Lightweight, wrinkle-resistant, all-cotton, fluorine-free, three-proof fabric and its preparation method

Abstract

This invention discloses a lightweight, wrinkled, all-cotton, fluorine-free, three-proof fabric and its preparation method, belonging to the technical field of three-proof fabrics. The invention involves spinning → weaving → singeing → cold desizing → scouring → permanent crepe treatment → mercerizing → dyeing → (stylized) crepe strengthening treatment → stretching and setting (fluorine-free three-proof auxiliary agent working solution) → pre-shrinking to obtain the lightweight, wrinkled, all-cotton, fluorine-free, three-proof fabric. The fluorine-free three-proof auxiliary agent working solution includes: a dispersion of polyurethane polymer emulsion or acrylic copolymer with paraffin; an acrylic oil-repellent agent; a pyrazole-terminated isocyanate compound dispersion; a softener; a pH adjuster to adjust the pH to 5.0–5.5; and the balance being water. The lightweight, wrinkled, all-cotton, fluorine-free, three-proof fabric prepared by this invention is environmentally friendly and safe, with good waterproof, oil-repellent, stain-resistant, and durable properties. It features a wrinkled style and comfortable feel, good breathability and moisture permeability, strength, and dimensional stability, combining aesthetics and practicality.

Description

Technical Field

[0001] This invention belongs to the field of three-proof fabric technology, specifically relating to a lightweight, wrinkle-resistant, all-cotton, fluorine-free three-proof fabric and its preparation method. Background Technology

[0002] With the continuous development of modern technology and the economy, people's demand for functional textiles has increased significantly. Three-proof finishing of textiles generally involves using physical or chemical methods to reduce the surface energy of the fabric, making it difficult for water droplets, oil droplets, and stains to spread and adhere to the fabric surface. When applied to outerwear fabrics, it not only provides waterproofing outdoors but also prevents juice, coffee, tea, soy sauce, and other stains from getting on clothes in daily life, greatly improving the aesthetics and practicality of the garment.

[0003] Most of the three-proof clothing on the market has the following characteristics: (1) Material: The clothing material is generally not pure cotton. The commonly used material is polyester fiber or nylon fiber. Although polyester fiber has high strength, is crisp and wrinkle-free and easy to wash and dry, its moisture absorption and breathability are poor. Because it does not absorb moisture and is not breathable, sweat cannot be discharged through the fiber, and it is easy to feel stuffy and uncomfortable when wearing it, especially in summer and after exercise. In terms of feel, ordinary polyester fiber does not feel as soft as natural fiber. It will have a "plastic feel" and is prone to static electricity due to friction in dry environment, attracting dust and hair. Although nylon fiber has a light texture, high elasticity and flexibility and excellent wear resistance, its moisture absorption is also average, and it is easy to deform when heated and is not sun resistant. (2) Process: Three-proof finishing can be achieved by coating or padding. The coating method refers to the uniform application of finishing agent containing film-forming substances to the fabric surface by means of scraper, roller, etc., to form a continuous and dense film. This film itself has three-proof function and physically blocks the penetration of liquid. The advantages of this process are its extremely strong initial three-proof effect and high hydrostatic pressure resistance. The disadvantages are poor washability, a stiffer fabric feel, severely impaired breathability and moisture permeability, and altered original appearance and luster. The padding method involves immersing the fabric in a finishing agent working solution, then pressing it with rollers to ensure the finishing agent evenly penetrates the interior and surface of each fiber, and finally curing it by baking. It primarily alters the surface energy of the fibers themselves. This method has minimal impact on the fabric feel, almost no or minimal impact on breathability and moisture permeability, good washability, minimal alteration to the fabric's appearance and luster, lower cost, simple process, and ease of mass production.

[0004] The three-proof finishing agents used in padding can be divided into two main categories: fluorinated finishing agents and fluorine-free finishing agents. Fluorinated finishing agents mainly consist of perfluorinated and polyfluoroalkyl substances (PFAS), typically C6 / C8 fluorocarbon polymers. They offer excellent all-around protection against water, oil, and stains. However, C8 contains PFOA / PFOS, which are persistent, bioaccumulative, and toxic, and has been largely phased out. C6 is used as a substitute, but some of it can still degrade into PFOA, and it is inherently persistent, requiring close monitoring during use. As more and more research begins to demonstrate that some PFAS are suspected of being related to cancer and endocrine disruption, there is a risk of long-term exposure for producers and consumers. To safeguard environmental security, laws and regulations both domestically and internationally, such as the EU Green Deal and California's SB54, as well as my country's goal of "striving to peak carbon emissions before 2030 and achieve carbon neutrality before 2060," strictly limit perfluorinated compound emissions and encourage the development of defluorinated green industries. Therefore, fluorine-free waterproof and oil-repellent agents are more readily accepted by textile fabric and paper packaging processing plants. The core components of fluorine-free finishing agents include hydrocarbons (paraffin wax) and resin waxes (such as silicone and polyurethane). These are readily biodegradable, pose no risk of persistent organic pollutants, and eliminate concerns about PFAS-related health risks, making them more friendly and safer for both producers and consumers. However, currently ① most fluorine-free waterproof finishing agents on the market only focus on waterproofing; fluorine-free oil and stain resistance remains a major challenge for the industry; ② their protective durability is insufficient; after multiple washes, the waterproof performance of fluorine-free products will decrease. Summary of the Invention

[0005] To overcome the shortcomings of existing technologies, this invention provides a lightweight, wrinkled, all-cotton, fluorine-free, three-proof fabric and its preparation method. The fluorine-free, three-proof finishing technology for all-cotton fabric provided by this invention simultaneously achieves excellent waterproof, oil-proof, and stain-resistant properties. This invention solves the technical problem of insufficient oil-proof performance of fluorine-free finishing agents through the synergistic effect of a composite auxiliary agent system; optimizes the finishing process to improve the durability of the three-proof properties, especially maintaining good performance even after multiple washes; and combines specific spinning processes, fabric structure, and special finishing processes to enable the pure cotton fabric to possess fluorine-free, three-proof functions while also being lightweight, high-count, high-end, and having a unique wrinkled appearance, thus combining functionality and aesthetics.

[0006] The technical solution adopted by this invention to solve its technical problem is: This invention provides a method for preparing a lightweight, wrinkle-resistant, fluorine-free, three-proof cotton fabric, comprising the following steps: S1. Long-staple cotton is selected as raw material, and 60-80S / 1 yarn is prepared through spinning process; S2. The yarn is processed into fabric through weaving, and the fabric is pretreated; the pretreatment includes singeing, cold desizing, scouring, permanent crepe treatment and mercerizing. S3. Dyeing and crease-reinforcing treatments are applied to the pre-treated fabric. S4. The fabric after the crease-reinforcing treatment is subjected to a stretching and setting process; the stretching and setting process uses a fluorine-free three-proof auxiliary agent working solution; The fluorine-free three-proof auxiliary working solution includes: Dispersions of polyurethane polymer emulsions or acrylic copolymers with paraffin (fluorine-free waterproofing agent), 50-100 g / L; Acrylic oil repellent (fluorine-free oil repellent), 20-40 g / L; Pyrazole-terminated isocyanate compound dispersion (waterproof and oil-resistant reinforcing agent), 20-30 g / L; Softener, 10-30g / L; pH adjuster, adjust pH to 5.0–5.5; The remainder is water; S5. The fabric after stretching and setting is pre-shrinked to control the warp shrinkage rate within -3% to +1%, resulting in a lightweight, wrinkled, all-cotton, fluorine-free, three-proof fabric.

[0007] Preferably, the spinning process includes the following steps: (1) Opening and cleaning cotton: The raw cotton fiber is selected from Xinjiang long-staple cotton with a fiber length of more than 33mm and a micronaire value of 3.7-4.2; (2) Carding: cylinder speed 320-340 r / min, doffer speed 6.5-6.8 r / min, licker-in speed 780-800 r / min; cylinder cover plate spacing from inlet to outlet 0.30 / 0.25 / 0.23 / 0.25 / 0.30 mm; cylinder-doffer spacing 0.15 mm; (3) Drawing: Two-pass drawing is adopted, with a total draw ratio of 6.0-6.5; output speed: 230 m / min for the first pass and 210 m / min for the last pass; (4) Roving: front roller speed 4.8-5.2 m / min, spindle speed 500-550 r / min; (5) Spinning: Roller spacing 16×30 mm, roller speed 200-210 rpm; back zone draft ratio 1.3; (6) Winding: Winding speed 1300-1400 m / min, winding tension 7.5±0.5 cN.

[0008] Preferably, the yarn specifications are as follows: average yarn strength: 220-250 cN / Tex; evenness CV: 12-15%; -50% fineness: ≤6 / km; +50% thickness: ≤70 / km; +200% neps: ≤40 / km; hairiness index H value: 3.0-5.5; yarn twist: 1000-1300 twists / meter.

[0009] Preferably, the weaving process includes sizing and weaving.

[0010] More preferably, the parameters of the sizing process are: starch 70-80 kg / m³ 3 PVA 20-30 kg / m³ 3 Solid content 10-11%; Sizing ink printing length: 38-42 m / piece; Moisture regain control: 4.5-6.0%; Sizing bath temperature: ≥90℃; Viscosity: 8-9s; Sizing machine speed: 4.5-5.0 m / min; Cylinder tension: (26±1) kN; Warp beam tension: (12±2) kN; Sizing rate control: 14-16%.

[0011] Further preferably, the weaving process adopts a plain or twill weave structure with the following parameters: warp tension: controlled at 1.5–2.5 kN; back beam position: configured to be -5–0 mm lower than the breast beam; main nozzle pressure: 0.28–0.40 MPa; auxiliary nozzle pressure and spacing: the auxiliary nozzle pressure is set to 1.1–1.3 times the main nozzle pressure, ranging from 0.32–0.50 MPa, and the auxiliary nozzle spacing is 50–70 mm; tension nozzle pressure: 0.22–0.35 MPa; heald frame opening: set to 75–90 mm; weft density: set to 350–450 threads / 10cm; loom speed: 500–700 rpm; workshop temperature and humidity: temperature controlled at 24–28℃, and relative humidity controlled at 70–75%.

[0012] Preferably, the singeing process adopts a one-inverse-two-forward singeing process, with a flame temperature of 950-1050℃ and a vehicle speed of 115-125 m / min.

[0013] Preferably, the parameters for the cold stack desizing treatment are: soda ash 40-60 g / L, hydrogen peroxide 12-15 g / L, scouring agent TF-125B (Chuanhua) or LTP-9096 (Lurui) 8-10 g / L, penetrant ERKANTOL NR 1-2 g / L; room temperature stacking time 20-24 hours; desizing rate requirement >85%.

[0014] Preferably, the parameters for the scouring treatment are as follows: the fabric is placed in a working solution containing 1-4 g / L sodium hydroxide and 1-3 g / L composite scouring agent, and treated at 90-98°C for 30-50 minutes; the composite scouring agent includes a high-efficiency penetrant, an emulsifier, and a metal ion chelating agent.

[0015] The permanent crease treatment is either chemical alkali shrinkage crease or mechanical pre-shrinkage crease.

[0016] Preferably, the parameters for the mercerizing treatment are: caustic soda concentration 18–22°Bé (approximately 22–26 g / L); machine speed 65–75 m / min; temperature 20–30°C; and roll yield 70%–80%.

[0017] Preferably, the dyeing process includes: immersion in dye liquor → metered addition of alkali solution to the dyeing vat → heat preservation and color fixing in the dyeing vat → water washing in the dyeing vat.

[0018] Preferably, the wrinkle-reinforcing treatment process includes: air patting → final water wash → loose drying / finishing; the final water wash includes gentle water wash and weak acid setting; the weak acid setting uses a weak acid water wash with pH=4.5~5.0.

[0019] More preferably, the weak acid is acetic acid.

[0020] Preferably, the stretching and setting process includes: preparing a fluorine-free three-proof additive working solution → one dip and one roll, with a roll-off rate of 70-75% → medium-temperature pre-drying at 110-120℃ for 2-3 minutes → high-temperature baking at 150-165℃ for 1-3 minutes.

[0021] Preferably, the polyurethane polymer emulsion is PHOBOTEX CWR-LAD, a fluorine-free waterproofing additive from Angco Company.

[0022] Preferably, the dispersion of the acrylic copolymer and paraffin is PHOBOTEX CWR-ACE from Argon Corporation.

[0023] Preferably, the preparation method of the acrylate-based oil repellent is as follows: ① Pre-emulsion preparation: Add SDS and deionized water to a three-necked flask and dissolve them in a water bath at 80-90℃ with stirring at 250-300 r / min; mix the four monomers SMA, MMA, BA and MAA evenly in a beaker, and slowly add them to the three-necked flask with stirring, and continue stirring for 30-50 minutes to form a uniform milky white pre-emulsion; ②Initiator solution preparation: Dissolve APS in deionized water to prepare an initiator aqueous solution; ③ Seed emulsion formation and polymerization: Add 1 / 4-1 / 5 of the pre-emulsion to a three-necked flask, heat to 80-90℃ and keep stirring; add 1 / 3-1 / 4 of the initiator aqueous solution, react for 15-20 minutes, and observe the emulsion with a bluish tint, indicating that the seed emulsion has formed; ④ Monomer addition and polymerization: The remaining preemulsion and the remaining initiator aqueous solution are added dropwise simultaneously and slowly to the three-necked flask through two constant pressure dropping funnels over 2-3 hours, while maintaining the temperature at 80±2℃ and constant stirring. ⑤ Post-treatment after heat preservation: After all the addition is completed, continue to keep the reaction at 80-90℃ for 1-2 hours to ensure complete conversion of monomer; then cool the reaction system to room temperature. ⑥ Filtration and pH adjustment: Filter the emulsion through a 200-300 mesh filter to remove any possible gel particles; while stirring, slowly add ammonia water to the filtrate to adjust the pH of the emulsion to 7.0±0.2, thus obtaining an acrylate-based oil repellent. The amounts of each raw material, by weight, are as follows: SMA: 6.0-8.0 parts; MMA: 12.0-14.0 copies; BA: 10.5-12.0 parts; MAA: 1.5-3.0 parts; APS: 0.3-0.5 copies; SDS: 0.75-1.00 copies; Deionized water: 70.0-80.0 parts; Ammonia solution: Adjust the pH to 7.0±0.2.

[0024] More preferably, the concentration of the ammonia water is 25-28 wt%.

[0025] Preferably, the pyrazole-terminated isocyanate compound dispersion is PHOBOL EXT.UXN from Argon Corporation.

[0026] Preferably, the softener is PHOBOTEX CWR-SH (an aqueous solution of modified resin) from Angco.

[0027] Preferably, the pH adjuster is 50-70 wt% acetic acid, used in an amount of 1-2 g / L.

[0028] Preferably, the parameters for the pre-shrinking treatment are: pre-shrinking machine steam pressure: 0.8~1.2 bar, rubber blanket temperature: 95~105℃, and machine speed: 35~45 m / min.

[0029] This invention provides a lightweight, wrinkled, all-cotton, fluorine-free, three-proof fabric prepared by the above-described preparation method.

[0030] This invention achieves a synergistic improvement in the functionality, style, and environmental friendliness of all-cotton fabrics through systematic process design and end-to-end fluorine-free control, specifically in the following aspects: (1) Environmental protection and health and safety Using a fluorine-free finishing agent system, the use of PFAS substances is eliminated, avoiding potential harm to production personnel, consumers and the environment. The product complies with international eco-textile standards such as OEKO-TEX STANDARD 100 and is suitable for the clothing and home textile fields where safety and environmental protection requirements are high.

[0031] (2) Excellent three-proof performance and durability By compounding fluorine-free waterproofing agents, oil-repellent agents, and reinforcing agents, a synergistic protection system is constructed, enabling the fabric to possess excellent waterproof (level 5 by water-drenching method), oil-repellent (level 4), and stain-resistant properties before washing.

[0032] After 4N×3 washes, the waterproof performance remains at level 4 or above, and the oil resistance is at level 3 or above, significantly improving the washability of the fluorine-free three-proof fabric and meeting the needs of daily use and multiple washes.

[0033] (3) Unique style and comfortable feel By combining high-count, tightly spun yarns, light mercerizing process, and air-beating wrinkling technology, the fabric achieves a natural, three-dimensional wrinkled style, combining a soft feel with a moderate structure, and its visual and tactile quality is close to that of high-end cotton fabrics.

[0034] While achieving three-proof functions, it maintains the fabric's good breathability and moisture permeability, avoiding the "plastic" feel and stuffiness problems caused by traditional three-proof finishing.

[0035] (4) Full-process process collaboration and quality control The entire process, from pretreatment to finishing, adheres to the principles of "low damage, low tension, and low fluoride risk," such as gentle cold desizing, relaxation pre-drying, and low-temperature pre-shrinking, effectively protecting fiber strength and wrinkle stability.

[0036] By controlling the pH of the fabric surface to be weakly acidic (4.5-5.5), the cross-linking effect of fluorine-free additives is optimized, thereby improving the uniformity and durability of the three-proof function.

[0037] (5) Good physical properties and applicability While maintaining its lightweight characteristics, the fabric still has good breaking strength, tearing strength and dimensional stability, and the warp shrinkage rate is controlled within -3% to +1%, making it suitable for making high-end shirts, outdoor casual wear, women's clothing and other ready-made garments.

[0038] It can protect against a variety of everyday stains, including water-based, oil-based, and sauce-based stains, enhancing the practicality and aesthetics of clothing.

[0039] (6) High production feasibility and standardization The equipment used is all commonly used in the textile industry, with clear process parameters, strong operability, and is suitable for large-scale production.

[0040] Establish a full-chain fluorine-free management system from raw material selection and process control to finished product testing, with traceability and quality consistency.

[0041] In summary, this invention not only solves the technical bottlenecks of fluorine-free three-proof fabrics in terms of oil resistance and durability, but also takes into account the natural style and wearing comfort of cotton fabrics, providing the market with a textile fabric solution that combines high-end texture, multifunctionality and green environmental protection.

[0042] The beneficial effects of this invention are: The lightweight, wrinkled, all-cotton, fluorine-free, three-proof fabric prepared by this invention is environmentally friendly and safe, waterproof, oil-proof, stain-proof, and durable. It has a wrinkled style and a comfortable feel, good breathability and moisture permeability, strength and dimensional stability, and is both beautiful and practical. Detailed Implementation

[0043] The present invention will be further described below with reference to embodiments.

[0044] The following will clearly and completely describe the concept, specific solutions, and technical effects of the present invention with reference to embodiments, so as to fully understand the purpose, features, and effects of the present invention. Obviously, the described embodiments are only a part of the embodiments of the present invention, not all of them. Other embodiments obtained by those skilled in the art based on the embodiments of the present invention without creative effort are all within the scope of protection of the present invention. The various technical features in the present invention can be combined interactively without contradicting each other.

[0045] The production process of the lightweight, wrinkle-resistant, all-cotton, fluorine-free, three-proof fabric of this invention is as follows: Spinning → Weaving → Fabric Inspection → Singeing of Greige Fabric → Cold Desizing → Scouring → (Permanent) Crinkling Treatment → Mercerizing → Dyeing → (Stylized) Crinkling Strengthening Treatment → Tensile Setting (Fluorine-Free Three-Part Auxiliary Agent Finishing) → Pre-shrinking → Finished Product Inspection.

[0046] Factors affecting the fluorine-free and three-proof properties of fabrics include: ① a fully fluorine-free and clean production process; ② the smoothness and cleanliness of the fabric surface (including yarn quality, wear on the yarn by reeds, heddles, etc. during weaving, and whether the fabric is sufficiently singed).

[0047] Key control points in the whole process of fluorine-free clean production: In the whole process of fluorine-free production, fluorine pollution is mainly hidden in three links, which must be controlled at the source: (1) Introduction of raw materials and auxiliaries: This is the most important risk. All inputs must be strictly reviewed and tested, including water quality, spinning oil, sizing agent, dyeing carrier, traditional fluorine-containing three-proof auxiliaries and their substitutes, to ensure that the whole chain meets the fluorine-free standard and establish a qualified supplier list. (2) Cross-contamination of equipment: Using equipment that has processed fluorine-containing products is a major risk point. Thorough special equipment or deep cleaning procedures must be implemented to clean the entire pipeline and dyeing vat to prevent fluorine residues from adhering and causing pollution. (3) Chemical impurities: Even if the target product is fluorine-free, some chemicals (such as acids and catalysts) may contain fluorine impurities. Technical specifications must be clearly defined with suppliers, and a fluorine-free declaration and third-party testing report must be provided, and random inspections should be carried out upon entry into the factory.

[0048] Yarn quality directly affects the three-proof (waterproof, oil-proof, and dustproof) performance of the fabric. Excessive yarn fuzz leads to more fabric fuzz. Increased wear during the weaving process also causes surface "fuzzing," increasing surface roughness. Insufficient singeing results in more fuzz throughout the fabric, leading to uneven absorption of the three-proof additives by the fibers. This makes it difficult for the additives to penetrate to other areas, resulting in insufficient cross-linking and an uneven surface film. Water and stains can then more easily penetrate the fibers, reducing the three-proof effect. Furthermore, the three-proof additives can affect the fabric's hand feel, breathability, and moisture permeability. A balance needs to be struck between these properties after the three-proof finishing process.

[0049] Therefore, this invention has strict requirements for the entire process of fluorine-free and clean production of fabrics, as well as for yarn quality, weaving process, sizing process, and singeing process.

[0050] The specific steps are as follows: (1) Yarn preparation: 60-80S / 1 compact spun yarn with a twist of 1000-1300 twists / meter; minimize yarn hairiness during yarn production while maximizing the production of high-strength yarn. Spinning process: opening and cleaning cotton → carding → drawing → roving → spinning → winding → finished yarn; ① Opening and cleaning cotton: The raw cotton fibers are selected from Xinjiang long-staple cotton with a fiber length of more than 33mm and a micronaire value of 3.7-4.2 to ensure fiber fineness and maturity.

[0051] ② Carding: Cylinder speed 320-340 r / min, doffer speed 6.5-6.8 r / min, licker-in speed 780-800 r / min; cylinder cover plate spacing (from inlet to outlet) 0.30 / 0.25 / 0.23 / 0.25 / 0.30 mm; cylinder-doffer spacing 0.15 mm; actual dry weight of sliver 15.0 g / 5m, weight deviation ≤1.8%.

[0052] ③ Combined strips: Two-stage drawing is adopted, with a total draft ratio of 6.0-6.5; output speed: 230 m / min for the first stage and 210 m / min for the last stage; following the principle of low-speed process, the fiber straightening and parallelism are controlled to improve the evenness of the yarn.

[0053] ④ Corrugated yarn: Front roller speed 4.8-5.2 m / min, spindle speed 500-550 r / min; roving tension controlled between 1.05-1.15 to prevent accidental drafting and yarn evenness deterioration.

[0054] ⑤ Fine yarn: Compact spinning process, roller spacing 16×30 mm, roller speed 200-210 rpm; back zone draft ratio 1.3, twist 1000-1300 twists / meter.

[0055] ⑥ Winding tube: The winding speed is 1300-1400 m / min, and the winding tension is 7.5±0.5 cN; the principle of "low tension, low speed, and maintaining elasticity" is followed to control hair growth.

[0056] The obtained yarn properties (taking 80s as an example): Average yarn strength: 235 cN / Tex; Stem CV: 13.5%; -50% details: ≤4 units / km; +50% thicker sections: ≤50 sections / km; +200% knots: ≤30 knots / km; Feather index (H value): 3.8; Yarn twist: 1150 twists / meter.

[0057] (2) Weaving: Sizing and weaving process settings ① Sizing process: Slurry formulation: (The water required for the sizing process needs to be tested to ensure that it does not contain fluoride.) Starch 70-80 kg / m 3 PVA 20-30 kg / m³ 3Solid content 10-11%; Sizing ink printing length: 38-42 m / piece; Moisture regain control: 4.5-6.0%; Sizing bath temperature: ≥90℃; Viscosity: 8-9 s; Sizing machine speed: 4.5-5.0 m / min; Cylinder tension: (26±1) kN; Warp beam tension: (12±2) kN; Sizing rate control: 14-16%.

[0058] ② Weaving process: Plain or twill weave is used, and the reeds and heddles of the loom are inspected regularly to ensure that there is no wear or rust, thereby reducing yarn friction and fuzzing.

[0059] The 60s-80s / 1 warp and weft yarns are woven into plain or twill fabric on an air-jet loom. Key parameter settings are as follows: Warp tension and back beam system Warp tension: Controlled between 1.5 and 2.5 kN. For 60s yarn, the upper limit (e.g., 2.0-2.5 kN) is acceptable, while for 80s yarn, the lower limit (e.g., 1.5-2.0 kN) should be preferred. This setting aims to apply the minimum necessary tension while ensuring a clear shed, protecting the strength of high-count warp yarns and the elasticity of elastic yarns, and reserving shrinkage potential for subsequent crease formation.

[0060] Back beam position: Use a back beam of equal height (±0 mm) or slightly lower than the breast beam (-5 to 0 mm). This configuration is conducive to forming an equal tension shed, making the tension of the upper and lower warp yarns similar, thereby obtaining a smooth fabric surface, clear grain protrusion, and reducing stripe defects caused by tension differences.

[0061] Latitude-pointing system (key) Main nozzle pressure: 0.28-0.40 MPa. The finer the yarn, the lower the required flight energy, and the pressure should be adjusted accordingly (0.28-0.35 MPa for 80s, 0.33-0.40 MPa for 60s) to achieve soft and reliable weft insertion.

[0062] Auxiliary nozzle pressure and spacing: The auxiliary nozzle pressure is set to 1.1-1.3 times the main nozzle pressure, ranging from 0.32 to 0.50 MPa. The auxiliary nozzle spacing is increased to 50-70 mm to create a more consistent and gentle airflow for fine weft yarns, preventing weft yarn from drifting or stopping.

[0063] Tension nozzle (tail nozzle) pressure: 0.22~0.35 MPa. Used to stabilize the end of the weft yarn flight and prevent rebound.

[0064] Opening and weft insertion Heald frame opening: Set to 75-90 mm. While ensuring a clear shed and avoiding weft insertion failure, minimize the opening to reduce warp friction and elongation.

[0065] Weft density on the machine: set to 350-450 threads / 10cm. The specific value needs to be calculated backward based on the finished product weight requirements and the estimated longitudinal shrinkage rate of the subsequent boiling, alkali shrinkage and creping processes (usually reaching 10%-20%) to ensure that the finished product weft density meets the standard.

[0066] Process speed and environment Loom speed: 500-700 rpm. Follow the principle of "high count, low speed". 60s yarn can be close to the upper limit, and 80s yarn should tend to the lower limit to ensure weaving stability and fabric quality.

[0067] Workshop temperature and humidity: Temperature is controlled at 24-28℃, and relative humidity is controlled at 70-75%. A stable high-humidity environment is conducive to maintaining the strength and flexibility of cotton yarn, reducing static electricity, and lowering the breakage rate.

[0068] (3) Fabric inspection: The fabric inspection step follows the screening standards for greige fabrics used in fluorine-free waterproof and oil-resistant finishing processes. This ensures that the interfacial energy and structural uniformity of the greige fabric as the chemical finishing substrate are the core considerations, and that surface contaminants, fabric structural defects, and basic physical properties are controlled in a coordinated manner. Specifically, this means: strictly eliminating all local contaminants that affect the free energy of the fiber surface, such as oil stains and slurry spots; strictly controlling uneven weaving structures that affect the uniformity of the finishing solution's carry-over and penetration, such as weft skew and spacing; and ensuring that the width, weight, and strength of the greige fabric remain stable within a narrow range to meet the uniformity requirements of subsequent padding, drying, and baking processes.

[0069] (4) Pretreatment process The goal of pretreatment is to achieve fabric cleanliness and facilitate subsequent processing while maximizing fiber strength. After boiling and bleaching, a creping process is performed to lay the foundation for the fabric's unique style and three-proof finishing. All water used in all processes must be tested for fluoride content.

[0070] ① Singeing: A one-back, two-forward singeing process is used, with a flame temperature of 950-1050℃ and a machine speed of 115-125 m / min. For lightweight fabrics, appropriately reducing the machine speed and temperature can ensure the singeing effect (quality requirement ≥4) while avoiding overheating and hardening of the fabric surface, which would affect the uniformity of subsequent wrinkling and the hand feel.

[0071] ② Cold-batch desizing: Continue to use the mild cold-batch process, with the following optimized parameters: soda ash 40-60 g / L (appropriately reduce the concentration to further protect the fibers); hydrogen peroxide 12-15 g / L; high-efficiency fluorine-free environmentally friendly scouring agent TF-125B (Chuanhua) or LTP-9096 (Lurui) 8-10 g / L (to ensure wetting and emulsifying capabilities); penetrant ERKANTOL NR 1-2 g / L; room temperature piling time 20-24 hours; desizing rate required >85% to ensure a clean fabric surface and no residual sizing or impurities affecting the three-proof effect.

[0072] ③ Scouring: The scouring process aims to deeply and gently remove non-cellulose impurities associated with high-count, lightweight fabric fibers, providing a highly clean, low-damage, and chemically homogeneous fiber base for subsequent fluorine-free waterproofing and oil-repellent finishing. Specifically, the fabric is placed in a working solution containing 1-4 g / L sodium hydroxide and 1-3 g / L of a composite scouring agent, and treated at 90-98°C for 30-50 minutes. The composite scouring agent includes a highly efficient penetrant, emulsifier, and metal ion chelating agent. For lightweight fabrics, gentle mechanical action (such as low-tension cycling) is employed to ensure uniform treatment and avoid abrasion.

[0073] After treatment, the fabric should meet the following key compatibility indicators: Capillary effect: 6-10 cm / 30min. For high-count, high-density plain weave structures, the capillary effect is appropriately narrowed and the upper limit of capillary effect is reduced. This is to ensure that dyes and finishing agents can be evenly wetted and penetrated, while precisely preventing the excessive penetration and migration of fluorine-free finishing agents due to the tight fabric structure and excessive capillary effect. This ensures that the effective components are efficiently enriched on the fiber surface to form a complete functional film.

[0074] Surface cleanliness and damage control: Residual wax content on the fabric surface ≤0.15% (based on dry weight of the fabric), with no discolored fibers or visible impurities adhering to it. Due to the thinness of the fabric, any localized hydrophobic spots have a more significant negative impact on the overall functionality, therefore, the cleanliness requirements are more stringent. Simultaneously, the warp and weft breaking strength retention rates are both ≥90% to accommodate subsequent processing tension and ensure the durability of the finished product.

[0075] pH value and whiteness: After thorough washing, the surface pH value of the fabric should be 7.0-8.0 to ensure suitable chemical activity. At the same time, the fabric should maintain excellent whiteness without yellowing, providing a pure color base for subsequent dyeing.

[0076] ④ Crepe treatment: The crepe treatment is a permanent crepe shaping process, performed after boiling. Its purpose is to form a basic crepe framework that can be permanently fixed by subsequent mercerizing processes. This can be achieved through any of the following methods: Method A (chemical alkali shrinkage and crease): Immerse the clean fabric after boiling in an 80-120 g / L sodium hydroxide solution and loosely pile it for 8-15 minutes under no tension or very low tension conditions, so that the fibers can fully swell in the alkali solution and shrink and crease naturally, followed by a preliminary water wash.

[0077] Method B (Mechanical Pre-shrinking and Creping): The scalded and wet fabric is fed into a mechanical pre-shrinking or extrusion creping device at an overfeed rate of 10%-25%, and squeezed under a linear pressure of 2-4 Tons to produce regular physical wrinkles in the fabric.

[0078] Regardless of the method used, the common key is to maintain low tension on the fabric during the treatment process to ensure that the resulting creases are uniform and sufficient. The fabric treated in this step then proceeds to the mercerizing process. Under the combined action of the mercerizing alkali solution and subsequent setting, the crease structure formed will be completely fixed at the cellulose molecular level, becoming the permanent stylistic framework of the fabric.

[0079] ⑤ Mercerizing: A light mercerizing process is used to enhance the adsorption capacity of cotton fibers for auxiliaries while maintaining a certain natural wrinkle feel. Caustic soda concentration 18-22°Bé (approximately 22-26 g / L); machine speed 65-75 m / min; temperature 20-30℃; pick-up rate 70%-80%. This parameter range ensures the fabric's dimensional stability and moderate luster while preventing excessive fiber swelling that could lead to loss of wrinkling potential.

[0080] (5) Dyeing and wrinkle-strengthening treatment This section is key to achieving a unique wrinkled style, combining dyeing with wrinkling treatment.

[0081] ① Dyeing: Loose dyeing is adopted, and dyeing is carried out in an overflow dyeing machine: immersion in dye liquor → metered addition of alkali solution in the dyeing vat → heat preservation and color fixing in the dyeing vat → water washing in the dyeing vat.

[0082] ② (Stylized) Wrinkle-reducing treatment: Air patting → Final wash (gentle wash, weak acid setting) → Loose drying / finishing This step, performed after dyeing, is a surface stylization treatment of fabrics that already possess a permanent basic crease. Key new step: Air-beating wrinkle treatment. Location: After dyeing and washing, while the fabric is still damp. Equipment: An air-flow crease machine or a relaxation machine equipped with high-pressure air nozzles. Process: Using high-pressure, intermittent hot airflow (60-80℃) at 0.4–0.6 MPa, the fabric surface is randomly beaten from different angles. This causes the fibers to produce natural, random three-dimensional curls and wrinkles under the action of heat, moisture, and mechanical force. Purpose: This method is gentler than pure mechanical rubbing, avoiding damage to fibers and increased fuzz due to excessive friction. It is particularly suitable for lightweight, high-count fabrics, creating a memorable, random, and lasting wrinkle feel.

[0083] The final wash process involves a thorough water wash after air patting. This is done using an overflow or gentle spray method under low tension or relaxation conditions, with the water temperature ideally between room temperature and 40°C. This step aims to remove loose dye and impurities while gently relaxing and balancing the internal stress of the fibers after patting, without substantially damaging the existing three-dimensional wrinkles. This is followed by a weak acid wash (such as acetic acid) with a pH of 4.5–5.0 to ensure the fabric's pH value remains stable in a slightly acidic environment of 4.5–5.5. This is crucial for the successful cross-linking of subsequent cationic or pH-sensitive fluorine-free waterproof and heat-resistant auxiliaries.

[0084] The specific process of loose drying is as follows: the damp fabric, after stylized wrinkling and washing, is introduced into the loose drying equipment in a tension-free or low-tension state. A tension-free mesh belt dryer or a loose hot air circulating drying room is preferred.

[0085] Key process parameters include: Drying temperature: A gradient heating method is adopted. The temperature of the inlet zone is set at 80-95℃ to avoid excessive moisture evaporation that could cause dyes or auxiliaries to migrate; the temperature of the main drying zone is maintained at 100-110℃.

[0086] Equipment status: Ensure the conveyor belt or fabric rollers operate at a consistent speed to avoid warp stretching of the fabric. The fabric is naturally relaxed and stacked or suspended in a wave-like manner within the drying chamber, allowing it to shrink freely in both the weft and warp directions.

[0087] Hot air circulation: Use gentle hot air in a vertical or staggered manner. The air speed should not be too high to prevent thin fabrics from being blown out of shape or causing new irregular deformations.

[0088] Drying endpoint: The moisture content of the fabric after drying should be controlled at 5%-8% (standard moisture regain). This moisture content can prevent the fabric from growing mold during storage and maintain a certain degree of plasticity in the fibers, which is beneficial for the gentle processing of subsequent setting processes.

[0089] This loose drying process achieves the following technical effects: Wrinkle retention: When the fabric dries in a free-shrink state, the slippage and curling between fibers caused by air beating are "frozen," thus preserving the three-dimensional wrinkle effect to the greatest extent.

[0090] Shape stability: It eliminates the potential uneven shrinkage stress caused by internal moisture in the fabric, resulting in a semi-finished product with relatively stable size and shape, which greatly reduces the mechanical tension required to correct the weft skew and width of the fabric during subsequent stretching and setting.

[0091] Laying the foundation for functional finishing: A dry, uniform, shape-stable, and stress-free base fabric ensures more uniform impregnation of the fluorine-free three-proof working fluid and reduces new fabric wrinkles caused by stress release during the pre-drying stage.

[0092] The wet wrinkles created by the stylized wrinkling process are then subjected to a final wash before entering a loose drying process. This process avoids the drawback of traditional tight dryers, which completely flatten and wrinkle the fabric due to excessive roller stretching and tension. Through loose drying, the wrinkles are initially set, and the fabric enters a low-stress state. This state is crucial for the subsequent 'stretching and setting' process, allowing the setting machine to apply only the minimum necessary tension to maintain the fabric's flatness and width. This, in turn, while baking the fluorine-free three-proof additives at high temperatures, firmly integrates the initially set three-dimensional wrinkles into the structure of the finished fabric.

[0093] (6) Fluorine-free three-proof finishing (stretching and setting) This is the core element in achieving the fluorine-free, three-proof, and wrinkle-free finish. This invention constructs a synergistic composite additive system. The fluorine-free, three-proof, and wrinkle-free finishing process does indeed have some impact on the pre-created wrinkle texture, but if the process is properly controlled, this impact can be minimized, ultimately preserving the desired style.

[0094] Fluorine-free three-proof finishing process: Prepare a fluorine-free three-proof auxiliary agent working solution → dip and roll (roll-off rate 70-75%, to ensure uniform liquid application on lightweight fabrics) → pre-dry at medium temperature of 110-120℃ (2-3 minutes) → bake at high temperature of 150-165℃ (1-3 minutes).

[0095] The fluorine-free three-proof auxiliary working solution includes: Dispersions of polyurethane polymer emulsions or acrylic copolymers with paraffin (fluorine-free waterproofing agent), 50-100 g / L; Acrylic oil repellent (fluorine-free oil repellent), 20-40 g / L; Pyrazole-terminated isocyanate compound dispersion (waterproof and oil-resistant reinforcing agent), 20-30 g / L; Softener, 10-30g / L; pH adjuster, adjust pH to 5.0–5.5; The remainder is water.

[0096] Combining different finishing agents: follow the principles of separate dilution, sequential addition, and thorough mixing.

[0097] Among them, fluorine-free waterproofing agents (dispersions of polyurethane polymer emulsions or acrylic copolymers with paraffin): Angco's fluorine-free waterproofing additives PHOBOTEX CWR-LAD (polyurethane polymer composite emulsion) or PHOBOTEX CWR-ACE (paraffin and acrylic copolymer dispersion). These two types of additives impart excellent waterproofing properties to the fabric by forming a low surface energy, hydrophobic continuous film or structure on the surface of the treated fabric.

[0098] Fluorine-free oil repellent (acrylate-based oil repellent): This is key to improving oil repellency. Its oil-repellent principle is mainly based on constructing a microstructure with lower surface energy and high repulsion of oily substances on the fiber surface. When combined with a fluorine-free water repellent, the two work synergistically, forming a more complete and dense protective layer on the fiber surface through the complementarity and superposition of their different molecular structures, thereby effectively blocking water and oil droplets.

[0099] Preparation of acrylic oil repellent: The acrylic oil repellent was synthesized using free radical emulsion polymerization. Monomers (octadecyl acrylate (SA) or octadecyl methacrylate (SMA), methyl methacrylate (MMA), butyl acrylate (BA), and methacrylic acid (MAA)), sodium dodecyl sulfate (SDS), and a portion of water were mixed to obtain a pre-emulsion. Ammonium persulfate (APS) and the remaining water were mixed to obtain an initiator aqueous solution. A portion of the pre-emulsion and a portion of the initiator aqueous solution were mixed and reacted to obtain a seed emulsion. The remaining pre-emulsion and the initiator aqueous solution were then added and reacted. After cooling and filtration, the pH of the filtrate was adjusted to 7.0 with ammonia to obtain the acrylic oil repellent (BA, APS, SDS: analytical grade, Sinopharm Shanghai Co., Ltd.; SA, SMA, MMA, MAA: analytical grade, Shanghai Maclean Biochemical Technology Co., Ltd.).

[0100] Water and oil repellent enhancer: Used to improve the durability of the three-proof effect (waterproof, oil-proof, and waterproof). We recommend PHOBOL EXT. UXN from Angco or similar pyrazole-terminated isocyanate compound dispersions. Their working principle is: under high-temperature baking conditions, the terminated isocyanate groups are unblocked and undergo cross-linking reactions with active groups (such as -hydroxyl, -amino) on the fiber surface or the active groups of other auxiliaries, forming a strong covalent bond network. This firmly "anchors" the water and oil repellent components to the fiber, significantly improving its durability.

[0101] Softener (balancing hand feel and antistatic properties): PHOBOTEX CWR-SH (an aqueous solution of modified resin) from Angco is selected. These provide a soft, smooth hand feel without affecting fabric breathability or auxiliary cross-linking. Mechanism of action: They offer excellent softness and smoothness while their chemical structure design ensures they do not affect the fabric's original breathability and are highly compatible with other functional auxiliaries in the system, without affecting their cross-linking and fixation process.

[0102] pH adjuster: 1-2 g / L of 60wt% acetic acid, to precisely adjust the pH of the working solution to 5.0-5.5.

[0103] Process Description: Low-tension padding and baking method. The padding process is the first step that easily damages the wrinkle-like texture. A uniform padding machine is preferred, as it provides more even extrusion and achieves a uniform liquid carry-over rate even at lower pressures. While ensuring a uniform liquid carry-over rate, the lowest possible padding machine pressure should be used. Liquid carry-over rate is a critical parameter; it cannot be too high. Excessive liquid carry-over rate will cause the fabric to deform under its own weight before drying, flattening wrinkles and increasing drying energy consumption and the risk of migration. A relaxed hot air oven should be used in the pre-drying process to allow the fabric to shrink freely without tension. Medium-temperature pre-drying allows auxiliaries to migrate slowly and evenly on the fibers, avoiding "migration" caused by rapid drying. The final baking conditions ensure a full reaction between the crosslinking agent and the fibers, as well as between the auxiliaries, forming a strong and durable protective film.

[0104] (7) Pre-shrink Pre-shrinking is the final crucial step in ensuring fabric dimensional stability and final style. Due to the unique wrinkling style of this product, the pre-shrinking process requires special adjustments.

[0105] Processing principle: Low-temperature relaxation pre-shrinking is adopted. The core objective is to control the warp shrinkage rate of the fabric, while protecting the existing wrinkles from being excessively pressed and lost.

[0106] Process parameters: Pre-shrink steam pressure: 0.8~1.2 bar (corresponding to a temperature range of approximately 117℃~123℃) (Low-temperature steam helps relax fibers and avoids high-temperature ironing of wrinkles. ① The heat and humidity conditions provided by steam in this temperature range are sufficient to allow the molecular chain segments of cotton fibers to gain a certain degree of mobility (above the glass transition temperature), thereby relaxing the internal stress accumulated in the fabric during the early processing, allowing the fibers to rearrange and shrink under the subsequent compression of the rubber blanket. However, at the same time, this temperature is not enough to cause the fibers to soften or plastically deform drastically, thus avoiding the complete flattening of the carefully created three-dimensional wrinkles on the fabric surface, as is the case with high-temperature ironing; ② Low-temperature steam treatment can maximize the protection of the three-dimensional feel of the natural, random three-dimensional wrinkles formed by air beating and pre-processing, and maintain the soft hand feel of the fabric, avoiding the hardening of the hand feel due to excessive heat.) Rubber blanket temperature: 95~105℃; Vehicle speed: 35~45 m / min (appropriately reduce vehicle speed to ensure a uniform and gentle finishing effect); Quality requirements: Warp shrinkage rate should be controlled within -3% to +1%. Slight negative shrinkage (i.e., slight elongation) is allowed, which helps maintain the three-dimensionality of the pleats and the softness of the fabric, and avoids stiffness caused by excessive compression and shrinkage.

[0107] (8) Finished product inspection A comprehensive inspection is conducted on the finished fabric inspection machine to ensure that the product meets the design requirements of multi-functionality and high quality.

[0108] Inspection standards: In addition to routine inspections for yarn and weave defects, the following functional and style indicators should be inspected in particular: ① Fluorine-free three-proof performance and washability; Water resistance (GB / T 4745-2012): Wet method before washing; After 4N×3 washes, the product is dried in a rotary drum. After washing 4N×3 times, hang to dry.

[0109] Oil resistance (GB / T 19977-2014): Before washing; After 4N×3 washes, the product is dried in a rotary drum. After washing 4N×3 times, hang to dry.

[0110] Stain removal ease: FZ1T 01118-2012 Wiping & washing methods: High-salt, dilute-state fermented soy sauce; In addition to the standard requirements, cotton fabrics treated with fluorine-free three-proof finishing are effective against water-based stains (fruit juice, cola, milk, coffee, etc.), oil-based stains such as vegetable oil, animal oil, and chili oil, as well as condiments / sauces such as ketchup, mustard, barbecue sauce, and peanut butter.

[0111] ② Style and feel: The feel of the fabric is evaluated by a specialist. The fabric is required to be soft yet firm, with a natural, even, and three-dimensional wrinkle effect, and to be very close to the feel of regular high-count cotton fabrics that are not treated with three-proof coating.

[0112] ③ Ecological security: Standard OEKO-TEX Standard 100 (2025); Samples can be taken and tested to ensure that no perfluorinated or polyfluoroalkyl substances (PFAS) are detected in the finished product, thus meeting the requirements for clean production.

[0113] ④ Other important physical performance requirements: Fracture strength: Determined according to GB / T 3923.2—2013 standard; Tear strength: Determined according to GB / T 3917.2-2009 standard; Moisture permeability: determined according to GB / T 12704.1-2009 (test chamber environment: 38.0℃, 90.0% relative humidity, moisture permeability time: 1h, moisture absorption method).

[0114] Example 1 A method for preparing a lightweight, wrinkle-resistant, fluorine-free, three-proof cotton fabric includes the following steps: (1) Yarn preparation: 80S / 1 compact spun yarn, twist 1150 twists / meter; ① Opening and cleaning cotton: The raw cotton fibers are selected from Xinjiang long-staple cotton with a fiber length of more than 33mm and a micronaire value of 3.9 to ensure fiber fineness and maturity.

[0115] ② Carding: The cylinder rotation speed is 330 r / min, the doffer rotation speed is 6.7 r / min, and the licker-in roller rotation speed is 790 r / min; the cylinder cover plate spacing (from inlet to outlet) is 0.30 / 0.25 / 0.23 / 0.25 / 0.30 mm; the cylinder-doffer spacing is 0.15 mm; the actual dry weight of the sliver is 15.0 g / 5 m, and the weight deviation is ≤1.8%.

[0116] ③ Combined strips: The process employs two drawing passes with a total draft ratio of 6.3; the output speed is 230 m / min for the first pass and 210 m / min for the last pass; following the principle of low-speed processing, the fiber straightening and parallelism are controlled to improve the evenness of the yarn.

[0117] ④ Corrugated yarn: The front roller speed is 5.0 m / min, and the spindle speed is 525 r / min; the roving tension is controlled at 1.10 to prevent accidental drafting and yarn evenness deterioration.

[0118] ⑤ Fine yarn: Compact spinning process, roller spacing 16×30 mm, roller speed 205 rpm; back zone draft ratio 1.3, twist 1150 twists / meter.

[0119] ⑥ Winding tube: The winding speed is 1350 m / min, and the winding tension is 7.5±0.5 cN; the principle of "low tension, low speed, and maintaining elasticity" is followed to control hair growth.

[0120] The obtained yarn properties (taking 80s as an example): Average yarn strength: 235 cN / Tex; Stem CV: 13.5%; -50% details: ≤4 units / km; +50% thicker sections: ≤50 sections / km; +200% knots: ≤30 knots / km; Feather index (H value): 3.8; Yarn twist: 1150 twists / meter.

[0121] (2) Weaving: Sizing and weaving process settings ① Sizing process: Slurry formulation: (The water required for the sizing process needs to be tested to ensure that it does not contain fluoride.) Starch 75 kg / m 3 PVA 25 kg / m 3 Solid content 10.5%; Sizing ink printing length: 40 m / piece; Moisture regain control: 5%; Sizing bath temperature: ≥90℃; Viscosity: 8-9 s; Sizing machine speed: 4.8 m / min; Cylinder tension: (26±1) kN; Warp beam tension: (12±2) kN; Sizing rate control: 15%. Fluorine-free water was used in the sizing process.

[0122] ② Weaving process: Plain weave is used, and the reeds and heddles of the loom are regularly inspected to ensure they are free from wear and rust, reducing yarn friction and fuzzing. The fabric is woven on an air-jet loom, and the parameters of the air-jet loom must adhere to the principles of "low tension, high sheath clarity, and gentle weft insertion" to protect the yarns, reduce fuzz, and obtain a fabric with a uniform structure, laying the foundation for subsequent crease treatment and three-proof finishing. Specific parameter settings: warp tension controlled at 1.5~2.0 kN, back beam position -5~0 mm lower than breast beam, main nozzle pressure: 0.28~0.35 MPa, auxiliary nozzle pressure generally within the range of 0.35~0.42 MPa, stretching nozzle pressure 0.25~0.32 MPa, auxiliary nozzle spacing increased to 60 mm, stretching nozzle (tail nozzle) pressure: 0.22~0.35 MPa, opening amount set to 75~80 mm, weft density set to 410 ends / 10cm, loom speed 600 rpm, workshop maintains stable temperature and humidity environment (temperature 25±2℃, relative humidity 70±5%).

[0123] (3) Fabric inspection: All local contaminants that affect the free energy of the fiber surface, such as oil stains and slurry spots, must be strictly removed; weaving structure unevenness that affects the uniformity of liquid carrying and penetration, such as sparse and dense lines and weft skew, must be strictly controlled; and the width, weight and strength of the fabric must be kept stable within a narrow range to meet the uniformity requirements of subsequent padding, drying and baking processes.

[0124] (4) Pretreatment process ①Singeing: The singeing process is carried out using a one-back two-forward singeing process, with a flame temperature of 1000℃ and a machine speed of 120 m / min.

[0125] ② Cold-pile desizing: Continue to use the mild cold-pile process, with the following optimized parameters: soda ash 50 g / L; hydrogen peroxide 13 g / L; high-efficiency fluorine-free environmentally friendly scouring agent TF-125B (Transchemical) 9 g / L (to ensure wetting and emulsifying capabilities); penetrant ERKANTOL NR 1.5 g / L; room temperature piling time 22 hours; desizing rate requirement >85% to ensure a clean fabric surface with no residual sizing or impurities affecting the three-proof effect.

[0126] ③ Scouring: The desized fabric is placed in a working solution containing 2.5 g / L sodium hydroxide and 2 g / L composite scouring agent, and treated at 95℃ for 45 minutes. The composite scouring agent is composed of a penetrant (sodium secondary alkyl sulfonate, 1.0 g / L), an emulsifier (fatty alcohol polyoxyethylene ether AEO-9, 0.8 g / L), a chelating agent (disodium ethylenediaminetetraacetate, 0.1 g / L), and water. After treatment, the capillary effect of the fabric is 8.5 cm / 30 min, the residual wax content on the fabric surface is 0.10%, the breaking strength retention rate is 93%, and the pH value of the fabric surface after leaving the dye bath is 7.5.

[0127] ④ Permanent crease formation: After scouring, the fabric is immersed in a 100 g / L sodium hydroxide solution, then loosely piled for 10 minutes under no tension to allow it to shrink and crease naturally, followed by thorough washing until neutral.

[0128] ⑤ Mercerizing: A light mercerizing process is used to enhance the adsorption capacity of cotton fibers for auxiliaries while maintaining a certain natural wrinkle feel. Caustic soda concentration 20°Bé; machine speed 70 m / min; temperature 25℃; pick-up rate 75%.

[0129] (5) Dyeing and wrinkle-strengthening treatment ① Dyeing: Loose dyeing is adopted, and dyeing is carried out in an overflow dyeing machine: immersion in dye liquor → metered addition of alkali solution in the dyeing vat → heat preservation and color fixing in the dyeing vat → water washing.

[0130] Reactive dyes were used to loosely dye the mercerized fabric. In an overflow dyeing machine, warm water was added at a liquor ratio of 1:10, followed by 2% (owf) of a medium-temperature reactive dye (such as Remazol series). The machine was run for 10 minutes to allow for uniform dye adsorption. Then, 70 g / L of sodium sulfate (dyeing accelerator) was added in two portions, 10 minutes apart. The temperature was raised to 60°C, and 20 g / L of soda ash (fixing alkali) was added. The mixture was kept at this temperature for 60 minutes to fix the color. After fixing, the liquor was drained, and the fabric was washed with water.

[0131] ② Wrinkle Enhancement Treatment: Key New Step: Air-beating Wrinkle Treatment Location: After dyeing and washing, while the fabric is still damp. Equipment: An airflow-type wrinkle machine or a relaxation machine equipped with high-pressure air nozzles is used. Process: High-pressure, intermittent hot airflow (70℃) at 0.5 MPa is used to randomly beat the fabric surface from different angles. This causes the fibers to produce natural, random three-dimensional curls and wrinkles under the action of heat, moisture, and mechanical force.

[0132] Ultimate wash and loose dry: After air-beating, perform a thorough water wash, and add a weak acid (such as acetic acid) water wash with pH=4.8 at the end of the process to ensure that the pH value of the fabric is stable in a slightly acidic environment of 4.6-4.8.

[0133] Loose-type drying: The washed, damp fabric is fed into a tension-free mesh belt dryer without tension. Gradual temperature increase is used: 85℃ in the inlet zone and 105℃ in the main drying zone. The hot air velocity is gentle, ensuring the fabric remains relaxed and shrinks freely on the mesh belt. The moisture content of the dried fabric is controlled at 6%.

[0134] (6) Fluorine-free three-proof finishing (stretching and setting) Fluorine-free three-proof finishing process: Prepare a fluorine-free three-proof auxiliary agent working solution → dip and roll (roll-off rate 70-75%, to ensure uniform liquid application on lightweight fabrics) → pre-dry at medium temperature of 110-120℃ (2-3 minutes) → bake at high temperature of 150-165℃ (1-3 minutes).

[0135] The working solution of the fluorine-free three-proof additive is shown in Table 1.

[0136] Combining different finishing agents: follow the principles of separate dilution, sequential addition, and thorough mixing.

[0137] The preparation method of the fluorine-free three-proof auxiliary working solution is as follows: The following procedure is based on the preparation of 100 liters of working solution, using Archroma series additives. Other brands or self-produced additives can refer to this general principle.

[0138] ①Prepare working fluid container Prepare a clean mixing container (such as a stainless steel bucket) with a capacity of at least 120 liters and a mechanical mixer.

[0139] Add approximately 70-80% of the final working fluid volume of clean water (e.g., 70-80 liters) to the tank. It is recommended to use softened or deionized water that has been tested and found to be fluoride-free to prevent calcium and magnesium ions from affecting the stability of the additives.

[0140] ②Pre-dilution separately (key step) Fluorine-free waterproofing agent (such as PHOBOTEX CWR-LAD): Take an appropriate amount (such as 5-10 liters) of the total amount of working solution of water, and in a small container, stir and dilute the required amount of fluorine-free waterproofing agent (such as 60g / L × 100L = 6kg) into a uniform dilute solution.

[0141] Fluorine-free oil repellent (self-synthesized acrylate oil repellent): In a separate container, thoroughly dilute the oil repellent (e.g., 30g / L × 100L = 3kg) with an appropriate amount of water (e.g., 3-6 liters). Homemade emulsions especially require ensuring even dilution without clumping.

[0142] Crosslinking agent (e.g., PHOBOL EXT. UXN): In a separate container, slowly add the crosslinking agent (e.g., 25 g / L × 100 L = 2.5 kg) to a small amount of water (approximately 1-2 times its volume) and stir to dilute. Note: This component is pH sensitive and should be added last to the main system and used as soon as possible.

[0143] ③ Add to the main tank in sequence and stir. Keep the water in the main tank at a medium stirring speed (to avoid excessive foaming), and slowly add the pre-diluted components in the following order: Step 1: Add the pre-diluted fluorine-free waterproofing agent. Stir for 5-10 minutes to ensure the system is homogeneous.

[0144] Step 2: Add the pre-diluted fluorine-free oil repellent. Continue stirring for 10-15 minutes to ensure the oil repellent and waterproofing agent are fully mixed.

[0145] Step 3: Add softener (such as PHOBOTEX CWR-SH, 20g / L × 100L = 2kg). Pour it in slowly and stir for 10 minutes.

[0146] Step 4 (Crucial): Add the pre-diluted crosslinking agent. While continuously stirring, slowly and in a thin stream, add the dilute crosslinking agent solution to the working solution. After addition, continue stirring thoroughly for at least 15 minutes. Technical Note: Insufficient stirring may result in uneven distribution of the crosslinking agent, affecting the durability of the three-proof effect.

[0147] Step 5: pH adjustment. While stirring continuously, slowly add a pH adjuster (such as 60% acetic acid, 1.5g / L × 100L = 150g), and monitor the pH in real time with a pH meter to precisely adjust the working solution pH to the target range of 5.0-5.5.

[0148] ④ Volume adjustment and final mixing Add water to bring the working fluid to the final target volume of 100 liters.

[0149] Set the stirrer speed to medium-high and stir continuously for 20-30 minutes to ensure that the entire system is uniformly mixed at the molecular level.

[0150] After preparation, it is recommended to let it stand for 5-10 minutes to defoam, then take a sample to test the pH value. Once it is confirmed to be qualified, it can be used in the padding process.

[0151] Prepare the fluorine-free three-proof auxiliary working solution according to the following formula: Fluorine-free waterproofing agent (PHOBOTEX CWR-LAD): 60 g / L Fluorine-free oil repellent (self-synthesized acrylate oil repellent): 30 g / L Water and oil repellent agent (Anggao PHOBOL EXT. UXN): 25 g / L Fabric softener (PHOBOTEX CWR-SH): 20 g / L pH adjuster (60wt% acetic acid): 1.5 g / L (to adjust the working solution pH to 5.2) The remainder is water.

[0152] Preparation of acrylic oil repellent (based on the preparation of approximately 100g of emulsion with a solid content of 30%): The monomer mixture (total 30.0 g) includes: Octadecyl methacrylate (SMA): 6.0 g (20.0% of the total monomer mass, providing long alkyl chain oil-repellent groups); Methyl methacrylate (MMA): 12.0 g (40.0%, providing hardness and film-forming properties); Butyl acrylate (BA): 10.5 g (35.0%, providing flexibility and adhesion); Methacrylic acid (MAA): 1.5 g (5.0%, providing hydrophilic carboxyl groups for subsequent crosslinking and stabilization).

[0153] Initiator: Ammonium persulfate (APS): 0.3 g (1.0% of the total monomer mass); Emulsifier: Sodium dodecyl sulfate (SDS): 0.75 g (2.5% of the total monomer mass); Medium: Deionized water: 70.0 g; pH adjuster: Ammonia water (25-28wt%), appropriate amount.

[0154] BA, APS, SDS: analytical grade, Sinopharm Shanghai Co., Ltd.; SMA, MMA, MAA: analytical grade, Shanghai Maclean Biotechnology Co., Ltd.

[0155] The steps are as follows: ① Preparation of pre-emulsion: Add SDS and approximately 50 g of deionized water to a three-necked flask and dissolve them in an 80°C water bath with stirring at 250 r / min. Mix the four monomers SMA, MMA, BA, and MAA thoroughly in a beaker, and slowly add them to the three-necked flask with stirring. Continue stirring for 30 minutes to form a uniform milky white pre-emulsion.

[0156] ②Initiator solution preparation: Dissolve APS in the remaining 20 g of deionized water to prepare an initiator aqueous solution.

[0157] ③ Seed emulsion formation and polymerization: Add about 1 / 5 of the pre-emulsion to a three-necked flask, heat to 80°C and keep stirring. Add about 1 / 3 of the APS initiator solution, react for 15-20 minutes, and observe the emulsion emitting a bluish glow, indicating that the seed emulsion has formed.

[0158] ④ Monomer addition and polymerization: The remaining preemulsion and remaining APS initiator solution are added dropwise to a three-necked flask simultaneously and slowly over 2 hours through two constant pressure dropping funnels, while maintaining a temperature of 80±2℃ and constant stirring.

[0159] ⑤ Post-treatment at 80°C: After all the additives have been added, continue the reaction at 80°C for 1 hour to ensure complete monomer conversion. Then cool the reaction system to room temperature.

[0160] ⑥ Filtration and pH Adjustment: Filter the emulsion through a 200-mesh filter to remove any possible gel particles. While stirring, slowly add ammonia water dropwise to the filtrate to adjust the pH of the emulsion to 7.0±0.2, thus obtaining an acrylic oil repellent emulsion with a solid content of approximately 30%.

[0161] Finishing process: One dip and one roll are used, with a roll-off rate of 72%. Then, it is pre-dried at 115℃ for 2.5 minutes in a relaxation hot air setting machine, followed by baking at 160℃ for 2 minutes. During the setting process, the width is stretched only to the required finished product size, using the minimum necessary tension.

[0162] (7) Pre-shrink Process parameters: Pre-shrinkage steam pressure: 1.0 bar (corresponding to a saturated steam temperature of approximately 120°C); Rubber blanket temperature: 100℃; Vehicle speed: 40 m / min; Quality requirements: Warp shrinkage rate should be controlled within -3% to +1%.

[0163] (8) Finished product inspection The obtained fabric was tested, and the performance data are as follows (corresponding to the data in Example 1 in Table 2): Water repellency: 5 before washing; 4-5 after 3 washes with 4N (tumble dry); 4 after 3 washes with 4N (hang dry).

[0164] Oil repellency: Grade 4 before washing; Grade 3-4 after 4N×3 washes (tumble dry); Grade 3 after 4N×3 washes (hang dry).

[0165] Stain removal efficiency (1 difficult - 5 easy): 5 before washing; 5 after 4N×3 washes (drum / hanging).

[0166] Feel (1 soft - 5 hard): Level 2.

[0167] Tear strength: 10 N in the warp direction and 9.9 N in the weft direction.

[0168] Fracture strength: 570 N in the longitudinal direction and 470 N in the latitudinal direction.

[0169] Moisture permeability: 12300 g / (m 2 •24h).

[0170] Total fluorine, perfluorine and polyfluorinated compounds: Not detected.

[0171] Overall rating: Excellent+

[0172] The test results are shown in Table 2.

[0173] Example 2-10 The preparation process of Examples 2-10 differs from that of Example 1 in that the fluorine-free three-proof additive is different, while the rest is the same as that of Example 1.

[0174] The formulation of the fluorine-free three-proof additive is shown in Table 1, and the performance of the resulting lightweight, wrinkle-resistant, all-cotton fluorine-free three-proof fabric is shown in Table 2.

[0175] Among them, the preparation of cellulose-based oil repellent: Raw materials: Microcrystalline cellulose: 5.0 g; sulfuric acid (64 wt%): 100 mL; deionized water: large quantity, for washing and dilution; sodium hydroxide solution (1 mol / L): appropriate amount, for neutralization. (Microcrystalline cellulose - Aladdin reagent; sulfuric acid - Sinopharm Chemical Reagent Co., Ltd.; sodium hydroxide solution - Sinopharm Chemical Reagent Co., Ltd.)

[0176] ① Acid hydrolysis: Mix 5.0 g of microcrystalline cellulose with 100 mL of 64% sulfuric acid in a 45℃ water bath and react for 2 hours with mechanical stirring.

[0177] ② Termination and washing: Pour the reaction solution into 10 times its volume of ice water to terminate the reaction. Collect the white precipitate by centrifugation (10,000 rpm, 15 minutes) and wash repeatedly with deionized water until the pH of the supernatant is close to neutral.

[0178] ③ Ultrasonic dispersion: The washed precipitate was redispersed in deionized water, and the solid content was adjusted to about 1.0 wt%. The precipitate was ultrasonically treated with an ultrasonic cell disruptor under ice bath conditions (600W power, 2 seconds working, 2 seconds intermittent) for 30 minutes to obtain a semi-transparent nanocellulose crystal suspension.

[0179] ④ Storage: Store the obtained suspension at 4℃ to prevent bacterial growth. Shake well before use. It can be added directly or after dilution to the working solution.

[0180] Preparation of chitosan-based oil repellent: Raw materials: Chitosan (degree of deacetylation ≥90%, medium molecular weight): 2.0 g; glacial acetic acid: appropriate amount; glycidyltrimethylammonium chloride (cationic etherifying agent): 3.0 g; isopropanol: 30 mL; sodium hydroxide solution: appropriate amount; deionized water: large amount. (Chitosan - Aladdin Reagent; Glacial acetic acid - Sinopharm Chemical Reagent Co., Ltd.; glycidyltrimethylammonium chloride - Aladdin Reagent; Isopropanol - Sinopharm Chemical Reagent Co., Ltd.)

[0181] ① Chitosan dissolution: Dissolve 2.0 g of chitosan in 100 mL of 2% (v / v) glacial acetic acid aqueous solution and stir overnight until completely dissolved.

[0182] ② Quaternization modification: Transfer the above solution to a three-necked flask and add 30 mL of isopropanol as the dispersion medium. Heat to 80℃ and slowly add 3.0 g glycidyltrimethylammonium chloride dropwise while stirring. React for 6 hours.

[0183] ③ Precipitation and purification: After the reaction is complete, cool to room temperature. Adjust the pH to 9-10 with sodium hydroxide solution to precipitate the product. Filter under vacuum and wash the precipitate with plenty of ethanol and deionized water to remove unreacted substances.

[0184] ④ Dissolution and volume adjustment: The purified precipitate is redissolved in an appropriate amount of aqueous solution containing 1% acetic acid, and the volume is adjusted with water to a total mass of 200 g to obtain a chitosan-based oil repellent solution with a solid content of about 1.0%.

[0185] Preparation of protein-based oil repellent: Ingredients: Soy protein isolate (SPI, purity >90%): 10.0 g, Lauric acid: 1.5 g, Sodium hydroxide: appropriate amount, Deionized water: 200 mL. (Soy protein isolate - Cargill commercial food ingredient supplier; Lauric acid - Sinopharm Chemical Reagent Co., Ltd.)

[0186] ① Protein dissolution: Disperse 10.0 g SPI in 200 mL of deionized water, adjust the pH to 10.0 with dilute sodium hydroxide solution, and stir in a 50℃ water bath for 2 hours to ensure complete dissolution.

[0187] ②Combined reaction: Add 1.5 g of lauric acid to the protein solution and continue stirring at 50℃ and pH 10.0 for 4 hours to allow the lauric acid to interact with the protein.

[0188] ③ Homogenization and Adjustment: After the reaction is complete, the mixture is homogenized at 10,000 rpm for 5 minutes using a high-speed disperser. Then, the pH is adjusted to about 7.0 with dilute acetic acid solution to obtain a milky white homogeneous dispersion.

[0189] ④ Storage: It is recommended to prepare and use the obtained dispersion immediately, or store it at 4°C for a short period of time. The solid content is about 5.0%.

[0190] The following products are available for purchase: Fuco fluorine-free waterproofing additive: X-701 (special modified polymer); Rudolf fluorine-free waterproofing additive: RUCO-DRYDHC (hyperbranched dendritic macromolecular compounds and polymers); Rudolf fluorine-free waterproofing finishing agent: RUCO-DRY LDC (high molecular weight polymer); Rudolf fluorine-free waterproofing finishing agent: RUCO-DRY ECO PLUS (hyperbranched and linear polymers); Fuco fluorine-free oil-repellent agent: X-8801 (acrylic acid modified); Anggao waterproofing and oil-repellent synergist: PHOBOL EXT. UXN (pyrazole-terminated isocyanate compound dispersion); Fuco waterproofing and oil-repellent special crosslinking agent: AX-101Z (modified polyurethane); Rudolf three-proof finishing synergist: RUCO-LINK XCR (block copolymer isocyanate); Anggao fluorine-free durable waterproofing finishing agent: PHOBOTEX CWR-SH (aqueous solution of modified resin); Rudolf waterproofing softener: RUCOFIN HSF (organic modified polysiloxane).

[0191] Table 1: Components of the working solution of the fluorine-free three-proof additive

[0192] Table 2: Performance of Lightweight, Wrinkled, Fluorine-Free, Three-Protection Fabric

[0193] As can be seen from Table 2, the lightweight, wrinkled, all-cotton, fluorine-free, three-proof fabrics prepared in Examples 1 and 5 have better overall performance.

[0194] The above is a detailed description of the preferred embodiments of the present invention. However, the present invention is not limited to the embodiments described. Those skilled in the art can make various equivalent modifications or substitutions without departing from the spirit of the present invention. All such equivalent modifications or substitutions are included within the scope defined by the claims of the present invention.

Claims

1. A method for preparing a lightweight, wrinkle-resistant, fluorine-free, three-proof cotton fabric, characterized in that, Includes the following steps: S1. Long-staple cotton is selected as raw material, and 60-80S / 1 yarn is prepared through spinning process; S2. The yarn is processed into fabric through weaving, and the fabric is pre-treated; the pre-treatment includes singeing, cold desizing, scouring, permanent crepe treatment and mercerizing. S3. Dyeing and crease-reinforcing treatments are applied to the pre-treated fabric. S4. The fabric after the crease-reinforcing treatment is subjected to a stretching and setting process; the stretching and setting process uses a fluorine-free three-proof auxiliary agent working solution; The fluorine-free three-proof auxiliary working solution includes: Dispersions of polyurethane polymer emulsions or acrylic copolymers with paraffin, 50-100 g / L; Acrylic oil repellent, 20-40 g / L; Pyrazole-terminated isocyanate dispersions, 20-30 g / L; Softener, 10-30g / L; pH adjuster, adjust pH to 5.0–5.5; The remainder is water; S5. The fabric after stretching and setting is pre-shrinked to control the warp shrinkage rate within -3% to +1%, resulting in a lightweight, wrinkled, all-cotton, fluorine-free, three-proof fabric.

2. The method for preparing the lightweight, wrinkled, fluorine-free, three-proof fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that, The spinning process includes the following steps: (1) Opening and cleaning cotton: The raw cotton fiber is selected from Xinjiang long-staple cotton with a fiber length of more than 33mm and a micronaire value of 3.7-4.2; (2) Carding: cylinder speed 320-340 r / min, doffer speed 6.5-6.8 r / min, licker-in speed 780-800 r / min; cylinder cover plate spacing from inlet to outlet 0.30 / 0.25 / 0.23 / 0.25 / 0.30 mm; cylinder-doffer spacing 0.15 mm; (3) Drawing: Two-pass drawing is adopted, with a total draw ratio of 6.0-6.5; output speed: 230 m / min for the first pass and 210 m / min for the last pass; (4) Roving: front roller speed 4.8-5.2 m / min, spindle speed 500-550 r / min; (5) Spinning: Roller spacing 16×30 mm, roller speed 200-210 rpm; back zone draft ratio 1.3; (6) Winding: Winding speed 1300-1400 m / min, winding tension 7.5±0.5 cN.

3. The method for preparing the lightweight, wrinkled, fluorine-free, three-proof fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that, The yarn specifications are as follows: average yarn strength: 220-250 cN / Tex; evenness CV: 12-15%; -50% fineness: ≤6 / km; +50% thickness: ≤70 / km; +200% neps: ≤40 / km; hairiness index H value: 3.0-5.5; yarn twist: 1000-1300 twists / meter.

4. The method for preparing the lightweight, wrinkled, fluorine-free, three-proof fabric of all-cotton according to claim 1, characterized in that, The weaving process includes sizing and weaving processes; The parameters for the sizing process are: starch 70-80 kg / m³ 3 PVA 20-30 kg / m³ 3 Solid content 10-11%; Sizing and printing length: 38-42 m / piece; Moisture regain control: 4.5-6.0%; Sizing bath temperature: ≥90℃; Viscosity: 8-9 s; Sizing machine speed: 4.5-5.0 m / min; cylinder tension: (26±1) kN; warp beam tension: (12±2) kN; sizing rate control: 14-16%; The weaving process employs a plain or twill weave structure with the following parameters: warp tension: controlled at 1.5–2.5 kN; back beam position: configured to be -5–0 mm lower than the breast beam; main nozzle pressure: 0.28–0.40 MPa; auxiliary nozzle pressure and spacing: auxiliary nozzle pressure is set to 1.1–1.3 times the main nozzle pressure, ranging from 0.32–0.50 MPa, and the auxiliary nozzle spacing is 50–70 mm; tension nozzle pressure: 0.22–0.35 MPa; heald frame opening: set to 75–90 mm; weft density: set to 350–450 threads / 10cm; loom speed: 500–700 rpm; workshop temperature and humidity: temperature controlled at 24–28℃, and relative humidity controlled at 70–75%.

5. The method for preparing the lightweight, wrinkled, fluorine-free, three-proof fabric of all-cotton according to claim 1, characterized in that, The singeing process adopts a one-reverse-two-positive singeing process, with a flame temperature of 950-1050℃ and a vehicle speed of 115-125 m / min. The parameters for the cold stacking desizing treatment are: soda ash 40–60 g / L, hydrogen peroxide 12–15 g / L, scouring agent TF-125B or LTP-9096 8–10 g / L, penetrant ERKANTOL NR 1–2 g / L; room temperature stacking time 20–24 hours; desizing rate requirement >85%; The scouring process is as follows: the fabric is placed in a working solution containing 1-4 g / L sodium hydroxide and 1-3 g / L composite scouring agent, and treated at 90-98℃ for 30-50 minutes; the composite scouring agent includes a high-efficiency penetrant, an emulsifier and a metal ion chelating agent. The permanent crease treatment is either chemical alkali shrinkage crease or mechanical pre-shrinkage crease. The parameters for the mercerizing treatment are: caustic soda concentration 18–22°Bé; machine speed 65–75 m / min; temperature 20–30°C; and roll-off rate 70%–80%.

6. The method for preparing the lightweight, wrinkled, fluorine-free, three-proof fabric of all-cotton according to claim 1, characterized in that, The dyeing process includes: immersion in dye liquor → metering and adding alkali solution into the dyeing vat → heat preservation and color fixing in the dyeing vat → water washing. The wrinkle-reducing treatment process includes: air patting → final water wash → loose drying / finishing; the final water wash includes gentle water wash and weak acid setting; the weak acid setting uses a weak acid water wash with pH=4.5~5.0; The weak acid is acetic acid.

7. The method for preparing the lightweight, wrinkled, all-cotton, fluorine-free, three-proof fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that, The stretching and setting process includes: preparing a fluorine-free three-proof additive working solution → one dip and one roll, with a roll-off rate of 70-75% → medium-temperature pre-drying at 110-120℃ for 2-3 minutes → high-temperature baking at 150-165℃ for 1-3 minutes.

8. The method for preparing the lightweight, wrinkled, fluorine-free, three-proof fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that, The polyurethane polymer emulsion is PHOBOTEX CWR-LAD, a fluorine-free waterproofing additive from Angco Company. The dispersion of the acrylic copolymer and paraffin is PHOBOTEX CWR-ACE from Angco. The preparation method of the acrylate-based oil repellent is as follows: ① Pre-emulsion preparation: Add SDS and deionized water to a three-necked flask and dissolve them in a water bath at 80-90℃ with stirring at 250-300 r / min; mix the four monomers SMA, MMA, BA and MAA evenly in a beaker, and slowly add them to the three-necked flask with stirring, and continue stirring for 30-50 minutes to form a uniform milky white pre-emulsion; ②Initiator solution preparation: Dissolve APS in deionized water to prepare an initiator aqueous solution; ③ Seed emulsion formation and polymerization: Add 1 / 4-1 / 5 of the pre-emulsion to a three-necked flask, heat to 80-90℃ and keep stirring; add 1 / 3-1 / 4 of the initiator aqueous solution, react for 15-20 minutes, and observe the emulsion with a bluish tint, indicating that the seed emulsion has formed; ④ Monomer addition and polymerization: The remaining preemulsion and the remaining initiator aqueous solution are added dropwise simultaneously and slowly to the three-necked flask through two constant pressure dropping funnels over 2-3 hours, while maintaining the temperature at 80±2℃ and constant stirring. ⑤ Post-treatment after heat preservation: After all the addition is completed, continue to keep the reaction at 80-90℃ for 1-2 hours to ensure complete conversion of monomer; then cool the reaction system to room temperature. ⑥ Filtration and pH adjustment: Filter the emulsion through a 200-300 mesh filter to remove any possible gel particles; while stirring, slowly add ammonia water to the filtrate to adjust the pH of the emulsion to 7.0±0.2, thus obtaining an acrylate-based oil repellent. The amounts of each raw material, by weight, are as follows: SMA: 6.0-8.0 parts; MMA: 12.0-14.0 copies; BA: 10.5-12.0 parts; MAA: 1.5-3.0 parts; APS: 0.3-0.5 copies; SDS: 0.75-1.00 copies; Deionized water: 70.0-80.0 parts; Ammonia solution: Adjust the pH to 7.0±0.2; The concentration of the ammonia solution is 25-28 wt%. The pyrazole-terminated isocyanate dispersion is PHOBOL EXT. UXN from Argon Corporation; The softener is PHOBOTEX CWR-SH from Angco. The pH adjuster is 50-70 wt% acetic acid, used at a dosage of 1-2 g / L.

9. The method for preparing the lightweight, wrinkled, fluorine-free, three-proof fabric of all-cotton according to claim 1, characterized in that, The parameters for the pre-shrinking process are: pre-shrinking machine steam pressure: 0.8–1.2 bar, rubber blanket temperature: 95–105℃, and machine speed: 35–45 m / min.

10. A lightweight, wrinkled, all-cotton, fluorine-free, three-proof fabric prepared by the preparation method according to any one of claims 1-9.

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