Disintegrating granular composition, or cosmetic composition containing the same
A granulated composition with semi-solid ester oil and glitter powder, combined with optional water-soluble polymers and clay minerals, addresses makeup longevity and disintegration issues, offering enhanced cosmetic retention and aesthetic appearance.
Patent Information
- Authority / Receiving Office
- JP · JP
- Patent Type
- Patents
- Current Assignee / Owner
- KOSE HOLDINGS CORP
- Filing Date
- 2022-03-16
- Publication Date
- 2026-07-29
AI Technical Summary
Existing cosmetic compositions using water-soluble polymers for shape retention and thin film fragments for pearlescent luster face challenges with makeup longevity, uniform dispersion, and disintegration properties, while compositions with spherical powder and liquid oil lack sufficient shape retention.
A granulated composition using semi-solid ester oil agents with glitter powder and optional water-soluble polymers and water-swellable clay minerals, achieving shape retention and disintegration properties without film-forming agents, enhancing coverage, makeup longevity, and aesthetic appearance.
The composition provides superior cosmetic retention, coverage, filling and moldability, and aesthetic appearance by maintaining shape and disintegrating appropriately, addressing the limitations of previous technologies.
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Abstract
Description
Technical Field
[0001] The present invention relates to a disintegrating granule composition or a cosmetic containing the same.
Background Art
[0002] Cosmetics have various dosage forms. In addition to functional requirements, there has been a demand for cosmetics with high aesthetic appearance that combine various colors and textures. Among them, in makeup cosmetics, there is a demand for cosmetics that emphasize aesthetic appearance by utilizing the color and texture of powders. As a specific example, in solid cosmetics, cosmetics that enhance aesthetic appearance by making full use of surface patterns are popular. Conventionally, efforts have been made in the shape maintenance of parts for making patterns and the improvement of filling techniques. Among them, in a powder-based dosage form, attempts have been made to obtain highly aesthetic cosmetics by combining a plurality of colors of a disintegrating granule composition. In a disintegrating granule composition, it is required to simultaneously have shape retention that can maintain the shape until it becomes a cosmetic, appropriate disintegration property that enables filling and molding, and good dispersibility for easy application during coating. On the other hand, in makeup cosmetics, darkening around the eyes is a major problem. In order to achieve a finish without darkening, it is necessary to cope with enhancing the impression around the eyes by blending a large amount of brightening powder or providing coverage for the skin around the eyes itself. Furthermore, around the eyes, in addition to fine movements, a cosmetic film with strong makeup retention against sweat and sebum is required. In order to solve such problems, a technique for obtaining a disintegrating granule composition for cosmetics by combining a cellulose-based water-soluble polymer and thin film pieces exhibiting a true pearl luster (brightening) due to a thin layer of optical interference color (see, for example, Patent Document 1), and a technique for obtaining spherical powder cosmetics by combining a powder and a water-swelling clay mineral as a binder (see, for example, Patent Document 2) are known.
Prior Art Documents
Patent Documents
[0003]
Patent Document 1
[0004] However, in technologies such as Patent Document 1, which combine thin film fragments with a pearlescent luster with water-soluble polymers, while a remarkable cosmetic feel was achieved by realizing a pearlescent luster during use, the use of water-soluble polymers to maintain the shape of the granulated composition meant that the makeup did not last long enough against sweat. Furthermore, the use of water-soluble film-forming agents resulted in high cohesiveness of the powder, making uniform dispersion difficult and thus the effect of enhancing coverage was insufficient. Moreover, if the granulated composition was too hard, its disintegration properties were insufficient, sometimes causing problems with filling and molding in cosmetics. Additionally, in technologies such as Patent Document 2, which combine mica and mica titania with spherical powder and liquid oil, while improved usability was achieved, the level of shape retention was insufficient because only the liquid oil maintained the shape of the granulated composition. Therefore, the present invention aims to provide cosmetics that are excellent in terms of "coverage," "makeup longevity," and "aesthetic appearance" in the case of cosmetics, and in terms of "filling and molding properties" in the case of solid cosmetics, by using a granulated composition that can be used as a granulated composition and has "shape retention" which maintains a certain shape as a granulated composition before filling, and "disintegration properties" which allow the shape to be deformed during filling and have appropriate hardness that disperses and disintegrates when used. [Means for solving the problem]
[0005] In light of various circumstances, the inventors considered whether it would be possible to realize a granulated composition that achieves both shape retention and disintegration without using film-forming agents, etc., by using a semi-solid ester oil agent that has superior powder-to-powder bonding strength compared to liquid oil. As a result of diligent research, they found that by using a granulated composition that has "shape retention," which is the minimum standard of hardness that allows it to maintain a certain shape as a granulated composition before filling, and "disintegration," which is the upper standard of hardness that allows it to deform in shape during filling and disintegrate during use, the composition excels in "coverage," "makeup longevity," and "aesthetic appearance" in the case of cosmetics, and in "filling and molding properties" in the case of solid cosmetics, and thus completed the present invention.
[0006] Therefore, the present invention is as follows. [1] The following components (A), (B); (A) Glitter powder 20~80% by mass (B) A semi-solid ester oil at 25°C, wherein the oil is one or more selected from N-acyl amino acid esters, glycerin fatty acid esters, dimer acid esters, dipentaerythritol fatty acid esters, fatty acid cholesteryl esters, and fatty acid phytosteryl esters, in an amount of 1 to 30% by mass. This is a disintegrating granular composition containing [the specified ingredient], with an average particle size of 0.5 to 4.0 mm. [2] The disintegrating granular composition described in [1] further contains 0.2 to 3% by mass of one or more selected from component (C) water-soluble polymers and water-swellable clay minerals. [3] The disintegrating granular composition according to [1] or [2], wherein the mass ratio of component (A) to component (B), component (A) / component (B), is 1.0 to 100. [4] The disintegrating granular composition according to any one of [1] to [3], wherein component (B) is one or more selected from shea butter, tri(caprylic / capric / myristic / stearic acid) glyceryl, hexa(hydroxystearic acid / stearic acid / rosinic acid) dipentaerythrityl, bis-diglyceryl polyacyladipate-2, laurolyl glutamate di(octyldodecyl / phytosteryl / behenyl), hydrogenated coconut oil, and hydrogenated palm oil. [5] The disintegrating granular composition according to any one of [1] to [4], wherein component (C) is one or more selected from (acrylates / alkyl acrylate (C10-C30)) crosspolymer and magnesium aluminum silicate. [6] The disintegrating granulated composition according to any one of items [1] to [5] further includes a step of granulation using water as a solvent. [7] A cosmetic composition containing 50 to 100% by mass of the disintegrating granular composition described in any one of the above items [1] to [6]. [8] The cosmetic composition described in [7] above, which is a powder cosmetic composition.
[0007] Furthermore, the following can also be included: [9] The present invention relates to the disintegrating granular compositions described in [1] to [8], further containing component (D) metal soap. [Effects of the Invention]
[0008] The present invention provides a disintegrating granular composition with excellent shape retention and disintegration properties, and offers superior cosmetic retention, coverage, filling and moldability, and aesthetic appearance of the coated film. [Modes for carrying out the invention]
[0009] The present invention will be described in detail below. In this specification, mass % may sometimes be simply written as "%", but this will mean mass %, and "~" will mean a range including the values before and after it. Furthermore, the "average particle diameter" of the powder in this invention refers to the value (median diameter D50) obtained by observing the surface condition using a scanning electron microscope (JEOL Ltd., JSM-7800prime) and measuring it with an image analysis device (Luzex AP, Nireco Corporation), and refers to the major axis of the particle.
[0010] The lustrous powder (A) used in the present invention is a powder having a high-luminosity appearance, such as a pearlescent agent or glitter agent. The lustrous powder in the present invention is not particularly limited as long as it is commonly used in cosmetics, for example, titanium dioxide coated mica, titanium dioxide coated synthetic fluorphlogopite, iron oxide coated mica, iron oxide coated titanium mica, black iron oxide coated titanium mica, iron oxide / black iron oxide coated titanium mica, ultramarine coated titanium mica, carmine coated titanium mica, carmine / ultramarine coated titanium mica, iron oxide / carmine coated titanium mica, iron oxide / ultramarine coated titanium mica, organic pigment coated titanium mica, metal powder coated titanium mica, metal powder coated synthetic fluorphlogopite, glass powder, Examples include titanium dioxide coated glass flakes, metal powder coated glass powders, aluminum flakes, titanium dioxide coated alumina flakes, titanium dioxide coated silica flakes, iron oxide / silica coated aluminum, polyethylene terephthalate / aluminum / epoxy laminated powder, polyethylene terephthalate / polyolefin laminated film powder, polyethylene terephthalate / polymethyl methacrylate laminated film powder, goniochromatic gloss pigments, fish scale foil, gold powder, silver powder, etc., and one or more of these can be used as needed. Among these, in order to maintain the aesthetic appearance of the easily disintegrating granulated composition and to have high brightness even in bulk, glass powder, titanium oxide coated glass flakes, metal powder coated glass powder, titanium oxide coated mica, titanium oxide coated synthetic fluorphlogopite, iron oxide coated titanium mica, iron oxide coated synthetic titanium fluorphlogopite, metal powder coated titanium mica, and metal powder coated synthetic fluorphlogopite are preferred, with glass powder, titanium oxide coated glass flakes, and metal powder coated glass powder being more preferred. Furthermore, from the viewpoint of shape retention and disintegration, coated luminous powders consisting of mica, synthetic phlogopite, silica, glass, or aluminum, with a coating layer of metal, metal oxide, or organic pigment, are preferred; coated luminous powders consisting of mica or synthetic phlogopite with a coating layer of metal or metal oxide are more preferred; and coated luminous powders consisting of synthetic phlogopite with a coating layer of metal or metal oxide are even more preferred.
[0011] The lower limit of the content of component (A) in the disintegrating granular composition is 20% or more, preferably 40% or more, and more preferably 50% or more. The upper limit is 80% or less, preferably 75% or less, and more preferably 70% or less. This range is preferable from the viewpoint of shape retention and coverage.
[0012] The average particle size of component (A) used in the present invention is not particularly limited, but is preferably 10 μm or more, more preferably 20 μm or more, and even more preferably 30 μm or more, with an upper limit of preferably 220 μm or less, more preferably 110 μm or less, and even more preferably 60 μm or less. Within this range, it is preferable from the viewpoint of shape retention and disintegration properties as a granulated composition, and coverage, filling moldability, and appearance aesthetics as a cosmetic.
[0013] The ester oil agent (B) used in the present invention is semi-solid at 25°C and non-liquid at 25°C and one atmosphere, and is a polar oil agent. Furthermore, it is preferable that the oil agent has a hardness of 20 to 1600 N at 25°C. In the present invention, hardness is the value measured using a rheometer manufactured by Sun Scientific Co., Ltd., with a circular adapter having a pressure-sensitive shaft diameter of 2 cm, a needle insertion speed of 6 cm / min, and a needle insertion depth of 3 mm. Furthermore, it is preferable that the melting point is 35°C to 60°C, but is not particularly limited. In the present invention, the melting point is determined by the method described in the 4th report of the General Test Methods for Quasi-Drugs, Melting Point Measurement Method. Component (B) is one or more ester oils selected from N-acyl amino acid esters, glycerin fatty acid esters, dimer acid esters, dipentaerythritol fatty acid esters, fatty acid cholesteryl esters, and fatty acid phytosteryl esters. This ester oil has one or more skeletons selected from amino acids, glycerin, dimer acid, dipentaerythritol, cholesterol, and phytosterols. The fatty groups are not particularly limited, but those containing saturated fatty groups with 16 to 30 carbon atoms are preferred, and they may be combined with branched structures, hydroxyl groups, unsaturated fatty groups, or short fatty groups with less than 14 carbon atoms. Since they are semi-solid, it is preferable that they are esterified by combining one or more types. Furthermore, the degree of esterification is not particularly limited, but they should be oil-soluble. Specifically, for example, N-acyl amino acid esters such as dioctyldodecyl lauroyl glutamate, di(cholesteryl / octyldodecyl) lauroyl glutamate, di(cholesteryl / behenyl / octyldodecyl) lauroyl glutamate, di(octyldodecyl / phytosteryl / behenyl) lauroyl glutamate, hexaglycerin fatty acid esters, decaglycerin fatty acid esters, (adipate / 2-ethylhexanoic acid / stearic acid) glyceryl oligoesters, hydrogenated castor oil stearate, hydrogenated coconut oil, hydrogenated palm oil, shea butter, glyceryl tri(caprylic / capric acid / myristic acid / stearic acid), bis-diglyceryl polyacyladipate-2, hydrogenated castor oil hydroxystearate, and dimer dilinoleate (phytosteryl / isosulfate). Examples include dimer acid esters such as tearyl / cetyl / stearyl / behenyl dimer dilinoleate, di(isostearyl / phytosteryl) dimer dilinoleate, dimer dilinoleyl bisisostearyl dimer dilinoleate, dipentaerythritol fatty acid esters such as (12-hydroxystearic acid / stearic acid / rosinic acid) dipentaerythritol, hexa(hydroxystearic acid / stearic acid / rosinic acid) dipentaerythritol, and (12-hydroxystearic acid / isostearic acid) dipentaerythritol, fatty acid cholesteryl esters such as cholesteryl isostearate, cholesteryl hydroxystearate, and cholesteryl ricinoleate, and fatty acid phytosteryl esters such as macadamia nut oil fatty acid phytosteryl, and one or more of these can be used. In particular, hydrogenated coconut oil, hydrogenated palm oil, shea butter, bis-diglyceryl polyacyladipate-2, glyceryl tri(caprylic / capric / myristic / stearic acid), dipentaerythrityl hexa(hydroxystearate / stearic acid / rosinate), and di(octyldodecyl / phytosteryl / behenyl) lauroyl glutamate are preferred. These are especially preferred from the viewpoint of coverage and makeup longevity.
[0014] As the content in the composition of component (B), the lower limit is 1% or more, preferably 5% or more, and more preferably 8% or more. As the upper limit, it is 30% or less, preferably 20% or less, and more preferably 15% or less. Being within this range is preferable from the viewpoints of the shape retention and disintegration properties of the granulated composition. As the content of component (B) in the cosmetic, the lower limit is preferably 0.5% or more, preferably 2.5% or more, and more preferably 4% or more. As the upper limit, it is 30% or less, preferably 20% or less, and more preferably 15% or less. Being within this range is preferable from the viewpoints of the makeup retention and filling moldability of the cosmetic.
[0015] The melting point of component (B) used in the present invention is not particularly limited, but as the lower limit, it is preferably 30°C or more, and as the upper limit, it is preferably 60°C or less, more preferably 50°C or less, and even more preferably 40°C or less. Being within this range is preferable from the viewpoint of the covering power.
[0016] In the present invention, the mass ratio (A) / (B) of component (A) and component (B) is not particularly limited, but the above-mentioned component (A) and component (B) are appropriately contained, and although the content ratio is not limited, setting it to a specific ratio is preferable because it can improve the integrality of the structure in the granulated composition of component (A) and component (B) and is expected to further enhance the effects of the invention. The lower limit is preferably 0.3 or more, more preferably 1 or more, and even more preferably 2 or more. As the upper limit, it is preferably 220 or less, more preferably 100 or less, further preferably 60 or less, and even more preferably 22 or less. Even more preferably, it is 7.5 or less. Being within this range is preferable from the viewpoints of the shape retention and disintegration properties of the granulated composition, the covering power of the cosmetic, the makeup retention, and the filling moldability.
[0017] The present invention may further contain component (C) a water-soluble polymer or a water-swellable clay mineral. The water-soluble polymer or water-swellable clay mineral in the present invention is not particularly limited as long as it is commonly used in cosmetics. For example, water-soluble polymers can be water-soluble synthetic polymer compounds, semi-synthetic polymer compounds, natural polymer compounds, etc., and water-swellable clay minerals are not particularly limited as long as they are clay minerals that swell with water. A water-soluble polymer is a clay mineral that has cations between its layers and has the property of swelling with water by widening the basal space between the clay minerals through the interaction of water and cations, and has a water swelling capacity of 10 ml / g or more. Specifically, synthetic polymer compounds include carboxyvinyl polymer, acrylic acid / alkyl methacrylate copolymer, sodium acrylate / sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, alkyl acrylate / alkyl methacrylate / polyoxyethylene stearyl methacrylate (20 E.O.) copolymer emulsion, polyvinyl alcohol, polyvinyl methyl ether, polyvinylpyrrolidone, polyacrylamide, polyethylene oxide, ethylene oxide / propylene oxide block copolymer, and other synthetic polymers; commercially available products include, for example, CARBOPOL 940, 941, 980, 981 (carbomer; manufactured by Lubrizol Advanced Materials Inc.), PEMULEN TR-1, TR-2, CARBOPOL POLYMER, 1342 POLYMER, 1382 POLYMER (acrylates / alkyl acrylate (C10-C30) crosspolymer; manufactured by Lubrizol Advanced Materials Inc.), and SIMULGEL. Examples include EG (acrylic acid / sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer; manufactured by SEPPIC), ACULYN 22 (alkyl acrylate / steareth-20 methacrylate copolymer; manufactured by ROHM GmbH), and ARISTFLEX AVC ((ammonium dimethyltaurate acrylate / vinylpyrrolidone) copolymer; manufactured by Clariant Japan). Examples of semi-synthetic polymer compounds include polymers composed of glucose such as methyl cellulose, ethyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl cellulose, carboxymethyl cellulose, methyl hydroxypropyl cellulose, carboxymethyl starch, methyl starch, etc., and semi-synthetic polymers such as propylene glycol alginate and heparin-like substances. Furthermore, examples of natural polymer compounds include gellan gum composed of glucose, glucuronic acid, rhamnose, etc., succinoglucan composed of glucose, galactose, succinic acid, pyruvic acid, etc., silokitoge polysaccharide composed of mannose, xylose, glucuronic acid, etc., locust bean gum of galactomannan, tara gum, guar gum, carrageenan composed of galactose, etc., suisendinori polysaccharide composed of sulfated muramic acid, glucose, galactose, xylose, fucose, etc., tuberose polysaccharide composed of mannose, glucuronic acid, arabinose, arabinose, galactose, etc., xanthan gum composed of mannose and glucuronic acid, etc., sclerotium gum of branched polysaccharide with glucose as the backbone, gelatin, quince seed, pullulan, collagen, gum arabic, mannan, starch, dextran, casein, albumin, hyaluronic acid, chondroitin sulfate or its sulfate, etc., and natural polymers such as heparin-like substances. Examples of water-swellable clay minerals include smectite-type clay minerals such as bentonite, montmorillonite, heidellite, hectorite, saponite, stibnite, etc., kaolin, and swelling mica introduced with fluorine. These water-swellable clay minerals can be either of natural origin or synthetic products. For example, those mainly composed of magnesium aluminum silicate, sodium magnesium silicate, etc.
[0018] Component (C) of the present invention is preferably a synthetic polymer compound as the water-soluble polymer, and more specifically, a carboxyvinyl polymer or (acrylates / alkyl acrylate (C10-C30)) crosspolymer is preferred, and an alkyl-modified carboxyvinyl polymer having the function of holding oil is more preferred. Examples of commercially available water-soluble polymers of such component (C) include Carbopol 980 and Carbopol 1382 (both manufactured by LUBRIZOL). Furthermore, among water-swellable clay minerals, magnesium aluminum silicate is particularly preferred. Examples of commercially available water-swellable clay minerals include Smecton SA-2, SA, SWN, SWF, and Kunipia G4 (manufactured by Kunimine Industries Co., Ltd.). These may be contained individually or in combination of two or more. Including these is preferable because it can further enhance the shape retention and disintegration properties in granulated compositions, and the coverage in cosmetics.
[0019] The content of component (C) in the composition is not particularly limited, but the lower limit is preferably 0.2% or more, more preferably 0.5% or more, and even more preferably 1% or more. The upper limit is preferably 3% or less, more preferably 2% or less, and even more preferably 1.5% or less. This range is preferable from the viewpoint of shape retention and disintegration properties as a granulated composition. The content of component (C) in the cosmetic is not particularly limited, but the lower limit is preferably 0.1% or more, more preferably 0.25% or more, and even more preferably 0.5% or more. The upper limit is preferably 3% or less, more preferably 2% or less, and even more preferably 1.5% or less. This range is preferable from the viewpoint of coverage and filling moldability as a cosmetic.
[0020] In this invention, the mass ratio (B) / (C) of component (B) and component (C) is not particularly limited, but the lower limit is preferably 0.3 or higher, more preferably 2.5 or higher, and even more preferably 5.3 or higher. The upper limit is preferably 150 or lower, more preferably 40 or lower, and even more preferably 15 or lower. Within this range, among the various effects, the balance between the longevity of the cosmetic in terms of its ability to handle sweat and sebum, and the coverage power are particularly improved, making it preferable.
[0021] The present invention can be used in combination with component (D) metal soap. The metal soap in the present invention is not particularly limited as long as it is a metal soap commonly used in cosmetics, and its general formula is (RCOO)nM (wherein R represents an aliphatic hydrocarbon group having 10 to 18 carbon atoms, and M is a divalent or trivalent metal such as aluminum, zinc, magnesium, calcium, or iron. n is 1 or more and is limited to the valence of the metal M, but is not necessarily the same as the valence of M. One or more of these can be used. In particular, from the viewpoint of coverage, zinc salts, aluminum salts, calcium salts, and magnesium salts of stearic acid, palmitic acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, or behenic acid are preferred, zinc salts, aluminum salts, calcium salts, and magnesium salts of lauric acid are more preferred, and zinc laurate is even more preferred. The inclusion of component (D) is preferred because it has the effect of further enhancing filling moldability and coverage.
[0022] The content of component (D) is not particularly limited, but the lower limit is preferably 0.2% or more, more preferably 0.6% or more, and even more preferably 0.8% or more. The upper limit is preferably 2% or less, more preferably 1.5% or less, and even more preferably 1.2% or less. This range is preferable from the viewpoint of coverage.
[0023] The method for producing the disintegrating granular composition of the present invention is not particularly limited. For example, a disintegrating granular composition can be obtained by mixing component (A), component (B), and optionally component (C), component (D), and other components using a conventional method, pulverizing and granulating the mixture using a granulator or the like, and drying it in a dryer or the like to remove the solvent. It is preferable to include a step of drying and granulating using water as the solvent, as this can adjust the shape retention and disintegration properties of the granular composition. Furthermore, it is even more preferable to pre-mix component (C), component (B), and water, add the dispersion to a powder layer containing component (A) to create a granular composition, and then dry it. When this method is used, the dispersibility of component (B) or (C) may be improved, and it is preferable to select them as appropriate. Granulation methods include, for example, agitation granulation using a super mixer, extrusion granulation using a granulation grinder, and spray drying. Equipment used for granulation includes, for example, a super mixer (SMP-2 / manufactured by Kawata Co., Ltd.) and a disc atomizer (Spray Dryer SD12 / manufactured by Mitsui Mining Co., Ltd.). When obtaining a disintegrating granular composition with large particle sizes, agitation granulation is preferred, and when obtaining a disintegrating granular composition with small particle sizes, fluidized bed granulation is preferred. Furthermore, in granulation grinding, the disintegrating granular composition can be adjusted to the desired particle size by selecting the screen diameter according to the desired particle size. Any of these granulation methods can be selected according to the desired particle size. The disintegrating granular composition of the present invention is preferably obtained by mixing component (A), dissolved component (B), and optionally components (C) and (D), granulating the mixture, and then removing the water by vacuum suction, drying, or the like.
[0024] In this invention, a disintegrating granulated composition is obtained by granulating powder and disintegrates easily upon external stimuli such as pressure. Disintegration in this invention means that, using a static / dynamic friction measuring instrument TL201Tt (manufactured by Trinity Lab. Inc.), when a force is applied in a vertical direction to each grain of the granulated composition (average of 10 grains) using a conical adapter with a diameter of 5 mm at a speed of 2 mm / second, the maximum vertical stress required for disintegration is less than 3 gf.
[0025] Furthermore, the average particle size of the disintegrating granulated composition of the present invention is the value (median diameter D50) obtained by taking an image with a stereomicroscope when the granulated composition is arranged in a single layer without overlapping or disintegrating, and measuring it with an image analysis device (Luzex AP, manufactured by Nireco Corporation), and refers to the longest diameter of the particles. The lower limit of the average particle size of the disintegrating granulated composition of the present invention is 0.5 mm or more, preferably 0.6 mm or more, more preferably 1 mm or more, and even more preferably 1.5 mm or more. The upper limit is 4.0 mm or less, preferably 3.5 mm or less, more preferably 3 mm or less, and even more preferably 2.5 mm or less. Within this range, it is preferable from the viewpoint of shape retention and disintegration as a granulated composition, fillability as a cosmetic, and appearance aesthetics.
[0026] Furthermore, the cosmetic composition using the disintegrating granular composition of the present invention preferably contains 50% or more of the disintegrating granular composition of the present invention, more preferably 80% or more, and preferably 100% or less as the upper limit. This range is preferable because it is superior in terms of appearance and aesthetics. There are no particular restrictions on the type of cosmetic composition as long as it has an appearance and aesthetics in which the presence of the disintegrating granular composition can be visually confirmed in the cosmetic composition. In particular, a powdered solid cosmetic composition is preferable because it has superior appearance and allows the shape retention and disintegration properties of the granular composition to be utilized.
[0027] Furthermore, the method for producing a solid powder cosmetic using the disintegrating granular composition of the present invention is not particularly limited. Examples include filling a container with one or preferably two or more disintegrating granular compositions and then dry-compressing them, or mixing them with a solvent to form a slurry and then wet-filling it. Dry-compression molding is particularly preferred because it enhances the packing and molding effect of the present invention. Specifically, this method is preferred because it makes it easier to achieve a smooth packing and molding on the press surface after packing and molding. If the granular composition is too hard, i.e., has poor disintegration properties, air may not escape easily, and swelling due to internal stress may occur. Furthermore, the press pressure during dry-compression molding should be 20-30 kg / cm². 2This is more preferable in that it further enhances the above-mentioned effects. In particular, in the present invention, when a solid powder cosmetic contains powder or other components in addition to the disintegrating granular composition, the disintegrating granular composition and the powder or other components may be mixed and filled into a container. Furthermore, it is preferable to use a combination of two or more disintegrating granular compositions with different colors or textures, as this allows the colors to be scattered and further enhances the aesthetic appearance. It is also possible to mix them in advance before filling into a container.
[0028] The disintegrating granular composition of the present invention may contain, in addition to the above-mentioned components (A) to (D), components commonly used in cosmetics, such as water-swellable clay minerals of component (A) and component (C), powders other than component (D), oily components other than component (B), aqueous components other than the water-soluble polymer of component (C), surfactants, ultraviolet absorbers, humectants, antioxidants, beauty ingredients, sugars, preservatives, fragrances, etc., as long as they do not interfere with the effects of the present invention.
[0029] The powders other than the water-swellable clay minerals of components (A) and (C) and component (D) are not particularly limited as long as they are commonly used in cosmetics. For example, they are not particularly limited in terms of shape such as spindle-shaped, needle-shaped, fibrous, or spherical; particle size such as aerosol, fine particles, or pigment grade; and particle structure such as porous or non-porous. Inorganic powders, organic powders, pigment powders, and composite powders can all be used. Such powders are not particularly limited, but specifically include inorganic powders such as talc, boron nitride, barium sulfate, silicon carbide, zinc oxide, aluminum oxide, anhydrous silicic acid, magnesium oxide, zirconium oxide, magnesium carbonate, calcium carbonate, calcium sulfate, chromium oxide, chromium hydroxide, iron oxide, Prussian blue, ultramarine blue, red iron oxide, and carbon black; organic powders such as nylon powder, N-acyllysine silicone powder, polymethyl methacrylate powder, and urethane powder; organic pigment powders such as Red 201, Red 202, Red 205, Red 226, Red 228, Orange 203, Orange 204, Blue 404, and Yellow 401; and organic pigment powders such as zirconium, barium, or aluminum lake, such as Red 3, Red 104, Red 106, Orange 205, Yellow 4, Yellow 5, Green 3, and Blue 1. One or more of these can be used. Furthermore, these powders may be used as a single or composite of two or more types, and may be surface-treated using known methods with fluorine compounds, silicone oils, surfactants, oils and fats, hydrocarbons, etc.
[0030] Furthermore, the mass ratio of component (A) to the total amount of powder containing component (A), (A) / total amount of powder, is not particularly limited, but the lower limit is preferably 0.23 or higher, more preferably 0.47 or higher, and even more preferably 0.64 or higher, while the upper limit is preferably 0.95 or lower, more preferably 0.93 or lower, and even more preferably 0.83 or lower. This range is preferable from the viewpoint of coverage.
[0031] Other oily components besides component (B) are not particularly limited as long as they are commonly used in cosmetics, and may include hydrocarbons, fats and oils, waxes, hydrogenated oils, ester oils, fatty acids, higher alcohols, silicone oils, fluorinated oils, lanolin derivatives, oily gelling agents, etc., regardless of their origin (animal oils, vegetable oils, synthetic oils, etc.) or their properties (solid oils, liquid oils, volatile oils, etc.).
[0032] Furthermore, the ratio of component (B) to the total amount of oil containing component (B) (B) / total amount of oil is not particularly limited, but the lower limit is preferably 0.16 or higher, more preferably 0.5 or higher, and even more preferably 0.6 or higher. The upper limit is preferably 1 or lower, more preferably 0.85 or lower, and even more preferably 0.66 or lower. This range is preferable from the viewpoint of shape retention.
[0033] Examples of the solid powder cosmetic composition of the present invention include makeup cosmetics and skincare cosmetics, and various cosmetic forms can be used depending on the purpose. More specifically, examples of solid powder cosmetic compositions include foundation, blush, face powder, eyeshadow, eyeliner, eyebrow powder, and body powder. While not particularly limited, blush, eyeshadow, and eyebrow powder are preferred, with blush and eyeshadow being more preferred. Furthermore, it is preferable to mix two or more disintegrating granular compositions of different colors and textures to enhance the appearance and aesthetic appeal. [Examples]
[0034] The present invention will be described in more detail below with reference to examples. However, these examples do not limit the present invention in any way.
[0035] Granulated Composition Examples 1-26 and Comparative Examples 1-4: Disintegrating Granulated Compositions (Tables 1 and 2) The disintegrating granular compositions shown in Tables 1 and 2 were prepared and evaluated for a. shape retention and b. disintegration using the following evaluation methods.
[0036] Cosmetic Examples 1-26 and Comparative Examples 1-4: Powdered Solid Eyeshadow (Tables 1 and 2) Furthermore, eyeshadows were prepared by combining the disintegrating granular compositions shown in Tables 1 and 2, and evaluated and determined the following aspects: c. makeup longevity, d. coverage, e. filling and moldability, and f. aesthetic appearance. The results for a and b are shown at the top of Tables 1 and 2, and for c, d, e, and f are shown at the bottom of Tables 1 and 2.
[0037] [Table 1] *1: HELIOS R10S (manufactured by Topi Industries Co., Ltd.) *2: TWINCLE PEARL 310 (manufactured by Nippon Koken Co., Ltd.) *3: TWINCLE PEARL 410 (manufactured by Nippon Koken Co., Ltd.) *4: HELIOS R100S (manufactured by Topi Industries Co., Ltd.) *5: HELIOS R300S (manufactured by Topi Industries Co., Ltd.) *6: FLAMENCO SPARKLE RED 420J (BASF) *7: Cosmoll 168ARNV (manufactured by Nisshin Oillio Group Co., Ltd.) *8: Organic refined shea butter (manufactured by Koei Kogyo Co., Ltd.) *9: SOFTISAN 649 (manufactured by SASOL GERMANY GMBH) *10: Saracos 334 (manufactured by Nisshin Oillio Group) *11: PLANDOOL-LG4 (manufactured by Nippon Seika Co., Ltd.) *12: Eldew PS-304 (manufactured by Ajinomoto Co., Inc.) *13: Super Nucore H (manufactured by NOF Corporation) *17: Smecton SA-2 (manufactured by Kunimine Industries Co., Ltd.) *19: KF-96-10CS (manufactured by Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd.) *20: Powder Base L (manufactured by NOF Corporation)
[0038] [Table 2] *14: SNOW WHITE SPECIAL (manufactured by SONNEBORN, LLC) *15: PARACERA256 (manufactured by PARAMELT) *16: WHITE BEES WAX (manufactured by Miki Chemical Co., Ltd.) *18: Carbopol 1382 (manufactured by Lubriol)
[0039] (Method for producing granulated compositions: Table 1, Table 2) A. Mix ingredients (1) to (7) and (21) to (24) uniformly. B. Dissolve components (8) to (17) uniformly at 65°C. C. Disperse components (18) to (19) and component (20) by adding B. Mix DA, C, and component (25). After granulating the ED in a super mixer, it is ground using a speed mill (screen diameter 2 mmφ, however, for granulated compositions Examples 19 and 20, the screen diameter is 4 mm). The FE was dried at 70°C for 10 hours to obtain a granulated composition.
[0040] (Cosmetics using each granulation composition: Method for producing powdered solid eyeshadow: Tables 1 and 2) A. The granulated composition (and other components) is uniformly mixed and filled into a metal tray. BA was compressed and molded to obtain a powdered solid eyeshadow.
[0041] (Evaluation method for granulated compositions) i. Shape retention Shape retention refers to the minimum hardness required for a granulated composition to maintain a certain shape before filling, making it suitable for use in cosmetics. 3g of each of Granulated Composition Examples 1-25 and Granulated Composition Comparative Examples 1-4 were placed in centrifuge tubes and shaken for 10 minutes using a shaker (Yayoi YS-8D) with a stroke width of 80mm and 180 reciprocations per minute. Each sample was then passed through a 600μm mesh, and the weight of the sample that did not pass through was measured to calculate the retention rate. Shape retention was then determined according to the following criteria. The retention rate was calculated using the weight of the material that did not pass through the 600μm mesh as the numerator and the amount of material added as the denominator. (Judgment criteria) (Judgment): (Survival rate) ◎: 70% or more ○: 50% or more but less than 70% △: 30% or more but less than 50% ×: Less than 30%
[0042] b. Disintegration Disintegration refers to the upper limit of hardness required for a granulated composition to be included in a cosmetic, deformable during filling, and disintegrate during use. Disintegration was evaluated for each of the granulated composition examples 1-25 and comparative examples 1-4 using a static / dynamic friction measuring instrument TL201Tt (manufactured by Trinity Lab. Inc.). Using a 5 mm diameter conical adapter, the maximum vertical stress required for disintegration was measured when a force was applied perpendicularly to one granulated composition particle at a speed of 2 mm / second, and this was evaluated as disintegration. The above measurement was repeated three times for each sample, and the average maximum stress value was judged according to the following criteria. Judgment criteria: [Judgment]: [Average maximum stress value] ○: Less than 3gf × :3gf or more
[0043] (Evaluation method for cosmetics containing granulated compositions) H. Makeup longevity Cosmetic Examples 1-25 and Cosmetic Comparative Examples 1-4 were each applied in 0.1g portions to a 2cm x 3cm area of black artificial leather (manufactured by Ideatex Japan Co., Ltd.). Then, 0.5ml of simulated sebum was dropped onto the area, and after 1 minute, the area was rubbed five times with a tissue. The condition of the cosmetic film was visually evaluated, and the area of black where the film had peeled off was noted. Sebum resistance was determined according to the following criteria. An example of the evaluation results is shown in the figure. (Judgment criteria) (Judgment): (Evaluation) ◎: The remaining makeup film on the rubbed area is 80% or more. ○: The remaining percentage of the cosmetic film on the rubbed area is between 50% and 80%. △: The remaining percentage of the cosmetic film on the rubbed area is between 20% and 50%. ×: Less than 20% of the cosmetic film remains on the rubbed area.
[0044] 2. Coverage The surface color of unused molded products filled with cosmetic examples 1-25 and cosmetic comparative examples 1-4, and the surface color (L*a*b*) after applying 0.1g to a 2cm x 3cm area of artificial leather (manufactured by Ideatex Japan Co., Ltd.) were measured using a colorimeter (manufactured by Nippon Denshoku Co., Ltd.), and the color difference ΔE was calculated to determine the coverage according to the following criteria. (Judgment criteria) (Judgment): (Evaluation) ◎ :ΔE≧55 〇 :55>ΔE≧50 △ :50>ΔE≧45 × :45>ΔE
[0045] E. Filling and molding properties Cosmetic composition examples 1-25 and cosmetic composition comparative examples 1-4 were each filled with 10g of each into a circular metal dish with a diameter of 6cm and a thickness of 5mm. They were then automatically pressed at 200N at a speed of 3cm / second for 1.5 seconds, and after release, the swelling was observed after 1 hour. The filling moldability was then determined according to the following evaluation criteria. Five pieces were pressed, and the worst-pressed piece was evaluated. Swelling is a phenomenon that occurs when the granulated composition does not collapse sufficiently during pressing and attempts to return to its original shape when the pressure is removed. It was used as an indicator to confirm the filling moldability of the granulated composition. (Judgment criteria) (Judgment): (Evaluation) ◎: No swelling. ○: Less than 0.1 cm from the surface and almost no bulge. △: There is a bulge of 0.1 cm or more but less than 1 cm from the surface. ×: There is a bulge of 1 cm or more from the surface.
[0046] To, the aesthetic appearance Cosmetic Examples 1-25 and Cosmetic Comparative Examples 1-4 were each subjected to usage tests by a panel of 20 cosmetic experts. All evaluators visually assessed each sample, evaluating whether the granulated composition's shape remained clearly defined and filled, and whether the boundaries were blended. Each evaluator assigned a score on a 5-point scale according to the following evaluation criteria, and the average score from all panel members was calculated to determine the aesthetic appearance according to the following criteria. (Evaluation Criteria) (Rating): (Content) 4: Very good 3: Quite good 2: Good 1: Bad 0: Very bad (Judgment criteria) (Judgment): (Average score) ◎: 3 points or more ○: 2 points or more but less than 3 points △: 1 point or more but less than 2 points ×: Less than 1 point [Brief explanation of the drawing]
[0047] [Figure 1] Cosmetic film images evaluating the longevity of cosmetic product example 1 and cosmetic comparison examples 1 and 2. [Figure 2] Photographs evaluating the filling and molding properties of cosmetic example 8 and cosmetic comparative example 3, both containing 100% single-color granulated composition. [Figure 3] Excellent appearance and aesthetics: Surface appearance photograph of Example 27 of a granulated composition, a multi-color mixed cosmetic.
[0048] As is clear from the results in Tables 1 and 2, the granulated compositions of the present invention, Examples 1 to 26, were excellent in all aspects of shape retention and disintegration. In contrast, Comparative Example 1, which did not contain component (B), was weak against external stimuli and had poor shape retention. Furthermore, Comparative Example 2, which used a non-polar semi-solid ester oil instead of component (B), and Comparative Examples 3 and 4, which used solid oil, had good shape retention but poor disintegration.
[0049] Furthermore, the eyeshadows of cosmetic examples 1 to 26, made using 100% of each of the granulated composition examples 1 to 26, were excellent in all aspects of makeup longevity, coverage, filling and moldability, and aesthetic appearance, as is clear from the results in Tables 1 and 2. In contrast, cosmetic comparative example 1 was particularly inferior in terms of makeup longevity, coverage, and aesthetic appearance. Cosmetic comparative example 2 was inferior in makeup longevity, and cosmetic comparative examples 3 and 4 were inferior in makeup longevity, coverage, and filling and moldability.
[0050] Cosmetic Examples 27-36: Powdered Solid Eyeshadow (Table 3) Furthermore, as shown in Table 3, eyeshadows were prepared by separately combining disintegrating granular compositions (and other components), and evaluations were made for C, D, E, and F based on the same evaluation method.
[0051] [Table 3] *22: SA-Talc JA-46R (manufactured by Miyoshi Chemical Co., Ltd.)
[0052] (Methods for producing eyeshadow using each granulation composition: Table 3) A. Mix ingredients (1) to (10) uniformly and fill the gold dish. The BA was compressed and molded to obtain eyeshadow.
[0053] As is clear from the results in Table 3, the eyeshadows of cosmetic examples 27-36 were excellent in all aspects, including makeup longevity, coverage, filling and molding properties, and aesthetic appearance.
[0054] Example 37: Blush (Ingredients) (%) 1. Talc (average particle size 15 μm) remaining amount 2. Titanium dioxide-coated synthetic fluorphlogopite (average particle size 40 μm) *3 2 3. Borosilicate (Calcium Al)*21 5 4. Zinc oxide (average particle size 1 μm) 2 5. Alkyl polyacrylate*23 0.5 6. Titanium dioxide (average particle size 0.25 μm) 0.1 7. Yellow iron oxide 0.2 8. Carmine 0.2 9. Zinc laurate * 20 0.2 10. Hexa(hydroxystearic acid / stearic acid / rosinic acid)dipentaerythrityl*7 4 11. Mineral oil 2 12. Aluminum magnesium silicate *17 0.5 13. Disintegrating Granulated Composition Example 1 80 *21: Microglass Metashine MT1120RS (manufactured by Nippon Sheet Glass Co., Ltd.) *23:MR-5C (manufactured by Soken Chemical Co., Ltd.)
[0055] (Manufacturing method) A. Mix ingredients (1) to (9) uniformly. B. Dissolve components (10) to (12) uniformly at 60°C. CA and B are mixed with 20% purified water in a super mixer and granulated, then ground using a speed mill (screen diameter 1.5 mm). DC was dried at 70°C for 10 hours to obtain a disintegrating granulated composition with an average particle size of 1.5 mm. Mix ED and component (13) uniformly and fill into a gold dish. FE was compressed and molded to obtain blush.
[0056] The resulting blush used a disintegrating granular composition with excellent shape retention and disintegration properties, resulting in superior makeup retention, coverage, aesthetic appearance, and filling / molding properties of the applied film.
[0057] Example 38: Eyebrow (Ingredients) (%) 1. Talc (average particle size 20 μm) remaining amount 2. Titanium dioxide-coated synthetic fluorphlogopite (average particle size 40 μm) *3 5 3. Borosilicate (Calcium Al)*21 5 4. Zinc oxide (average particle size 0.3 μm) 2 5. Alkyl polyacrylate*23 1 6. Synthetic wax *24 1 7. Red No. 226 0.5 8. Black iron oxide 0.5 9. Tri(caprylic / capric / myristic / stearic) glyceryl*10 5 10. Dimethicone * 25 5 11. Avocado oil * 26 0.1 12. (Acrylates / C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate) Crosspolymer*18 2 13. Disintegrating Granulated Composition Example 3 35 14. Disintegrating Granulated Composition Example 5 35 *24: Fischer-Tropsch Wax *25: KF-96A (6CS) (manufactured by Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd.) *26: NIKKOL Refined Avocado Oil (manufactured by Nikko Chemicals Co., Ltd.)
[0058] (Manufacturing method) A. Mix ingredients (1) to (8) uniformly. B. Dissolve components (9) to (12) uniformly at 60°C. CA and B are mixed with 15% purified water in a super mixer and granulated, then ground using a speed mill (screen diameter 1.0 mm). DC was dried at 70°C for 10 hours to obtain a disintegrating granulated composition with an average particle size of 1.0 mm. Mix ED and components (13) to (14) uniformly and lightly, then fill into a gold dish. FE was compression molded to obtain eyebrows.
[0059] The resulting eyebrow product used a disintegrating granular composition with excellent shape retention and disintegration properties, and exhibited superior makeup retention, coverage, aesthetic appearance, and filling / molding capabilities of the applied film.
[0060] Example 39: Eyeshadow (Ingredients) (%) 1. Light isoparaffin*27 remaining amount 2. Trimethylsiloxiliate *28 5 3. Dimethicone*25 10 4. (Dimethicone / Vinyl Dimethicone) Crosspolymer*29 10 5. Disintegrating Granulated Composition Example 5 30 6. Disintegrating Granulated Composition Example 10 30 *27: ISODODECANE (manufactured by IMCD Corporation) *28: X-21-5589 (manufactured by Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd.) *29: Silicone KSG-6 (manufactured by Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd.)
[0061] (Manufacturing method) A. Mix ingredients (1) to (4) uniformly. Mix BA and ingredients (5) to (6) uniformly and fill into a container. The CB was molded and dried to obtain eyeshadow.
[0062] The resulting eyeshadow used a disintegrating granular composition with excellent shape retention and disintegration properties, and exhibited superior makeup retention, coverage, aesthetic appearance, and filling / molding properties of the coated film.
Claims
1. The following components (A) and (B); (A) Glitter powder 40-80% by mass (B) A semi-solid ester oil at 25°C, wherein the oil is 1 to 30% by mass of one or more selected from N-acyl amino acid esters, glycerin fatty acid esters, dimer acid esters, dipentaerythritol fatty acid esters, fatty acid cholesteryl esters, and fatty acid phytosteryl esters. A disintegrating granular composition containing the above, with an average particle size of 0.5 to 4.0 mm.
2. The disintegrating granular composition according to claim 1, further containing 0.2 to 3% by mass of one or more selected from water-soluble polymers and water-swellable clay minerals as component (C).
3. The disintegrating granular composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the mass ratio of component (A) to component (B), component (A) / component (B), is 1 to 100.
4. The disintegrating granular composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein component (B) is one or more selected from shea butter, tri(caprylic / capric / myristic / stearic acid) glyceryl, hexa(hydroxystearate / stearic acid / rosin acid) dipentaerythrityl, bis-diglyceryl polyacyladipate-2, laurolyl glutamate di(octyldodecyl / phytosteryl / behenyl), hydrogenated coconut oil, and hydrogenated palm oil. 。
5. The disintegrating granular composition according to claim 2, wherein component (C) is one or more selected from (acrylates / alkyl acrylate (C10-C30)) crosspolymer and magnesium aluminum silicate.
6. A method for producing the disintegrating granular composition described in claim 1, A method for producing the disintegrating granular composition, comprising the step of further granulating the components (A) and (B) using water as a solvent.
7. A cosmetic composition containing 50 to 100% by mass of the disintegrating granular composition described in any one of claims 1 to 5.
8. The cosmetic composition according to claim 7, which is a powder cosmetic composition.