Universal method for making golden ratio armhole

Abstract

The present application relates to the field of clothing design, and provides a universal pattern making method of golden ratio armhole, which obtains the data of bust by actual measurement data of human body or by query of clothing size standard GBT1335, so as to satisfy pattern making of different individual body types and improve the universality of pattern making. The frame bust value can be calculated by the human body bust data measured or queried, in combination with the loose coefficient, waist-in value and adjustment value of the clothing size. Then, the clothing bust and back width can be calculated by the difference between the clothing loose value and the difference between the human body back width and the human body bust, and the six opening surface design of the clothing, the equal adjustment of each opening surface piece and the difference between the clothing back width and the clothing bust, and finally the armhole width value is obtained, and the corresponding armhole depth value and sleeve width value can be obtained according to the armhole depth threshold value and the sleeve width threshold value, so as to determine the clothing pattern size, satisfy the body types of different individuals or groups, and have high design universality.

Description

TECHNICAL FIELD

[0001] The present application relates to the field of garment design, in particular to a universal pattern making method of golden ratio armhole. BACKGROUND

[0002] The pattern making method of garment is difficult to form an efficient pattern making method in the existing operation, which is based on the actual experience of pattern makers, and it is difficult to form a pattern making efficiency in the theoretical system. And in the actual pattern making process, it is finally completed through continuous correction. Therefore, in the actual operation, the pattern making efficiency is low, and there is a problem of large size error.

[0003] The relationship between the sleeve hole size and the body size is not designed in the traditional pattern making method, which leads to no clear correlation between the sizes or corresponding design considerations. Therefore, the designed clothing needs to be repeatedly corrected, and the sleeve hole position of the made clothing cannot adapt to the human body structure, and the appearance also lacks aesthetic degree, and the wearing comfort is poor. Therefore, the traditional pattern making method increases the difficulty of clothing making, and leads to low efficiency of clothing making. SUMMARY

[0004] The purpose of the present application is to provide a universal pattern making method of golden ratio armhole, which aims to improve the problem of low design efficiency of the existing clothing pattern making method.

[0005] To achieve the above purpose, the technical scheme adopted by the present application is as follows: a universal pattern making method of golden ratio armhole, comprising the following steps:

[0006] Obtain the data X1 of the human chest circumference through human actual measurement data or according to the clothing size data query;

[0007] Obtain the clothing chest circumference X2 according to the loose coefficient d set by the clothing type, and the calculation formula is:

[0008] X2=X1×(1+d), the coefficient value of d is [-0.1, 2];

[0009] Adjust the clothing chest circumference according to the waist reduction amount n and the adjustment value u of the frame chest circumference to obtain the frame chest circumference value K of the pattern making;

[0010] The clothing waist value Y is:

[0011] Y=X2-n, n takes the value of [-8, 20] centimeters;

[0012] The frame chest circumference value K is:

[0013] K=(X2+n)+u, u takes the value of [-3, 3] centimeters;

[0014] According to the ergonomic setting adjustment loose value e, and the difference q between the human back width and the human chest width, the human chest width value M1 and the human back width value B1 are obtained, and the calculation formula is:

[0015] e is valued at [0, 6] centimeters;

[0016] B1=M1+q, B1 is the human back width, q is valued at [0, 10] centimeters;

[0017] The clothing is designed in a six-panel manner, including a left chest panel, a right chest panel, a left side panel, a left back panel, a right back panel and a right side panel, and a six-panel equal addition and subtraction method is used for adjustment, and the difference i between the clothing back width and the clothing chest width is obtained. The values of the clothing chest width M2 and the clothing back width B2 are obtained, and the calculation formula is:

[0018]

[0019] B2=M2+i, i is valued at [2, 30] centimeters;

[0020] Then, the value of the neckline width S is obtained, and the calculation formula is:

[0021]

[0022] According to the neckline depth threshold value R, the calculation formula of the neckline depth value H is:

[0023] H=R×S, R is valued at [1, 1.7];

[0024] According to the sleeve width threshold value P, the calculation formula of the sleeve width value F is:

[0025] F=P×S, P is valued at [2, 3].

[0026] Preferably, the six-panel equal addition and subtraction method adjustment further includes a reduction adjustment of the human motion adjustment coefficient g, and the calculation formula of the equal addition and subtraction value L of the clothing chest width is:

[0027] g is valued at [0.6, 1);

[0028] Then, according to the six-panel structure design, the calculation formula of the clothing chest width M2 is:

[0029]

[0030] Preferably, when the loose coefficient is a body-hugging style, d is valued at [0, 0.04]; when the loose coefficient is a fit style, d is valued at [0.1, 0.14]; and when the loose coefficient is a loose style, d is valued at [0.2, 2].

[0031] Preferably, the loose coefficient further comprises a threshold range value adjustment of a clothing wearing level coefficient t, when the clothing wearing level coefficient is an underwear level, t takes a value of [0, 0.08]; when the clothing wearing level coefficient is a shirt level, t takes a value of [0.05, 0.15]; and when the clothing wearing level coefficient is a coat level, t takes a value of [0.08, 2].

[0032] Preferably, the clothing chest circumference further comprises adjustment of an elasticity coefficient r of a clothing fabric, and a calculation formula of the clothing chest circumference value is:

[0033] X3 = (1 + r) * X2, r takes a value of [-0.04, 0.02].

[0034] Preferably, a difference between the clothing back width and the clothing chest width comprises adjustment through a clothing style, when the clothing style is a tight style or a business style, the difference i takes a value of [3, 4]; when the clothing style is a loose style, the difference i takes a value of [4, 30]; and when the clothing style is a sports style or a work style, the difference i takes a value of [5, 30].

[0035] After the above technical solution, the present application has the following advantages compared with the background art:

[0036] 1. The chest circumference data can be obtained through actual measurement data of a human body, so as to satisfy the pattern making of different individual body types and achieve high fit of the made clothing. Alternatively, the average value of a corresponding group can be obtained by querying the clothing size standard GBT1335, for example, the average human chest circumference value of Asian adult males, so that the clothing suitable for most Asian adult males can be obtained, and the universality of the pattern making is improved.

[0037] 2. The frame chest circumference value can be calculated through the human chest circumference data measured or queried, in combination with the loose coefficient, the waistline amount and the adjustment value of the clothing style. Then, the clothing chest width and the clothing back width can be calculated through the loose value of the clothing style, the difference between the human back width and the human chest width, and the six-opening design of the clothing, and the equal adjustment of each opening piece and the difference between the clothing back width and the clothing chest width, and finally the underarm width value is obtained, and the corresponding underarm depth value and sleeve width value can be obtained according to the underarm depth threshold value and the sleeve width threshold value, so that the clothing pattern size can be determined, and the body types of different individuals or groups are satisfied, and the design universality is high.

[0038] 3. The clothing pattern can be efficiently obtained through the universal pattern making method of the golden ratio sleeve underarm, the designed clothing sleeve underarm is related to the human structure in size, the comfort of wearing is satisfied, and the appearance is improved in beauty. BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF DRAWINGS

[0039] Figure 1 Flow chart of the general plate-making method of the golden ratio armhole according to the present application.

[0040] Figure 2 Plate-making diagram of the three-panel part on the left side of the six-panel structure of the general plate-making method of the golden ratio armhole according to the present application;

[0041] Figure 3 Plate-making diagram of the general plate-making method of the golden ratio armhole according to the present application.

[0042] Reference signs:

[0043] 10, frame chest value; 20, garment chest width; 30, garment back width; 40, armhole width value;

[0044] 50, armhole depth value; 60, sleeve cap value;

[0045] 70, left chest panel; 71, left side panel; 72, left back panel. DETAILED DESCRIPTION

[0046] In order to make the objectives, technical solutions and advantages of the present application clearer, the present application will be further described in detail below with reference to the accompanying drawings and embodiments. It should be understood that the specific embodiments described herein are only used to explain the present application and should not be used to limit the present application.

[0047] In addition, it should be noted that the terms "upper", "lower", "left", "right", "vertical", "horizontal", "inner", "outer", and the like are based on the orientation or positional relationship shown in the drawings and are only used to facilitate the description of the present application and simplify the description, and do not indicate or imply that the devices or elements of the present application must have a particular orientation, and therefore should not be understood as limiting the present application.

[0048] When an element is referred to as "fixed to" or "disposed on" or "provided on" another element, it can be directly on the other element or indirectly on the other element. When an element is referred to as "connected to" another element, it can be directly connected to the other element or indirectly connected to the other element.

[0049] Unless otherwise explicitly specified and limited, the terms "mounting", "connection", "connection" should be understood broadly, for example, it can be fixedly connected, or it can be detachably connected, or integrally connected; it can be mechanically connected, or it can be electrically connected; it can be directly connected, or it can be indirectly connected through an intermediate medium; it can be the internal communication of two elements or the interaction relationship between two elements. For those skilled in the art, the specific meaning of the above terms in the present application can be understood according to the specific circumstances.

[0050] EMBODIMENT

[0051] Referring to Figure 1 The embodiment provides a universal pattern making method of a golden ratio armhole, and the method comprises the following steps:

[0052] In S101, data X1 of a human body chest circumference is obtained through actual measurement data of the human body or according to garment size data query.

[0053] The data of the chest circumference can be obtained through the actual measurement data of the human body, so as to meet the pattern making of different body types and achieve high fitness of the made clothes. Alternatively, the garment size standard GBT1335 is queried to obtain the average value of the corresponding group, for example, the average human body chest circumference value of Asian adult males, so that the clothes suitable for most Asian adult males are obtained, and the universality of the pattern making is improved.

[0054] In S102, a garment chest circumference X2 is obtained according to a loose coefficient d set by a garment size, and the calculation formula is:

[0055] X2 = X1 * (1 + d), and the coefficient value of d is [-0.1, 2].

[0056] Specifically, because the patterns are different, the range value of the loose coefficient value can also be different, and the loose coefficient value is determined according to the pattern. For example, when the loose coefficient is a skin-tight type, the value of d can be [0, 0.04]; when the loose coefficient is a fit type, the value of d is [0.1, 0.14]; and when the loose coefficient is a loose type, the value of d is [0.2, 2].

[0057] Further, the value of d can be further subdivided, for example, for a partial skin-tight type, the value of d is [0.05, 0.09]; and for a partial loose type, the value of d is [0.15, 0.19]. Even if a tight type of garment is designed, the net chest circumference value of the human body can also be reduced, that is, d is a negative value, for example, the value is taken from [-0.1, 0], so that the clothes can be tightly fitted to the human body, and the tight effect is achieved.

[0058] Further, the loose coefficient in the pattern making method further comprises a garment wearing level coefficient t for threshold range value adjustment. When the garment wearing level coefficient is an underwear level, the value of t is [0, 0.08]; when the garment wearing level coefficient is a shirt level, the value of t is [0.05, 0.15]; and when the garment wearing level coefficient is an outerwear level, the value of t is [0.08, 2].

[0059] For example, if the clothing model is a shirt layer, the d value is directly adjusted by the clothing layer coefficient t to be [0.05, 0.15]. If the clothing model is a fit and shirt layer, the d value is adjusted to be [0.1, 0.14] after adjustment. The adjustment purpose of at least one clothing style is achieved by selecting different value ranges to obtain different styles of clothing, and the standardization of clothing production by pattern making method is also formed.

[0060] Further, the elastic coefficient r of the clothing fabric is adjusted in the pattern making method step, and the calculation formula of the clothing chest value is:

[0061] X3=(1+r)×X2, r is [-0.04, 0.02].

[0062] Specifically, the elastic coefficient is determined according to the elasticity of the fabric, and the larger the elastic coefficient, the larger the corresponding clothing chest value that can be reduced. Alternatively, the larger the fabric thickness, the larger the clothing chest value that can be increased. Thus, adaptive adjustment is formed to improve practicality.

[0063] Further, S103, according to the multiple pattern data measurement and / or experimental acquisition of the clothing pattern, the waist reduction amount n value, and the adjustment value u of the frame chest circumference, the frame chest circumference value K is obtained, and is represented by the letter K, and the calculation formula is:

[0064] The clothing waist value Y is:

[0065] Y=X2-n, n is [-8, 20] cm;

[0066] The frame chest circumference value K is:

[0067] K=(X2+n)+u, u is [-3, 3] cm;

[0068] The value of the waist reduction amount is determined according to the waist reduction of the upper garment, and the data is determined according to the multiple pattern data measurement and / or experimental measurement of the clothing pattern (determined by calculating the average value), so as to achieve the purpose of waist reduction without affecting the size of the chest cavity, and improve the aesthetic appearance of the clothing.

[0069] S104, according to the ergonomic set adjustment loose value e and the difference q between the human back width and the human chest width, the human chest width value M1 and the human back width value B1 are obtained, and the calculation formula is:

[0070] e is [0, 6] cm;

[0071] B1=M1+q, B1 is the human back width, q is [0, 10] cm;

[0072] Specifically, the back width of the human body is greater than the chest width of the human body, and the movement of the human body is ahead, so in the design, the width of the back position is greater than the chest width, so as to achieve comfortable wearing and meet the purpose of human body movement. The adjustment of the loose value can make the designed clothing more comfortable and will not cause compression to the chest cavity, that is, the clothes will not cause the feeling of being pressed to the chest cavity.

[0073] S105, the clothing is designed in a six-panel manner, including a left chest panel 70, a right chest panel, a left side panel 71, a left back panel 72, a right back panel, and a right side panel (as shown in the attached Figure 2 The left and right sides are symmetrical structures, so the three-panel structure of the left side is shown, and the right side structure is designed in the same way), the difference i between the clothing back width 30 and the clothing chest width 20 is obtained by adjusting the six-panel equal addition and subtraction method, and the calculation values of the clothing chest width M2 and the clothing back width B2 are obtained, and the calculation formula is:

[0074]

[0075] B 2=M2+i, i takes a value of [2, 30] centimeters;

[0076] Specifically, the six-panel design can more finely distinguish different positions of the upper garment, and after calculation by the equal addition and subtraction method, the chest width occupies one third of the size of the six-panel. In this way, the clothing chest circumference value is subtracted from the human body chest circumference value, and then the clothing addition value is obtained. Correspondingly, the clothing back width 30 is adjusted by the difference value set by the human being, and the clothing style (such as loose type or tight type, etc.) is adjusted. Therefore, according to the corresponding formula, the required size value can be quickly obtained, the design efficiency is improved, the range value adjustment can also meet the design of different styles, and the universality is improved.

[0077] Specifically, the difference between the clothing back width 30 and the clothing chest width 20 in the method step includes adjusting through the clothing style, when the clothing style is a tight style or a business style, the difference i takes a value of [3, 4]; when the clothing style is a loose style, the difference i takes a value of [4, 30]; when the clothing style is a sports style or a work style, the difference i takes a value of [5, 30]. By limiting the value range, the size of the corresponding style is designed, and the flexibility and universality of the design are increased.

[0078] Further, the method step further includes the step of designing the clothing in a six-panel structure, and adjusting the clothing chest width 20 by the reduction of the adjustment coefficient g of the human body movement, and the calculation formula of the equal addition and subtraction value L of the clothing chest width 20 is:

[0079] g takes a value of [0.6, 1).

[0080] Because of the six open design, the chest piece has two pieces, so the formula for calculating the value G of the garment chest width 20 is:

[0081]

[0082] The calculation formula of the garment chest width 20M2 is:

[0083]

[0084] Specifically, because of the characteristics of human motion, in order to improve the fit of the clothes, the reduction adjustment can eliminate the excessive transition zone of the garment edge, so that the garment is more beautiful after wearing. Then, according to the design of the six open structure, the value G of the increase is calculated, and finally the value of the garment chest width 20 is obtained after the correction of the adjustment coefficient. After such adjustment, the sleeve hole position can be moved towards the chest, so as to improve the fit of the garment, and improve the comfort and detail beauty.

[0085] Further, S106, according to the garment chest width value and the garment back width value, the sleeve hole width value 40 (as shown in Figure 2 ) can be calculated and represented by the letter S, and the specific calculation formula is:

[0086]

[0087] As shown in Figure 2 , according to the sleeve hole depth threshold R, the sleeve hole depth value 50 is obtained, and represented by the letter H, and the calculation formula is:

[0088] H = R × S, R takes the value of [1, 1.7];

[0089] As shown in Figure 3 , according to the sleeve width threshold P, the sleeve width value 60 is obtained, and represented by the letter F, and the calculation formula is:

[0090] F = P × S, P takes the value of [2, 3].

[0091] Through the above design and calculation, the sleeve hole width value 40 can be calculated. And by quantifying the structural relationship between the sleeve hole width, the sleeve hole depth and the sleeve width, the proportion range threshold is determined, the calculation of different proportion values is formed, different styles of garments can be obtained, and the purpose of comfortable and beautiful wearing is achieved. At the same time, it can also form the standardization of clothing production through the plate making method; and the design of the relationship between the garment sleeve hole and the human body structure can improve the rationality of the overall garment design, that is, it is more in line with the structure of the human body; and the proportion value between the sleeve holes can achieve the best proportion effect, that is, it can improve the comfort of the human body wearing the garment and the beauty of the garment design.

[0092] The above merely describes preferred specific embodiments of the present application, but the protection scope of the present application is not limited thereto, any changes or replacements within the technical scope disclosed by the present application, which can be easily thought by those skilled in the art, should be covered within the protection scope of the present application. Therefore, the protection scope of the present application should be subject to the protection scope of the claims.

Claims

1. A universal method of plating a golden ratio armhole, characterized by, The method comprises the following steps: Obtaining data of the chest circumference of the human body through actual measurement data of the human body or according to garment size data query ; According to the loose coefficient d set by the clothing type, the chest circumference of the clothing is obtained The calculation formula is: , the coefficient value of d is [-0.1, 2]; The clothing chest circumference is adjusted according to the waist narrowing amount n and the adjustment value u of the frame chest circumference, and a frame chest circumference value K is obtained; The clothing waist circumference value Y is: n is [-8, 20] centimeters; The frame chest circumference value K is: u is in the range [-3, 3] centimeters; The difference q between the back width of the human body and the chest width of the human body is obtained according to the ergonomic setting adjustment loose value e and the back width of the human body , and the calculation formula is: e is in the range [0, 6] centimeters; , is the width of the human back, and q is in the range [0, 10] centimeters. The clothing is designed in a six-panel manner, including a left chest panel, a right chest panel, a left side panel, a left back panel, a right back panel, and a right side panel, and is adjusted by using a six-panel equal addition and subtraction method, and a difference i between a back width of the clothing and a chest width of the clothing, to obtain a value of the chest width of the clothing and a back width of the clothing The calculation formula is: ； i is in the range [2, 30] centimeters; The dart width value S is obtained, and the calculation formula is: ； According to the dart depth threshold value R, the calculation formula of the dart depth value H is: R is [1, 1.7]; According to the sleeve width threshold value P, the calculation formula of the sleeve width value F is: P is [2, 3].

2. The universal drafting method of golden-ratio armholes as claimed in claim 1, wherein: The equal addition and subtraction method of the six surfaces further comprises the adjustment coefficient g of human body movement, and the calculation formula of the equal addition and subtraction value L of the clothing chest width is: g is valued in [0.6, 1); Based on the six-panel structure design, the chest width of the garment... The calculation formula is: 。 3. The universal drafting method of golden-ratio armholes as claimed in claim 1, wherein: When the clothing is a body-hugging type, d is [0, 0.04]; when the clothing is a fit type, d is [0.1, 0.14]; and when the clothing is a loose type, d is [0.2, 2].

4. The universal drafting method of golden-ratio armholes according to claim 1 or 3, wherein: The clothing chest circumference further comprises the adjustment of the elasticity coefficient r of the clothing fabric, and the calculation formula of the clothing chest circumference value is: r takes values in [-0.04, 0.02].

5. The universal drafting method of golden-ratio armholes as claimed in claim 1, wherein: The difference between the clothing back width and the clothing chest width comprises adjustment through the clothing style, when the clothing style is a tight type or a business type, the difference value i is [3, 4]; when the clothing style is a loose type, the difference value i is [4, 30]; and when the clothing style is a sports type or a work type, the difference value i is [5, 30].

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