester, preferably mono, di, or triester, containing the group. Preferably, the sorbitan ester does not contain alkoxylated (particularly ethoxylated or propoxylated) groups. For example, suitable sorbitan esters include sorbitan stearate, sorbitan isostearate, sorbitan trystearate, sorbitan laurate, sorbitan oleate, sorbitan sesquioleate, sorbitan trioleate, or sorbitan palmitate and mixtures thereof.

[0086] Regarding monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated nonionic fatty acid esters, C 12 ~C 24Examples include saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched monocarboxylic acid monoesters or polyesters containing groups and 1 to 6 glycerol units. Advantageously, polyglycerolated nonionic fatty acid esters do not contain alkoxylated (particularly ethoxylated or propoxylated) groups. Examples of this type of compound include polyglycerolated monoesters and polyesters of ricinoleic acid, oleic acid, stearic acid or isostearic acid, glycerolated esters of oleic acid, stearic acid or isostearic acid, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated nonionic fatty acid esters are selected from compounds having an HLB value of 8 or less. It is recalled that "HLB" or "hydrophilic-lipidophilic balance" is determined by the Griffin sense as defined in J.Soc. Cosm. Chem., 1954 (volume 5), 249-256.

[0087] Examples include glyceryl stearate, glyceryl oleate, polyglyceryl-2 diisostearate, polyglyceryl-2 triisostearate, polyglyceryl-2 tetraisostearate, polyglyceryl-3 stearate, polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate, polyglyceryl-3 oleate, polyglyceryl-3 polyricinoleate, polyglyceryl-4 isostearate, polyglyceryl-4 diisostearate, polyglyceryl-6 polyricinoleate, and mixtures thereof.

[0088] Preferably, the composition comprises a first nonionic hydrocarbon surfactant, at least one nonionic surfactant selected from sucrose esters and sorbitan esters, particularly sucrose cocoate, sucrose laurate, sucrose myristate, sucrose palmitate, sucrose stearate, sucrose oleate, sucrose behenate, sorbitan stearate, sorbitan isostearate, sorbitan laurate, sorbitan oleate, sorbitan palmitate, and mixtures thereof.

[0089] Preferably, the composition comprises, as a first nonionic hydrocarbon surfactant, at least one sucrose-type surfactant, either alone or in a mixture, more specifically sucrose cocoate, sucrose laurate, sucrose myristate, sucrose palmitate, sucrose stearate, sucrose oleate, or sucrose behenate.

[0090] Preferably, the composition according to the present invention also includes at least one first surfactant selected from sucrose laurate, sucrose palmitate, and mixtures thereof.

[0091] More specifically, the content of the first nonionic hydrocarbon surfactant is in the range of 1% to 7% by mass, more specifically 2% to 6% by mass, preferably 2% to 4% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition.

[0092] Further nonionic surfactants The compositions according to the present invention may optionally include at least one further nonionic hydrocarbon system or silicone, preferably hydrocarbon-based, surfactant.

[0093] Further nonionic surfactants may be selected from, in particular, (poly)oxyalkylened alkyl- and polyalkyl esters; (poly)oxyalkylened alcohols; (poly)oxyalkylened ethers; (poly)oxyalkylened sorbitan alkyl- and polyalkyl esters; (poly)oxyalkylened or non-(poly)oxyalkylened sorbitan ethers; alkyl- and polyalkyl glycosides or polyglycosides, in particular alkyl- and polyalkyl glucosides or polyglucosides; (poly)oxyalkylened (poly)glycerol alkyl- and polyalkyl esters; (poly)oxyalkylened or non-(poly)oxyalkylened (poly)glycerol alkyl- and polyalkyl ethers; and mixtures thereof. These compounds, more specifically, contain at least one C8-C 30It contains alkyl radicals; the oxyalkylene units are C2-C3, preferably ethylene oxide units. The number of oxyalkylene units, more specifically oxyethylene units, and also the number of (poly)glycerol units varies as a function of the desired HLB value.

[0094] If they are present, the content of additional nonionic surfactants is favorably less than the content of the first surfactant. Their content is very obviously determined in order to maintain the water-in-oil emulsion.

[0095] More specifically, if any of the compositions are included, the content of further nonionic surfactants corresponds to 0.01% to 1% by mass, preferably 0.1% to 1% by mass, based on the total mass of the compositions.

[0096] More specifically, the content of the additional nonionic surfactant corresponds to 1% to 50% by mass, more favorably 1% to 25% by mass, relative to the mass of the first surfactant.

[0097] Preferably, the composition lacks further nonionic surfactants.

[0098] Further anionic surfactants The compositions according to the present invention may optionally include at least one further anionic, more specifically hydrocarbon-based, surfactant.

[0099] Anionic surfactants include alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, carboxylates, amino acid derivatives, sulfonates, isethionates, taurates, sulfosuccinates, alkyl sulfoacetates, phosphates and alkyl phosphates, polypeptides or C 10 ~C 30 They can be selected from metal salts of fatty acids.

[0100] More specifically, these compounds are in the form of alkali metal salts, such as sodium or potassium, or primary or secondary, especially C2-C4, such as amines or alkanolamines.

[0101] These compounds generally contain 10 to 30 carbon atoms, particularly 10 to 20 carbon atoms, in their longest hydrocarbon chains, and are saturated or unsaturated and linear, branched or cyclic. They may further contain up to 20 oxyalkylene units, preferably up to 15 units (particularly oxyethylene units).

[0102] If the composition contains any of the anionic surfactants, the content of any further anionic surfactants is such that the composition is in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion.

[0103] More specifically, if any of the compositions are included, the content of further anionic surfactants is 1% by mass or less, more specifically 0.4% by mass or less, and more specifically 0.3% by mass or less, relative to the mass of the composition. For example, the content of further anionic surfactants may be 0.01% to 1% by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition.

[0104] More specifically, the content of the anionic surfactant corresponds to 1% to 50% by mass, more favorably 1% to 25% by mass, relative to the mass of the first surfactant.

[0105] Preferably, the composition lacks further anionic surfactants.

[0106] coloring agent According to a specific embodiment of the present invention, the composition according to the present invention comprises at least one colorant that is synthetic, natural, or of natural origin.

[0107] The colorants may be selected from coated or uncoated pigments, water-soluble dyes, and lipid-soluble dyes.

[0108] pigment The term "pigment" is understood to mean white or colored and inorganic or organic particles that are insoluble in the medium in which they are found and are intended to color and / or opaque the resulting composition and / or deposits.

[0109] Inorganic pigments and pearlescent luster agents According to certain embodiments, the pigments used in the present invention are selected from inorganic pigments.

[0110] The term "inorganic pigment" means any pigment that satisfies the definition in the chapter on inorganic pigments in Ullmann's Encyclopaedia. Among the inorganic pigments used in this invention, examples include zirconium oxide or cerium oxide and also zinc oxide, iron oxide (black, yellow, or red) or chromium oxide, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate and ferric blue, titanium dioxide or metal powders, such as aluminum powder and copper powder. The following inorganic pigments may also be used: Ta2O5, Ti3O5, Ti2O3, TiO, ZrO2 as a mixture with TiO2, ZrO2, Nb2O5, CeO2, ZnS.

[0111] The diameter of the pigment is generally greater than 100 nm, and may be in the range of 10 μm at most, preferably 200 nm to 5 μm, and more preferably 300 nm to 1 μm.

[0112] According to a particular embodiment of the present invention, the diameter of the pigment is characterized in that D

[50] is greater than 100 nm and can be as close to 10 μm as possible, preferably 200 nm to 5 μm, and more preferably 300 nm to 1 μm.

[0113] This diameter is measured by static light scattering using a commercially available particle size analyzer of the Master Sizer 3000® type from Malvern, which allows for the determination of the particle size distribution of all particles over a wide range, from 0.01 μm to 1000 μm. The data is processed based on standard Mie scattering theory. This theory is most appropriate for diameter distributions ranging from less than μm to multimicronic; this makes it possible to determine the "effective" particle size. This theory is described in particular in the publication by Van de Hulst, HC, Light Scattering by Small Particles, Chapters 9 and 10, Wiley, New York, 1957.

[0114] D

[50] represents the maximum diameter of 50 volume percent of the particles.

[0115] In the scope of the present invention, the inorganic pigment is more specifically iron oxide and / or titanium dioxide. More specifically, examples include titanium dioxide and iron oxide coated with aluminum stearoyl glutamate, for example, sold by Miyoshi Kasei under reference code NAI®.

[0116] In the present invention, an inorganic pigment that can be used is also a pearlescent pigment.

[0117] The term “pearlescent pigment” should be understood to mean any colored or colorless particles of any shape that exhibit a coloration effect through light interference, which may or may not have iridescence, and are produced or synthesized in the shells of certain mollusks.

[0118] The pearlescent pigments can be selected from pearlescent pigments such as titanium mica coated with iron oxide, titanium mica coated with bismuth oxychloride, titanium mica coated with chromium oxide, titanium mica coated with organic dyes, and bismuth oxychloride-based pearlescent pigments. They may also be mica particles in which at least two continuous layers of metal oxides and / or organic dyes are superimposed on their surface.

[0119] Examples of pearlescent luster agents include natural mica coated with titanium dioxide, iron oxide, natural pigments, or bismuth oxychloride.

[0120] The pearlescent agent may, more specifically, exhibit a yellow, pink, red, reddish-brown, orange, brown, gold, and / or copper color or a glint of these colors.

[0121] Among the pigments that can be used in accordance with the present invention, there may be those that have optical effects different from simple conventional coloring effects, i.e., the unified and stabilized effects produced by conventional colorants such as monochromatic pigments. Within the scope of the present invention, the term “stabilized” means that there is no effect of the color changing in various ways with respect to the observation angle or in response to temperature changes.

[0122] For example, the material may be selected from particles having a metallic sheen, goniochromatic colorants, photodiffractive pigments, thermochromic colorants, optical glossants, and even fibers, particularly photointerference fibers. Naturally, these various materials can be combined to exhibit two effects simultaneously, and even novel effects according to the present invention.

[0123] According to another specific embodiment of the present invention, the composition comprises at least one pigment coated with at least one lipid-soluble or hydrophobic compound.

[0124] This type of pigment is particularly advantageous. As long as they are treated with hydrophobic compounds, they exhibit a dominant affinity for the oily phase, which can then transport them.

[0125] The coating may also include at least one further non-lipophilic compound.

[0126] Within the meaning of the present invention, "coating" of a pigment according to the present invention generally refers to the whole or partial surface treatment of a pigment by a surface material that is absorbed onto, adsorbed onto, or bonded to the pigment.

[0127] Surface-treated pigments can be prepared according to surface treatment techniques with chemical, electrical, mechanochemical, or mechanical properties well known to those skilled in the art. Commercially available products may also be used.

[0128] Surface treatment agents can be absorbed onto, adsorbed onto, or adhered to pigments by evaporation of the solvent, chemical reactions, and the formation of covalent bonds.

[0129] According to one alternative, the surface treatment consists of a pigment coating.

[0130] The coating may amount to 0.1% to 20% by mass, and particularly 0.5% to 5% by mass, of the total mass of the coated pigment.

[0131] The coating may be produced by, for example, selectively heating and simply mixing solid particles and a liquid surface treatment agent while stirring, before incorporating the particles into other ingredients of a makeup or care composition, thereby adsorbing the liquid surface treatment agent onto the surface of the solid particles.

[0132] The coating may be produced, for example, by chemically reacting a surface treatment agent with the surface of solid pigment particles to create a covalent bond between the surface treatment agent and the particles. This method is described in particular in U.S. Patent No. 4,578,266.

[0133] Chemical surface treatment may consist of diluting a surface treatment agent with a volatile solvent, dispersing a pigment in this mixture, and then slowly evaporating the volatile solvent, thereby depositing the surface treatment agent onto the surface of the pigment.

[0134] If the pigment includes an oil-lipid or hydrophobic coating, this is preferably present in the fatty phase of the composition according to the present invention.

[0135] According to certain embodiments of the present invention, pigments may be coated in accordance with the present invention with at least one compound selected from silicone-based surface treatment agents; fluorine-based surface treatment agents; fluorosilicone-based surface treatment agents; metal soaps; N-acyl amino acids or salts thereof; lecithin and its derivatives; isopropyltriisostearyl titanate; isostearyl sebacate; natural plant-based or animal-based waxes; polar synthetic waxes; fatty esters; phospholipids; and mixtures thereof.

[0136] According to certain embodiments of the present invention, pigments can be coated with hydrophilic compounds.

[0137] The hydrophilic compound, which enables surface treatment of the pigment to optimize its dispersion in the aqueous phase, is more specifically selected from biological polymers, carbohydrates, polysaccharides, polyacrylates, or polyethylene glycol derivatives.

[0138] Examples of biomacromolecules include polymers based on carbohydrate-type monomers.

[0139] More specifically, these include biosaccharide gums; chitosan and its derivatives, such as butoxychitosan, carboxymethylchitosan, carboxybutylchitosan, chitosan gluconate, chitosan adipate, chitosan glycolate, chitosan lactate, etc.; chitin and its derivatives, such as carboxymethylchitin or chitin glycolate, etc.; cellulose and its derivatives, such as cellulose acetate, etc.; microcrystalline cellulose; sodium hyaluronate; soluble proteoglycans; galactoarabinan; glycosaminoglycans; glycogen; sclerotium gum; dextran; starch and its derivatives, such as distarch phosphate, etc.; and mixtures thereof.

[0140] Organic pigments According to certain embodiments, the colorants are synthetic, natural, or naturally occurring organic pigments.

[0141] The term "organic pigment" is understood to mean any pigment that meets the definition in the chapter "Pigments, Organic" of Ullmann's Encyclopaedia. Organic pigments may be selected from, in particular, nitroso, nitro, azo, xanthene, quinoline, anthraquinone, phthalocyanine, metal complex type, isoindolinone, isoindoline, quinacridone, perinone, perylene, diketopyrrolopyrrole, thioindigo, dioxazine, triphenylmethane, and quinophthalone compounds.

[0142] Organic pigments include, for example, carmine, carbon black, aniline black, melanin, azo yellow, quinacridone, phthalocyanine blue, sorghum red, blue pigments classified in the Color Index by reference numbers CI 42090, 69800, 69825, 73000, 74100 and 74160, yellow pigments classified in the Color Index by reference numbers CI 11680, 11710, 15985, 19140, 20040, 21100, 21108, 47000 and 47005, green pigments classified in the Color Index by reference numbers CI 61565, 61570 and 74260, orange pigments classified in the Color Index by reference numbers CI 11725, 15510, 45370 and 71105, and CI Red pigments classified by reference numbers 12085, 12120, 12370, 12420, 12490, 14700, 15525, 15580, 15620, 15630, 15800, 15850, 15865, 15880, 17200, 26100, 45380, 45410, 58000, 73360, 73915 and 75470 may be selected, as well as pigments obtained by oxidative polymerization of indole or phenolic derivatives as described in French Patent No. 2679771.

[0143] The pigments may also be in the form of composite pigments, as described in European Patent No. 1184426. These composite pigments may, in particular, consist of particles comprising an organic pigment and an inorganic core that is at least partially coated with at least one binder resulting in the fixation of the organic pigment to the core.

[0144] Pigments can also be lakes. The term "lake" is understood to mean an insoluble dye adsorbed on insoluble particles, and the resulting aggregate remains insoluble during use.

[0145] Examples of inorganic substrates for adsorbing dyes include alumina, silica, sodium calcium borosilicate, or calcium aluminum borosilicate and aluminum.

[0146] Among organic dyes, cochineal carmine is one example. Mention may also be made of products known by the following names: D&C Red 21 (CI 45 380), D&C Orange 5 (CI 45 370), D&C Red 27 (CI 45 410), D&C Orange 10 (CI 45 425), D&C Red 3 (CI 45 430), D&C Red 4 (CI 15). 510), D&C Red 33(CI 17 200), D&C Yellow 5(CI 19 140), D&C Yellow 6(CI 15 985), D&C Green 5(CI 61 570), D&C Yellow 10(CI 77 002), D&C Green 3(CI 42 053) or D&C Blue 1(CI 42 090).

[0147] An example of a rake is the product known as D&C Red 7 (CI 15 850:1).

[0148] Of particular note is that organic pigments can also be coated. In this case, one can refer to the corresponding explanation given for inorganic pigments.

[0149] water soluble dye According to a specific embodiment of the present invention, the colorant is a water-soluble dye.

[0150] For the purposes of this invention, the term "water-soluble dye" means any natural or synthetic, generally organic compound that is soluble in an aqueous phase or a water-miscible solvent and is coloring.

[0151] In particular, suitable water-soluble dyes for the present invention include synthetic or natural water-soluble dyes such as FDC Red 4, DC Red 6, DC Red 22, DC Red 28, DC Red 30, DC Red 33, DC Orange 4, DC Yellow 5, DC Yellow 6, DC Yellow 8, FDC Green 3, DC Green 5, or FDC Blue 1.

[0152] Among natural water-soluble dyes, anthocyanins belonging to the ortho-diphenol family are noteworthy. More specifically, these compounds are obtained from fruits such as grapes, blackberries, and plums, or from vegetables such as red cabbage, red radish, or purple sweet potato. Therefore, they are basically responsible for the lilac, red, blue, and purple colors of flowers, fruits, leaves, seeds, and roots.

[0153] Other examples include betanin (beetroot), copper chlorophyllin, methylene blue, caramel, riboflavin, flavonoids and tannins, juglon, lawsone, extracts of fermented soybeans, algae, fungi, or microorganisms, flavilium salts with the 3rd position unsubstituted as described in European Patent No. 1172091, or extracts of Gesneria fulgens, Blechnum procerum, or Saxifraga.

[0154] fat soluble dye According to a specific embodiment of the present invention, the colorant is a lipid-soluble dye.

[0155] Within the meaning of the present invention, the term “lipid-soluble dye” is understood to mean any natural or synthetic compound, generally an organic compound, that is soluble in an oily phase or a solvent miscible with an oily phase, and is colorable.

[0156] In particular, suitable lipid-soluble dyes for the present invention include, for example, DC Red 17, DC Red 21, DC Red 27, DC Green 6, DC Yellow 11, DC Violet 2, DC Orange 5, Sudan Red, or Sudan Brown.

[0157] Examples of natural lipid-soluble dyes include carotenes, such as β-carotene, α-carotene, or lycopene; quinoline yellow; xanthophylls, such as astaxanthin, antheraxanthin, citranaxanthin, cryptoxanthin, canthaxanthin, diatomoxanthin, flavoxanthin, fucoxanthin, lutein, rhodoxanthin, rubixanthin, siphonaxanthin, violaxanthin, or zeaxanthin; annatto; curcumin; quinizalin (Ceres Green BB, D&C Green No. 6, CI 61565, 1,4-bis(p-toluidino)anthraquinone, Green No. 202, quinizalin SS) and chlorophyll.

[0158] The colorant content, when any of the present composition is included, is advantageously 0.05% to 10% by mass, preferably 0.05% to 5% by mass, with respect to the mass of the present composition.

[0159] solid fatty compounds wax The compositions according to the present invention may optionally comprise at least one polar or nonpolar hydrocarbon wax or optionally one silicone wax.

[0160] The waxes considered in the context of the present invention are generally lipophilic compounds that are solid at an ambient temperature (25°C) where the solid / liquid phase change is reversible, and whose melting point is particularly 30°C or higher, more specifically 45°C or higher. Advantageously, the melting point is 90°C or lower, more specifically 80°C or lower, and preferably 70°C or lower.

[0161] The melting point of solid fatty substances can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), such as the DSC Q100 sold by TA Instruments with TA Universal Analysis software.

[0162] The measurement protocol is as follows: A sample of approximately 5 mg of solid fatty material is placed in a "hermetic aluminum capsule" crucible.

[0163] The sample is subjected to a first temperature increase, which is expanded from 20°C to 120°C at a heating rate of 2°C / min up to 80°C, then the sample is left at an isothermal temperature of 100°C for 20 minutes, then cooled from 120°C to 0°C at a cooling rate of 2°C / min, and finally subjected to a second temperature increase, which is expanded from 0°C to 20°C at a heating rate of 2°C / min.

[0164] The melting point of a solid fatty substance is the value of the peak of the most endothermic observed on the melting curve, which represents the variation in the absorbed power difference as a function of temperature.

[0165] Polar hydrocarbon waxes More specifically, polar waxes are selected from hydrocarbon ester waxes, hydrocarbon alcohol waxes, silicone waxes, and mixtures thereof.

[0166] The term "hydrocarbon wax" is understood to mean waxes that are essentially formed from carbon and hydrogen atoms, and optionally from oxygen or nitrogen atoms, and may even be composed of these atoms, but do not contain silicon or fluorine atoms. These may contain alcohols, esters, ethers, carboxylic acids, amines, and / or amide groups.

[0167] According to the present invention, the term "ester wax" means a wax containing at least one ester functional group. Ester waxes can be further hydroxylated.

[0168] According to the present invention, the term "alcohol wax" means a wax containing at least one alcohol functional group, that is, at least one free hydroxyl (OH) group. Further alcohol waxes do not contain ester functional groups in particular.

[0169] The term "silicone wax" is understood to mean a wax that contains at least one silicon atom, and in particular a Si-O group.

[0170] Ester wax In particular, waxes selected from the following may be used as ester waxes: i) Waxes of the formula R1COOR2 (wherein R1 and R2 represent linear, branched, or cyclic aliphatic chains, the number of carbon atoms varies from 10 to 50, and heteroatoms, especially oxygen, may be contained) may be used, and their melting point temperature may vary from 30°C to 120°C, preferably from 30°C to 100°C. In particular, as ester waxes, C may be used alone or in mixtures. 20 ~C 40 Alkyl (hydroxystearyloxy) stearate (alkyl group containing 20 to 40 carbon atoms) or C 20 ~C 40 Alkyl stearates may be used. Such waxes are marketed in particular by Koster Keunen under the names Kester Wax K 82 P®, Hydroxypolyester K 82 P®, Kester Wax K 80 P®, or Kester Wax K82H. 14 ~C 18 Mixtures of carboxylic acid and alcohol esters, such as the product cetyl ester Wax 814 from Koster Keunen, SP Crodamol MS MBAL or Crodamol MS PA from Croda, or Miraceti from Laserson, may also be used. Glycol and butylene glycol montanes (octacosanoates), such as Licowax KPS Flakes (INCI name: glycol montane), a wax sold by Clariant, may also be used. ii) Di(1,1,1-trimethylolpropane)tetrastearate, sold by Heterene under the name Hest 2T-4S (registered trademark). iii) The following general formula R 3-(-OCO-R 4 -COO-R 5 ) dicarboxylic acid diester wax (wherein R 3 and R 5 They are either the same or different, preferably the same, C4~C 30 R represents an alkyl group (an alkyl group contains 4 to 30 carbon atoms). 4 It may contain one or more unsaturated C4-C atoms, and may not contain any, and is a linear or branched C4-C atom. 30 Represents an aliphatic group (alkyl groups contain 4 to 30 carbon atoms). Preferably C4-C 30 Aliphatic groups are linear and unsaturated. iv) Animal or vegetable oil, preferably linear or branched C8-C 32 Waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of vegetable oils having fatty chains, such as hydrogenated jojoba oil, hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, or hydrogenated coconut oil, and waxes obtained by hydrogenating castor oil esterified with cetyl alcohol, such as those sold by Sophim under the names Phytowax Ricin 16L64 (registered trademark) and 22L73 (registered trademark). Such waxes are described in French Patent Application Publication No. FR-A-2 792 190. An example of a wax obtained by hydrogenating olive oil esterified with stearyl alcohol is the one sold under the name "Phytowax Olive 18 L57". v) Waxes of animal or plant origin, such as beeswax, synthetic beeswax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, lanolin wax, rice bran wax, aurichalle wax, espartograss wax, berry wax, shellac wax, cork fiber wax, sugarcane wax, wood wax, sumac wax, montan wax, orange and lemon wax, laurel wax, or sunflower wax, especially refined sunflower wax. vi) Natural or synthetic polyalkylene or polyglycerolated hydrocarbon waxes of animal or plant origin may also be included; the number of (C2-C4) oxyalkylene units may range from 2 to 100, and the number of glycerol units may range from 1 to 20. Examples include polyoxyethylene-modified beeswax, e.g., PEG-6 beeswax or PEG-8 beeswax; polyoxyethylene-modified carnauba wax, e.g., PEG-12 carnauba; polyoxyethylene-modified or polyoxypropylene-modified and hydrogenated or unhydrogenated lanolin wax, e.g., PEG-30 lanolin or PEG-75 lanolin; PPG-5 lanolin wax glycerides; polyglycerol-modified beeswax, especially polyglyceryl-3 beeswax, acacia decurrens / jojoba / sunflower seed wax / polyglyceryl-3 ester mixtures, polyglycerol-modified vegetable waxes, e.g., mimosa, jojoba, or sunflower wax, and mixtures thereof (acacia decurrens / jojoba / sunflower seed wax polyglyceryl-3 ester). vii) Partially or fully esterified, preferably with glycerol, saturated, optionally hydroxylated C 16 ~C 30 Waxes corresponding to the total esters of carboxylic acids. The term "total ester" means that all hydroxyl functional groups of glycerol are esterified. Examples include trihydroxystearin (or glyceryl trihydroxystearate), tristearin (or glyceryl tristearate), or tribehenin (or glyceryl tribehenate), either alone or in mixtures. Among suitable compounds are triesters of glycerol and 12-hydroxystearic acid, or hydrogenated castor oil, such as Thixcin R and Thixcin E sold by Elementis Specialties. viii) and mixtures thereof.

[0171] Alcohol wax Examples of alcohol waxes include alcohols that are preferably linear, preferably saturated, contain 16 to 60 carbon atoms, and have a melting point of 25°C to 90°C. Examples of alcohol waxes include stearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, palmityl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, or mixtures thereof.

[0172] Nonpolar hydrocarbon waxes This composition may optionally include at least one further wax selected from nonpolar hydrocarbon waxes.

[0173] Within the meaning of this invention, the term "nonpolar hydrocarbon wax" is understood to mean a wax that contains only carbon or hydrogen atoms in its structure. In other words, such waxes lack other atoms, particularly heteroatoms, such as nitrogen, oxygen, or silicon.

[0174] In particular, examples of nonpolar waxes suitable for the present invention include hydrocarbon waxes, such as microcrystalline waxes, paraffin waxes, ozokerites, polymethylene waxes, polyethylene waxes, and especially polyethylene waxes obtained by Fischer-Tropsch synthesis or microwaxes.

[0175] Silicone wax Examples of silicone waxes include mixtures containing compounds of the type C30-45 alkyldimethylsilyl polypropylsilsesquioxane (INCI name), such as Dow Corning SW-8005 C30 Resin Wax, a product sold by Dow Corning. Other examples include mixtures containing compounds of the type C30-45 alkylmethicone (INCI name), such as Dow Corning® AMS-C30 Cosmetic Wax. Siliconized beeswax is also an example.

[0176] Preferably, the composition does not contain any silicone waxes. Preferably, it does not contain nonpolar hydrocarbon waxes.

[0177] Preferably, if the composition contains any of the following, the wax is a polar hydrocarbon wax, particularly a plant-derived wax, a wax obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of vegetable oil, or a saturated, optionally hydroxylated C2 wax with glycerol. 16 ~C 30 The waxes are selected from all esters of carboxylic acids, and also from mixtures thereof.

[0178] The composition according to the present invention may contain a wax content of 0.1% to 10% by mass, more specifically 0.1% to 3% by mass, with respect to the mass of the composition, preferably polar, preferably hydrocarbon-based.

[0179] paste-like compound The composition according to the present invention may also include at least one fatty compound that is paste-like at ambient temperature.

[0180] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “paste-like fatty substance” means a fatty substance having a melting point in the range of 20°C to 55°C, preferably 25°C to 45°C, and / or a viscosity at 40°C measured using a Contraves TV or Rheomat 80 viscometer with a spindle rotating at 60 Hz, in the range of 0.1 to 40 Pa.s (1 to 400 poise), preferably 0.5 to 25 Pa.s.

[0181] Those skilled in the art may, based on their general knowledge, select a spindle from spindles MS-r3 and MS-r4 for measuring viscosity, enabling measurements to be performed on the paste-like compound under test.

[0182] Preferably, these fatty substances are optionally polymeric, hydrocarbon compounds; they may also be selected from silicone compounds; or they may also be in the form of a mixture of hydrocarbon and / or silicone compounds.

[0183] In the case of a mixture of different paste-like fatty substances, preferably, a paste-like hydrocarbon compound (mainly containing carbon and hydrogen atoms and optionally oxygen atoms, more specifically in the form of an ester group) is used in a dominant proportion.

[0184] Among the paste-like compounds that can be used in the compositions according to the present invention, examples include lanolin and lanolin derivatives, such as acetylated lanolin, oxypropylene lanolin, or isopropyl lanolate, and mixtures thereof, having a viscosity of 18 to 21 Pa.s, preferably 19 to 20.5 Pa.s, and / or a melting point of 30°C to 55°C. Esters of fatty acids or fatty alcohols, in particular triisostearyl or cetyl citrate; arachidyl propionate; polyvinyl laurate; cholesterol esters; triglycerides of plant origin, such as partially or fully hydrogenated vegetable oils; butters of plant origin; viscous polyesters, such as poly(12-hydroxystearic acid); and mixtures thereof, having 20 to 65 carbon atoms (melting points in the order of 20°C to 35°C and / or viscosity in the range of 0.1 to 40 Pa.s at 40°C).

[0185] Esters of oligomeric glycerols, particularly diglycerol esters, especially condensates of adipic acid and glycerol, in which some of the hydroxyl groups of glycerol react with a mixture of fatty acids, such as stearic acid, capric acid, isostearic acid, and 12-hydroxystearic acid, such as those sold by Sasol under the brand name Softisan 649; or, where appropriate, other esters of dimeric diols and dimeric diacids, particularly dimeric dilinoleate esters, which are esterified with acid or alcohol radicals at their free alcohol or acidic functional groups; for example, products sold under the brand name Plandool (bis-behenyl / isostearyl / phytosteryl dimer dilinoleyl dimer dilinoleate (Plandool G) or phytosteryl / isosteryl / cetyl / stearyl / behenyl dimer dilinoleate (Plandool H or Plandool S)) may also be suitable as paste-like compounds.

[0186] Examples include paste-like silicone fatty substances, such as polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) having alkyl or alkoxy-type suspension chains with 8 to 24 carbon atoms and a melting point of 20 to 55°C, such as stearyl dimethicone, particularly those sold by Dow Corning under trade names DC2503 and DC25514, and mixtures thereof.

[0187] The composition according to the present invention may contain a paste-like compound, preferably polar and preferably hydrocarbon-based, in a content of 0.1% to 5% by mass, more specifically 0.1% to 2% by mass, with respect to the mass of the composition.

[0188] Regular additional cosmetic ingredients The compositions according to the present invention may also include any of the following common cosmetic ingredients, which can be selected from fillers; lipid-soluble thickeners, which may or may not be hydrophobic, such as silica; clays, which may or may not be hydrophobic, which may or may not be hydrophobic; antioxidants; lipid-soluble or hydrophilic film-forming polymers other than ethylcellulose; fragrances; preservatives; neutralizing agents, buffering agents; sunscreens; sweeteners; vitamins; free radical scavengers; scavengers; and mixtures thereof.

[0189] Needless to say, those skilled in the art will take care in selecting these optional additional components and / or amounts such that the advantageous properties of the composition according to the present invention are not adversely affected or substantially adversely affected.

[0190] Preparation of this composition The emulsion is obtained by using means that are conventional to those skilled in the art for preparing water-in-oil emulsions.

[0191] Therefore, an aqueous phase and an oily phase of the emulsion are prepared on the one hand, and these two phases thus obtained are brought into contact with each other while stirring thoroughly to obtain a homogeneous composition; preferably the aqueous phase is introduced into the oily phase.

[0192] Typically, ethylcellulose is brought into contact with a first oil, and then, preferably, after a homogeneous mixture is obtained, other compounds in the oily phase, including optional solid compounds of the type of wax or paste, are added.

[0193] Depending on their properties, colorants may be present in the aqueous or lipid-soluble phase, or even a combination of these two possibilities, and can be added at the time the emulsion is obtained.

[0194] The temperature at which the oily phase is prepared typically varies between 25°C and 110°C, preferably between 70°C and 90°C, depending on the properties of its constituent components.

[0195] The aqueous phase is generally prepared at a temperature of 40-90°C.

[0196] Similarly, the mixing of the two phases takes place, more specifically, at temperatures below 100°C, and generally below 90°C. For example, emulsions are formed at temperatures between 40 and 90°C.

[0197] Once the emulsion is obtained, it is conventionally cooled or cooled, preferably while stirring, to a temperature suitable for sealing in a suitable container.

[0198] Application method Another subject of the present invention is a method for applying makeup and / or care for the lips, comprising the application of the above-described composition.

[0199] The compositions according to the present invention can be scooped up and applied by any suitable means, or otherwise by fingers, whether or not an applicator is used which includes, for example, an applicator head that is at least partially flocked.

[0200] Throughout this specification, including the claims, the phrase “comprising a” should be understood to mean “comprising at least one” unless otherwise specified.

[0201] The expressions "between ~ and ~" and "the range from ~ to ~" should be understood to mean including the endpoints unless otherwise specified.

[0202] Furthermore, the total amount of the components of this composition corresponds to 100% by mass of this composition.

[0203] The present invention will be described in more detail with reference to the following examples.

[0204] Unless otherwise specified, the quantities shown herein are expressed as mass percentages.

[0205] The following embodiments are provided to illustrate the present invention and are not intended to limit it. [Examples]

[0206] Example 1 Prepare the following composition:

[0207] [Table 1]

[0208] Preparation method Octyldodecanol, dicaprylyl ether, and ethylcellulose are mixed in a Rayneri mixer while stirring at 85°C until a homogeneous mixture is obtained.

[0209] Simultaneously, an aqueous phase is prepared by mixing water, surfactant, dye, and preservative in a Rayneri mixer at 85°C while stirring.

[0210] Then, the aqueous phase is added to the first mixture while stirring in a Rayneri mixer at 85°C.

[0211] Allow the mixture to cool to ambient temperature and place it in a suitable container.

[0212] evaluation It is transparent (Turbiscan LAB (By measuring the percentage of light transmission in Formulaction, a colored, homogeneous, and stable composition is obtained.)

[0213] It applies easily as a homogeneous deposit, is not very sticky, does not run off the area being applied, and moves only slightly.

[0214] The deposits are present, thick, comfortable, and provide a feeling of moisture.

[0215] The deposits are glossy and persist for extended periods, as shown in the table below (evaluated according to the protocol described herein):

[0216] [Table 2]

[0217] Example 2 Prepare the following composition:

[0218] [Table 3]

[0219] Preparation method Octyldodecanol, dicaprylyl ether, and ethylcellulose are mixed in a Rayneri mixer while stirring at 85°C until a homogeneous mixture is obtained.

[0220] Simultaneously, an aqueous phase is prepared by mixing water, surfactant, dye, glycerol, and preservative in a Rayneri mixer at 85°C while stirring.

[0221] Then, the aqueous phase is added to the first mixture while stirring in a Rayneri mixer at 85°C.

[0222] Allow the mixture to cool to ambient temperature and place it in a suitable container.

[0223] evaluation It is transparent (Turbiscan LAB (Measurement of the percentage of light transmission in Formulaction) to obtain a colored, homogeneous, and stable composition.

[0224] It applies easily as a homogeneous deposit, is not very sticky, does not run off the area being applied, and moves only slightly.

[0225] The deposits are present, thick, comfortable, and contribute to a feeling of moisture.

[0226] The deposits are glossy and persist for extended periods, as shown in the table below (evaluated according to the protocol described herein):

[0227] [Table 4]

[0228] Example 3 Prepare the following composition:

[0229] [Table 5]

[0230] Preparation method Mix ethylcellulose in a portion of the oil (octyldodecanol, dicaprylyl ether, pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate) in a Rayneri mixer, stirring at 85°C until a homogeneous mixture is obtained.

[0231] The pigment is ground in the remaining oil using a three-roll mill, and then added to the aforementioned mixture.

[0232] Simultaneously, an aqueous phase is prepared by mixing water, surfactant, glycerol, propanediol, and preservative in a Rayneri mixer at 85°C while stirring.

[0233] Then, the aqueous phase is added to the first mixture while stirring in a Rayneri mixer at 85°C.

[0234] Cool the combined product to ambient temperature and place it in a suitable container.

[0235] evaluation A homogeneous and stable composition can be obtained.

[0236] This is easily applied as a homogeneous deposit, is not very sticky, does not flow out of the area to be made up, and moves only slightly.

[0237] The deposit is present, thick, comfortable, and provides a moist feeling.

[0238] The deposit has luster and remains over a long period of time.

[0239] Example 4 Prepare the following composition:

[0240]

Table 6

[0241] Preparation method Mix octyldodecanol, dicaprylyl ether, and ethyl cellulose in a Rayneri mixer while stirring at 85 °C until a homogeneous mixture is obtained.

[0242] Simultaneously, prepare the aqueous phase by mixing water, surfactant, dye, glycerol, and preservative in a Rayneri mixer while stirring at 85 °C.

[0243] Then, add the aqueous phase to the first mixture while stirring in a Rayneri mixer at 85 °C.

[0244] Cool the mixture to ambient temperature and place it in a suitable container.

[0245] Evaluation Translucent (measurement of percentage of light transmission using Turbiscan Lab ; Formulaction), a homogeneous and stable composition is obtained.

[0246] This is easily applied as a homogeneous deposit, is not very sticky, does not flow out of the area to be made up, and moves only slightly.

[0247] The deposits are present, thick, comfortable, and provide a feeling of moisture.

[0248] The deposits are glossy and persist for a long time.

[0249] Comparative Example 5 Prepare the following composition:

[0250] [Table 7]

[0251] Preparation method Octyldodecanol, trimethylsiloxyphenyl dimethicone, and ethylcellulose are mixed in a Rayneri mixer while stirring at 85°C until a homogeneous mixture is obtained.

[0252] Simultaneously, an aqueous phase is prepared by mixing water, surfactant, dye, and preservative in a Rayneri mixer at 85°C while stirring.

[0253] Then, the aqueous phase is added to the first mixture while stirring in a Rayneri mixer at 85°C.

[0254] Allow the mixture to cool to ambient temperature and place it in a suitable container.

[0255] evaluation The resulting mixture is a homogeneous water-in-oil composition.

[0256] The application of the composition according to the present invention (for example, according to Example 1) is considerably more difficult: it is more viscous and resistant during application (this composition is said to have "braking properties"). Furthermore, the resulting deposit is sticky and shiny, but also greasy.

Claims

1. A composition in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion, - with ethylcellulose; - Saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C １０ ~C ２６ Selected from fatty alcohols, at 25°C and atmospheric pressure (1.013 × 10⁻⁶). ５ A first non-volatile oil that is liquid at Pa) and at least one first non-volatile oil; - Ethers of formula ROR', carbonates of formula RO(CO)OR', (wherein the formulas R and R' groups may be the same or different, saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched hydrocarbon system C ３ ~C １６ (representing the base); and also selected from mixtures thereof, at 25°C and atmospheric pressure (1.013 × 10⁻¹⁰ ５ A second non-volatile hydrocarbon oil that is liquid at Pa; - At least one first nonionic hydrocarbon surfactant, A composition comprising the above, characterized in that the content of the ethylcellulose is at least 6% by mass with respect to the total mass of the composition.

2. The composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the content of the ethylcellulose is 8% to 15% by mass with respect to the total mass of the composition.

3. The composition according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the water content is 5% to 30% by mass with respect to the total mass of the composition.

4. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the first non-volatile oil is selected from lauryl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, 2-hexyldecyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, and mixtures thereof.

5. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the content of the first non-volatile oil is in the range of 20% to 60% by mass with respect to the total mass of the composition.

6. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that the second non-volatile hydrocarbon oil is selected from dicaprylyl ether, dipropyl carbonate, diethylhexyl carbonate, dicaprylyl carbonate, C14-15 dialkyl carbonate, and mixtures thereof.

7. - Hydroxylated or non-hydroxylated vegetable oils; castor oil ethyl ester; - A hydroxylated ester oil having at least one linear or branched, saturated, unsaturated or aromatic ester functional group comprising 1 to 4 ester functional groups containing at least 10 carbon atoms; - Monounsaturated or polyunsaturated acid dimers; liquid polyesters derived from the reaction of fatty acids containing 16 to 22 carbon atoms; - those mixtures The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that it may contain an ester-type nonvolatile hydrocarbon oil, selected from, which is liquid at 25°C.

8. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that the content of ester-type nonvolatile hydrocarbon oil is in the range of 0.1% by mass to 5% by mass with respect to the total mass of the composition.

9. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8, characterized in that the total content of the second non-volatile hydrocarbon oil and, if present, the ester-type non-volatile hydrocarbon oil is in the range of 10% to 30% by mass with respect to the total mass of the composition.

10. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9, characterized in that the first nonionic hydrocarbon surfactant is selected from sucrose esters; sorbitan esters; monoglycerol-modified or polyglycerol-modified nonionic fatty acid esters; and mixtures thereof.

11. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 10, characterized in that the content of the first nonionic hydrocarbon surfactant is in the range of 1% by mass to 7% by mass with respect to the total mass of the composition.

12. Saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched carbon atoms containing 2 to 6 hydroxyl groups. ２ ~C ８ The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 11, characterized in that it may contain at least one liquid polyol selected from compounds.

13. C １ to C ５ monohydric alcohol, C ３ to C ４ ketone and C ２ to C ４ The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 12, characterized in that it may contain at least one water-soluble solvent selected from aldehyde, and also mixtures thereof.

14. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 13, characterized in that the amount of the aqueous phase corresponds to 5% to 40% by mass with respect to the mass of the composition; and the aqueous phase means water, a water-soluble solvent and / or a liquid polyol.

15. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 14, characterized in that it may contain at least one anionic surfactant in a content not exceeding 1% by mass relative to the mass of the composition.

16. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 15, characterized by comprising at least one colorant selected from pigments, pearlescent luminescent agents, water-soluble dyes, lipid-soluble dyes, and mixtures thereof.

17. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 16, characterized in that it may contain at least one volatile oil.

18. A method for applying makeup and / or care to a human keratin substance, comprising applying the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 17.

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