Composition comprising polyion complex and selected skin care active ingredient
A hyaluronic acid-based polyion complex composition with specific polymer and active ingredient ratios addresses stickiness issues, enhancing user experience and providing cosmetic benefits like moisturization and anti-wrinkle effects.
Patent Information
- Authority / Receiving Office
- WO · WO
- Patent Type
- Applications
- Current Assignee / Owner
- LOREAL SA
- Filing Date
- 2025-11-27
- Publication Date
- 2026-06-18
AI Technical Summary
Cosmetic compositions containing hyaluronic acid-based polyion complexes often exhibit stickiness, which can negatively impact user experience.
A composition comprising a hyaluronic acid-based polyion complex with specific ratios of cationic polymers, anionic polymers, non-polymeric acids, and skin care active ingredients such as microorganism lysates and adenosine compounds, which form a polyion complex that reduces stickiness and improves texture.
The composition achieves reduced stickiness and provides improved cosmetic effects like moisturization and anti-wrinkle benefits while maintaining a smooth texture, using environmentally-friendly ingredients.
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Abstract
Description
[0001] DESCRIPTION
[0002] TITLE OF INVENTION
[0003] COMPOSITION COMPRISING POLYION COMPLEX AND SELECTED SKIN CARE ACTIVE INGREDIENT
[0004] TECHNICAL FIELD
[0005] The present invention relates to a composition including a polyion complex and a selected skin care active ingredient, as well as a cosmetic process using the composition.
[0006] BACKGROUND ART
[0007] As is known in the art, certain cosmetic compositions use a polyion complex, which is formed with an anionic polymer and a cationic polymer.
[0008] For example, WO 2021 / 125069 discloses a composition which is useful for cosmetic treatments and comprises at least one polyion complex particle comprising at least one cationic polymer, at least one anionic polymer, and at least one non-polymeric acid having two or more pKa values. WO 2021 / 125069 also discloses that the composition disclosed therein may include oil and may be in the form of an emulsion.
[0009] DISCLOSURE OF INVENTION
[0010] It has been found that a composition comprising a hyaluronic acid-based polyion complex shows, in some cases, stickiness.
[0011] Thus, an objective of the present invention is to provide a composition comprising a hyaluronic acid-based polyion complex with reduced stickiness.
[0012] The above objective of the present invention can be achieved by a composition, preferably a cosmetic composition, and more preferably a cosmetic composition for a keratin material such as skin, comprising:
[0013] (a) at least one cationic polymer;
[0014] (b) at least one anionic polymer;
[0015] (c) at least one non-polymeric acid having two or more pKa values or salt(s) thereof; and
[0016] (d) at least one skin care active ingredient selected from the group consisting of (dl) microorganism lysates, (d2) adenosine compounds, and mixtures thereof, wherein the (a) cationic polymer is selected from polylysines, chitosans, and mixtures thereof, and the (b) anionic polymer is selected from hyaluronic acid, derivatives thereof, salts thereof, and mixtures thereof.
[0017] The (a) cationic polymer may be selected from poly lysines.
[0018] The amount of the (a) cationic polymer(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.001% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.002% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 0.003% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. The (b) anionic polymer may be selected from the group consisting of hyaluronic acid, hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid, acetylated hyaluronic acid, hyaluronic acid crosspolymer, a salt thereof, and a mixture thereof.
[0019] The (b) anionic polymer may be selected from the group consisting of hyaluronic acid, hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid, a salt thereof, and a mixture thereof, preferably the group consisting of hyaluronic acid, hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid, an alkaline metal salt thereof, and a mixture thereof, and more preferably the group consisting of hyaluronic acid, sodium hyaluronate, hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid, sodium hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid, and a mixture thereof.
[0020] The composition according to the present invention may comprise, as the (b) anionic polymers, at least two hyaluronic acids or salts thereof with different molecular weights, preferably a first hyaluronic acid or a salt thereof with a molecular weight of 100 kDa or less and a second hyaluronic acid or a salt thereof with a molecular weight of 500 kDa or more, and more preferably a first hyaluronic acid or a salt thereof with a molecular weight of 50 kDa or less and a second hyaluronic acid or a salt thereof with a molecular weight of 1,000 kDa or more.
[0021] The amount of the (b) anionic polymer(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0022] The (c) non-polymeric acid having two or more pKa values or salt(s) thereof may be an organic acid or salt(s) thereof, preferably a hydrophilic or water-soluble organic acid or salt(s) thereof, and more preferably phytic acid or salts thereof.
[0023] The amount of the (c) non-polymeric acid(s) having two or more pKa values or salt(s) thereof in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.001% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.002% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 0.003% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0024] The (dl) microorganism lysate may be selected from lysates of the genus Bifidobacterium, preferably chosen from the group consisting of Bifidobacterium longum, Bifidobacterium bifidum, Bifidobacterium breve, Bifidobacterium animalis, Bifidobacterium lactis, Bifidobacterium infantis, Bifidobacterium adolescentis, Bifidobacterium pseudocatenulatum, and mixtures thereof, and more preferably Bifidobacterium longum.
[0025] The amount of the (dl) microorganism lysate(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.01% to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 25% by wright, and more preferably from 0.1% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0026] It is preferable that the (d2) adenosine compound is selected from the group consisting of adenosine, 2’-deoxyadensine, adenosine phosphates, and mixtures thereof; and mixtures thereof, and more preferably adenosine.
[0027] The amount of the (d2) adenosine compound(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.001% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.01% to 10% by wright, and more preferably from 0.04% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0028] The present invention also relates to a cosmetic process for a keratin material such as skin, comprising applying to the keratin material the composition according to the present invention.
[0029] BEST MODE FOR CARRYING OUT THE INVENTION
[0030] After diligent research, the inventors have discovered that it is possible to provide a composition comprising a hyaluronic acid-based polyion complex with reduced stickiness.
[0031] Thus, the composition according to the present invention comprises:
[0032] (a) at least one cationic polymer;
[0033] (b) at least one anionic polymer;
[0034] (c) at least one non-polymeric acid having two or more pKa values or salt(s) thereof; and
[0035] (d) at least one skin care active ingredient selected from the group consisting of (dl) microorganism lysates, (d2) adenosine compounds, and mixtures thereof, wherein the (a) cationic polymer is selected from polylysines, chitosans, and mixtures thereof, and the (b) anionic polymer is selected from hyaluronic acid, derivatives thereof, salts thereof, and mixtures thereof.
[0036] The (a) cationic polymer, the (b) anionic polymer, and the (c) non-polymeric acid having two or more pKa values or salt(s) thereof can form a polyion complex. In particular, the (a) cationic polymer can be ionically crosslinked by the (c) non-polymeric acid having two or more pKa values or salt(s) thereof.
[0037] The polyion complex may be in the form of a droplet. If the polyion complex is in the form of a droplet, the size of the droplet may be from 5 nm to 100 pm, preferably from 100 nm to 50 pm, more preferably from 200 nm to 40 pm, and even more preferably from 500 nm to 30 pm. A droplet size less than 1 pm can be measured by a dynamic light scattering method, and a droplet size more than 1 pm can be measured by an optical microscope.
[0038] The composition according to the present invention can show reduced stickiness.
[0039] The stickiness of the composition according to the present invention is lower than that of the composition comprising the ingredients (a) to (c), without the ingredient (d). In other words, the use of the selected skin care active ingredient (dl) and / or (d2) in a composition including the ingredients (a) to (c) can reduce the stickiness of the composition.
[0040] The term “stickiness” here means a property which provides a tacky feeling to the skin.
[0041] Thus, the composition according to the present invention can provide improved texture such as smoother feeling to the touch.
[0042] In addition, the composition according to the present invention can provide cosmetic effects based on the (d) skin care active ingredient. In general, when increasing the amount of skin care active ingredient(s) in a composition, in some cases, the composition may show increased stickiness. However, the composition according to the present invention can include an increased amount of the (d) skin care active ingredient, without increasing stickiness.
[0043] Further, the composition according to the present invention can provide cosmetic effects, such as moisturizing and anti-wrinkle effects, based on the hyaluronic acid, derivatives thereof or salts thereof.
[0044] Furthermore, as polylysines and chitosans as well as hyaluronic acid, derivatives thereof, and salts thereof can be. obtained from natural sustainable resources, such as biomass, the (a) cationic polymer and the (b) anionic polymer may be environmentally-friendly ingredients. Therefore, the composition according to the present invention can include an environmentally-friendly ingredient.
[0045] Hereinafter, the present invention will be explained in a more detailed manner.
[0046] [Composition]
[0047] The composition according to the present invention comprises:
[0048] (a) at least one cationic polymer;
[0049] (b) at least one anionic polymer;
[0050] (c) at least one non-polymeric acid having two or more pKa values or salt(s) thereof; and
[0051] (d) at least one skin care active ingredient selected from the group consisting of (dl) microorganism lysates, (d2) adenosine compounds, and mixtures thereof, wherein the (a) cationic polymer is selected from polylysines, chitosans, and mixtures thereof, and the (b) anionic polymer is selected from hyaluronic acid, derivatives thereof, salts thereof, and mixtures thereof.
[0052] (Cationic Polymer)
[0053] The composition according to the present invention comprises (a) at least one cationic polymer. Two or more different types of cationic polymers may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of a cationic polymer or a combination of different types of cationic polymers may be used.
[0054] The (a) cationic polymer has a positive charge density. The charge density of the (a) cationic polymer may be from 0.01 meq / g to 20 meq / g, preferably from 0.05 to 15 meq / g, and more preferably from 0.1 to 10 meq / g.
[0055] The molecular weight (Da) of the (a) cationic polymer may be less than 20,000, preferably less than 15,000, and more preferably less than 10,000.
[0056] The molecular weight (Da) of the (a) cationic polymer may be more than 1,000, preferably more than 1,500, and more preferably more than 2,000.
[0057] Thus, the molecular weight (Da) of the (a) cationic polymer may be more than 1,000 and less than 20,000, preferably more than 1,500 and less than 15,000, and more preferably more than 2,000 and less than 10,000. Unless otherwise defined in the descriptions, “molecular weight” means a weight average molecular weight. The molecular weight can be measured or determined by a gel permeation chromatography, for example, in accordance with ASTM D5296-19.
[0058] According to the present invention, the (a) cationic polymer is selected from the group consisting of polylysines chitosans, and mixtures thereof.
[0059] Polylysine is well known.
[0060] Polylysines correspond to the condensation of several amino acids of lysine. Polylysine can be a natural homopolymer of L-lysine that can be produced by bacterial fermentation. Polylysines are typically used as a natural preservative in food products. Polylysine is a polyelectrolyte which is soluble in polar solvents such as water.
[0061] Polylysine can be, for example, epsilon-polylysine (or referred as “s-polylysine”), which is a condensation of amino groups at the s-position and carboxyl groups of lysines, or alphapolylysine (or referred as “a-polylysine”), which is a condensation of amino groups at the a- position and carboxyl groups of lysines. Polylysine is commercially available in various forms, such as poly D-lysine and poly L-lysine. The polylysine is generally a condensate of L-lysines, i.e., poly L-lysine. It is preferable that the polylysine is POLYEPSILON-LYSINE (INCI name).
[0062] As an example of polylysine, mention may be made of:
[0063] Epsilon-poly-L-lysine of JNC CORPORATION which is a 25% solution of Epsilon- poly-L-lysine having a molecular weight of around 4,700 in aqueous solution; and
[0064] Polylysine (poly-s-lysine) of Shandong Freda Biotechnology which is in the form of white to creamy yellow powder and has a molecular weight between 4,130 and 5,776.
[0065] According to one particular embodiment, the polylysine may be a modified polylysine, for example, a polylysine with a fatty chain as described in application FR 2889448, a polylysine with a guanidine or biguanidine function as described in application FR 2851465, a thiolated polylysine as described in the application FR2853533.
[0066] The polylysine may be in the form of organic or inorganic salts. The addition salts with an acid are, for example, the hydrochloric or hydrobromic acid, sulfuric acid, citric acid, succinic acid, tartaric acid, lactic acid, para-toluenesulphonic acid, phosphoric acid, or acetic acid salts; or fatty acid salts, such as linoleic acid, oleic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, behenic acid, and 18-methylicosanoic acid. The addition salts with a base are, for example, a sodium salt, a calcium salt, or a hydroxyalkylamine salt, for example, N-methylglucamine, aminopropane diol or triethanolamine.
[0067] In some preferred embodiments of the present invention, the polylysine of the present invention is present in a form of a single molecule in the composition, or is not covalently bound to other compounds. In one embodiment of the present invention, the polylysine is not covalently bound to dye compounds. In one embodiment of the present invention, the polylysine is not covalently bound to polyorganosiloxane compounds. The term “polyorganosiloxane” is well-known in the art to mean compounds having Si-0 main chain and organic functional groups attached to the main chain. In another embodiment of the present invention, the polylysine is in the free form. The term “free form” here indicates that the polylysine is not covalently bound to any other compounds.
[0068] Chitosan is also well known.
[0069] Chitosan is very uncommon in nature. It is only reported in the exoskeletons of certain insects such as termite queens and in the cell walls of a particular class of fungi, zygomycetes.
[0070] Chitosan may be obtained by deacetylation of chitin. Chitin is a polysaccharide composed of several N-acetyl-D-glucosamine units linked together by a type P bond (1,4).
[0071] The ideal chemical structure of chitosan is a sequence of P-D-glucosamine monomers connected by a glycosidic bond (1— >4).
[0072] "Chitosan" according to the present invention means any copolymer formed of constituent units N-acetyl-D-glucosamine and D-glucosamine, whose degree of acetylation is less than 90%, preferably less than 80%, preferably less than 70%, preferably less than 60%, preferably less than 50%. Chitosan consists of glucosamine sugar units (deacetylated units) and N- acetyl-D-glucosamine units (acetylated units) linked together by P type bonds (1,4) and is a polymer of the Poly (N-acetyl-D-glucosamine)-poly (D-glucosamine) type.
[0073] More preferably, the degree of acetylation of chitosan is less than or equal to 40%, preferably less than or equal to 35%, preferably less than or equal to 25%, preferably less than or equal to 15%, and preferably less than or equal to 10%.
[0074] The degree of acetylation is the percentage of acetylated units relative to the number of total units, it can be determined by Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy (FT-IR) or by titration by a strong base.
[0075] The chitosan of the present invention is preferably a polysaccharide prepared from a fungal origin. In particular, it is extracted and purified from safe and abundant food or biotechnological fungal sources such as Agaricus bisporus or Aspergillus niger.
[0076] The chitosan of the present invention is preferably derived from the mycelium of a fungus of the Ascomycete type, and in particular Aspergillus niger and / or a Basidiomycete fungus, and in particular Lentinula edodes (shiitake) and / or Agaricus bisporus. Preferably the fungus is Aspergillus niger.
[0077] Chitosan may be of GMO (Genetically Modified Organisms) origin, but preferably is of nonGMO origin.
[0078] The chitosan according to the present invention is native, that is to say that it is not modified. In particular, it does not contain any chemical modification.
[0079] One method of preparing chitosan is that described in WO03 / 068824.
[0080] The amount of the (a) cationic polymer(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.001% by weight or more, preferably 0.002% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.003% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition. The amount of the (a) cationic polymer(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 15% by weight or less, preferably 10% by weight or less, and more preferably 5% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0081] The amount of the (a) cationic polymer(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.001% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.002% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 0.003% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0082] (Anionic Polymer)
[0083] The composition according to the present invention comprises (b) at least one anionic polymer. Two or more different types of anionic polymers may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of an anionic polymer or a combination of different types of anionic polymers may be used.
[0084] The (b) anionic polymer has a negative charge density. The charge density of the (b) anionic polymer may be from 0.1 meq / g to 20 meq / g, preferably from 1 to 15 meq / g, and more preferably from 4 to 10 meq / g, if the (b) anionic polymer is a synthetic anionic polymer, and the average substitution degree of the (b) anionic polymer may be from 0.1 to 3.0, preferably from 0.2 to 2.7, and more preferably from 0.3 to 2.5, if the (b) anionic polymer is a natural anionic polymer.
[0085] According to the present invention, the (b) anionic polymer is selected from hyaluronic acids, derivatives thereof, salts thereof, and mixtures thereof.
[0086] The term "hyaluronic acid, derivatives thereof, salts thereof, and mixtures thereof' comprises, in the context of the present invention, hyaluronic acid, hyaluronic acid salts, hyaluronic acid derivatives, hyaluronic acid derivative salts, and mixtures thereof.
[0087] Hyaluronic acid is a predominant glucosaminoglycan found in the skin. Thus, the fibroblasts synthesize predominantly collagens, matrix glycoproteins other than collagens (fibronectin, laminin), proteoglycans and elastin. The keratinocytes, for their part, synthesize predominantly sulfated glycosaminoglycans and hyaluronic acid. Hyaluronic acid is also called hyaluronan.
[0088] Hyaluronic acid is present in the free state in the epidermis and in the dermis and is responsible for turgescence of the skin. This polysaccharide can in fact retain a large volume of water, corresponding to up to 1000 times its weight. In this sense, hyaluronic acid plays an important role in increasing the amounts of water bound in the tissue, and also in the mechanical properties of the skin and in wrinkle formation.
[0089] Hyaluronic acid can be represented by the following chemical formula. In the context of the present invention, the term "hyaluronic acid" covers, in particular the basic unit of hyaluronic acid of formula:
[0090] The above is the smallest fraction of hyaluronic acid, comprising a disaccharide dimer, namely D-glucuronic acid and N-acetylglucosamine.
[0091] The term "hyaluronic acid" comprises, in the context of the present invention, the linear polymer comprising the polymeric unit described above, linked together in the chain via alternating [3(1,4) and 0(1,3) glycosidic linkages, having a molecular weight (Mw) that may range between 380 and 13 000 000 daltons. This molecular weight depends in large part on the source from which the hyaluronic acid is obtained and / or on the preparation methods.
[0092] The term “hyaluronic acid” also comprises, in the context of the present invention, hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid.
[0093] The term "hyaluronic acid derivatives" comprises, in the context of the present invention, hyaluronic acid esters in particular those in which all or some of the carboxylic groups of the acid functions are esterified with oxyethylenated alkyls or alcohols, containing from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, in particular with a degree of substitution at the level of the D-glucuronic acid of the hyaluronic acid ranging from 0.5% to 50%.
[0094] Mention may in particular be made of methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, n-pentyl, benzyl and dodecyl esters of hyaluronic acid. Such esters have in particular been described in D. Campoccia et al. "Semisynthetic resorbable materials from hyaluronan esterification", Biomaterials 19 (1998) 2101-2127.
[0095] In one embodiment, the hyaluronic acid derivative may be, for example, acetylated hyaluronic acid.
[0096] As hyaluronic acid salts or hyaluronic acid derivative salts, mention may be made of alkaline metal salts such as sodium salt and potassium salt, alkaline earth metal salts such as magnesium salts, ammonium salts, and mixtures thereof.
[0097] In one embodiment, it may be preferable that the (b) anionic polymer be selected from the group consisting of hyaluronic acid, hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid, acetylated hyaluronic acid, hyaluronic acid crosspolymer, a salt thereof, and a mixture thereof. For example, the (b) anionic polymer may be selected from the group consisting of hyaluronic acid, sodium hyaluronate, potassium hyaluronate, sodium hydrolyzed hyaluronate, hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid, sodium acetylated hyaluronate, sodium hyaluronate crosspolymer, and a mixture thereof. In another embodiment, it may be preferable that the (b) anionic polymer be selected from the group consisting of hyaluronic acid, hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid, a salt thereof, and a mixture thereof, more preferably the group consisting of hyaluronic acid, hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid, an alkaline metal salt thereof, and a mixture thereof, and even more preferably the group consisting of hyaluronic acid, sodium hyaluronate, hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid, sodium hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid, and a mixture thereof.
[0098] In another embodiment, it may be preferable that the (b) anionic polymer be selected from hyaluronic acid salts, more preferably hyaluronic acid alkaline metal salts, and even more preferably sodium hyaluronate.
[0099] The molecular weight of the (b) anionic polymer is not limited. The molecular weight of the (b) anionic polymer may be 5 kDa or more, preferably 20 kDa or more, and more preferably 100 kDa or more. The molecular weight of the (b) anionic polymer may be 20 MDa or less, preferably 10 MDa or less, and more preferably 2,000 kDa or less. Thus, the molecular weight of the (b) anionic polymer may be from 5 kDa to 20 MDa, preferably from 20 kDa to 10 MDa, and more preferably from 100 kDa to 2,000 kDa.
[0100] Unless otherwise defined in the descriptions, “molecular weight” may mean a weight average molecular weight. The molecular weight can be measured or determined by a gel permeation chromatography, for example, in accordance with ASTM D5296-19.
[0101] The (b) anionic polymer may, in particular, be hyaluronic acid supplied by the company Centipro under the trade name Hy Active™ (Mw: 10 to 150 kDa), by the company Givaudan under the trade name Cristalhyal® (Mw: 1 to 1.4 MDa), by the company Bioland under the trade name Nutra™ HA (Mw: 907,600 Da), by the company Bioland under the trade name Nutra™ HAF (Mw: 74,600 Da), by the company Bioland under the trade name Oligo™ HA (Mw: 0.5 to 10.1 kDa), by the company Res Pharma under the trade name D-F actor® (Mw: 380 Da), or by the company Bloomage Biotechnology under the trade name Hybloom™ Sodium Hyaluronate (HA-T) (Mw: 1,100 kDa) and Hybloom™ Low Molecular Weight Sodium Hyaluronate (HA-TLM) (Mw: 20 to 50 kDa), as well as hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid supplied by the company Givaudan under the trade name of PrimalHyal™ 50 (Mw: 20kD to 50kD).
[0102] It is preferable that the composition according to the present invention comprises at least two hyaluronic acids or salts thereof with different molecular weights, as the (b) anionic polymers.
[0103] It may be preferable that the two hyaluronic acids or salts thereof be a combination of the high-molecular- weight hyaluronic acid or a salt thereof, and of the medium-molecular weight hyaluronic acid or a salt thereof, a combination of the high-molecular- weight hyaluronic acid or a salt thereof, and of the low-molecular weight hyaluronic acid or a salt thereof, or a combination of the intermediate-molecular- weight hyaluronic acid or a salt thereof, and of the low-molecular weight hyaluronic acid or a salt thereof.
[0104] It may be preferable that the composition according to the present invention comprises a first hyaluronic acid or a salt thereof with a molecular weight of less than 1,000 kDa and a second hyaluronic acid or a salt thereof with a molecular weight of 1,000 kDa or more.
[0105] In one embodiment, it may be more preferable that the composition according to the present invention comprises a first hyaluronic acid or a salt thereof with a molecular weight of 100 kDa or less and a second hyaluronic acid or a salt thereof with a molecular weight of 500 kDa or more, and more preferably a first hyaluronic acid or a salt thereof with a molecular weight of 50 kDa or less and a second hyaluronic acid or a salt thereof with a molecular weight of 1 ,000 kDa or more.
[0106] The weight ratio of the amount of the first hyaluronic acid (or a salt thereof) / the amount of the second hyaluronic acid (or a salt thereof) may be 1 or more, preferably 5 or more, more preferably 10 or more, and even more preferably 20 or more. The weight ratio of the amount of the first hyaluronic acid (or a salt thereof) / the amount of the second hyaluronic acid (or a salt thereof) may be 100 or less, preferably 90 or less, more preferably 80 or less, and even more preferably 70 or less.
[0107] By using a combination of the at least two hyaluronic acids or salts thereof, with different molecular weights, the texture of the composition according to the present invention may be improved.
[0108] The amount of the (b) anionic polymer(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0109] The amount of the (b) anionic polymer(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 15% by weight or less, preferably 10% by weight or less, and more preferably 5% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0110] The amount of the (b) anionic polymer(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0111] (Non-Polymeric Acid Having Two or More Acid Dissociation Constants)
[0112] The composition according to the present invention includes (c) at least one non-polymeric acid having two or more pKa values or salt(s) thereof, i.e., at least one non-polymeric acid having two or more acid dissociation constants or salt(s) thereof. The pKa value (acid dissociation constant) is well known to those skilled in the art, and should be determined at a constant temperature such as 25 °C.
[0113] The (c) non-polymeric acid having two or more pKa values or salt(s) thereof can be included in the polyion complex which may be in the form of a droplet. The non-polymeric acid having two or more pKa values can function as a crosslinker for the (a) cationic polymer, or the (a) cationic polymer and the (b) anionic polymer.
[0114] The term “non-polymeric” here means that the acid is not obtained by polymerizing two or more monomers. Therefore, the non-polymeric acid does not correspond to an acid obtained by polymerizing two or more monomers such as polycarboxylic acid.
[0115] It is preferable that the molecular weight of the (c) non-polymeric acid having two or more pKa values or salt(s) thereof is 1000 or less, preferably 800 or less, and more preferably 700 or less. There is no limit to the type of the (c) non-polymeric acid having two or more pKa values or salt(s) thereof. Two or more different types of non-polymeric acids having two or more pKa values or salts thereof may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of a non-polymeric acid having two or more pKa values or a salt thereof or a combination of different types of non-polymeric acids having two or more pKa values or salts thereof may be used.
[0116] The term "salt" here means a salt formed by addition of suitable base(s) to the non-polymeric acid having two or more pKa values, which may be obtained from a reaction with the non- polymeric acid having two or more pKa values with the base(s) according to methods known to those skilled in the art. As the salt, mention may be made of metal salts, for example salts with alkaline metal such as Na and K, and salts with alkaline earth metal such as Mg and Ca, and ammonium salts.
[0117] The (c) non-polymeric acid having two or more pKa values or salt(s) thereof may be an organic acid or salt(s) thereof, and preferably a hydrophilic or water-soluble organic acid or salt(s) thereof.
[0118] The non-polymeric acid having two or more pKa values may have at least two acid groups selected from the group consisting of a carboxylic group, a sulfuric group, a sulfonic group, a phosphoric group, a phosphonic group, a phenolic hydroxyl group, and a mixture thereof.
[0119] The non-polymeric acid having two or more pKa values may be a non-polymeric polyvalent acid.
[0120] The non-polymeric acid having two or more pKa values may be selected from the group consisting of dicarboxylic acids, disulfonic acids, and diphosphoric acids, and a mixture thereof.
[0121] The (c) non-polymeric acid having two or more pKa values or salt(s) thereof may be selected from the group consisting of oxalic acid, malonic acid, succinic acid, glutaric acid, adipic acid, pimelic acid, suberic acid, azelaic acid, sebacic acid, fumaric acid, maleic acid, malic acid, citric acid, aconitic acid, oxaloacetic acid, tartaric acid, and salts thereof; aspartic acid, glutamic acid, and salts thereof; terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid or salts thereof (Mexoryl SX), Benzophenone-9; phytic acid, and salts thereof; Red 2 (Amaranth), Red 102 (New Coccine), Yellow 5 (Tartrazine), Yellow 6 (Sunset Yellow FCF), Green 3 (Fast Green FCF), Blue 1 (Brilliant Blue FCF), Blue 2 (Indigo Carmine), Red 201 (Lithol Rubine B), Red 202 (Lithol Rubine BCA), Red 204 (Lake Red CBA), Red 206 (Lithol Red CA), Red 207 (Lithol Red BA), Red 208 (Lithol Red SR), Red 219 (Brilliant Lake Red R), Red 220 (Deep Maroon), Red 227 (Fast Acid Magenta), Yellow 203 (Quinoline Yellow WS), Green 201 (Alizanine Cyanine Green F), Green 204 (Pyranine Cone), Green 205 (Light Green SF Yellowish), Blue 203 (Patent Blue CA), Blue 205 (Alfazurine FG), Red 401 (Violamine R), Red 405 (Permanent Re F5R), Red 502 (Ponceau 3R), Red 503 (Ponceau R), Red 504 (Ponceau SX), Green 401 (Naphtol Green B), Green 402 (Guinea Green B), and Black 401 (Naphtol Blue Black); folic acid, ascorbic acid, erythorbic acid, and salts thereof; cystine and salts thereof; EDTA and salts thereof; glycyrrhizin and salts thereof; and a mixture thereof.
[0122] It may be preferable that the (c) non-polymeric acid having two or more pKa values or salt(s) thereof be selected from the group consisting of terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid and salts thereof (Mexoryl SX), Yellow 6 (Sunset Yellow FCF), ascorbic acid, phytic acid and salts thereof, and a mixture thereof. It is preferable that the (c) non-polymeric acid having two or more pKa values or salt(s) thereof be an organic acid or salt(s) thereof, more preferably a hydrophilic or water-soluble organic acid or salt(s) thereof, and even more preferably phytic acid or salts thereof.
[0123] The amount of the (c) non-polymeric acid having two or more pKa values or salt(s) thereof in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.001% by weight or more, preferably 0.002% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.003% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0124] The amount of the (c) non-polymeric acid having two or more pKa values or salt(s) thereof in the composition according to the present invention may be 15% by weight or less, preferably 10% by weight or less, and more preferably 5% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0125] The amount of the (c) non-polymeric acid having two or more pKa values or salt(s) thereof in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.001% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.002% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 0.003% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0126] (Skin Care Active Ingredient)
[0127] The composition according to the present invention comprises (d) at least one skin care active ingredient. The (d) skin care active ingredient is selected from the group consisting of (dl) microorganism lysates, (d2) adenosine compounds, and mixtures thereof.
[0128] <Microorganism Lysate>
[0129] The composition according to the present invention comprises (dl) at least one microorganism lysate. Two or more different types of microorganism lysates may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of a microorganism lysate or a combination of different types of microorganism lysates may be used.
[0130] A lysate commonly denotes a material obtained at the end of the destruction or dissolution of biological cells by means of a phenomenon termed cell lysis, thus causing release of the intracellular biological constituents naturally contained in the cells of a microorganism under consideration.
[0131] For the purpose of the present invention, the term "microorganism lysate", "lysate of microorganism" or "lysate" is used here without distinction to denote the entire lysate obtained by lysis of the microorganism concerned, or only a fraction thereof.
[0132] The microorganism lysate used for the present invention can be entirely or partly formed from the intracellular biological constituents and from the constituents of the cell walls and membranes of the microorganism.
[0133] More specifically, it contains the cytoplasmic cell fraction containing the enzymes such as lactic acid dehydrogenase, phosphatases, phosphoketolases and transaldolases, and the metabolites. By way of illustration, the cell wall constituents are in particular peptidoglycan, murein or mucopeptide and teichoic acid, and the cell membrane constituents are composed of glycerophospholipid.
[0134] This cell lysis may be accomplished by means of various technologies, such as, for example, osmotic shock, heat shock, by ultrasound, or else under mechanical stress of the centrifugation type.
[0135] More particularly, this lysate can be obtained according to the technology described in U.S. Pat. No. 4,464,362, and in particular according to the following protocol.
[0136] A microorganism under consideration is cultured anaerobically in a suitable culture medium, for example according to the conditions described in documents U.S. Pat. No. 4,464,362 and EP 0 043 128. When the stationary phase of development has been reached, the culture medium can be inactivated by pasteurization, for example at a temperature of from 60 to 65°C for 30 minutes. The microorganisms are then recovered by means of a conventional separation technique, for example membrane filtration, centrifuged, and resuspended in a sterile solution of NaCl at a physiological concentration. The lysate can be obtained by disintegration of such a medium with ultrasound, in order to release therefrom the cytoplasmic fractions, the cell wall fragments and the metabolism-derived products. Next, all the components in their natural distribution are subsequently stabilized in a weakly acidic aqueous solution.
[0137] A lysate having a concentration on the order of from 0.1% to 50%, in particular from 1% to 20%, and especially approximately 5% by weight of active material(s), relative to the total weight thereof, is thus generally obtained.
[0138] The lysate may be used in various forms, in the form of a solution or in pulverulent form.
[0139] It is preferable that the (dl) microorganism lysate be a lysate of the genus Bifidobacterium. Thus, it is preferable that the (dl) microorganism lysate be a lysate of a Bifidobacterium species or a fraction thereof.
[0140] The genus Bifidobacterium may be chosen from the species: Bifidobacterium longum, Bifidobacterium bifidum, Bifidobacterium breve, Bifidobacterium animalis, Bifidobacterium lactis, Bifidobacterium infantis, Bifidobacterium adolescentis or Bifidobacterium pseudocatenulatum, and mixtures thereof.
[0141] The species Bifidobacterium longum is most particularly suitable for the present invention.
[0142] The lysate may advantageously be the lysate registered under the INCI name: Bifida Ferment Lysate, under the EINECS name: Bifidobacterium longum, under EINECS No.: 306-168-4 and under CAS No.: 96507-89-0.
[0143] As the (dl) microorganism lysate, a commercially available product may be used. For example, the product sold under the name Repair Complex CLR® by the company CLR Berlin and which is formed from an inactivated lysate of the species Bifidobacterium longum, may be used as the (dl) microorganism lysate.
[0144] The amount of the (dl) microorganism lysate(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition. The amount of the (dl) microorganism lysate(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 30% by weight or less, preferably 25% by weight or less, and more preferably 20% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0145] The amount of the (dl) microorganism lysate(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.01% to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 25% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0146] <Adenosine Compound>
[0147] The composition according to the present invention comprises (d2) at least one adenosine compound. Two or more different types of adenosine compounds may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of an adenosine compound or a combination of different types of adenosine compounds may be used.
[0148] The (d2) adenosine compound is selected from adenosine and adenosine analogues.
[0149] In the context of the specification, “adenosine” is a nucleoside derived from the condensation of adenine with ribose (in ribofuranose form) via p-N9 glucoside bond. Adenosine plays an important role in biochemical processes, such as energy transfer when it is, for example, in the form of adenosine triphosphate (ATP) and / or adenosine diphosphate (ADP); and also in signal transduction when it is, for example, in the form of cyclic adenosine monophosphate or cAMP.
[0150] Adenosine has the following structural formula:
[0151] Among the adenosine analogues that may be used according to the present invention, mention will be made especially of adenosine receptor agonists and compounds that increase the intracellular or extracellular levels of adenosine.
[0152] Examples of adenosine analogues include: 2'-deoxyadenosine; 2',3'-isopropylideneadenosine; toyocamycin; 1 -methyladenosine; N-6-methyladenosine; adenosine N-oxide; 6- methylmercaptopurine riboside and 6-chloropurine riboside; 5'-adenosine monophosphate; 5'- adenosine diphosphate; and 5'-adenosine triphosphate.
[0153] Other adenosine analogues include adenosine receptor agonists, including phenylisopropyladenosine (PIA), 1 -methylisoguanosine, N6-cyclohexyladenosine (CHA), N6-cyclopentyladenosine (CPA), 2-chloro-N6-cyclopentyladenosine, 2-chloroadenosine, N6- phenyladenosine, 2-phenylaminoadenosine, MECA, N6-phenethyladenosine, 2-p-(2- carboxyethyl)phenethylamino-5'-N-ethylcarboxamidoadenosine (CGS-21680), N- ethylcarboxamidoadenosine (NECA), 5Z-(N-cyclopropyl)carboxamidoadenosine, DPMA (PD 129,944) and metrifudil.
[0154] Among the adenosine analogues that increase the intracellular adenosine concentration, mention may be made of the compounds included in the group formed by erythro-9-(2- hydroxy-3-nonyl)-adenine (EHNA) and iodotubercidine.
[0155] The adenosine analogues may also be compounds of formula (I) below:
[0156] (0 in which:
[0157] Ri and R2, which are identical, denote a linear saturated Ci-Ce or unsaturated C2-C6, or branched saturated or unsaturated C3-C6 hydrocarbon-based radical, or alternatively form, together with the oxygen atoms to which they are attached, an isopropylidene radical;
[0158] R3 denotes:
[0159] (i) a linear saturated C1-C10 or unsaturated C2-C10, or branched saturated or unsaturated C3-C10 hydrocarbon-based radical, optionally substituted with at least one group chosen from -OR', -NR'R", -COOR', CONR'R", -CF3, -F, -OCF3, -CN and -NO2, or
[0160] (ii) a group -COR4 with R4 denoting a linear saturated C1-C9 or unsaturated C2-C9, or branched saturated or unsaturated C3-C9 hydrocarbon-based radical, optionally substituted with at least one group chosen from -OR', -NR'R", -COOR', -CONR'R", - CF3, -F, -OCF3, -CN and -NO2; or
[0161] (iii) a biotin-based ester group;
[0162] R' and R" denoting a hydrogen atom, a linear saturated Ci-Ce or unsaturated C2-C6, or branched saturated or unsaturated C3-C6 hydrocarbon-based radical, optionally substituted with at least one group chosen from -OZ, -NZZ' and -COOZ, Z and Z' denoting, independently of each other, a hydrogen atom or a linear saturated Ci-Ce or unsaturated C2-C6, or branched saturated or unsaturated C3-C6 hydrocarbon-based radical; and the salts, optical isomers and solvates thereof.
[0163] These compounds are described especially in patent application FR 2 899 584 filed by L'Oreal.
[0164] A hydrocarbon-based radical is advantageously a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alkyl radical. Among the alkyl groups that are suitable for use in the invention, mention may be made especially of methyl, ethyl, isopropyl, n-propyl, n-butyl, t-butyl, isobutyl, sec-butyl, pentyl, n-hexyl, cyclopropyl, cyclopentyl, cyclohexyl and allyl groups.
[0165] More preferentially, use is made of compounds of formula (I) for which: Ri and R2 form, together with the oxygen atoms to which they are attached, an isopropylidene radical, R3 denotes: a group -COR4 with R4 denoting a linear C1-C9 hydrocarbon-based radical; or a biotin-based ester group.
[0166] 2',3'-Isopropylidene-5'-acetyladenosine is a known compound, which is described especially in patent application WO-A-2004 / 037 159 (compound 265, page 203) in a pharmaceutical composition for treating obesity. The said document does not describe the application of the composition topically to the skin, especially for treating wrinkles.
[0167] Some of the compounds of formula (I) are known in the prior art and described in the following documents:
[0168] WO-A-2004 / 037159;
[0169] Poppe, L et al.; “Synthesis and characterization of (5'-deoxyadenosin-5'-yl)cobalamin (= ‘adenosylcobalamin’) analogues mimicking the transition-state geometry of coenzyme-B12-dependent rearrangements”; Helvetica Chimica Acta (1993), 76(6), 2367-83;
[0170] Jones, A. S. et al.; “Synthetic analogues of polynucleotides. VII. Syntheses of 5'-O- acryloylnucleosides and copolymers of these with other acryloyl compounds”; Journal of the Chemical Society [Section] C: Organic (1971), (19), 3183-7;
[0171] Momet, D. et al.; “The reaction of myosin with a bromoalkyl analogue of adenosine 40 triphosphate”; FEBS Letters (1977), 84(2), 362-6; 4 25 30 - Huber Gerhard; “esters of adenosine with organic and inorganic” acids; Chem. Ber. 89, 2853-62 (1956) - ref CA52:2027g;
[0172] Takemoto, K. et al.; “Nucleic acid analogues: their specific interaction and applicability”; 5 Polymeric Materials Science and Engineering (1988), 58, 250-3; Purkayastha, Bhupesh C.; Bhattacharyya, S. N; “Use of Ca oxalate monohydrate in the investigation of rare earth and thorium activities”; J. Indian. Chem. Soc. 34, 427- 33 (1957) - ref. CA52:2627h; and
[0173] Peterli, Stefan et aL; “Nitrostyrene derivatives of adenosine 5'-glutarates as selective inhibitors of the epidermal growth factor receptor protein tyrosine kinase”; Helvetica Chimica Acta (1992). 75(3), 696-706.
[0174] As compounds of formula (I), mention may be made especially of the following compounds: 2',3'-isopropylidene-5'-butanoyladenosine, 2',3'-isopropylidene-5'-octanoyladenosine, 2', 3'- isopropylidene-5'-biotinoyl-adenosine, 2',3'-isopropylidene-5'-ethyladenosine, 2', 3'- isopropylidene-5'-octyladenosine, 2',3'-dimethyl-5'-ethyladenosine, 2',3'-dimethyl-5'- butanoyl-adenosine, or 2',3'-isopropylidene-5’-acetyladenosine (CAS No. 15888-38-7).
[0175] The examples of the adenosine compounds include salts and esters of adenosine.
[0176] It is preferable that the (dl) adenosine compound be selected from the group consisting of adenosine, 2’-deoxyadensine, adenosine phosphates, and mixtures thereof; and mixtures thereof.
[0177] As examples of the adenosine phosphate, mention may be made of adenosine monophosphate, adenosine diphosphate, adenosine triphosphate, adenosine cyclic phosphate, and salts thereof such as disodium adenosine monophosphate, disodium adenosine triphosphate, manganese adenosine triphosphate, zinc adenosine triphosphate, and copper adenosine triphosphate.
[0178] Adenosine is more preferred in the present invention. It is especially commercially available from, for example, the companies of Exsymol S.A.M, Ashland, and BioSpectrum Inc.
[0179] The amount of the (d2) adenosine compound(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.001% by weight or more, preferably 0.01% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.04% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0180] The amount of the (d2) adenosine compound(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 15% by weight or less, preferably 10% by weight or less, and more preferably 5% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0181] The amount of the (d2) adenosine compound(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.001% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.01% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 0.04% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0182] (Water)
[0183] The composition according to the present invention may comprise (e) water.
[0184] The (e) water can constitute the aqueous phases, which can be dispersed or discontinuous phases, in the composition according to the present invention.
[0185] The amount of the (e) water may be 20% by weight or more, preferably 30% by weight or more, and more preferably 40% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0186] The amount of the (e) water may be 99% by weight or less, preferably 97% by weight or less, and more preferably 95% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0187] The amount of the (e) water may be from 20% to 99% by weight, preferably from 30% to 97% by weight, and more preferably from 40% to 95% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0188] (pH)
[0189] The pH of the composition according to the present invention may be from 3 to 9, preferably from 3.3 to 8.5, and more preferably from 3.5 to 8.
[0190] At a pH of from 3 to 9, the (a) cationic polymer, the (b) anionic polymer and the (c) non- polymeric acid having two or more pKa values or salt(s) thereof can form a stable complex.
[0191] The pH of the composition according to the present invention may be adjusted by adding at least one alkaline agent and / or at least one acid, other than the (b) non-poly meric acid having two or more pKa values or a salt thereof. The pH of the composition according to the present invention may also be adjusted by adding at least one buffering agent.
[0192] (Embodiments) According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the present invention comprises:
[0193] (a) at least one cationic polymer selected from polylysines, chitosans, and mixtures thereof;
[0194] (b) at least one anionic polymer selected from hyaluronic acid, derivatives thereof, salts thereof, and mixtures thereof;
[0195] (c) at least one non-polymeric acid having two or more pKa values or salt(s) thereof; and
[0196] (d) at least one skin care active ingredient selected from the group consisting of (dl) microorganism lysates, and (d2) adenosine compounds, and mixtures thereof, wherein the amount of the (a) cationic polymer is from 0.001% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, the amount of the (b) anionic polymer is from 0.01% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, the amount of the (c) non-polymeric acid having two or more pKa values or salt(s) thereof is from 0.001% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and the amount of the (dl) microorganism lysate(s) is from 0.01% to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and the amount of the (d2) adenosine compound(s) is from 0.001% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0197] According to a more preferred embodiment, the composition according to the present invention comprises:
[0198] (a’) at least one cationic polymer selected from polylysines;
[0199] (b’) at least one anionic polymer selected from the group consisting of hyaluronic acid, hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid, acetylated hyaluronic acid, hyaluronic acid crosspolymer, a salt thereof, and a mixture thereof;
[0200] (c’) at least one non-polymeric acid having two or more pKa values selected from organic acids, or salt(s) thereof; and
[0201] (d’) at least one skin care active ingredient selected from the group consisting of (dl ’) lysates of the genus Bifidobacterium,' (d2’) adenosine compounds selected from the group consisting of adenosine, 2’-deoxyadensine, adenosine phosphates, and mixtures thereof; and mixtures thereof, wherein the amount of the (a’) cationic polymer is from 0.002% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, the amount of the (b’) anionic polymer is from 0.05% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, the amount of the (c’) non-polymeric acid having two or more pKa values or salt(s) thereof is from 0.002% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and the amount of the (dl’) microorganism lysate(s) is from 0.05% to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and the amount of the (d2’) adenosine compound(s) is from 0.01% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0202] According to an even more preferred embodiment, the composition according to the present invention comprises:
[0203] (a’) at least one cationic polymer selected from poly lysines;
[0204] (b”) at least one anionic polymer selected from the group consisting of hyaluronic acid, sodium hyaluronate, hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid, sodium hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid, and a mixture thereof; (c’ ’) at least one non-polymeric acid having two or more pKa values selected from hydrophilic or water-soluble organic acids, or salt(s) thereof; and
[0205] (d’ ’) at least one skin care active ingredient selected from the group consisting of (dl ’ ’) bifida ferment lysate, (d2”) adenosine, and a mixture thereof, wherein the amount of the (a’) cationic polymer is from 0.003% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, the amount of the (b”) anionic polymer is from 0.1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, the amount of the (c”) non-polymeric acid having two or more pKa values or salt(s) thereof is from 0.003% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and the amount of the (dl”) microorganism lysate(s) is from 0.1% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and the amount of the (d2”) adenosine compound(s) is from 0.04% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0206] (Additional Optional Ingredient)
[0207] The composition according to the present invention may comprise, in addition to the aforementioned ingredients, optional ingredient(s) typically employed in cosmetics, specifically, oils; polyols such as glycerin; organic or inorganic UV filters; surfactants or emulsifiers, hydrophilic or lipophilic thickeners; coloring agents; amphoteric polymers; nonionic polymers; silicones and silicone derivatives; natural extracts derived from animals or vegetables; and the like, within a range which does not impair the effects of the present invention.
[0208] The composition according to the present invention may comprise the above optional additive(s) in an amount of from 0.01% to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 20% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0209] (Preparation)
[0210] The composition according to the present invention can be prepared by mixing the essential ingredient(s) as explained above, and optional ingredient(s), if necessary, as explained above.
[0211] The method and means to mix the above essential and optional ingredients are not limited. Any conventional method and means can be used to mix the above essential and optional ingredients to prepare the composition according to the present invention.
[0212] The composition according to the present invention can be prepared by simple or easy mixing with a conventional mixing means such as a stirrer and a homogenizer. Also, heating may not be necessary. Therefore, the process for preparing the composition according to the present invention may be environmentally friendly.
[0213] (Cosmetic Application)
[0214] The composition according to the present invention may be intended to be used as a cosmetic composition. Thus, the cosmetic composition according to the present invention may be intended for application onto a keratin material. Keratin material here means a material containing keratin as a main constituent element, and examples thereof include the skin, scalp, nails, lips, hair, and the like. Thus, it is preferable that the cosmetic composition according to the present invention be used as a cosmetic composition for a keratin material, such as skin.
[0215] Thus, the cosmetic composition according to the present invention may be a skin cosmetic composition, preferably a skin care composition or a skin makeup composition, and more preferably a skin care composition.
[0216] The composition according to the present invention is suitable as a skin care cosmetic composition, because the composition comprises the (d) skin care active ingredient(s) as well as the (b) anionic polymer(s) selected from hyaluronic acid, derivatives thereof, salts thereof, and mixtures thereof. For example, the composition according to the present invention can be used for moisturizing the skin.
[0217] It is preferable that the composition according to the present invention be a leave-on type. In other words, it is preferable that the composition according to the present invention be used, on a keratin material such as skin, without being rinsing off. Thus, it is preferable that the composition according to the present invention is not a cleansing composition.
[0218] (Form)
[0219] The composition according to the present invention may be in various forms. For example, the composition according to the present invention can be in the form of a solution, an emulsion, a dispersion and the like.
[0220] The composition according to the present invention may be in the form of a lotion, a gel, a serum, a paste, a cream or a balm.
[0221] [Cosmetic Process and Use]
[0222] The present invention also relates to a cosmetic process for a keratin material such as skin, comprising: applying to the keratin material the composition according to the present invention.
[0223] The cosmetic process here means a non-therapeutic cosmetic method for caring for and / or making up the surface of a keratin material such as skin.
[0224] The present invention may also relate to a use of
[0225] (d) at least one skin care active ingredient selected from the group consisting of (dl) microorganism lysates, and (d2) adenosine compounds, and mixtures thereof, in a composition, comprising:
[0226] (a) at least one cationic polymer;
[0227] (b) at least one anionic polymer; and
[0228] (c) at least one non-polymeric acid having two or more pKa values or salt(s) thereof, wherein the (a) cationic polymer is selected from polylysines, chitosans, and mixtures thereof, and the (b) anionic polymer is selected from hyaluronic acid, derivatives thereof, salts thereof, and mixtures thereof, in order to reduce the stickiness of the composition. The composition recited in the above use may include any of the optional ingredients explained above, such as (e) water.
[0229] The above explanations regarding the (a) cationic polymer, the (b) anionic polymer, the (c) non-polymeric acid having two or more pKa values or salt(s) thereof, and the (d) skin care active ingredient, as well as optional ingredients such as the (e) water, for the composition according to the present invention can apply to those in the above use according to the present invention.
[0230] EXAMPLES
[0231] The present invention will be described in a more detailed manner by way of examples. However, they should not be construed as limiting the scope of the present invention.
[0232] Example 1 and Comparative Example 1
[0233] [Preparation]
[0234] Each of the compositions according to Example 1 and Comparative Example 1 was prepared by mixing the ingredients shown in Table 1. The numerical values for the amounts of the ingredients in Table 1 are all based on “% by weight” as active materials.
[0235] Table 1
[0236] * 1 : Sold by CLR under the commercial name of Repair Complex CLR™ PF
[0237] *2: Sold by Bloomage Biotechnology Co., Ltd. under the commercial name of Hybloom™ Low Molecular Weight Sodium Hyaluronate (HA-TLM)
[0238] *3: Sold by Bloomage Biotechnology Co., Ltd. under the commercial name of Hybloom™ Sodium Hyaluronate (HA-T)
[0239] [Evaluation]
[0240] (Stickiness)
[0241] Five professional panelists evaluated the “stickiness” after application of the compositions according to Example 1 and Comparative Example 1. Each panelist took each composition and applied it onto their skin to evaluate the stickiness after application, and graded it from 1 (poor) to 5 (very good), which was then classified in the following 4 categories based on the average of the grade:
[0242] Very Good: From 4.0 to 5.0 (stickiness is not felt at all after application)
[0243] Good: 3.0 or more and less than 4.0 (stickiness is hardly felt after application)
[0244] Poor: 2.0 or more and less than 3.0 (stickiness is felt after application)
[0245] Very Poor: 1.0 or more and less than 2.0 (stickiness is clearly felt after application) The results are shown in Table 1.
[0246] (Summary)
[0247] As is clear from Table 1, the composition according to Example 1 was not sticky, while the composition according to Comparative Example 1 was very sticky. This difference can be attributed to the presence of bifida ferment lysate in the composition according to Example 1.
[0248] Example 2 and Comparative Example 2
[0249] [Preparation]
[0250] Each of the compositions according to Example 2 and Comparative Example 2 was prepared by mixing the ingredients shown in Table 2. The numerical values for the amounts of the ingredients in Table 2 are all based on “% by weight” as active materials.
[0251] Table 2
[0252] *3: Sold by Bloomage Biotechnology Co., Ltd. under the commercial name of Hybloom™ Sodium Hyaluronate (HA-T)
[0253] *4: Sold by Henan Dingxin Pharmaceutical Technology Co., Ltd under the commercial name of Adenosine
[0254] *5 Sold by Givaudan under the commercial name of PrimalHyal™ 50 (Mw: 20kD-50kD)
[0255] [Evaluation] (Stickiness)
[0256] Five professional panelists evaluated the “stickiness” after application of the compositions according to Example 2 and Comparative Example 2. Each panelist took each composition and applied it onto their skin to evaluate the stickiness after application, and graded it from 1 (poor) to 5 (very good), which was then classified in the following 4 categories based on the average of the grade:
[0257] Very Good: From 4.0 to 5.0 (stickiness is not felt at all after application)
[0258] Good: 3.0 or more and less than 4.0 (stickiness is hardly felt after application)
[0259] Poor: 2.0 or more and less than 3.0 (stickiness is felt after application)
[0260] Very Poor: 1.0 or more and less than 2.0 (stickiness is clearly felt after application)
[0261] The results are shown in Table 2.
[0262] (Summary)
[0263] As is clear from Table 2, the composition according to Example 2 was less sticky, while the composition according to Comparative Example 2 was very sticky. This difference can be attributed to the presence of adenosine in the composition according to Example 2.
Claims
CLAIMS1 A composition, preferably a cosmetic composition, and more preferably a cosmetic composition for a keratin material, such as skin, comprising:(a) at least one cationic polymer;(b) at least one anionic polymer;(c) at least one non-polymeric acid having two or more pKa values or salt(s) thereof; and(d) at least one skin care active ingredient selected from the group consisting of (dl) microorganism lysates, (d2) adenosine compounds, and mixtures thereof, wherein the (a) cationic polymer is selected from polylysines, chitosans, and mixtures thereof, and the (b) anionic polymer is selected from hyaluronic acid, derivatives thereof, salts thereof, and mixtures thereof.
2. The composition according to Claim 1, wherein the (a) cationic polymer is selected from polylysines.
3. The composition according to Claim 1 or 2, wherein the amount of the (a) cationic polymer(s) in the composition is from 0.001% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.002% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 0.003% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
4. The composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 3, wherein the (b) anionic polymer is selected from the group consisting of hyaluronic acid, hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid, acetylated hyaluronic acid, hyaluronic acid crosspolymer, a salt thereof, and a mixture thereof.
5. The composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 4, wherein the (b) anionic polymer is selected from the group consisting of hyaluronic acid, hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid, a salt thereof, and a mixture thereof, preferably the group consisting of hyaluronic acid, hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid, an alkaline metal salt thereof, and a mixture thereof, and more preferably the group consisting of hyaluronic acid, sodium hyaluronate, hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid, sodium hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid, and a mixture thereof.
6. The composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 5, wherein the composition comprises, as the (b) anionic polymers, at least two hyaluronic acids or salts thereof with different molecular weights, preferably a first hyaluronic acid or a salt thereof with a molecular weight of 100 kDa or less and a second hyaluronic acid or a salt thereof with a molecular weight of 500 kDa or more, and more preferably a first hyaluronic acid or a salt thereof with a molecular weight of 50 kDa or less and a second hyaluronic acid or a salt thereof with a molecular weight of 1 ,000 kDa or more.
7. The composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 6, wherein the amount of the (b) anionic polymer(s) in the composition is from 0.01% to 15% by weight,preferably from 0.05% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
8. The composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 7, wherein the (c) non- polymeric acid having two or more pKa values or salt(s) thereof is an organic acid or salt(s) thereof, preferably a hydrophilic or water-soluble organic acid or salt(s) thereof, and more preferably phytic acid or salts thereof.
9. The composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 8, wherein the amount of the (c) non-polymeric acid(s) having two or more pKa values or salt(s) thereof in the composition is from 0.001% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.002% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 0.003% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
10. The composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 9, wherein the (dl) microorganism lysate is selected from lysates of the genus Bifidobacterium, preferably chosen from the group consisting of Bifidobacterium longum, Bifidobacterium bifidum, Bifidobacterium breve, Bifidobacterium animalis, Bifidobacterium lactis, Bifidobacterium infantis, Bifidobacterium adolescentis, Bifidobacterium pseudocatenulatum, and mixtures thereof, and more preferably Bifidobacterium longum.
11. The composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 10, wherein the amount of the (dl) microorganism lysate(s) in the composition is from 0.01% to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 25% by wright, and more preferably from 0.1% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
12. The composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 11, wherein the (d2) adenosine compound is selected from the group consisting of adenosine, 2’-deoxyadensine, adenosine phosphates, and mixtures thereof; and mixtures thereof, and preferably adenosine.
13. The composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 12, wherein the amount of the (d2) adenosine compound(s) in the composition is from 0.001% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.01% to 10% by wright, and more preferably from 0.04% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
14. The composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 13, wherein the composition further comprises (e) water.
15. A cosmetic process for a keratin material such as skin, comprising applying to the keratin material the composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 14.