Composition comprising an extract of the grifola frondosa mushroom, a monosaccharide, a GHK tripeptide and a GQPR tetrapeptide

Abstract

The present invention relates to a composition, in particular a cosmetic composition, comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium: (i) at least one extract of Grifola frondosa; (ii) at least one monosaccharide; (iii) at least one N-Palmitoyl-Gly-His-Lys tripeptide; and (iv) at least one N-Palmitoyl-Gly-Gln-Pro-Arg tetrapeptide of sequence SEQ ID NO: 1. It also relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic process for caring for keratin materials, in particular the skin, comprising the topical application to these keratin materials of a composition according to the invention, or the use thereof for preventing and / or treating the signs of skin ageing.

Description

[0001] Description

[0002] Composition comprising an extract of the Grifola frondosa mushroom, a monosaccharide, a GHK tripeptide and a GQPR tetrapeptide

[0003] Technical field

[0004] The present invention relates to the field of caring for keratin materials, in particular of skin care.

[0005] In particular, the present invention relates to a composition, in particular a cosmetic composition, comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one extract of the Grifola frondosa mushroom, at least one monosaccharide, at least one N-Palmitoyl-Gly-His- Lys tripeptide, and at least one N-Palmitoyl-Gly-Gln-Pro-Arg tetrapeptide of sequence SEQ ID NO: 1.

[0006] It also relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic process for caring for keratin materials, in particular the skin, comprising the topical application to these keratin materials of a composition according to the invention, or the use thereof for preventing and / or treating the signs of skin ageing.

[0007] Prior art

[0008] Human skin is constituted of three compartments, namely a superficial compartment, which is the epidermis, the dermis and a deep compartment, which is the hypodermis.

[0009] The dermis is mainly constituted of fibroblasts and an extracellular matrix (ECM). This extracellular matrix is constituted of various macromolecules responsible for the mechanical strength of the skin, for its suppleness, for its tonicity and for its elasticity, and also for the important physiological functions (moisturization, thermoregulation and regulation of skin permeability). Included among these macromolecules are in particular collagens, elastin and glycoconjugates (glycoproteins and proteoglycans).

[0010] Collagen is the most abundant protein in the skin, representing about 75-80% of its dry mass (Tzaphlidou M. The role of collagen and elastin in aged skin: An image processing approach. Micron. 2004; 35(3): 173-7). This means that when water is removed from the equation, the vast majority of the residual skin composition is collagen. Collagen is a major constituent of connective tissue and is essential for maintaining the structure and mechanical properties of the skin.

[0011] There are several types of collagens in the skin that can be divided into 4 large families, fibrillary collagens (collagens I and III), which are the most predominant, initiator collagens, such as collagen V, which will adjust the mechanical properties of the fibre, FACIT collagens which structure the network and, finally, anchoring collagens such as collagens IV and VII.

[0012] With age, the amount of collagen in the skin decreases in response to a reduction in its natural production, including type I and type III collagens (Fligiel SE, Varani J, Datta SC, Kang S, Fisher GJ, Voorhees JJ. Collagen degradation in aged / photodamaged skin in vivo and after exposure to matrix metalloproteinase- 1 in vitro. J Invest Dermatol. 2003 May; 120(5): 842- 8), and, in response to an increase in the enzymes involved in collagen degradation, such as MMP-1 (Varani J, Warner RL, Gharaee-Kermani M, Phan SH, Kang S, Chung JH, Wang ZQ, Datta SC, Fisher GJ, Voorhees JJ. Vitamin A antagonizes decreased cell growth and elevated collagen-degrading matrix metalloproteinases and stimulates collagen accumulation in naturally aged human skin. J Invest Dermatol. 2000 Mar; 114(3): 480-6). The area occupied by collagen is therefore significantly reduced as a function of age, both in the papillary dermis and in the reticular dermis. Changes in the thickness and orientation of collagen bundles are also observed (Marcos-Garces V, Molina Aguilar P, Bea Serrano C, Garcia Bustos V, Benavent Segui J, Ferrandez Izquierdo A, Ruiz-Sauri A. Age-related dermal collagen changes during development, maturation and ageing - a morphometric and comparative study. J Anat. 2014 Jul; 225(1): 98-108). This loss of collagen, which impairs the structural properties of the collagen network, has a major impact on the appearance and structure of the skin and is responsible for a loss of firmness and elasticity and also the appearance of wrinkles and fine lines (Batisse D, Bazin R, Baldeweck T, Querleux B, Leveque JL. Influence of age on the wrinkling capacities of skin. Skin Res Technol. 2002 Aug; 8(3): 148-54, Lynch B, Pageon H, Le Blay H, Brizion S, Bastien P, Bornschlbgl T, Domanov Y. A mechanistic view on the aging human skin through ex vivo layer-by-layer analysis of mechanics and microstructure of facial and mammary dermis. SCI Rep. 2022 Jan 17; 12(1): 849). A wide variety of cosmetic products has been used to care for the skin, for example, to resist skin ageing by stimulating collagen production. However, some cosmetic products on the market are not satisfactory for combating skin ageing.

[0013] Thus, it is still necessary to formulate a composition for caring for the skin that can effectively combat skin ageing.

[0014] Disclosure of the invention

[0015] The aim of the present invention is to solve the abovementioned technical problem.

[0016] Indeed, the inventors have now discovered that the combination of an extract of the Grifola frondosa mushroom, rhamnose, an N-Palmitoyl-Gly-His-Lys tripeptide, and an N- Palmitoyl-Gly-Gln-Pro-Arg tetrapeptide allows a strong stimulation of the expression of collagen III, thus confirming its effectiveness for the prevention and / or treatment of skin ageing. Since this effect is much greater than that observed with each of the starting materials alone or the sum of the effects of each of the starting materials alone, these results demonstrate in particular a synergistic activity between the extract of the Grifola frondosa mushroom, rhamnose, the N-Palmitoyl-Gly-His-Lys tripeptide, and the N-Palmitoyl-Gly- Gln-Pro-Arg tetrapeptide.

[0017] Summary of the invention

[0018] As mentioned above, the present invention thus relates to a composition, particularly a cosmetic composition, comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium:

[0019] (i) at least one extract of the Grifola frondosa mushroom;

[0020] (ii) at least one monosaccharide;

[0021] (iii) at least one N-Palmitoyl-Gly-His-Lys tripeptide; and

[0022] (iv) at least one N-Palmitoyl-Gly-Gln-Pro-Arg tetrapeptide of sequence SEQ ID NO: 1.

[0023] As illustrated in the examples below, the applicant has discovered, surprisingly, that a composition according to the invention, comprising an extract of the Grifola frondosa mushroom, rhamnose, an N-Palmitoyl-Gly-His-Lys tripeptide, and an N-Palmitoyl-Gly- Gln-Pro-Arg tetrapeptide allows a strong stimulation of collagen III expression, advantageously making it possible to prevent and / or treat the signs of skin ageing. Thus, the present invention also relates to the use of a composition of the invention for preventing and / or treating the signs of skin ageing in an individual in need thereof.

[0024] The invention moreover relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic process for caring for keratin materials, in particular the skin, comprising the topical application to these keratin materials of a composition according to the invention, for preventing and / or treating the signs of skin ageing.

[0025] According to one of its aspects, the present invention relates to the cosmetic, in particular topical, use of a composition according to the invention for preventing and / or treating the signs of skin ageing.

[0026] According to another one of its aspects, the present invention relates to the cosmetic, in particular topical, use of a composition according to the invention as an anti-ageing composition.

[0027] Detailed description

[0028] The term “cosmetic” means a composition that is compatible with keratin materials, in particular the skin, mucous membranes and skin integuments. The composition according to the invention is non-therapeutic.

[0029] The term “keratin materials” in particular means the skin, mucous membranes, fibres, eyelashes and the integuments.

[0030] The term “the skin” means all the skin of the body, and preferably the skin of the face, the scalp, the neckline, the neck, the arms and forearms, the eyelids, around the mouth or behind the ears, the hollow of the elbow, the back of the knees, the hands, the wrists and the ankles, or even more preferably the skin of the face (in particular the forehead, the nose, the cheeks and the chin), the neckline and the neck.

[0031] A composition according to the invention comprises a physiologically acceptable medium, i.e. one which has a pleasant colour, odour and feel and which does not give rise to any unacceptable discomfort, i.e. tingling, tautness or redness, that is liable to discourage the user from applying this composition. Needless to say, a person skilled in the art will take care to choose a physiologically acceptable medium such that the advantageous properties of the combination according to the invention are not, or are not substantially, adversely affected. Thus, by way of illustration, a physiologically acceptable medium may comprise water and / or one or more water-miscible organic solvent(s). A physiologically acceptable medium according to the invention preferentially has a pH between 4 and 8, more particularly between 4.5 and 7.5. Thus, a composition according to the invention can comprise one or more pH adjuster(s).

[0032] As used herein, the terms “treat’ and “treatment” are intended to denote the alleviation of the symptoms associated with a specific disorder or condition and / or the elimination of said symptoms and also the complete disappearance of the disorder or condition in question.

[0033] In the context of the present invention, the terms “preventing” and “prevention” denote the reduction, to a lesser degree, of the risk or probability of occurrence of a given phenomenon. The term “signs of skin ageing” is intended to mean all the modifications of the external appearance of the skin due to ageing, whether the latter is of chronological and / or photoinduced origin.

[0034] By way of example of these modifications considered in the invention, mention may be made of a surface which is not very uniform and less smooth, a thinned epidermis, wrinkles and fine lines, withered skin, a lack of elasticity and / or of tonicity of the skin, thinning of the dermis and / or the degradation of collagen fibres, which leads to the appearance of flaccid, wrinkled skin.

[0035] Preferably, the signs of skin ageing targeted by the invention are chosen from a thinning of the skin, a loss of firmness, a loss of elasticity, a loss of density or a loss of tonicity of the skin, a deterioration of the surface appearance of the skin, the appearance of a marked microrelief of the skin, the appearance of roughness, the formation and / or presence of fine lines and / or of wrinkles, a deterioration of the radiance of the skin complexion, a papery appearance of the skin, a sagging of the skin, or a withering of the skin.

[0036] More preferentially, the signs of skin ageing targeted by the invention are chosen from a loss of firmness, a loss of elasticity, a loss of tonicity of the skin, a deterioration of the surface appearance of the skin, the appearance of a marked microrelief of the skin, the appearance of roughness, the formation and / or presence of fine lines and / or of wrinkles, a deterioration of the radiance of the skin complexion, a papery appearance of the skin, a withering of the skin.

[0037] Even more preferably, the signs of skin ageing targeted by the invention are chosen from a deterioration of the surface appearance of the skin, the appearance of a marked microrelief of the skin, the appearance of roughness, the formation and / or presence of fine lines and / or of wrinkles, a deterioration of the radiance of the skin complexion.

[0038] Extract of the Grifola frondosa mushroom

[0039] The expression “extract of the Grifola frondosa mushroom” is understood to mean both an extract of whole Grifola frondosa mushroom(s) and the constituents of said mushrooms, chosen from the fruiting body, the stem or the mycelium and mixtures thereof. Fruiting bodies are particularly preferred for the extraction of the mushroom for the purposes of the invention.

[0040] An extract of the Grifola frondosa mushroom, also known as Mai take mushroom, and also the process for preparing same are as described in application WO 2002 / 02129.

[0041] The extracts to be used according to the invention are obtained from higher fungi of the Basidiomycetes genus, in particular extracts of the Grifola frondosa, mushroom, also called Maitake. This mushroom is a “support” mushroom, also called base mushroom. These mushrooms have a great advantage, as they can be grown in large amounts. Availability is very high and seasonally independent.

[0042] The extracts to be used according to the invention are prepared by conventional extraction processes. As regards suitable conventional extraction processes, such as maceration, remaceration, digestion, stirring maceration, vortex extraction, ultrasonic extraction, countercurrent extraction, percolation, repercolation, evacolation (extraction under reduced pressure), diacolation and solid-liquid extraction under continuous reflux, which is carried out in a Soxhlet extractor, that are known to a person skilled in the art and can in principle all be used, they can be found, for example, in the Hager’ s manual of pharmaceutical practice (5th edition, vol. 2, pp. 1026-1030, Springer Verlag, Berlin-Heidelberg-New York 1991). Fresh or dried mushrooms or mushroom constituents, preferably dried mushrooms or mushroom constituents, may be used as starting material, but in general the starting material is constituted of mushrooms or mushroom constituents which are mechanically ground before extraction. For this purpose, all grinding methods known to a person skilled in the art, for example grinding with a mortar, are suitable. The solvents that can preferably be used to carry out the extractions are water, organic solvents or mixtures of organic solvents and water, in particular low-molecular-weight alcohols, hydrocarbons, ketones, esters or halogenated hydrocarbons having more or less high water contents (distilled or undistilled), preferably aqueous, alcoholic solutions having a temperature of greater than or equal to 20°C. Extraction with water, methanol, ethanol, hexane, cyclohexane, pentane, acetone, propylene glycols, polyethylene glycols, ethyl acetate, dichloromethane, trichloromethane and mixtures thereof is particularly preferred. Extraction with water, ethanol and mixtures thereof is even more preferred.

[0043] The extraction is generally carried out at a temperature of from 20 to 100°C, preferably from 20 to 85°C, in particular either at the boiling point of the solvent used, or at ambient temperature. In one possible embodiment, the extraction is carried out under an inert gas atmosphere in order to avoid oxidation of the constituents of the extract. The extraction times are adjusted by a person skilled in the art as a function of the starting material, the extraction process, the extraction temperature, the solvent / starting material ratio, etc. After extraction, the crude extracts obtained can be subjected to other customary steps, such as, for example, purification, concentration and / or decolouration. The extracts thus prepared can be subjected, for example, to selective separation of the individual unwanted components. The extraction can be carried out up to any desired degree of extraction, but is generally carried out to exhaustion. Typical yields (= amount of dry matter of the extract relative to the amount of starting material used) during the extraction of dried mushrooms or dried mushroom constituents, which have optionally been defatted, are in the range of from 1.5 to 25%, in particular from 1.9 to 20.3%, by weight. The extracts can then be subjected, for example, to spray drying or freeze drying.

[0044] Preferably, the extract used within the present invention is sold under the name Etemiskin LS 9881® by BASF. According to one embodiment, the extract of the Grifola frondosa mushroom is in the form of a powder in which the amount of the extract is 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the powder, the remainder being maltodextrin.

[0045] An extract of the Grifola frondosa mushroom as previously described may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.001% to 2% by weight of active material relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 0.005% to 1% by weight of active material, and more preferentially ranging from 0.01% to 0.5% by weight of active material relative to the total weight of the composition, for example about 0.01% or 0.02% or 0.05% or 0.25% by weight of active material relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0046] Monosaccharides

[0047] The composition according to the present invention additionally comprises one or more monosaccharides.

[0048] The term “ monosaccharides’" is understood to mean, for the purposes of the present patent application, a monosaccharide sugar comprising at least 3 carbon atoms, preferably at least 5 carbon atoms, of formula CX(H2O)Xwith x an integer greater than or equal to 3, preferably greater than or equal to 5; preferentially, x is greater than or equal to 6; in particular x is of between 5 and 7 inclusive; preferably x = 6; they may be of D or L configuration, and of a or p anomerism, and also their salts and their solvates, such as the hydrates.

[0049] Preferably, the monosaccharide(s) are chosen from mannose, rhamnose, and also their a or P anomers, their optical isomers of L or D configuration, their solvates, such as the hydrates, and mixtures thereof.

[0050] More preferentially, the monosaccharide(s) are chosen from mannose, rhamnose and mixtures thereof, even better still rhamnose.

[0051] Mannose is a monosaccharide (simple non-hydrolysable sugar) constituted of 6 carbon atoms; it is a hexose. Its empirical formula is CeHnOe, the same as that of glucose, of which it is the C2 epimer (that is to say that its spatial configuration is strictly the same as that of glucose, except for the substituent of the 2 carbon, where it is inverted with respect to glucose). Mannose corresponds to the following formula (I), which also encompasses its enantiomers:

[0052] [Chem 1]

[0053] Mannose can also be provided in solvated form (including the hydrates) and in the form of a mixture of D and L stereoisomers referred to as DL-mannose.

[0054] Preferably, the monosaccharide is D-mannose of formula (II) below.

[0055] [Chem 2]

[0056] D-Mannose is naturally present in plants, in particular in certain fruits, including cranberries, or in hardwoods, such as beech and birch.

[0057] As an example of D-mannose suitable for the invention, mention may in particular be made, for example, of the D-mannose sold by Danisco.

[0058] Rhamnose (or 6-deoxymannose) formally constitutes the product of deoxygenation of mannose at Ce. Rhamnose is found in nature in the L form.

[0059] L-rhamnoses are sold, for example, by Danisco.

[0060] Preferably, the monosaccharide is chosen from rhamnose, and also a or p anomers thereof, optical isomers thereof of L or D configuration, solvates thereof such as hydrates, and mixtures thereof. More preferentially, the monosaccharide is L-rhamnose.

[0061] Said monosaccharide may be present in the composition of the invention in a content ranging from 0.01% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 10% by weight and more preferentially from 0.1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. N-Palmitoyl-Gly-His-Lys

[0062] The composition of the present invention preferably comprises N-Palmitoyl-Gly-His-Lys.

[0063] N-Palmitoyl-Gly-His-Lys has a glycine-histidine-lysine (GHK) amino acid sequence. Its chemical name is N-(l-oxohexadecyl)glycyl-L-histidyl-L-lysine, its INCI name is palmitoyl tripeptide-1 and its structure is as follows:

[0064] [Chem 3]

[0065] It is a matrikine signal peptide, which acts on the dermis to promote synthesis of the extracellular matrix such as collagen and glycosaminoglycans, strengthen the dermis, and make the skin thicker, firmer, and wrinkled, soothed and more resistant to UV exposure. Its synthesis is found in CN108218956A and CN114891063B.

[0066] N-Palmitoyl-Gly-His-Lys is sold in particular under the name Matrixyl 3000 by Sederma. Advantageously, the N-palmitoyl-Gly-His-Lys is present in the composition of the present invention in a content ranging from 0.0002 to 200 ppm relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.001 ppm to 100 ppm, more preferentially from 0.005 ppm to 50 ppm, even better still from 0.01 ppm to 10 ppm, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0067] N-Palmitoyl-Gly-Gln-Pro-Arg

[0068] The composition of the present invention comprises N-Palmitoyl-Gly-Gln-Pro-Arg of SEQ ID NO: 1.

[0069] N-Palmitoyl-Gly-Gln-Pro-Arg is known under the INCI name palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7, and has a glycine-glutamine-proline-arginine (GQPR) amino acid sequence. Its chemical name is N-(l-oxohexadecyl)glycyl-L-glutaminyl-L-prolyl-L-arginine. N-Palmitoyl-Gly-Gln-Pro- Arg has the following structure:

[0070] [Chem 4]

[0071] N-Palmitoyl-Gly-Gln-Pro-Arg is an active fragment of IgG immunoglobulins, which fragment can significantly reduce the level of IL-6 inflammatory factor in the cellular inflammation process, in particular in UV-damaged cells, and can reduce the deepening of skin wrinkles caused by inflammation and restore skin vitality.

[0072] Its synthesis is found in CN112830956B.

[0073] N-Palmitoyl-Gly-Gln-Pro-Arg is sold in particular under the name Matrixyl 3000 by Sederma.

[0074] Advantageously, the N-Palmitoyl-Gly-Gln-Pro-Arg of sequence SEQ ID NO: 1 is present in the composition of the present invention in a content ranging from 0.0001 ppm to 100 ppm relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.0005 ppm to 50 ppm, more preferentially from 0.001 ppm to 25 ppm, even better still from 0.005 ppm to 5 ppm, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0075] Physiologically acceptable medium

[0076] Besides the compounds indicated previously, the composition according to the invention comprises a physiologically acceptable medium.

[0077] The term “physiologically acceptable medium" is intended to denote a medium that is particularly suitable for applying a composition of the invention to keratin materials, in particular the skin.

[0078] The physiologically acceptable medium is generally adjusted to the nature of the support onto which the composition has to be applied, and also to the appearance the composition must have when it has to be packaged. The physiologically acceptable medium may comprise water and optionally one or more water-miscible solvent(s).

[0079] According to a preferred embodiment, the compositions of the invention comprise at least 20% by weight of water, in particular at least 40% by weight of water relative to the total weight of said composition.

[0080] Preferentially, the composition according to the invention has a water content ranging from 20% to 95% by weight, even better still from 40% to 90% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0081] A water that is suitable for the invention may be a floral water such as cornflower water and / or a mineral water such as Vittel water, and / or a spring water such as Vichy water or La Roche Posay water.

[0082] Among the water-miscible (at ambient temperature, 20-25°C) organic solvents, mention may be made of alcohols, in particular monovalent alcohols such as ethyl alcohol, isopropyl alcohol, benzyl alcohol and phenylethyl alcohol; diols such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol and caprylyl glycol; and ethers such as ethylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl and monobutyl ethers, propylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl and monobutyl ethers, and butylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl and monobutyl ethers, and glycerol.

[0083] The water-miscible organic solvent(s) may be present in a concentration of from 0.01% to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 20% by weight and more preferably from 1% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0084] The composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one fatty substance such as one or more oil(s).

[0085] According to one embodiment, the composition may comprise from 0.1% to 50% by weight of fatty substance, preferably of oil(s), and preferably from 0.5% to 40% of fatty substance by weight, preferably of oil(s), relative to the total weight of said composition.

[0086] The term “oil” refers to any fatty substance that is in liquid form at ambient temperature (20- 25°C) and at atmospheric pressure. These oils may be of plant, mineral or synthetic origin. As oils that may be used in the composition of the invention, examples that may be mentioned include: hydrocarbon oils of plant origin; synthetic esters and ethers, notably of fatty acids, for instance oils of formulae R1COOR2 and R1OR2 in which R1 represents the residue of a fatty acid comprising from 8 to 29 carbon atoms, and R2 represents a branched or unbranched hydrocarbon chain containing from 3 to 30 carbon atoms; linear or branched hydrocarbons, of mineral or synthetic origin; fatty alcohols having from 8 to 26 carbon atoms; fluoro oils which are partially hydrocarbon-based and / or silicon-based; silicone oils; mixtures thereof.

[0087] In the list of oils mentioned above, a hydrocarbon oil means any oil mainly comprising carbon and hydrogen atoms, and optionally ester, ether, fluoro, carboxylic acid and / or alcohol groups.

[0088] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition used in the context of the invention is a water-in-oil (W / O) or oil-in-water (O / W) emulsion, preferably an oil- in-water (O / W) emulsion. The proportion of fatty substance in the emulsion may range from 0.1% to 50% by weight and preferably from 0.5% to 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0089] The composition may comprise at least one emulsifier. The emulsions generally contain at least one emulsifier chosen from amphoteric, anionic, cationic and non-ionic emulsifiers, used alone or as a mixture, and optionally a coemulsifier. The emulsifiers are appropriately chosen according to the emulsion to be obtained (W / O or O / W).

[0090] The emulsifier and the coemulsifier are generally present in the composition in a proportion ranging from 0.3% to 20% by weight, and preferably from 0.5% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0091] Additives A cosmetic composition according to the invention may also comprise, in addition, any additive normally used in the field in question, for example chosen from gums, resins, dispersants, gelling agents, film-forming polymers, thickeners, antioxidants, preserving agents, fragrances, neutralizers, antiseptics, UV-screening agents, cosmetic active agents, and mixtures thereof.

[0092] It is a matter of routine practice for a person skilled in the art to adjust the nature and amount of the additives present in the compositions in accordance with the invention such that the desired cosmetic properties and stability properties thereof are not thereby affected.

[0093] The additives may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.01% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably in a content ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0094] A composition used according to the invention can be provided in any presentation form normally used in the cosmetics field.

[0095] It may notably be in the form of an aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic solution, which is optionally gelled, a dispersion of the lotion type, which is optionally a two-phase lotion, an oil-in-water or water-in-oil or multiple emulsion, an aqueous gel, a dispersion of oils in an aqueous phase, notably by means of spherules, it being possible for these spherules to be polymer particles or, better still, lipid vesicles of ionic and / or non-ionic type, or else in the form of a powder, a serum, a paste or a flexible stick or else a stick. It can be of solid, pasty or more or less fluid liquid consistency. It may optionally be applied to the skin in aerosol form. It may also be in solid form, for example in stick form.

[0096] Thus, the composition may comprise any constituent usually employed in the envisaged topical application and administration.

[0097] A composition according to the invention may advantageously be in the form of an aqueous solution, of an emulsion, in particular obtained by dispersion of an aqueous phase in a fatty phase (W / O) or of a fatty phase in an aqueous phase (O / W), of liquid or semi-liquid consistency of the milk type, or of soft, semi-solid or solid consistency of the cream or gel type, or else of a multiple emulsion (W / O / W or O / W / O). These compositions are prepared according to the usual methods.

[0098] The composition according to the invention is preferably topically employed in the context of a use or of a process according to the invention.

[0099] The compositions according to the invention may be applied directly to the skin or, alternatively, to cosmetic supports of occlusive or non-occlusive type, intended to be applied locally to the skin. As non-limiting examples of cosmetic supports, mention may be made in particular of a patch, a wipe, a roll-on and a pen.

[0100] Uses and processes

[0101] According to one of its aspects, the present invention relates to the cosmetic, in particular topical, use of a composition according to the invention for preventing and / or treating the signs of skin ageing.

[0102] According to another one of its aspects, the present invention relates to the cosmetic, in particular topical, use of a composition according to the invention as an anti-ageing composition.

[0103] According to yet another one of its aspects, the present invention relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic process for caring for keratin materials, in particular the skin, comprising the topical application to these keratin materials of a composition according to the invention, for preventing and / or treating the signs of skin ageing.

[0104] A skin may in particular be a skin exhibiting signs of skin ageing, in particular such as the signs defined above.

[0105] A skin may in particular be a skin not exhibiting dermatological or pathological disorders, in other words healthy skin.

[0106] The cosmetic uses and processes considered according to the invention are non-therapeutic. The cosmetic uses and processes of the invention are preferentially performed by topically administering a composition according to the invention. Topical administration is constituted of the external application to the skin of cosmetic compositions according to the usual techniques for the use of these compositions.

[0107] By way of illustration, the cosmetic use or process according to the invention may be performed by topical, for example daily, application of at least one composition according to the invention, which may be formulated, for example, as a cream, gel, serum, lotion, emulsion or milk for removing makeup.

[0108] The application may be repeated for example once or twice daily over a day or more, and generally over an extended period of at least 3 days, at least 4 weeks, or even 4 to 15 weeks, with one or more periods of stoppage, if necessary.

[0109] According to one embodiment, the application is daily (once a day) and generally over an extended period of at least 3 days, at least 4 weeks or even 4 to 15 weeks, with one or more periods of stoppage, if necessary.

[0110] According to one embodiment, the cosmetic treatment process according to the invention may comprise a single application.

[0111] Throughout the description, including the claims, the terms “between ... and ...”, and “ranging from ... to ...” should be understood as meaning limits included, unless otherwise specified.

[0112] In addition, the expression “at least one” should be understood as being synonymous with “one or more”, unless otherwise specified.

[0113] The examples that follow illustrate the present invention without limiting the scope thereof. In the examples, unless otherwise specified, the temperature is ambient temperature (20°C) and is expressed in degrees Celsius, and the pressure is atmospheric pressure.

[0114] Figure

[0115] Figure 1 : Effects of the mixture (Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 and Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7), of the Grifola frondosa fruiting body extract, of rhamnose and of various combinations on collagen III expression in fibroblasts - In situ immunolabelling and image analysis.

[0116] Examples

[0117] A-Materials and methods The fibroblasts were seeded into 96-well plates and cultured for 24 hours in culture medium (DMEM supplemented with 10% FCS). At the end of incubation, the culture medium was replaced by test medium (DMEM supplemented with 2% FCS) containing or not containing (control) the positive reference of the test (vitamin C at 20 pg / ml + TGF-b at 10 ng / ml), or the active agents tested alone or in combination. The cells were then incubated for 72 hours. All the conditions were performed as n = 3.

[0118] At the end of incubation, the media were removed, and the cells were rinsed in PBS, fixed with a 4% PFA solution and permeabilized with a 0.1% Triton X-100 solution. After saturation of the non-specific antigenic sites with a 2% BSA solution, the cells were incubated with an anti-collagen III antibody. After incubation and washes, the cells were incubated with a secondary antibody coupled to a fluorochrome and directed against the anticollagen III antibody and the nuclei were stained with Hoechst. After incubations and washes, acquisitions were performed by fluorescence microscopy (5 photos / field) and the signal intensity, normalized with respect to the number of cells identified with Hoechst labelling, was measured by image analysis. The results were normalized with respect to the control and a statistical analysis was performed (Student’s T-test).

[0119] B -Re suits

[0120] The mixture of peptides, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 and Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, tested at 0.15%, significantly stimulated collagen III expression by the fibroblasts (+118% p<0.001, Table 1). To a lesser extent, stimulation was also observed with the Grifola frondosa fruiting body extract tested at 0.025% (+58% p<0.01, Table 1). In contrast, no significant effect was observed with rhamnose tested at 0.25% (+11% ns, Table 1).

[0121] When combining the peptide mixture (Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 and Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide- 7) with the Grifola frondosa fruiting body extract or rhamnose, a stimulation of collagen III expression was also observed, but the effects were equivalent to those observed with the peptide mixture tested alone (+131% and +102% respectively, p<0.01, Table 1). These results therefore indicate the absence of additive or synergistic effect between the two molecules.

[0122] Similarly, when combining the Grifola frondosa fruiting body extract with rhamnose, a stimulation of collagen III expression was also observed, but the effect was equivalent to that observed with the Grifola frondosa fruiting body extract tested alone (+40%, p<0.01, Table 1). These results therefore indicate once again the absence of additive or synergistic effect between the two molecules.

[0123] Surprisingly and unexpectedly, when combining the peptide mixture (Palmitoyl Tripeptide- 1 and Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7) with the Grifola frondosa fruiting body extract and rhamnose, a strong stimulation of collagen III expression was observed (+245%, p < 0.001, Table 1, Figure 1). Since this effect is much greater than that observed with the starting materials alone or than the sum of the effects of each of the starting materials, these results demonstrate a synergistic activity between Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide- 7, Grifola frondosa fruiting body extract and rhamnose.

[0124] Table 1 : Effects of the mixture (Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 and Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7), of the Grifola frondosa fruiting body extract, of rhamnose and of various combinations on collagen III expression in fibroblasts - In situ immunolabelling and image analysis. [Table 1]

[0125] *tripeptide-l / tetrapeptide-7 were tested in the form of a mixture contained in the starting material sold under the name Matrixyl 3000 by Sederma comprising 0.01% of tripeptide-1 corresponding to the N-Palmitoyl-Gly-His-Lys tripeptide and 0.005% of tetrapeptide-7 corresponding to the N-Palmitoyl-Gly-Gln-Pro-Arg tetrapeptide dissolved in a solvent essentially composed of water and glycerol.

[0126] *Grifola frondosa fruiting body extract is an extract of the Grifola frondosa mushroom, sold under the name Etemiskin LS 9881® by BASF; the Grifola frondosa mushroom extract is present therein at 50% by weight based on the total weight of the starting material, the remainder (50%) being maltodextrin.

[0127] Sequence listing SEP ID NO: 1

[0128] GQPR

Claims

Claims1. Composition, in particular cosmetic composition, comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium:(i) at least one extract of the Grifola frondosa mushroom;(ii) at least one monosaccharide;(iii) at least one N-Palmitoyl-Gly-His-Lys tripeptide; and(iv) at least one N-Palmitoyl-Gly-Gln-Pro-Arg tetrapeptide of sequence SEQ ID NO: 1.

2. Composition according to Claim 1, in which said extract of the Grifola frondosa mushroom is an extract of whole Grifola frondosa mushroom(s) or of constituents thereof chosen from the fruiting body, stem, or mycelium and mixtures thereof; preferably, said extract of the Grifola frondosa mushroom is an extract of the Grifola frondosa mushroom fruiting body.

3. Composition according to Claim 1 or 2, in which said extract of the Grifola frondosa mushroom is obtained by extracting the Grifola frondosa mushroom with water, methanol, ethanol, hexane, cyclohexane, cyclohexane, pentane, acetone, propylene glycols, polyethylene glycols, ethyl acetate, dichloromethane, trichloromethane and mixtures thereof, more preferentially with water, ethanol and mixtures thereof.

4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which said extract of the Grifola frondosa mushroom is present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.001% to 2% by weight of active material relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 0.005% to 1% by weight of active material, and more preferentially ranging from 0.01% to 0.5% by weight of active material, relative to the total weight of the composition.

5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which said monosaccharide is chosen from rhamnose, and also a or p anomers thereof, opticalisomers thereof in the L or D configuration, solvates thereof, and mixtures thereof; more preferentially, the monosaccharide is L-rhamnose.

6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which said monosaccharide is present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.01% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, more preferentially from 0.05% to 10% by weight, and even better still from 0.1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which said N- Palmitoyl-Gly-His-Lys tripeptide is present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.0002 ppm to 200 ppm relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.001 ppm to 100 ppm, more preferentially from 0.005 ppm to 50 ppm, even better still from 0.01 ppm to 10 ppm, relative to the total weight of the composition.

8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which said N- Palmitoyl-Gly-Gln-Pro-Arg tetrapeptide of SEQ ID NO: 1 is present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.0001 ppm to 100 ppm relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.0005 ppm to 50 ppm, more preferentially from 0.001 ppm to 25 ppm, even better still from 0.005 ppm to 5 ppm, relative to the total weight of the composition.

9. Non-therapeutic cosmetic treatment process for caring for keratin materials, in particular the skin, comprising the topical application to these keratin materials of a composition as defined according to any one of Claims 1 to 8, for preventing and / or treating the signs of skin ageing.

10. Cosmetic, in particular topical, use of a composition as defined according to any one of Claims 1 to 8, for preventing and / or treating the signs of skin ageing.

11. Cosmetic, in particular topical, use of a composition as defined according to any one of Claims 1 to 8, as an anti-ageing composition.

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