Cosmetic compositions and methods
The method enhances cosmetic compositions by optimizing pigment saturation and dispersion, ensuring high color payoff, long-lasting properties, and comfort through pre-dispersion and grinding techniques combined with film-forming agents and waxes.
Patent Information
- Authority / Receiving Office
- JP · JP
- Patent Type
- Patents
- Current Assignee / Owner
- ELC MANAGEMENT LLC
- Filing Date
- 2022-07-27
- Publication Date
- 2026-06-02
AI Technical Summary
Conventional cosmetic compositions with high pigment loads face challenges in processing, often sacrificing moisturizing and long-lasting properties, and struggle with incomplete pigment saturation and dispersion.
A method involving pre-dispersion of solid microparticles in a liquid component, followed by grinding to a specific particle size, and combining with film-forming agents and waxes to create a composition with optimized pigment saturation and long-lasting properties.
The method results in cosmetic compositions that provide high color payoff, are feather-free, non-bleeding, and fade-resistant, with immediate and long-lasting hydration, while maintaining a lightweight and comfortable feel.
Smart Images

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Abstract
Description
[Technical Field]
[0001] (Cross-reference of related applications) This application claims priority to U.S. Provisional Application No. 63 / 226,710, filed on 28 July 2021, and U.S. Non-Provisional Application No. 17 / 873,434, filed on 26 July 2022.
[0002] (Field of invention) This disclosure generally relates to processing cosmetic compositions having a high pigment load, and more specifically to processing cosmetic compositions with a high pigment load that have long-lasting properties. [Background technology]
[0003] Cosmetic compositions that offer high pigment loads can be difficult to process. Conventional cosmetic compositions typically sacrifice moisturizing and long-lasting properties when high pigment loads are incorporated into the composition. In addition, conventional cosmetic compositions may not be able to sufficiently saturate pigments, which may be in powder form, and may not be able to completely disperse the pigments throughout the cosmetic composition. Based on the above, there is a continuing need for cosmetic compositions and processing methods that can deliver high pigment loads without the drawbacks of limited shelf life, drying time, and low payoff. [Overview of the Initiative]
[0004] Embodiments of this disclosure generally provide cosmetic compositions with high pigment loads and methods for processing them. Embodiments of this disclosure may provide cosmetic compositions having comfort and long-lasting attributes. Compositions according to embodiments of this disclosure may provide high color payoff in a single swipe, given the high pigment load for color-saturated shades. They may be long-lasting, feather-free, non-bleeding, and fade-resistant, and may provide immediate and long-lasting hydration. Optimized pigment saturation combined with natural film-forming agents and wax complex blends may provide comfort during application and high-performance comfort.
[0005] Cosmetic compositions may be in multiple product forms, including, but are not limited to, blush, eyeshadow, face powder, lipstick, lip gloss, concealer, hot pore emulsion, anhydrous hot pore system, and other similar compositions. These product forms may be used in sun protection factor (SPF) product forms as in embodiments of this disclosure. These product forms may deliver high levels of pigments and powders that can provide super-saturated color adhesion in a single swipe. These compositions may have a lightweight feel and may be non-caking, non-pilling, and non-drying with comfort. Processing methods may be applicable to product forms, including, but are not limited to, blush, eyeshadow, face powder, lipstick, highlighter, SPF forms, and other similar compositions. Furthermore, cosmetic compositions and methods thereof may be provided in product forms, including, but are not limited to, pencils, sticks, pots, and other similar compositions.
[0006] Embodiments of the present disclosure may provide a method for preparing a cosmetic composition, comprising a pre-dispersion step of mixing one or more solid microparticles in a liquid component amounting to at least 35% by weight of the cosmetic composition, wherein the one or more solid microparticles include pigments, powders, and fillers, and the liquid component comprises one or more emollients in about 29-42% by weight of the cosmetic composition and one or more wetting agents in 0.25-5% by weight of the cosmetic composition. The liquid component may further comprise one or more film-forming agents in 0.5-10% by weight, 0.5-1% by weight of vitamin E, 2-3% by weight of copolymer blocks, 1-2% by weight of clay, and 1-2% by weight of silica. The one or more solid microparticles may completely saturate the liquid component, or the one or more solid microparticles may be completely dispersed when forming the cosmetic composition. The method may also comprise a grinding step of grinding the cosmetic composition until the particles have a size of less than about 12 microns or about 7 hegman units. The method may further include, in a complete bulking step, mixing the pulverized cosmetic composition with one or more of the following: one or more emollients, one or more humectants, one or more waxes, one or more film-forming agents, and one or more humectants. The method may also include heating the cosmetic composition to about 95 degrees Celsius.
[0007] Other embodiments of the present disclosure may provide a cosmetic composition comprising one or more solid microparticles, at least one of a dispersant, a wetting agent, or a mixture thereof, at least one film-forming agent, and at least one major carrier. The composition may comprise about 35 to 50% by weight of one or more solid microparticles, about 0.25 to 5% by weight of at least one of a dispersant, a wetting agent, or a mixture thereof, about 0.5 to 10% by weight of at least one film-forming agent, and about 35% by weight of at least one major carrier. The composition may further comprise at least 35% by weight of one or more solid microparticles, at least 0.25% by weight of at least one of a dispersant, a wetting agent, or a mixture thereof, at least 0.50% by weight of at least one film-forming agent, at least 5% by weight of one or more wax-related components, and at least 0.25% by weight of one or more humectants. The one or more solid microparticles may be selected from the group consisting of pigments, powders, fillers, and mixtures thereof. One or more solid microparticles may be surface-treated to provide a shear-resistant composition. The primary carrier may be selected from one or more long-chain fatty alcohol solutions, oils, esters, and emollients. The cosmetic composition provides a supersaturated color adhesion when applied to the user, and this supersaturated color adhesion may provide at least 70% opacity. [Modes for carrying out the invention]
[0008] Embodiments of this disclosure generally provide high-pigment-load cosmetic compositions and methods for processing them, which have comfort and long-lasting properties. Compositions according to embodiments of this disclosure may provide high color payoff with a single swipe. Compositions may be long-lasting, feather-free, non-bleeding, and fade-resistant, and may provide immediate and long-lasting hydration. Optimized pigment saturation combined with natural film-forming agents and wax complex blends may provide comfort during application and high-performance comfort.
[0009] Compositions according to embodiments of the present disclosure may contain solid fine particles, which may be pigments, powders, fillers, and / or mixtures thereof, at a level of 20-50%, more preferably 30-50%, and at least 35%.
[0010] Cosmetic compositions according to embodiments of the present disclosure may provide a high pigment load. It should be understood that in some embodiments of the present disclosure, the high pigment load may be at least 45% by weight of the composition. It should also be understood that the high pigment load may be less than 45% by weight or more than 45% by weight of the cosmetic composition without departing from the present disclosure.
[0011] The particulate material may contain a variety of organic and / or inorganic pigments. Organic pigments may generally be of various aromatic types, including azo, indigoid, triphenylmethane, antroquinone, and xanthine dyes, and are generally designated as D&C and FD&C blue, brown, green, orange, red, yellow, etc. Organic pigments may generally contain insoluble metal salts of certified color additives, known as Lakes. Inorganic pigments may include iron oxide, ultramarine, chromium, chromium hydroxide colors, and mixtures thereof. Iron oxides of red, blue, yellow, brown, black, and mixtures thereof may be used.
[0012] If the composition may contain a mixture of pigment and powder, a preferred range is approximately 0.01 to 75% pigment and 0.1 to 75% powder by weight based on the total weight of the composition. The pigment may be surface-treated with compounds containing, but are not limited to, isopropyl titanium triisostearate (ITT), trityl tetrazole bromomethyl biphenyl (TTBB2), silane, and / or dimethicone. The powder and fillers may be selected from, but are not limited to, bentonite hectorite, silica, or compounds containing BPD-500, mica, and / or barium sulfate.
[0013] The particulate material may be a colored or colorless (e.g., white) uncolored powder. Suitable non-colored powders include, but are not limited to, bismuth oxychloride, mica titanide, fumed silica, spherical silica, polymethyl methacrylate, pulverized teflon, boron nitride, acrylate copolymer, aluminum silicate, aluminum starch octenyl succinate, bentonite, calcium silicate, cellulose, chalk, corn starch, diatomaceous earth, fuller's earth, glyceryl starch, hectorite, hydrated silica, kaolin, magnesium aluminum silicate, magnesium trisilicate, maltodextrin, montmorillonite, microcrystalline cellulose, rice starch, silica, talc, mica, titanium dioxide, zinc laurate, zinc myristate, zinc rosinate, alumina, attapulgite, calcium carbonate, calcium silicate, dextran, kaolin, nylon, silylated silica, silk powder, sericite, soy flour, tin oxide, titanium hydroxide, trimagnesium phosphate, walnut shell powder, and / or mixtures thereof. The aforementioned powders may be surface-treated, either alone or in combination, with compounds containing, but not limited to, lecithin, amino acids, mineral oil, silicone, and / or various other agents, thereby coating the powder surface and making the particles inherently more lipophilic.
[0014] The compositions according to embodiments of the present disclosure may comprise one or more dispersants that can be added independently of solid particles or in the form of a colloidal dispersion of particles. The dispersants can protect the dispersed particles from aggregation or coagulation. The concentration of the dispersant commonly used to adequately disperse solid particles (without coagulation) and, in particular, to stabilize a colloidal dispersion of particles, may be in the range of 0.3 to 5 mg / m², preferably 0.5 to 4 mg / m², on the particle surface. The dispersant may be a surfactant, oligomer, polymer, or mixture thereof having one or more functional groups that have a high affinity for the particle surface to be dispersed. In particular, they may be physically or chemically bonded to the particle surface for dispersion. These dispersants may also have at least one functional group that is compatible with or soluble in a continuous medium. In particular, esters of polyhydroxy acid-12-stearic acid, for example, poly(12-hydroxystearic acid) stearate with a molecular weight of approximately 750 g / mol, for example, the one sold by Avecia under the name Solsperse 21,000; esters of polyhydroxy-12-stearic acid with polyols, for example, glycerol or diglycerin, for example, polyglyceryl-2 dipolyhydroxystearate (CTFA name) (or poly(12-hydroxystearate)diglycerol) sold by HENKEL under the reference name Dehymuls PGPH; or alternatively, poly(12-hydroxystearic acid), for example, the one sold by Uniqema under the reference name Arlacel P100; and mixtures thereof can be used.
[0015] Other dispersants that may be used in compositions according to embodiments of the present disclosure include, but are not limited to, quaternary ammonium derivatives of polycondensed fatty acid 17,000 sold by Avecia, and / or polydimethylsiloxane / oxypropylene mixtures such as those sold by Dow Corning under the reference names DC2-5185 and DC2-5225. Poly-12-dihydroxystearic acid and esters of polyhydroxy-12-stearic acid can be used in hydrocarbon or fluorinated media, while oxyethylene / oxypropylene-dimethylsiloxane mixtures can be used in silicone media.
[0016] At least one other dispersing and wetting agent may be included in the embodiments of this disclosure at a level of 0.25 to 5%. This may include, but is not limited to, surfactants comprising polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate, polyglyceryl-6 polyricinoleate, lecithin, sorbitan sesquioleate, and / or polyhydroxystearic acid.
[0017] The film-forming agent may be included at a level of 0.50 to 10%, but is not limited to these levels. It may be selected from compounds containing dextrin isostearate / isostearic acid and / or PPG-51 / SMDI copolymer. In addition to its film-forming ability, dextrin isostearate may exhibit wetting properties and color-enhancing properties.
[0018] Examples of film-forming polymers include organosiloxane resins containing combinations of R3S1O1 / 2 "M" units, R2S1O "D" units, RS1O3 / 2 "T" units, and S1O2 "Q" units in ratios to each other that satisfy the relation RnSiO(4_ny2) (wherein n is a value of 1.0 to 1.50 and R is methyl). In some embodiments of this disclosure, small amounts of silanol or alkoxy functional groups, up to 5%, may be present in the resin structure as a result of processing. The organosiloxane resin must be solid at about 25°C and must have a molecular weight range of about 1,000 to about 10,000 grams / mol. The resin may be soluble in organic solvents or volatile carriers such as toluene, xylene, isoparaffin, and cyclosiloxane, indicating that the resin is not sufficiently crosslinked to the extent that it is insoluble in volatile carriers. Particularly preferred are resins containing repeating monofunctional or R3SiOiy2 "M" units and tetrafunctional or S1O2 "Q" units, otherwise also known as "MQ" resins, as disclosed in Krzysik's U.S. Patent No. 5,330,747 issued on 19 July 1994, which is incorporated herein by reference. In this disclosure, the ratio of "M" to "Q" functional units may preferably be about 0.7, and the value of n may be 1.2. The organosiloxane resins described above are commercially available, such as the trimethylsiloxysilicate / cyclomethicone D5 blend available from GE Toshiba Silicone, Wacker 803 and 804 available from Wacker Silicones Corporation (Adrian, Michigan), KP545 from Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd., and GE1170-002 from General Electric Company. In this disclosure, by having a film-forming polymer primarily in the second layer, the film-forming polymer can be present at a higher concentration in localized areas, thereby forming a film with higher film strength compared to the rest of the composition when applied to the skin. Such concentrated areas of high film strength can provide improved adhesion of the entire composition to the skin.In other words, by providing the film-forming polymer mainly to the second layer, the amount of film-forming polymer in the entire composition can be reduced, or if the same amount of film-forming polymer is incorporated into the second layer, an overall composition with improved adhesion can be obtained. In a preferred embodiment, the content level of the film-forming polymer in the second layer may be about 0.1% to about 20%, preferably about 0.5% to about 10%, and more preferably about 1% to about 8%.
[0019] Examples of primary carriers include, but are not limited to, long-chain fatty alcohol solutions such as octyldodecanol, oleyl alcohol, and / or squalene. Oils such as castor oil, caprylic / capric triglyceride, jojoba oil, and / or hydrogenated variants may also be included, but are not limited to these. Alkyl esters, esters including isononyl isononanoate, cetearyl isononanoate, and / or ethylhexyl isononanoate may also be included in compositions according to embodiments of the present disclosure, but are not limited to these. Emollients such as olive squalane and / or natural butters including shea butter and / or kokum butter may also be incorporated into compositions according to embodiments of the present disclosure, but are not limited to these.
[0020] In stick form, the compositions according to embodiments of the present disclosure may include structuring agents such as paraffin waxes including, but not limited to, microcrystalline, polyethylene, beeswax, and gel stabilizers (such as, but not limited to, butyl stearate / butylene / ethylene, styrene, copoly / ethylene / propylene / styrene, and / or copolymer / dibutyllauroylglutamide) at levels of 5.0 - 20%. Optional ingredients may include, but are not limited to, antioxidants such as tocopheryl acetate and / or butylated hydroxytoluene (BHT), and / or humectants in the range of 0.25 - 5% such as, but not limited to, sodium hyaluronate / hydrogenated castor oil and / or phytosteryl / octyldodecyl lauroyl glutamate. Processing of this formulation type may include incorporating a high percentage of the formulation liquid base into the milled material. This may enable complete pigment / powder saturation and development in embodiments of the present disclosure in combination with a higher percentage of multiple wetting agents (surfactants).
[0021] Preferred procedures for preparing cosmetic compositions according to embodiments of the present disclosure may include a predispersion stage, a milling stage, and a formulation extender stage, as described herein.
[0022] Predispersion stage
[0023] [Table 1] 1 Neossance® squalane available from Centerchem Inc. Used as a skin softener. 2 Eutanol® G available from BASF Care Creations. A long fatty chain alcohol used as an emollient. 3Polyol prepolymer-14 available from Barnet Products Inc. and Penederm Inc. A copolymer of PPG-51 and saturated methylenediphenyl diisocyanate used for holding / conditioning. 4 Plurol® Diisotearique CG, available from Gattefosse, was used as a surfactant. 5 Hexagrin PR-15, available from Nikko Chemicals Co., Ltd., was used as a surfactant. 6 Versagel® S1000 is available from Penreco®. Versagel contains hydrogenated polyisobutene (and) butyl stearate (and) isostearyl alcohol (and) butylene / ethylene / styrene copolymer (and) ethylene / propylene / styrene copolymer (and) dibutyl lauroyl glutamide. 7 Bentone® 38 VCG, available from Elementis. Used for bonding. 8 Spheron 20MB, available from Presperse Inc., was used for absorption.
[0024] A first mixture containing squalane, octyldodecanol, PPG-51 / SMDI copolymer, polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate, polyglyceryl-6 polyricinoleate, and vitamin E can be mixed in a first auxiliary agent using a high-shear disperser or mixer, such as a Cowles or Scott mixer. The components can be mixed at room temperature to obtain a uniform distribution.
[0025] Octyldodecanol can be inserted into the second auxiliary agent using a propeller mixer. The mixer may be heated above the dropping point of octyldodecanol used in the embodiments of this disclosure, up to about 95°C, or up to 10°C. The mixer may be turned on to the operating state. At about 95°C, the copolymer block can be added to the second auxiliary agent to prepare the second mixture or premix. Mixing may be carried out for about 30 minutes, or until the mixture is uniformly distributed and the color is clear. It should be understood that the temperature may reach up to 99°C without departing from this disclosure.
[0026] In a high-shear disperser or mixer, the second mixture from the second additive may be added to the first mixture in the first additive. The first and second mixtures can be mixed for about 5 minutes, or until the composition is uniformly distributed.
[0027] Disteardimonium hectorite and silica may be added in stages, and thoroughly mixed to achieve a uniform distribution over a sufficient period of time. The sweeping and dispersion of the pigments can be carried out in the composition for about 30 minutes. The mixer may then be stopped so that the composition can be scraped off the blades. The composition may then be mixed for a further 10 minutes.
[0028] By mixing the components in Table 1, the pigment can be sufficiently saturated and uniformly distributed throughout the cosmetic composition. The air trapped between the particles of the cosmetic composition can be filled with oil, thereby changing the refractive index.
[0029] Grinding stage The composition can be transferred from the pre-dispersion stage to the ball mill via a pump. Using a ball mill (e.g., by Fryma Karuma MS12), the grinding stage can be initiated by effectively mixing the composition to produce a dispersion having a particle size of less than about 12 microns or a Hegman reading of about 7 or greater. It should be understood that the ball mill can have a rotor speed of about 1800 revolutions per minute (RPM). It should also be understood that the flow rate of the cosmetic composition within the ball mill can be about 300 - 1,000 grams per minute (g / min). The bead material used in the ball mill can be zirconium oxide, which can be known as fused zirconium oxide or zirconia silica. The size of the bead material utilized in the ball mill can be about 0.8 - 1.0 millimeters (mm). In embodiments of the present disclosure, it should be understood that a sufficient time to achieve a uniform mass of the premixed components can be about 15 minutes to 30 minutes. It should be further understood that the time required to sufficiently mix the components of the cosmetic composition can be determined by the selected carrier and pigment. The pigment dispersion according to embodiments of the present disclosure can range from fluidity to paste-like. In some embodiments of the present disclosure, up to 60% of the pigment (20 - 60%) can be present in the grinding stage.
[0030] Blend extender stage
[0031] [Table 2] 9 Performalene® PL available from New Phase Technologies 10 Multiwax W-835 available from Sonneborn LLC; Ozokerite Wax Pastilles 1021P available from Strahl and Pitsch 11 Unifilma Hvy available from Chiba Flour Milling 12Eldew PS-203 is available from Ajinomoto Co., Inc. 13 Hyacolor is available from Bloomage Biotechnology Corporation.
[0032] The cosmetic composition formed during the grinding stage may be transferred to a heated container or a conventional propeller mixer. In embodiments of this disclosure, it should be understood that a propeller mixer may be used for thin grinds, while a sweep mixer may be used for thicker grinds.
[0033] Squalane, octyldodecanol, and polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate may be added to the container and heated to approximately 95°C. It should be understood that the temperature may reach a maximum of 99°C without departing from the present disclosure.
[0034] Polyethylene and microcrystalline wax may be added at a temperature of approximately 80°C. It should be understood that the temperature may be greater than or less than 80°C without departing from this disclosure. Dextrin isostearate or a film-forming agent may then be added and mixed for about 15 minutes until the composition is uniformly distributed. Octyldodecyl phytosteryl / lauroyl glutamate and sodium hyaluronate may then be added. The composition may be mixed for about 5 minutes until the composition is uniformly distributed. The composition may be discharged and molded in a filler.
[0035] In embodiments of this disclosure, the cosmetic composition may be fluid and may be pourable into a pot or stick. It should be understood that in some embodiments of this disclosure, the cosmetic composition may form an emulsion-based system. It should also be understood that the cosmetic composition may have any form, including, but is not limited to, eye, cheek, face, lip, and / or other product forms.
[0036] Cosmetic compositions may provide supersaturated color adhesion. For example, a single application, swipe, or use of a cosmetic composition may provide a pigment load high enough to remain on the makeup artist for up to approximately 12 hours. Supersaturated color adhesion may provide long-lasting cosmetic compositions that cannot be inadvertently removed through normal activities. Normal activities include, but are not limited to, eating, drinking, and / or friction against fabrics. Cosmetic compositions may provide pigments with a viscosity of up to 96,000 centipoises (cps). Without departing from this disclosure, it should be understood that the viscosity of pigments may be greater than or less than 96,000 cps.
[0037] Optivity test measurement Opacity can be evaluated by a drawdown method using 2-mil drawdown bars on a black and white Leneta chart. An average of 5 drawdowns can be performed for each hue or pigment color. In embodiments of this disclosure, the opacity of the cosmetic composition may be about 90–110%. It should be understood that a pigment having a caramel hue or color may provide an opacity of about 100.25%. It should also be understood that a pigment having a deep red hue may provide an opacity of about 97.09%.
[0038] Breaking point measurement The fracture point of lipsticks formed according to the above formulation was measured using a Cavalla Model #1009 (manufactured by Cavalla Inc. (Hackensack, NJ)). Freshly made lipsticks were incubated at 25°C for 24 hours before testing. The lipstick cap was removed, the lipstick was rotated to its end, and placed in the holder along with the lipstick case. The Cavalla gauge needle was set to zero, and the Cavalla motor was turned on. After the lipstick fractured laterally, the fracture point was read directly from the black needle dot on the Cavalla scale. The Cavalla range is approximately 8 to 18 units or ounces.
[0039] An exploratory clinical trial was conducted to investigate the effect of wax levels (if any) on the perception of resistance and / or texture. A modified pigment formulation (MSL4617), a self-standing satin finish lipstick with 40% pigment, was used as the reference formulation. MSL4617 was compared to a self-standing satin finish lipstick (MSL3880-1) to obtain feedback on the effect of pigments on the formulation. Although wax levels did not change, different pigments were evaluated in terms of application, texture, and longevity.
[0040] A comparison of the formulations is shown in Table 3 below.
[0041] [Table 3]
[0042] [Table 4]
[0043] Both formulations were found to apply uniformly to the lips and stay in place upon application; however, MSL4617 performed better than MSL3880-1, was easier to apply, and received a preferred score for smoother gliding over the lips. The consistency and application of MSL4617 were rated as just right compared to the consistency of MSL3880-1. MSL4617 was found to be easier to apply and control during application, and it was found to have less drag than MSL3880-1. Furthermore, while both formulations were perceived as smooth, adjusting the pigment had a positive impact on the perceived consistency. In addition, the difference in pigment had a positive impact on the perceived performance lifetime within the gain margin for hold / appearance. More specifically, MSL4617 maintained a higher and more preferred all-day rating than MSL3880-1. MSL4617 outperformed MSL3880-1 in several retention-related attributes, including maintaining appearance throughout application, keeping color true to its original state throughout application, and longevity. Pigment modifications within MSL4617 appeared to result in easier application with less resistance, a lighter feel, more optimal consistency, a positive impact on performance lifetime, most notably maintaining a higher score within the margin of retention / appearance benefits, higher satisfaction due to maintaining its appearance from the initial application, and a slightly higher perceived satisfaction with the overall product after 8 hours of application. Therefore, formulation modifications in MSL4617 positively contributed to perceived ease of application, control during application, product consistency, retention, and sustained overall performance.
[0044] Exploratory clinical trials were conducted to perform a complete comparison of pigment loads (40% vs. 35% vs. 30%). Here, the modified pigment formulation with a 40% pigment load (MSL4617) was used as the baseline. The MSL3892 formulation with a 35% pigment load and the MSL3880-5 formulation with a 30% pigment load were also used. A summary of the formulations is shown in Table 4 below.
[0045] [Table 5]
[0046] [Table 6]
[0047] Each of these formulations was found to have a higher-than-average score for ultra-high payoff. Neither a 5% nor a 10% reduction in pigment load was particularly significant in terms of color payoff perception. A 10% lower pigment load and formulation distinction for MSL3880-5 appeared to favorably increase the perception of comfort and moisture retention. Differences in formulation and / or pigment load had different effects on the perception of longevity. A 10% lower pigment load and formulation distinction for MSL3880-5 appeared to increase the perception of bleeding / feathering in the product, while a 5% lower pigment load and formulation distinction for MSL3892 appeared to negatively affect the perception of even and uniform color and generally longevity. While satisfaction with the transfer level was slightly higher with a 10% reduction in pigment load and formulation distinction for MSL3880-5, pigment load and formulation distinction did not appear to have a significant impact on the overall perception of transfer resistance.
[0048] Despite differences in pigment load and formulation, all formulations generally perform similarly within a very high payoff profit margin. All formulations perform similarly over 4 hours for most hold / appearance-related attributes. MSL4617 and MSL3892 also perform similarly in comfort-related attributes. MSL3880-5 scores more favorably within this profit margin, likely due to the formulation difference / 10% reduced pigment load. MSL3880-5 achieved a slightly more favorable rating regarding smooth gliding on the lips, but all formulations performed similarly in terms of application ratings. Differences were perceived between formulations. The 10% difference in pigment load and formulation appears to be advantageous in that it provides a more ideal perception of comfort, although it slightly increases the perception of bleeding / feathering (which can potentially be mitigated by the use of secondary products, e.g., lip liner). Reducing the pigment load by 5% through formulation modifications did not affect the comfort margin and appeared to cause performance issues related to hold that were not previously observed in either the 30% or 40% formulations. In general, the performance of MSL3892 appears to degrade over 6 hours across all benefit margins (fade, high color payoff, hold / appearance). All formulations performed similarly overall within the ultra-high payoff margin, and pigment load and formulation differences did not strongly affect overall performance within the fade resistance margin.
[0049] Another exploratory clinical study evaluated pigment load repeats between the MSL4617 reference formulation (40% pigment load) and the MSL3880-5 formulation (30% pigment load). Overall, the panel recognized the formulation difference because the 30% pigment load was found to be less dry. The 10% difference in pigment load did not affect coverage or the perception of color impact. Both formulations performed similarly within the ultra-high payoff margin and across other possess-related attributes. Pigment load and formulation distinction did not strongly affect performance within the transfer resistance margin, although satisfaction with transfer levels was slightly higher as the pigment load decreased. The 10% lower pigment load in MSL3880-5 appeared to favorably increase the perception of comfort and moisturizing, but also increased the perception of bleeding / feathering in the product.
[0050] All percentages, parts, and proportions are based on the total weight of the compositions disclosed herein, unless otherwise specified. All such weights relating to the listed components are based on their activity levels and, unless otherwise specified, do not include solvents or by-products that may be present in commercially available materials. When used herein, all molecular weights are weight-average molecular weights expressed as grams / moles unless otherwise stated.
[0051] Terms such as “comprising” mean that the list of elements may not be limited to those explicitly stated. The term “weight percent” may be expressed herein as “weight %.” Terms such as “long-lasting” refer to compositions of the Disclosure that are not readily removed by contact with other substances such as clothing or water. Long-lasting can be assessed by any method known in the art. For example, a composition may be assessed based on the amount of product remaining on the wearer’s skin or hair after several minutes or hours of application. For example, a composition may provide a long-lasting attribute if the majority of the product remains on the wearer’s skin or hair after several minutes or hours of application. Furthermore, the amount remaining on the wearer’s skin or hair can be compared to the amount transferred by other compositions, such as commercially available compositions. In preferred embodiments of the Disclosure, the composition is hardly removed from the skin or hair after several minutes or hours of application.
[0052] The term "pigment" refers to components including, but is not limited to, colorant components, complexes, powders, and / or fillers that can be surface-treated with, for example, isopropyl titanium triisostearate (ITT), trityltetrazol bromomethyl biphenyl (TTBB2), silane, and / or dimethicone. Pigments may also refer to, but are not limited to, components including bentonite, hectorite, silica, hexamethylene diisocyanate (HDI) / trimethylol hexyllactone crosspolymer and silica (BPD-500), mica, barium, and / or sulfates.
[0053] Terms such as "opacity" refer to the transparency or contrast ratio of a cosmetic composition. Higher opacity may correspond to a higher pigment load, thereby providing greater coverage to the makeup user of the cosmetic composition. Terms such as "supersaturated color adhesion" refer to the maximum level of liquid vehicle incorporation in the pigment structure resulting from complete wetting by chemical and mechanical means.
[0054] The dimensions and values disclosed herein should not be understood as being strictly limited to the exact numerical values listed. Instead, unless otherwise specified, each such dimension is intended to mean both the listed value and the functionally equivalent range surrounding that value. For example, a dimension disclosed as "40 mm" is intended to mean "approximately 40 mm".
[0055] While the present disclosure and its merits have been described in detail, it should be understood that various changes, substitutions, and modifications can be made herein without departing from the spirit and scope of the disclosure as defined by the appended claims. Furthermore, the scope of this application is not intended to be limited to specific embodiments of the processes, machines, manufactures, compositions, means, methods, and steps described herein. Existing or subsequently developed processes, machines, manufactures, compositions, means, methods, or steps that perform substantially the same function or achieve substantially the same results as the corresponding embodiments described herein can be utilized in accordance with this disclosure, as will be readily apparent to those skilled in the art. Accordingly, the appended claims are intended to include such processes, machines, manufactures, compositions, means, methods, or steps within their scope. Further embodiments of the present invention are shown below. [Embodiment 1] A method for preparing a cosmetic composition, The pre-dispersion step includes mixing one or more solid fine particles, at least 35% by weight of the cosmetic composition, with the liquid component. The one or more solid fine particles include a pigment, powder, and filler. A method wherein the liquid component comprises one or more emollients in an amount of about 29 to 42% by weight of the cosmetic composition and one or more wetting agents in an amount of 0.25 to 5% by weight of the cosmetic composition. [Embodiment 2] The aforementioned liquid component One or more film-forming agents in an amount of 0.5 to 10% by weight, 0.5-1% by weight of vitamin E, A copolymer block of 2-3% by weight, 1-2% by weight of clay, The method according to Embodiment 1, further comprising 1-2% by weight of silica. [Embodiment 3] The method according to Embodiment 1, wherein one or more solid fine particles completely saturate the liquid component and are completely dispersed when forming the cosmetic composition. [Embodiment 4] The method according to Embodiment 1, further comprising grinding the cosmetic composition in the grinding step until the particles have a size of about 7 Hegman units or less than about 12 microns. [Embodiment 5] In the final bulking stage, the pulverized cosmetic composition is as follows: The method according to Embodiment 4, further comprising mixing with one or more emollients, one or more humectants, one or more waxes, one or more film-forming agents, and one or more moisturizers. [Embodiment 6] The method according to Embodiment 1, further comprising heating the cosmetic composition to approximately 95 degrees Celsius. [Embodiment 7] A cosmetic composition, One or more solid particles, At least one of a dispersant, a wetting agent, or a mixture thereof, At least one film-forming agent, A cosmetic composition comprising at least one main carrier. [Embodiment 8] Approximately 35-50% by weight of one or more solid particles, Approximately 0.25 to 5% by weight of the dispersant, the wetting agent, or at least one of the mixtures thereof, Approximately 0.5 to 10% by weight of the above-mentioned film-forming agent, The cosmetic composition according to Embodiment 7, comprising approximately 35% by weight of the at least one main carrier. [Embodiment 9] a. At least 35% by weight of one or more solid fine particles, b. At least 0.25% by weight of the dispersant, the wetting agent, or at least one of the mixtures thereof, c. At least 0.50% by weight of the at least one film-forming agent, d. At least 5% by weight of one or more wax-related components, e. The cosmetic composition according to Embodiment 7, comprising at least 0.25% by weight of one or more humectants. [Embodiment 10] The cosmetic composition according to Embodiment 7, wherein the one or more solid fine particles are selected from the group consisting of pigments, powders, fillers, and mixtures thereof. [Embodiment 11] The composition according to Embodiment 7, wherein one or more solid fine particles are surface-treated to provide a shear-resistant composition. [Embodiment 12] The composition according to Embodiment 7, wherein the main carrier is selected from one or more of long-chain fatty alcohol solutions, oils, esters, and emollients. [Embodiment 13] The composition according to Embodiment 7, wherein the cosmetic composition provides supersaturated color adhesion when applied to a user, and the supersaturated color adhesion provides at least 70% opacity.
Claims
1. A method for preparing a cosmetic composition, The pre-dispersion step includes mixing one or more solid fine particles, at least 35% by weight of the cosmetic composition, with the liquid component. The one or more solid fine particles include a pigment, powder, and filler. The liquid component comprises one or more emollients in an amount of 29 to 42% by weight of the cosmetic composition and one or more dispersants or wetting agents in an amount of 0.25 to 5% by weight of the cosmetic composition. The one or more dispersants or wetting agents include polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate, method.
2. The method according to claim 1, wherein the one or more dispersants or wetting agents further comprise one or more of polyglyceryl-6 polyricinoleate, lecithin, sorbitan sesquioleate, and polyhydroxystearic acid.
3. The pre-dispersion step is performed with respect to the weight of the cosmetic composition, One or more film-forming agents in an amount of 0.5 to 10%, 0.5-1% vitamin E and 2-3% copolymer block, 1-2% clay and The method according to claim 1, comprising mixing 1-2% silica with [another substance].
4. The method according to claim 1, wherein the one or more solid fine particles completely saturate the liquid component and are completely dispersed when forming the cosmetic composition.
5. The method according to claim 1, further comprising grinding the cosmetic composition in the grinding step until the particles have a size of 7 Hegman units or less than 12 microns.
6. In the final bulking stage, the pulverized cosmetic composition is as follows: The method according to claim 5, further comprising mixing with one or more emollients, one or more wetting agents, one or more waxes, one or more film-forming agents, and one or more humectants.
7. The method according to claim 1, further comprising heating the cosmetic composition to 95 degrees Celsius.
8. 35 to 50% by weight of one or more solid fine particles, 0.25 to 5% by weight of at least one of a dispersant, a wetting agent, or a mixture thereof, 0.5 to 10% by weight of at least one film-forming agent, A cosmetic composition comprising 35% by weight of at least one cosmetic-compatible carrier, A cosmetic composition comprising the dispersant, the wetting agent, or a mixture thereof, which contains polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate.
9. The cosmetic composition according to claim 8, wherein the dispersant, the wetting agent, or a mixture thereof further comprises one or more of polyglyceryl-6 polyricinoleate, lecithin, sorbitan sesquioleate, and polyhydroxystearic acid.
10. a. At least 35% by weight of one or more of the above solid fine particles, b. At least 0.25% by weight of the dispersant, the wetting agent, or at least one of the mixtures thereof, c. At least 0.50% by weight of the at least one film-forming agent, d. One or more waxes in an amount of at least 5% by weight, e. The cosmetic composition according to claim 8, comprising at least 0.25% by weight of one or more humectants.
11. The cosmetic composition according to claim 8, wherein the one or more solid fine particles are selected from the group consisting of pigments, powders, fillers, and mixtures thereof.
12. The composition according to claim 8, wherein one or more solid fine particles are surface-treated to provide a shear-resistant composition.
13. The composition according to claim 8, wherein the carrier acceptable as a cosmetic is selected from one or more of long-chain fatty alcohol solutions, oils, esters, and emollients.
14. The composition according to claim 8, which provides at least 70% opacity when applied to the skin.