Cosmetic composition

Abstract

The present disclosure provides a cosmetic composition comprising a plurality of capsules and a preservative, said capsules comprising a core and a shell encapsulating the core, wherein the core comprises or consists of a hydrophilic cosmetic active and wherein the shell comprises or consists of a polymer network comprising a first polymer, a second polymer and a cation. The present disclosure further relates to a cosmetic product comprising the cosmetic composition, to a method of preparing the cosmetic composition, and to a method of improving the penetration of a cosmetic active and / or of increasing the bioaccumulation of a cosmetic active.

Description

[0001] Cosmetic Composition

[0002] The present disclosure relates to a cosmetic composition comprising a plurality of capsules, said capsules comprising a core and a shell encapsulating the core, wherein the core comprises or consists of a hydrophilic cosmetic active. The present disclosure further relates to a cosmetic product comprising the cosmetic composition and to a method of preparing the cosmetic composition.

[0003] The desire to appear attractive is naturally rooted in modern consumers. Even as the ideal of attractiveness undergoes change over the course of time, it is universally accepted that the condition and appearance of our skin and hair is a significant contributor to an attractive outward appearance.

[0004] Today’s consumers are offered a multitude of cosmetic products for the care of skin. Generally, these products are in the form of creams and lotions, containing water for moisturizing the skin, and fats and lipids for re-greasing it, and their effects are mostly exerted on the outer-most layer of the skin. There is a wide variety of cosmetic actives for skin care available on the market, offering benefits such as moisturization or hydration, anti-ageing, UV protection, soothing, lightening or darkening, etc.

[0005] Depending on the nature of the cosmetic active(s) used in such cosmetic products, their efficacy may be somewhat limited due to poor penetration of the active into the skin and / or hair. This is particular the case for hydrophilic cosmetic actives and for those with a relatively high molecular weight, which tend to have a low bioavailability in the skin due to their limited ability to cross the skin barrier.

[0006] Apart from this, certain cosmetic actives are also prone to oxidation, degradation and other mechanisms affecting their stability and / or activity. The list of such sensitive materials is long and includes, among others, vitamins, acids, lipids, essential oils, and certain biomolecules. It is therefore desirable to provide protection for these cosmetic actives in order to increase their shelflife and ensure their beneficial cosmetic effects.

[0007] To achieve these goals, sensitive cosmetic actives have been encapsulated. For example, alginate based core-shell capsules obtained by coextrusion may be used for the preservation of oils and essential oils, probiotics, and other bioactives (Bennacef et al., Foods 2023, 12(9), 1788). Alginate microspheres may also be obtained by emulsification / internal gelation (Lupo et al., Food Hydrocolloids 2014, 38, 56-65). Alginate-based core-shell capsules have also been prepared by

[0008] 31502 PCT / 19.12.2025 other methods; but again, they were used for encapsulating lipophilic (i.e. hydrophobic) ingredients in the core (see e.g. EP 4 252 736 or CN 105310894). Furthermore, the capsules described in these last two documents have a diameter in the micro- to millimeter range.

[0009] However, encapsulation typically leads to a lower concentration of the active and often causes a loss in transparency. Furthermore, their production often requires the use of organic solvents.

[0010] The drawbacks of the prior art are overcome by the present invention, which is described below.

[0011] In a first aspect, the present invention provides a cosmetic composition comprising a plurality of capsules and a preservative, said capsules comprising a core and a shell encapsulating the core. The core comprises or consists of a hydrophilic cosmetic active. The shell comprises or consists of a polymer network comprising a first polymer, a second polymer and a cation. The first polymer is selected from the group consisting of alginic acid, alginate and mixtures thereof. The second polymer is a glycosaminoglycan. And the cation is selected from the group consisting of Ca2+, Mg2+, Zn2+, Cu2+, Fe2+, Fe3+, Al3+, and mixtures thereof.

[0012] Surprisingly, it was found that the capsules of the invention improved the stability of the hydrophilic cosmetic active. Without being bound by theory, it is believed that the capsules provide a protection against enzymes present on skin, thereby improving the half-life of the cosmetic active.

[0013] It was also found that the cosmetic composition of the invention exhibited an improved (skin) penetration.

[0014] Furthermore, the cosmetic composition of the invention was able to deliver the cosmetic benefits faster and with better results. Without being bound by theory, it is believed that this improved performance may be due to a better bio accumulation in the skin. The capsules also provide a controlled and prolonged release of the cosmetic active.

[0015] The cosmetic composition of the invention also allows for an easy formulation.

[0016] Last but not least, the capsules of the invention are transparent, which is highly desirable for cosmetic applications. This is particularly noteworthy because the core comprises or consists of a hydrophilic cosmetic active.

[0017] In a second aspect, the present invention provides a cosmetic product comprising the cosmetic composition of the invention and a cosmetically acceptable excipient.

[0018] 31502 PCT / 19.12.2025 In a third aspect, the present invention provides a method of preparing the cosmetic composition of the invention. This method comprises the steps of

[0019] (i) combining the cations, optionally in the form of a salt, with an aqueous solvent, to obtain a first phase;

[0020] (ii) combining the first polymer with the second polymer in an aqueous solvent, optionally at an elevated temperature, and adding the hydrophilic cosmetic active to obtain a second phase;

[0021] (iii) optionally combining more of the first polymer with an aqueous solvent, optionally at an elevated temperature, to obtain a third phase;

[0022] (iv) adding the second phase to the first phase;

[0023] (v) optionally adding the third phase to the combined first and second phase;

[0024] (vi) optionally adjusting the pH to about 6.5 to 7; and

[0025] (vii) adding a preservative.

[0026] This method allows for a fast, reliable and easily scalable preparation of the capsules of the invention, ensuring consistent quality. Furthermore, it is highly cost effective, making it an efficient choice for large-scale applications.

[0027] The present invention and its embodiments will be described in more detail below.

[0028] The cosmetic composition of the invention comprises a plurality of capsules comprising a core and a shell encapsulating the core. In other words, the composition comprises core-shell capsules.

[0029] Core-shell capsules are generally known, both in the cosmetic field and for other applications, e.g. for encapsulating fragrance oil. The nature and size of such capsules is typically adapted to the intended application. For use in cosmetic compositions, the capsule ingredients are typically selected such that they are suitable for application to the skin and / or hair, that they exhibit sufficient stability in the intended cosmetic formulation, that they allow for an effective delivery of the contained cosmetic active(s) to the desired site of application, and that they exhibit a suitable release profile of the cosmetic active(s).

[0030] The core of the capsules of the invention comprises or consists of a hydrophilic cosmetic active.

[0031] As used throughout this disclosure, the term “hydrophilic” relates to a material that is attracted to water molecules and tends to be dissolved by water. In other words, a hydrophilic material is one whose interactions with water and other polar substances are more thermodynamically favorable

[0032] 31502 PCT / 19.12.2025 than their interactions with oil or other hydrophobic solvents. Hydrophilic molecules are typically charge-polarized and capable of hydrogen bonding. This makes these molecules soluble not only in water but also in polar solvents.

[0033] Throughout this disclosure, the terms “material” and “substance” are used interchangeably.

[0034] “Cosmetic actives” means any and all natural, naturally occurring, nature identical, synthetic, synthetically produced, biosynthetically produced, sustainable, renewable and / or biodegradable compounds, ingredients, intermediates, molecules, substances, raw materials or products individually or as part of a mixture of compounds, ingredients, intermediates, molecules, substances, raw materials or products, blends, compositions, useful in / used for / intended for cleansing, caring, cooling, beautifying, conditioning, treating, soothing, texturizing, promoting attractiveness, protecting, maintaining, improving, enhancing, altering and / or changing an external part and / or surface of a human or animal body (such as, but not limited to the scalp) or the aesthetic appearance of a human or animal body; and / or with a view to mainly cleaning or perfuming, or protecting or maintaining in good condition or combating body odour or changing the appearance of or correcting or repairing a state of imbalance in skin, oral mucosa, scalp or hair by providing a calming, healing, repairing, or revitalization, hydration of the skin or in order to provide relief to, lubricate, moisten, tone, heal, sterilize, relieve, correct and / or remedy states of dryness, irritation, injury or fatigue, and / or with a view to correcting pigmentation disorders or providing a non-pharmaceutical prevention and / or treatment of dandruff, acne, irritation and / or inflammation and the like and / or rebalancing the bacterial flora (such as, for example, the microbiome) on the surface of the skin (such as, for example, by promoting the level of beneficial bacterial flora on the skin surface) and / or for the purposes of keeping a human or animal body in good condition for health and / or wellbeing purposes and / or for improving the appearance of a human or animal body by, for example, improving the appearance of a product applied to a human or body.

[0035] When we use the terms “consists of’ or “consisting of”, we mean that the composition being described must contain the listed ingredient(s) only. When we use the terms “consisting essentially of” or “consists essentially of’, we mean that the composition or extract being described must contain the listed ingredient(s) and may also contain small (for example up to 2% by weight, or up to 1 % or up to 0.1 % or 0.01 % by weight) of other ingredients provided that any additional ingredients do not affect the essential properties of the composition or extract. These terms can be applied in an analogous manner to processes, methods and uses.

[0036] 31502 PCT / 19.12.2025 Throughout the disclosure, it is intended that the term “comprises or consists of’ also includes “consists essentially of” as defined above.

[0037] It is also intended that the terms “comprise” or “comprises” or “comprising” may be replaced with “consist of’ or “consists of” or “consisting of” throughout the disclosure.

[0038] The term “about” as used herein, e.g. when referring to a measurable value (such as an amount of weight of a particular component in the composition or reaction mixture), refers to variations of ±20%, ±10%, ±5%, ±1%, ±0.5%, or particularly, ±0.1 %, of the specified amount.

[0039] The shell comprises or consists of a polymer network comprising a first polymer, a second polymer and a cation. Without being bound by theory, it is believed that the first and second polymers organize into a nanomeric network around the cosmetic active, forming a gel matrix at the nanoscale. This nanogel results in a homogeneous dispersion of the cosmetic active, offering a more refined structure with the potential for greater stability and control in the release of the encapsulated substance(s). The cations serve for stabilizing the polymer network, ensuring structural integrity and optimal performance. Furthermore, the cations can also improve the adhesion to the skin and / or hair.

[0040] The first polymer is selected from the group consisting of alginic acid, alginate and mixtures thereof. Alginic acid, also called algin, is a naturally occurring, edible polysaccharide found in brown algae. It is hydrophilic and forms a viscous gum when hydrated. When the alginic acid binds with sodium and calcium ions, the resulting salts are known as alginates.

[0041] Alginates are well-known in the context of fragrance formulation, more specifically for forming heterogenous matrix particles having a continuous phase of a polymer and a discontinuous phase of a fragrance oil (see e.g. US 8,119,175).

[0042] Alginic acid is a linear copolymer with homopolymeric blocks of (1 — >4)-linked [3-D-mannuronate (M) and a-L-guluronate (G) residues, respectively, covalently linked together in different sequences or blocks. It has the general chemical formula:

[0043] 31502 PCT / 19.12.2025 Depending on the pH, the first polymer may be in the form of alginic acid, of an alginate, or of a mixture thereof.

[0044] As an alternative or in addition to alginic acid and / or alginate, it would also be possible to include a collagen peptide (e.g. gelatin) and / or pectin and / or pea protein in the first protein of the shell.

[0045] The second polymer is a glycosaminoglycan.

[0046] Glycosaminoglycans are polysaccharide comprising repeating disaccharide units, each disaccharide unit consisting of an amino sugar and a non-amino sugar. The non-amino sugar may be in particular a uronic sugar or galactose. The amino sugar may be in particular N-acetyl- glucosamine. The glycosaminoglycan may be in the form of a salt or not. Glycosaminoglycans include, in particular, heparin, heparan sulfate, chondroitin sulfate, dermatan sulfate, keratan sulfate, hyaluronic acid, hyaluronate, and HE800 exopolysaccharide.

[0047] It has been found that by including a glycosaminoglycan, the water retention of the capsules can be improved, thereby improving the retention of the hydrophilic cosmetic active.

[0048] The cation is selected from the group consisting of Ca2+, Mg2+, Zn2+, Cu2+, Fe2+, Fe3+, Al3+, and mixtures thereof. It has been found that these cations allow for the formation of a sufficiently stable shell when combined with the first and second polymers. Preferably, the cation is Ca2+.

[0049] In an embodiment, the glycosaminoglycan is selected from the group consisting of a hyaluronic acid, a hyaluronate, HE800 exopolysaccharide, and mixtures thereof.

[0050] Hyaluronic acid, often abbreviated as HA and also called hyaluronan, is an anionic, non-sulfated glycosaminoglycan distributed widely throughout connective, epithelial, and neural tissues. It is unique among glycosaminoglycans as it is non-sulfated.

[0051] Hyaluronic acid is a polymer of disaccharides, which are composed of D-glucuronic acid and N- acetyl-D-glucosamine, linked via alternating [3-(1— >4) and (3-(1 — >3) glycosidic bonds. It has the general chemical formula:

[0052] 31502 PCT / 19.12.2025

[0053]

[0054] Depending on the pH, it may be in the form of a hyaluronic acid, of an hyaluronate, or of a mixture thereof.

[0055] Hyaluronic acid can have a wide range of molecular weight. Based on the experiments conducted, it appears that more or less any size can be used in the capsules of the invention.

[0056] HE800 is an exopolysaccharide secreted by a deep-sea hydrothermal bacterium, Vibrio diabolicus (see e.g. Rougeaux et al., “Structure of the exopolysaccharide of Vibrio diabolicus isolated from a deep-sea hydrothermal vent”, Carbohydr Res. 1999 Nov 23;322(1-2): 40-5). HE800 exopolysaccharide is constituted by a linear non-sulfated tetrasaccharidic repeating unit, including equal amounts of glucuronic acid and hexosamine (N-acetyl-glucosamine and N-acetyl- galactosamine), i.e. [(3)-D-GlcNAc-p-(1— >4)-D-GlcA-p-(1— >4)-D-GlcA-p-(1— >4)-D-GlcA-D-

[0057] GalNAc-a-(1)]n. It has the general chemical formula: to provide a dense network with strong barrier properties, resulting in a better retention of the cosmetic active and allowing for a controlled release. In addition to increasing viscosity and forming thicker films, high molecular weight polymers also enhance the mechanical stability of the capsule, making it more robust.

[0058] 31502 PCT / 19.12.2025 A second polymer with a high molecular weight, on the other hand, tends to form a less viscous network, resulting in a light and permeable shell. This provides greater flexibility to the capsules, making them suitable for applications that benefit from a rapid release.

[0059] In an embodiment, the second polymer has a weight average molecular weight of about 0.5 MDa to about 2 MDa, more preferably of about 0.8 MDa to about 1.5 MDa, and most preferably of about 1 MDa to about 1 .2 MDa. It has been found that this will provide more robust capsules.

[0060] In another embodiment, the second polymer has a weight average molecular weight of about 100 kDa to about 300 kDa, more preferably of about 110 kDa to about 200 kDa, and most preferably of about 120 kDa to about 185 kDa. It has been found that this will provide more flexible capsules.

[0061] In an embodiment, the second polymer is hyaluronic acid or a hyaluronate salt with a weight average molecular weight of about 0.5 MDa to about 2 MDa, more preferably of about 0.8 MDa to about 1.5 MDa, and most preferably of about 1 MDa to about 1.2 MDa.

[0062] The weight ratio of the first polymer to the second polymer may be selected in view of the intended use or application. For example, it has been found that the concentration of the second polymer may have an influence on the capsule size.

[0063] In an embodiment, the weight ratio of the first polymer to the second polymer is from about 1 :1 to about 100:1 , more preferably from about 2:1 to about 50:1 , still more preferably from about 5:1 to about 20:1 , and most preferably about 10:1.

[0064] These ratios provide capsules of a size suitable for cosmetic applications. Generally, a capsule size in the range of about 70 nm and several millimeters can be achieved.

[0065] Furthermore, the capsules are transparent or only slightly cloudy.

[0066] The conformation of the capsules not only depends on the polymer concentration, but also on the amount of cations. Suitable concentrations of cations may vary depending on the cation selected. For example, Ca2+, the weight ratio between the first polymer and the Ca2+ions may be about 1 :1 to about 10:1 , more preferably about 6:1.

[0067] The encapsulation method used may also influence the structure of the capsules. Suitable methods will be described further down.

[0068] 31502 PCT / 19.12.2025 In an embodiment, a third polymer is applied to the outer surface of the shell. Said third polymer preferably forms an electrostatic interaction with the first polymer and / or with the second polymer and / or with the cation.

[0069] The application of a third polymer may change the surface structure, the surface charge and / or the stiffness.

[0070] Preferably, the third polymer comprises an acidic and / or cationic group. It has been found that the use of such a third polymer is able to improve the adhesion on skin and hair. For example, the third polymer may comprise a carboxylic acid group and / or an ammonium group.

[0071] In an embodiment, the third polymer is selected from the group consisting of polylysine, polyepsylonlysine, polyethylenimine, cationized hyaluronic acid, cationized hyaluronate, alginic acid, gelatin, wheat protein, guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, and mixtures thereof. For example, the third polymer may be a hydroxypropyltrialkylammonium hyaluronate and / or a salt thereof. Preferably, the third polymer comprises or consists of polylysine.

[0072] It has been found that these polymers are able to enhance the capsule stability, presumably through electrostatic interactions. Furthermore, they may be beneficial for biocompatibility and improve formulation versatility across different product types.

[0073] Without being bound by theory, it is believed that an electrostatic interaction occurs between the opposite charges of the polymers, where the positively charged third polymer interacts with the negative charges present on the surface of the first and / or second polymers, leading to a complex coacervation.

[0074] In these embodiments, the concentration of the third polymer can be adjusted depending on the intended application. For example, a positive surface charge may improve adhesion to skin or hair.

[0075] In an embodiment, the weight ratio of the first polymer to the third polymer is from about 1 :1 to about 100:1 , more preferably from about 2:1 to about 50:1 , still more preferably from about 3:1 to about 20:1 , and most preferably from about 5:1 to about 10:1. Thus, preferably, the amount of the first polymer is higher than that of the third polymer.

[0076] In an embodiment, the weight ratio of the second polymer to the third polymer is from about 1 :1 to about 50:1 , more preferably from about 2:1 to about 20:1 , still more preferably from about 3:1

[0077] 31502 PCT / 19.12.2025 to about 10:1 , and most preferably from about 5:1. Thus, preferably, the amount of the second polymer is higher than that of the third polymer.

[0078] The above ratios have been found to provide capsules with outstanding properties for cosmetic applications, in particular with regard to stability and penetration.

[0079] For example, the weight ratio of the of the first polymer to the second polymer to the third polymer may be about 6:2:1.

[0080] The capsules of the invention are suitable for encapsulating a wide range of cosmetic actives.

[0081] They are particularly advantageous for encapsulating hydrophilic cosmetic actives, as they are able to not only improve the stability of the actives, but also to increase their permeability.

[0082] Examples of hydrophilic cosmetic actives include, but are not limited to, plant extracts (e.g. from chamomille, green tea, matcha, aloe vera, coconut, jambu, algae, etc.), amino acids (e.g. taurine, creatine, proline, lysine, arginine, etc.), proteins, peptides, acids (e.g. ascorbic acid, ellagic acid, salicylic acid, glycolic acid, glutamic acid, a-hydroxy acids, etc.), vitamins, sugars and sugar derivatives, hyaluronic acid and hyaluronic acid derivatives.

[0083] In an embodiment, the hydrophilic cosmetic active is selected from the group consisting of vitamins B, vitamin C, vitamin E, collagen, a peptide, a hyaluronic acid, a hyaluronic acid salt, an acetylated hyaluronic acid, an acetylated hyaluronate, a cationized hyaluronic acid, a hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid, a hydrolyzed hyaluronate, a polysaccharide, an oligosaccharide, a monosaccharide, mannose-6-phosphate, a polyphenol, an exosome, a plant extract, a prebiotic, a probiotic, a post- biotic, niacinamide, tranexamic acid, epigallocatechin gallate, epigallocatechin gallate glucoside, taxifolin, taxifolin glucoside, N-acetyl tyrosine, and mixtures thereof.

[0084] It has been found that the capsules of the invention are particularly advantageous for encapsulating these cosmetic actives.

[0085] More specific examples include, but are not limited to, palmitoyl tripeptide-1 ; taxifolin glucoside and / or N-acetyl tyrosine (e.g. Darkenyl); mannose-6-phosphate and / or mannose (e.g. Agefinity); taxifolin and / or epigallocatechin gallate glucoside (e.g. Redensyl); collagen (e.g. vegan collagen, which may optionally comprise glucose and / or mannose); algae extracts.

[0086] In order to further stabilize the hydrophilic cosmetic active, it is possible to include one or more stabilizing agents in the core. For example, an antioxidant, a chelating agent, a pH stabilizer, a

[0087] 31502 PCT / 19.12.2025 humectant, and / or an enzyme inhibitor can be added to enhance the stability of the hydrophilic active in the core.

[0088] In an embodiment, the core further comprises an antioxidant.

[0089] Examples of suitable antioxidants include, but are not limited to, tocopherol (vitamin E), ascorbic acid (vitamin C), ferulic acid, and metabisulfite.

[0090] In an embodiment, the core further comprises a chelating agent.

[0091] Examples of suitable chelating agents include, but are not limited to, ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA), phytic acid, lactic acid, and citric acid.

[0092] In an embodiment, the core further comprises a pH stabilizer.

[0093] Examples of suitable pH stabilizers include, but are not limited to, citric acid, a phosphate buffer, triethanolamine, lactic acid, and glycolic acid.

[0094] In an embodiment, the core further comprises a humectant.

[0095] Examples of suitable humectants include, but are not limited to, glycerin and propylene glycol.

[0096] The size of the capsules may be adjusted depending on the intended use of the cosmetic composition of the invention.

[0097] In an embodiment, the capsules have an average diameter of about 100 nm to about 5000 nm, more preferably of about 150 nm to about 1500 nm, and most preferably of about 200 nm to about 800 nm. It was found that such capsules with a diameter in the nanometer range allow for a particularly good skin penetration. Also, they are fully transparent and, thus, invisible when incorporated into the cosmetic composition.

[0098] Depending on the intended application, larger capsule diameters (e.g. in the millimeter range) may also be advantageous.

[0099] The capsule size may be determined according to known methods, for example by measuring dynamic light scattering.

[0100] For example, the average diameter of the capsules may be measured using a Malvern Zetasizer Nano Series - Nano ZS90 (Malvern Instruments), based on the intensity average detected by dynamic light scattering. This may involve placing diluted samples in disposable polystyrene

[0101] 31502 PCT / 19.12.2025 cuvettes and measuring the scatter intensity at 25 °C. Size values may be reported as mean hydrodynamic diameter (MHD), with standard deviation (SD), and polydispersity index (PDI).

[0102] It has been found that, for cosmetic applications, a smaller capsule size is preferable, because it provides better (skin) penetration. For example, an average diameter of about 200 nm to about 600 nm may be advantageous.

[0103] However, it is also possible to prepare larger capsules with an average diameter in the millimeter range. For example, in order visualize capsule the structure, capsules with an average diameter of about 3 mm have been prepared (see examples below).

[0104] Furthermore, it may be advantageous if the capsules have a narrow particle size distribution. To this end, it may be beneficial to apply a high shear force during the preparation of the capsules. Having capsules with a narrow distribution profile offers advantages, such as the controlled release of the encapsulated actives, as well as homogeneous skin permeation and distribution. The uniformity may also improve the physical stability of the product, making it less susceptible to degradation and destabilization.

[0105] The cosmetic composition of the invention comprises a preservative. Suitable preservatives include, but are not limited to sodium benzoate, potassium sorbate, hydroxyacetophenone (4- HAP), phenoxyethanol, hexane diol, propane diol, caprylhydroxamic acid, caprylyl glycol, and mixtures thereof.

[0106] In an embodiment, the preservative is selected from the group consisting of sodium benzoate, potassium sorbate, hydroxyacetophenone, hexane diol, propane diol, caprylhydroxamic acid, caprylyl glycol, and mixtures thereof.

[0107] The cosmetic composition of the invention may optionally further comprise one or more adjuvants.

[0108] In an embodiment, the cosmetic composition further comprises a solvent, an antioxidant, an emulsifier, and / or a tensoactive. For example, the cosmetic composition may further comprise water.

[0109] Typically, these adjuvants are added after the formation of the capsules, although not always. An antioxidant, for example, can be incorporated inside the capsule along with the active ingredient if the goal is to protect the active from oxidative degradation.

[0110] 31502 PCT / 19.12.2025 In a further aspect, the present invention also provides a cosmetic product comprising the cosmetic composition of the invention and a cosmetically acceptable excipient.

[0111] Preferably, the cosmetic product comprises the cosmetic composition in one of the preferred embodiments outline herein.

[0112] Any excipients commonly used in the preparation of cosmetic products for use on the human skin may be employed in the present invention.

[0113] Suitable cosmetic excipients are typically those that are suitable for topical administration to the outer surface of the human body, such as the skin and / or hair and / or scalp.

[0114] The excipient can be in a wide variety of forms. In some instances, the solubility or dispersibility of the components (e.g. extracts, sunscreen active, additional components) may dictate the form and character of the excipient. Non-limiting examples include simple solutions (e.g. aqueous or anhydrous), dispersions, emulsions, and solid forms (e.g. gels, sticks, flowable solids, or amorphous materials).

[0115] Suitable excipients include, but are not limited to, ingredients that can influence organoleptic properties, penetration of the skin and / or hair, and the bioavailability of the cosmetic active. More specifically, they include liquids, such as water, oils or surfactants, including those of petroleum, animal, plant or synthetic origin, such as and not restricted to, peanut oil, soybean oil, mineral oil, sesame oil, castor oil, polysorbates, sorbitan esters, ether sulfates, sulfates, betaines, glycosides, maltosides, fatty alcohols, nonoxynols, poloxamers, polyoxyethylenes, polyethylene glycols, dextrose, glycerol, digitonin, and the like.

[0116] In some embodiments, a cosmetically acceptable excipient refers to a cosmetically acceptable material, composition, or vehicle, such as a liquid or solid filler, diluent, solvent, or encapsulating material. In some embodiments, the excipient is cosmetically acceptable in the sense of being compatible with the other ingredients of a topical formulation, and suitable for use in contact with the skin and / or hair. Any excipients commonly used in the preparation of formulations suitable for topical application to the human skin and / or hair, such as cosmetic preparations and fine fragrances, may be employed in the present invention.

[0117] The cosmetic product according to the present invention may take any physical form.

[0118] For example, it may be produced in any solid, liquid, or semi-solid form useful for application to the skin and / or hair, in particular topically. Such these products for topical application include, but

[0119] 31502 PCT / 19.12.2025 are not restricted to, creams, multiple emulsions, such as and not restricted to, oil and / or silicone in water emulsions, water-in-oil and / or silicone emulsions, water / oil / water or water / silicone / water type emulsions, and oil / water / oil or silicone / water / silicone type emulsions, micro-emulsions, emulsions and / or solutions, liquid crystals, anhydrous compositions, aqueous dispersions, oils, milks, butters, balsams, foams, aqueous or oily lotions, aqueous or oily gels, cream, hydroalcoholic solutions, hydro-glycolic solutions, hydrogels, liniments, sera, soaps, face masks, serums, polysaccharide films, ointments, mousses, pomades, pastes, powders, bars, pencils and sprays or aerosols (sprays), including leave-on and rinse-off formulations.

[0120] The cosmetic product may be in the form of a liposome composition, mixed liposomes, oleosomes, niosomes, ethosomes, milliparticles, dendrimers, microparticles, nanoparticles and solid-lipid nanoparticles, vesicles, micelles, mixed micelles of surfactants, surfactant-phospholipid mixed micelles, millispheres, microspheres and nanospheres, lipospheres, millicapsules, micro-capsules and nanocapsules, as well as microemulsions and nanoemulsions, which can be added to achieve a greater penetration of the cosmetic active.

[0121] The cosmetic product of the invention may be, for instance, a skin care product or a hair care product.

[0122] The cosmetic product may be all manner of personal care products of the leave-on or rinse-off variety, including, but not limited to, make-up preparations, fine fragrances, colognes, toilet water, soaps and detergents, deodorants, antiperspirants, douches, feminine hygiene deodorants, shaving preparations, skin care preparations, e.g. cleansing, depilatories, face and neck, body, hands and feet, moisturizers, sun protection products, e.g. creams, oils, gels, solids or bi-phasics, suntan preparations, e.g. gels, creams, and liquids, and indoor tanning preparations.

[0123] The cosmetic product of the present invention may be any product typically used for hair care, including but not limited to a shampoo, conditioner, spray, treatment, mask, strengthener, preshampoo, lotion, serum, cream, foam, mousse, and gel. Preferably, the cosmetic product is a shampoo, anti-frizz hair spray, beauty hair mask, hair shininess serum, hair conditioner, hair strengthener pre-shampoo, or hair protection lotion.

[0124] In an embodiment, the cosmetic product is selected from the group consisting of a serum, a cream, a lotion, a shampoo, a conditioner, and a mask.

[0125] It has been found that the cosmetic composition of the invention is particularly beneficial for these products.

[0126] 31502 PCT / 19.12.2025 The compositions and products of the present invention can additionally also comprise any suitable optional ingredients as desired. Such optional ingredients should be physically and chemically compatible with the components of the composition or product, and should not otherwise unduly impair stability, aesthetics or performance. The CTFA Cosmetic Ingredient Handbook, Tenth Edition (published by the Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association, Inc., Washington D.C.) (2004) describes a wide variety of non-limiting materials that can be added to the compositions and products of the present invention.

[0127] The present invention further provides a method of preparing the cosmetic composition of the invention.

[0128] The method comprises the steps of

[0129] (i) combining the cations, optionally in the form of a salt, with an aqueous solvent to obtain a first phase;

[0130] (ii) combining the first polymer with the second polymer in an aqueous solvent, optionally at an elevated temperature, and adding the hydrophilic cosmetic active to obtain a second phase;

[0131] (iii) optionally combining more of the first polymer with an aqueous solvent, optionally at an elevated temperature, to obtain a third phase;

[0132] (iv) adding the second phase to the first phase;

[0133] (v) optionally adding the third phase to the combined first and second phase;

[0134] (vi) optionally adjusting the pH to about 6.5 to about 7; and

[0135] (vii) adding a preservative.

[0136] In other words, the method of the invention comprises at least the following steps:

[0137] (i) combining the cations with an aqueous solvent to obtain a first phase;

[0138] (ii) combining the first polymer with the second polymer in an aqueous solvent and adding the hydrophilic cosmetic active to obtain a second phase;

[0139] (iv) adding the second phase to the first phase; and

[0140] (vii) adding a preservative.

[0141] The cations and first, second and third polymers are as defined above, with the preferred embodiments as described above. Thus, the first polymer is selected from the group consisting of alginic acid, alginate and mixtures thereof. The second polymer is a glycosaminoglycan. And the

[0142] 31502 PCT / 19.12.2025 cation is selected from the group consisting of Ca2+, Mg2+, Zn2+, Cu2+, Fe2+, Fe3+, Al3+, and mixtures thereof.

[0143] The third polymer is preferably selected from the group consisting of polylysine, polyepsylonlysine, polyethylenimine, cationized hyaluronic acid, cationized hyaluronate, alginic acid, gelatin, wheat protein, guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, and mixtures thereof.

[0144] The aqueous solvent is typically water, which may optionally contain another hydrophilic solvent, such as glycerol, propane diol and / or propylene glycol.

[0145] Water used in the invention should comply with the requirements for cosmetic formulations. Therefore, preferably, deionized water is used. For example, the water may be deionized by reverse osmosis.

[0146] When preparing the first, second and / or optionally third phase, it is preferable for the components to be completely or essentially completely solubilized before combining the respective phase with another phase.

[0147] Preferably, when preparing the first, second and optionally third phase, the respective mixture is agitated and / or stirred until it becomes transparent.

[0148] Preferably, when combining two phases, the respective mixture is agitated and / or stirred until it becomes transparent.

[0149] Agitation may be done, for example, using mechanical and / or magnetic stirring.

[0150] Stirring may be done, for example, using an Ultraturrax. The use of an Ultraturrax for stirring allows for preparing smaller (down to the nano-size) capsules.

[0151] Some of the steps may be conducted at elevated temperature. A suitable elevated temperature may be, for example, about 40 °C or about 50 °C or up to about 70 °C. Use of an elevated temperature accelerates the solubilization of the respective components in the solvent.

[0152] The first and second polymers may be added in one step.

[0153] Alternatively, it is also possible to add the first and / or second polymer in more than one step, for example in two, three, four, five or more steps. Thus, the total amount of the respective polymer to be added may be split up into several partial amounts, which are added in separate steps.

[0154] 31502 PCT / 19.12.2025 In the first step of the method of the invention, the cations are combined with an aqueous solvent to obtain a first phase.

[0155] Optionally, the cations are added in the form of a salt. For example, the cations may be in the form of a chloride, sulphate or phosphate salt.

[0156] In the second step, the first polymer and the second polymer are combined in an aqueous solvent, and the hydrophilic cosmetic active is added to obtain a second phase.

[0157] Optionally, this step is performed at an elevated temperature, for example at about 70 °C.

[0158] The first and second phases are then combined in step (iv). Typically, this is done under agitation or stirring, for example using an Ultraturrax. This step may be done at room temperature.

[0159] Preferably, step (iv) is performed at a high stirring rate and applying a high shear force (about 2000 rpm to about 15000 rpm). This will allow for the formation of nano-size capsules with a narrow particle size distribution.

[0160] Alternatively, if the formation of larger capsules in the micrometer range is desired, the stirring may be reduced to about 500 rpm to about 1000 rpm. To obtain millimeter-size capsules, the phases may be combined by dropping without applying a shear force.

[0161] In the final step (vii), a preservative is added. Typically, this is done under agitation or stirring, for example using a magnetic stirrer. This step may be done at room temperature.

[0162] Suitable preservatives include, but are not limited to, sodium benzoate, potassium sorbate, phenoxyethanol, hydroxyacetophenone (4-HAP), hexane diol, propane diol, caprylhydroxamic acid, caprylyl glycol, and mixtures thereof.

[0163] As mentioned above, the full amount of each of the polymers may be added at once, or it may be split up into several steps.

[0164] Therefore, in an embodiment, the first polymer (alginate / alginic acid) is added in two separate steps (i) and (iii). In this optional third step, more of the first polymer with an aqueous solvent (typically the same solvent as used before) to obtain a third phase. Typically, such third phase is prepared under agitation or stirring, for example using a magnetic stirrer, and it may optionally be performed at an elevated temperature, for example at 70 °C. The addition of steps may then be performed under agitation or stirring, for example using an Ultraturrax.

[0165] 31502 PCT / 19.12.2025 Preferably, about two thirds of the first polymer is added in step (i) and about one third of the first polymer is added in step (iii).

[0166] Surprisingly, it has been found that, by adding the first polymer in two batches, the capsule shell can be reinforced, making the capsule more stable.

[0167] Optionally, the pH may be adjusted during the method of the invention, for example as an optional step (vi). Alternatively or in addition, the pH may optionally also be adjusted during or subsequently to step (ii) and / or step (vii).

[0168] Preferably, the pH is adjusted to about 6.5 to about 7, if not already in this range, to improve the skin compatibility. Alternatively, it is also possible to perform the method of the invention at a higher or lower pH, for example at a pH in the range of from about 2.5 to about 8, which allows for a greater formulation compatibility.

[0169] For example, the pH may be adjusted by adding citric acid and / or lactic acid; or by adding aminomethylpropanol and / or NaOH.

[0170] Depending on the preservative used, pH adjustment may be advantageous or even necessary, or it may be unnecessary. For example, if sodium benzoate and / or potassium sorbate are used, the pH is preferably below about 5.

[0171] Optionally, as described above for the cosmetic composition of the invention, a third polymer may be applied to the capsules of the invention.

[0172] Therefore, in an embodiment, the method of the invention further comprising the step of adding the third polymer.

[0173] The third polymer may be added as such, or it may be mixed with an aqueous solvent to prepare a fourth phase, which is then added to the other phase(s). Typically, this is done under agitation or stirring. This step may optionally be performed at an elevated temperature, for example at about 40 °C or at about 70 °C or somewhere in this range.

[0174] Preferably, the third polymer is added after step (iv) or (v).

[0175] The present invention also provides a method of improving the penetration of a cosmetic active, comprising the step of applying the cosmetic composition of the invention or the cosmetic product of the invention to human skin or hair.

[0176] 31502 PCT / 19.12.2025 The present invention also provides a method of increasing the bioaccumulation of a cosmetic active, comprising the step of applying the cosmetic composition of the invention or the cosmetic product of the invention to human skin or hair.

[0177] The present invention also provides a method of improving the dermal thickness, comprising the step of applying the cosmetic composition of the invention or the cosmetic product of the invention to human skin.

[0178] The present invention is further illustrated by means of the following non-limiting examples:

[0179] 0.05 g of calcium chloride (CaCI2) were dissolved in 32.55 g of deionized water under magnetic stirring to afford Phase 1A.

[0180] In a mechanical stirrer equipped with a marine propeller, 44.8 g of deionized water were heated to 70 °C. 0.2 g of sodium alginate (by Vogler) and subsequently 0.1 g of sodium hyaluronate (CrystalHyal by Givaudan; MW: 1-1.4 MDa) were gradually added under constant stirring until completely dissolved. The heat was turned off and the resulting transparent and slightly yellowish mixture was let cool to about 45 °C. Keeping the internal temperature between 40 °C and 50 °C, 5.2 g of hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid (PrimalHyal 300 by Givaudan; MW: 100-185 kDa) was added gradually in small portions, maintaining constant agitation until completely solubilized. 5.0 g of vitamins were added and the resulting mixture was stirred at a temperature of between 40 °C and 50 °C until everything was completely dissolved to obtain Phase 1 B.

[0181] 10 g of deionized water were heated to 70 °C while stirring. 0.1 g of sodium alginate were gradually added. The heating was turned off and stirring continued until completely dissolved. The resulting mixture was let cool to room temperature to obtain Phase 1C.

[0182] Phase 1A was placed into a vessel and stirred with an Ultraturrax. Phase 1 B was added and the resulting mixture was stirred for 5 min at 8000 to 10’000 rpm, before turning off the heat and letting the resulting mixture cool to 40 °C under stirring. Phase 1C was added and the resulting mixture was stirred for 5 min at 8000 to 10’000 rpm. The Ultraturrax was replaced by a marine propeller and 2.2 g of a preservative mixture (consisting of 1.3 g of propane diol, 0.6 g of 1 ,2-hexane diol and 0.3 g of hydroxyacetophenone) was added. The resulting mixture was stirred for 5 min. If necessary, the pH was adjusted to between 6.5 and 7.0 by adding a 10% citric acid solution.

[0183] The resulting product was a medium viscosity liquid, which was almost clear.

[0184] 31502 PCT / 19.12.2025 The capsules were analyzed using a Malvern Zetasizer Nano Series - Nano ZS90 (Malvern Instruments).

[0185] They were found to have a mean hydrodynamic diameter of 391.5 nm, with a standard deviation of 42.45 nm and a polydispersity index of 0.691 .

[0186] The capsules had a Zeta potential of -53.5 mV, with a standard deviation of 3.55 mV, and a conductivity of 0.154 mS / cm.

[0187] 0.05 g of calcium chloride (CaCh) and 0.05 g of polylysine were dissolved in 22.55 g of deionized water under magnetic stirring to afford Phase 2A.

[0188] 54.75 g of deionized water were heated to 70 °C. 0.2 g of sodium alginate (by Vogler) and subsequently 0.1 g of sodium hyaluronate (CrystalHyal by Givaudan; MW: 1-1.4 MDa) were gradually added under constant stirring until completely dissolved. The heat was turned off and the resulting transparent and slightly yellowish mixture was let cool to about 45 °C. Keeping the internal temperature between 40 °C and 50 °C, 5.2 g of hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid (PrimalHyal 300 by Givaudan; MW: 100-185 kDa) was added gradually in small portions, while stirring with an Ultraturrax. 5.0 g of vitamins were added and the resulting mixture was stirred at a temperature of between 40 °C and 50 °C until everything was completely dissolved to obtain Phase 2B.

[0189] 10 g of deionized water were heated to 70 °C while stirring. 0.1 g of sodium alginate were gradually added. The heating was turned off and stirring continued until completely dissolved to obtain Phase 2C.

[0190] Phase 2A was placed into a vessel and stirred with an Ultraturrax. Phase 2B was added and the resulting mixture was stirred for 5 min at 8000 to 10’000 rpm, before turning off the heat and letting the resulting mixture cool to 40 °C under stirring. Phase 2C was added and the resulting mixture was stirred for 5 min at 8000 to 10’000 rpm. The Ultraturrax was replaced by a marine propeller and 2.2 g of a preservative mixture (consisting of 1.3 g of propane diol, 0.6 g of 1 ,2-hexane diol and 0.3 g of hydroxyacetophenone) was added. The resulting mixture was stirred for 5 min. If necessary, the pH was adjusted to between 6.5 and 7.0 by adding a 10% citric acid solution.

[0191] The resulting product was a medium viscosity liquid, which was almost clear.

[0192] 31502 PCT / 19.12.2025 The capsules were analyzed using a Malvern Zetasizer Nano Series - Nano ZS90 (Malvern Instruments).

[0193] They were found to have a mean hydrodynamic diameter of 731 .1 nm, with a standard deviation of 76.29 nm and a polydispersity index of 0.451 .

[0194] The capsules had a Zeta potential of -51.8 mV, with a standard deviation of 3.00 mV, and a conductivity of 0.219 mS / cm.

[0195] 0.03 g of calcium citrate were dissolved in 48.57 g of deionized water under magnetic stirring to afford Phase 3A.

[0196] In a mechanical stirrer equipped with a marine propeller, 39.4 g of deionized water were heated to 70 °C. 0.3 g of sodium alginate (by Vogler) and subsequently 0.1 g of sodium hyaluronate (CrystalHyal by Givaudan; MW: 1-1.4 MDa) were gradually added under constant stirring until completely dissolved. The heat was turned off and the resulting transparent and slightly yellowish mixture was let cool to about 45 °C. to obtain Phase 3B.

[0197] 0.3 g of citric acid were dissolved in 0.3 g of deionized water under magnetic stirring to afford Phase 3C.

[0198] Phase 3A was placed into a vessel and stirred with an Ultraturrax. Phase 3B was added and the resulting mixture was stirred for 3 min at 8000 to 10’000 rpm. The Ultraturrax was replaced by a marine propeller and the mixture was cooled to about 40 °C under stirring until fully transparent. Phase 3C was added and the resulting mixture was stirred for another 10 min. If necessary, the pH was adjusted to between 6.5 and 7.0 by adding a 10% citric acid solution.

[0199] 11 g of a preservative mixture (consisting of 0.5 g of sodium benzoate, 0.5 g of potassium sorbate, and 10 g of deionized water) was added. The resulting mixture was stirred for 20 min.

[0200] The resulting product was a medium viscosity liquid, which was almost clear.

[0201] The capsules were analyzed using a Malvern Zetasizer Nano Series - Nano ZS90 (Malvern Instruments).

[0202] They were found to have a mean hydrodynamic diameter of 538.5 nm, with a standard deviation of 81 .5 nm and a polydispersity index of 0.683.

[0203] 31502 PCT / 19.12.2025 4: Simulation on Millimeter Scale

[0204] In order to visualize the capsules’ structure, larger capsules with a similar composition and an average size of 3 mm were prepared as follows:

[0205] 0.5 g of calcium chloride (CaCI2) were dissolved in 49.5 g of deionized water under magnetic stirring to afford Phase 4A.

[0206] 42.3 g of deionized water were heated to 70 °C. 0.25 g of sodium alginate (by Vogler) and subsequently 0.25 g of sodium hyaluronate (CrystalHyal by Givaudan; MW: 1-1.4 MDa) were gradually added under constant stirring until completely dissolved to obtain Phase 4B.

[0207] Phase 4B was placed in a vessel equipped with a magnetic stirrer. 5 g of vitamins was gradually added while stirring, and the resulting mixture was stirred until homogenous. 2.2 g of a preservative mixture (consisting of 1.3 g of propane diol, 0.6 g of 1 ,2-hexane diol and 0.3 g of hydroxyacetophenone) was added and the resulting mixture was stirred until fully homogenous to obtain Phase 4C.

[0208] Phase 4C was added dropwise over a period of 30 minutes to Phase 4A, making sure that a steady and controlled flow was maintained.

[0209] The resulting capsules were filtered using a sieve and rinsed thoroughly with deionized water to obtain transparent capsules of a size between 3 and 5 mm.

[0210] Microscopic images obtained from these macroscopic capsules showed that the encapsulated material (active) was homogeneously distributed within the capsules (Figures 1a and 1 b), confirming the effectiveness of the encapsulation process.

[0211] Figure 1 a shows a 40x optical microscopy of these capsules, while Figure 1 b shows a 200x optical microscopy of these capsules. The latter confirms that the capsules are core-shell capsules. ic Acid

[0212] Cell Culture

[0213] Five punches of fresh skin from the same donor (56 years old) were cut out and treated as follows (one punch per condition):

[0214] 1. Untreated

[0215] 31502 PCT / 19.12.2025 2. 1 wt% free P300 (Hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid, HA) in water

[0216] 3. 20% of empty capsules (prepared according to example 1 , but without the hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid)

[0217] 4. 20% of capsules according to example 1 (containing 5.2% of hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid)

[0218] 5. 20% of Capsule T8 (made with 5.2% of P300 and 5.2% of vitamins; so 1 % final concentration of P300 / vitamins)

[0219] The products were applied topically on the skin surface and then maintained in survival conditions by incubation at 37 °C in 5% CO2 atmosphere for 8 hours. After the incubation, the surfaces of the skin punches were gently cleaned to eliminate excess products.

[0220] Confocal Raman Measurements

[0221] The skin samples were frozen at -80 °C and then cut longitudinally using a cryotome with a thickness of 20 pm. For each explant, three tissue sections were selected and deposited on a CaF2support for Raman imaging analysis.

[0222] Five other adjacent sections of 7 pm thickness were made for an HE staining control.

[0223] Raman images had a size of Y: 10 pm / X: 100 pm with a step of 5 pm in the X- and 5 pm in the Y-direction. Each Raman image had three Y spectra and 22 X spectra (66 spectra per image).

[0224] Raman image acquisition parameters:

[0225] Laser wavelength: 660 nm

[0226] Objective: 100 X, long focal length with a numerical aperture 0.75

[0227] - Acquisition time: 30 seconds

[0228] - Accumulation: 1X

[0229] Spectral range: 400 to 3100 cm-1

[0230] Grafting: 600T

[0231] Confocal Hole: 500 pm

[0232] Slit width: 200 pm (spectral resolution 6.5 cm-1)

[0233] Step in X: 5 pm, Step in Y: 5 pm

[0234] In order to ensure reproducibility of the measurements, the Raman spectrometer was calibrated with silicon (giving a Raman peak at 520.7 cm-1) before each use. Furthermore, continuous control of the laser power at the sample level was assured.

[0235] Pre-processing of Raman images:

[0236] 31502 PCT / 19.12.2025 Elimination of aberrant spectra (fluorescence, saturation, etc.) Baseline correction

[0237] Spectral smoothing and de-spiking

[0238] Spectral normalization

[0239] Processing of spectral image analysis: The processing of corrected data maps was performed using a software based on least squares fitting method that operates in the Matlab environment. This method involves mathematical modeling of reference spectra in the overall spectral image to determine the contribution and distribution of these spectra within the image. The spectra of the untreated skin control (sample 1) and of the free hyaluronic acid (sample 2) were used as reference spectra.

[0240] Results

[0241] After preprocessing, the spectral images were reconstructed using a fitting procedure that takes into account the HA reference spectrum in comparison to the untreated skin control. Each pixel spectrum is represented by a linear combination of corresponding reference spectra. The fitting coefficients were averaged over three measurements (n=3) performed on different but adjacent skin sections.

[0242] The fitting coefficients were calculated by using spectroscopic markers specific to the hyaluronic acid: Identification of spectroscopic markers specific to the HA localized at different spectral range: 870-970, 1000-1180, 1340-1440, 1640-1680, 2800-3000 cm1.

[0243] The reconstructed spectral images permit to see the level of permeation and spatial distribution of the HA in the epidermis until 100 pm after 8 h.

[0244] For the free hyaluronic acid (sample 2) and the empty capsules (sample 3), essentially no skin penetration was observed.

[0245] By contrast, for the capsules of example 1 (sample 4) and example 2 (sample 5), the hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid exhibited a skin penetration depth of about 20 pm and 70 pm, respectively.

[0246] A semi-quantification of the skin penetration is also shown in Figures 2a and 2b:

[0247] 1. Untreated

[0248] 2. 1 wt% free P300 (Hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid, HA) in water

[0249] 3. 20% of empty capsules (prepared according to example 1 , but without the hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid)

[0250] 31502 PCT / 19.12.2025 4. 20% of capsules according to example 1 (containing 5.2% of hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid)

[0251] 5. 20% of Capsule T8 (made with 5.2% of P300 and 5.2% of vitamins; so 1 % final concentration of P300 / vitamins)

[0252] Figure 2a shows a comparison of sample 1 (untreated) vs. sample 3 (Free T7C) vs. sample 2 (Free P300) vs. sample 4 (T7C-P300).

[0253] Figure 2b shows a comparison of sample 1 (untreated) vs. sample 2 (Free P300) vs. sample 5 (T8 20%).

[0254] Conclusion

[0255] As can be seen from the above, the capsules of the invention are able to significantly increase the skin penetration and, therefore, enhance the biodisponibility of hydrophilic cosmetic actives.

[0256] Example 6: Hyaluronidase Resistance

[0257] In order to investigate the ability of the capsules of the invention to improve the stability of hydrophilic cosmetic actives, the hyaluronidase resistance of encapsulated hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid was tested in comparison to the free hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid. To this end, the samples were incubated with hyaluronidase for up to one hour, and the resulting molecular weight was determined by LC / SEC.

[0258] Materials and Methods

[0259] Sample preparation was realized as follows:

[0260] Into two 10 ml Headspace vials, about 1000.0 mg of encapsulated hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid or about 50.0 mg of free hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid, respectively, were weighed accurately and 4 ml of purified water were added. The resulting mixtures were placed into an ultrasound bath until complete dissolution and was then vortexed.

[0261] Four samples were prepared by placing 300 pl of the above two compositions into 10 ml Headspace vials and adding either 1.1 ml of purified water (unstressed condition) or a Hyaluronidase solution at 1 Ul / ml. The resulting mixtures were mixed well and kept in an oven at 55 °C for 30-60 min before letting them cool to room temperature.

[0262] For analysis, 100 pl of each of these samples were diluted with 780 pl of the mobile phase (sodium chloride / sodium phosphate buffer) and then 50 pl thereof injected into the HPLC / UV system

[0263] 31502 PCT / 19.12.2025 (Column: OH-Pak SB-806M; Elution mode: Isocratic; Column temperature: 30 °C; Flow: 0.5 ml / min; Detection wavelength: 200 nm; Run time: 40 min).

[0264] Results

[0265] As can be seen from Figure 3, the free hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid (Free Primalhyal 300) was degraded much faster than the encapsulated one (NV Primalhyal 300 LRP).

[0266] Thus, the capsules of the invention are able to protect cosmetic actives against (enzymatic) degradation.

[0267] Example 7: Effect on Dermal Thickness

[0268] This study investigated the effect of the capsules of the invention on the dermal structure over an application period of 30 days.

[0269] Ethical Considerations and Quality Control

[0270] The study was conducted in accordance with the guidelines of Good Clinical Practices, Resolution 466 / 12 and the Ethical Guidelines. Quality control was performed at each step according to ISO 9001 :2015. All data was collected and stored following the General Data Protection Law guidelines. The study followed the MEDCIN guidelines for ESG (Environmental, Social and Governance) practices. The study was carried out after ethical approval.

[0271] Participants

[0272] Three female participants (aged 36, 43 and 47, respectively), with Phototype II or II (Fitzpatrick Scale), fine or moderate wrinkles and / or expression lines, and who had not undergone aesthetic treatments with botulinum toxin and / or facial stimulators.

[0273] Materials and Methods

[0274] The capsules of the invention were formulated at a concentration of 10% in a serum.

[0275] Participants were instructed to apply a sufficient amount of the serum to cover the entire face, ensuring that the skin is clean and dry prior to the application, and to spread the serum until fully absorbed. They were told to use the serum twice a day, in the morning and at night.

[0276] 31502 PCT / 19.12.2025 The dermal structure was investigated using reflectance confocal microscopy, as non-invasive method that allows the observation of cells and skin in vivo, using VivaScope® (Lucid Vivascope 1500).

[0277] At DO, the dermatologist checked the inclusion and exclusion criteria and the integrity of the skin in the study region. Participants were then instructed to perform standardized facial washing with neutral Granado® soap and to dry their face with paper towels in a delicate way. They then remained in a room with controlled temperature and humidity (20 °C ± 2 °C; 50% ± 5% humidity) for at least 20 minutes and these conditions were maintained throughout the instrumental measurement period. Confocal reflectance microscopy was then used to perform the initial evaluation (DO) of the dermal thickness distribution.

[0278] An intermediate evaluation (D15) and a final evaluation (D30) were conducted in an analogous way after 15 and 30 days, respectively, of continuous use of the serum at home.

[0279] Results and Discussion

[0280] Periorbital recordings were performed on the right side of the participants face using the VivaScope® equipment before (DO) and after 15 days (D15) and after 30 days (D30) of continuous use of the serum containing the capsules of the invention at 10% twice a day. The records were analyzed and visualized. For example, Figure 4 shows the dermal thickness of participant 1.

[0281] The results are shown in the following table:

[0282] As can be seen from the above, all three participants showed a clear increase in dermal thickness over the testing period.

[0283] Thus, the cosmetic composition of the invention is able to improve the dermal thickness and, thus, the dermal structure.

[0284] 31502 PCT / 19.12.2025

Claims

Claims1. Cosmetic composition comprising a plurality of capsules and a preservative, said capsules comprising a core and a shell encapsulating the core, wherein the core comprises or consists of a hydrophilic cosmetic active and wherein the shell comprises or consists of a polymer network comprising a first polymer, a second polymer and a cation, wherein the first polymer is selected from the group consisting of alginic acid, alginate and mixtures thereof, wherein the second polymer is a glycosaminoglycan, and wherein the cation is selected from the group consisting of Ca2+, Mg2+, Zn2+, Cu2+, Fe2+, Fe3+, Al3+, and mixtures thereof.

2. Cosmetic composition according to claim 1 , wherein the glycosaminoglycan is selected from the group consisting of a hyaluronic acid, a hyaluronate, HE800 exopolysaccharide, and mixtures thereof.

3. Cosmetic composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the second polymer has a weight average molecular weight of about 0.5 MDa to about 2 MDa, more preferably of about 0.8 MDa to about 1.5 MDa, and most preferably of about 1 MDa to about 1.2 MDa, or wherein the second polymer has a weight average molecular weight of about 100 kDa to about 300 kDa, more preferably of about 110 kDa to about 200 kDa, and most preferably of about 120 kDa to about 160 kDa.

4. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the weight ratio of the first polymer to the second polymer is from about 1 :1 to about 100:1 , more preferably from about 2:1 to about 50:1 , still more preferably from about 5:1 to about 20:1 , and most preferably about 10:1.

5. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein a third polymer is applied to the outer surface of the shell, which third polymer preferably forms an electrostatic interaction with the first polymer and / or with the second polymer and / or with the cation.

6. Cosmetic composition according to claim 5, wherein the third polymer is selected from the group consisting of polylysine, polyepsylonlysine, polyethylenimine, cationized hyaluronic acid, cationized hyaluronate, alginic acid, gelatin, wheat protein, guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, and mixtures thereof.31502 PCT / 19.12.20257. Cosmetic composition according to claim 5 or 6, wherein the weight ratio of the first polymer to the third polymer is from about 1 :1 to about 100:1 , more preferably from about 2:1 to about 50:1 , still more preferably from about 3:1 to about 20:1 , and most preferably from about 5:1 to about 10:1 , and / or wherein the weight ratio of the second polymer to the third polymer is from about 1 :1 to about 50:1 , more preferably from about 2:1 to about 20:1 , still more preferably from about 3:1 to about 10:1 , and most preferably from about 5:1.

8. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, wherein the hydrophilic cosmetic active is selected from the group consisting of vitamins B, vitamin C, vitamin E, collagen, a peptide, a hyaluronic acid, a hyaluronic acid salt, an acetylated hyaluronic acid, an acetylated hyaluronate, a cationized hyaluronic acid, a hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid, a hydrolyzed hyaluronate, a polysaccharide, an oligosaccharide, a monosaccharide, mannose-6-phosphate, a polyphenol, an exosome, a plant extract, a prebiotic, a probiotic, a post-biotic, niacinamide, tranexamic acid, epigallocatechin gallate, epigallocatechin gallate glucoside, taxifolin, taxifolin glucoside, N-acetyl tyrosine, and mixtures thereof.

9. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8, wherein the core further comprises an antioxidant, a chelating agent, a pH stabilizer, a humectant, and / or an enzyme inhibitor.

10. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9, wherein the capsules have an average diameter of about 100 nm to about 5000 nm, more preferably of about 150 nm to about 1500 nm, and most preferably of about 200 nm to about 800 nm.

11. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 10, wherein the preservative is selected from the group consisting of sodium benzoate, potassium sorbate, hydroxyacetophenone, hexane diol, propane diol, caprylhydroxamic acid, caprylyl glycol, and mixtures thereof.

12. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 11 , further comprising a solvent, an antioxidant, an emulsifier, and / or a tensoactive.

13. Cosmetic product comprising the cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 12 and a cosmetically acceptable excipient.31502 PCT / 19.12.202514. Cosmetic product according to claim 13, wherein the cosmetic product is a skin care product or a hair care product, and in particular wherein the cosmetic product is selected from the group consisting of a serum, a cream, a lotion, a shampoo, a conditioner, and a mask.

15. Method of preparing the cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 12, comprising the steps of(i) combining the cations, optionally in the form of a salt, with an aqueous solvent to obtain a first phase;(ii) combining the first polymer with the second polymer in an aqueous solvent, optionally at an elevated temperature, and adding the hydrophilic cosmetic active to obtain a second phase;(iii) optionally combining more of the first polymer with an aqueous solvent, optionally at an elevated temperature, to obtain a third phase;(iv) adding the second phase to the first phase;(v) optionally adding the third phase to the combined first and second phase;(vi) optionally adjusting the pH to about 6.5 to about 7; and(vii) adding a preservative.

16. Method according to claim 15, wherein a cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 5 to 6 is prepared, said method further comprising the step of adding the third polymer, preferably after step (iv) or (v).

17. Method of improving the penetration of a cosmetic active and / or of increasing the bioaccumulation of a cosmetic active and / or of improving the dermal thickness, comprising the step of applying the cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 12 or the cosmetic product according to claim 13 or 14 to human skin or hair.31502 PCT / 19.12.2025

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