Hair-conditioning, storage-stable oil-in-water emulsion for the oxidative color change of keratin fibers

Abstract

The present invention relates to an agent for the oxidative color change of keratin fibers which is in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion and has improved storage stability, as well as to a method for the oxidative color change using the aforementioned oxidative color-changing agent in emulsion form.

Description

[0001] Henkel AG & Co. KGaA 2024P00188WO June 24, 2025

[0002] "Hair-conditioning, storage-stable oil-in-water emulsion for oxidative color change of keratin fibers"

[0003] The present invention relates to an agent in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion for oxidative color change of keratinous fibers with high care properties and improved storage stability, and to a method for oxidative color change using the aforementioned oxidative color change agent in emulsion form.

[0004] For permanent, intense colorations with corresponding fastness properties, so-called oxidative dyes are used. Oxidative dyes typically consist of two components: one component usually contains oxidative dye precursors, known as developer components, and coupler components. Under the influence of oxidizing agents, particularly hydrogen peroxide, which are added to the first component shortly before application to the hair, or by atmospheric oxygen, the developer components react with each other or with one or more coupler components to form the actual dyes. Commonly used developer components include primary aromatic amines with an additional free or substituted hydroxyl or amino group in the para- or ortho-position, diaminopyridine derivatives, heterocyclic hydrazones, 4-aminopyrazolone derivatives, and 2,4,5,6-tetraaminopyrimidine and its derivatives.The coupler components typically used are m-phenylenediamine derivatives, naphthols, resorcinol and resorcinol derivatives, pyrazolones, m-aminophenols, and substituted pyridine derivatives. These oxidation dyes are characterized by excellent, long-lasting color results.

[0005] Conventional oxidative hair dyes have a more alkaline pH value, usually well above 8.5, to stabilize the dye precursors during storage and to accelerate the reaction during oxidative application. This pH is adjusted using alkalizing agents such as alkanolamines, ammonia, or inorganic bases. Ammonia, in particular, enables good coloring results, but its odor and potential to irritate skin and mucous membranes also present disadvantages for the user. The alkalizing agent causes the keratin fibers to swell, allowing the dye precursors to penetrate the hair effectively. However, the alkaline pH also intensifies the damaging effect of the oxidizing agent on the hair structure. This damage to the hair structure, which is particularly noticeable quickly, involves the flaking of the cuticle, the outer layer of the keratin fiber.This manifests as increased roughness, a poorer feel, reduced shine, and decreased fiber stability. The roughened cuticle structure allows small molecules, such as water, to escape more quickly. As a result, damaged hair loses further suppleness and elasticity. Furthermore, the roughened fiber surface impairs colorfastness.

[0006] To reduce hair damage caused by alkaline oxidative colorants, these products often contain fats or oils. The content of oil and / or fat components can also reduce ammonia release after application to the hair when ammonium hydroxide and ammonium salts are used as alkalizing agents. Furthermore, the leveling properties of the hair dye can be improved by the presence of oil and / or fat components, resulting in a less selective color that adheres to both damaged and undamaged areas of the keratin fibers with approximately equal intensity.

[0007] Many oxidation dye precursors are aromatic amines. Some of these aromatic amines are preferably used in the form of their salts, especially sulfates and hydrogen sulfates, because these are more stable and easier to handle than the free amines. In the alkaline medium of the dye, the free amines are released from the salt and form the dyes. The oxidation dye precursors in salt form introduce a higher salt load into the dyeing component. This is especially true for darker shades, which generally contain a higher concentration of oxidation dye precursors. Dyeing components in emulsion form are often less stable during storage due to this high salt concentration and tend to separate the oil and water phases over time. This phase separation is accelerated by an increase in storage temperature.For a mass-produced emulsion, thermal stability is essential, as the product can be exposed to significant temperature fluctuations during transport from production through various intermediate storage facilities to the point of sale in online or brick-and-mortar retail. Both high and very low temperatures can negatively impact emulsion stability. However, particularly problematic are temperatures of 50°C and above, such as those typically encountered during ocean transport by container ship.

[0008] State of the art

[0009] The patent application WO 2024 / 026212 A1 discloses coconut oil in an amount of 0.8 - 2 wt.% for improving the storage stability of cream bases for the alkalizing component of oxidative dyeing and brightening agents, which contain, in addition to the coconut oil, 50 to 75 wt.% of another oil.

[0010] The present application was based on the objective of providing an agent for the oxidative color modification of keratinous fibers with a certain oil content to achieve particularly good conditioning effects, which also exhibits high emulsion stability even under challenging storage conditions. The present application further aimed to provide an emulsion-like agent for the oxidative coloring of keratinous fibers with improved storage stability, in particular with the lowest possible salt load to enhance emulsion stability.

[0011] It was surprisingly found that an oxidative color-changing agent based on an oil-in-water emulsion with a coconut oil content of more than 5 wt% to 20 wt%, additional oils in a total amount of zero to a maximum of 5 wt%, surfactants, fatty alcohols and alkalizing agents exhibits excellent emulsion stability and excellent storage stability properties.

[0012] The present invention relates, in a first embodiment, to an agent for the oxidative color modification of keratinous fibers, in particular human hair, which is in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion and which contains, based on its weight, the following components: a) 45 to 85 wt.%, preferably 50 to 80 wt.%, particularly preferably 55 to 75 wt.%, most preferably 58 to 70 wt.% water, b) more than 5 wt.% to 20 wt.% coconut oil, c) additional oils in a total amount of zero to a maximum of 5 wt.%, d) at least one surfactant in a total amount of 4 to 15 wt.%, preferably 5 to 11 wt.%, e) at least one linear 1-alkanol with 8 to 40 carbon atoms in a total amount – based on the weight of the agent – ​​of 5 to 15 wt.%, preferably 7 to 13 wt.%, particularly preferably 8 to 10 wt.%. f) at least one alkalizing agent, g) zero to less than 0.1 wt.-% of peroxide compounds, g) optionally at least one developer-type oxidation dye precursor and at least one coupler-type oxidation dye precursor, wherein the composition has a pH value in the range of 8.0 to 11.5, preferably in the range of 9.0 to 11.0, particularly preferably in the range of 9.5 to 10.7, most preferably 9.8 to 10.5, each measured at a temperature of 20 °C.

[0013] Surfactants and emulsifiers as defined in this application are amphiphilic (bifunctional) compounds consisting of at least one hydrophobic and at least one hydrophilic molecular moiety. The hydrophobic moiety is preferably a hydrocarbon group with 8-28 carbon atoms, which may be saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched. A linear 8-28 alkyl group is particularly preferred. Key properties of the surfactants and emulsifiers include oriented absorption at interfaces, aggregation into micelles, and the formation of lyotropic phases.

[0014] All information concerning the states of matter (solid, liquid, gaseous) in this application refers to standard conditions. For the purposes of this application, "standard conditions" are a temperature of 25°C and a pressure of 1013.25 mbar.

[0015] The composition according to the invention is an oil-in-water emulsion. The composition according to the invention further comprises the alkalizing component of a two-part oxidative dyeing or lightening agent, which is mixed with an aqueous hydrogen peroxide solution shortly before application and then applied to the hair.

[0016] The composition according to the invention contains, based on its weight, 45 to 85 wt.%, preferably 50 to 80 wt.%, particularly preferably 55 to 75 wt.%, and most preferably 58 to 70 wt.% water.

[0017] Another mandatory component of the compositions according to the invention, and of preferred compositions according to the invention, is a coconut oil content in an amount of more than 5 wt.% to 20 wt.%, preferably 7 to 17 wt.%, more preferably 9 to 16 wt.%, particularly preferably 10 to 14 wt.%, and most preferably 11 to 13 wt.%, based on the weight of the composition according to the invention. Particularly good storage stability of the compositions according to the invention has been observed in these quantity ranges.

[0018] In addition to coconut oil in the mandatory quantity range of >5 to 20 wt.%, the compositions according to the invention contain a maximum of only 5 wt.% of additional oils. The compositions according to the invention are therefore further characterized in that, based on the weight of the composition, additional oils are contained in a total quantity of zero to a maximum of 5 wt.%. Surprisingly, it was found that a higher quantity of oils only marginally improves the product performance.

[0019] The oils according to the invention are lipophilic organic substances that are liquid at 25°C and 1013 mbar and have a water solubility of at most 0.001 wt% or less at 20°C and 1013 mbar. Essential oils and perfume oils or fragrances are not considered oils within the meaning of the present invention.

[0020] Examples of the additional oils other than coconut oil (c), the total amount of which in the average according to the invention may be zero and shall be a maximum of 5 wt.%, are selected from branched and saturated or unsaturated alkanols with 6-30 carbon atoms, glycerol triesters of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, optionally hydroxylated Cs2-so fatty acids, including vegetable oils except coconut oil, dicarboxylic acid esters of linear or branched O2-Cio-alkanols, esters of branched saturated or unsaturated fatty alcohols with 2-30 carbon atoms with linear or branched saturated or unsaturated fatty acids with 2-30 carbon atoms, which may be hydroxylated, mineral oil, isoparaffins, polydecenes, silicone oils and mixtures thereof.

[0021] Examples of oils (c) that are liquid at 25°C and 1013 mbar and are selected from branched saturated or unsaturated fatty alcohols with 6–30 carbon atoms are 2-octyldodecanol, 2-hexyldecanol, and 2-ethylhexyl alcohol. Examples of triglycerides of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, optionally hydroxylated calcium-aloic fatty acids that are liquid at 25°C and 1013 mbar are argan oil, moringa oil, macadamia oil, apricot kernel oil, marula oil, soybean oil, cottonseed oil, sunflower oil, palm oil, palm kernel oil, linseed oil, almond oil, castor oil, corn oil, olive oil, rapeseed oil, sesame oil, safflower oil, wheat germ oil, and peach kernel oil.

[0022] Examples of dicarboxylic acid esters of linear or branched C2-Cio-alkanols that are liquid at 25°C and 1013 mbar are diisopropyl adipate, di-n-butyl adipate, di-(2-ethylhexyl) adipate, dioctyl adipate, diethyl / di-n-butyl / dioctyl sebacate, diisopropyl sebacate, dioctyl malate, dioctyl maleate, dicaprylyl maleate, diisooctyl succinate, di-2-ethylhexyl succinate and di-(2-hexyldecyl) succinate.

[0023] Examples of esters of linear or branched saturated or unsaturated fatty alcohols with 2–30 carbon atoms and of linear or branched saturated or unsaturated fatty acids with 2–30 carbon atoms, which may be hydroxylated, that are liquid at 25°C and 1013 mbar, are isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, isopropyl isostearate, isopropyl oleate, isooctyl stearate, isononyl stearate, isocetyl stearate, isononyl isononanoate, isotridecyl isononanoate, cetearyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl laurate, 2-ethylhexyl isostearate, 2-ethylhexyl cocoate, 2-octyldodecyl palmitate, 2-butyloctanoic acid, diisotridecyl acetate, and n-butyl stearate. n-Hexyl laurate, n-decyl oleate, oleyl oleate, oleylerucate, erucyl oleate, erucylerucate, hexyl decyl stearate, hexyl decyl laurate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate and 2-ethylhexyl stearate.

[0024] Another mandatory component of the composition according to the invention is a content of at least one surfactant in a total amount of 4–15 wt.%, preferably 5–11 wt.%, based on the weight of the composition according to the invention. Surfactants in these total amounts ensure long-term stable emulsification of the oil and fatty alcohol phase in the external aqueous phase, and also have a surprisingly positive effect on the scalp compatibility of the composition according to the invention.

[0025] Preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that the at least one surfactant is selected from nonionic, anionic, cationic, amphoteric, and zwitterionic surfactants, as well as mixtures thereof, preferably selected from nonionic and anionic surfactants, as well as mixtures thereof. Particularly preferred according to the invention are mixtures of at least one anionic surfactant and at least one nonionic surfactant.

[0026] Further preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized by a content of at least one anionic surfactant in a total amount of 1 - 6 wt.%, preferably 2 - 5 wt.%, particularly preferably 2.5 - 4 wt.%, in each case based on the weight of the composition according to the invention.

[0027] Suitable anionic surfactants include all anionic surfactants suitable for use on the human body, which possess a water-soluble anionic group, for example a carboxylate, sulfate, sulfonate, or phosphate group, and a lipophilic alkyl group with approximately 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 24 carbon atoms, in the molecule. Additionally, the molecule may contain glycol or polyglycol ether groups, ester, ether, and amide groups, as well as hydroxyl groups. Examples of surfactants suitable as anionic surfactants include, in the form of sodium, potassium, and ammonium salts, as well as mono-, di-, and trialkanolammonium salts with 2 to 4 carbon atoms in the alkanol group; non-ethoxylated C8-C18 alkyl sulfates; linear and branched fatty acids with 8 to 30 carbon atoms (soaps); polyethoxylated ether carboxylic acids; acyl sarcosides; acyl taurides; and acyl isethionates.Sulfosuccinic acid mono- and dialkyl esters and sulfosuccinic acid monoalkyl polyoxyethyl esters with 1 to 6 ethylene oxide groups, linear alkanesulfonates, linear alpha-olefin sulfonates, sulfonates of unsaturated fatty acids with up to 6 double bonds, alpha-sulfofaticial methyl esters of fatty acids, C8-C2o alkyl ether sulfates with 1 to 4 ethoxy groups, sulfated hydroxyalkyl polyethylene and / or hydroxyalkyl propylene glycol ethers, esters of tartaric acid or citric acid with ethoxylated or propoxylated fatty alcohols, optionally polyethoxylated alkyl and / or alkenyl ether phosphates, sulfated fatty acid alkylene glycol esters, as well as monoglyceride sulfates and monoglyceride ether sulfates. Preferred anionic surfactants are non-ethoxylated C8-C18 alkyl sulfates, soaps, C8-C2o alkyl ether sulfates and Cs-C2o ether carboxylic acids with 8 to 20 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and up to 12 ethylene oxide groups in the molecule.

[0028] Further preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized by containing at least one anionic surfactant selected from non-ethoxylated C8-C18 alkyl sulfates. Preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that the at least one anionic surfactant selected from non-ethoxylated C8-C18 alkyl sulfates is selected from n-octyl sulfate, 2-ethylhexyl sulfate, n-decyl sulfate, lauryl sulfate, n-tetradecyl sulfate, cetyl sulfate, stearyl sulfate, and mixtures of these sulfates, in particular mixtures designated as cocosulfate, wherein the at least one C8-C18 alkyl sulfate is present in salt form. The sodium salt of the at least one non-ethoxylated C8-C18 alkyl sulfate is particularly preferred. Another preferred salt is the magnesium salt of the at least one non-ethoxylated C8-C18 alkyl sulfate.However, the lithium, potassium and ammonium salt as well as the mono-, di- and trialkanol ammonium salt with 2 to 4 C atoms in the alkanol group of the at least one non-ethoxylated C8-C18 alkyl sulfate is also preferred according to the invention.

[0029] Further preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized by a content of at least one anionic surfactant selected from non-ethoxylated C8-C18 alkyl sulfates, in a total amount of 1-6 wt.%, preferably 2-5 wt.%, and particularly preferably 2.5-3.5 wt.%, in each case based on the weight of the composition according to the invention. It was surprisingly found that non-ethoxylated C8-C18 alkyl sulfates in a total amount of 1-6 wt.%, preferably 2-5 wt.%, and particularly preferably 2.5-3.5 wt.%, contribute significantly to the storage stability of the composition, especially in combination with the mandatory components b) and e). At the same time, other advantageous application properties, in particular the spreadability on the keratin fibers, the homogeneity of the color change result, and the washability of the application mixture from the keratin fibers, are surprisingly improved.Further preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain, as a further anionic surfactant in a total amount of 0.1 - 1 wt.%, based on the weight of the composition, at least one salt of a saturated or unsaturated C10-C22-alk(en)ylcarboxylic acid with a monovalent cation, which is preferably selected from the sodium, potassium, ammonium and monoethanolamine salts of myristic acid, cetyl acid, palmitoleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, petroselinic acid, arachidic acid, gadoleic acid, behenic acid, erucic acid and brassidic acid as well as their technical mixtures.

[0030] Further preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized by a content of at least one non-ionic surfactant in a total amount of 2 - 1.1 wt.%, preferably 3 - 9 wt.%, particularly preferably 5 - 8 wt.%, extraordinarily preferably 6 - 7.5 wt.%, in each case based on the weight of the composition according to the invention.

[0031] Further preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that the at least one nonionic surfactant is selected from ethoxylated 1-alkanols with 8 to 30 carbon atoms and 4 to 100 ethylene oxide units in the molecule, addition products of 6 to 12 ethylene oxide units and one to two propylene oxide units to divalent C10-16 alkane glycols, further selected from castor oil ethoxylated with 20 to 100 mol ethylene oxide per mol, sorbitan monoesters of linear saturated and unsaturated C12-Cso carboxylic acids, which may be hydroxylated, ethoxylated with 4 to 100 mol ethylene oxide per mol, further selected from glycerol mono- and diesters of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C12-Cso carboxylic acids, which may be hydroxylated, as well as mixtures of the aforementioned. non-ionic surfactants.Further preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that at least one nonionic surfactant is selected from ethoxylated 1-alkanols having 8 to 30 carbon atoms and 4 to 100 ethylene oxide units in the molecule, addition products of 6 to 12 ethylene oxide units and one to two propylene oxide units to divalent C10-16 alkane glycols, further selected from castor oil ethoxylated with 20 to 100 mol of ethylene oxide per mol, sorbitan monoesters of linear saturated and unsaturated C12-Cso carboxylic acids, which may be hydroxylated, which are ethoxylated with 4 to 100 mol of ethylene oxide per mol, further selected from glycerol mono- and diesters of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C12-Cso carboxylic acids, which may be hydroxylated, as well as mixtures of the aforementioned. non-ionic surfactants, in a total amount of 2 - 11 wt.%, preferably 3 - 9 wt.%, particularly preferably 5 - 8 wt.%, extremely preferably 6 - 7.5 wt.%.-%, each based on the weight of the agent according to the invention.

[0032] Particularly preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that the at least one glycerol mono- or -diester is selected from glycerol monostearate, glycerol distearate, glycerol monooleate, glycerol dioleate, glycerol monocaprinate, glycerol dicaprinate, glycerol monolaurate, glycerol dilaurate, glycerol monomyristate, glycerol dimyristate, glycerol monopaimitate, glycerol dipalitate, glycerol mono-12-hydroxystearate, glycerol di-12-hydroxystearate, glycerol monoolanolate, glycerol dilanolate, and mixtures of these substances.

[0033] Further particularly preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that the at least one glycerol mono- or diester, selected from glycerol monostearate, glycerol inoterarate, glycerol monooleate, glycerol dioleate, glycerol monocaprinate, glycerol dicaprinate, glycerol monolaurate, glycerol dilaurate, glycerol monomyristate, glycerol dimyristate, glycerol monopaimitate, glycerol dipalmitate, glycerol mono-12-hydroxystearate, glycerol di-12-hydroxystearate, glycerol monolanolate, glycerol dilanolate, and mixtures of these substances, is contained in a total amount of 2–11 wt.%, preferably 3–9 wt.%, particularly preferably 4–8 wt.%, and most preferably 5–6 wt.%, based on the weight of the composition according to the invention.

[0034] Further particularly preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain a mixture of glyceryl monostearate, glyceryl distearate, glyceryl monopalmitate, and glyceryl dipalmitate. Further particularly preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain a mixture of glyceryl monostearate, glyceryl distearate, glyceryl monopalmitate, and glyceryl dipalmitate in a total amount of 2–11% by weight, preferably 3–9% by weight, particularly preferably 4–8% by weight, and most preferably 5–6% by weight, in each case based on the weight of the composition according to the invention.

[0035] Further preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one nonionic surfactant selected from ethoxylated 1-alkanols with 8 to 30 carbon atoms and 4 to 100 ethylene oxide units in the molecule, adsorption products of 6 to 12 ethylene oxide units and one to two propylene oxide units to divalent C10-16 alkane glycols, further selected from castor oil ethoxylated with 20 to 100 mol ethylene oxide per mol, sorbitan monoesters of linear saturated and unsaturated C12-Cso carboxylic acids, which may be hydroxylated, ethoxylated with 4 to 100 mol ethylene oxide per mol, and mixtures of these compounds.

[0036] According to the invention, preferred nonionic surfactants are selected from ethoxylated Ca-Cso-alkanols with the formula R 1 O(CH2CH2O) n H, where R 1represents a linear or branched alkyl and / or alkenyl group with 8–30 carbon atoms and n, the average number of ethylene oxide units per molecule, for numbers from 4–100, preferably 6–30, particularly preferably 12 to 20 mol of ethylene oxide to 1 mol of alkanol, preferably selected from caprylic alcohol, 2-ethylhexyl alcohol, capric alcohol, lauryl alcohol, isotridecyl alcohol, tridecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmitoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, petroselinyl alcohol, arachiyl alcohol, gadoleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol and brassidyl alcohol, as well as from technical mixtures thereof. Adducts of 10 - 100 mol ethylene oxide to technical fatty alcohols with 12 - 18 carbon atoms, such as coconut, palm, palm kernel or tallow fatty alcohol, are also suitable.Besonders bevorzugt sind Ceteth-20, Steareth-20, Ceteareth-20, Trideceth-6, lsotrideceth-6, Undeceth-6, Myreth-6, Laureth-10, Laureth-12, Laureth-15, Laureth-20, Laureth-30, Myreth-10, Myreth-12, Myreth-15, Myreth-20, Myreth-30, Ceteth-10, Ceteth-12, Ceteth- 15, Ceteth-30, Steareth-10, Steareth-12, Steareth-15, Steareth-30, Oleth-10, Oleth-12, Oleth-15, Oleth-20, Oleth-30, Ceteareth-10, Ceteareth-15, Ceteareth-12, Ceteareth-15, Ceteareth-30 sowie Coceth-10, Coceth-12, Coceth-15, Coceth-20 und Coceth-30; außerordentlich bevorzugt sind Ceteth-20, Steareth-20, Ceteareth-20, Ceteth-1 O, Ceteth-12, Ceteth-15, Ceteth-30, Steareth-10, Steareth-12, Steareth-15, und Steareth-30 sowie Mischungen hiervon. Besonders bevorzugt sind Ceteareth-12, Ceteareth-20 und Ceteareth-50, insbesondere Ceteareth-20.

[0037] Particularly preferred compositions according to the invention contain at least one nonionic surfactant, which is at least one of the aforementioned ethoxylated surfactants, in a total amount of 0.1–3.0 wt.%, preferably 0.3–2.5 wt.%, and particularly preferably 0.5–1.5 wt.%, in each case based on the weight of the composition. These surfactants can also further improve storage stability.

[0038] Zwitterionic surfactants are surface-active compounds that contain at least one quaternary ammonium group and at least one carboxylate, sulfonate, or sulfate group in their molecule. Particularly suitable zwitterionic surfactants include the so-called betaines, such as N-alkyl-N,N-dimethylammonium glycinates (e.g., cocoalkyl-dimethylammonium glycinate), N-acyl-aminopropyl-N,N-dimethylammonium glycinates (e.g., cocoacylaminopropyl-dimethylammonium glycinate), and 2-alkyl-3-carboxymethyl-3-hydroxyethyl imidazolines, each with 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl or acyl group, as well as cocoacylaminoethylhydroxyethylcarboxymethyl glycinate. A preferred zwitterionic surfactant is the fatty acid amide derivative known under the INCI name cocamidopropyl betaine.

[0039] Amphoteric surfactants are defined as surface-active compounds that, in addition to a Ca-C24 alkyl or acyl group in the molecule, contain at least one free amino group and at least one -COOH or -SOsH group and are capable of forming internal salts. Examples of suitable amphoteric surfactants include N-alkylglycines, N-alkylpropionic acids, N-alkylaminobutyric acids, N-alkyliminodipropionic acids, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycines, N-alkyltaurines, N-alkylsarcosines, 2-alkylaminopropionic acids, and alkylaminoacetic acids, each with approximately 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the alkyl group. Particularly preferred amphoteric surfactants are N-cocoalkylaminopropionate, cocoacylaminoethylaminopropionate, and Ci2-Ci8-acylsarcosine.

[0040] A further mandatory component of the compositions according to the invention, and of preferred compositions according to the invention, is a content of at least one linear 1-alkanol with 8 to 40 carbon atoms in a total amount – based on the weight of the composition – of 5–15 wt.%, preferably 7–13 wt.%, and particularly preferably 8–10 wt.%. It was surprisingly found that linear 1-alkanols with 8 to 40 carbon atoms in a total amount of 5–15 wt.% contribute significantly to the storage stability of the composition, particularly in combination with the other mandatory components b) and c). At the same time, other advantageous application properties, in particular the homogeneity of the color change result and the viscosity stability of the application mixture from the keratin fibers, are surprisingly improved.Preferred agents according to the invention are characterized in that the at least one linear 1-alkanol with 8 to 40 carbon atoms is selected from octan-1-ol (octyl alcohol, caprylic alcohol), decan-1-ol (decyl alcohol, capric alcohol), dodecan-1-ol (dodecyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol), tetradecan-1-ol (tetradecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol), hexadecan-1-ol (hexadecyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmityl alcohol), octadecan-1-ol (octadecyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol), eicosan-1-ol (eicosyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol), docosan-1-ol (docosyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol), (13E)-docosen-1-ol (brassidyl alcohol), (13Z)-docos-13-en-1-ol (erucyl alcohol) and lanolin alcohol, as well as mixtures thereof.

[0041] Further compositions preferred according to the invention contain at least one polymer, selected from cationic and zwitterionic polymers, in a total amount of 0.05 - 3.0 wt.%, preferably 0.1 - 2.0 wt.%, particularly preferably 0.15 - 1.5 wt.%, and most preferably 0.15 to 1.0 wt.%, in each case based on the weight of the composition.

[0042] Surprisingly, it was found that the addition of a cationic and zwitterionic polymer in a total amount of 0.05 - 3.0 wt% results in a further improvement in emulsion stability, especially at higher storage temperatures.

[0043] Polymers are defined as macromolecules with a molecular weight of at least 1000 g / mol, preferably at least 2500 g / mol, and particularly preferably at least 5000 g / mol, consisting of identical, repeating organic units. Polymers are produced by polymerization of one type of monomer or by polymerization of different, structurally distinct types of monomers. If the polymer is produced by polymerization of one type of monomer, it is called a homopolymer. If structurally distinct types of monomers are used in the polymerization, the polymer is called a copolymer.

[0044] The maximum molecular weight of the polymer depends on the degree of polymerization (number of polymerized monomers) and is also determined by the polymerization method. For the purposes of the present invention, it is preferred if the molecular weight of the zwitterionic polymer is between 100,000 and 10 7g / mol, preferably 200,000 to 5 10 6 g / mol and particularly preferably 500,000 to 1 ■ 10 6 g / mol.

[0045] Subzwitterionic polymers are defined as polymers that contain both cationic and anionic groups in their macromolecule. The cationic groups in the macromolecule are quaternary ammonium groups. In these quaternary ammonium groups, a positively charged nitrogen atom carries four organic residues. The anionic groups are -COO groups or -SOs groups.

[0046] The cationic polymers can be homopolymers, copolymers, or polymers based on natural polymers, wherein the quaternary nitrogen groups are either contained within the polymer chain or, preferably, as a substituent on one or more of the monomers. The ammonium-containing monomers can be copolymerized with non-cationic monomers. Suitable cationic monomers are unsaturated, radically polymerizable compounds bearing at least one cationic group, in particular ammonium-substituted vinyl monomers such as trialkylmethacryloxyalkylammonium, trialkylacryloxyalkylammonium, dialkyldiallylammonium, and quaternary vinylammonium monomers with cyclic, cationic nitrogen-containing groups, such as pyridinium, imidazolium, or quaternary pyrrolidones, e.g., alkylvinylimidazolium, alkylvinylpyridinium, or alkylvinylpyrrolidone salts.The alkyl groups of these monomers are preferably lower alkyl groups such as C1 to CT alkyl groups, particularly preferably C1 to C3 alkyl groups.

[0047] The ammonium group-containing monomers can be copolymerized with non-cationic monomers. Suitable comonomers include, for example, acrylamide, methacrylamide; alkyl and dialkyl acrylamide, alkyl and dialkyl methacrylamide, alkyl acrylate, alkyl methacrylate, vinylcaprolactone, vinylcaprolactam, vinylpyrrolidone, vinyl esters (e.g., vinyl acetate), vinyl alcohol, propylene glycol, or ethylene glycol, wherein the alkyl groups of these monomers are preferably C1 to C7 alkyl groups, and particularly preferably C1 to C3 alkyl groups.

[0048] Preferred cationic and zwitterionic polymers, which have proven to be particularly effective components of the active ingredient combination according to the invention, are selected from the group of

[0049] - Copolymers of dimethyl-diallylammonium salts, in particular dimethyl-diallylammonium chloride (DADMAC) and acrylic acid (AA), e.g. polyquaternium-22,

[0050] - Copolymers of dimethyl diallylammonium salts and methacrylic acid,

[0051] - Copolymers of N,N,N-trimethyl-3-[(2-methyl-1-oxo-2-propen-1-yl)amino]-1-propanaminium salts and acrylic acid,

[0052] - Copolymers of N,N,N-Trimethyl-3-[(2-methyl-1-oxo-2-propen-1-yl)amino]-1-propanaminium salts and methacrylic acid,

[0053] - Copolymers of N,N,N-Trimethyl-2-[(2-methyl-1-oxo-2-propen-1-yl)amino]-1-ethanaminium salts and acrylic acid,

[0054] - Copolymers of N,N,N-Trimethyl-2-[(2-methyl-1-oxo-2-propen-1-yl)amino]-1-ethanaminium salts and methacrylic acid,

[0055] - Copolymers of N,N,N-trimethyl-3-[(2-methyl-1-oxo-2-propen-1-yl)amino]-1-propanaminium salts, acrylic acid and acrylamide, e.g. polyquaternium-53

[0056] - Copolymers of N,N,N-trimethyl-3-[(2-methyl-1-oxo-2-propen-1-yl)amino]-1-propanaminium salts, methacrylic acid and acrylamide,

[0057] - Copolymers of 1-ethenyl-3-methyl-1 H-imidazolium salts, 1-ethenyl-1 H-imidazole, 1-ethenyl-2-pyrrolidinone and methacrylic acid, e.g. Polyquaternium-86,

[0058] - Copolymers of 1-ethenyl-3-methyl-1 H-imidazolium salts, 1-ethenyl-1 H-imidazole, 1-ethenyl-2-pyrrolidinone and acrylic acid,

[0059] - Copolymers containing at least one anionic structural unit of formula (II) and at least one cationic structural unit of formula (III) wherein R2 and R3 independently represent a hydrogen atom or a methyl group, m represents an integer from 2 to 6, preferably 2 or 3, and the residues R4, R5 and R6 independently represent a Ci-Ce alkyl group, preferably independently represent a methyl group, an ethyl group or a propyl group, wherein a particularly preferred zwitterionic polymer of this type, which was prepared according to DE3929973A1, Production Example 1, is known under the INCI name Acrylamidopropyltrimonium chloride / Acrylate Copolymer;

[0060] - Polymeric dimethyldiallylammonium salts and their copolymers with esters and amides of acrylic acid and methacrylic acid. Particularly preferred polymers of this type are dimethyldiallylammonium chloride-acrylamide copolymers, especially those with the INCI name Polyquaternium-7. Polyquaternium-7 is available, for example, as the trade product Merquat® 550. Another preferred polymer of this type is the homopolymer poly(dimethyldiallylammonium chloride), especially the homopolymers with the INCI name Polyquaternium-6. Polyquaternium-6 is available, for example, as the trade product Merquat® 100. Further preferred polymers of this type are terpolymers of dimethyldiallylammonium chloride, acrylamide, and ammonium acrylate, especially those with the INCI name Polyquaternium-39. Polyquaternium-39 is available, for example, as the trade products Merquat® 3330 and Merquat® 3331.Other preferred polymers of this type are copolymers of dimethyldiallylammonium chloride and acrylic acid, particularly those with the INCI name Polyquaternium-22. Polyquaternium-22 is available, for example, as the commercial product Merquat®280.

[0061] - Homopolymers of the general formula -{CH2-[CR 1 COO-(CH2)mN + R 2 R 3 R 4 ]} n X , in the R 1 = -H or -CHs is R 2 , R 3 and R 4 The polymers are independently selected from C1-4 alkyl, C1-4 alkenyl, or C1-4 hydroxyalkyl groups, m = 1, 2, 3, or 4, n a natural number, and X a physiologically acceptable organic or inorganic anion. Within these polymers, those are preferred according to the invention for which at least one of the following conditions applies: R 1 stands for a methyl group, R 2 , R 3 and R 4The numbers μ and μ represent methyl groups, with m having a value of 2. Physiologically compatible counterions X- include, for example, halide ions, sulfate ions, phosphate ions, methosulfate ions, and organic ions such as lactate, citrate, tartrate, and acetate ions. Methosulfate and halide ions, especially chloride, are preferred.

[0062] Other preferably suitable cationic polymers derived from synthetic polymers are, for example, copolymers of A1) 0.1 to 50%, preferably 10 to 50% (based on the total number of monomers in the copolymer) monomers of formula (IV) The X stands for chloride, sulfate, methosulfate, and

[0063] A2) Monomers from the group consisting of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid and the alkali metal and ammonium salts of these acids, wherein the monomer A2 constitutes 50 to 99.9%, preferably 50 to 90% (based on the total number of monomers in the copolymer) of the copolymer; contained.

[0064] A highly preferred polymer, structured as described above, is commercially available under the INCI name Polyquaternium-74.

[0065] A particularly suitable homopolymer is the, optionally cross-linked, poly(methacryloyl-oxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride) with the INCI name Polyquaternium-37,

[0066] - as well as mixtures thereof.

[0067] Further particularly preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one cationic or zwitterionic polymer selected from acrylamidopropyltrimonium chloride / acrylate copolymer and copolymers of dimethyl-diallylammonium salts and acrylic acid, particularly preferably polyquaternium-22, as well as mixtures thereof, preferably in a total amount of 0.05 - 3.0 wt.%, preferably 0.1 - 2.0 wt.%, particularly preferably 0.15 - 1.5 wt.%, and most preferably 0.15 to 1.0 wt.%, in each case based on the weight of the composition. Further particularly preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that at least one cationic or zwitterionic polymer, selected from polyquaternium-22, is contained in a total amount of 0.05 - 3.0 wt.%, preferably 0.1 - 2.0 wt.%, particularly preferably 0.15 - 1.5 wt.%, and most preferably 0.15 to 1.0 wt.%, in each case based on the weight of the composition.

[0068] As already mentioned above, the composition according to the invention is the alkalizing component of a two-part oxidative dyeing or lightening agent, which is mixed with an aqueous hydrogen peroxide solution shortly before application and then applied directly to the hair. Such alkalizing components are frequently formulated as a cream, because the composition requires a certain consistency to remain on the keratin fibers to be treated during the reaction time of the color-changing oxidative treatment agent without dripping off. Linear 1-alkanols with 8 to 40 carbon atoms, so-called fatty alcohols, usually act as consistency enhancers; this is the obligatory component e) of the composition according to the invention. To ensure that the cream can be easily rinsed out of the keratin fibers after the reaction time, it also contains surfactants, mostly anionic surfactants.Alkyl mono- and oligoglycosides, so-called APGs, are also well-suited as surface-active surfactants, even though they are nonionic. The prevailing scientific consensus is that surfactants, especially anionic surfactants, have a higher potential for skin irritation than fatty alcohols. Therefore, to formulate a particularly skin- and scalp-friendly dye or lightening agent, a professional would typically keep the surfactant content relatively low compared to the amount of fatty alcohols.

[0069] Surprisingly, it was found that the storage stability of the agents (M1) according to the invention can be improved by the addition of at least one further fatty component with a melting point of more than 50°C, which differs from the surfactants d) and the linear 1-alkanols e) with 8 to 40 carbon atoms.

[0070] Further preferred compositions (M1) according to the invention are characterized in that they further contain at least one fatty component with a melting point of more than 50°C, which is different from the surfactants d) and the linear 1-alkanols e) with 8 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably in a total amount of 0.05 to 5 wt.%, particularly preferably 0.1 to 2.5 wt.%, and most preferably 0.5 to 1.0 wt.%, in each case based on the weight of the composition. Fatty components according to the invention are lipophilic organic substances that have a water solubility of at most 0.001 wt.% or less at 20°C. According to the invention, these fatty substances include fats and waxes. Linear saturated fatty alcohols are not considered fatty components with a melting point of more than 50°C according to the invention. Essential oils and perfume oils or fragrances are also not considered fatty substances within the meaning of the present invention.

[0071] Further preferred compositions (M1) according to the invention are characterized in that the at least one fatty component, which differs from the mandatory components d) and e), is selected from fatty components with a melting point in the range of more than 50°C, preferably from >50°C to 120°C, preferably selected from glycerol triesters of saturated linear C12-Cso carboxylic acids, which may be hydroxylated, in particular castor wax, Butyrospermum parkii (shea butter), mango butter, cocoa butter and esters of saturated, monohydric Ca-Cia alcohols with saturated Ci2-Cia monocarboxylic acids, in particular stearyl laurate, cetearyl stearate, cetyl palmitate and myristyl myristate, esters of a saturated, monohydric Oe-Ceo-alkanol and a saturated Ca-Cse monocarboxylic acid, in particular cetyl behenate, stearyl behenate C2o-C4o alkyl stearate, candelilla wax, carnauba wax and beeswax, paraffin wax, saturated n-alkanes with at least 20 carbon atoms,preferably with 22 to 60 carbon atoms, for example docosane, as well as mixtures of the aforementioned substances. Castor wax is particularly preferred, especially in an amount of 0.05 to 5 wt.%, particularly preferably 0.1 to 2.5 wt.%, and extremely preferably 0.5 to 1.0 wt.%, in each case based on the weight of the agent.

[0072] Further particularly preferred compositions (M1) according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one fat component with a melting point in the range of more than 50°C, preferably from >50°C to 120°C, which is different from the mandatory components d) and e), in a total amount of 0.05 - 5 wt.%, preferably 0.2 - 4 wt.%, particularly preferably 0.3 - 3 wt.% and extraordinarily preferably 0.5 to 1.2 wt.%, in each case based on the weight of the composition (M1).

[0073] Essential oils and perfume oils or fragrances are not considered fatty substances within the meaning of the present invention. According to the invention, essential oils are understood to be mixtures of volatile components produced by steam distillation from plant raw materials, such as citrus oils. Whenever the present application refers to a cosmetic oil, this always refers to a cosmetic oil that is neither a fragrance nor an essential oil, is liquid under normal conditions, and is immiscible with water.

[0074] The definition of an odorant as used in this application corresponds to the professionally accepted definition found in the RÖMPP Chemistry Lexicon, dated December 2007. According to this definition, an odorant is a chemical compound with an odor and / or taste that stimulates the receptors of the hair cells of the olfactory system (adequate stimulus). The necessary physical and chemical properties are a low molar mass of no more than 300 g / mol, a high vapor pressure, minimal water solubility and high lipid solubility, weak polarity, and the presence of at least one osmophoric group in the molecule.In order to distinguish volatile, low-molecular-weight substances, which are usually and also within the meaning of the present application not regarded and used as fragrances but primarily as solvents, such as ethanol, propanol, isopropanol and acetone, from fragrances according to the invention, fragrances according to the invention have a molar mass of 74 to 300 g / mol, contain at least one osmophoric group in the molecule and have an odor and / or taste, that is, they excite the receptors of the hair cells of the olfactory system.

[0075] Particularly preferred compositions (M1) according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one essential oil, perfume oil or fragrance, preferably in a total amount of 0.1 - 3 wt.%, particularly preferably 0.2 - 1 wt.%, extraordinarily preferably 0.5 - 0.8 wt.%, in each case based on the weight of the composition according to the invention.

[0076] According to the invention, preferred color-changing agents have a viscosity in the range of 5000 - 50000 mPas, preferably 5500 - 30000 mPas, particularly preferably 6000 - 25000 mPas, and most preferably 6500 - 20000 mPas, each measured at 20°C.

[0077] The ready-to-use mixture of the color-changing agent according to the invention, or preferably according to the invention, and the hydrogen peroxide solution preferably has a viscosity in the range of 5000-20000 mPas, more preferably 6000-18000 mPas, particularly preferably 6500-15000 mPas, and most preferably 7000-12000 mPas, in each case measured at 20°C. A Haake MVII rheometer can be used for measurement, for example at a shear rate of 7.2 revolutions per second.

[0078] Oxidative color change processes on keratin fibers typically occur in a neutral to alkaline environment. Therefore, the pH value of the agent according to the invention is in the range of 8.0 to 11.5, preferably in the range of 9.0 to 11.0, particularly preferably in the range of 9.5 to 10.7, and most preferably in the range of 9.8 to 10.5, in each case measured at a temperature of 20 °C.

[0079] As a further mandatory ingredient, the composition according to the invention therefore contains at least one alkalizing agent.

[0080] The alkalizing agents preferably suited for adjusting the pH value of the agents according to the invention are selected from ammonia, ammonium hydroxide, alkanolamines, alkali hydroxides, basic amino acids, alkali metal metasilicates, alkali metal disilicates, alkali phosphates and dialkali monohydrogen phosphates, as well as mixtures of these substances.

[0081] Preferred means for color change according to the invention are characterized in that they contain no ammonia and no ammonium hydroxide.

[0082] Particularly preferred alkalizing agents are selected from alkanolamines, alkali hydroxides, basic amino acids, alkali metal metasilicates, alkali metal disilicates, alkali phosphates, and dialkali monohydrogen phosphates, as well as mixtures of these substances. The alkali metal ions in the aforementioned alkalizing salts are preferably lithium, sodium, or potassium, particularly sodium or potassium.

[0083] The basic amino acids that can be used as alkalizing agents are preferably selected from the group consisting of L-arginine, D-arginine, D,L-arginine, L-lysine, D-lysine, D,L-lysine, and mixtures thereof. Particularly preferred basic amino acids are L-arginine, L-lysine, and mixtures thereof.

[0084] The alkali hydroxides that can be used as alkalizing agents are preferably selected from sodium hydroxide and potassium hydroxide, as well as mixtures thereof. Potassium hydroxide is particularly preferred according to the invention.

[0085] The alkanolamines that can be used as alkalizing agents preferably have 2 to 9 carbon atoms in the molecule and are particularly preferably selected from primary amines with a C2-C6 alkyl core structure bearing at least one hydroxyl group. Particularly preferred alkanolamines are selected from the group formed from 2-aminoethanol-1-ol (monoethanolamine), 3-aminopropan-1-ol, 4-aminobutan-1-ol, 5-aminopentan-1-ol, 1-aminopropan-2-ol, 1-aminobutan-2-ol, 1-aminopentan-2-ol, 1-aminopentan-3-ol, 1-aminopentan-4-ol, 3-amino-2-methylpropan-1-ol, 1-amino-2-methylpropan-2-ol, 3-aminopropan-1,2-diol, and 2-amino-2-methylpropan-1,3-diol, as well as mixtures thereof. According to the invention, particularly preferred alkanolamines are selected from the group consisting of 2-aminoethan-1-ol, 2-amino-2-methylpropan-1-ol and 2-amino-2-methyl-propan-1,3-diol; 2-aminoethan-1-ol is especially preferred.However, secondary amines, such as diisopropanolamine (1,1'-lminodipropan-2-ol), are also suitable alkalizing agents according to the invention. Particularly preferred agents according to the invention contain 2-aminoethanol-1-ol, potassium hydroxide, L-arginine, L-lysine, and mixtures thereof as alkalizing agents. Extremely preferred agents according to the invention for color modification contain a mixture of 2-aminoethanol-1-ol, potassium hydroxide, L-arginine, and L-lysine.

[0086] Preferred means for color change according to the invention are characterized in that at least one alkalizing agent is contained in a total amount of 0.5 - 10 wt.%, preferably 0.7 - 7 wt.%, particularly preferably 1.0 - 5 wt.%, and extraordinarily preferably 1.2 - 3 wt.%, in each case based on the weight of the color-changing agent.

[0087] The compositions according to the invention are intended for use in the oxidative color modification of keratin fibers, particularly human hair. In oxidative color modification processes, the composition according to the invention (M1), which is neutral or alkaline and preferably contains one or more oxidation dye precursors and optionally one or more direct dyes, is typically mixed with an aqueous hydrogen peroxide-containing composition (M2) having an acidic pH value immediately before application to the keratin fibers to form a ready-to-use color modification agent. This mixture is then applied to the keratin fibers immediately after mixing. The neutral to alkaline medium of the application mixture activates the hydrogen peroxide, thereby breaking down the melanin in the keratin fibers.If the composition (M1) according to the invention contains oxidation dye precursors, the hydrogen peroxide causes these to react with one another and form permanent dyes. To prevent this dye formation from starting during storage of the composition, the compositions according to the invention contain zero to less than 0.1 wt% peroxide compounds by weight.

[0088] In a preferred embodiment, the agent according to the invention for changing the color of keratin fibers contains at least one developer-type oxidation dye precursor and at least one coupler-type oxidation dye precursor.

[0089] Oxidation dye precursors can be divided into two categories based on their reaction behavior: developer components and coupler components.

[0090] Coupler components alone do not produce significant coloration during oxidative staining; they always require the presence of developer components. Developer components can react with themselves to form the actual dye.

[0091] The developer and coupler components are usually used in free form. However, for substances with amino groups, it may be preferable to use them in salt form, particularly as hydrochlorides, hydrobromides, or sulfates.

[0092] Preferred agents according to the invention contain the developer component toluene-2,5-diamine in the form of the sulfate salt toluene-2,5-diamine sulfate.

[0093] Further compositions preferred according to the invention contain the developer component N,N-bis-(2-hydroxyethyl)-p-phenylenediamine in the form of the sulfate salt N,N-bis-(2-hydroxyethyl)-p-phenylenediamine sulfate. This sulfate salt is most preferably present as a hydrate. A particularly preferred hydrated sulfate salt has the molecular formula C10H16N2O2 ■ H2SO4 ■ H2O and a molar mass of 312.34 g / mol.

[0094] Particularly preferred developer components are selected from at least one compound from the group consisting of p-phenylenediamine, p-toluenediamine, 2-(2-hydroxyethyl)-p-phenylenediamine, 2-(1,2-dihydroxyethyl)-p-phenylenediamine, N,N-bis-(2-hydroxyethyl)-p-phenylenediamine, 2-methoxymethyl-p-phenylenediamine, N-(4-amino-3-methylphenyl)-N-[3-(1 H-imidazol-1-yl)propyl]amine, N,N'-bis-(2-hydroxyethyl)-N,N'-bis-(4-aminophenyl)-1,3-diamino-propan-2-ol, bis-(2-hydroxy-5-aminophenyl)methane, 1,3-bis-(2,5-diaminophenoxy)propan-2-ol, N,N'-Bis-(4-amino-phenyl)-1,4-diazacycloheptane, 1,10-bis-(2,5-diaminophenyl)-1,4,7,10-tetraoxadecane, p-aminophenol, 4-amino-3-methylphenol, 4-amino-2-aminomethylphenol, 4-amino-2-(1 ,2-dihydroxyethyl)phenol and 4-amino-2-(diethylaminomethyl)phenol, 4,5-diamino-1-(2-hydroxyethyl)pyrazole, 2, 4,5,6-tetraaminopyrimidine, 4-hydroxy-2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2-hydroxy-4,5,6-triaminopyrimidine,the physiologically compatible salts of these compounds as well as mixtures of these developer components and developer component salts.

[0095] According to the invention, it may be preferred that no further developer components are included in addition to those listed above as preferred developer components.

[0096] Particularly preferred developer components are selected from 4,5-diamino-1-(2-hydroxyethyl)pyrazole, p-toluenediamine, 2-(2-hydroxyethyl)-p-phenylenediamine, 2-methoxymethyl-p-phenylenediamine, N-(4-amino-3-methylphenyl)-N-[3-(1 H-imidazol-1-yl)propyl]amine and mixtures of these compounds as well as their physiologically acceptable salts. According to the invention, it may be preferred that no further developer components are included in addition to those listed above.

[0097] Particularly preferred are 4,5-Diamino-1-(2-hydroxyethyl)pyrazole, p-toluenediamine, 2-(2-hydroxyethyl)-p-phenylenediamine, 2-methoxymethyl-p-phenylenediamine, and mixtures of these compounds, as well as their physiologically acceptable salts. According to the invention, it may be preferred that no further developer components are included in addition to those listed above.

[0098] Preferably, at least one developer component or its salt is included in a total amount of 0.01 to 5 wt.%, preferably 0.1 to 4 wt.%, particularly preferably 0.2 to 3.0 wt.%, and most preferably 0.5 to 2.0 wt.%, based on the weight of the agent (M1) according to the invention.

[0099] Preferably, at least one coupler component or its salt is included in a total amount of 0.001 to 4 wt.%, preferably 0.01 to 3 wt.%, particularly preferably 0.05 to 2 wt.%, and most preferably 0.1 to 1 wt.%, in each case based on the weight of the agent (M1) according to the invention.

[0100] Preferably, the total amount of oxidation dye precursors or their salts in the composition (M1) according to the invention is 0.011 to 9 wt.%, preferably 0.11 to 7 wt.%, particularly preferably 0.25 to 5 wt.%, and most preferably 0.6 to 3.0 wt.%, in each case based on the weight of the composition (M1).

[0101] Coupler components according to the invention allow at least one substitution of a chemical residue of the coupler by the oxidized form of the developer component. This results in the formation of a covalent bond between the coupler and developer components. Couplers are preferably cyclic compounds bearing at least two groups on the cycle, selected from (i) optionally substituted amino groups and / or (ii) hydroxyl groups. If the cyclic compound is a six-membered ring (preferably aromatic), the aforementioned groups are preferably located in the ortho or meta position relative to each other.

[0102] Preferably, at least one coupler component or its salt is included in a total amount of 0.01 to 5 wt.%, preferably 0.1 to 4 wt.%, particularly preferably 0.2 to 3.0 wt.%, and most preferably 0.5 to 2.0 wt.%, in each case based on the weight of the agent (M1) according to the invention.

[0103] Preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that the at least one oxidation dye precursor of the coupler type is selected from one of the following classes:

[0104] - 3-Aminophenol (m-Aminophenol) and / or its derivatives,

[0105] - 3-Aminoaniline (m-Diaminobenzene) and / or its derivatives,

[0106] - 2-Aminoaniline (1,2-Diaminobenzene; o-Diaminobenzene) and / or its derivatives,

[0107] - 2-Aminophenol (o-Aminophenol) and / or its derivatives,

[0108] - Naphthalene derivatives with at least one hydroxyl group,

[0109] - Di- or trihydroxybenzene and / or their derivatives,

[0110] - Pyridine derivatives,

[0111] - Pyrimidine derivatives,

[0112] - Monohydroxyindole derivatives and / or monoaminoindole derivatives,

[0113] - Monohydroxyindoline derivatives and / or monoaminoindoline derivatives,

[0114] - Pyrazolone derivatives, such as 1-phenyl-3-methylpyrazol-5-one,

[0115] - Morpholine derivatives, such as 6-hydroxybenzomorpholine or 6-aminobenzomorpholine,

[0116] - Quinoxaline derivatives, such as 6-methyl-1,2,3,4-tetrahydroquinoxaline,

[0117] Mixtures of two or more compounds from one or more of these classes are also preferred in this embodiment according to the invention.

[0118] Erfindungsgemäß besonders bevorzugte zusätzliche Kupplerkomponenten sind ausgewählt aus 3- Aminophenol, 5-Amino-2-methylphenol, 3-Amino-2-chlor-6-methylphenol, 2-Hydroxy-4-aminophen- oxyethanol, 5-Amino-4-chlor-2-methylphenol, 5-(2-Hydroxyethyl)amino-2-methylphenol, 2,4-Dichlor- 3-aminophenol, 2-Aminophenol, 3-Phenylendiamin, 2-(2,4-Diaminophenoxy)ethanol, 1 ,3-Bis(2,4- diaminophenoxy)propan, 1-beta-Hydroxyethyl-3,4-methylendioxyanilin, 1-Methoxy-2-amino-4-(2’- hydroxyethylamino)benzol (= 2-Amino-4-Hydroxyethylaminoanisol), 1 ,3-Bis (2,4-diaminophe- nyl)propan, 2, 6-Bis(2'-hydroxyethylamino)-1 -methylbenzol, 2-({3-[(2-Hydroxyethyl)amino]-4-meth- oxy-5-methylphenyl}amino)ethanol, 2-({3-[(2-Hydroxyethyl)amino]-2-methoxy-5-methylphenyl}- amino)ethanol, 2-({3-[(2-Hydroxyethyl)amino]-4,5-dimethylphenyl}amino)ethanol, 2-[3-Morpholin-4- ylphenyl)amino]ethanol, 3-Amino-4-(2-methoxyethoxy)-5-methylphenylamin, 1-Amino-3-bis-(2- hydroxyethyl)aminobenzol, Resorcin, 2-Methylresorcin,4-Chlorresorcinol, 1,2,4-Trihydroxybenzene, 2-Amino-3-hydroxypyridine, 3-Amino-2-methylamino-6-methoxypyridine, 2,6-Dihydroxy-3,4-dimethylpyridine, 3,5-Diamino-2,6-dimethoxypyridine, 1-Phenyl-3-methylpyrazol-5-one, 1-Naphthol, 1,5-Dihydroxynaphthalene, 2,7-Dihydroxynaphthalene, 1,7-Dihydroxynaphthalene, 1,8-Dihydroxynaphthalene, 4-Hydroxyindole, 6-Hydroxyindole, 7-Hydroxyindole, 4-Hydroxyindolin, 6-Hydroxyindolin, 7-Hydroxyindolin or mixtures of these compounds or the physiologically acceptable salts of the aforementioned compounds.

[0119] According to the invention, it may be preferred that no further coupler components are included in addition to those listed above as preferred coupler components.

[0120] The coupler group of dihydroxybenzenes and trihydroxybenzenes and their derivatives includes resorcinol, 2-methylresorcinol, and 4-chlororesorcinol. According to the invention, it may be preferred to omit resorcinol, 2-methylresorcinol, and 4-chlororesorcinol. In a particularly preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention contain no resorcinol. In a further preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention contain neither resorcinol nor 4-chlororesorcinol. In a further preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention contain neither resorcinol nor 2-methylresorcinol nor 4-chlororesorcinol.

[0121] Particularly preferred are 3-Aminophenol, Resorcinol, 2-Methylresorcinol, 5-Amino-2-methylphenol, 2-(2,4-Diaminophenoxy)ethanol, 1,3-Bis(2,4-diaminophenoxy)propane, 1-Methoxy-2-amino-4-(2'-hydroxyethylamino)benzene, 2-Amino-3-hydroxypyridine, 1-Naphthol and 1-beta-Hydroxyethyl-3,4-methylenedioxyaniline, as well as their physiologically acceptable salts and mixtures of the aforementioned coupler components.

[0122] According to the invention, it may be preferred that no further coupler components are included in addition to those listed above as preferred coupler components.

[0123] Particularly preferred are 3-Aminophenol, 2-Methylresorcinol, 5-Amino-2-methylphenol, 2-(2,4-Diaminophenoxy)ethanol, 1,3-Bis(2,4-diaminophenoxy)propane, 1-Methoxy-2-amino-4-(2'-hydroxyethylamino)benzene, 2-Amino-3-hydroxypyridine, 1-Naphthol and 1-beta-Hydroxyethyl-3,4-methylenedioxyaniline, as well as their physiologically acceptable salts and mixtures of the aforementioned coupler components.

[0124] According to the invention, it may be preferred that no further coupler components are included in addition to those listed above as preferred coupler components.

[0125] According to the invention, particularly preferred coupler components are selected from 1-beta-hydroxyethyl-3,4-methylenedioxyaniline, 3-aminophenol, 2-methylresorcinol, and 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine, their physiologically acceptable salts, and mixtures of the aforementioned components. It may be preferred according to the invention that, in addition to the particularly preferred coupler components listed above, no further coupler components are included.

[0126] A particularly preferred coupler component is 1-beta-hydroxyethyl-3,4-methylenedioxyaniline. According to the invention, the coupler component 1-beta-hydroxyethyl-3,4-methylenedioxyaniline is preferably present in salt form, particularly preferably as the hydrochloride (INCI name: Hydroxyethyl-3,4-methylenedioxyaniline HCl). The 1-beta-hydroxyethyl-3,4-methylenedioxyaniline hydrochloride has a molar mass of 217.65 g / mol.

[0127] Preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that, based on their weight, the total amount of 1-beta-hydroxyethyl-3,4-methylenedioxyaniline and - if present - its salt(s) is 0.001 to 5.0 wt.%, preferably 0.01 to 2.5 wt.%, particularly preferably 0.05 to 0.8 wt.%, extraordinarily preferably 0.1 to 0.5 wt.%, further extraordinarily preferably 0.2 to 0.4 wt.%.

[0128] In order to achieve a balanced and subtle nuance formation or to mattify undesirable residual color impressions caused by melanin degradation products, especially in the reddish or bluish range, it is preferred according to the invention if further color-giving components are included in the oxidative color-changing agent according to the invention.

[0129] In a further embodiment, the oxidative color-changing agents according to the invention can therefore additionally contain at least one direct dye. These are dyes that adhere directly to the hair and do not require an oxidative process to develop the color. Direct dyes are typically nitrophenylenediamines, nitroaminophenols, azo dyes, anthraquinones, or indophenols.

[0130] Direct dyes can be anionic, cationic, or nonionic. The direct dyes are preferably present in an amount of 0.0001–3 wt.%, more preferably 0.001–2 wt.%, based on the weight of the oxidative color-changing agent.

[0131] Preferred anionic direct-drawing dyes are the compounds known under the international names or trade names Acid Yellow 1, Yellow 10, Acid Yellow 23, Acid Yellow 36, Acid Orange 7, Acid Red 33, Acid Red 52, Acid Red 92, Pigment Red 57:1, Acid Blue 7, Acid Green 50, Acid Violet 43, Acid Black 1, Acid Black 52, Bromophenol Blue, and Tetrabromophenol Blue. The at least one anionic direct-drawing dye is preferably present in a total amount of 0.0001–3 wt.%, preferably 0.001–2 wt.%, and particularly preferably 0.05–1 wt.%, based on the weight of the alkalizing component.

[0132] Preferred cationic direct-drawing dyes are cationic triphenylmethane dyes, for example Basic Blue 7, Basic Blue 26, Basic Violet 2, and Basic Violet 14; aromatic systems substituted with a quaternary nitrogen group, such as Basic Yellow 57, Basic Red 76, Basic Blue 99, Basic Brown 16, and Basic Brown 17; cationic anthraquinone dyes, such as HC Blue 16 (Bluequat B); and direct-drawing dyes containing a heterocycle having at least one quaternary nitrogen atom, in particular Basic Yellow 87, Basic Orange 31, and Basic Red 51. Another preferred cationic direct-drawing dye is Basic Blue 124. The cationic direct-drawing dyes marketed under the trademark Arianor are also preferred cationic direct-drawing dyes according to the invention. Non-ionic direct dyes such as non-ionic nitro and quinone dyes and neutral azo dyes are particularly suitable.

[0133] Preferred non-ionic direct-drawing dyes are those known by their international names or...Handelsnamen HC Yellow 2, HC Yellow 4, HC Yellow 5, HC Yellow 6, HC Yellow 12, HC Orange 1 , Disperse Orange 3, HC Red 1 , HC Red 3, HC Red 10, HC Red 11 , HC Red 13, HC Red BN, HC Blue 2, HC Blue 11 , HC Blue 12, Disperse Blue 3, HC Violet 1 , Disperse Violet 1 , Disperse Violet 4, Disperse Black 9 bekannten Verbindungen, sowie 1 ,4-Diamino-2-nitrobenzol, 2- Amino-4-nitrophenol, 1 ,4-Bis-(2-hydroxyethyl)-amino-2-nitrobenzol, 3-Nitro-4-(2-hydroxyethyl)ami- nophenol, 2-(2-Hydroxyethyl)amino-4,6-dinitrophenol, 4-[(2-Hydroxyethyl)amino]-3-nitro-1 - methylbenzol, 1-Amino-4-(2-hydroxyethyl)amino-5-chlor-2-nitrobenzol, 4-Amino-3-nitrophenol, 1-(2'- Ureidoethyl)amino-4-nitrobenzol, 2-[(4-Amino-2-nitrophenyl)amino]-benzoesäure, 6-Nitro-1 ,2,3,4- tetrahydrochinoxalin, 2-Hydroxy-1 ,4-naphthochinon, Pikraminsäure und deren Salze, 2-Amino-6- chloro-4-nitrophenol, 4-Ethylamino-3-nitrobenzoesäure und 2-Chlor-6-ethylamino-4-nitrophenol.

[0134] In a further particularly preferred embodiment, an alkalizing component according to the invention is characterized in that it comprises one or more nonionic direct-drawing dyes from the group consisting of HC Yellow 2, HC Yellow 4, HC Yellow 5, HC Yellow 6, HC Yellow 12, HC Orange 1, Disperse Orange 3, HC Red 1, HC Red 3, HC Red 7, HC Red 10, HC Red 11, HC Red 13, HC Red BN, HC Blue 2, HC Blue 11, HC Blue 12, Disperse Blue 3, HC Violet 1, Disperse Violet 1, Disperse Violet 4, Disperse Black 9, 1,4-Diamino-2-nitrobenzene, 2-Amino-4-nitrophenol, 1,4-Bis-(2-hydroxyethyl)-amino-2-nitrobenzene, 3-Nitro-4-(2-hydroxyethyl)aminophenol, 2-(2-hydroxyethyl)amino-4,6-dinitrophenol, 4-[(2-hydroxyethyl)amino]-3-nitro-1-methylbenzene, 1-amino-4-(2-hydroxyethyl)amino-5-chloro-2-nitrobenzene, 4-amino-3-nitrophenol, 1-(2'-Ureidoethyl)amino-4-nitrobenzene, 2-[(4-amino-2-nitrophenyl)amino]benzoic acid, 4-[(3-hydroxypropyl)amino]-3-nitrophenol, 4-nitro-o-phenylenediamine, 6-nitro-1,2,3,4-tetrahydroquinoxaline, 2-hydroxy-1,4-naphthoquinone, picramic acid and its salts, 2-amino-6-chloro-4-nitrophenol, 4-ethylamino-3-nitrobenzoic acid and 2-chloro-6-ethylamino-4-nitrophenol, as well as mixtures thereof, preferably in a total amount of 0.0001–3 wt.%, preferably 0.001–2 wt.%, particularly preferably 0.05–1 wt.%, in each case based on the weight of the alkalizing component.

[0135] The alkalizing component is most preferably composed of 2-chloro-6-ethylamino-4-nitrophenol, most preferably in a total amount of 0.0001 - 3 wt.%, more preferably 0.001 - 2 wt.%, more preferably 0.05 - 1 wt.%, in each case based on the weight of the alkalizing component.

[0136] According to the invention, at least one cationic direct-drawing dye selected from Basic Blue 7, Basic Blue 26, Basic Violet 2, Basic Violet 14, Basic Yellow 57, Basic Red 76, Basic Blue 99, Basic Brown 16, Basic Brown 17, HC Blue 16 (Bluequat B), Basic Blue 124, Basic Yellow 87, Basic Orange 31 and Basic Red 51, as well as mixtures thereof, is particularly preferred.

[0137] The at least one cationic direct-drawing dye is preferably contained in a total amount of 0.0001 - 3 wt.%, preferably 0.001 - 2 wt.%, particularly preferably 0.05 - 1 wt.%, in each case based on the weight of the alkalizing component.

[0138] Further preferred compositions (M1) according to the invention are characterized in that they do not contain any polymer or copolymer with acrylate-, methacrylate- or vinyl-containing monomers and no polyurethane, i.e., that, based on their weight, 0.0 wt.% of the aforementioned (co-)polymers are contained in (M1).

[0139] Oxidative color-changing agents containing ammonia or ammonium hydroxide release ammonia during the color-changing process. Therefore, non-volatile alkalizing agents, i.e., all alkalizing agents other than ammonia or ammonium hydroxide, may be preferred according to the invention. Consequently, for some applications according to the invention, it may be preferable for the agents to not contain ammonia or ammonium hydroxide as alkalizing agents.

[0140] A further object of the present invention is a kit-of-parts which, packaged separately, comprises the following: i) at least one container (C1) containing an agent for the oxidative color change of keratinous fibers, in particular human hair, which is in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion and which, based on its weight, contains the following components: a) 45 to 85 wt.%, preferably 50 to 80 wt.%, particularly preferably 55 to 75 wt.%, most preferably 58 to 70 wt.% water, b) more than 5 wt.% to 20 wt.% coconut oil, c) additional oils in a total amount of zero to a maximum of 5 wt.%, d) at least one surfactant in a total amount of 4 to 15 wt.%, preferably 5 to 11 wt.%, e) at least one linear 1-alkanol having 8 to 40 carbon atoms in a total amount – based on the weight of the agent – ​​of 5 - 15 wt.%, preferably 7 - 13 wt.%, particularly preferably 8 - 10 wt.%.-%, f) at least one alkalizing agent, g) zero to less than 0.1 wt.% of peroxide compounds, h) optionally at least one developer-type oxidation dye precursor and at least one coupler-type oxidation dye precursor, wherein the agent has a pH value in the range of 8.0 to 11.5, preferably in the range of 9.0 to 11.0, particularly preferably in the range of 9.5 to 10.7, and most preferably 9.8 to 10.5, in each case measured at a temperature of 20 °C, and ii) at least one container (C2) containing an oxidizing agent preparation (M2) comprising 40–96 wt.%, preferably 65–90 wt.%, particularly preferably 70–80 wt.% water, furthermore hydrogen peroxide in a total amount of 0.5 to 23 wt.%, more preferably 2.5 to 21 wt.%, particularly preferably 4 to 20 wt.%, and most preferably 5 to 18 wt.% and, most preferably, 6 to 12 wt.%.-%, contains and has a pH value in the range of 2.0 to 6.5, preferably 2.5 - 5.5, particularly preferably 2.8 to 4.5, each measured at 20°C, wherein the wt.% values ​​refer to the weight of the oxidizing agent preparation (M2), optionally containing at least one oil and / or at least one surfactant.

[0141] In a preferred embodiment according to the invention, this kit additionally comprises a separately packaged oxidizing agent preparation (M3) containing i) at least one oxidizing agent selected from the inorganic salts of a peroxosulfuric acid, as well as mixtures of these salts, and j) 0 to 10 wt.%, preferably 0.1 to 8 wt.%, particularly preferably 0.5 to 5 wt.% water, wherein the wt.% values ​​refer in each case to the weight of the oxidizing agent preparation (M3), k) wherein (M3) optionally contains at least one oil and / or at least one surfactant.

[0142] Regarding further preferred embodiments of the kit according to the invention and preferred according to the invention, what has been said about the means for oxidative color change according to the invention and preferred according to the invention applies mutatis mutandis.

[0143] A further object of the present invention is the use of an agent according to the invention or a preferred agent according to the invention for the oxidative color change of keratin fibers, in particular human hair. With regard to further preferred embodiments of the use according to the invention, what has been said about the agent according to the invention and preferred agents according to the invention for the oxidative color change applies mutatis mutandis.

[0144] A further object of the present invention is a process for oxidative color change, comprising the following process steps: i) providing a cosmetic agent (M1) for oxidative color change of keratin fibers, in particular human hair, which is in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion and which, based on its weight, contains the following components: a) 45 to 85 wt.%, preferably 50 to 80 wt.%, particularly preferably 55 to 75 wt.%, most preferably 58 to 70 wt.% water, b) more than 5 wt.% to 20 wt.% coconut oil, c) additional oils in a total amount of zero to a maximum of 5 wt.%, d) at least one surfactant in a total amount of 4 to 15 wt.%, preferably 5 to 11 wt.%, e) at least one linear 1-alkanol having 8 to 40 carbon atoms in a total amount of 5 to 15 wt.%, preferably 7 - 13 wt%, particularly preferably 8-10 wt%, f) at least one alkalizing agent, g) zero to less than 0.1 wt.-% of peroxide compounds, h) optionally at least one developer-type oxidation dye precursor and at least one coupler-type oxidation dye precursor, wherein the agent has a pH value in the range of 8.0 to 11.5, preferably in the range of 9.0 to 11.0, particularly preferably in the range of 9.5 to 10.7, and extraordinarily preferably 9.8 to 10.5, in each case measured at a temperature of 20 °C, and ii) providing an oxidizing agent preparation (M2) containing 40–96 wt.%, preferably 65–90 wt.%, particularly preferably 70–80 wt.%, water, furthermore hydrogen peroxide in a total amount of 0.5 to 23 wt.%, more preferably 2.5 to 21 wt.%, particularly preferably 4 to 20 wt.%, most preferably 5 to 18 wt.%, and extraordinarily preferably 6 to 12 wt.%, and a pH value in the range of 2.0 to 6.5, preferably 2.5 to 5.5, particularly preferably 2.8 to 4.5, each measured at 20°C, wherein the weight- % values ​​refer to the weight of the oxidizing agent preparation (M2), optionally containing at least one surfactant and / or one oil, iii) mixing the cosmetic agent (M1) with the oxidizing agent preparation (M2), preferably in a weight ratio (M1):(M2) in the range of 1:0.8 to 1:2.5, preferably 1:1 to 1:2, immediately followed by iv) applying the mixture obtained in step iii) to the hair and leaving this mixture on the hair for a time of 1 to 60 minutes, preferably 20 to 45 minutes, at room temperature and / or at 30–60°C, preferably at 32–50°C, v) rinsing the hair with water and / or a cleansing composition, and vi) optionally applying a post-treatment agent to the hair and optionally rinsing, followed by drying.

[0145] For oxidative hair coloring processes, the inventive agent (M1), which is adjusted to an alkaline pH and optionally contains one or more oxidation dye precursors and, if necessary, one or more direct dyes, is typically mixed with an aqueous hydrogen peroxide-containing composition (M2) to form the ready-to-use coloring agent immediately before application to the hair and then applied directly to the hair. The inventive agent (M1) and the hydrogen peroxide-containing composition (M2) are usually formulated such that, at a mixing ratio of 1:1, based on parts by weight, the finished application mixture contains an initial concentration of hydrogen peroxide of 0.5–12 wt.%, preferably 2–10 wt.%, and particularly preferably 3–6 wt.% hydrogen peroxide (calculated as 100% H₂O₂), in each case based on the weight of the application mixture.However, it is equally possible to coordinate the agent (M1) according to the invention and the hydrogen peroxide-containing composition (M2) in such a way that the concentrations required in the ready-to-use oxidation color-changing agent (application mixture) are achieved by mixing ratios other than 1:1, for example by a weight-based mixing ratio of 1:2 or 1:3 or even 2:3.

[0146] According to the invention, preferred weight-related mixing ratios (M1):(M2) are in the range of 1 :0.8 to 1 :2.5, particularly preferably in the range of 1 :1 to 1 :2.

[0147] In the context of the present invention, the term "immediately thereafter" means a period of 1 second to 10 minutes, preferably 10 seconds to 5 minutes, and particularly preferably 15 seconds to 2 minutes. In the ready-to-use mixture of (M1) and (M2) and optionally (M3) (see below), the reaction of the hydrogen peroxide with the contained reaction components begins immediately. This reaction must take place on the keratin fibers, so the reactive, ready-to-use mixture must be applied to the keratin fibers immediately after its preparation.

[0148] According to the invention, the term "room temperature" refers to the temperature in the room in which a person usually applies a hair coloring or lightening agent, i.e., usually a bathroom or a hair salon, where the temperature is in the range of 10 - 29 °C.

[0149] Leaving the coloring or lightening application mixture in process step iv) in the color-changing processes according to the invention or preferred according to the invention can also take place at at least 30 °C, preferably at 30 - 60 °C, particularly preferably at 32 - 50 °C, if the hair is heated, for example, with a heat cap or with a heat radiant heater.

[0150] The oxidizing agent composition (M2) used in the color-changing kits and color-changing processes according to the invention and preferred according to the invention contains, based on its weight, 40 - 96 wt.%, preferably 65 - 90 wt.%, particularly preferably 70 - 80 wt.%, water.

[0151] The oxidizing agent preparation (M2) used in the color-changing kits and color-changing processes according to the invention and preferred according to the invention further contains, based on its weight, 0.5 to 23 wt.%, more preferably 2.5 to 21 wt.%, particularly preferably 4 to 20 wt.%, very preferably 5 to 18 wt.% and extremely preferably 6 to 12 wt.%, hydrogen peroxide.

[0152] To stabilize the hydrogen peroxide, the oxidizing agent preparation (M2) has a pH value in the range of 2.0 to 6.5, preferably 2.5 - 5.5, particularly preferably 2.8 to 4.5, each measured at 20°C.

[0153] Oxidative color change processes on keratin fibers typically occur in a neutral to alkaline environment; even a slightly acidic pH value yields acceptable color results. Therefore, the pH value of the agent (M1) according to the invention is in the range of 8.0 to 11.5, preferably in the range of 9.0 to 11.0, particularly preferably in the range of 9.5 to 10.7, and most preferably in the range of 9.8 to 10.5, in each case measured at a temperature of 20 °C. The ready-to-use color-changing agent obtained by mixing the agent (M1) according to the invention with the oxidizing agent preparation (M2) preferably has a pH value in the range of 6.5 - 11.5, more preferably 8.0 - 11.0, particularly preferably 8.5 - 10.8, extraordinarily preferably 9.0 - 10.6, and even more preferably 9.5 - 10.5, each measured at a temperature of 20 °C.

[0154] If a stronger lightening of the keratin fibers or the coloring of very dark, highly melanin-containing keratin fibers is to be achieved with the oxidative color-changing agents according to the invention, at least one further oxidizing agent is required in the application mixture, which is applied to the keratin fibers, in addition to hydrogen peroxide, to break down the melanin.

[0155] These additional oxidizing agents are often referred to as blond boosters. They are oxidizing agents that are solid under normal conditions. They are formulated as an anhydrous oxidative hair treatment (M3) containing at least one oxidizing agent that is solid under normal conditions.

[0156] Consequently, a further object of the present invention is a process for the oxidative color modification of keratin fibers, in particular for the lightening of keratin fibers, comprising the following process steps: i) providing a cosmetic agent (M1) for the oxidative color modification of keratin fibers, in particular human hair, which is in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion and which, based on its weight, contains the following components: a) 45 to 85 wt.%, preferably 50 to 80 wt.%, particularly preferably 55 to 75 wt.%, most preferably 58 to 70 wt.% water, b) more than 5 wt.% to 20 wt.% coconut oil, c) additional oils in a total amount of zero to a maximum of 5 wt.%, d) at least one surfactant in a total amount of 4 to 15 wt.%, preferably 5 to 11 wt.%, e) at least one linear 1-alkanol having 8 to 40 carbon atoms in a total quantity - based on the weight of the product - of 5 - 15 wt.-%, preferably 7-13 wt.%, particularly preferably 8-10 wt.%, f) at least one alkalizing agent, g) zero to less than 0.1 wt.% of peroxide compounds, h) optionally at least one developer-type oxidation dye precursor and at least one coupler-type oxidation dye precursor, wherein the agent has a pH value in the range of 8.0 to 11.5, preferably in the range of 9.0 to 11.0, particularly preferably in the range of 9.5 to 10.7, most preferably 9.8 to 10.5, in each case measured at a temperature of 20 °C, and ii) providing an oxidizing agent preparation (M2) containing 40-96 wt.%, preferably 65-90 wt.%, particularly preferably 70-80 wt.%, water, furthermore hydrogen peroxide in a total amount of 0.5 to 23 wt.%, more preferably 2.5 to 21 wt.%, particularly preferably 4 to 20 wt.%, very preferably 5 to 18 wt.% and extremely preferably 6 to 12 wt.%.-%, and having a pH value in the range of 2.0 to 6.5, preferably 2.5 to 5.5, particularly preferably 2.8 to 4.5, each measured at 20°C, wherein the wt. % values ​​refer to the weight of the oxidizing agent preparation (M2), optionally containing at least one surfactant and / or an oil, and iii) providing an oxidizing agent preparation (M3) different from (M2), comprising i) at least one oxidizing agent selected from the inorganic salts of a peroxosulfuric acid, as well as mixtures of these salts, and j) and 0 to 10 wt.%, preferably 0.1 to 8 wt.%, particularly preferably 0.5 to 5 wt.% water, wherein the wt.-% values ​​refer to the weight of the oxidizing agent preparation (M3), k) wherein (M3) optionally contains at least one oil and / or at least one surfactant, iv) mixing the cosmetic agent (M1) with the oxidizing agent preparations (M2) and (M3), wherein it is preferred that the aforementioned components (M1), (M2) and (M3) are composed with respect to the weight ratio (M1):(M2):(M3) of the three components to each other such that the weight ratio (M1):(M2) is in the range of 1 :0.8 to 1 :2.5, preferably 1 :1 to 1 :2, and (M3) is present in an amount of 5 - 25 wt.%, preferably 7 - 20 wt.%, particularly preferably 7.5 - 17 wt.%.-%, based on the weight of the total mixture of (M1), (M2) and (M3), is contained, immediately afterwards v) applying the mixture obtained in step iv) to the hair and leaving this mixture on the hair for a time of 1 to 60 minutes, preferably 20 to 45 minutes, at room temperature and / or at 30 - 60°C, preferably at 32 - 50°C, vi) rinsing the hair with water and / or a cleansing composition, and vii) optionally applying a post-treatment agent to the hair and optionally rinsing, followed by drying.

[0157] Preferably, the at least one oxidizing agent, solid under normal conditions, is selected from the inorganic salts of a peroxosulfuric acid, mixtures of these salts, sodium percarbonate, sodium percarbamide, sodium perborate, and mixtures of at least one salt of a peroxosulfuric acid and an oxidizing agent selected from sodium percarbonate, sodium percarbamide, sodium perborate, and mixtures thereof.

[0158] Peroxosulfuric acids include peroxodisulfuric acid and peroxomonosulfuric acid (Caro's acid).

[0159] According to the invention, the at least one inorganic salt of peroxosulfuric acid is preferably selected from ammonium peroxodisulfate, ammonium peroxomonosulfate, alkali metal peroxodisulfates, alkali metal peroxomonosulfates, and alkali metal hydrogen peroxomonosulfates. Potassium peroxodisulfate, sodium peroxodisulfate, ammonium peroxodisulfate, and potassium hydrogen peroxomonosulfate, as well as mixtures thereof, are particularly preferred. Furthermore, in the work carried out on the present invention, it has proven particularly preferred if the anhydrous oxidative hair treatment agent (M3) according to the invention contains at least two different peroxodisulfates. Preferred peroxodisulfate salts are potassium peroxodisulfate-ammonium peroxodisulfate mixtures, potassium peroxodisulfate-ammonium peroxodisulfate-sodium peroxodisulfate mixtures, and potassium peroxodisulfate-sodium peroxodisulfate mixtures.Particularly preferred are mixtures of potassium peroxodisulfate and ammonium peroxodisulfate, and especially preferred are mixtures of potassium peroxodisulfate and ammonium peroxodisulfate with an excess of potassium peroxodisulfate, free of sodium peroxodisulfate. According to the invention, particularly preferred mixtures of potassium peroxodisulfate (KPS) and ammonium peroxodisulfate (APS), free of sodium peroxodisulfate, are those with a KPS / APS weight ratio in the range of 4:1 to 2:1, preferably 3.5:1 to 2.5:1, and particularly preferably 3.2:1 to 2.8:1.

[0160] Preferably, anhydrous oxidative hair treatment agents (M3) used according to the invention contain at least one oxidizing agent selected from inorganic salts of peroxosulfuric acid and mixtures thereof, in a total amount of 5 - 85 wt.%, preferably 10 - 70 wt.%, particularly preferably 17 - 55 wt.%, and extraordinarily preferably 22 - 45 wt.%, in each case based on the weight of the oxidative hair treatment agent (M3).

[0161] The oxidative hair treatment agents (M3) used according to the invention are anhydrous, which in the sense of the present invention means that they contain, based on their weight, 0 to 12 wt. %, preferably 0.1 to 10 wt. %, and particularly preferably 0.5 to 9 wt. %, water.

[0162] This information refers to the free water content. The content of molecularly bound water or water of crystallization, which individual powder components may contain, is not taken into account. The water content can be determined, for example, by Karl Fischer titration in accordance with ISO 4317 (version 2011-12).

[0163] Alkalizing agent

[0164] For the melanin-degrading effect of the hydrogen peroxide and the bleaching effect on the keratin fiber, it is advantageous if the application mixture of agent (M1), hydrogen peroxide solution (M2) and persalt-containing oxidative hair treatment agent (M3) has a pH value in the range of 6.5 - 11.5, more preferably 8.0 - 11.0, particularly preferably 8.5 - 10.8, extraordinarily preferably 9.0 - 10.6, and even more preferably 9.5 - 10.5, each measured at a temperature of 20 °C.

[0165] To adjust the ready-to-use mixture of (M1), (M2), and (M3) to an alkaline pH, oxidative hair treatment agents (M3) preferably used according to the invention can contain, in addition to the at least one persalt that is solid under normal conditions, at least one alkalizing agent that is solid under normal conditions in such a total amount that the ready-to-use mixture of (M1), (M2), and (M3) has the desired alkaline pH. Oxidative hair treatment agents (M3) preferably used according to the invention are therefore characterized in that they contain at least one inorganic alkalizing agent that is solid at 20 °C and 1013 mbar. Oxidative hair treatment agents (M3) particularly preferably used according to the invention contain at least one inorganic alkalizing agent that is solid at 20 °C and 1013 mbar in a total amount of 4–70 wt.%, preferably 10–65 wt.%, particularly preferably 15–60 wt.%, and most preferably 20–55 wt.%.-%, each based on the weight of the oxidative hair treatment product (M3).

[0166] Further oxidative hair treatment agents (M3) preferably used according to the invention contain at least one inorganic alkalizing agent, solid at 20 °C and 1013 mbar, including in a total amount of 0.1 to 50 wt.%, preferably 4 to 30 wt.%, particularly preferably 15 - 25 wt.%, in each case based on the weight of the oxidative hair treatment agent, at least one sodium silicate or sodium metasilicate with a molar SiO2 / Na2O ratio of > 2, preferably 2.5-3.5.

[0167] In addition to the at least one sodium silicate or sodium metasilicate with a molar SiO2 / Na2O ratio of > 2, preferably 2.5-3.5, in a total amount of 0.1-50 wt.%, preferably 4-30 wt.%, particularly preferably 15-25 wt.%, each based on the weight of the oxidative hair treatment agent (M3), as an optional alkalizing agent, further inorganic alkalizing agents, particularly preferred according to the invention, which are solid at 20 °C and 1013 mbar, are selected from alkaline earth metal silicates, alkaline earth metal hydroxide carbonates, alkaline earth metal carbonates, alkaline earth metal metasilicates, alkali metal hydroxides, alkaline earth metal hydroxides, (earth) alkali metal phosphates and (earth) alkali metal hydrogen phosphates, as well as mixtures of these substances.According to the invention, particularly preferred inorganic alkalizing agents, solid at 20°C and 1013 mbar, are, in addition to the at least one obligatory sodium silicate or sodium metasilicate, each with a molar SiO2 / Na2O ratio of > 2, preferably 2.5 to 3.5, selected from magnesium hydroxide carbonates and mixtures of these alkalizing agents. According to the invention, preferred magnesium hydroxide carbonates are those with the formula MgCOs ■ Mg(OH)2 ■ 2 H2O and those with the formula MgCOs ■ Mg(OH)2. Magnesium hydroxide carbonate with the formula MgCOs ■ Mg(OH)2 is particularly preferred according to the invention.

[0168] According to the invention, the oxidative hair treatment agents (M3) used particularly preferably contain, based on their total weight, 0.1 to 50 wt.%, preferably 4 to 30 wt.%, particularly preferably 15 to 25 wt.%, sodium silicates with a molar SiO2 / Na2O ratio of > 2, preferably of 2.5 to 3.5, and 2 to 40 wt.%, preferably 5 to 35 wt.%, particularly preferably 10 to 32 wt.% magnesium hydroxide carbonate as inorganic alkalizing agents, solid at 20 °C and 1013 mbar.

[0169] Surprisingly, it was further found that an application mixture with further optimized storage stability is obtained when the agent (M1) according to the invention or preferred according to the invention is mixed with an oxidizing agent preparation (M2) containing at least one cationic surfactant, preferably in a total amount of 0.05 - 3 wt.%, particularly preferably of 0.1 - 1.5 wt.%, and most preferably of 0.5 - 0.9 wt.%, in each case based on the weight of the oxidizing agent preparation (M2).

[0170] In a further preferred embodiment of the invention, the oxidizing agent preparation (M2) used according to the invention contains at least one cation surfactant, preferably in a total amount of 0.05 - 3 wt.%, particularly preferably of 0.1 - 1.5 wt.%, and most preferably of 0.5 - 0.9 wt.%, in each case based on the weight of the oxidizing agent preparation (M2).

[0171] Cationic surfactants are surfactants, i.e., surface-active compounds, with one or more positive charges. Cationic surfactants contain exclusively positive charges. These surfactants typically consist of a hydrophobic part and a hydrophilic head group. The hydrophobic part usually comprises a hydrocarbon backbone (e.g., consisting of one or two linear or branched alkyl groups), and the positive charge(s) are located in the hydrophilic head group. Cationic surfactants adsorb onto interfaces and, in aqueous solution above the critical micelle concentration, aggregate to form positively charged micelles.

[0172] According to the invention, cationic surfactants of the type of alkylamidoamines, quaternary ammonium compounds and esterquats are preferred.

[0173] Alkylamidoamines have the general structural formula R 1 -CO-NH-(CH2)n-NR 2 R3 on, where R 1 represents a long-chain, mostly linear alkyl group derived from natural or synthetic fatty acids, preferably a linear C13-C23 alkyl group, which is saturated or unsaturated. The index n is preferably a number from 2 to 5, more preferably 3 or 4. The R groups 2 and R 3 preferably represent a methyl, ethyl or n-propyl group independently of one another, R is particularly preferred 2 and R 3Each contains a methyl group. Alkylamidoamines are typically produced by the amidation of natural or synthetic fatty acids and fatty acid fractions with short-chain dialkylaminoamines. In acidic media, the alkylamidoamines exist permanently protonated, i.e., cationically. According to the invention, particularly preferred compounds from this group of substances are stearamidopropyldimethylamine, behenamidopropyldimethylamine, and palmitamidopropyldimethylamine, as well as mixtures thereof, especially mixtures of stearamidopropyldimethylamine and behenamidopropyldimethylamine.

[0174] Preferred quaternary ammonium compounds are ammonium halides, such as alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides, dialkyldimethylammonium chlorides, trialkylmethylammonium chlorides, and the imidazolium compounds known under the INCI names Quaternium-27 and Quaternium-83. Further preferred quaternary ammonium compounds are tetraalkylammonium salts, such as, in particular, Quaternium-52, known under the INCI name, a poly(oxy-1,2-ethanediyl), ((octadecylnitrilio)tri-2,1-ethanediyl)tris(hydroxy)phosphate (1:1) salt having the general structural formula (III), wherein x + y + z = 10.

[0175] The long alkyl groups of the surfactants mentioned above preferably have 10 to 22, and particularly preferably 12 to 18, carbon atoms. Behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, stearyltrimethylammonium chloride, and cetyltrimethylammonium chloride are particularly preferred, with stearyltrimethylammonium chloride being especially preferred. Other suitable cationic surfactants according to the invention are quaternized protein hydrolysates. Esterquats are substances that contain at least one ester group and at least one quaternary ammonium group as a structural element. Preferred esterquats are quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with triethanolamine, quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with diethanolalkylamines, and quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with 1,2-dihydroxypropyldialkylamines. Such products are marketed under the trademarks Stepantex, Dehyquart, and Armocare.

[0176] With regard to optimal application properties and optimal color results, C10-C22 alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides have proven to be particularly suitable. Particularly preferred oxidizing agent preparations (M2) used according to the invention are therefore characterized in that they contain at least one cationic surfactant in a total amount of 0.05–3 wt.%, particularly preferably 0.1–1.5 wt.%, and most preferably 0.3–0.9 wt.%, in each case based on the weight of the oxidizing agent preparation (M2), wherein preferably at least one surfactant selected from C10-C22 alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides, in particular selected from behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, stearyltrimethylammonium chloride, and cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, as well as mixtures of these surfactants, is included. Most preferred oxidizing agent preparations (M2) used according to the invention contain stearyltrimethylammonium chloride in a total amount of 0.05–3 wt.%.-%, particularly preferably 0.1 - 1.5 wt.%, extraordinarily preferably 0.3 - 0.9 wt. -%, in each case based on the weight of the oxidizing agent preparation (M2).

[0177] Another packaging unit preferred according to the invention (kit-of-parts) is characterized in that the oxidizing agent preparation (M2) contains at least one cationic surfactant, preferably in a total amount of 0.05 - 3 wt.%, particularly preferably of 0.1 - 1.5 wt.%, and most preferably of 0.5 - 0.9 wt.%, in each case based on the weight of the oxidizing agent preparation (M2).

[0178] Another preferred packaging unit (kit-of-parts) according to the invention is characterized in that the oxidizing agent preparation (M2) contains at least one cationic surfactant, preferably selected from at least one alkylamidoamine, in a total amount of 0.05–3 wt.%, particularly preferably 0.1–1.5 wt.%, and most preferably 0.5–0.9 wt.%, in each case based on the weight of the oxidizing agent preparation (M2). A preferred method according to the invention for oxidative hair coloring is characterized in that the oxidizing agent preparation (M2) contains at least one cationic surfactant, preferably in a total amount of 0.05–3 wt.%, particularly preferably 0.1–1.5 wt.%, and most preferably 0.5–0.9 wt.%, in each case based on the weight of the oxidizing agent preparation (M2).

[0179] Another preferred method according to the invention for the oxidative color change of keratinous fibers is characterized in that the oxidizing agent preparation (M2) contains at least one cationic surfactant, preferably selected from at least one alkylamidoamine, in a total amount of 0.05 - 3 wt.%, particularly preferably 0.1 - 1.5 wt.%, and most preferably 0.5 - 0.9 wt.%, in each case based on the weight of the oxidizing agent preparation (M2).

[0180] Surprisingly, it was further found that an application mixture with even better storage stability is obtained when the agent (M1) according to the invention, or a preferred agent according to the invention, is mixed with an oxidizing agent preparation (M2) containing xanthan gum, preferably 1 to 5 wt.%, particularly preferably 1.5 to 4 wt.%, and most preferably 2 to 3 wt.% xanthan gum, in each case based on the weight of the oxidizing agent preparation (M2). Xanthan gum enhances storage stability. Furthermore, the consistency of the application mixture achieved with xanthan gum leads to optimal application properties, for example, for brush application.The application mixtures thus obtained, in particular at weight-related mixing ratios (M1):(M2) in the range of 1 :0.8 to 1 :2.5, especially preferably in the range of 1 :1 to 1 :2, preferably have a viscosity in the range of 3500 - 8000 mPas, preferably 4000 - 7000 mPas, particularly preferably 4500 - 6500 mPas, and most preferably 5000 - 6000 mPas, each measured at 20°C with a rheometer model MVII of the company Haake at a shear rate of 7.2 revolutions per second.

[0181] Preferred oxidizing agent preparations (M2) used according to the invention contain at least one surfactant or emulsifier, but only in minor quantities.

[0182] In a further preferred embodiment of the invention, the oxidizing agent preparations (M2) used according to the invention are characterized in that their surfactant and emulsifier content is zero to a maximum of 3.0 wt.%, preferably 0.5 to 2.0 wt.%, and particularly preferably 1.0 to 1.5 wt.%, in each case based on the weight of the oxidizing agent preparation (M2). Higher surfactant content could potentially impair the good storage stability of the compositions according to the invention in the ready-to-use composition.

[0183] The component e) which is mandatory for (M1) is not considered a surfactant or emulsifier within the meaning of the present invention.

[0184] Preferred surfactants and emulsifiers in (M2) are selected from anionic, cationic, zwitterionic, amphoteric, and nonionic surfactants and emulsifiers, as well as mixtures thereof. Further oxidizing agent preparations (M2) preferably used according to the invention contain at least one zwitterionic and / or at least one amphoteric surfactant and / or at least one anionic surfactant.

[0185] Zwitterionic surfactants are surface-active compounds that contain at least one quaternary ammonium group and at least one carboxylate, sulfonate, or sulfate group in their molecule. Particularly suitable zwitterionic surfactants include the so-called betaines, such as N-alkyl-N,N-dimethylammonium glycinates (e.g., cocoalkyl-dimethylammonium glycinate), N-acyl-aminopropyl-N,N-dimethylammonium glycinates (e.g., cocoacylaminopropyl-dimethylammonium glycinate), and 2-alkyl-3-carboxymethyl-3-hydroxyethyl imidazolines, each with 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl or acyl group, as well as cocoacylaminoethylhydroxyethylcarboxymethyl glycinate. A preferred zwitterionic surfactant is the fatty acid amide derivative known under the INCI name cocamidopropyl betaine.

[0186] Amphoteric surfactants are defined as surface-active compounds that, in addition to a Ca-C24 alkyl or acyl group in the molecule, contain at least one free amino group and at least one -COOH or -SOsH group and are capable of forming internal salts. Examples of suitable amphoteric surfactants include N-alkylglycines, N-alkylpropionic acids, N-alkylaminobutyric acids, N-alkyliminodipropionic acids, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycines, N-alkyltaurines, N-alkylsarcosines, 2-alkylaminopropionic acids, and alkylaminoacetic acids, each with approximately 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the alkyl group. Particularly preferred amphoteric surfactants are N-cocoalkylaminopropionate, cocoacylaminoethylaminopropionate, and Ci2-Ci8-acylsarcosine.

[0187] Suitable anionic surfactants include all anionic surfactants suitable for use on the human body, which possess a water-soluble anionic group, for example a carboxylate, sulfate, sulfonate, or phosphate group, and a lipophilic alkyl group with approximately 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 24 carbon atoms, in the molecule. Additionally, the molecule may contain glycol or polyglycol ether groups, ester, ether, and amide groups, as well as hydroxyl groups. Examples of suitable anionic surfactants are, in the form of sodium, potassium, and ammonium salts, as well as mono-, di-, and trialkanolammonium salts with 2 to 4 carbon atoms in the alkanol group; linear and branched fatty acids with 8 to 30 carbon atoms (soaps); polyethoxylated ether carboxylic acids; acyl sarcosides; acyl taurides; acyl isethionates; sulfosuccinic acid mono- and dialkyl esters and sulfosuccinic acid monoalkyl polyoxyethyl esters with 1 to 6 ethylene oxide groups; and linear alkanesulfonates.linear alpha-olefin sulfonates, sulfonates of unsaturated fatty acids with up to 6 double bonds, alpha-sulfofaticial methyl esters of fatty acids, Cs-C2o alkyl sulfates and C8-C2o alkyl ether sulfates with up to 15 oxyethyl groups, mixtures of surfactant hydroxysulfonates, sulfated hydroxyalkyl polyethylene and / or hydroxyalkylene propylene glycol ethers, esters of tartaric acid or citric acid with ethoxylated or propoxylated fatty alcohols, optionally polyethoxylated alkyl and / or alkenyl ether phosphates, sulfated fatty acid alkylene glycol esters, as well as monoglyceride sulfates and monoglyceride ether sulfates. Preferred anionic surfactants are soaps, C8-C2o alkyl sulfates, C8-C2o alkyl ether sulfates, and C8-C2o ether carboxylic acids with 8 to 20 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and up to 12 ethylene oxide groups in the molecule. Sodium cetearyl sulfate is particularly preferred.

[0188] Surprisingly, it was found that an application mixture with a viscosity suitable for application and drip-free retention on the hair is obtained by mixing the agent (M1) according to the invention or a preferred agent according to the invention with an oxidizing agent preparation (M2) containing at least one oil, preferably at least one oil in a total amount of 0.5–40 wt.%, more preferably 1–25 wt.%, more preferably 3–20 wt.%, and most preferably 5–17 wt.%, in each case based on the weight of the oxidizing agent preparation (M2). The resulting consistency of the application mixture leads to optimal application properties, for example, for brush application.The application mixtures thus obtained, particularly at weight-based mixing ratios (M1):(M2) in the range of 1:0.8 to 1:2.5, especially preferably in the range of 1:1 to 1:2, preferably have a viscosity in the range of 3500–8000 mPas, more preferably 4000–7000 mPas, more preferably 4500–6500 mPas, and most preferably 5000–6000 mPas, each measured at 20°C with a Haake Model MVII rheometer at a shear rate of 7.2 revolutions per second. Further oxidizing agent preparations (M2) preferably used according to the invention contain at least one oil.According to the invention, the at least one oil is preferably selected from mineral oils, branched fatty alcohols with 8 to 30 carbon atoms, dialkyl ethers with 6 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl groups, esters of linear or branched saturated or unsaturated fatty alcohols with 2 to 30 carbon atoms with linear or branched saturated or unsaturated fatty acids with 2 to 30 carbon atoms, which may be hydroxylated, as well as mixtures of the aforementioned substances. Mineral oil is particularly preferred.

[0189] According to the invention, preferred kits, uses and methods are characterized in that the composition (M2) used for their manufacture contains at least one oil in a total amount of 0.5 - 40 wt.%, preferably 1 - 25 wt.%, particularly preferably 3 - 20 wt.%, and extraordinarily preferably 5 - 17 wt.%.

[0190] Further kits, uses and methods preferred according to the invention are characterized in that the composition (M2) used for their manufacture contains - based on its weight - at least 0.5-40 wt.%, preferably 1-25 wt.%, particularly preferably 3-20 wt.%, and extraordinarily preferably 5-17 wt.%, mineral oil.

[0191] The following examples are intended to illustrate the subject matter of the invention without limiting it.

[0192] The following dye or composition (M1) was prepared (oil-in-water emulsion, all quantities in wt.%), which represents the alkalizing component (M1) of a two-part oxidative dye:

[0193] Dyeing components in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion (M1)

[0194] Both dye components had a pH value in the range of 9.9 to 10.5, measured at 20°C.

[0195] The following oxidation compositions (M2) were prepared (all amounts in wt.%):

[0196] Developer emulsion (M2-1) (6 wt% H2O2) Developer emulsion (M2-2) (9 wt% H2O2)

[0197] Developer emulsion (M2-3) (12 wt% H2O2)

[0198] Developer emulsion (M2-4) (6 wt% H2O2) Developer emulsion (M2-5) (3 wt% H2O2)

[0199] Developer emulsion (M2-6) (11.5 wt% H2O2)

[0200] Coloration

[0201] To produce ready-to-use oxidative dyes, the agents (M1-1) or (M1-2) according to the invention were mixed in a weight ratio of 1 :1 with one of the oxidizing agent preparations (M2-1), (M2-2), (M2-3), (M2-4), (M2-5) or (M2-6).

[0202] The oxidative dyes produced in this way were applied in defined quantities (4 g of oxidative dye per 1 g of yak hair) to strands of yak hair laid flat (12 strands per oxidative dye) and left on the hair strands for 30 minutes at 32 °C. The remaining dye was then rinsed out of the hair strands with lukewarm water for 2 minutes, the strands were first dried with a towel, and then blow-dried.

[0203] Each strand received intensely colored highlights.

[0204] When the aforementioned dyeing agents according to the invention were applied to the scalp hair of test subjects, the agents could be easily and homogeneously prepared by mixing components (M1) and (M2) by hand, then effortlessly applied to the hair to be dyed, and remained there for the 30-minute processing time without dripping. Here, too, intense and homogeneous colorations were obtained along the entire length of the keratin fibers.

[0205] Storage stability

[0206] The O / W emulsions (M1-1) and (M1-2) according to the invention were stable even after 2 months of storage at 50°C and showed no phase separation. Inventive 3-component bleaching agent

[0207] First, the following alkalizing component was prepared, which was mixed with a bleaching powder and a hydrogen peroxide preparation to form a ready-to-use bleaching agent: alkalizing component according to the invention (all quantities in wt.%)

[0208] The alkalizing components M1-3 and M1-4 according to the invention had a pH value of 10.2, each measured at 20°C. Bleaching powder (all quantities in wt.%)

[0209] For test series 1,

[0210] 1) the alkalizing component M1-3 according to the invention with the developer emulsion (M2-6) and the bleaching powder BP-1 in a weight ratio of 60:60:10 to form a ready-to-use bleaching agent according to the invention and

[0211] 2) the alkalizing component M1-4 according to the invention is mixed with the developer emulsion (M2-6) and the bleaching powder BP-1 in a weight ratio of 60:60:10 to form a ready-to-use bleaching agent according to the invention, applied to dark hair to be lightened and washed off with water and shampoo after a dwell time of 40 minutes.

[0212] For test series 2,

[0213] 3) the alkalizing component M1-3 according to the invention with the developer emulsion (M2-6) and the bleaching powder BP-2 in a weight ratio of 50:50:20 to form a ready-to-use bleaching agent according to the invention and

[0214] 4) the alkalizing component M1-4 according to the invention is mixed with the developer emulsion (M2-6) and the bleaching powder BP-2 in a weight ratio of 50:50:20 to form a ready-to-use bleaching agent according to the invention, applied to dark hair to be lightened and washed off with water and shampoo after a dwell time of 40 minutes.

[0215] In all cases, homogeneously bleached highlights were achieved.

[0216] Storage stability

[0217] The O / W emulsions (M1-3) and (M1-4) according to the invention were stable even after 2 months of storage at 50°C and showed no phase separation. Test for reducing the salt load in the alkalizing component (all quantities in wt.%)

[0218] The alkalizing components M1-V and M1-E according to the invention had a pH value of 10.08, each measured at 20°C.

[0219] To produce a ready-to-use oxidative dye, the agents (M1-V) and (M1-E) according to the invention were each mixed with the developer emulsion (M2-2) in a weight ratio of 1:1.

[0220] The oxidative dyes prepared in this manner were applied in defined quantities (4 g of oxidative dye per 1 g of yak hair) to strands of yak hair laid flat and left on the strands for 45 minutes at 32 °C. The remaining dyes were then rinsed from the strands with lukewarm water for 2 minutes, the strands were first towel-dried, and then blow-dried. The dyed hairs were assessed by trained personnel. The results are summarized in the table below:

[0221] Assessment of the color variations

[0222] The hair strands were dyed a warm dark blonde tone using both ready-to-use dyes (M1-V)+(Ox) and (M1-E)+(Ox). The resulting color (warm dark blonde) and the achieved color intensity were the same. The desired color intensity was achieved with the dye combination of product (M1-E) using a lower total amount of oxidation dye precursors compared to (M1-V).

[0223] The total amount of oxidation dyes used in salt form could also be reduced by more than 8% in the dyeing agent (M1-E) according to the invention. This reduction in the amount of salt had a positive effect on the emulsion stability of the coloring alkalizing component according to the invention.

Claims

1. Patent claims 1. A composition for the oxidative color modification of keratinous fibers, in particular human hair, which is in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion and which contains, based on its weight, the following components: a) 45 to 85 wt.%, preferably 50 to 80 wt.%, particularly preferably 55 to 75 wt.%, extremely preferably 58 to 70 wt.% water, b) more than 5 wt.% to 20 wt.% coconut oil, c) additional oils in a total amount of zero to a maximum of 5 wt.%, d) at least one surfactant in a total amount of 4 to 15 wt.%, preferably 5 to 11 wt.%, e) at least one linear 1-alkanol with 8 to 40 carbon atoms in a total amount – based on the weight of the composition – of 5 to 15 wt.%, preferably 7 to 13 wt.%, particularly preferably 8 to 10 wt.%, f) at least one alkalizing agent, g) zero to less than 0.1 wt.-% of peroxide compounds, h) optionally at least one developer-type oxidation dye precursor and at least one coupler-type oxidation dye precursor, wherein the composition has a pH value in the range of 8.0 to 11.5, preferably in the range of 9.0 to 11.0, particularly preferably in the range of 9.5 to 10.7, most preferably 9.8 to 10.5, each measured at a temperature of 20 °C.

2. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the at least one surfactant is selected from nonionic, anionic, cationic, amphoteric and zwitterionic surfactants and mixtures thereof, preferably selected from nonionic and anionic surfactants and mixtures thereof.

3. Composition according to claim 2, characterized in that the at least one anionic surfactant is selected from n-octyl sulfate, 2-ethylhexyl sulfate, n-decyl sulfate, lauryl sulfate, n-tetradecyl sulfate, cetyl sulfate, stearyl sulfate and mixtures of these sulfates, in particular mixtures designated as cocosulfate, wherein the at least one C8-C18 alkyl sulfate is in salt form.

4. Composition according to claim 2, characterized in that the at least one nonionic surfactant is selected from ethoxylated 1-alkanols having 8 to 30 carbon atoms and 4 to 100 ethylene oxide units in the molecule, addition products of 6 to 12 ethylene oxide units and one to two propylene oxide units to divalent C10-16 alkane glycols, further selected from castor oil ethoxylated with 20 to 100 mol ethylene oxide per mol, sorbitan monoesters of linear saturated and unsaturated monocarbonates ethoxylated with 4 to 100 mol ethylene oxide per mol tigten C12-Cso-carboxylic acids, which may be hydroxylated, further selected from glycerol mono- and diesters of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C12-Cso-carboxylic acids, which may be hydroxylated, as well as mixtures of the aforementioned non-ionic surfactants.

5. Composition according to claim 4, characterized in that the at least one glycerol mono- or -diester is selected from glycerol monostearate, glycerol distearate, glycerol monooleate, glycerol dioleate, glycerol monocaprinate, glycerol dicaprinate, glycerol monolaurate, glycerol dilaurate, glycerol monomyristate, glycerol dimyristate, glycerol monopaimitate, glycerol dipalmitate, glycerol mono-12-hydroxystearate, glycerol di-12-hydroxystearate, glycerol monoolanolate, glycerol dilanolate and mixtures of these substances.

6. Composition according to any one of claims 1-5, characterized in that the at least one linear 1-alkanol having 8 to 40 carbon atoms is selected from octan-1-ol, decan-1-ol, dodecan-1-ol, tetradecan-1-ol, hexadecan-1-ol, octadecan-1-ol, eicosan-1-ol, docosan-1-ol, (13E)-docosen-1-ol (brassidyl alcohol), (13Z)-docos-13-en-1-ol (erucyl alcohol) and lanolin alcohol as well as mixtures thereof.

7. Composition according to any one of claims 2-6, characterized in that, as a further anionic surfactant, at least one salt of a saturated or unsaturated C10-C22-alk(en)ylcarboxylic acid with a monovalent cation is included in a total amount of 0.1-1 wt.%, based on the weight of the composition, which is preferably selected from the sodium, potassium, ammonium and monoethanolamine salts of myristic acid, cetyl acid, palmitoleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, petroselinic acid, arachidic acid, gadoleic acid, behenic acid, erucic acid and brassidic acid as well as their technical mixtures.

8. Composition according to any one of claims 1-7, characterized in that it further comprises at least one polymer selected from cationic and zwitterionic polymers in a total amount of 0.05-3.0 wt.%, preferably 0.1-2.0 wt.%, particularly preferably 0.15-1.5 wt.%, and most preferably 0.15-1.0 wt.%, in each case based on the weight of the composition.

9. Composition according to any one of claims 1-8, characterized in that it further comprises at least one fatty component with a melting point of more than 50°C, which is different from the surfactants d) and the linear 1-alkanols e) with 8 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably in a total amount of 0.05-5 wt.%, preferably 0.2-4 wt.%, particularly preferably 0.3-3 wt.% and extraordinarily preferably 0.5-1.2 wt.%, in each case based on the weight of the composition.

10. Composition according to any one of claims 1-9, characterized in that the alkalizing agent f) is selected from ammonia, ammonium hydroxide, alkanolamines, alkali hydroxides, basic amino acids, alkali metal metasilicates, alkali metal disilicates, alkali phosphates and dialkali monohydrogen phosphates, as well as mixtures of these substances.

11. Composition according to any one of claims 1-10, characterized in that the coupler component contains 1-beta-hydroxyethyl-3,4-methylenedioxyaniline or at least one salt thereof, wherein the total amount of 1-beta-hydroxyethyl-3,4-methylenedioxyaniline and - if present - its salt(s) preferably amounts to 0.001 to 5.0 wt.%, preferably 0.01 to 2.5 wt.%, particularly preferably 0.05 to 0.8 wt.%, extraordinarily preferably 0.1 to 0.5 wt.%, further extraordinarily preferably 0.2 to 0.4 wt.%, in each case based on the weight of the composition.

12. A process for oxidative color change comprising the following process steps: i) Providing a cosmetic agent (M1) for the oxidative color change of keratinous fibers, in particular human hair, according to any one of claims 1 to 10, which is in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion and which, based on its weight, contains the following components: a) 45 to 85 wt.%, preferably 50 to 80 wt.%, particularly preferably 55 to 75 wt.%, most preferably 58 to 70 wt.% water, b) more than 5 wt.% to 20 wt.% coconut oil, c) additional oils in a total amount of zero to a maximum of 5 wt.%, d) at least one surfactant in a total amount of 4 to 15 wt.%, preferably 5 to 11 wt.%, e) at least one linear 1-alkanol having 8 to 40 carbon atoms in a total amount based on the weight of the agent - of 5 - 15 wt.%, preferably of 7 - 13 wt.%, particularly preferably of 8 - 10 wt.%.-%, f) at least one alkalizing agent, g) zero to less than 0.1 wt% of peroxide compounds, h) optionally at least one developer-type oxidation dye precursor and at least one coupler-type oxidation dye precursor, wherein the agent has a pH value in the range of 8.0 to 11.5, preferably in the range of 9.0 to 11.0, particularly preferably in the range of 9.5 to 10.7, and most preferably 9.8 to 10.5, in each case measured at a temperature of 20 °C, and ii) preferably providing an oxidizing agent preparation (M2) containing 40–96 wt%. 65–90 wt.%, particularly preferably 70–80 wt.%, water, furthermore hydrogen peroxide in a total amount of 0.5 to 23 wt.%, more preferably 2.5 to 21 wt.%, particularly preferably 4 to 20 wt.%, very preferably 5 to 18 wt.% and extremely preferably 6 to 12 wt.%, and having a pH value in the range of 2.0 to 6.5, preferably 2.5 to 5.5, particularly preferably 2.8 to 4.5, in each case measured at 20°C, wherein the wt.-% values ​​refer to the weight of the oxidizing agent preparation (M2), optionally containing at least one oil and / or at least one surfactant, iii) mixing the cosmetic agent (M1) with the oxidizing agent preparation (M2), preferably in a weight ratio (M1):(M2) in the range of 1:0.8 to 1:2.5, preferably 1:1 to 1:2, immediately followed by iv) applying the mixture obtained in step iii) to the hair and leaving this mixture on the hair for a time of 1 to 60 minutes, preferably 20 to 45 minutes, at room temperature and / or at 30–60°C, preferably at 32–50°C, v) rinsing the hair with water and / or a cleansing composition, and vi) optionally applying a post-treatment agent to the hair and optionally rinsing, followed by drying.

13. A process for the oxidative color modification of keratin fibers, in particular for the lightening of keratin fibers, comprising the following process steps: i) providing a cosmetic agent (M1) for the oxidative color modification of keratin fibers, in particular human hair, according to any one of claims 1 to 10, which is in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion and which, based on its weight, contains the following components: a) 45 to 85 wt.%, preferably 50 to 80 wt.%, particularly preferably 55 to 75 wt.%, most preferably 58 to 70 wt.% water, b) more than 5 wt.% to 20 wt.% coconut oil, c) additional oils in a total amount of zero to a maximum of 5 wt.%, d) at least one surfactant in a total amount of 4 to 15 wt.%, preferably 5 to 11 wt.%, e) at least one linear 1-alkanol with 8 to 40 carbon atoms in a total amount - based on the weight of the compound - of 5 - 15 wt.%, preferably of 7 - 13 wt.%.-%, particularly preferably 8-10 wt.%, f) at least one alkalizing agent, g) zero to less than 0.1 wt.% of peroxide compounds, h) optionally at least one developer-type oxidation dye precursor and at least one coupler-type oxidation dye precursor, wherein the agent has a pH value in the range of 8.0 to 11.5, preferably in the range of 9.0 to 11.0, particularly preferably in the range of 9.5 to 10.7, most preferably 9.8 to 10.5, in each case measured at a temperature of 20 °C, ii) providing an oxidizing agent preparation (M2) containing 40-96 wt.%, preferably. 65–90 wt.%, particularly preferably 70–80 wt.%, water, furthermore hydrogen peroxide in a total amount of 0.5–23 wt.%, more preferably 2.5–21 wt.%, more preferably 4–20 wt.%, most preferably 5–18 wt.%, and most preferably 6–12 wt.%, and having a pH value in the range of 2.0–6.5, preferably 2.5–5.5, more preferably 2.8–4.5, in each case measured at 20°C, wherein the wt.% values ​​refer in each case to the weight of the oxidizing agent preparation (M2), optionally containing at least one oil and / or at least one surfactant, and iii) providing an oxidizing agent preparation (M3) different from (M2), comprising i) at least one oxidizing agent selected from the inorganic salts of a peroxosulfuric acid, as well as mixtures of these salts, and j) and 0 to 10 wt.%, preferably 0.1 to 8 wt.%, particularly preferably 0.5 to 5 wt.% water, wherein the wt.-% values ​​refer to the weight of the oxidizing agent preparation (M3), k) wherein (M3) optionally contains at least one oil and / or at least one surfactant, iv) mixing the cosmetic product (M1) with the oxidizing agent preparations (M2) and. (M3), wherein it is preferred that the aforementioned components (M1), (M2) and (M3) are composed with respect to the weight ratio (M1):(M2):(M3) of the three components to one another such that the weight ratio (M1):(M2) is in the range of 1:0.8 to 1:2.5, preferably 1:1 to 1:2, and (M3) is contained in an amount of 5–25 wt.%, preferably 7–20 wt.%, particularly preferably 7.5–17 wt.%, based on the weight of the entire mixture of (M1), (M2) and (M3), immediately afterwards v) applying the mixture obtained in step iv) to the hair and leaving this mixture on the hair for a time of 1 to 60 minutes, preferably 20 to 45 minutes, at room temperature and / or at 30–60°C, preferably at 32–50°C, vi) Rinsing the hair with water and / or a cleansing composition, and vii) if necessary, applying a post-treatment product to the hair and, if necessary, rinsing, then drying.

14. Kit-of-parts, which, packaged separately, comprises: i) at least one container (C1) containing an agent for the oxidative color change of keratinous fibers, in particular human hair, according to any one of claims 1 to 10, which is in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion and which, based on its weight, contains the following components: a) 45 to 85 wt.%, preferably 50 to 80 wt.%, particularly preferably 55 to 75 wt.%, most preferably 58 to 70 wt.% water, b) more than 5 wt.% to 20 wt.% coconut oil, c) additional oils in a total amount of zero to a maximum of 5 wt.%, d) at least one surfactant in a total amount of 4–15 wt.%, preferably 5–11 wt.%, e) at least one linear 1-alkanol with 8 to 40 carbon atoms in a total amount—based on the weight of the agent—of 5–15 wt.%, preferably 7–13 wt.%, particularly preferably 8–10 wt.%, f) at least one alkalizing agent, g) zero to less than 0.1 wt.%.-% of peroxide compounds, h) optionally at least one developer-type oxidation dye precursor and at least one coupler-type oxidation dye precursor, wherein the agent has a pH value in the range of 8.0 to 11.5, preferably in the range of 9.0 to 11.0, particularly preferably in the range of 9.5 to 10.7, and extraordinarily preferably 9.8 to 10.5, in each case measured at a temperature of 20 °C, and ii) at least one container (C2) containing an oxidizing agent preparation (M2) comprising 40–96 wt.%, preferably 65–90 wt.%, and extraordinarily preferably 70–80 wt.% water, further comprising hydrogen peroxide in a total amount of 0.5 to 23 wt.%, more preferably 2.5 to 21 wt.%, particularly preferably 4 to 20 wt.%, most preferably 5 to 18 wt.%, and extraordinarily preferably 6 to 12 wt.%, and a pH value in the range of 2.0 to 6.5, preferably 2.5 to 5.5, particularly preferably 2.8 to 4.5, each measured at 20°C, wherein the weight-% values ​​refer to the weight of the oxidizing agent preparation (M2), optionally including at least one oil and / or at least one surfactant.

15. Kit-of-parts according to claim 14, further comprising a separately packaged oxidizing agent preparation (M3) comprising l) at least one oxidizing agent selected from the inorganic salts of a peroxosulfuric acid, as well as mixtures of these salts, and m) 0 to 10 wt.%, preferably 0.1 to 8 wt.%, particularly preferably 0.5 to 5 wt.% water, wherein the wt.% values ​​refer to the weight of the oxidizing agent preparation (M3), n) wherein (M3) optionally contains at least one oil and / or at least one surfactant.

Images