Multifunctional seaweed based topical composition and uses thereof
A seaweed extract blend enhances SPF and UVA protection, hydration, and skin firmness, addressing the limitations of synthetic filters and single-source natural actives, offering a multifunctional, sustainable skincare solution.
Patent Information
- Authority / Receiving Office
- WO · WO
- Patent Type
- Applications
- Current Assignee / Owner
- ISS ÍNCLITA SEAWEED SOLUTIONS SA
- Filing Date
- 2025-12-04
- Publication Date
- 2026-06-11
AI Technical Summary
Existing skincare compositions based on synthetic UV filters face issues with skin irritation and environmental hazards, and natural alternatives often lack adequate SPF, UVA protection, and hydration, limiting their effectiveness and consumer appeal.
A composition combining aqueous or hydroalcoholic extracts of Asparagopsis sp. and Cystoseira sp. seaweeds, providing synergistic benefits in SPF, UVA protection, and skin hydration, along with anti-aging, anti-inflammatory, and antibacterial properties.
The seaweed extract combination offers enhanced SPF up to 43, UVA absorption, improved hydration, and broad-spectrum skin benefits, addressing multiple skin concerns while being biocompatible and environmentally friendly.
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Abstract
Description
DESCRIPTIONMULTIFUNCTIONAL SEAWEED BASED TOPICAL COMPOSITION AND USES THEREOFTECHNICAL FIELD
[0001] The present disclosure relates to the field of topical compositions, in particular, to cosmetic and / or medical compositions comprising natural multifunctional ingredient for skincare applications. Specifically, it pertains to a composition comprising a mixture of Asparagopsis sp. extract and Cystoseira sp. extract, which provides synergistic benefits in terms of Sun Protection Factor (SPF), UVA protection and skin hydration.BACKGROUND
[0002] Consumers are increasingly seeking cosmetics with fewer synthetic ingredients due to their health and environmental risks, and thus enhancing the appeal of natural multifunctional actives in skincare. For example, synthetic sun protection agents, including certain chemical UV filters like oxybenzone and octinoxate, are effective but have been associated with skin irritation and environmental hazards. These compounds can disrupt aquatic ecosystems, especially coral reefs, when washed off into waterways, leading to legislative bans in some regions. UVB radiance at 297 nm is the most critical for the a SPF once thiy wavelength is responsible for the Human erythema, DNA direct damage, and skin inflammation.
[0003] Benefits of using multifunctional ingredients from natural sources natural multifunctional ingredients, such as seaweeds extracts. Brown seaweeds are rich in polyphenols, flavonoids, carotenoids and pollysacharides while red seaweeds in microsporin alike aminoacids (MAA), phycoerythrin, and pollysacharides. These seaweed compounds offer multiple skin benefits beyond sun protection, as anti-inflammatory, antibacterial and skin firmness related properties such inhibition of elastin and collagen degration enzymes. However, existing compositions based on these ingredients often lack to provide multiple biological properties, in particular hydration or adequate SPF or UVA protection, limiting their utility and consumer appeal.
[0004] These facts are disclosed in order to illustrate the technical problem addressed by the present disclosure.GENERAL DESCRIPTION
[0005] The present disclosure relates to a composition comprising a mixture of an aqueous extract of Asparagopsis sp. and an aqueous extract of Cystoseira sp, developed to address consumer demand for natural, multifunctional skincare solutions. Unlike conventional products that rely on synthetic ingredients or single-source natural actives, the composition of the present invention offers enhanced hydration and Sun Protection Factor (SPF) properties, addressing key deficiencies in existing formulations.
[0006] In particular, the present disclosure relates to a composition comprising a mixture of an hydroalcoholic extract of a red seaweed, Asparagopsis sp., and an hydroalcoholic extract of a brown seaweed, Cystoseira sp., developed to address consumer demand for natural, multifunctional skincare solutions. Unlike conventional products that rely on synthetic ingredients or single-source natural actives, the composition of the present invention offers combined enhanced Sun Protection Factor (SPF) and UVA absorption and skin hydration with other antiaiging properties such as, reduction of hyperpigmentation, anti-inflammatory effects, antibacterial features and skin firmness properties, addressing key deficiencies in existing antiaiging formulations.
[0007] An aspect of the present disclosure relates to a composition comprising a mixture of an extract of Asparagopsis sp. and an extract of Cystoseira sp, both extracted with an aqueous solvent, preferably an hydroalcoholic solvent.
[0008] By hydroalcoholic solvent it means that the extraction solution may have an water percentage between 54% and 99%(v / v), preferably between 54% and 98% (v / v), and more preferably between 54% and 96%(v / v).
[0009] It was surprisingly found that the combination of these two extracts exhibits a synergistic effect, resulting in enhanced hyaluronidase inhibition and therefore providing enhanced hydration properties.
[0010] The composition of the present disclosure also showed a synergistic effect in terms of SPF properties and UVA absorption, wherein the combination of these two extracts providesa SPF up to 43 and a UVA absorption at 340 nm up to 1 at when the composition is in a concentration of 1 mg / mL.
[0011] The composition herein described eliminates the need for multiple products by delivering UV absorption, hydration, reduction of hyperpigmentation, anti-inflammatory, skin firmness effects and antibacterial benefits in a single formulation. This multifunctionality aligns with the growing consumer preference for natural and sustainable formulations.
[0012] The composition of the present disclosure is biocompatible and well-tolerated by sensitive skin, reducing the risk of irritation or sensitization compared to other compositions comprising conventional antioxidants or artificial SPF ingredients.
[0013] The composition of the present disclosure also exhibited antioxidant activity, antiinflammatory properties, and elastase, collagenase and tyrosinase inhibition, further highlighting its multifunctional capabilities and its potential to address a wide range of skin concerns, including oxidative stress, inflammation, hyperpigmentation and loss of skin elasticity, thereby offering a comprehensive solution for skincare applications.
[0014] The composition of the present disclosure also showed to be stable.
[0015] In a preferred embodiment for better results, the species of Asparagopsis sp. is selected from the list consisting of: Asparagopsis taxiformis, Asparagopsis armata; preferably the species of Asparagopsis sp. is Asparagopsis armata.
[0016] In a preferred embodiment for better results, the aqueous extract of Asparagopsis sp. and the aqueous extract of Cystoseira sp is an hydroalcoholic extract; preferably wherein the alcohol is selected from a list consisting of: etahnol, isopropanol, or mixtures thereof.
[0017] In a preferred embodiment for better results, the species of Cystoseira sp. is selected from the list consisting of: Cystoseira tamariscifolia, Cystoseira amentacea, Cystoseira compressa, Cystoseira baccata, Cystoseira humilis; preferably the species of Cystoseira sp. is Cystoseira humilis and / or Cystoseira tamariscifolia.
[0018] In a preferred embodiment for better results, the composition comprises 10-40 % (w / w) of an aqueous extract of Asparagopsis sp. and 60-90 % (w / w) of an aqueous extract of Cystoseira sp.
[0019] In a preferred embodiment for better results, the composition comprises 10-50 % (w / w) of an hydroalcoholic extract of Asparagopsissp. and 50-90 % (w / w) of an hydroalcoholic extract of Cystoseira sp.
[0020] In a preferred embodiment for better results, the composition comprises 10-50 % (w / w) of the extract of Asparagopsis sp.; preferably 15-30 % (w / w); more preferably 20-25 % (w / w).
[0021] In a preferred embodiment for better results, the composition comprises 50-90 % (w / w) of the extract of Cystoseira sp.; preferably 70-85 % (w / w); more preferably 75-80 % (w / w).
[0022] In a preferred embodiment for better results, the composition comprises a mixture of an hydroalcoholic extract of Asparagopsis armata and hydroalcoholic extract of Cystoseira sp; preferably Cystoseira humilis and / or Cystoseira tamariscifolia.
[0023] In a preferred embodiment for better results, the composition comprises 10-40 % (w / w) of an aqueous extract of Asparagopsis armata and 60-90 % (w / w) of an aqueous extract of Cystoseira humilis and / or Cystoseira tamariscifolia.
[0024] In a preferred embodiment for better results, the composition comprises 10-50 % (w / w) or hydroalcoholic extract of Asparagopsis armata, and 50-90 % (w / w) of hydroalcoholic extract of Cystoseira sp; preferably Cystoseira humilis and / or Cystoseira tamariscifolia.
[0025] In a preferred embodiment for better results, the composition comprises 10-50 % (w / w) of the extract of Asparagopsis armata; preferably 15-30 % (w / w); more preferably 20-25 % (w / w).
[0026] In a preferred embodiment for better results, the composition comprises 50-90 % (w / w) of the extract of Cystoseira sp.; preferably 70-85 % (w / w);more preferably 75-80 % (w / w).
[0027] In a preferred embodiment for better results, the weight ratio between extract of Asparagopsis armata: extract of Cystoseira sp. ranges from 1:1 to 1:9; preferably 1:1 to 1:6; more preferably 1:3 tol:4.
[0028] In a preferred embodiment, the composition of the present disclosure exhibits a sun protection factor (SPF) of at least 1 when evaluated at a concentration of 35 mg-mL“1, preferably an SPF from 10 to 35, and more preferably an SPF from 25 to 30. In anotherpreferred embodiment, the composition exhibits a sun protection factor (SPF) of at least 9 when tested at a concentration of 1 mg-mL“1, preferably an SPF from 10 to 50, and more preferably an SPF of about 43.
[0029] In a preferred embodiment for better results, the extracts are dried extracts.
[0030] In a preferred embodiment for better results, the synergistic composition may comprise 10-50 % (w / w) of an extract of Asparagopsis armata and 50-90 % (w / w) of an extract of Cystoseira sp.; preferably the aqueous extract of Asparagopsis sp. and the aqueous extract of Cystoseira sp. is a hydroalcoholic extract; preferably wherein the alcohol is selected from a list consisting of: etahnol, isopropanol, or mixtures thereof.
[0031] Another aspect of the present disclosure relates to a topical composition comprising the composition herein described; preferably comprising 5-30% (w / w) of the composition herein described; more preferably 10 -25% (w / w); even more preferably 15% (w / w).
[0032] In a preferred embodiment, the topical composition further comprises 0.1-2% (w / w) of an antioxidant, preferably ascorbic acid; preferably 0.2-1% (w / w); more preferably 0.3-0.8 % (w / w).
[0033] In a preferred embodiment, the topical composition further comprises 60-90% (w / w) of a triol, preferably glycerin; preferably 65-75% (w / w).
[0034] In a preferred embodiment, the topical composition is selected from a list consisting of: solution, serum, cream, lotion, gel, hydrogel, oil, soap, shampoo, stick- or bar-shaped solid, spray, ointment, paste, mousse or body wash; preferably cream, lotion, gel, hydrogel; more preferably a cream.
[0035] In a preferred embodiment, the topical composition further comprises a cosmetically or dermatologically acceptable ingredient selected from the list consisting of: preservatives, emollients, emulsifying agents, surfactants, moisturizers, thickening agents, conditioning agents, film-forming agents, stabilizing agents, anti-oxidants, anti-inflammatory / skin calming agents, texturizing agents, gloss agents, mattifying agents, solubilizers, pigments, dyes, fragrances, sunscreens, whitening agents or mixtures thereof.
[0036] Another aspect of the present disclosure relates to the use of the compositions herein described in medicine.
[0037] In an embodiment, the compositions of the present disclosure may be used in the prevention or treatment of cancer; preferably skin cancer.
[0038] In an embodiment, the compositions of the present disclosure may be used in the prevention or treatment of topical inflammation an bacterial infection.
[0039] In an embodiment, the compositions of the present disclosure may be used as an ultraviolet radiation blocking agent.
[0040] Another aspect of the present disclosure relates to the cosmetic use of the compositions of the present disclosure as an anti-inflammatory agent.
[0041] Another aspect of the present disclosure relates to the cosmetic use of the compositions of the present disclosure as a skin hydration agent.
[0042] Another aspect of the present disclosure relates to the cosmetic use of the compositions of the present disclosure as an antiaging agent, anti-wrinkle, and / or antielastase agent.
[0043] Another aspect of the present disclosure relates to a method for obtaining the composition of the present disclosure, namely a composition comprising an aqueous extract of Asparagopsis sp. and an aqueous extract of Cystoseira sp.,; preferably a hydroalcoholic extract, said method comprising the steps of:obtaining dried seaweeds of Asparagopsis sp. and dried seaweeds of Cystoseira sp., preferably obtaining dried seaweeds of Asparagopsis armata and dried seaweeds of Cystoseira humilis and / or Cystoseira tamariscifolia;milling, independently, said dried seaweeds;mixing each milled dried seaweeds with an aqueous or hydroalcoholic extraction solvent to form a first mixture of Asparagopsis sp. comprising a liquid fraction and a solid fraction and a second mixture of Cystoseira sp. comprising a liquid fraction and a solid fraction; stirring each mixture;separating the liquid fraction and the solid fraction of each mixture;concentrating each liquid fraction to obtain a first extract of Asparagopsis sp. and a second extract of Cystoseira sp.;drying each extract to obtain a first dry extract of Asparagopsis sp. and a second dry extract of Cystoseira sp.;mixing the first dry extract of Asparagopsis sp. with the second dry extract of Cystoseira sp. to obtain the composition of the present disclosure.
[0044] In a preferred embodiment, the ratio between milled dried seaweeds: aqueous extraction solvent ranges from 1:5 (m / V) to 1:80 (m / V); preferably 1:20 (m / V).
[0045] In a preferred embodiment, the extract of Asparagopsis sp. is obtained from thallus of Asparagopsis sp.
[0046] In a preferred embodiment, the extract of Cystoseira sp. is obtained from thallus of Cystoseira sp.
[0047] In a preferred embodiment for better results, the species of Asparagopsis sp. is Asparagopsis armata, and the species of Cystoseira sp. is Cystoseira humilis and Cystoseira tamariscifolia.The BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS
[0048] The following figures provide preferred embodiments for illustrating the disclosure and should not be seen as limiting the scope of invention.
[0049] Figure 1: Flowchart of the method for obtaining the composition of the present disclosure according to example 1, comprising a mixture of a dried aqueous extract of Asparagopsis armata and a dried aqueous extract of Cystoseira humilis (composition 1 of the present disclosure). 10-15 % (w / w) of this mixture was then incorporated in a vehicle comprising a mixture of glycerol and water (4:1, v / v) with 0.5% (v / v) of ascorbic acid (composition 2 of the present disclosure).
[0050] Figure 2: Flowchart of the method for obtaining the composition of the present disclosure according to example 1, comprising a mixture of a dried hydroalcoholic extract of Asparagopsis armata and a dried hydroalcoholic extract of Cystoseira humilis. (composition 1 of the present disclosure). 10-15 % (w / w) of this mixture was then incorporated in a vehicle comprising a mixture of glycerol and water (4:1, v / v) with 0.5% (v / v) of ascorbic acid (composition 2 of the present disclosure).DETAILED DESCRIPTION
[0051] The present disclosure relates to the field of topical compositions, in particular, to cosmetic and / or medical compositions comprising natural multifunctional ingredient for skincare applications. Specifically, it pertains to a composition comprising a mixture of Asparagopsis sp. extract (preferably Asparagopsis armata extract) and Cystoseira sp. (preferably Cystoseira humilis or Cystoseira tamarascifolia) extract, which provides synergistic benefits in terms of Sun Protection Factor (SPF), UVA protection and skin hydration. The synergistic combination of these extracts results in:Improved SPF: Higher UV protection efficacy with a SPF equal or above 15, preferably ranging from 15-43.Improved Hydration: Enhanced moisture retention due to improved hyaluronidase inhibition, showing an IC50below 0.8 mg.mL-1, preferably ranging from 0.4 -0.5mg.mL-1.
[0052] Inhibiting hyaluronidase in the skin helps maintain hydration, once hyaluronidase breaks down hyaluronic acid, a molecule that naturally holds large amounts of water and keeps the skin moisturized. By preventing the degradation of hyaluronic acid, its water-binding capacity is preserved, allowing the skin to retain moisture, improve elasticity, and maintain a healthy, hydrated appearance.
[0053] Asparagopsis armata (Asparagopsis armata (Harvey, 1855)) is a red algae found in Portuguese coast with high biomass production. It may be obtained from warmer waters, such as those off the coast of Australia and South Africa, but it has been spreading to other regions, including the Azores archipelago in Portugal.
[0054] Cystoseira humilis is a brown seaweed. It may be obtained from the Mediterranean Sea and along the Atlantic coasts of Europe, including the Azores archipelago in Portugal Azores. Cystoseira tamarascifolia is a brown seaweed found across Portugal, Spain, Morocco, and the Mediterranean Sea and Atlantic Ocean.
[0055] The composition of the present disclosure offers unique benefits over other natural sources, primarily due to their rich biochemical composition and sustainability. Based on seaweed extracts, it contains high concentrations of bioactive compounds such as, phlorotannins, alginates, fucoidan, peptides, and halogenated compounds, which provide potent antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, UV-absorbing and antimicrobial properties. It canabsorb UV rays naturally and offer comparable or enhanced photoprotection, avoiding the need for synthetic UV filters.
[0056] Moreover, Asparagopsis sp. (preferably Asparagopsis armata) and Cystoseira sp. (preferably Cystoseira humilis or Cystoseira tamarascifolia) algae are highly renewable, grows rapidly, and does not require freshwater or arable land, making it an environmentally friendly resource. Given their diverse functionality and natural origin, the mixture of the present disclosure is multifunctional, sustainable and provides improved biological properties.EXAMPLE 1
[0057] Asparagopsis armata, in particular thallus of Asparagopsis armata, was obtained from Azores archipelago.
[0058] Cystoseira humilis was obtained from Atlantic Sea rocky shores such as in Azores archipelago.
[0059] Figure 2 is a Flowchart of the method for obtaining the composition of the present disclosure according to example 1, comprising a mixture of a dried hydroalcoholic extract of (thallus of) Asparagopsis armata and a dried hydroalcoholic extract of (thallus of) Cystoseira humilis (1:4, w / w) (composition 1). This mixture was then incorporated in a vehicle comprising a mixture of glycerol and water (4:1, v / v) with 0.5% (v / v) of ascorbic acid (composition 2).
[0060] Seaweeds of each algae species, in particular thallus of Asparagopsis armata and thallus of Cystoseira humilis., were independently extracted with an hydroalcoholic solvent in an extraction ratio of 1:20 (malgae / Vsolvent) (1), during 20 minutes at room temperature under stirring (1). The liquid and solid phases of each mixture were then separated (2), and each supernatant was submitted to a full evaporation step to eliminate the solvent (3), obtaining a powder extract of (thallus of) Asparagopsis armata and a powder extract of (thallus of ) Cystoseira humilis. Both powder extracts were then mixed (4), in a weight ratio 1:4 (dried aqueous extract of Asparagopsis armata: dried aqueous extract of Cystoseira humilis), obtaining the mixture of the present disclosure (composition 1).
[0061] The mixture of composition 1 was then incorporated in a vehicle (80% (w / w) Glycerin + 20%(w / w) water + 0.5%(w / w) ascorbic acid), in a percentage of 15 % (wcomposition 1 / wtotal), obtaining the composition 2 of the present disclosure.Table 1. Main components of each dried extract hydroalcoholic extract of Asparagopsis armata and hydroalcoholic extract of Cystoseira humilis obtained in example 1.Extract ComponentPhenolic compounds (mgGAE. gs): 6.9 ± 2.3 Dried extract of Asparagopsis armata Soluble proteins (mg BSAE- gs): 13.4 ± 2.5Total carbon hydrates (mg GE-gs) ■ 232.8 ± 17.5Phenolic compounds (mgGAE. gs): 20 - 150 Dried extract of Cystoseira humilis Soluble proteins (mg BSAE- gs): 90 - 150Total carbon hydrates (mg GE-gs): 100 - 200BSAE: Bovine serum albumin; E: extract; GAE: galic acid equivalents; GE: glucose equivalentsTable 2. Composition of composition 1Ingredient % (w / w)Dried aqueous extract of (tallus of) Asparagopsis armata 20Dried aqueous extract of (tallus of) Cystoseira humilis 80Table 3. Composition of composition 2Ingredient % (w / w)Composition 1 15Ascorbic acid 0.43Glycerin 67.57water 17EXAMPLE 2
[0062] Asparagopsis armata, in particular thallus of Asparagopsis armata, was obtained from Azores archipelago.
[0063] Cystoseira sp., in particular thallus of Cystoseira tamarascifolia., was obtained from Atlantic Sea rocky shores, such is Azores archipelago.
[0064] Figure 2 is a Flowchart of the method for obtaining the composition of the present disclosure according to example 1, comprising a mixture of a dried hydroalcoholic extract of (thallus of) Asparagopsis armata and a dried hydroalcoholic extract of (thallus of) Cystoseira tamarascifolia (1:4, w / w) (composition 1). This mixture was then incorporated in a vehicle comprising a mixture of glycerol and water (4:1, v / v) with 0.5% (v / v) of ascorbic acid (composition 2).
[0065] Seaweeds of each algae species, in particular thallus of Asparagopsis armata and thallus of Cystoseira tamarascifolia., were independently extracted with hydroalcoholic solvent in an extraction ratio of 1:20 (malgae / Vsolvent) (1), during 20 minutes at room temperature under stirring (1). The liquid and solid phases of each mixture were then separated (2), and each supernatant was submitted to a full evaporation step to eliminate the solvent (3), obtaining a powder extract of (thallus of) Asparagopsis armata and a powder extract of (thallus of ) Cystoseira tamarascifolia. Both powder extracts were then mixed (4), in a weight ratio 1:1 (dried hydroalcoholic extract of Asparagopsis armata: dried hydroalcoholic extract of Cystoseira tamarascifolia.), obtaining the mixture of the present disclosure (composition 1).
[0066] The mixture of composition 1 was then incorporated in a vehicle (80% (w / w) Glycerin + 20%(w / w) water + 0.5%(w / w) ascorbic acid), in a percentage of 15 % (wcomposition 1 / wtotal), obtaining the composition 2 of the present disclosure.Table 1. Main components of each dried extract hydroalcoholic extract of Asparagopsis armata and hydroalcoholic extract of Cystoseira tamarascifolia obtained in example 1.Extract ComponentPhenolic compounds (mgGAE. gs): 6.9 ± 2.3 Dried extract of Asparagopsis armata Soluble proteins (mg BSAE- gs): 13.4 ± 2.5Total carbon hydrates (mg GE-gs): 232.8 ± 17.5Phenolic compounds (mgGAE. gs): 20 - 150 Dried extract of Cystoseira tamarascifolia Soluble proteins (mg BSAE- gs): 90 - 150Total carbon hydrates (mg GE-gs): 100 - 200BSAE: Bovine serum albumin; E: extract; GAE: galic acid equivalents; GE: glucose equivalentsTable 2. Composition of composition 1Ingredient % (w / w)Dried aqueous extract of (ta II us of) Asparagopsis armata 20Dried aqueous extract of (ta II us of) Cystoseira tamarascifolia 80Table 3. Composition of composition 2Ingredient % (w / w)Composition 1 10Ascorbic acid 0.43Glycerin 69.57water 20Biological properties
[0067] The following results were obtained considering composition 1 and composition 2 of the present disclosure.
[0068] Table 4. In vitro Assay - Hyaluronidase inhibition assay (hydration capacity) of the hydroalcoholic extract of Asparagopsis armata, Cystoseira humilis, Cystoseira tamarascifolia and compositions 1.Sample Result IC50(mg.mL-1)* Composition 10.4 -0.5 Asparagopsis armata extract and Cystoseira humilis extractComposition 10.5- 1.7 Asparagopsis armata extract and of Cystoseira tamarascifolia extractAsparagopsis armata extract 0.6 - 2.8 Cystoseira humilis extract 0.7 - 2 Cystoseira tamarascifolia extract 1.9 - 2.5Vehicle (80%(v / v) Glycerin+ 20%(v / v) water+0.5%(v / v) ascorbic acid) 26 - 27*IC50 value is aquantitative measure, expressed in the concentration of a inhibitor needed to inhibit a biological process or response by 50%. Lower IC50 values means that the less amount of the extract is required to achieve the inhibitoty effects, hence the lower the 150, the better the result isTable 5. In vitro determination of the sun protector factor (SPF) of other natural extracts of the prior art.Natural extract SPFCamellia sinensis (Green tea extract)18Aloe barbadensis (Aloe vera)24 -8Theobroma cacao (Cocoa butter)34 - 6Turmeric extract46 -8Vitellaria paradoxa (Shea butter)53 - 61) Nnoaham, A. et al. " Green tea polyphenols as sunscreen agents: their photoprotective efficacy and potential for use in cosmetics." Journal of Cosmetic Science, 2016; 2) Hendrawati, T., Ambarwati, H., Nugrahani, R. A., Susanty, S., & Hasyim, U. H. (2020). The Effects of Aloe Vera Gel Addition on the Effectiveness of Sunscreen Lotion; 3) Singh, M., Agarwal, S., Agarwal, M., Rachana (2020). Benefits of Theobroma cacao and Its Phytocompounds as Cosmeceuticals. In: Swamy, M. (eds) Plant-derived Bioactives. Springer, Singapore. https: / / doi.org / 10.1007 / 978-981-15-1761-7_21; 4) Dalla, E.; Koumentakou, I.; Bikiaris, N.; Balla, E.; Lykidou, S.; Nikolaidis, N. Formulation, Characterization and Evaluation of Innovative O / W Emulsions Containing Curcumin Derivatives with Enhanced Antioxidant Properties. Antioxidants 2022, 11, 2271.Table 6. In vitro determination of the sun protector factor (SPF) and critical wavelengths of UVB and UVA of the hydroalcoholic extract of Asparagopsis armata, Cystoseira humilis, C. tamarascifolia, and composition 1 of the present disclosure.Sample SPF Abs297Σ Abs340UVB UVAComposition 1 (1 mg.mL-1) 15 0.96- 1.33 0.74-0.99 (equivalent to 0.2 mg.g1of Asparagopsisarmata extract and 0.8 mg.g1of Cystoseirahumilis extract)Composition 1 (1 mg.mL’1) 31-43 0.96- 1.33 0.74-0.99 (equivalent to 0.2 mg.g1of Asparagopsisarmata extract and 0.8 mg.g1of Cystoseiratamarascifolia extract)Asparagopsis armata extract (0.2 mg.g-1) 17 - 29 0.1-0.14 0.18-0.24 Cystoseira humilis extract (0.8 mg.g-1) 15 - 26 0.38-0.5 0.46-0.65 Cystoseira tamarascifolia extract (0.8 mg.g-1) 19 -30 0.51-0.78 0.51-0.78 Vehicle (80%(v / v) Glycerin+ 20%(v / v) Not detected Not detected Not detected water+0.5%(v / v) ascorbic acid)Table 7. In vitro Anti-inflammatory potential (Nitric Oxide Radical (»NO) of the hydroalcoholic extracts of Asparagopsis armata, Cystoseira humilis, and Cystoseira tamarascifolia, and compositions 1. Anti-inflammatory potential was measured by the antioxidant activity against’NO, expressed in IC50 values.Sample Result IC50(mg.mL-1)* Composition 10.5-0.9 Asparagopsis armata extract and Cystoseira humilis. extractAsparagopsis armata extract and Cystoseira tamarascifolia extract 0.25-0.45 Asparagopsis armata extract 0.2 -0.9 Cystoseira humilis extract 0.5 -0.7 Cystoseira tamarascifolia extract 0.1 -0.3 Vehicle (80%(v / v) Glycerin+ 20%(v / v) water+0.5% (v / v) ascorbic acid) Not detected*IC50 value is aquantitative measure, expressed in the concentration of a inhibitor needed to inhibit a biological process or response by 50%. Lower IC50 values means that the less amount of the extract is required to achieve the inhibitoty effects, hence the lower the 150, the better the result is.Table 8. Antibacterial determination- Minimal inhibitory concentration (MIC50) of composition 2 of the present disclosure.Sample Bacteria strain MIC (mg.mL1)Staphylococcus aureus < 1Escherichia coli < 1Composition 2Bacillus subtilis < 1Cutibacterium acnes < 1Asparagopsis armata Staphylococcus aureus 5- 10Cystoseira humilis Staphylococcus aureus 0.5 - 2Cystoseira tamarascifolia Staphylococcus aureusTable 9. In vitro Assay - Elastase inhibition (in vitro skin firmness determination) of the hydroalcoholic extract of Asparagopsis armata, Cystoseira humilis, Cystoseira tamarascifolia, and and compositions 1.Sample Result IC50(mg.mL-1)* Composition 1 0.9 - 1.5 Asparagopsis armata extract and Cystoseira humilis. extractComposition 1 0.9 -1 Asparagopsis armata extract and Cystoseira tamarascifolia extract5 - 12 Asparagopsis armata extract6 -7 Cystoseira humilis extract0.6 -0.9 Cystoseira tamarascifolia extractNot detected Vehicle (80%(v / v) Glycerin+ 20% (v / v)water+0.5%(v / v) ascorbic acid)*IC50 value is aquantitative measure, expressed in the concentration of a inhibitor needed to inhibit a biological process or response by 50%. Lower IC50 values means that the less amount of the extract is required to achieve the inhibitoty effects, hence the lower the 150, the better the result is.Table 10. In vitro Assay - Tyrosinase inhibition (in vitro reduction of hyperpigmentation determination) of the hydroalcoholic extract of Asparagopsis armata, Cystoseira humilis, Cystoseira tamarascifolia, and and compositions 1.Sample Result IC50(mg.mL-1)* Composition 1 2- 5 Asparagopsis armata extract and Cystoseira humilis. extractComposition 1 0.12 - 0.355 Asparagopsis armata extract and Cystoseira tamarascifoliaextract5 - 8 Asparagopsis armata extract0.4 - 2 Cystoseira humilis extract0.84- 0.2 Cystoseira tamarascifolia extractVehicle (80%(v / v) Glycerin+ 20% (v / v)water+0.5%(v / v) Not detectedascorbic acid)*IC50 value is aquantitative measure, expressed in the concentration of a inhibitor needed to inhibit a biological process or response by 50%. Lower IC50 values means that the less amount of the extract is required to achieve the inhibitoty effects, hence the lower the 150, the better the result is.Table 11. In vitro Assay - Collagenase inhibition (in vitro skin firnmess determination) of the hydroalcoholic extract of Asparagopsis armata, Cystoseira humilis, Cystoseira tamarascifolia, and and compositions 1.Sample Result IC50 (mg.mL1)* Composition 1 0.15 - 0.21 Asparagopsis armata extract and Cystoseira humilis. extractComposition 1 0.25 - 0.29 Asparagopsis armata extract and Cystoseira tamarascifolia extract>10 Asparagopsis armata extract0.12 - 0.25 Cystoseira humilis extract0.2 - 0.35 Cystoseira tamarascifolia extractNot detected Vehicle (80% (v / v) Glycerin+ 20%(v / v) water+0.5%(v / v) ascorbic acid)*IC50 value is aquantitative measure, expressed in the concentration of a inhibitor needed to inhibit a biological process or response by 50%. Lower IC50 values means that the less amount of the extract is required to achieve the inhibitoty effects, hence the lower the 150, the better the result is.
[0069] As demonstrated by the biological results presented in the preceding tables, the composition of the present disclosure exhibits enhanced hyaluronidase inhibition and UV protection. The composition also have antibacterial, anti-inflammatory properties, and elastase inhibition. These multifunctional capabilities address a broad spectrum of skin concerns, including dry skin, sunburn, oxidative stress, inflammation, erythrema, hyperpigmentation and loss of skin elasticity, thereby offering a comprehensive solution for skincare applications.MATERIALS AND METHODSIn vitro Sun protector factor assay
[0070] The in vitro sun protector factor (SPF) was determined according to Rohr et al. (2010). Briefly, the absorbance of 2 mL of each extract / ingredient (in a concentration range from 200 to 1000 pg mL-1) was measured in a spectrophotometer (290 to 320 nm, 5 in 5 nm). The SPF was calculated using the formula proposed by Mansur et. Al (1986):SPFspectrophotometric= CF × ∑ EE(λ) × I (λ) × Abs(λ)where EE(X) is the erythemal effect spectrum, I (X) is the solar intensity spectrum, Abs(X) is the absorbance of extract, and CF is the correction factor determined using a commercial sunscreen with a known SFP value of 30. CF was found to be 36.Spectrum absorbance determination 290 -400 nmExtracts were solubilized in an appropriate solvent system (aqueous, ethanolic, or hydroalcoholic) at concentrations yielding absorbance values within the analytical linearity range (0.2-1.5 AU) and solvent-matched blanks were prepared UV-Vis spectra were acquired using a quartz cuvette. Measurements were conducted between 290 and 400 nm with a 1 nm interval. Blank spectra were recorded under identical conditions and subtracted from sample spectra. Absorbance characteristics at diagnostically relevant wavelengths 297, for UVB, and 340 in UVA were reported (Diffey, 2002).In vitro- hydration capacity by Hyaluronidase inhibition assay
[0071] The hyaluronidase inhibition assay was used to determine the hydration potential according to Ferreres et al. The IC50 of the sample was determined by testing the hyaluronidase inhibition with a serial range of the sample (in a concentration from 5 to 0.05 mg / mL). Briefly, 25 pL of the sample, 175 pL hyaluronic acid (0.7 mg / mL), and 25 pL of hyaluronidase (900 U / mL in NaCI 0.9%) were mixed in a reaction tube. After 30 min of incubation at 37 °C, the reaction was stopped by the addition of 25 pL of di-sodium tetraborate (0.8 M in water), followed by incubation for 3 min at 90 °C in a water bath. The reaction tubes were cooled to room temperature before 375 pL of DMAB [4-(Dimethylamino)benzaldehyde] solution was added. After 20 min of incubation at 37 °C, the absorbance of the colored product formed was measured at 560 nm, in a microplate reader. The negative control was performed in the absence of sample and disodium cromoglycate as a positive control. Three independent assays were performed in triplicate, and the results were expressed as the percentage of enzyme inhibition in comparison to the untreated control.In vitro Assay - Anti-inflammatory potential (Nitric Oxide Radical (»NO) Scavenging Capacity)
[0072] Nitric Oxide Radical (»NO) Scavenging Capacity was determined for the extracts as reported by Ferreres et al. 2012. For that the extract was re-suspended in phosphate buffer with 20% DMSO, and diluted in a range series from 4.9 pg-mL-1 to 2.5 mg-mL-1. Samples (in triplicate) were then incubated with sodium nitroprusside, for 60 min at room temperature, in the light. Griess reagent was added afterwards, and the chromophore reaction was undertaken in the dark for 10 min, with absorbance being read at 562 nm.Antibacterial determination- Minimal inhibitory concentration (MIC)
[0073] The in vitro bactericidal capacity of the sample was tested against a selection of the most relevant skin pathogenic bacteria (Staphylococcus aureus, Cutibacterium acnes, Bacillus subtilis.) All bacteria were cultured for 24 h at 37 °C, with Mueller-Hinton Broth (MHB) prior the assay. The sample was resuspended at lO mg mL-1, in sterilized water and from this concentration a dilution series was made. The assay was performed on 96-well plates. In summary, 100 pL of each concentration of sample was incubated with shaking for 24 hrs at37 °C, with 50 pL of each bacterial suspension (with an optical density within 0.200-0.300 at 600 nm) and 100 pL of MBH. As negative control sterilized water was used instead the samples, and as positive control ethanol. The bactericidal activity was calculated as the percentage able to inhibit 50% bacterial viability.In vivo Patch Assay - Safety
[0074] Patch test assessment of skin tolerance of a cosmetic product and involves a single application during 48 hours occlusive patch test. Negative controls are used to facilitate evaluation. Treatment sites are assessed before the first application of the test material (baseline), after treatment at 30 minutes, upon patch removal and at 24 and 48 hours after patch removal. The patch is applied on the skin for 48 hours. Skin reactions are scored throughout the test by the same experienced assessor, a dermatologist, who made the baseline assessment and underthe same lighting source, following a pre-defined scoring scale. The quantification of the skin irritation is given through a numeric scale (erythema, oedema, dryness / desquamation, vesicles). The average irritant score of the product tested is calculated from the average of the reactions obtained for each volunteer, allowing to rank the product from "non-irritant" to "very irritant".In vitro Assay - Elastase inhibitionBriefly, in a 96-well plate, 50 pL of extract was mixed with 90 pL of HEPES buffer (0.1 M), 10 pL of N-succinyl-Ala-Ala-Ala p-nitroanilide substrate (100 pM), 70 pL of acetate buffer (200 mM), and 30 pL of elastase (1 U / mL). The plate was incubated at 37 °C for 10 min, and the absorbance of the reaction product was measured at 405 nm, in a Synergy HT Multi-detection microplate reader (Biotek, Bad Friedrichshall, Germany) operated via GEN5TM. The negative control was performed in the absence of extract, and ascorbic acid was used as a positive control. Three independent assays were performed in triplicate. The results were expressed as the percentage of enzyme inhibition in comparison to the untreated control.In vitro Assay- Colagenase inhibitionThe synthetic substrate N-[3-furyl-acryloyl]-Leu-Gly-Pro-Ala (FALGPA) 0.1 mM was dissolved in tricine buffer 50 mM (pH 7.5) supplemented with 400 mM sodium chloride (NaCI) and10 mM calcium chloride (CaCI2) (assay buffer). Collagenase was prepared in the assay buffer at 1 U, knowing that 1 U hydrolyses 1 mol of FALGPA per minute, at 25 °C, in the presence of calcium ions. EGCG at 40 M was used as positive control with reported IC50 of 0.9 mMCitation51, and the sample solvent (DMSO 0.3% v / v in tricine buffer) as the negative control. The assay mixture containing 80 pL of tested extracts (lOOg / mL) and 100 p L of collagenase was incubated at 37 °C for 10 min before starting the reaction by adding 20 pL of FALGPA. The assay was performed in triplicate. Absorbance of FALGPA was read at 405 nm for 10 min, continuously, in a microplate reader (Thermo-Fisher Scientific). Results were expressed as percentage inhibition (%) accordingIn vitro Assay- Tyrosinase inhibition assay (reduction of hyperpigmentation)
[0075] Tyrosinase inhibition assay was determined, as reported by Adhikari et al. (2008). First, ten pLof the ingredient dilutions (31.2 to 1000.0 pg mL-1) plus 20 pL of tyrosinase (50 U mL-1) and 70 pL of phosphate buffer (50 mM, pH 6.5) were added to a 96-well plate and kept at 25 °C during 5 min. The reaction was started by adding 70 pL of the substrate (L-DOPA, 2.5 mM). Kojic acid was used as the positive control. The absorbance was measured at 0 and 15 min at 475 nm. The enzymatic inhibition was calculated based on the values of 100% activity (using DMSO 10% instead of the extract) and 0% activity (using buffer instead of the enzyme). The assay was performed in triplicate.
[0076] The term "comprising" whenever used in this document is intended to indicate the presence of stated features, integers, steps, components, but not to preclude the presence or addition of one or more other features, integers, steps, components or groups thereof.
[0077] Where ranges are given, endpoints are included. Furthermore, it is to be understood that unless otherwise indicated or otherwise evident from the context and / or the understanding of one of ordinary skill in the art, values that are expressed as ranges can assume any specific value within the stated ranges in different embodiments of the invention, to the tenth of the unit of the lower limit of the range, unless the context clearly dictates otherwise. It is also to be understood that unless otherwise indicated or otherwise evident from the context and / or the understanding of one of ordinary skill in the art, values expressed as ranges can assume any subrange within the given range, wherein the endpoints of thesubrange are expressed to the same degree of accuracy as the tenth of the unit of the lower limit of the range.
[0078] The disclosure should not be seen in any way restricted to the embodiments described and a person with ordinary skill in the art will foresee many possibilities to modifications thereof. The above-described embodiments are combinable.
[0079] The following dependent claims further set out particular embodiments of the disclosure.ReferencesAdhikari A, Devkota HP, Takano A, Masuda K, Nakane T, Basnet P, Skalko-Basnet N. Screening of Nepalese crude drugs traditionally used to treat hyperpigmentation: in vitro tyrosinase inhibition. Int J Cosmet Sci. 2008 Oct;30(5):353-60.Diffey, B. L. What is light? Photodermatology, Photoimmunology & Photomedicine. 2002, 18, 68–74.Ferreres, F.; Gil-Izquierdo, A.; Vinholes, J.; Silva, S. T.; Valentao, P.; Andrade, P. B. Bauhinia forficata link authenticity using flavonoids profile: Relation with their biological properties. Food Chem. 2012, 134, 894–904.Mansur J. S., Breder M. N. R., Mansur M. C. A., Azulay R. D. Determinação do fator de proteção solar por espectrofotometria. An. Bras. Derm. 1986;61:121–124.Pagels F, Almeida C, Vasconcelos V, Guedes AC. Cosmetic Potential of Pigments Extracts from the Marine Cyanobacterium Cyanobium sp. Mar Drugs. 2022 Jul 27;20(8):481. doi: 10.3390 / md20080481. PMID: 36005483; PMCID: PMC9409843.Petruzzi, Dominique. Market value for natural and organic beauty worldwide 2020-2031. 16 Nov 2022 https: / / www.statista.com / statistics / 673641 / global-market-value-for-natural-cosmetics / Rohr M., Klette E., Ruppert S., Bimzcok R., Klebon B., Heinrich U., Zastrow L. In vitro Sun Protection Factor: Still a Challenge with No Final Answer. Ski. Pharmacol. Physiol.2010;23:201–212. doi: 10.1159 / 000292777.
Claims
C L A I M S1. Composition comprising a mixture of an aqueous extract of Asparagopsis sp. and an aqueous extract of Cystoseira sp.
2. Composition according to the previous claim wherein the species of Asparagopsis sp. is selected from the list consisting of: Asparagopsis taxiformis, Asparagopsis armata; preferably Asparagopsis armata.
3. Composition according to any of the previous claims, wherein the aqueous extract of Asparagopsis sp. and the aqueous extract of Cystoseira sp is a hydroalcoholic extract; preferably wherein the alcohol is selected from a list consisting of: etahnol, isopropanol, or mixtures thereof.
4. Composition according to the previous claim 1 wherein the species of Cystoseira sp. is selected from the list consisting of: Cystoseira tamariscifolia, Cystoseira amentacea, Cystoseira compressa, Cystoseira baccata, Cystoseira humilis; preferably Cystoseira humilis and Cystoseira tamariscifolia.
5. Composition according to any of the previous claims comprising 10-40 % (w / w) of an aqueous extract of Asparagopsis sp. and 60-90 % (w / w) of an aqueous extract of Cystoseira sp.
6. Composition according to any of the previous claims comprising 10-30 % (w / w) of the extract of Asparagopsis sp.; preferably 15-25 % (w / w); more preferably 20 % (w / w).
7. Composition according to any of the previous claim comprising 70-90 % (w / w) of the extract of Cystoseira sp.; preferably 75-85 % (w / w); more preferably 80 % (w / w).
8. Composition according to any of the previous claims comprising an aqueous extract of Asparagopsis armata and an aqueous extract of Cystoseira sp, preferably a hydroalcoholic extract.
9. Composition comprising 10-50 % (w / w) of an hydroalcoholic extract of Asparagopsis armata and 50-90 % (w / w) of an hydroalcoholic extract of Cystoseira sp.
10. Composition according to the previous claim comprising 10-30 % (w / w) of the extract of Asparagopsis armata; preferably 15-25 % (w / w); more preferably 20 % (w / w).
11. Composition according to any of the previous claims 8-9 comprising 70-90 % (w / w) of the extract of Cystoseirasp.; preferably 75-85 % (w / w); more preferably 80 % (w / w).
12. Composition according to any of the previous claims 8-10 wherein the weight ratio between extract of Asparagopsis armata: extract of Cystoseira sp. ranges from 1:3 to 1:9; preferably 1:3 to 1:6; more preferably 1:4.
13. Composition comprising 15-25 % (w / w) of an extract of Asparagopsis armata and 75-85 % (w / w) of an extract of Cystoseira sp..
14. Composition according to any preceding claim, wherein the composition comprises a sun protection factor (SPF) of at least 9 when tested at a concentration of 1 mg-mL“1, preferably an SPF from 10 to 50, more preferably an SPF of about 43.
15. Composition according to any of the previous claims wherein the extracts are dried extracts.
16. Topical composition comprising the composition according to any of the previous claims;preferably comprising 5-30% (w / w) of the composition according to any of the previous claims; more preferably 10-25% (w / w); even more preferably 15% (w / w).
17. Topical composition according to any of the previous claims further comprising 0.1-2% (w / w) of an antioxidant ascorbic acid; preferably 0.2-1% (w / w); more preferably 0.3-0.8 % (w / w).
18. Topical composition according to the previous claims wherein the antioxidant is ascorbic acid.
19. Topical composition according to the previous claim further comprising 60 -90% (w / w) of glycerin; preferably 65-75% (w / w).
20. Topical composition according to any of the previous claims 15-18 wherein the topical composition is selected from a list consisting of: solution, serum, cream, lotion, gel, hydrogel, oil, soap, shampoo, stick- or bar-shaped solid, spray, ointment, paste, mousse or body wash; preferably cream, lotion, gel, hydrogel; more preferably a cream.
21. Topical composition according to any of the previous claims 15-19 further comprising a cosmetically or dermatologically acceptable ingredient selected from the list consisting of: preservatives, emollients, emulsifying agents, surfactants, moisturizers, thickening agents, conditioning agents, film-forming agents, stabilizing agents, anti-oxidants, anti- inflammatory / skin calming agents, texturizing agents, gloss agents, mattifying agents, solubilizers, pigments, dyes, fragrances, sunscreens, whitening agents or mixtures thereof.
22. Composition according to any of the previous claims 1-14 or topical composition according to any of the previous claims 15-20 for use in medicine.
23. Composition or topical composition for use according to the previous claim for use in the prevention or treatment of cancer; preferably skin cancer.
24. Composition or topical composition for use according to the previous claim 22 for use in the prevention or treatment of topical inflammation.
25. Composition or topical composition for use according to the previous claim 22for use as an ultraviolet radiation blocking agent.
26. Use of the composition or topical composition according to any of the previous claims 1- 25 as an ultraviolet radiation blocking agent.
27. Use of the composition according to any of the previous claims 1-25 as an antioxidant agent in a cosmetic / medical composition.
28. Use of the composition according to any of the previous claims 1-25 as a skin hydration agent.
29. Use of the composition according to any of the previous claims 1-25 as an antiaging agent, anti-wrinkle, anti-hyperpigmentaion and / or anti-elastase agent.
30. Method for obtaining the composition according to any of the previous claims 1-25 comprising the steps of:obtaining dried seaweeds of Asparagopsis sp. and dried seaweeds of Cystoseira sp.; milling, independently, said dried seaweeds;mixing each milled dried seaweeds with an aqueous extraction solvent to form a first mixture of Asparagopsis sp. comprising a liquid fraction and a solid fraction and a second mixture of Cystoseira sp. comprising a liquid fraction and a solid fraction;stirring each mixture;separating the liquid fraction and the solid fraction of each mixture;concentrating each liquid fraction to obtain a first extract of Asparagopsis sp. and a second extract of Cystoseira sp.;drying each extract to obtain a first dry extract of Asparagopsis sp. and a second dry extract of Cystoseira sp.;mixing the first dry extract of Asparagopsis sp. with the second dry extract of Cystoseira sp.
31. Method according to the previous claim wherein the ratio between milled dried seaweeds: aqueousextraction solvent ranges from 1:5 (m / V) to 1:80 (m / V); preferably 1:20 (m / V); preferably hydroalcoholic solvent.
32. Method according to any of the previous claims 30-31 wherein the species of Asparagopsis sp. is Asparagopsis armata and the species of Cystoseira sp. is Cystoseira humilis and Cystoseira tamariscifolia.
33. Composition or method according to any of the previous claims wherein the extract of Asparagopsis sp. is obtained from thallus of Asparagopsis sp.
34. Composition or method according to any of the previous claims wherein the extract of Cystoseira sp. is obtained from thallus of Cystoseira sp.