Cosmetic composition for lips

Abstract

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition, preferably anhydrous, comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least: one or more organopolysiloxane elastomer(s) (preferably an organopolysiloxane elastomer carried on a first oil), a non-polar oil different from the first oil, and a polar wax, wherein the total content of organopolysiloxane elastomer active material(s) is equal to or greater than 7% by weight, preferably greater than 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Description

【Technical Field】 【0001】 The present invention relates to care and / or makeup compositions for the lips. 【Background Art】 【0002】 Lip care products and lip makeup products aimed at coloring, protecting, and / or coloring the lips are widely known. In particular, products for the lips are known in the form of liquids, semi-solids or solids (sticks) for glossy deposits or matte deposits on the lips, and in the case of makeup products, have good color retention. To impart a matte property, volatile oils and fillers are generally used, which affect the stability of the composition and the film deposit may have a dry appearance on the lips. 【0003】 Therefore, there is still a need to develop new lip care and / or makeup products, particularly solid products for obtaining a homogeneous, comfortable and matte deposit without drying of the lips. Consumers also desire a soft nature upon application, having an effect "like velvet". 【0004】 The present invention addresses such needs. In fact, the Applicant has developed a composition comprising a total content of organopolysiloxane elastomer active ingredient of at least 7% by weight, preferably at least 10% by weight, of the total composition and containing at least one non-polar oil and a polar wax in the oil phase. 【0005】 Surprisingly, the inventors have obtained a composition having the desired properties such as matte appearance, comfort and hydration upon application, with a very good stability, accompanied by a velvet-like deposit, although a high content of silicone compound (organopolysiloxane elastomer) is incompatible with the non-silicone compounds of the oil phase and on the other hand, the non-polar oil is incompatible with the polar wax. 【Summary of the Invention】 【0006】 According to the first embodiment, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least: One or more organopolysiloxane elastomers (preferably organopolysiloxane elastomers supported on the first oil), A non-polar oil, different from the first oil. Polar wax, A cosmetic composition containing, The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition in which the total content of organopolysiloxane elastomer active ingredients is 7% by weight or more, preferably 10% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition. 【0007】 The present invention also relates to a cosmetic method for caring for and / or making up the lips, comprising applying at least one layer of a composition according to the present invention to the lips. 【0008】 Detailed description of the present invention Therefore, the first object of the present invention is to provide at least: One or more organopolysiloxane elastomers (preferably organopolysiloxane elastomers supported on the first oil), A non-polar oil, different from the first oil. Polar wax, A cosmetic composition containing, The cosmetic composition contains an organopolysiloxane elastomer active ingredient in a total amount of 7% by weight or more, preferably 10% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition. 【0009】 According to certain preferred embodiments, the composition of the present invention is an anhydrous composition. 【0010】 The term “anhydrous” means, in particular, that water is preferably not intentionally added to the composition, but may be present in trace amounts in the various compounds used in the composition. Specifically, the compositions according to the present invention contain less than 4% by weight, preferably less than 3% by weight, more preferably less than 2% by weight, even more preferably less than 1% by weight, and even more preferably less than 0.5% by weight of water, or contain no water at all, based on the total weight of the composition. 【0011】 The compositions of the present invention are generally solid compositions. 【0012】 The term "solid" refers to a solid with a density of 30 Nm at a temperature of 20°C and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). -1 Larger, preferably 40 Nm -1 This refers to compositions having greater hardness. 【0013】 The hardness can be measured at 20°C by the so-called "butter wire" method, which involves cutting a cylindrically symmetrical product rod laterally by moving a 250 μm diameter hard metal wire relative to the stick at a speed of 60 mm / min. The hardness of the sample is expressed in gram force (gf) and can be measured using a texture analyzer such as the TAXT Plus Texture Analyser. Preferably, the obtained value will be between 140 and 190. 【0014】 The cosmetic composition of the present invention comprises a fatty phase or an oil phase. 【0015】 The term "oil phase" refers to oil or a mixture of oils that are miscible with each other. 【0016】 In the context of this invention, the term "oil" means a fatty body that is insoluble in water and is liquid at 25°C and atmospheric pressure. 【0017】 The composition of the present invention contains at least one first oil useful for transporting organopolysiloxane elastomers and a second oil different from the first oil. These oils are described below. 【0018】 Organopolysiloxane elastomer The composition of the present invention contains one or more organopolysiloxane elastomers with a total content of organopolysiloxane elastomer active ingredients of at least 7% by weight, preferably at least 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. 【0019】 In particular, the total content of organopolysiloxane elastomer active ingredients is more than 10% to 30% by weight, especially more than 10% to 20% by weight, based on the composition. 【0020】 The organopolysiloxane elastomer can be selected from the group consisting of organopolysiloxane elastomers supported on oil, organopolysiloxane elastomer powders optionally coated with silicone resin, and mixtures thereof. 【0021】 According to a specific embodiment of the present invention, the composition contains at least one organopolysiloxane elastomer supported on oil as described below. 【0022】 According to a specific preferred embodiment, the composition of the present invention contains an organopolysiloxane elastomer supported on at least one oil and an organopolysiloxane elastomer powder different from the organopolysiloxane elastomer supported on the oil, and the organopolysiloxane elastomer powder is either coated with silicone resin or not coated. 【0023】 By combining these specific elastomers, it becomes possible to obtain an adherent with a matte, comfortable (softness of the adherent, no dry feeling), velvety soft touch. 【0024】 These compounds and their respective contents will be described below. 【0025】 An organopolysiloxane elastomer supported on a first oil 【0026】 In the context of the present invention, the term "supported" means that the elastomer is carried in a composition that is stable at 20 °C for at least 24 hours in a form where it is pre-dispersed in at least the first oil, particularly in the form of a homogeneous mixture of elastomer particles dispersed in the first oil. Preferably, this elastomer is in the form of a gel in at least the first oil. 【0027】 The term "organopolysiloxane elastomer" or "silicone elastomer" shall mean a flexible and deformable organopolysiloxane having viscoelastic properties, particularly the integrity of a sponge or flexible sphere. Its elastic modulus shall be such that the material has the ability to resist deformation and limit stretching and contraction. This material can return to its original shape after being stretched. 【0028】 More specifically, this is a crosslinked silicone elastomer. 【0029】 The elastomer can be selected from non-emulsified elastomers or emulsified elastomers. Preferably, it is a non-emulsified elastomer. 【0030】 The term "non-emulsified" is defined as an organopolysiloxane elastomer that does not contain hydrophilic chains, particularly does not contain polyoxyalkylene units (especially polyoxyethylene or polyoxypropylene units) nor polyglyceryl units. 【0031】 Therefore, the organopolysiloxane elastomer can be obtained as follows: - In particular, in the presence of a platinum catalyst, a cross-linking addition reaction between a diorganopolysiloxane containing at least one hydrogen atom bonded to silicon and a diorganopolysiloxane having an ethylenically unsaturated group bonded to silicon; - Or, particularly in the presence of organotin, by crosslinking, hydrogenation, and condensation reactions between a diorganopolysiloxane having a hydroxyl-terminated group and a diorganopolysiloxane containing at least one hydrogen atom bonded to silicon; - Or, a crosslinking condensation reaction between a diorganopolysiloxane having a hydroxyl-terminated group and a hydrolyzable organopolysiloxane; - Or, by thermal crosslinking of organopolysiloxanes, particularly in the presence of an organic peroxide catalyst; - Or, by crosslinking organopolysiloxanes with high-energy radiation such as gamma rays, ultraviolet rays, or electron beams. 【0032】 Preferably, the organopolysiloxane elastomer is obtained by a crosslinking addition reaction of (A) a diorganopolysiloxane containing at least two hydrogen atoms, each bonded to silicon, and (B) a diorganopolysiloxane having at least two ethylenically unsaturated groups bonded to silicon, particularly in the presence of (C) a platinum catalyst. 【0033】 Organopolysiloxane elastomers can be obtained, in particular, by the reaction of dimethylpolysiloxane having dimethylvinylsiloxy-terminated groups with methylhydrogenpolysiloxane having trimethylsiloxy-terminated groups, in the presence of a platinum catalyst. 【0034】 Compound (A) is a base reagent for forming organopolysiloxane elastomers, and crosslinking is carried out by an addition reaction between compound (A) and compound (B) in the presence of catalyst (C). 【0035】 Compound (A) is an organopolysiloxane having at least two hydrogen atoms bonded to different silicon atoms in each molecule. 【0036】 Compound (A) may have any of the following molecular structures, particularly a linear, branched, or cyclic structure. 【0037】 Compound (A) may have a viscosity at 25°C in the range of 1 to 50,000 centistokes, particularly to facilitate miscibility with compound (B). The organic groups bonded to the silicon atoms of compound (A) may be alkyl groups, e.g., methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, octyl; substituted alkyl groups, e.g., 2-phenylpropyl, 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl; aryl groups, e.g., phenyl, tolyl, xylyl; substituted aryl groups, e.g., phenylethyl; and substituted monovalent hydrocarbon groups, e.g., epoxy groups, carboxylic acid ester groups, or mercapto groups. 【0038】 Compound (A) can be selected from methylhydrogen polysiloxane having a trimethylsiloxy-terminated group, dimethylsiloxane-methylhydrogen siloxane copolymer having a trimethylsiloxy-terminated group, and cyclic dimethylsiloxane-methylhydrogen siloxane copolymer. 【0039】 Compound (B) is advantageously a diorganopolysiloxane having at least two lower alkenyl groups (e.g., C2-C4); the lower alkenyl groups can be selected from vinyl, allyl, and propenyl groups. These lower alkenyl groups can be located at any position in the organopolysiloxane molecule, but preferably not at the ends of the organopolysiloxane molecule. Organopolysiloxane (B) can have branched, linear, cyclic, or reticular structures, but a linear structure is preferred. Compound (B) can have a viscosity ranging from liquid to rubbery. Preferably, compound (B) has a viscosity of at least 100 centistokes at 25°C. 【0040】 In addition to the alkenyl groups mentioned above, other organic groups bonded to the silicon atom in compound (B) may be alkyl groups, e.g., methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, or octyl; substituted alkyl groups, e.g., 2-phenylethyl, 2-phenylpropyl, or 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl; aryl groups, e.g., phenyl, tolyl, or xylyl; substituted aryl groups, e.g., phenylethyl; and substituted monovalent hydrocarbon groups, e.g., epoxy groups, carboxylic acid ester groups, or mercapto groups. 【0041】 Organopolysiloxane (B) can be selected from methylvinylpolysiloxane, methylvinylsiloxane-dimethylsiloxane copolymer, dimethylpolysiloxane having a dimethylvinylsiloxy-terminated group, dimethylsiloxane-methylphenylsiloxane copolymer having a dimethylvinylsiloxy-terminated group, dimethylsiloxane-diphenylsiloxane-methylvinylsiloxane copolymer having a dimethylvinylsiloxy-terminated group, dimethylsiloxane-methylvinylsiloxane copolymer having a trimethylsiloxy-terminated group, dimethylsiloxane-methylphenylsiloxane-methylvinylsiloxane copolymer having a trimethylsiloxy-terminated group, methyl(3,3,3-trifluoropropyl)polysiloxane having a dimethylvinylsiloxy-terminated group, and dimethylsiloxane-methyl(3,3,3-trifluoropropyl)siloxane copolymer having a dimethylvinylsiloxy-terminated group. 【0042】 In particular, organopolysiloxane elastomers can be obtained by the reaction of dimethylpropylsiloxane having a dimethylvinylsiloxy-terminated group with methylhydrogenpolysiloxane having a trimethylsiloxy-terminated group in the presence of a platinum catalyst. According to another alternative, compound (B) may be an unsaturated hydrocarbon compound having at least two lower alkenyl groups (e.g., C2-C4); the lower alkenyl groups may be selected from vinyl, allyl, and propenyl groups. These lower alkenyl groups may be at any position on the molecule, but are preferably located at the terminals. An example is hexadiene, particularly 1,5-hexadiene. 【0043】 Advantageously, the sum of the number of ethylene groups per molecule of compound (B) and the number of hydrogen atoms bonded to silicon atoms per molecule of compound (A) is at least 5. 【0044】 It is advantageous for compound (A) to be added in an amount such that the molecular ratio between the total amount of hydrogen atoms bonded to silicon atoms in compound (A) and the total amount of ethylenically unsaturated groups in compound (B) is in the range of 1.5 / 1 to 20 / 1. 【0045】 Compound (C) is a crosslinking reaction catalyst, specifically including chloroplatinic acid, chloroplatinic acid-olefin complex, chloroplatinic acid-alkenylsiloxane complex, chloroplatinic acid-diketone complex, platinum black, and platinum on a support. Catalyst (C) is preferably added in an amount of 0.1 to 1000 parts by weight, more preferably 1 to 100 parts by weight, as clean platinum metal, per 1000 parts by weight of the total amount of compounds (A) and (B). 【0046】 Examples of usable non-emulsified elastomers include DOWSIL silicone elastomer blends sold by Dow Chemical Company under the names "DOWSIL, 9041" and "DOWSIL, EL-9241 DM," which are supported on non-volatile oils, and DOWSIL EL-8040 ID, DOWSIL EL-9140 DM, DOWSIL EL-9240 DM, DOWSIL EL-9048, DOWSIL 9040, DOWSIL 9045, DOWSIL EB-9586, and DOWSIL 9546, which are supported on volatile oils. 【0047】 It would also be worth mentioning the following models sold by Shin Etsu under the names "KSG-15", "KSG-1510", "USG-1G3", "USG-106", "KSG-16", "KSG-1610", "KSG-18A", "KSG-19", "KSG-016F", "KSG-41 A", "KSG-42 A", "KSG-43", "KSG-44", "KSG-042Z", "SG-045Z", and "KSG Q48Z". Other non-emulsified elastomers supported on non-volatile or weakly volatile oils are also sold by Grant Industries under the names "Gransil DM-10", "Gransil DMAM", "Gransil DMG-20", "Gransil DMG-6", and "Gransil PM"; or non-emulsified elastomers supported in oil mixtures are sold by Grant Industries under the names "Gransil OHS-5" and "Gransil PS-5"; or non-emulsified elastomers supported on volatile oils are sold by Grant Industries under the names "GI CD-10", "GI CD-11", "Gransil DMG-", "Gransil DMG-3", "Gransil GCM-5", "Gransil GTS", "Gransil GVL", "Gransil GVL-HV", "Gransil IDS-5", "Gransil MLB", "Gransil PC-12", "Gransil PC-12P", "Gransil RPS", "Gransil RPS-D6", and "GI It is sold under the names "CD-965", "Gransil DM-5", "Gransil DMCM-5", "Gransil DMDM-25", "Gransil DMDM-35", "Gransil DMID", "Gransil DMT3", and "Gransil G AM". 【0048】 In the case of the most concentrated commercial standards (high dry matter content), the content of the organopolysiloxane elastomer(s) active ingredient supported on the first oil may be in the range of 10% to 30% by weight, particularly 10% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. 【0049】 According to a particular embodiment, especially when the composition comprises an organopolysiloxane elastomer supported in an oil and a combination of organopolysiloxane elastomer powders different from the said elastomer, the composition according to the present invention contains an organopolysiloxane elastomer supported in a first oil in an amount of 0.1% to 10% by weight, particularly 1% to 8% by weight, preferably 2% to 6% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. The term "first oil" means the oil on which the organopolysiloxane elastomer is supported. This first oil is selected from non-volatile oils and volatile oils, preferably non-volatile oils. In particular, it is a silicone oil. 【0050】 In the context of the present invention, "silicone oil" means an oil containing at least one silicon atom, particularly a Si-O group. 【0051】 Examples include non-volatile polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS), which has a silicone chain with at least one C attached to the end and / or other C molecules. 2-24 Polydimethylsiloxanes containing alkyl or alkoxy groups are included. Polydimethylsiloxanes include, in particular, heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, dodecamethylpentasiloxane, and mixtures thereof. In particular, the first oil is selected from linear polydimethylsiloxanes with a viscosity of 5 cSt to 100 cSt (centistokes); or mixtures thereof. 【0052】 According to a particular embodiment, the composition of the present invention further comprises an organopolysiloxane elastomer powder in an oil different from the organopolysiloxane elastomer supported in the first oil. 【0053】 Organopolysiloxane elastomer powders coated or uncoated with silicone resin 【0054】 Accordingly, according to certain embodiments, the composition of the present invention further comprises an organopolysiloxane elastomer powder different from the organopolysiloxane elastomer supported on the first oil, wherein the organopolysiloxane elastomer powder is coated with or uncoated with a silicone resin. Advantageously, the composition further comprises at least one organopolysiloxane elastomer powder coated with a silicone resin. 【0055】 According to certain embodiments, the composition according to the present invention comprises an organopolysiloxane elastomer powder that is not coated with a silicone resin. As the elastomer in powder form, those sold by Dow Corning under the names "DC9505" and "DC 9506" (INCI name: dimethicone / vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer) can be used. 【0056】 According to certain preferred embodiments, the compositions of the present invention include organopolysiloxane elastomer powders coated with a silicone resin, particularly a silsesquioxane resin, as described, for example, in US 5 538 793. Such elastomer powders are sold by Shin Etsu under the names "KSP-100", "KSP-101", "KSP-102", "KSP-103", "KSP-104", and "KSP-105" (INCI name "vinyl dimethicone / methicone silsesquioxane crosspolymer"). 【0057】 Preferably, the organopolysiloxane elastomer powder coated with a silicone resin is a compound with the INCI name "vinyl dimethicone / methicone silsesquioxane crosspolymer". Preferably, the composition according to the present invention contains organopolysiloxane elastomer powder coated with a silicone resin, particularly a silsesquioxane resin, in an amount ranging from 1% to 20% by weight, particularly 5% to 15% by weight, and preferably 7% to 11% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. 【0058】 According to certain preferred embodiments, the composition also comprises an organopolysiloxane elastomer supported on a non-volatile oil, which is advantageously combined with at least one organopolysiloxane elastomer powder coated with a silicone resin. 【0059】 Accordingly, according to a particular embodiment, the content of the organopolysiloxane elastomer active component supported in the oil is in the range of 0.1% to 10% by weight, particularly 1% to 8% by weight, preferably 2% to 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and the content of the organopolysiloxane elastomer powder is in the range of 1% to 20% by weight, particularly 5% to 15% by weight, preferably 7% to 11% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. 【0060】 non polar oil The cosmetic composition according to the present invention comprises at least one "second oil" different from the first oil. This second oil is selected from non-volatile oils, volatile oils, or mixtures thereof, preferably from non-volatile oils. 【0061】 The second oil according to the present invention is a "non-polar oil," also known as a "apolar oil." 【0062】 In the context of this invention, "non-polar oil" means an oil with a solubility parameter δa of 0 (J / cm²) at 25°C. 3 ) 1 / 2 This refers to oil equivalent to [a certain value]. The definition and calculation of the HANSEN three-dimensional solubility parameters are described in the paper by C.M. HANSEN: "The three dimensional solubility parameters" J. Paint Technol. 39, 105 (1967). 【0063】 Non-polar oils can be silicone oils or hydrocarbon oils. 【0064】 In particular, non-polar oils can be non-polar hydrocarbon oils. 【0065】 Nonpolar hydrocarbon oils are selected from linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as paraffin oil or its derivatives, squalane, iso-icosane, naphthalene oil, polybutylene, hydrogenated polyisobutylene, decene / butene copolymer, polybutene / polyisobutene copolymer, polydecene and hydrogenated polydecene, and mixtures thereof. 【0066】 Preferably, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one nonpolar oil selected from polybutylene, hydrogenated polyisobutylene, decene / butene copolymer, polybutene / polyisobutene copolymer, hydrogenated polydecene, and polydecene, more preferably hydrogenated polydecene. 【0067】 The content of non-polar oil(s) according to the present invention is generally in the range of 15% to 45% by weight, particularly 20% to 40% by weight, of the total weight of the composition. 【0068】 The compositions of the present invention may further include other additional oils selected from hydrocarbon oils, silicone oils, and mixtures thereof. 【0069】 According to a particular embodiment, the composition further comprises at least one polar hydrocarbon oil. 【0070】 In the context of this invention, the term "polar oil" refers to an oil with a solubility parameter δa of 0 (J / cm²) at 25°C. 3 ) 1 / 2 This refers to oils that are not equal in quality. 【0071】 In particular, polar hydrocarbon oils(s) contain at least one alcohol fraction (which is then an "alcohol oil") or at least one ester function (which is then an "ester oil"). 【0072】 "Alcohol oils" include, in particular, C10-C26, more specifically C10-C24, preferably C12-C22, saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched alcohols, and more specifically monoalcohols. More specifically, C10-C26 alcohols are fatty monoalcohols that are preferably branched if they contain at least 16 carbon atoms. Examples of fatty alcohols that can be used in the present invention include synthetic or naturally occurring linear or branched fatty alcohols. Specific examples of fatty alcohols that can be preferably used include, in particular, lauryl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol and oleic alcohol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, 2-hexyldecyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, octyldodecanol and mixtures thereof. According to an advantageous embodiment of the present invention, the fatty alcohol is octyldodecanol. 【0073】 Therefore, according to certain embodiments, the compositions of the present invention also comprise octyldodecanol. 【0074】 According to certain embodiments, the composition of the present invention further comprises a polar oil. 【0075】 "Ester oils" in particular - In particular, fatty acid esters containing 4 to 22 carbon atoms, - Synthetic esters, for example, oils of formula R1COOR2 [wherein R1 represents a linear or branched fatty acid residue having 4 to 40 carbon atoms, and R2 is in particular a branched hydrocarbon chain containing 4 to 40 carbon atoms, provided that R1 + R2 ≥ 16, e.g., isononyl isononanoate, 2-hexyl palmitate, octyldodecylneopentanoate, octyl-2 dodecyl stearate, isostearyl isostearate, octyl-2 dodecyl benzoate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, butyl stearate, hexyl laurate, 2-ethyl-hexyl palmitate, 2-hexyl-decyl laurate, 2-octyl-decyl palmitate, 2-octyldodecyl myristate, and 2-diethyl-hexyl succinate]. - Linear fatty acid esters with a total carbon number ranging from 35 to 70; - Preferably hydroxyl esters having a total number of carbon atoms in the range of 35 to 70, such as polyglycerol-2 triisostearate, isostearyl lactate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearyl malate, glycerin stearate; diethylene glycol diisononanoate; Aromatic acid esters and alcohols containing 4 to 22 atoms - Fatty alcohol esters or branched C24-C28 fatty acids -Polyesters (optionally unsaturated) resulting from the esterification of at least one carboxylic acid triglyceride hydroxylated with an aliphatic monocarboxylic acid, and mixtures thereof, It includes. 【0076】 Therefore, according to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the present invention contains a polar oil(s) in an amount of 1% to 15% by weight, for example, 2% to 10% by weight, of the total weight of the composition. 【0077】 The total amount of oil present in the composition according to the present invention is 40% to 75% by weight, preferably 50% to 70% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. 【0078】 Polar wax The composition according to the present invention comprises at least one polar wax. 【0079】 In the context of this invention, the term "wax" means a solid compound at 25°C that undergoes a reversible solid / liquid state change and has a melting temperature exceeding 30°C, preferably exceeding 45°C. 【0080】 In particular, polar waxes are selected from the group including beeswax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, cotton wax, rice bran wax, sunflower wax, bay wax, Chinese insect wax, montan wax, lanolin and its acetylated alcohol derivatives, esterified alcohol derivatives, polyethoxylated alcohol derivatives, kapok wax, sugarcane wax, hexyl laurate, jojoba wax, shellac wax, polyethoxylated cholesterol ether, synthetic beeswax sold by Koster Keunen under the trade name Kester Wax K82H, or a mixture thereof. 【0081】 According to a particular embodiment, the composition of the present invention comprises one or more polar waxes selected from the group consisting of candelilla wax, beeswax, carnauba wax, rice bran wax, sunflower wax, jojoba wax, and mixtures thereof, preferably candelilla wax. 【0082】 In a preferred embodiment, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one candelilla wax as a polar wax. 【0083】 The polar wax content in the composition of the present invention is generally 0.5% to 10% by weight, preferably 1% to 5% by weight, of the total weight of the composition. 【0084】 The composition may further contain a nonpolar wax. 【0085】 The term "non-polar wax" shall mean hydrocarbon waxes and / or silicone waxes. 【0086】 The term "nonpolar hydrocarbon wax" refers to a wax that contains only carbon and hydrogen atoms and does not contain heteroatoms such as oxygen, nitrogen, silicon, or phosphorus. 【0087】 In particular, as nonpolar waxes, single-crystal waxes, paraffin, ozokerite, polyethylene wax, and mixtures thereof can be used, preferably polyethylene wax. 【0088】 The term "non-polar silicone wax" refers to a wax containing silicon heteroatoms. 【0089】 Examples of non-polar silicone waxes include C20-24 alkyldimethicone sold by Siltech under the name Silwax D2024; C24-28 alkyldimethicone sold by Evonik Industries AG under the name Abil Wax; or a mixture thereof. 【0090】 The nonpolar wax content in the composition of the present invention may be in the range of 0.5% to 12% by weight, particularly 2% to 10% by weight, or 4% to 8% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. 【0091】 According to certain embodiments, the compositions of the present invention further include polar waxes and non-polar waxes, preferably polyethylene waxes, selected from these. 【0092】 Therefore, according to certain embodiments, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one candelilla wax and polyethylene wax. 【0093】 In particular, the compositions according to the present invention may contain a total wax content in the range of 5% to 20% by weight, for example, 6% to 15% by weight, preferably 7% to 12% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. 【0094】 According to a particular embodiment, the total content of wax(s) in the composition of the present invention is 5% by weight or more relative to the total weight of the composition. 【0095】 Additional ingredients The composition of the present invention further comprises a fatty paste-like substance. 【0096】 Fatty paste-like substance The term "fatty paste-like compound," "paste-like compound," or "fatty paste-like substance" refers to an amorphous fatty compound containing liquid and solid fractions at a temperature of 25°C. 【0097】 Paste-like compounds include, for example, lanolin and its derivatives, silicone polymer compounds, alkyl methacrylate copolymers (preferably having C8-C30 alkyl groups), homooligomers and copolymers of vinyl esters having C8-C30 alkyl groups, homooligomers and copolymers of vinyl ethers having C8-C30 alkyl groups, one or more C2-C50 diols, lipid-soluble polyethers produced by polyethers between ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide copolymers and C6-C30 long-chain alkylene oxides, diglycerol esters, arachidylpropionates, and more. The following are selected from the group consisting of ythosterol esters, non-crosslinked polyesters obtained by polycondensation between branched or linear C4-C50 dicarboxylic acids or polycarboxylic acids and diols or polyols, esters obtained by the esterification reaction of hydrogenated castor oil and isostearic acid, for example monoisostearate, diisostearate or triisostearate of hydrogenated castor oil, mixtures of soybean sterols and pentaerythritol oxyethylene (5OE) oxypropylene (5OP), fatty acid triglycerides and their derivatives, shaved butter, cocoa butter, mango oil or butter, and mixtures thereof. 【0098】 Filler The composition further comprises silicone elastomer powder and at least one additional filler different from the silicone elastomer powder. 【0099】 In the sense of the present invention, the term “filler” means colorless or white, mineral or organic, natural or synthetic, particles of any shape, insoluble and dispersed in the medium of the composition. These fillers are particularly useful in correcting the rheology or texture of the composition and / or providing a matting effect. The fillers are mineral or organic and may be plate-like, spherical or rectangular in shape. 【0100】 The "fillers" are selected from, in particular, silica, mica, kaolin, zinc oxide, and titanium of natural or synthetic origin; calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate, and magnesium bicarbonate; zinc stearate, magnesium stearate, or lithium stearate, zinc laurate, and magnesium myristate; synthetic polymer powders, such as polyethylene, polyester, and polyamide (e.g., nylon); polyacrylic acid or polymethacrylic acid powders; mineral powders, such as spherical silica; spherical titanium dioxide; glass and ceramic beads; naturally derived organic material powders, such as crosslinked or uncrosslinked starches derived from corn, wheat, and rice, and mixtures thereof. 【0101】 According to certain embodiments, silica, cellulose powder, and mixtures thereof are used. 【0102】 The composition according to the present invention may contain a filler(s) in an amount of 0.5% to 10% by weight, for example, 1% to 8% by weight, preferably 2% to 7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. 【0103】 Coloring material A composition conforming to the present invention may, advantageously, include at least one "colorant" which can be selected from organic or inorganic colorants, materials having optical effects, and mixtures thereof, which may be water-soluble or water-insoluble, lipid-soluble or non-lipid-soluble, for lip makeup. 【0104】 In the context of this invention, the term "coloring agent" means a compound that, when incorporated in a sufficient amount into a suitable cosmetic medium, can produce a colored optical effect. 【0105】 According to a particular embodiment, the colorants(s) are selected from, in particular, mineral and / or organic pigments, hybrid pigments (based on mineral and / or organic materials), colorants, pearlescent or pearlescent pigments, and mixtures thereof. 【0106】 The term "coloring agent" refers to coloring agents that have been traditionally used in the cosmetics field, distinct from those used in food. 【0107】 According to certain embodiments, the compositions of the present invention include at least one colorant selected from mineral and / or organic pigments, hybrid pigments (based on mineral and / or organic materials), pearlescent or pearlescent pigments, and mixtures thereof. 【0108】 Mineral pigments and organic pigments "Pigment" means a mineral or organic white or colored particle insoluble in aqueous solution, intended to color and / or opaque the resulting deposit. These may include mineral pigments, organic pigments, and hybrid pigments (in other words, pigments based on minerals and / or organic materials). 【0109】 Examples of "mineral pigments" include titanium dioxide; black, yellow, red, and brown iron oxides; and manganese violet. 【0110】 Examples of "organic pigments" include D&C red no. 19; D&C red no. 9; D&C Red no. 22; D&C Red no. 21; D&C Red no. 28; D&C Yellow no. 6; D&C orange no. 4; D&C orange no. 5; D&C Red no. 27; D&C red no. 13; D&C Red no. 7; D&C Red no. 6; D&C Yellow no. 5; D&C Red no. 36; D&C Red no. 33; D&C orange no. 10; D&C yellow no. 6; D&C Red no. 30; D&C red no. 3; D&C Blue 1; carbon black; and cochineal carmine-based lacquer. 【0111】 Coloring agents "Colorants" may include Yellow 5, Yellow 6, Blue 1, Green 5, Green 3, Green 6, Orange 4, Red 4, Red 21, Red 22, Red 27, Red 28, Red 33, Red 40, and cochineal carmine (Cl 15850, Cl 75470). Lipid-soluble colorants include, for example, Sudan red, D&C Red 17, D&C Green 6, beta-carotene, Sudan brown, D&C Yellow 11, D&C Violet 2, D&C orange 5, quinoline yellow, and annatto. 【0112】 In particular, the total content of the coloring agent in the composition may be in the range of 1% to 15% by weight, especially 2% to 10% by weight, and more preferably 3% to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. 【0113】 Galen The composition of the present invention is a keratin-based care and / or makeup composition, particularly a lip care and / or makeup composition. 【0114】 The compositions of the present invention are generally solid compositions as defined above. 【0115】 Makeup compositions for the lips may include, in particular, lipsticks, lip contour pencils, or lip balms. 【0116】 According to certain preferred embodiments, the composition is a solid lip makeup composition, particularly a stick or lipstick. 【0117】 Makeup methods The present invention also relates to a cosmetic method for caring for and / or making up the lips, which comprises applying a composition according to the present invention. 【0118】 The composition applied to the lips is preferably a solid lip makeup composition, particularly a stick or lipstick. 【0119】 The method according to the present invention is, in particular, a method for applying makeup to the lips, intended to create a comfortable, matte, non-drying, and long-lasting film on the lips. 【0120】 The present invention is illustrated by the following non-limiting embodiments. Percentages are expressed as weight percentages relative to the total weight of the composition unless otherwise specified. [Examples] 【0121】 Example 1: Effect of the presence of polar wax in the composition of the present invention 【0122】 Two comparative formulations were tested: one containing a polar wax (the present invention) and one without a polar wax (comparative formulation). The polar wax used was candelilla wax. 【0123】 The embodiments of the above formulation were evaluated, along with their stability and sensory properties. 【0124】 The results are shown in the table below: [Table 1] 【0125】 The composition is prepared according to the following protocol: -A silicone elastomer (Dowsil 9241 EL) supported in oil and 100 cs of dimethicone are mixed with stirring at 95°C; once the mixture is homogenized, polyethylene wax and candelilla wax are incorporated; - A pigment paste containing pigments, hydrogenated polydecene, and lecithin is added to the prepared mixture above when the wax melts, and then the powder is sprinkled on under stirring (fillers: silica shell, sunsphere H33, and KSP100); Pour the mixture into the mold at a temperature exceeding -95°C. 【0126】 Lipsticks are evaluated based on several criteria: -Sensory properties: Sensory characteristics, color: Compositions are subjected to sensory testing for comfort, mattiness, and coverage. -Physicochemical properties: Hardness test, fracture test: Physicochemical measurements are performed to ensure the possible molding of the composition of the present invention, the strength of the stick during application, and its fracture. In practice, the stick is left at 20°C for 24 hours. Next, the hardness of the stick is measured by cutting it 1 cm from the cup using a wire. This procedure is performed three times and the average value is calculated. Hardness makes it possible to predict the behavior of the stick during demolding from the mold, at fracture, and during application. A texture analyzer (TAXT Plus, Exponent software) is used for hardness measurement. The obtained value is expressed in Gram force (Gf) and should be between 140 and 190. - Stability: To replicate the product's lifespan, the formula is monitored in various ovens. These accelerated degradation tests ensure the product remains stable over time. They also verify the product's durability under normal storage and usage conditions. In practice, the stability of the sticks is observed after passing through various ovens, including those with varying humidity and alternating temperatures between 4°C and 45°C. The components are stabilized 24 hours after manufacturing. Samples are observed in each oven after predetermined time intervals such as 24 hours, 2 weeks, 1 month, and 3 months. Observe for color shift, dripping, seepage, and changes in the stick's appearance (glossiness, mattiness). 【0127】 These results demonstrate that the presence of a polar wax in the composition of the present invention makes it possible to obtain a stable composition having desired functional and physicochemical properties compared to the same composition without the polar wax. 【0128】 This composition, having an unguided, comfortable structure (not constricting over time), rather has a "rigid" structure, making it possible to obtain a matte stick with high coverage. The term "unguided structure" refers to a formulation for application when the stick (lipstick tube) is located outside the mechanism. 【0129】 Example 2: Effect of the presence of polar wax in the composition of the present invention 【0130】 This study compares two formulations: one containing a polar wax (the present invention) and another where a polar wax is not desired (a comparative example). The polar wax used is candelilla wax. [Table 2] 【0131】 The composition is prepared according to the following protocol: -A silicone elastomer (Dowsil 9241 EL) supported in oil and 100 cs of dimethicone are mixed with stirring at 95°C; once the mixture is homogenized, polyethylene wax and candelilla wax are incorporated; - A pigment paste containing pigments, hydrogenated polydecene, and lecithin is added to the prepared mixture above when the wax melts, and then the powder is sprinkled on under stirring (fillers: silica shell, sunsphere H33, and KSP100); - Pour the mixture into the mold at a temperature exceeding 95°C. 【0132】 Lipsticks are evaluated based on several criteria: - Sensory properties: Sensory characteristics, color: Compositions are tested for comfort, mattiness, and coverage. -Physicochemical properties: Hardness test, fracture test: Physicochemical measurements are performed to ensure the possible molding of the composition of the present invention, the strength of the stick during application, and its fracture. In practice, the stick is left at 20°C for 24 hours. Next, the hardness of the stick is measured by cutting it 1 cm from the cup using a wire. This procedure is performed three times and the average value is calculated. Hardness makes it possible to predict the behavior of the stick during demolding from the mold, at fracture, and during application. A texture analyzer (TAXT Plus, Exponent software) is used for hardness measurement. The obtained value is expressed in Gram force (Gf) and should be between 140 and 190. - Stability: To replicate the product's lifespan, the formula is monitored in various ovens. These accelerated degradation tests ensure the product remains stable over time. They also verify the product's durability under normal storage and usage conditions. In practice, the stability of the sticks is observed after passing through various ovens, including those with varying humidity and alternating temperatures between 4°C and 45°C. The components are stabilized 24 hours after manufacturing. Samples are observed in each oven after predetermined time intervals such as 24 hours, 2 weeks, 1 month, and 3 months. Observe for color shift, dripping, seepage, and changes in the stick's appearance (glossiness, mattiness). 【0133】 This composition, having a comfortable, shape-independent structure (no tightness over time), makes it possible to obtain a matte stick with a high degree of coverage that is rather "rigid." 【0134】 Example 3: Composition for lips having a velvety matte finish [Table 3] 【0135】 This composition is stable. After application to the lips, a comfortable adherence is obtained, which has a matte, non-drying, velvety appearance. 【0136】 Example 4: Composition for lips having a velvety matte finish [Table 4] 【0137】 This composition is stable. After application to the lips, a comfortable adherence is obtained, which has a matte, non-drying, velvety appearance. Furthermore, the present invention includes the following embodiments. [Aspect 1] Preferably an anhydrous cosmetic composition comprising at least, in a physiologically acceptable medium, One or more organopolysiloxane elastomers (preferably at least (Organopolysiloxane elastomer supported on the first oil), A non-polar oil, different from the first oil. Polar wax, Includes, A cosmetic composition in which the total content of organopolysiloxane elastomer active ingredients is 7% by weight or more, preferably 10% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition. [Aspect 2] The cosmetic composition according to Embodiment 1, characterized by comprising an organopolysiloxane elastomer supported on a first oil and an organopolysiloxane elastomer powder different from the organopolysiloxane elastomer supported on the first oil. [Aspect 3] The cosmetic composition according to embodiment 2, characterized in that the organopolysiloxane elastomer powder is coated with a silicone resin. [Aspect 4] The cosmetic composition according to embodiment 2 or 3, characterized in that the content of the organopolysiloxane elastomer active ingredient supported on the oil is in the range of 0.1% to 10% by weight, particularly 1% to 8% by weight, preferably 2% to 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and the content of the organopolysiloxane elastomer powder is in the range of 1% to 20% by weight, particularly 5% to 15% by weight, preferably 7% to 11% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. [Aspect 5] The cosmetic composition according to any one of embodiments 1 to 4, characterized in that the polar wax is selected from the group consisting of candelilla wax, beeswax, carnauba wax, rice bran wax, sunflower wax, jojoba wax, and mixtures thereof, and is preferably candelilla wax. [Aspect 6] A cosmetic composition according to any one of embodiments 1 to 5, further comprising at least one nonpolar wax. [Aspect 7] A cosmetic composition according to any one of embodiments 1 to 6, characterized in that the total wax content is 5% by weight or more relative to the total weight of the composition. [Aspect 8] A cosmetic composition according to any one of embodiments 1 to 7, further comprising at least one polar oil. [Aspect 9] A cosmetic composition according to any one of embodiments 1 to 8, further comprising a coloring agent, preferably a pigment. [Aspect 10] A cosmetic composition according to any one of embodiments 1 to 9, characterized in that it is a care product and / or makeup product for the lips, in particular a lipstick, lip contour pencil, or lip balm. [Aspect 11] A cosmetic method for caring for and / or making up the lips, comprising applying a cosmetic composition according to any one of embodiments 1 to 10 to the lips.

Claims

[Claim 1] An anhydrous cosmetic composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least, An organopolysiloxane elastomer supported on a first silicone oil, A non-polar oil different from the first silicone oil, Candelilla wax is a polar wax. Includes, The total content of the organopolysiloxane elastomer active ingredient is 7% by weight or more relative to the total weight of the composition. Non-polar oils are selected from the group consisting of polybutylene, hydrogenated polyisobutylene, decene / butene copolymer, polybutene / polyisobutene copolymer, polydecene, hydrogenated polydecene, and mixtures thereof. A cosmetic composition characterized in that the content of nonpolar oil is in the range of 15% to 45% by weight of the total weight of the composition. [Claim 2] The cosmetic composition according to claim 1, characterized by comprising an organopolysiloxane elastomer supported on a first silicone oil and an organopolysiloxane elastomer powder different from the organopolysiloxane elastomer supported on the first silicone oil. [Claim 3] The cosmetic composition according to claim 2, characterized in that the organopolysiloxane elastomer powder is coated with a silicone resin. [Claim 4] The cosmetic composition according to claim 2 or 3, characterized in that the content of the organopolysiloxane elastomer active ingredient supported on the first silicone oil is in the range of 0.1% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and the content of the organopolysiloxane elastomer powder is in the range of 1% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. [Claim 5] A cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, further comprising at least one nonpolar wax. [Claim 6] The cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that the total wax content is 5% by weight or more relative to the total weight of the composition. [Claim 7] A cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, further comprising at least one polar oil. [Claim 8] A cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, further comprising a coloring agent. [Claim 9] A cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8, characterized in that it is a lip care product and / or a makeup product. [Claim 10] The cosmetic composition according to claim 9, characterized in that it is a lipstick, a lip contour pencil, or a lip balm. [Claim 11] A cosmetic method for caring for and / or making up the lips, comprising applying a cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 10 to the lips.

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