A cosmetic product in aerosol form comprising a packaging and dispensing assembly for a cosmetic composition.
The aerosol cosmetic product uses carbon dioxide as a propellant in a biphasic composition with a specialized nozzle for homogeneous distribution, addressing the issues of non-homogeneous application and environmental harm in existing products, achieving effective styling and reduced environmental impact.
Patent Information
- Authority / Receiving Office
- FR · FR
- Patent Type
- Applications
- Current Assignee / Owner
- LOREAL SA
- Filing Date
- 2024-12-27
- Publication Date
- 2026-07-03
AI Technical Summary
Existing aerosol cosmetic products for keratin fibers, such as hairsprays, often lack homogeneous distribution and regular application, and rely on petroleum-based gases or VOCs that are harmful to health and the environment.
Aerosol packaging and dispensing assembly using carbon dioxide as a propellant in a biphasic cosmetic composition, with a specific nozzle design for homogeneous distribution and regular application, free from petroleum-based gases or VOCs.
The solution provides a pleasant feel and good styling properties to keratin fibers, including good hold and volume without stiffening, while reducing environmental impact.
Abstract
Description
Title of the invention: Aerosol cosmetic product comprising a packaging and dispensing assembly for a cosmetic composition
[0001] The present invention relates to the field of aerosol cosmetic products comprising an aerosol assembly for conditioning and dispensing any type of cosmetic composition.
[0002] More particularly, the invention relates to the cosmetic treatment of keratin fibers, such as hair.
[0003] The distribution of a cosmetic composition on keratin fibers by an aerosol device may sometimes not be homogeneous enough, nor regular enough, which does not allow optimal treatment of keratin fibers, and in particular of hair.
[0004] Generally, an aerosol packaging and dispensing assembly for a cosmetic composition includes a container containing the cosmetic composition to be sprayed and a product dispensing valve.
[0005] It is known to use a liquefied gas as a propellant in a cosmetic composition.
[0006] Liquefied gases generally comprise hydrocarbons, such as propane, n-butane, isobutane, or mixtures thereof. Such gases are derived primarily from fossil resources, which does not meet current environmental constraints and is also harmful to the health of users.
[0007] Indeed, hydrocarbons have the disadvantage of being highly flammable and are volatile organic compounds (VOCs) that are potentially carcinogenic to humans.
[0008] Document JP2014218448 discloses a carbon dioxide-containing formulation comprising: - A formulation stored in an airtight container capable of dispensing a viscous composition containing carbon dioxide; - The formulation includes a first agent (agent A) containing an acidifier and a second agent (agent B) containing a thickener and a carbonate; - The first agent and the second agent are in a mixed state in the airtight container.
[0009] The carbonate and the acidifier react to generate carbon dioxide gas, which causes an increase in pressure inside the airtight container. When part of the formulation is dispensed out of the container, the pressure inside decreases, allowing the reaction to continue and the generation of gaseous carbon dioxide which is then included in the viscous composition in the form of bubbles.
[0010] Application EP0407308 discloses a method, a machine, and a container for packaging an aerosol-generating product using CO2 as a propellant. More specifically, it is a two-step method: an initial injection of CO2 at high pressure and a further injection of CO2 under agitation.
[0011] The WD-40 MULTI-PURPOSE product marketed by WD-40 Company is known. This product is intended for the protection of metal against rust and corrosion. It also repels moisture and lubricates surfaces, particularly metal engine mechanisms. However, this formulation contains a large quantity of heavy oils and long-chain molecules that are highly conducive to the dissolution of CO2. This explains why this type of formulation has already been used and developed with CO2.
[0012] Furthermore, the proposal of eco-responsible, environmentally friendly solutions, whose design and development take into account environmental issues, is becoming a major concern in order to contribute to meeting planetary challenges.
[0013] It is therefore essential to design products that reduce the amount of materials used and / or replace them with more environmentally friendly materials and / or use recyclable materials in order to reduce the carbon footprint of the product.
[0014] In this context, it becomes important to replace certain materials and raw materials with alternatives that have a better environmental footprint, in particular by reducing the use of petrochemical products.
[0015] The objective is to offer eco-responsible solutions, particularly those derived from green chemistry, in order to limit the environmental impact of the products used.
[0016] The present invention is part of this approach to developing overall packaging and distribution systems for the field of cosmetic products, and in particular hair styling compositions such as hairsprays.
[0017] There is therefore a need to improve the conditioning and distribution assemblies of a cosmetic composition, in particular hair, free from petroleum-based gases or VOCs as a propellant gas, while having adequate spraying characteristics to treat keratin fibers, in particular hair, under conditions similar to existing cosmetic compositions.
[0018] It is also of interest that these conditioning and distribution assemblies for a cosmetic composition, such as a hairspray, be able to distribute the cosmetic composition homogeneously and regularly, and impart good cosmetic properties to the keratin fibers, for example, for styling, washing, conditioning / care or coloring; preferably impart a pleasant feel and good styling properties to the keratin fibers, including volume, good fixing power of the keratin fibers and good persistence of the hairstyle over time.
[0019] After much research, the Applicant has developed a cosmetic product, in particular a hairspray product, in aerosol form comprising a specific assembly for the packaging and distribution of a cosmetic composition, in particular a hairspray, particular for achieving the desired spray characteristics.
[0020] The packaging and dispensing assembly for a cosmetic composition comprises:
[0021] - a container delimiting an internal volume containing a cosmetic composition;
[0022] - a lid connected to the container closing an opening of said container;
[0023] - a dispensing valve mounted in the container, integral with the lid and comprising a valve body defining a chamber, a valve stem movable axially within the chamber and extending axially out of the valve body, a nozzle extending axially from the valve body into the container, a spring mounted between the valve body and the valve stem, the valve stem comprising an axial distribution channel and at least one nozzle orifice opening onto the outer surface of said stem; and
[0024] - a distribution head comprising an actuator mounted on the valve stem for to allow the valve to be actuation and the product contained in the container to be distributed, the actuator comprising a nozzle connected to the outlet of the rod by a conduit for distributing the product contained in the container.
[0025] The nozzle comprises a vortex chamber connected to the conduit, at least one radial channel and an outlet orifice connected to said radial channel and having a diameter between 0.15mm and 0.41mm, preferably equal to 0.23mm.
[0026] The nozzle is defined by a total passage area through the channels of between 0.1mm2 and 0.3mm2, said total passage area through the channels being equal to the multiplication of the number of channels, the depth of the channels and the minimum width of the channels.
[0027] The depth of the channels is between 0.05mm and 0.6mm.
[0028] The minimum width of the channels is between 0.15mm and 0.45mm.
[0029] The total passage area corresponds to the smallest area through which the fluid must pass before being rotated towards the orifice.
[0030] Advantageously, the vortex chamber has a diameter between 0.5 mm and 1.5 mm, preferably equal to 1 mm, and the nozzle has an atomization coefficient between 0.5 and 1, preferably equal to 0.75, the coefficient atomization being the ratio between the total passage area through the channels with the product of the diameter of the vortex chamber by the diameter of the nozzle outlet orifice.
[0031] For example, the nozzle orifice has a diameter between 0.25mm and 0.61mm, preferably equal to 0.33mm, and a total surface area between 0.196mm2 and 1.169mm2, preferably equal to 0.342mm2.
[0032] For example, the nozzle includes an opening with a diameter between 0.25mm and 2.5mm, preferably equal to 0.33mm, and the surface area of the nozzle is between 0.05mm2 and 4.91mm2, preferably equal to 0.09mm2.
[0033] Advantageously, the number of radial channels is between 1 and 6, preferably equal to 3.
[0034] For example, radial channels have a conical or straight shape.
[0035] Preferably, the valve stem comprises two jet orifices.
[0036] According to a preferred embodiment, the valve body does not include an additional gas port. An "additional gas port" is understood to mean a hole made in the thickness of the wall of the valve body and communicating with both the chamber and the internal volume of the container.
[0037] According to one embodiment, the distribution valve includes a sealing washer interposed between the valve body and the cover and configured to close the nozzle orifice in a closed position.
[0038] The aerosol cosmetic product according to the invention comprises a biphasic cosmetic composition, preferably for styling keratin fibers, comprising a liquid phase and a gaseous phase, the biphasic composition comprising: (i) one or more cosmetic agents in the liquid phase, (ii) one or more solvents in the liquid phase, selected from water, organic solvents, and mixtures thereof, and (iii) a propellant in both the liquid and gaseous phases, said propellant comprising at least 50% by weight of carbon dioxide, relative to the total weight of the propellant included in said biphasic cosmetic composition, and the total carbon dioxide content in the biphasic cosmetic composition being in the range of 2% to 10% by weight, preferably 5% to 7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the biphasic cosmetic composition.
[0039] Such an aerosol cosmetic product is free of petroleum-based gases or VOCs, while having adequate spray characteristics to shape keratin fibers, in particular hair, under conditions similar to existing hairspray products.
[0040] It has also been observed that when the cosmetic composition of the aerosol cosmetic product according to the invention is a styling composition, the invention imparts a particularly pleasant feel to keratin fibers such as hair, as well as very good styling properties. In particular, the composition allows for good hold of the hair over time, both in wet and dry conditions, while adding volume to the hair without stiffening the style. In the case of curly hair, the styling composition provides good curl definition. Specifically, the styling composition delivered by the aerosol product according to the invention gives the hairstyle a natural appearance and allows for fluid movement. It also provides a particularly soft and pleasant feel to the hair.
[0041] The invention further relates to methods for manufacturing a cosmetic product in aerosol form according to the invention, comprising at least the following steps, in order: a) a step of adding a cosmetic composition to the packaging and dispensing assembly, and b) a pressurization step for said conditioning and distribution assembly.
[0042] The invention also relates to a method for treating keratin fibers comprising at least one step of spraying said keratin fibers with a cosmetic composition, using the conditioning and distribution assembly.
[0043] The invention also relates to the use of the aerosol cosmetic product according to the invention for the treatment of keratin fibers, preferably for shaping, washing, caring / conditioning or coloring keratin fibers, such as hair.
[0044] The present invention will be better understood upon study of the detailed description of embodiments, taken by way of non-limiting examples and illustrated by the accompanying drawings, in which:
[0045] [Fig.1] is a schematic view of an aerosol assembly for conditioning and dispensing a cosmetic composition according to an embodiment of the invention;
[0046] [Fig.2] is a cross-sectional view of the entire [Fig.l];
[0047] [Fig.2A] is a detailed view of the nozzle of the entire [Fig.2];
[0048] [Fig.3A] is a cross-sectional view of the nozzle assembly [Fig. 2A], illustrating conical channels; and
[0049] [Fig.3B] is a cross-sectional view of the nozzle of the entire [Fig.2A], illustrating straight channels.
[0050] In the following description, and unless otherwise indicated: * The terms "longitudinal", "transverse", "vertical", "front", "rear", "left" and "right" are defined according to the usual orthogonal coordinate system of applicators, shown in the drawings, which includes:
[0051] - a longitudinal axis X, horizontal and oriented from front to back on the [Fig. 1];
[0052] - a horizontal transverse axis Y, perpendicular to the longitudinal axis X and oriented of right to left on the [Fig.l];
[0053] - a vertical axis Z, orthogonal to the longitudinal and transverse axes X and Y and directed from bottom to top.
[0054] * The term "thickness" is understood in the longitudinal direction X, the term " "Length" is understood in the transverse Y direction and the term "height" is understood in the vertical Z direction.
[0055] * The terms "upper" and "lower" refer to the upper part and at the bottom of the figures, in the assembled position of the conditioning and distribution unit.
[0056] * The expression "at least one" is equivalent to the expression "one or more" and may can be substituted for it; the expression "between" is equivalent to the expression "ranging from" and can be substituted for it, and implies that the bounds are included. * By the expression "greater than" and respectively the expression "less than" in the meaning of the present invention, a closed interval is meant, and therefore the bounds are included. * For the purposes of this application, "keratin fibers" refers particularly to human keratin fibers such as hair, eyelashes, eyebrows, and body hair, preferably hair, eyebrows and eyelashes, and even more preferably hair. * For the purposes of this invention, "hair" means the hair on the head. This term does not include body hair, eyebrows, or eyelashes. * For the purposes of this invention, "polyoxyalkylated compound" means a compound comprising at least one polyoxyethylene and / or polyoxypropylene and / or polyglycerol group; preferably, the number of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide groups may range from 1 to 100, and the number of glycerol groups may range from 2 to 30. * For the purposes of this invention, "non-polyoxyalkylated compound" means a compound not comprising multiple polyoxyethylene and / or polyoxypropylene and / or polyglycerol groups.
[0057] An example of an aerosol assembly for conditioning and dispensing a cosmetic composition is illustrated in [Fig.1] and bears the general reference 1.
[0058] The aerosol packaging and distribution assembly 1 includes a container 10 or reservoir delimiting an internal volume 1 containing a cosmetic composition P to be sprayed on the hair of a user, in particular a cosmetic composition for styling keratin fibers.
[0059] The internal volume 1 of the container 10 is between 70mL and 600mL, preferably between 140mL and 310ml, the volume being measured to the brim.
[0060] The packaging assembly 1 further includes a lid 20 for closing the container 10, a dispensing valve 30 mounted in the container 10 for dispensing the product contained in the container 10 and a dispensing head 40 mounted on the valve 30.
[0061] In the illustrated embodiment, the valve 30 is supported by the cover 20.
[0062] The lid 20 is connected to the storage container 10 by external crimping or internal. Alternatively, it could be provided that the lid 20 is connected to the container 10 in any other way, for example by screwing.
[0063] Without limitation, the container 10 comprises a body 11 having a closed lower end 11b forming a bottom and an open upper end 11b, opposite the lower end 11b, forming a neck 12 having an opening 12a.
[0064] The neck 12 is connected to the body 11 by a junction 13 in order to be radially offset inwards with respect to said body 11.
[0065] It could also be envisaged that the collar 12 be connected to the body 11 by a shoulder.
[0066] By "shoulder" is meant any surface substantially normal to the axis of elevation of a cylindrical part resulting from a sudden change in diameter.
[0067] The distribution valve 30 extends partly inside the container 10.
[0068] The distribution valve 30 comprises a valve body 31 and a valve stem 32 movable axially relative to the valve body 31. The valve stem 32 extends axially outward from the valve body 31.
[0069] The rod 32 comprises an internal diameter between 3.3mm and 4mm, preferably equal to 4mm.
[0070] The valve body 31 defines a chamber 33 in which the valve stem 32 is engaged.
[0071] The valve stem 32, with axis Z-Z', is able to move in the chamber 33 between a valve closed position illustrated in [Fig.2] and an open position.
[0072] The valve stem 32 has a product inlet 32a and a product outlet 32b.
[0073] The distribution valve 30 includes a sealing washer 34 interposed between the valve body 31 and the cover 20.
[0074] The valve body 31 extends axially on the side opposite the sealing washer 34, by means of an end piece 35 in communication with the chamber 33 and on which a dip tube 36 is provided to be fixed.
[0075] The nozzle 35 includes an opening with a diameter between 0.25mm and 2.5mm, preferably equal to 0.33mm.
[0076] The surface area of the tip 35 is between 0.05mm2 and 4.91mm2, preferably equal to 0.09mm2.
[0077] This opening allows control of the flow stability, which also impacts the spraying performance.
[0078] An axial distribution channel 37 is provided in the valve stem 32 and communicates, at its lower end, with a radial channel 37a or jet orifice opening onto the outer surface of said stem. The distribution channel 37 opens onto the upper front face 32b of the valve stem 32.
[0079] In the closed position of the valve, the sealing washer 34 blocks the radial channel 37a so that it does not communicate with the chamber 33.
[0080] The nozzle orifice 37a has a diameter between 0.25mm and 0.61mm, preferably equal to 0.33mm.
[0081] The number of nozzle orifices 37a is between 1 and 2. In the case where there are two nozzle orifices, it could be provided that they are arranged at 180° to each other.
[0082] The total surface area SGI of the nozzle orifice 37a is between 0.196 mm² and 1.169 mm², preferably equal to 0.342 mm². The total surface area of the nozzle orifice is called the outlet area of the nozzle orifice 37a.
[0083] The nozzle orifice 37a restricts the flow of the product outside the valve, which allows control of the flow rate of the product.
[0084] The distribution valve 30 is equipped with a spring 38 mounted between the valve body 31 and the valve stem 32 to hold said stem in the closed position.
[0085] The valve body 31 does not include an additional gas port made in the thickness of the wall of the valve body 31 and communicating with both the chamber 33 and the internal volume 1 of the container 10.
[0086] The additional gas outlet allows gas to be added to the product contained in the container 10. However, the presence of an additional gas outlet is not compatible with the use of carbon dioxide and the nozzle used.
[0087] An additional gas inlet could be added to the valve body 31, subject to modifying certain characteristics of the nozzle.
[0088] The cover 20 includes an upper end wall 21, an external mounting skirt 22 and an intermediate skirt 23 extending said wall 21.
[0089] The cover 20 further includes a lower wall 24 extending radially from a lower end of the internal fixing skirt 23.
[0090] The external mounting skirt 22 extends axially along a large diameter edge of the upper end wall 21.
[0091] The upper end wall 21 comes axially to rest against the upper end of the container 10.
[0092] The external mounting skirt 22 of the cover is centered on the Z-Z' axis.
[0093] The external mounting skirt 22 has a circular cross-section.
[0094] The cover 20 further includes an internal annular fixing skirt 25 allowing the fixing of the distribution valve 30 onto said cover 20.
[0095] The internal fixing skirt 25 extends axially from a small diameter end of the lower wall 24.
[0096] The internal fixing skirt 25 is centered on the Z-Z' axis and is radially surrounded by the intermediate skirt 23 and by the external mounting skirt 22.
[0097] In the illustrated embodiment, the fixing of the distribution valve 30 inside the internal fixing skirt 25 of the cover is carried out by riveting.
[0098] The dispensing head 40 includes an actuator 41, for example a push button, mounted on the valve stem 32 to allow the valve 30 to be actuation and the product contained in the container 10 to be dispensed.
[0099] The actuator 41 is designed to allow the container 10 to open under pressure.
[0100] The spring 38 fitted to the distribution valve 30 allows the said rod to be held 32 in the closed position in the absence of activation of the actuator 41 by the user.
[0101] The actuator 41 includes a nozzle 42 or insert connected to the outlet 32b of the rod 32 by a conduit 43 for distributing the product contained in the container 10.
[0102] The nozzle 42 is in fluidic communication with the chamber 33 of the valve 30.
[0103] Nozzle 42 is of the swirl type.
[0104] The nozzle 42 includes for this purpose a vortex chamber 44 connected to the conduit 43.
[0105] The vortex chamber 44 has a diameter Ds between 0.5mm and 1.5mm, preferably equal to 1mm.
[0106] The vortex chamber 44 has a depth Ps between 0.1mm and 0.5mm, preferably equal to 0.25mm.
[0107] By “depth” we mean the dimension in the transverse direction Y, perpendicular to the vertical direction Z.
[0108] The nozzle 42 further comprises a plurality of radial channels 45 relative to the extension axis of the nozzle 42 and an outlet orifice 46 through which the product is evacuated.
[0109] The radial channels 45 are arranged radially around the vortex chamber 44 and extending along the transverse axis between said vortex chamber 44 and the outlet orifice 46.
[0110] In other words, the radial channels 45 allow fluidic communication between the outlet port 46 and the vortex chamber, which is supplied by the valve stem 32.
[0111] The number of radial channels 45 is between 1 and 6, preferably equal to 3.
[0112] As illustrated in [Fig. 3A], the shape of the radial channels 45 is conical. Alternatively, the shape of the radial channels 45 could be straight, as seen in [Fig.3B].
[0113] The diameter Do of the outlet orifice 46 is between 0.15mm and 0.41mm, preferably equal to 0.23mm.
[0114] The depth Po of the outlet orifice 46 is between 0.2mm and 1mm.
[0115] The total cross-section or passage area through the Ac channels is between 0.1mm2 and 0.3mm2, preferably equal to 0.1725mm2.
[0116] The total passage area through the Ac channels corresponds to the multiplication of the number of channels, the depth of the channels 45, here corresponding to the depth Ps of the vortex chamber 44 and the minimum width Le of said channels 45.
[0117] In the case of straight channels 45, the width Le is constant over its entire length.
[0118] By "width" of the channels 45, we mean the dimension in the XZ plane perpendicular to the radial direction.
[0119] By “length” of the channels 45, we mean the dimension in the XZ plane parallel to the radial direction.
[0120] The calculated discharge coefficient of the nozzle is between 0.2 and 0.5, preferably equal to 0.32.
[0121] The discharge coefficient represents the ratio between an actual flow rate and an estimated flow rate. The discharge coefficient depends on the atomization coefficient K, the diameter Do of the outlet orifice 46, and the diameter Ds of the vortex chamber 44.
[0122] The atomization coefficient K of the nozzle 42 is between 0.5 and 1, preferably equal to 0.75.
[0123] The atomization coefficient K corresponds to the ratio between the total passage area through the Ac channels with the product of the diameter Ds of the vortex chamber 44 by the diameter Do of the outlet orifice 46 of the nozzle 42.
[0124] The Solex value relating to the restrictivity of the nozzle 42 to the passage of the product flow is between 150mmH2O and 350mmH2O, preferably equal to 260mmH2O.
[0125] The Solex value corresponds to a pressure loss value measured by passing an airflow through the nozzle 35 and measuring the flow through said nozzle 35. The cosmetic composition
[0126] According to the invention, the cosmetic composition included in the packaging and dispensing aerosol assembly 1 is a biphasic composition comprising a liquid phase and a gaseous phase.
[0127] According to the invention, the biphasic cosmetic composition comprises: (i) one or more cosmetic agents in liquid phase, (ii) one or more liquid-phase solvents, selected from water, organic solvents, and mixtures thereof, and (iii) a propellant in both liquid and gaseous phases, said propellant comprising at least 50% by weight of carbon dioxide, relative to the total weight of the propellant included in said biphasic cosmetic composition, and the total carbon dioxide content in the biphasic cosmetic composition being in the range of 2% to 10% by weight, preferably 5% to 7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the biphasic cosmetic composition. Cosmetic agents
[0128] According to the invention, the biphasic cosmetic composition comprises one or more cosmetic agents in liquid phase.
[0129] Preferably, the cosmetic agent(s) of the cosmetic composition are chosen from fixing agents, cleansing agents, conditioning agents, coloring agents, and mixtures thereof. Fixing agents
[0130] The fixing agents are preferably chosen from fixing polymers.
[0131] The term "fixing polymer" means any polymer capable of giving shape to a hair or to maintain hair in a given shape.
[0132] The fixing polymer(s) may be chosen from anionic fixing polymers, cationic fixing polymers, amphoteric fixing polymers, non-ionic fixing polymers, and mixtures thereof.
[0133] Examples of anionic fixing polymers include polymers comprising groups derived from carboxylic, sulfonic or phosphoric acids, and having a number molecular mass between 500 and 5,000,000.
[0134] The carboxylic groups are provided by unsaturated monoacid or diacid carboxylic monomers such as those corresponding to formula (I): / (Al—COQH(I) R / ' 'R„ in which: - n is an integer from 0 to 10, - A denotes a methylene group, possibly linked to the carbon atom of the unsaturated group or to the neighboring methylene group when n is greater than 1, via a heteroatom such as oxygen or sulfur, - Ri denotes a hydrogen atom, a phenyl or benzyl group, - R2 designates a hydrogen atom, an alkyl group containing 1 to 4 carbon or carboxyl atoms, - R3 designates a hydrogen atom, an alkyl group containing 1 to 4 carbon atoms, a -CH2-COOH, phenyl or benzyl group.
[0135] In formula (I) above, the alkyl group comprising 1 to 4 carbon atoms may designate in particular the methyl and ethyl groups.
[0136] Preferred anionic fixing polymers with carboxylic or sulfonic groups are:
[0137] A) Acrylic or methacrylic acid copolymers or their salts, including acrylic acid and acrylamide copolymers and methacrylic acid / acrylic acid / ethyl acrylate / methyl methacrylate copolymers, in particular Amerhold DR 25 marketed by Amerchol, and sodium salts of polyhydroxycarboxylic acids. Methacrylic acid / ethyl acrylate copolymers, particularly in aqueous dispersion, such as Luviflex SOFT and Luvimer MAE marketed by BASF, may also be mentioned.
[0138] B) Copolymers of acrylic or methacrylic acid with a monoethylenic monomer such as ethylene, styrene, vinyl esters, or esters of acrylic or methacrylic acid, optionally grafted onto a polyalkylene glycol such as polyethylene glycol, and optionally crosslinked. Such polymers are described in particular in French patent 1,222,944 and German application no. 2,330,956, copolymers of this type having in their chain an acrylamide motif, optionally N-alkylated and / or hydroxyalkylated, as described in particular in Luxembourg patent applications 75370 and 75371. C1-C4 copolymers of acrylic acid and alkyl methacrylate may also be mentioned.
[0139] As another anionic fixing polymer of this family, we can also mention the branched sequenced anionic polymer butyl acrylate / acrylic acid / methacrylic acid sold under the name Fixate G-100 L by the company Lubrizol (INCI name AMP-acrylates / allyl methacrylate copolymer).
[0140] C) copolymers derived from crotonic acid such as those having in their chain vinyl acetate or propionate motifs, and possibly other monomers such as allylic or methallylic ester, vinyl ether or vinyl ester of a saturated, linear or branched, long-chain hydrocarbon carboxylic acid, such as those having at least 5 carbon atoms, these polymers which may be grafted and crosslinked, or a vinyl, allylic, or methallylic ester of an α- or β-cyclic carboxylic acid. Such polymers are described, among others, in French patents numbers 1,222,944, 1,580,545, 2,265,782, 2,265,781, 1,564,110, and 2,439,798. Commercial products falling into this class are resins 28, 29, 30, 26, 13, 14, and 28, 13, 10 sold by the National Starch company.
[0141] Crotonic acid derivative copolymers can also be cited as terpolymers such as crotonic acid / vinyl acetate / vinyl tert-butylbenzoate and in particular Mexomere PW supplied by Chimex.
[0142] D) Polymers derived from maleic, fumaric, and itaconic acids or anhydrides with vinyl esters, vinyl ethers, vinyl halides, phenylvinyl derivatives, acrylic acid and its esters; these polymers may be esterified. Such polymers are described in particular in US patents 2,047,398, 2,723,248, 2,102,113, GB patent 839,805, and especially those sold under the names Gantrez® AN or ES by ISP.
[0143] Polymers also falling within this class are copolymers of maleic, citraconic, and itaconic anhydrides and an allylic or methallylic ester optionally comprising an acrylamide, methacrylamide, α-olefin, acrylic or methacrylic esters, acrylic or methacrylic acids, or vinylpyrrolidone group in their chain; the anhydride functions are monoesterified or monoamidified. These polymers are, for example, described in French patents 2,350,384 and 2,357,241 of the applicant.
[0144] E) Polyacrylamides comprising carboxylate groups.
[0145] F) Polymers comprising sulfonic groups. These polymers may be polymers comprising vinylsulfonic, styrene-sulfonic, naphthalene-sulfonic, acrylamido-alkylsulfonic, sulfoisophthalate motifs.
[0146] These polymers may be selected in particular from: - salts of polyvinylsulfonic acid having a molecular mass between about 1,000 and 100,000 as well as copolymers with an unsaturated comonomer such as acrylic or methacrylic acids, and their esters, as well as acrylamide or its derivatives, vinyl ethers and vinylpyrrolidone; - the salts of polystyrene-sulfonic acid, the sodium salts, having a molecular mass of about 500,000 and about 100,000. These compounds are described in patent FR 2198719; - polyacrylamide-sulfonic acid salts such as those mentioned in US patent 4,128,631;
[0147] G) grafted anionic silicone polymers;
[0148] The grafted silicone polymers used are preferably chosen from non-siliconized organic backbone polymers grafted with monomers containing a polysiloxane, polymers with a polysiloxane skeleton grafted by non-siliconized organic monomers and their mixtures.
[0149] H) Anionic polyurethanes, which may include silicone grafts and hydrocarbon-grafted silicones.
[0150] Examples of fixing polyurethane may include the copolymer dimethylolpropionic acid / isophorone-diisocyanate / neopentylglycol / polyesterdiols (also known as polyurethane-1, INCI name) sold under the brand name Luviset® PUR by BASF, the copolymer dimethylolpropionic acid / isophorone-diisocyanate / neopentylglycol / polyesterdiols / siliconized diamine (also known as polyurethane-6, INCI name) sold under the brand name Luviset® Si PUR A by BASF.
[0151] As another anionic polyurethane, L'avalure UR 450 can also be used.
[0152] Polymers with sulfoisophthalate groups, such as the AQ55 and AQ48 polymers marketed by the Eastman company, can also be used.
[0153] According to the invention, the anionic fixing polymers are preferably selected from acrylic acid copolymers such as the acrylic acid / ethyl acrylate / N-tert-butylacrylamide terpolymer sold under the name Ultrahold Strong® by BASF, methacrylic acid / ethyl acrylate copolymers, particularly in aqueous dispersion, such as Luviflex Soft and Luvimer MAE marketed by BASF, crotonic acid-derived copolymers such as vinyl acetate / vinyl tert-butylbenzoate / crotonic acid terpolymers and crotonic acid / vinyl acetate / vinyl neododecanoate terpolymers sold under the name Resin 28-29-30 by National Starch, and polymers derived from maleic, fumaric, or itaconic acids or anhydrides with vinyl esters, vinyl ethers, or halides. vinyls, phenyl vinyl derivatives,Acrylic acid and its esters such as the monoesterified methylvinyl ether / maleic anhydride copolymer sold under the name gantrez® es 425 by ISP, Luviset Si pure, Mexomere PW, anionic polyurethanes, elastomeric or non-elastomeric, polymers with sulfoisophthalate groups, anionic fixing polymers of family B), and even more particularly, the branched sequenced anionic polymer butyl acrylate / acrylic acid / methacrylic acid sold under the name Fixate G-100 L by Lubrizol (INCI name AMP-Acrylates / Allyl methacrylate Copolymer) is preferred.
[0154] The cationic fixing polymers usable according to the present invention are preferably chosen from polymers comprising primary, secondary, tertiary and / or quaternary amine groups forming part of the polymer chain or directly related to it, and having a molecular weight between 500 and about 5,000,000 and preferably between 1,000 and 3,000,000.
[0155] Among these cationic fixing polymers, the following cationic polymers may be mentioned in particular: - vinylpyrrolidone / acrylate or dialkylaminoalkyl methacrylate copolymers, quaternized or not, such as the products sold under the name "Gafquat" by the company ISP, for example "Gafquat 734" or "Gafquat 755" or the products named "Copolymer 845, 958 and 937". These polymers are described in detail in French patents 2,077,143 and 2,393,573; - dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate / vinylcaprolactam / vinylpyrrolidone terpolymers, such as the product sold under the name Gaffix VC 713 by the company ISP; - the quaternized vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminopropyl methacrylamide copolymers, such as the product sold under the name "Gafquat HS 100" by the company ISP; - quaternary polymers of vinylpyrrolidone and vinylimidazole such as, for example, the products marketed under the names Luviquat® FC 905, FC 550 and FC 370 by BASF; - vinylamine polymers containing in their structure: (a) one or more patterns meeting the following formula (A): —CH^—CH™ (b) possibly one or more reasons corresponding to the following formula (B): —CH~—CH“ "I (B) NH-CH U O In other words, these polymers can be chosen in particular from homo- or copolymers containing one or more motifs derived from vinylamine and possibly one or more motifs derived from vinylformamide. Preferably, these cationic polymers are chosen from polymers having in their structure 5 to 100% by moles of motifs corresponding to formula (A) and 0 to 95% by moles of motifs corresponding to formula (B), preferably 10 to 100% by moles of motifs corresponding to formula (A) and 0 to 90% by moles of motifs corresponding to formula (B). These polymers can be obtained, for example, by partial hydrolysis of polyvinylformamide. This hydrolysis can be carried out in an acidic or basic medium. The average molecular mass by weight of said polymer, measured by light diffraction, can vary from 1000 to 3,000,000 g / mol, preferably from 10,000 to 1,000,000 g / mol and more particularly from 100,000 to 500,000 g / mol. Polymers with formula motifs (A) and possibly formula motifs (B) are notably sold under the name Lupamin by BASF, such as, for example, and without limitation, the products offered under the name Lupamin 9095, Lupamin 5095, Lupamin 1095, Lupamin 9030 (or Luviquat 9030) and Lupamin 9010; - Fatty chain polymers with a vinylpyrrolidone motif, such as the products sold under the name Stylèze W20 and Stylèze W10 by the company ISP; - Chitosans or their salts; the usable salts are in particular chitosan acetate, lactate, glutamate, gluconate or pyrrolidone-carboxylate. Among these compounds, we can mention chitosan with a deacetylation rate of 90.5% by weight sold under the name Kytan Brut Standard by the company Aber Technologies, chitosan pyrrolidone-carboxylate marketed under the name Kytamer® PC by the company Amerchol.
[0156] Amphoteric fixing polymers usable according to the invention can be chosen from polymers comprising motifs B and C distributed statistically in the polymer chain where B designates a motif derived from a monomer comprising at least one basic nitrogen atom and C designates a motif derived from an acidic monomer comprising one or more carboxylic or sulfonic groups or B and C can designate groups derived from zwitterionic monomers of carboxybetaines or sulfobetaines;B and C can also refer to a cationic polymer chain comprising primary, secondary, tertiary or quaternary amine groups, in which at least one of the amine groups bears a carboxylic or sulfonic group linked via a hydrocarbon group, or B and C are part of a chain of an ethylene-dicarboxylic motif polymer in which one of the carboxylic groups has been made to react with a polyamine comprising one or more primary or secondary amine groups.
[0157] Amphoteric fixing polymers meeting the above definition, which are preferred in particular, are chosen from the following polymers:
[0158] 1) polymers resulting from the copolymerization of a monomer derived from a A vinyl compound bearing a carboxylic acid group, such as acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, maleic acid, or alpha-chloroacrylic acid, and a basic monomer derived from a substituted vinyl compound containing at least one basic atom, such as dialkylaminoalkylmethacrylate and acrylate, dialkylaminoalkylmethacrylamide, and acrylamide. Such compounds are described in U.S. Patent No. 3,836,537. The vinyl compound can also be a dialkyldiallylammonium salt such as diethyldiallylammonium chloride.
[0159] 2) polymers comprising motifs derived from: a) of at least one monomer chosen from acrylamides or methacrylamides substituted on the nitrogen by an alkyl group, b) of at least one acidic comonomer containing one or more reactive carboxylic groups, and c) of at least one basic comonomer such as primary, secondary, tertiary and quaternary amine-substituting esters of acrylic and methacrylic acids, and the quaternization product of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate with dimethyl or diethyl sulfate. The N-substituted acrylamides or methacrylamides most particularly preferred according to the invention are groups whose alkyl groups contain from 2 to 12 carbon atoms and more particularly N-ethylacrylamide, N-tert-butylacrylamide, N-tert-octylacrylamide, N-octylacrylamide, N-decylacrylamide, N-dodecylacrylamide as well as the corresponding methacrylamides. The acidic comonomers are chosen particularly from acrylic, methacrylic, crotonic, itaconic, maleic, and fumaric acids, as well as alkyl monoesters of maleic or fumaric acids or anhydrides with 1 to 4 carbon atoms. The preferred basic comonomers are aminoethyl, butylaminoethyl, N,N'-dimethylaminoethyl, and N-tert-butylaminoethyl methacrylates. Copolymers are particularly used whose CTFA designation (4th Ed, 1991) is Octylacrylamide / acrylates / butylaminoethylmethacrylate copolymer such as the products sold under the name Amphomer® or Lovocryl® 47 by the company NATIONAL STARCH.
[0160] 3) partially or totally alkylated crosslinked polyaminoamides derived from general formula polyaminoamides (II): (II) in which R4 represents a divalent group derived from a saturated dicarboxylic acid, a mono- or dicarboxylic aliphatic acid with an ethylenic double bond, an ester of an alcohol having 1 to 6 carbon atoms of these acids, or a group derived from the addition of any of said acids with a primary bisamine or secondary bisamine, and Z denotes a group of a primary bisamine, mono- or secondary bisamine, and preferably represents: a) in proportions of 60 to 100% by moles, group (III) ----MHHNCFLj —NH-I----01 s X: u .. p. where x=2 and p=2 or 3, or x=3 and p=2 this group derived from diethylenetriamine, triethylenetetraamine or dipropylenetriamine; b) in the proportions of 0 to 40% by moles, group (IV) above, in which x=2 and p=l and which is derived from ethylenediamine, or the group derived from piperazine / \ (IV) (c) in proportions of 0 to 20% by moles, the -NH-(CH2)6-NH- group derived from rhexamethylenediamine, these polyaminoamines being crosslinked by the addition of a bifunctional crosslinking agent selected from epihalohydrins, diepoxides, dianhydrides, bis-unsaturated derivatives, by means of 0.025 to 0.35 mole of crosslinking agent per amine group of the polyaminoamide and alkoylated by action of acrylic acid, chloroacetic acid or an alkane-sultone or their salts.
[0161] The saturated carboxylic acids are preferably chosen from among those having 6 to 10 carbon atoms, such as adipic, 2,2,4-trimethyladipic and 2,4,4-trimethyladipic, and terephthalic acids, and acids with ethylenic double bonds, such as acrylic, methacrylic, and itaconic acids. The alkane-sultones used in the alkonylation are preferably propane- or butane-sultone, and the salts of the alkonylation agents are preferably sodium or potassium salts.
[0162] 4) polymers comprising zwitterionic motifs of formula (V): in which: R5 denotes a polymerizable unsaturated group such as an acrylate, methacrylate, acrylamide or methacrylamide group, y and z each represent an integer from 1 to 3, R6 and R7 represent a hydrogen atom, a methyl, ethyl or propyl group, R8 and R9 represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group such that the sum of carbon atoms in Ri0 and Ru does not exceed 10.
[0163] Polymers comprising such motifs may also include motifs derived from non-zwitterionic monomers such as acrylate or methacrylate of dimethyl- or diethylaminoethyl, or alkyl acrylates or methacrylates, acrylamides or methacrylamides, or vinyl acetate.
[0164] 5) chitosan-derived polymers comprising monomer units responding to the following formulas (VI), (VII) and (VIII): (VI) (VII) (VIII) Motif (VI) being present in proportions between 0 and 30%, motif (VII) in proportions between 5 and 50% and motif (VIII) in proportions between 30 and 90%, it being understood that in this motif (VIII), Rio represents a group of formula (IX): FL, (IX) —c—(O)^—ç in which if q=0, Ru, Rn and R13, identical or different, each represent a hydrogen atom, a methyl, hydroxyl, acetoxy or amino residue, a monoalkylamine residue or a dialkylamine residue possibly interrupted by one or more nitrogen atoms and / or possibly substituted by one or more amine, hydroxyl, carboxyl, alkylthio, sulfonic groups, an alkylthio residue whose alkyl group bears an amino residue, at least one of the Rn, R12 and R13 groups being in this case a hydrogen atom;
[0165] or if q=l, Ru, R[2 and R[3 each represent a hydrogen atom, as well as the salts formed by these compounds with bases or acids.
[0166] 6) Polymers derived from the N-carboxyalkylation of chitosan.
[0167] 7) Polymers with motifs conforming to the general formula (X) described, for example, in French patent 1,400,366: IR [ s K r -î (CH—CH„)------ CH-----ÇH-1-- COOH CO ï : u i I R J j ! Il ! I 'O
[0168] (X) in which R[4 represents a hydrogen atom, a CH3O, CH3CH2O, phenyl group, Ri5 denotes hydrogen or a C4 alkyl group such as methyl and ethyl, Ri6 denotes hydrogen or a C4 alkyl group such as methyl and ethyl, Rn denotes a C4 alkyl group such as methyl and ethyl or a group corresponding to the formula: -Ri8-N(Ri6)2, R^ representing a -CH2-CH2-, -CH2-CH2-CH2-, -CH2-CH(CH3)- group, Ri6 having the meanings mentioned above, as well as higher homologues of these groups and containing up to 6 carbon atoms. 8) Amphoteric polymers of the -DXDX- type selected from: a) polymers obtained by the action of chloroacetic acid or sodium chloroacetate on compounds having at least one motif of the formula: -DXDXD- (XI) where D denotes a group and X denotes the symbol E or E'; E or E', identical or different, denotes a divalent group which is a straight-chain or branched alkylene group having up to 7 carbon atoms in the main chain unsubstituted or substituted by hydroxyl groups, and may further include oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur atoms, 1 to 3 aromatic and / or heterocyclic rings; the oxygen, nitrogen and sulfur atoms being present as ether, thioether, sulfoxide, sulfone, sulfonium, alkylamine, alkenylamine, hydroxyl, benzylamine, amine oxide, quaternary ammonium, amide, imide, alcohol, ester and / or urethane groups. b) Polymers with the following formula: -DXDX- (XII) where D denotes a group \ and X denotes the symbol E or E' and at least once E'; E having the meaning indicated above and E' is a divalent group which is a straight or branched chain alkylene group having up to 7 carbon atoms in the main chain, substituted or not by one or more hydroxyl groups and comprising one or more nitrogen atoms, the nitrogen atom being substituted by an alkyl chain possibly interrupted by an oxygen atom and necessarily comprising one or more carboxyl functions or one or more hydroxyl functions and betainized by reaction with chloroacetic acid or sodium chloroacetate.
[0169] 9) Partially modified alkyl(Ci-C5)vinyl ether / maleic anhydride copolymers by semiamidification with an N,N dialkylaminoalkylamine such as N,N dimethylaminopropyl-amine or by semiesterification with an N,N-dialcanolamine These copolymers may also include other vinyl comonomers such as vinylcaprolactam.
[0170] According to a preferred embodiment, the amphoteric fixing polymers usable in the invention can be selected from branched block copolymers comprising: (a) non-ionic motifs derived from at least one monomer selected from Ci-C20 alkyl (meth)acrylates, N-mono-(C2-Ci2 alkyl)-(meth)acrylamides and N,N-di-(C2-Ci2 alkyl)-(meth)acrylamide, (b) anionic motifs derived from at least one monomer selected from acrylic acid and methacrylic acid, and (c) polyfunctional motifs derived from at least one monomer comprising at least two polymerizable unsaturated functional groups, and preferably having a structure made up of hydrophobic blocks onto which are fixed, via polyfunctional motifs (c), several more hydrophilic blocks.
[0171] Preferably, the amphoteric polymers have at least two glass transition temperatures (Tg), at least one of which is greater than 20°C and the other is less than 20°C.
[0172] Preferred amphoteric polymers are polymers with derived motifs: a) of at least one monomer chosen from acrylamides or methacrylamides substituted on the nitrogen by an alkyl group, b) of at least one acidic comonomer containing one or more reactive carboxylic groups, and c) of at least one basic comonomer such as primary, secondary, tertiary and quaternary amine-substituting esters of acrylic and methacrylic acids, and the quaternization product of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate with dimethyl or diethyl sulfate.
[0173] One can cite, in particular, the polymers sold under the name Amphomer by the company National Starch.
[0174] The non-ionic fixing polymers usable according to the present invention are chosen, for example, from: - polyalkyloxazolines, - vinyl acetate homopolymers, - vinyl acetate copolymers, such as, for example, vinyl acetate and acrylic ester copolymers, vinyl acetate and ethylene copolymers, or vinyl acetate and maleic ester copolymers, for example, dibutyl maleate, - homopolymers and copolymers of acrylic esters, such as, for example, alkyl acrylate and alkyl methacrylate copolymers, such as the products offered by Rohm & Haas under the names Primai® AC-261 K and Eudragit® NE 30 D, by BASF under the name 8845, by Hoechst under the name Appretan® N9212, - copolymers of acrylonitrile and a non-ionic monomer selected, for example, from butadiene and alkyl (meth)acrylates, such as the products offered under the name CJ 0601 B by Rohm & Haas, - styrene homopolymers, - styrene copolymers such as, for example, styrene and alkyl (meth)acrylate copolymers, such as the products Mowilith® LDM 6911, Mowilith® DM 611 and Mowilith® LDM 6070 offered by Hoechst, the products Rhodopas® SD 215 and Rhodopas® DS 910 offered by Rhône Poulenc, styrene, alkyl methacrylate and alkyl acrylate copolymers, styrene and butadiene copolymers, or styrene, butadiene and vinylpyridine copolymers, - polyamides, - vinyllactam homopolymers, such as vinylpyrrolidone homopolymers, polyvinylcaprolactam marketed under the name Luviskol® PLUS by BASF, - vinyllactam copolymers, such as a poly(vinylpyrrolidone / vinyllactam) copolymer sold under the trade name Luvitec® VPC 55K65W by BASF, poly(vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acetate) copolymers such as those marketed under the name PVPVA® S630L by ISP, Luviskol® VA 73, VA 64, VA 55, VA 37 and VA 28 by BASF, and poly(vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acetate / vinyl propionate) terpolymers such as, for example, the one marketed under the name Luviskol® VAP 343 by BASF, and -poly(vinyl alcohol).
[0175] The alkyl groups of the non-ionic polymers mentioned above preferably have 1 to 6 carbon atoms.
[0176] Advantageously, the fixing polymer(s) are chosen from non-ionic fixing polymers, anionic fixing polymers, and mixtures thereof.
[0177] Preferably, the fixing polymer(s) are chosen from anionic fixing polymers, such as those described above.
[0178] More preferably, the fixing polymer(s) are chosen from the following fixing polymer(s): (a) acrylic acid copolymers such as acrylic acid / ethyl acrylate / N-tert-butylacrylamide terpolymer, (b) methacrylic acid / ethyl acrylate copolymers, (c) copolymers derived from crotonic acid such as vinyl acetate / vinyl tert-butylbenzoate / crotonic acid terpolymers and crotonic acid / vinyl acetate / vinyl neododecanoate terpolymers, (d) polymers derived from maleic, fumaric, itaconic acids or anhydrides with vinyl esters, vinyl ethers, vinyl halides, phenylvinyl derivatives, acrylic acid and its esters such as monoesterified methylvinyl ether / maleic anhydride copolymer, (e) anionic polyurethanes, (f) branched sequenced anionic polymers butyl acrylate / acrylic acid / methacrylic acid, (g) amphoteric acrylate / octylacrylamide copolymers, (h) cationic VP / DMAPA acrylates copolymers, (j) cationic copolymers vinyl caprolactam / VP / dimethylamidoethylmethacrylate, (k) polyvinylcaprolactams, (1) VP / VA copolymers, (m) polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP), and (n) their mixtures.
[0179] More preferably, the fixing polymer(s) are chosen from among the following anionic fixing polymers: (a) acrylic acid copolymers such as acrylic acid / ethyl acrylate / N-tert-butylacrylamide terpolymer, (b) methacrylic acid / ethyl acrylate copolymers, (c) copolymers derived from crotonic acid such as vinyl acetate / vinyl tert-butylbenzoate / crotonic acid terpolymers and crotonic acid / vinyl acetate / vinyl neododecanoate terpolymers, (d) polymers derived from maleic, fumaric, itaconic acids or anhydrides with vinyl esters, vinyl ethers, vinyl halides, phenylvinyl derivatives, acrylic acid and its esters such as monoesterified methylvinyl ether / maleic anhydride copolymer, (e) anionic polyurethanes, (f) branched sequenced anionic polymers butyl acrylate / acrylic acid / methacrylic acid, and (g) their mixtures.
[0180] Even better, the fixing polymer(s) are selected from the following terpolymers: crotonic acid / vinyl acetate / vinyl neododecanoate, acrylic acid / ethyl acrylate / N-tert-butylacrylamide, AMP-Acrylates / Allyl methacrylate copolymers, methacrylic acid / ethyl acrylate copolymers, PVM / MA butyl ester copolymer, PVM / MA ethyl ester copolymer, polyurethane 6, PPG-17 / IPDI / DMPA copolymer, and mixtures thereof.
[0181] Even better, the cosmetic composition includes at least one crotonic acid / vinyl acetate / vinyl neododecanoate terpolymer.
[0182] Preferably, when present, the total content of fixing agent(s) is in the range of 0.05% to 25% by weight, more preferably 0.1% to 20% by weight, more preferably 0.2% to 15% by weight, better 0.5% to 10% by weight, and even better 1% to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the liquid phase of the biphasic cosmetic composition.
[0183] Preferably, when present, the total content of fixing polymer(s) is in the range of 0.05% to 25% by weight, more preferably 0.1% to 20% by weight, more preferably 0.2% to 15% by weight, better 0.5% to 10% by weight, and even better 1% to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the liquid phase of the biphasic cosmetic composition.
[0184] Preferably, when present, the total content of non-ionic and anionic fixing polymer(s) is in the range of 0.05% to 25% by weight, more preferably 0.1% to 20% by weight, more preferably 0.2% to 15% by weight, better 0.5% to 10% by weight, and even better 1% to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the liquid phase of the biphasic cosmetic composition.
[0185] Preferably, when present, the total content of anionic fixing polymer(s) is in the range of 0.05% to 25% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% to 20% by weight, more preferably from 0.2% to 15% by weight, better from 0.5% to 10% by weight, and even better from 1% to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the liquid phase of the two-phase cosmetic composition. Cleansing agents
[0186] Advantageously, the washing agents are chosen from anionic surfactants, amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants, and mixtures thereof.
[0187] The term "anionic surfactant" means a surfactant, preferably non-siliconized, comprising only anionic groups as ionic or ionizable groups.
[0188] In the present description, an entity is qualified as "anionic" when it has at least one permanent negative charge or when it can be ionized into a negatively charged entity, under the conditions of use of the composition of the invention (medium, pH for example) and not comprising a cationic charge.
[0189] Anionic surfactants can be chosen from sulfate, sulfonate and carboxylic (or carboxylate) surfactants. A mixture of these surfactants can obviously be used.
[0190] It is understood in this description that: - Anionic carboxylate surfactants include at least one carboxylic or carboxylate function (-COOH or -COO), and do not include a sulfate and / or sulfonate function; - Anionic sulfonate surfactants comprise at least one sulfonate function (-SO3H or -SO3), and may optionally also comprise one or more carboxylate functions, but do not comprise a sulfate function; and - Anionic sulfate surfactants include at least one sulfate function but do not include a carboxylate or sulfonate function.
[0191] The anionic carboxylate surfactants that may be used therefore include at least one carboxylic or carboxylate function (-COOH or -COO).
[0192] Anionic carboxylate surfactants may be selected from the following compounds: acylglycinates, acyllactylates, acylsarcosinates, acylglutamates; alkyl-D-galactoside-uronic acids, alkylethercarboxylic acids, alkyl(aryl C6-C30)ethercarboxylic acids, alkylamidoethercarboxylic acids; as well as salts of these compounds; and mixtures thereof; the alkyl and / or acyl groups of these compounds having from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 28, or even better from 14 to 24, or even from 16 to 22, carbon atoms; the aryl group preferably designating a phenyl or benzyl group; these compounds can be polyoxyalkylated, in particular polyoxyethylated and then preferably comprising from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide motifs, better from 2 to 10 ethylene oxide motifs.
[0193] C6-C24 alkyl monoesters and polyglycoside-polycarboxylic acids such as C6-C24 alkyl polyglycoside-citrates, C6-C24 alkyl polyglycoside-tartrates and C6-C24 alkyl polyglycoside-sulfosuccinates, and their salts, may also be used.
[0194] Preferably, the anionic carboxylate surfactants are selected from, alone or in mixtures: - acylglutamates, especially in C6-C24, or even in Ci2-C20, such as stearoylglutamates, and in particular disodium stearoylglutamate; - acylsarcosinates, particularly in C6-C24, or even in Ci2-C20, such as palmitoylsarcosinates, and in particular sodium palmitoylsarcosinate; - acyllactylates, especially in Ci2-C28, or even in Ci4-C24, such as behenoyllactylates, and in particular sodium behenoyllactylate; - C6-C24 acylglycinates, particularly Ci2-C20; - alkyl(C6-C24)ethercarboxylates, and in particular alkyl(C12-C20)ethercarboxylates; - polyoxyalkylened alkyl(C6-C24) (amido) ether carboxylic acids, in particular those containing 2 to 50 ethylene oxide groups; in particular in the form of alkali or alkaline earth metal salts, ammonium, or amino alcohols.
[0195] Sarcosinate-type surfactants may in particular be selected from alkyl(C6-C3O)sarcosinates of the following formula (I): RC(O)-N(CH3)-CH2-C(O)-OX (I) with - X designating a hydrogen atom, an ammonium ion, an ion from an alkali or alkaline earth metal, or an ion from an organic amine, preferably a hydrogen atom, and - R designates a linear or branched alkyl group, of 5 to 29 carbon atoms. R preferably designates a linear or branched alkyl group, of 8 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably of 12 to 20 carbon atoms.
[0196] Among the alkyl(C6-C3o)sarcosinates of formula (I) usable in the present composition, we may mention palmitoylsarcosinates, stearoylsarcosinates, myristoylsarcosinates, lauroylsarcosinates, and cocoylsarcosinates, in acid form or in sal form.
[0197] The anionic surfactant(s) of the sarcosinate type are advantageously chosen from sodium lauroylsarcosinate, stearoyl sarcosine, myristoyl sarcosine, and mixtures thereof, preferably from stearoyl sarcosine, myristoyl sarcosine, and mixtures thereof.
[0198] Among the carboxylic surfactants above, we can also mention polyoxyalkylened alkyl(amido)ether carboxylic acids and their salts, in particular those comprising 2 to 50 alkylene oxide groups, in particular ethylene, such as the compounds offered by the company KAO under the names AKYPO.
[0199] The polyoxyalkylened alkyl(amido)ether carboxylic acids that may be used are preferably chosen from those of formula (II): Rl-(OC2H4)n-OCH2COOA (II) in which: - RI represents a linear or branched C6-C24 alkyl or alkenyl radical, an alkyl(C8-C9)phenyl radical, an R2CONH-CH2-CH2- radical with R2 designating a linear or branched C9-C2i alkyl or alkenyl radical; Preferably RI is an alkyl radical in the C8-C20 range, preferably in the C8-Ci8 range, and aryl preferably designates phenyl, - n is an integer or decimal number (average value) ranging from 2 to 24, preferably from 2 to 10, - A denotes H, ammonium, Na, K, Li, Mg or a monoethanolamine or triethanolamine residue.
[0200] Mixtures of compounds of formula (II) can also be used, in particular mixtures of compounds having different RI groups.
[0201] Preferred polyoxyalkylened alkyl(amido)ether carboxylic acids are those of formula (II) in which: - RI designates an alkyl radical in the form Ci2-CM, cocoyl, oleyl, nonylphenyl or octylphenyl, - A denotes a hydrogen or sodium atom, and - n varies from 2 to 20, preferably 2 to 10.
[0202] More preferably still, RI denotes an alkyl radical in Ci2, A denotes a hydrogen or sodium atom and n varies from 2 to 10.
[0203] The anionic sulfonate surfactants that may be used comprise at least one sulfonate function (-SO3H or -SO3).
[0204] Anionic sulfonate surfactants may be selected from the following compounds: alkylsulfonates, alkylamide sulfonates, alkylarylsulfonates, alpha-olefin sulfonates, paraffin sulfonates, alkylsulfosuccinates, alkyl ether sulfosuccinates, alkylamide sulfosuccinates, alkylsulfoacetates, N-acyltaurates, acylisethionates, alkylsulfolaurates, and salts of these compounds; the alkyl groups of these compounds having from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 28, even better from 14 to 24, or even from 16 to 22, carbon atoms; the aryl group preferably designating a phenyl or benzyl group; these compounds can be polyoxyalkylated, in particular polyoxyethylated and then preferably comprising from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide motifs, better from 2 to 10 ethylene oxide motifs.
[0205] Preferably, the anionic sulfonate surfactants are selected from, alone or in mixtures: - C6-C24 alkylsulfosuccinates, especially Ci2-C2o, particularly laurylsulfosuccinates. - C6-C24 alkyl ether sulfosuccinates, particularly in Ci2-C20; - N-acyltaurates in C6-C24, particularly in Ci2-C20 - (C6-C24)acylisethionates, preferably (Ci2-Ci8)acylisethionates, particularly in the form of alkali or alkaline earth metal salts, ammonium, or amino alcohol.
[0206] Preferably, the sulfonate-type anionic surfactant(s) are selected from C6-C24 N-acyltaurates, particularly Ci2-C20, and in particular N-acyl N-methyltaurates, C6-C24 acylisethionates, particularly Ci2-Ci8, as well as their salts and mixtures.
[0207] More preferably, the anionic surfactant(s) of the sulfonate type are chosen from among the C6-C24 acylisethionates, in particular in Ci2-Ci8, as well as their salts and mixtures.
[0208] The anionic sulfate surfactants that may be used have at least one sulfate function (-OSO3H or -OSO3).
[0209] Anionic sulfate surfactants may be selected from the following compounds: alkyl sulfates, alkyl ethers sulfates, alkylamido ethers sulfates, alkylaryl polyethers sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates; as well as salts of these compounds; the alkyl groups of these compounds having from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 8 to 28, even better from 10 to 24, or even from 12 to 22, carbon atoms; the aryl group preferably designating a phenyl or benzyl group; these compounds can be (poly)oxyalkylated, in particular (poly)oxyethylated and then preferably comprising from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide motifs, better from 1 to 10 ethylene oxide motifs.
[0210] Preferably, the anionic sulfate surfactants are selected from, alone or in mixtures: - alkyl sulfates, particularly in the C10-C24 and even C12-C22 forms, - alkyl ethersulfates, especially in Ci0-C24, or even in Ci2-C22, preferably comprising 1 to 20 ethylene oxide motifs; in particular in the form of alkali or alkaline earth metal salts, ammonium, or amino alcohols.
[0211] When the anionic surfactant is in salt form, said salt may be selected from alkali metal salts such as sodium or potassium salt, ammonium salts, amine salts and in particular amino alcohols, and alkaline earth metal salts such as magnesium salt.
[0212] Examples of amino alcohol salts include mono-, di- and triethanolamine salts, mono-, di- or tri-isopropanolamine salts, 2-amino 2-methyl 1-propanol salts, 2-amino 2-methyl 1,3-propanediol salts and tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane salts.
[0213] Salts of alkali or alkaline earth metals are preferably used, and in particular salts of sodium or magnesium.
[0214] Advantageously, the anionic surfactant(s) are chosen from among sulfate anionic surfactants, carboxylate anionic surfactants, and mixtures of these two types of surfactants.
[0215] More preferably, the anionic surfactant(s) are chosen from: - C6-C30 alkyl sulfates, better C8-C24, even better C10-C24, or even C2-C22 - C6-C24 alkyl ether sulfates, better C10-C24, or even C12-C22, preferably comprising 1 to 20 ethylene oxide motifs, - salts of these compounds and their mixtures; in particular in the form of alkali or alkaline earth metal salts, ammonium, or amino alcohols.
[0216] Even more preferably, the anionic surfactant(s) are chosen from among the alkyl sulfates in C6-C30, better in C8-C24, even better in C10-C24, or even in C2-C22.
[0217] Preferably, when present, the total content of anionic surfactant(s) ranges from 1% to 25% by weight, more preferably from 2% to 20% by weight, more preferably from 5% to 18% by weight, better from 8% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the liquid phase of the biphasic cosmetic composition.
[0218] The amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) usable in cosmetic compositions as cleansing agents are preferably non-siliconized, and may in particular be derivatives of secondary or tertiary aliphatic amines, possibly quaternized, in which the aliphatic group is a linear or branched chain comprising 8 to 22 carbon atoms, said amine derivatives containing at least one anionic group such as, for example, a carboxylate, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate or phosphonate group.
[0219] In particular, alkyl(C8-C2o)betaines, alkyl(C8-C2o)sulfobetaines, alkyl(C8-C2o)amidoalkyl(Ci-C6)betaines, alkyl(C8-C20)-amidalkyl(Ci-C6)sulfobetaines, and mixtures thereof may be cited.
[0220] Among the usable secondary or tertiary aliphatic amine derivatives, possibly quantified, as defined above, we may also mention the compounds with the following respective structures (III) and (IV): Ra-CONHCH2CH2-N+(Rb)(Rc)-CH2COO , M+, X (III) formula (III), in which: - Ra represents an alkyl or alkenyl group in C10 to C30 derived from an acid RaCOOH, preferably present in hydrolyzed coconut oil, preferably Ra represents a heptyl, nonyl or undecyl group; - Rb represents a beta-hydroxyethyl group; - Rc represents a carboxymethyl group; - M+ represents a cationic counter ion derived from an alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion, or an ion derived from an organic amine; and - X represents an organic or inorganic anionic counter ion, such as one chosen from among halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, alkyl(Ci-C4)sulfates, alkyl(Cr C4)- or alkyl(Ci-C4)aryl-sulfonates, in particular methylsulfate and ethylsulfate; or else M+ and X are absent; Ra'-CONHCH2CH2-N(B)(B') (IV) formula (IV), in which: - B represents the group -CH2CH2OX'; - B' represents the group -(CH2)ZY', with z = 1 or 2; - X' represents the group -CH2COOH, -CH2-COOZ', -CH2CH2COOH, CH2CH2-COOZ', or a hydrogen atom; - Y' represents the group -COOH, -COOZ', -CH2CH(OH)SO3H or the group CH2CH(OH)SO3-Z'; - Z' represents a cationic counter ion from an alkali or alkaline earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion from an organic amine; - Ra' represents an alkyl or alkenyl group in C10 to C30 of an acid Ra'-COOH preferably present in coconut oil or in hydrolyzed linseed oil, preferably Ra' an alkyl group, especially in Cp and its iso form, an unsaturated Cp group.
[0221] These compounds are classified in the CTFA dictionary, 5th edition, 1993, under the names disodium cocoamphodiacetate, disodium lauroamphodiacetate, disodium caprylamphodiacetate, disodium capryloamphodiacetate, disodium cocoamphodipropionate, disodium lauroamphodipropionate, disodium caprylamphodipropionate, disodium capryloamphodipropionate, lauroamphodipropionic acid, cocoamphodipropionic acid.
[0222] As an example, we can cite cocoamphodiacetate marketed by the company RHODIA under the trade name MIRANOL® C2M concentrate.
[0223] Compounds of formula (V) can also be used: Ra' '-NHCH(Y”)-(CH2)nCONH(CH2)nN(Rd)(Re) (V) formula (V), in which: - Y” represents the group -COOH, -COOZ”, -CH2-CH(OH)SO3H or the group CH2CH(OH)SO3-Z”; - Rd and Re, independently of each other, represent an alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical in C1 to C4; - Z” represents a cationic counter ion from an alkali or alkaline earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion from an organic amine; - Ra” represents an alkyl or alkenyl group in C10 to C30 of an acid Ra”-COOH preferably present in coconut oil or hydrolyzed linseed oil; and - n and n', independently of each other, denote an integer from 1 to 3.
[0224] Among the compounds of formula (V) we can mention the compound classified in the CTFA dictionary under the name sodium diethylaminopropyl cocoaspartamide and marketed by the company CHIMEX under the name CHIMEXANE HB.
[0225] These compounds can be used alone or in mixtures.
[0226] Among the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants mentioned above, alkyl(C8-C2o)betaines, such as cocobetaine, alkyl(C8-C2o)amidoalkyl(C3-C8)betaines, such as cocamidopropylbetaine, alkyl(C8-C2o)amphoacetates, alkyl(C8-C20)amphodiacetates and mixtures thereof are advantageously used.
[0227] More preferably, the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) are chosen from alkyl(C8-C20)betaines, alkyl(C8-C20)amidoalkyl(C3-C8)betaines and mixtures thereof; more preferably still from cocobetaine, cocamidopropylbetaine, and mixtures thereof.
[0228] Even better, the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) are chosen from among the alkyl(C8-C2o)betaines, and especially coco-betaine.
[0229] Preferably, when present, the total content of amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) in the cosmetic composition ranges from 0.1% to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.5% to 10% by weight, and even more preferably from 1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the liquid phase of the biphasic cosmetic composition. Conditioning agents
[0230] Advantageously, the conditioning agents are selected from cationic surfactants, cationic polymers, silicones and non-siliconized fats, and mixtures thereof.
[0231] The conditioning agent(s) used in the cosmetic composition according to the invention are different from the fixing agent(s) used in the same cosmetic composition according to the invention.
[0232] A "cationic surfactant" is defined as a surfactant that is positively charged when contained in the compositions according to the invention. This surfactant may carry one or more permanent positive charges or contain one or more cationizable functional groups within the compositions according to the invention.
[0233] Cationic surfactants may be selected from primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amines, possibly polyoxyalkylated; quaternary ammonium salts, and mixtures thereof.
[0234] Quaternary ammonium salts include, in particular:
[0235] quaternary ammonium salts of formula (la): in which: The R8 to Ru groups, whether identical or different, represent a linear or branched aliphatic group, comprising from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, or an aromatic group such as aryl or alkylaryl, at least one of the R8 to Ru groups comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 24 carbon atoms; the aliphatic groups may comprise heteroatoms such as, in particular, oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur, and halogens; and X is an anion, in particular, chosen from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, alkyl(Ci-C4)sulfates, alkyl(Ci-C4)sulfonates or alkyl(Ci-C4)arylsulfonates.
[0236] The aliphatic groups R8 to Ru can be chosen from among the alkyl groups in C1-C30, alkoxy in Ci-C30, polyoxyalkylene (C2-C6), alkylamide in Ci-C30, alkyl(Ci2-C22)amidoalkyl(C2-C6), alkyl(Ci2-C22)acetate and hydroxyalkyl in Ci-C30.
[0237] Examples include halides, particularly chlorides, of tetraalkylammonium such as dialkyldimethylammonium chlorides or alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides in which the alkyl group comprises 12 to 22 carbon atoms, in particular behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, distearyldimethylammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, benzyldimethylstearylammonium chloride.
[0238] We can also mention halides, and in particular chlorides, of palmitylamidopropyltrimethylammonium or of stearamidopropyldimethyl-(myristyl acetate)-ammonium; in particular the product marketed under the name CERAPHYL® 70 by the company VAN DYK.
[0239] quaternary ammonium salts of imidazoline of formula (lia): ¢,, 1 ' .......CO-K» X (Ha; \ / w in which: Rn represents an alkenyl or alkyl group comprising 8 to 30 carbon atoms, for example derived from fatty acids in tallow, Rn represents a hydrogen atom, a Ci-C4 alkyl group, or an alkenyl or alkyl group with 8 to 30 carbon atoms; Ru represents a CrC4 alkyl group. Ris represents a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group in CrC4, X is an anion, notably chosen from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, alkyl(CrC4)sulfates, alkyl(Ci-C4)sulfonates or alkyl(Ci-C4)aryl-sulfonates.
[0240] Preferably, Rn and Rn denote a mixture of alkenyl or alkyl groups comprising 12 to 21 carbon atoms, for example derived from tallow fatty acids, Ri4 denotes a methyl group, and Ri5 denotes a hydrogen atom. Such a product is, for example, marketed under the name REWOQUAT® W75 or W90 by the company Evonik.
[0241] quaternary di- or triammonium salts of formula (Ilia): in which: - Ri6 designates an alkyl group comprising 16 to 30 carbon atoms, possibly hydroxylated and / or possibly interrupted by one or more oxygen atoms, - Rn designates hydrogen, an alkyl group with 1 to 4 carbon atoms, or a group -(CH2)3-N+(Ri6a)(Ri7a)(Ri8a), Ri6a, Ri7a, Ri8a, identical or different, designating hydrogen or an alkyl group with 1 to 4 carbon atoms, - Ri8, Ri9, R20 and R2i, identical or different, designate hydrogen or an alkyl group with 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and - X is an anion chosen in particular from the group of halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, alkyl(Ci-C4)sulfates, alkyl(Ci-C4)sulfonates and alkyl(Ci-C4)aryl-sulfonates, in particular methylsulfate and ethylsulfate.
[0242] Such compounds are for example Finquat CT-P (Quaternium 89) and Finquat CT (Quaternium 75) offered by the company FINETEX.
[0243] quaternary ammonium salts containing one or more ester functions of the following formula (IVa): (C.sH^Qk'--FUs oy ■ —b——-O—X OW in which: - R22 is chosen from among the alkyl groups in C1-C6 and the hydroxyalkyl or dihydroxyalkyl groups in C1-C6, - R23 is chosen from the R26-C(=O)- group; the R27 hydrocarbon groups in Ci-C22, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated; and the hydrogen atom, - R25 is chosen from the R28-C(=O)- group; the R29 hydrocarbon groups in the form Ci-C6, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated; and the hydrogen atom, - R24, R26 and R28, identical or different, are chosen from among the C7-C2i hydrocarbon groups, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, - r, s and t, whether identical or different, are integers ranging from 2 to 6, - rl and tl, whether identical or different, are equal to 0 or 1, - y is an integer ranging from 1 to 10, - x and z, whether identical or different, are integers ranging from 0 to 10, - X is an anion, given that r2 + rl = 2r and tl +12 = 2t, and that the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 15, provided that when x = 0 then R23 designates R27 and when z = 0 then R25 designates R29.
[0244] The alkyl groups R22 may be linear or branched, preferably linear. Preferably, R22 designates a methyl, ethyl, hydroxyethyl or dihydroxypropyl group, and more particularly a methyl or ethyl group.
[0245] Advantageously, the sum x + y + z is worth from 1 to 10.
[0246] When R23 is a hydrocarbon R27 group, it may comprise from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, or it may comprise from 1 to 3 carbon atoms.
[0247] When R25 is a hydrocarbon R29 group, it preferably has 1 to 3 carbon atoms.
[0248] Advantageously, R24, R26 and R28, identical or different, are chosen from Cn-C2i hydrocarbon groups, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and more particularly from Cn-C2i alkyl and alkenyl groups, linear or branched.
[0249] Preferably, x and z, whether identical or different, are equal to 0 or 1.
[0250] Advantageously, y is equal to 1.
[0251] Preferably, r, s and t, whether identical or different, are equal to 2 or 3, and even more particularly are equal to 2.
[0252] The anion X is preferably a halide, preferably a chloride, bromide or iodide, an alkyl(Ci-C4)sulfate, an alkyl(Ci-C4)sulfonate or an alkyl(Ci-C4)arylsulfonate, a methanesulfonate, a phosphate, a nitrate, a tosylate, an anion derived from an organic acid such as an acetate or a lactate, or any other ammonium-compatible anion with an ester function. The anion X- is more particularly a chloride, a methylsulfate, or an ethylsulfate.
[0253] In the composition according to the invention, ammonium salts of formula (IVa) are used more particularly, in which: - R22 designates a methyl or ethyl group, - x and y are equal to 1, - z is equal to 0 or 1, - r, s and t are equal to 2, - R23 is chosen from the R26-C(=O)- group; the methyl, ethyl or hydrocarbon groups in Ci4-C22> the hydrogen atom, - R25 is chosen from the R28-C(=O)- group; the hydrogen atom, - R24, R26 and R28 identical or different, are chosen from the hydrocarbon groups in Ci3-Ci7, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and preferably from the alkyl and alkenyl groups in Ci3-Ci7, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated.
[0254] Advantageously, hydrocarbon groups are linear.
[0255] Examples of compounds with formula (IVa) include salts, in particular diacyloxyethyldimethylammonium chloride or methylsulfate, diacyloxyethyl-hydroxyethylmethylammonium, and monoacyloxyethyldihydroxyethyl Methylammonium, triacyloxyethylmethylammonium, monoacyloxyethylhydroxyethyldimethylammonium, and mixtures thereof. The acyl groups preferably have 14 to 18 carbon atoms and are most often derived from a vegetable oil such as palm or sunflower oil. When the compound contains several acyl groups, these may be identical or different.
[0256] These products are obtained, for example, by direct esterification of triethanolamine, triisopropanolamine, alkyldiethanolamine or alkyldiisopropanolamine, optionally oxyalkylated with fatty acids, or with mixtures of fatty acids, particularly of vegetable or animal origin, or by transesterification of their methyl esters. This esterification may be followed by quaternization with an alkylating agent such as an alkyl halide, preferably methyl or ethyl, a dialkyl sulfate, preferably methyl or ethyl, methyl methanesulfonate, methyl para-toluenesulfonate, glycol chlorohydrin or glycerol. Such compounds are marketed for example under the names DEHYQUART® by the company HENKEL, STEPANQUAT® by the company STEPAN, NOXAMIUM® by the company CECA, REWOQUAT® WE 18 by the company Evonik.
[0257] The two-phase cosmetic composition may, for example, contain a mixture of quaternary ammonium mono-, di-, and triester salts, with a majority by weight of diester salts. Ammonium salts containing at least one ester function, as described in US patents 4874554 and 4137180, may also be used. Behenoylhydroxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride, for example, offered by KAO under the name Quartamin BTC 131, may also be used.
[0258] Preferably, ammonium salts containing at least one ester function contain two ester functions.
[0259] Fatty amines include amidoamines. The amidoamines according to the invention can be chosen from fatty amidoamines, the fatty chain being able to be carried by the amine group or by the amido group.
[0260] Amidoamine is understood to mean a compound comprising at least one amide function and at least one primary, secondary or tertiary amine function.
[0261] Fatty amidoamine is understood to be an amidoamine comprising, in general, at least one C6-C30 hydrocarbon chain. Preferably, the fatty amidoamines useful according to the invention are not quaternized.
[0262] Preferably, the fatty amidoamines useful according to the invention are not (poly)oxyalkylated.
[0263] Among the useful fatty amidoamines according to the invention, mention may be made of amidoamines of the following formula (Va): RCONHR”N(R')2(Va) in which: - R represents a linear or branched monovalent hydrocarbon radical, saturated or unsaturated and substituted or unsubstituted, having from 5 to 29 carbon atoms, preferably from 7 to 23 carbon atoms, and in particular a linear or branched C5-C29 alkyl radical, preferably C7-C23, or a linear or branched C5-C29 alkenyl radical, preferably C7-C23; - R” represents a divalent hydrocarbon radical having fewer than 6 carbon atoms, preferably 2 to 4 carbon atoms, better still, 3 carbon atoms; and - R', identical or different, represent a monovalent hydrocarbon radical having less than 6 carbon atoms, preferably 1 to 4 carbon atoms, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated and substituted or unsubstituted, preferably a methyl radical.
[0264] Fatty amidoamines of formula (Va) are, for example, selected from oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine marketed by INOLEX CHEMICAL COMPANY under the name LEXAMINE S13, isostearamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidoethyl dimethylamine, lauramidopropyl dimethylamine, myristamidopropyl dimethylamine, behenamidopropyl dimethylamine, dilinoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, ricinoleamindopropyl dimethylamine, soyamidopropyl dimethylamine, avocadoamidopropyl dimethylamine, cocamidopropyl dimethylamine, minkamidopropyl dimethylamine, oatamidopropyl dimethylamine, sesamidopropyl dimethylamine, tallamidopropyl dimethylamine, olivamidopropyl dimethylamine, the palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidoethyldiethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine and mixtures thereof.
[0265] Preferably, the fatty amidoamines are selected from oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, behenamidopropyl dimethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine and mixtures thereof.
[0266] Preferably, the cationic surfactants are chosen from those of formula (la), (IVa) or (Va), better from the salts of cetyltrimethylammonium, behenyltrimethylammonium, dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethyl-methylammonium, oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, behenamidopropyl dimethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine and mixtures thereof; better still from the salts of cetyltrimethylammonium, behenyltrimethylammonium, dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethyl- ammonium, and mixtures thereof, and more particularly among behenyltrimethylammonium chloride or methosulfate, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride or methosulfate, dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium chloride or methosulfate and mixtures thereof.
[0267] Preferably, when present, the total content of cationic surfactant(s) is in the range of 0.05 to 10% by weight, preferably 0.1 to 9% by weight, and better 0.5 to 8% by weight, better still 1 to 6% by weight relative to the total weight of the liquid phase of the biphasic cosmetic composition.
[0268] The cationic polymers usable as conditioning agents according to the invention are non-siliconized (not comprising any silicon atom).
[0269] The term "cationic polymer" means any non-siliconized polymer containing cationic groups and / or groups that can be ionized into cationic groups, and not containing anionic groups and / or groups that can be ionized into anionic groups.
[0270] The cationic polymer(s) used as conditioning agents are different from the cationic fixing polymer(s) used as fixing agents in the cosmetic composition according to the invention.
[0271] The cationic polymers that may be used preferably have a cationic charge density less than or equal to 5 milliequivalents / gram (meq / g), better less than or equal to 4 meq / g.
[0272] The cationic charge density of a polymer corresponds to the number of moles of cationic charge per unit mass of polymer under conditions where the polymer is fully ionized. It can be determined by calculation if the polymer structure is known, that is, the structure of the monomers constituting the polymer and their molar or weight proportions. It can also be determined experimentally by the Kjeldahl method.
[0273] The cationic polymers that may be used preferably have a weight average molar mass (Mw) between approximately 500 and 5.106, preferably between approximately 103 and 3.106.
[0274] Among the cationic polymers that may be used, the following polymers may be mentioned, alone or in mixtures:
[0275] (1) homopolymers or copolymers derived from acrylic esters or amides or methacrylics and containing at least one of the following formula motifs: CH. C —CH„-C — CH, C i II OC Q c ° c 1 I 1 G o N« II y । A to x' A I * I N R4—N+-R5 N R; Rs R^ r3 —CH^Ç— o=c
[0276] in which:
[0277] - R3, identical or different, designates a hydrogen atony or a CH3 radical;
[0278] - A, identical or different, represent a divalent alkyl group, linear or branched, of 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably 2 or 3 carbon atoms or a hydroxyalkyl group of 1 to 4 carbon atoms;
[0279] - R4, R5, R6, identical or different, represent an alkyl group having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms or a benzyl radical; preferably an alkyl group having 1 to 6 carbon atoms;
[0280] - RI and R2, whether identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a group alkyl having 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably methyl or ethyl;
[0281] - X denotes an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid such as an anion methosulfate or a halide such as chloride or bromide.
[0282] The copolymers of family (1) may further contain one or more motifs derived from comonomers that may be selected from the family of acrylamides, methacrylamides, diacetone acrylamides, acrylamides and methacrylamides substituted on the nitrogen by lower alkyls (C1-C4), esters of acrylic or methacrylic acid, vinyllactams such as vinylpyrrolidone or vinylcaprolactam, vinyl esters.
[0283] Among these copolymers of family (1), we can mention:
[0284] - copolymers of acrylamide and quaternized dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate dimethyl sulfate or with a dimethyl halide, such as that sold under the name HERCOFLOC by the company HERCULES,
[0285] - acrylamide and chloride copolymers methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium, such as those sold under the name BINA QUAT P 100 by the company CIBA GEIGY,
[0286] - the acrylamide and methosulfate copolymer methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium, such as that sold under the name RETEN by the company HERCULES,
[0287] - vinylpyrrolidone / acrylate or dialkylaminoalkyl methacrylate copolymers, whether quantified or not, such as products sold under the name "GAFQUAT" by the company ISP such as for example "GAFQUAT 734" or "GAFQUAT 755" or the products named "COPOLYMER 845, 958 and 937";
[0288] - dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate / vinylcaprolactam / terpolymers vinylpyrrolidone, such as the product sold under the name GAFFIX VC 713 by the company ISP,
[0289] - vinylpyrrolidone / methacrylamidopropyldimethylamine copolymers, such as those marketed under the name STYLEZE CC 10 by ISP;
[0290] - vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminopropyl methacrylamide copolymers quantified products, such as the product sold under the name "GAFQUAT HS 100" by the company ISP,
[0291] - polymers, preferably crosslinked, of methacryloyloxyalkyl(Cl-C4) salts trialkyl(Cl-C4)ammonium such as polymers obtained by homopolymerization of quaternized dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate with methyl chloride, or by copolymerization of acrylamide with quaternized dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate with methyl chloride, the homo- or copolymerization being followed by crosslinking with an olefinically unsaturated compound, in particular methylene bisacrylamide. A crosslinked acrylamide / methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride copolymer (20 / 80 by weight) can be used in the form of a dispersion comprising 50% by weight of said copolymer in mineral oil. This dispersion is marketed under the name "SALCARE® SC 92" by CIBA. Alternatively, a crosslinked homopolymer of methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride comprising about 50% by weight of the homopolymer in mineral oil or in a liquid ester can be used.These dispersions are marketed under the names "SALCARE® SC 95" and "SALCARE® SC 96" by the company CIBA.
[0292] (2) cationic polysaccharides, in particular celluloses and gums of cationic galactomannans.
[0293] Among cationic polysaccharides, particular examples include cellulose ether derivatives containing quaternary ammonium groups, cationic cellulose copolymers, cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer, and cationic galactomannan gums.
[0294] Cellulose ether derivatives containing quaternary ammonium groups are described in particular in FR1492597; they are also defined in the CTFA dictionary as quaternary ammoniums of hydroxyethylcellulose having reacted with an epoxide substituted by a trimethylammonium group.
[0295] Examples include polymers marketed under the name "UCARE POLYMER JR" (JR 400 LT, JR 125, JR 30M) or "LR" (LR 400, LR 30M) by the AMERCHOL Company.
[0296] Cationic cellulose copolymers and cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer are described, in particular, in US patent 4131576; examples include hydroxyalkylcelluloses, such as hydroxymethyl-, hydroxyethyl-, or hydroxypropyl celluloses grafted, in particular, with a salt of methacryloylethyltrimethylammonium, methacrylamidopropyl trimethylammonium, or dimethyldiallylammonium. Quaternized hydroxyethylcelluloses, crosslinked or not, are particularly noteworthy, the quaternizing agent being, in particular, diallyldimethylammonium chloride; and hydroxyethylcellulose hydroxypropyltrimethylammonium is especially noteworthy.
[0297] Among the commercial products meeting this definition, we can cite the products sold under the name "Celquat L 200" and "Celquat H 100" by the National Starch Company.
[0298] As a particularly preferred cationic cellulose, one can notably cite the polymer with the INCI name POLYQUATERNIUM-10.
[0299] Cationic galactomannan gums are described in particular in US patents 3589578 and 4031307; examples include cationic guar gums, especially those containing trialkylammonium cationic groups, particularly trimethylammonium. Examples include guar gums modified with a salt (for example, a chloride) of 2,3-epoxypropyl trimethylammonium.
[0300] Preferably, 2 to 30% by number of the hydroxyl groups of the guar gums bear trialkylammonium cationic groups. Even more preferably, 5 to 20% of the hydroxyl groups of these guar gums are branched by trialkylammonium cationic groups. Among these trialkylammonium groups, trimethylammonium and triethylammonium groups are particularly noteworthy. Even more preferably, these groups represent 5% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the modified guar gum. According to the invention, guar gums modified with 2,3-epoxypropyl trimethylammonium chloride can be used.
[0301] Examples include products with the INCI names "HYDRXYPROPYL GUAR HYDROXYPROPYLTRIMONIUM CHLORIDE" and "GUAR HYDROXYPROPYL-TRIMONIUM CHLORIDE". Such products are marketed, in particular, under the names JAGUAR C13S, JAGUAR C15, JAGUAR C17 or JAGUAR C162 by the company Solvay.
[0302] Among the cationic polysaccharides that could be used, cationic derivatives of cassia gum, in particular those containing quaternary ammonium groups; in particular, we can mention the product with the INCI name "CASSIA HYDROXYPROPYLTRIMONIUM CHLORIDE".
[0303] (3) polymers consisting of piperazinyl motifs and alkylene divalent radicals or linear or branched chain hydroxyalkylene, possibly interrupted by oxygen, sulfur, nitrogen atoms or by aromatic or heterocyclic rings, as well as the oxidation and / or quaternization products of these polymers.
[0304] (4) water-soluble polyaminoamides, prepared in particular by polycondensation of an acidic compound with a polyamine; these polyaminoamides may be crosslinked by an epihalohydrin, a diepoxide, a dianhydride, an unsaturated dianhydride, a bis-unsaturated derivative, a bis-halohydrin, a bis-azetidinium, a bis-haloacyldiamine, an alkyl bis-halide or by an oligomer resulting from the reaction of a reactive bifunctional compound with respect to a bis-halohydrin, a bis-azetidinium, a bis-haloacyldiamine, an alkyl bis-halide, an epihalohydrin, a diepoxide or a bis-unsaturated derivative; the crosslinking agent being used in proportions ranging from 0.025 to 0.35 mole per amine group of the polyaminoamide; These polyaminoamides can be alkylated or, if they contain one or more tertiary amine functions, quaternized.
[0305] (5) polyaminoamide derivatives resulting from the condensation of polyalkoylenes Polyamines are derived from polycarboxylic acids followed by alkoxylation with bifunctional agents. An example is the adipic acid-diacoylaminohydroxyalcoyldialoylene triamine polymer, in which the alkyl group has 1 to 4 carbon atoms and is preferably methyl, ethyl, or propyl. Among these derivatives, the adipic acid / dimethylaminohydroxypropyl / diethylene triamine polymers sold under the name "Cartaretine F, F4, or F8" by Sandoz are particularly noteworthy.
[0306] (6) polymers obtained by reaction of a polyalkylene polyamine comprising two primary amine groups and at least one secondary amine group with a dicarboxylic acid selected from diglycolic acid and saturated aliphatic dicarboxylic acids having from 3 to 8 carbon atoms; the molar ratio between the polyalkylene polyamine and the dicarboxylic acid preferably being between 0.8:1 and 1.4:1; the resulting polyaminoamide being made to react with epichlorohydrin in a molar ratio of epichlorohydrin to the secondary amine group of the polyaminoamide preferably being between 0.5:1 and 1.8:1. Polymers of this type are in particular marketed under the name "Hercosett 57" by Hercules Inc. or under the name "PD 170" or "Delsette 101" by Hercules in the case of the adipic acid / epoxypropyl / diethylenetriamine copolymer.
[0307] (7) alkyl diallyl amine or dialkyl diallyl ammonium cyclopolymers such as homopolymers or copolymers having as their main chain constituent motifs corresponding to formulas (I) or (II): ----CR,. XC(R,2)-CH< ---CR,, C(R12)-CH2- — r । ~ । i H,C CH2 HaG CHz ® y, U)
[0308] in which
[0309] - k and t are equal to 0 or 1, the sum k + t being equal to 1;
[0310] - R12 designates a hydrogen atom or a methyl radical;
[0311] - RIO and RI 1, independently of each other, designate an alkyl group in C1-C6, a C1-C5 hydroxyalkyl group, a Cl-C4 amidoalkyl group; or RIO and RI 1 may jointly designate, with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached, a heterocyclic group such as piperidinyl or morpholinyl; RIO and RI 1, independently of each other, preferably designate a C1-C4 alkyl group;
[0312] - Y- is an anion such as bromide, chloride, acetate, borate, citrate, tartrate, bisulfate, bisulfite, sulfate, phosphate.
[0313] We can cite more particularly the homopolymer of salts (for example chloride) of dimethyldiallylammonium (INCI name POLYQUATERNIUM-6) for example sold under the name "MERQUAT 100" by the company NALCO, and the copolymers of salts (for example chloride) of diallyldimethylammonium and acrylamide (INCI name POLYQUATERNIUM-7), marketed in particular under the name "MERQUAT 550" or "MERQUAT 7SPR".
[0314] (8) quaternary diammonium polymers comprising recurring motifs of formula: ^3 --N+ A. Ng — r m x - r x - in which:
[0315] - R13, R14, R15 and R16, whether identical or different, represent radicals aliphatic, alicyclic, or arylaliphatic compounds comprising 1 to 20 carbon atoms or hydroxyalkylaliphatic radicals in Cl-Cl2,
[0316] or R13, R14, R15 and R16, together or separately, together with the nitrogen atoms to which they are attached, form heterocycles possibly comprising a second heteroatom other than nitrogen
[0317] or R13, R14, R15 and R16 represent a linear or branched C1-C6 alkyl radical substituted by a nitrile, ester, acyl, amide or -CO-O-R17-D or -CO-NH-R17-D group where R17 is an alkylene and D is a quaternary ammonium group;
[0318] - Al and B1 represent polymethylene divalent groups comprising of 2 to 20 carbon atoms, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and which may contain, bonded to or intercalated in the main chain, one or more aromatic rings, or one or more oxygen, sulfur, or sulfoxide, sulfone, disulfide, amino, alkylamino, hydroxyl, quaternary ammonium, ureido, amide or ester groups, and
[0319] - X designates an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid;
[0320] it being understood that Al,R13 andR15 can form with the two nitrogen atoms to which they are attached a piperazine ring;
[0321] Furthermore, if Al designates a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkylene or hydroxyalkylene radical, B1 can also designate a (CH2)n-CO-D-OC-(CH2)p- group, with n and p, identical or different, being integers ranging from 2 to 20, and D designating:
[0322] a) a glycol remnant of formula -OZO-, where Z denotes a linear or branched hydrocarbon radical or a group corresponding to one of the following formulas: -(CH2CH2O)x-CH2CH2- and -[CH2CH(CH3)O]y-CH2CH(CH3)- where x and y denote an integer from 1 to 4, representing a defined and unique degree of polymerization or any number from 1 to 4 representing an average degree of polymerization;
[0323] b) a bis-secondary diamine residue such as a piperazine derivative;
[0324] c) a bis-primary diamine remnant of formula -NH-Y-NH- where Y denotes a radical linear or branched hydrocarbon, or the divalent radical -CH2-CH2-SS-CH2-CH2-;
[0325] d) a ureylene group of formula -NH-CO-NH- .
[0326] Preferably, X is an anion such as chloride or bromide. These polymers have a number-average molar mass (Mn) generally between 1000 and 100000.
[0327] One can cite in particular polymers which are made up of recurring motifs conforming to the formula: R- R~ K i + "N (CH2)-N-(CH2)p — r2 x 'r4
[0328] in which RI, R2, R3 and R4, identical or different, denote an alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, n and p are integers ranging from 2 to 20, and X- is an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid.
[0329] A particularly preferred compound is that for which RI, R2, R3 and R4 represent a methyl radical, n=3, p=6 and X = Cl, named Hexadimethrine chloride according to INCI nomenclature (CTFA).
[0330] (9) quaternary polyammonium polymers comprising motifs of formula: T 8 — N+ - (CH,)- NH - CO - (CH j y. I z 4 "(V)
[0331] in which:
[0332] - R18, R19, R20 and R21, whether identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a methyl, ethyl, propyl, [3-hydroxyethyl, [3-hydroxypropyl or -CH2CH2(OCH2CH2)pOH radical, where p is equal to 0 or an integer between 1 and 6, provided that R18, R19, R20 and R21 do not simultaneously represent a hydrogen atom,
[0333] - r and s, whether identical or different, are integers between 1 and 6,
[0334] - q is equal to 0 or to an integer between 1 and 34,
[0335] - X- denotes an anion such as a halide,
[0336] - A denotes a divalent radical of a dihalide or preferably represents -CH2- CH2-O-CH2-CH2-.
[0337] Examples include the products "Mirapol® A 15", "Mirapol® ADI", "Mirapol® AZ1" and "Mirapol® 175" sold by the company Miranol.
[0338] (10) Quaternary polymers of vinylpyrrolidone and vinylimidazole such as for example, products marketed under the names Luviquat® FC 905, FC 550 and FC 370 by BASF
[0339] (11) Polyamines such as Polyquart® H sold by COGNIS, referenced under the name "POLYETHYLENEGLYCOL (15) TALLOW POLYAMINE" in the CTFA dictionary.
[0340] (12) polymers comprising in their structure:
[0341] (a) one or more motifs corresponding to the following formula (A): (HAS)
[0342] (b) possibly one or more motifs corresponding to the following formula (B): CH,—CH ' I (b; NH—CH II O
[0343] In other words, these polymers can be chosen in particular from homo- or copolymers comprising one or more motifs derived from vinylamine and possibly one or more motifs derived from vinylformamide.
[0344] Preferably, these cationic polymers are chosen from polymers comprising, in their structure, 5 to 100% by moles of motifs corresponding to formula (A) and 0 to 95% by moles of motifs corresponding to formula (B), preferably 10 to 100% by moles of motifs corresponding to formula (A) and 0 to 90% by moles of motifs corresponding to formula (B).
[0345] These polymers can be obtained, for example, by partial hydrolysis of polyvinylformamide. This hydrolysis can be carried out in acidic or basic media.
[0346] The average molecular mass by weight of said polymer, measured by light diffraction, can vary from 1000 to 3,000,000 g / mol, preferably from 10,000 to 1,000,000 and more particularly from 100,000 to 500,000 g / mol.
[0347] Polymers comprising motifs of formula (A) and possibly motifs of formula (B) are notably sold under the name LUPAMIN by BASF, such as, for example, and without limitation, the products offered under the name LUPAMIN 9095, LUPAMIN 5095, LUPAMIN 1095, LUPAMIN 9030 (or LUVIQUAT 9030) and LUPAMIN 9010.
[0348] Preferably, the cationic polymers that can be used in the context of the invention are chosen from, alone or in mixtures, the following:
[0349] - polymers of family (7) and in particular homopolymers or copolymers of salts (e.g., chloride) of diallyldimethylammonium; and
[0350] - cationic polysaccharides.
[0351] Preferably, the total content of cationic polymer(s) is in the range of 0.005% to 15% by weight, more preferably 0.01% to 10% by weight, more preferably 0.01% to 8% by weight, better 0.05% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the liquid phase of the biphasic cosmetic composition.
[0352] The silicones usable as conditioning agents according to the invention can be chosen from among the amino silicones, the non-amino silicones, and their mixtures.
[0353] The silicone(s) used as conditioning agent(s) are different from the cationic polymers as described above, and from the fixing polymer(s) cationic agents used as fixing agents in the cosmetic composition according to the invention.
[0354] By "silicone" is meant all organosilicon polymers or oligomers with linear or cyclic, branched or cross-linked structure, of variable molecular weight, obtained by polymerization and / or polycondensation of suitably functionalized silanes, and consisting essentially of a repetition of principal motifs in which silicon atoms are linked together by oxygen atoms (siloxane bond -Si-O-Si-), with hydrocarbon radicals possibly substituted, being directly linked via a carbon atom to said silicon atoms; and more particularly dialkylsiloxane polymers, amino silicones, dimethiconols.
[0355] The non-amine silicones that may be used may be soluble or insoluble in the liquid phase of the cosmetic composition according to the invention; they may be in the form of oil, wax, resin or gum; silicone oils and gums are preferred.
[0356] Silicones are described in detail in particular in Walter NOLL's book "Chemistry and Technology of Silicones" (1968), Academy Press.
[0357] Volatile silicones may be selected from those having a boiling point between 60 and 260°C (at atmospheric pressure 1 atm), in particular from:
[0358] i) cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes comprising 3 to 7 silicon atoms, preferably 4 to 5, such as
[0359] - octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane (D4) and decamethylcyclopentasiloxane (D5). Examples include products marketed under the name "VOLATILE SILICONE 7207" by UNION CARBIDE or "SILBIONE 70045 V 2" by RHODIA, "VOLATILE SILICONE 7158" by UNION CARBIDE, "SILBIONE 70045 V 5" by RHODIA.
[0360] - cyclocopolymers of the dimethylsiloxane / methylalkylsiloxane type with structure chemical: ।— DD'--------DD' —i CK 1 CH, ri / with D: — “ $— with D': — If — O — CH, C8H,7
[0361] One example is "VOLATILE SILICONE FZ 3109" marketed by the company UNION CARBIDE.
[0362] - mixtures of cyclic silicones with organic compounds silicon derivatives, such as the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and tetratrimethylsilylpentaerythritol (50 / 50) and the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and oxy-l,l'-(hexa-2,2,2',2',3,3'-trimethylsilyloxy) bis-neopentane;
[0363] ii) linear polydialkylsiloxanes having 2 to 9 silicon atoms, which generally have a viscosity less than or equal to 5.10 6m2 / s at 25°C, such as decamethyltetrasiloxane.
[0364] Other silicones falling within this class are described in the article published in Cosmetics and toiletries, Vol. 91, Jan. 76, p. 27-32 - TODD & BYERS "Volatile Silicone fluids for cosmetics"; one can cite the product marketed under the name "SH 200" by the company TORAY SILICONE.
[0365] Among non-volatile silicones, one can cite, alone or in mixture, polydialkylsiloxanes and in particular polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS or dimethicone), polydiarylsiloxanes, polyalkylarylsiloxanes, silicone gums and resins, as well as non-amino organopolysiloxanes (or organomodified polysiloxanes, or organomodified silicones) which are polysiloxanes having in their structure one or more non-amino organofunctional groups, generally fixed by means of a hydrocarbon group, and preferably chosen from aryl groups, alkoxy groups and polyoxyethylenated and / or polyoxypropylenated groups.
[0366] Organomodified silicones may be polydiarylsiloxanes, in particular polydiphenylsiloxanes, and polyalkylarylsiloxanes functionalized with the organofunctional groups mentioned above. Polyalkylarylsiloxanes are particularly chosen from among polydimethyl / methylphenylsiloxanes, linear and / or branched polydimethyl / diphenylsiloxanes.
[0367] Among organomodified silicones, organopolysiloxanes comprising:
[0368] - polyoxyethylene and / or polyoxypropylene groups comprising possibly C6-C24 alkyl groups such as dimethicone copolyols, and in particular those marketed by DOW CORNING under the name DC 1248 or SILWET® L 722, L 7500, L 77, L 711 oils from UNION CARBIDE; or alkyl(Ci2)-methicone copolyols, and in particular those marketed by DOW CORNING under the name Q2-5200;
[0369] - thiol groups, such as products marketed under the names “GP 72 A” and “GP 71” from GENESEE;
[0370] - alkoxylated groups, such as the product marketed under the name "SILICONE COPOLYMER F-755" by SWS SILICONES and ABIL WAX® 2428, 2434 and 2440 by GOLDSCHMIDT;
[0371] - hydroxylated groups, such as polyorganosiloxanes with functional hydroxyalkyl;
[0372] - acyloxyalkyl groups such as the polyorganosiloxanes described in the US patent-A-4957732.
[0373] - anionic groups of the carboxylic acid type, such as for example described in EP186507, or of the alkyl-carboxylic type such as the product X-22-3701E from the company SHIN-ETSU; or of the 2-hydroxyalkylsulfonate or 2-hydroxyalkylthiosulfate type, such as the products marketed by the company GOLDSCHMIDT under the names "ABIL® S201" and "ABIL® S255".
[0374] Silicones can also be selected from polydialkylsiloxanes, the principal examples of which are polydimethylsiloxanes with trimethylsilyl terminal groups (CTFA: dimethicone). The following commercial products are examples of these polydialkylsiloxanes:
[0375] - SILBIONE® oils of series 47 and 70 047 or MIRASIL® oils marketed by RHODIA such as, for example, oil 70 047 V 500 000;
[0376] - the MIRASIL® series oils marketed by the RHODIA company;
[0377] - oils in the 200 series from DOW CORNING such as DC200 having viscosity 60,000 mm2 / s;
[0378] - VISCASIL® oils from MOMENTIVE PERFORMANCE MATERIALS and certain oils from the SF series (SF 96, SF 18) from MOMENTIVE PERFORMANCE MATERIALS.
[0379] We can also mention polydimethylsiloxanes with terminal dimethylsilanol groups (CTFA: dimethiconol) such as the oils of the 48 series of the RHODIA company.
[0380] In this class of polydialkylsiloxanes, we can also mention the products marketed under the names "ABIL WAX® 9800 and 9801" by the company GOLDSCHMIDT which are polydialkyl (C1-C20) siloxanes.
[0381] Silicones more particularly usable according to the invention are mixtures such as:
[0382] - mixtures formed from a polydimethylsiloxane hydroxylated at the end of chain, or dimethiconol (CTFA) and a cyclic polydimethylsiloxane also called cyclomethicone (CTFA) such as the product Q2-1401 marketed by the DOW CORNING company.
[0383] Polyalkylarylsiloxanes are particularly chosen from among polydimethyl / methylphenylsiloxanes, linear and / or branched polydimethyl / diphenylsiloxanes with viscosities ranging from 1.105 to 5.10 2m2 / s at 25°C.
[0384] Among these polyalkylarylsiloxanes, we can mention the products marketed under the following names:
[0385] - SILBIONE® oils from the 70 641 series of RHODIA;
[0386] - the oils from the RHODORSIL® 70 633 and 763 series of RHODIA;
[0387] - DOW CORNING 556 COSMETIC GRAD FLUID oil from DOW CORNING;
[0388] - BAYER's PK series silicones such as product PK20;
[0389] - silicones from the PN, PH series of BAYER such as the PN1000 and PH1000 products;
[0390] - certain oils from the SF series of MOMENTIVE PERFORMANCE MATERIALS such as SF 1023, SF 1154, SF 1250, SF 1265.
[0391] The non-amine silicones most particularly preferred according to the invention are the trimethylsiloxanes with terminal groups (CTFA: dimethicone).
[0392] Silicones that can be used in cosmetic composition as a conditioning agent may be amino silicones.
[0393] Aminated silicone means any silicone comprising at least one primary, secondary, tertiary amine or one quaternary ammonium group.
[0394] The amino silicones that can be used according to the present invention may be volatile or non-volatile, cyclic, linear or branched, and preferably have a viscosity ranging from 5*106 to 2.5 m2 / s at 25°C, for example from 1*105 to 1 m2 / s. Preferably, the additional amino silicones are chosen from among the non-volatile liquid silicones (25°C, 1 atm).
[0395] Preferably, the amino silicone(s) are chosen from, alone or in mixtures, the following compounds:
[0396] A) polysiloxanes corresponding to formula (la):
[0397] in which x' and y' are integers such that the average molecular mass by weight (Mw) is between 5000 and 500000 g / mol;
[0398] B) Amino silicones conforming to formula (lia):
[0399] R'aG3 a-Si(OSiG2)n-(OSiGbR'2b)mO-SiG3 a -R'a (Ha)
[0400] in which:
[0401] - G, identical or different, designates a hydrogen atom, a phenyl group, OH, alkyl in C1-C8, for example methyl or alkoxy in C1-C8, for example methoxy, - a, a', whether identical or different, denote 0 or an integer from 1 to 3, in particular 0, provided that at least one of a or a' is equal to zero,
[0402] - b denotes 0 or 1, in particular 1,
[0403] - m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) varies from 1 to 2000, in particular from 50 to 150, where n can represent a number from 0 to 1999, and in particular from 49 to 149, and m can represent a number from 1 to 2000, and in particular from 1 to 10; and
[0404] - R', identical or different, denotes a monovalent radical of formula -CqH2qL in where q is a number from 2 to 8, and L is an amine group possibly quatemized chosen from the groups: -NR”-QN(R”)2, -N(R”)2, -N+(R”)3 A, -N+H(R”)2 A, -N+H2(R”) A, -NR”-Q-N+(R”)H2 A, -NR”-Q-N+(R”)2H A and -NR”-Q-N+(R”)3 A, in which R”, identical or different, denotes hydrogen, phenyl, benzyl, or a monovalent saturated hydrocarbon radical, for example a Ci-C20 alkyl radical; Q denotes a group of formula CrH2r, linear or branched, r being an integer from 2 to 6, preferably from 2 to 4; and A represents a cosmetically acceptable anion, in particular a halide such as fluoride, chloride, bromide or iodide.
[0405] Preferably, the amino silicones of formula (lia) may be selected from:
[0406] (i) the "trimethylsilylamodimethicone" silicones conforming to formula (III):
[0407] in which m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) varies from 1 to 2000, preferably from 20 to 1000, in particular from 50 to 600, better from 50 to 150; n being able to designate a number from 0 to 1999, and in particular from 49 to 149 and m being able to designate a number from 1 to 2000, and in particular from 1 to 10.
[0408] (ii) silicones of the following formula (IV):
[0409]
[0410]
[0411]
[0412]
[0413]
[0414]
[0415] in which: - m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) varies from 1 to 1000, in particular from 50 to 250 and more particularly from 100 to 200; n denoting a number from 0 to 999 and in particular from 49 to 249 and more particularly from 125 to 175 and m denoting a number from 1 to 1000, in particular from 1 to 10, more particularly from 1 to 5; and - Ri, R2, R3, identical or different, represent a hydroxy or alkoxy radical in C1-C4, at least one of the radicals Ri to R3 designating an alkoxy radical. Preferably, the alkoxy radical is a methoxy radical. The hydroxy / alkoxy molar ratio preferably ranges from 0.2:1 to 0.4:1 and preferably from 0.25:1 to 0.35:1 and more particularly is equal to 0.3:1. The average molecular mass by weight (Mw) of these silicones preferably ranges from 2000 to 1000000 g / mol, more particularly from 3500 to 200000 g / mol. (iii) silicones of the following formula (V):
[0416]
[0417]
[0418] in which: - p and q are numbers such that the sum (p + q) varies from 1 to 1000, in particular from 50 to 350, and more particularly from 150 to 250; p denoting a number from 0 to 999, and in particular from 49 to 349, and more particularly from 159 to 239, and q denoting a number from 1 to 1000, in particular from 1 to 10, and more particularly from 1 to 5; and - Ri, R2, different, represent a hydroxy or alkoxy radical in C1-C4, at least one of the radicals Ri or R2 designating an alkoxy radical. Preferably, the alkoxy radical is a methoxy radical.
[0420] The hydroxy / alkoxy molar ratio generally ranges from 1:0.8 to 1:1.1 and preferably from 1:0.9 to 1:1 and more particularly is equal to 1:0.95.
[0421] The average molecular mass by weight (Mw) of silicone is preferably from 2000 to 200000 g / mol, more preferably from 5000 to 100000 g / mol and in particular from 10000 to 50000 g / mol.
[0422] Commercial products containing structural (IV) or (V) silicones may include in their composition one or more other amino silicones with a structure different from the (IV) or (V) formulas. A product containing structural (IV) amino silicones is offered by WACKER under the name BELSIL® ADM 652. A product containing structural (V) amino silicones is offered by WACKER under the name Fluid WR 1300®. Another product containing structural (XIV) amino silicones is offered by WACKER under the name Belsil ADM LOG 1®.
[0423] When these amino silicones are used, a particularly interesting embodiment is their use as an oil-in-water emulsion. The oil-in-water emulsion may include one or more surfactants. The surfactants may be of any type, but preferably cationic and / or nonionic. The average number size of the silicone particles in the emulsion generally ranges from 3 nm to 500 nanometers. Preferably, particularly as amino silicones of formula (V), microemulsions are used with an average particle size ranging from 5 nm to 60 nm (inclusive) and more particularly from 10 nm to 50 nm (inclusive). Thus, according to the invention, the amino silicone microemulsions of formula (V) offered under the names FINISH CT 96 E® or SLM 28020® by WACKER can be used.
[0424] (iv) silicones of the following formula (VI): s J m (VU
[0425] in which:
[0426] - m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) varies from 1 to 2000 and in a particular number from 50 to 150, where n represents a number from 0 to 1999, and in particular from 49 to 149, and m represents a number from 1 to 2000, and in particular from 1 to 10; and
[0427] - A denotes a linear or branched alkylene radical having from 4 to 8 carbon atoms and preferably 4 carbon atoms. This radical is preferably linear.
[0428] The average molecular weight (Mw) of these amine-based silicones preferably ranges from 2000 to 1,000,000 g / mol and more particularly from 3500 to 200,000 g / mol. A silicone meeting this specification is, for example, DOW CORNING's XIAMETER MEM 8299 EMULSION.
[0429] (v) silicones of the following formula (VII):
[0430] in which:
[0431] - m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) varies from 1 to 2000 and in a particular number from 50 to 150, where n can represent a number from 0 to 1999, and in particular from 49 to 149, and m can represent a number from 1 to 2000, and in particular from 1 to 10; and
[0432] - A denotes a linear or branched alkylene radical having from 4 to 8 carbon atoms and preferably 4 carbon atoms. This radical is preferably branched.
[0433] The average molecular weight (Mw) of these amino silicones preferably ranges from 500 to 1,000,000 g / mol and more particularly from 1,000 to 200,000 g / mol. A silicone meeting this specification is, for example, DOW CORNING's DC2-8566 Amino Fluid.
[0434] C) Amino silicones conforming to formula (VIII):
[0435] in which:
[0436] - R5 represents a monovalent hydrocarbon radical having from 1 to 18 atoms of carbon, and in particular an alkyl radical in Ci-Ci8, or alkenyl in C2-Ci8, for example methyl;
[0437] - R6 represents a divalent hydrocarbon radical, in particular an alkylene radical in C1-C18 or a divalent alkyleneoxy radical in Ci-Ci8, for example in CrC8 linked to Si by a SiC bond;
[0438] - Q is an anion such as a halide ion, in particular chloride or an acid salt organic, in particular acetate;
[0439] - r represents an average statistical value ranging from 2 to 20, in particular from 2 to 8;
[0440] and - s represents an average statistical value ranging from 20 to 200, in particular from 20 to 50.
[0441] D) quaternary ammonium silicones of formula (IX) (iX)
[0442] in which:
[0443] - R7, identical or different, represent a monovalent hydrocarbon radical having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular an alkyl radical in Ci-Ci8, an alkenyl radical in C2-Ci8 or a ring comprising 5 or 6 carbon atoms, for example methyl;
[0444] - R6 represents a divalent hydrocarbon radical, in particular an alkylene radical in CrCi8 or a divalent alkyleneoxy radical in Ci-Ci8, for example in CrC8 linked to Si by a SiC bond;
[0445] - R8, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, a radical monovalent hydrocarbon having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular an alkyl radical in Ci-Ci8, an alkenyl radical in C2-Ci8, a -R6-NHCOR7 radical;
[0446] - X is an anion such as a halide ion, in particular chloride or an acid salt organic, in particular acetate; and
[0447] - r represents an average statistical value ranging from 2 to 200, in particular from 5 to 100. These silicones are described for example in application EP-A-0530974; in particular, the silicone with INCI name QUATERNIUM 80 can be mentioned.
[0448] Silicones falling within this class are the silicones marketed by the company GOLDSCHMIDT under the names AB IL QU AT 3270, AB IL QU AT 3272, ABIL QUAT 3474.
[0449] E) Amino silicones of formula (X):
[0450] in which:
[0451] - Rb R2, R3 and R4, identical or different, designate a C1-C4 alkyl radical or a phenyl group,
[0452] - R5 designates a C1-C4 alkyl radical or a hydroxyl group,
[0453] - n is an integer ranging from 1 to 5,
[0454] - m is an integer ranging from 1 to 5, and
[0455] - x is chosen such that the amine index varies from 0.01 to 1 meq / g;
[0456] F) multiblock polyoxyalkylened amine silicones, of type (AB)n, A being a polysiloxane block and B being a polyoxyalkylened block comprising at least one amine group.
[0457] Said silicones are preferably made up of repeating units of the following general formulas:
[0458] [-(SiMe2O)xSiMe2-RN(R”)-R'-O(C2H4O)a(C3H6O)b-R'-N(H)-R-] or else
[0459] [-(SiMe2O)xSiMe2-RN(R' ' )-R' -O(C2H4O)a(C3H6O)b-] in which:
[0460] - a is an integer greater than or equal to 1, preferably from 5 to 200, plus particularly ranging from 10 to 100;
[0461] - b is an integer between 0 and 200, preferably from 4 to 100, plus particularly between 5 and 30;
[0462] - x is an integer ranging from 1 to 10000, more particularly from 10 to 5000;
[0463] - R' ' is a hydrogen atom or a methyl;
[0464] - R, identical or different, represent a divalent hydrocarbon radical in C2-Ci2, linear or branched, possibly comprising one or more heteroatoms such as oxygen; preferably, R, identical or different, denote an ethylene radical, a linear or branched propylene radical, a linear or branched butylene radical, or a CH2CH2CH2OCH2CH(OH)CH2- radical; preferably R denotes a CH2CH2CH2OCH2CH(OH)CH2- radical; and
[0465] - R', identical or different, represent a divalent hydrocarbon radical in C2- Ci2, linear or branched, possibly containing one or more heteroatoms such as oxygen; preferably, R', identical or different, designates a radical ethylene, a linear or branched propylene radical, a linear or branched butylene radical, or a CH2CH2CH2OCH2CH(OH)CH2- radical; preferably R' denotes -CH(CH3)-CH2-.
[0466] The siloxane blocks preferably represent 50 and 95% by moles of the total weight of the silicone, more particularly 70 to 85% by moles.
[0467] The amine content is preferably between 0.02 and 0.5 meq / g of copolymer in a 30% solution in dipropylene glycol, more particularly between 0.05 and 0.2.
[0468] The average molecular mass by weight (Mw) of silicone is preferably between 5000 and 1000000 g / mol, more particularly between 10000 and 200000 g / mol. Examples include silicones marketed under the names Silsoft A-843 or Silsoft A+ by Momentive.
[0469] G) Amino silicones of formulas (XI) and (XII): (XI)
[0470] in which:
[0471] - R, R' and R”, identical or different, denote an alkyl group in C1-C4 or a hydroxyl group,
[0472] - A denotes a C3 alkylene radical; and
[0473] - m and n are numbers such that the average molecular mass in weight of the The compound value is between 5000 and 500000. (XII)
[0474] in which:
[0475] - x and y are numbers ranging from 1 to 5000; preferably x ranges from 10 to 2000, and more preferably from 100 to 1000; preferably from 1 to 100;
[0476] - Ri and R2, identical or different, preferably identical, designate a group alkyl, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 12 to 20 carbon atoms; and
[0477] - A denotes a linear or branched alkylene radical having from 2 to 8 carbon atoms.
[0478] Preferably, A comprises from 3 to 6 carbon atoms, more preferably 4 carbon atoms; preferably A is branched. We can mention in particular the following divalent groups: -CH2CH2CH2- and -CH2CH(CH3)CH2-.
[0479] Preferably, Ri and R2 are independent saturated linear alkyl groups comprising 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 24 carbon atoms and in particular 12 to 20 carbon atoms; particular examples include dodecyl, tetradecyl, pentadecyl, hexadecyl, heptadecyl, octadecyl, nonadecyl and eicosyl groups; and preferably, Ri and R2, whether identical or different, are selected from the hexadecyl (cetyl) and octadecyl (stearyl) groups.
[0480] Preferably, in the silicone of formula (XII), there is:
[0481] - x ranging from 10 to 2,000, and in particular from 100 to 1,000;
[0482] - ranging from 1 to 100;
[0483] - A comprising from 3 to 6 carbon atoms and in particular 4 carbon atoms; Preferably, A is branched; and more particularly, A is chosen from the following divalent groups: -CH2CH2CH2 and -CH2CH(CH3)CH2-; and
[0484] - Ri and R2 being independently saturated linear alkyl groups comprising 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 24 carbon atoms and in particular 12 to 20 carbon atoms; chosen especially from the dodecyl, tetradecyl, pentadecyl, hexadecyl, heptadecyl, octadecyl, nonadecyl and eicosyl groups; preferably, Ri and R2, identical or different, being chosen from the hexadecyl (cetyl) and octadecyl (stearyl) groups.
[0485] A preferred silicone of formula (XII) is bis-cetearylamodimethicone. An example is the amino silicone sold under the name SILSOFT AX by Momentive.
[0486] H) polysiloxanes and in particular polydimethylsiloxanes, comprising primary amine groups at one end of the chain or on the side chains, such as those of formula (XIV), (XV) or (XVI): (XV) |y' '4 f è i—• o -- ss -.4-4.-0-4 4—o ™ s-— * Ô ô ' -4-- 4^ (w
[0487] In formula (XIV), the values of n and m are such that the average molecular mass by weight of the amino silicon is between 1000 and 55000. Examples of formula (XIV) amino silicones include products sold under the names AMS-132, AMS-152, AMS-162, AMS-163, AMS-191 and AMS-1203 by Gelest and KF-8015 by Shin Etsu.
[0488] In formula (XV), the value of n is such that the average molecular mass by weight of the amino silicon is between 500 and 3000.
[0489] As an example of formula (XV) amine silicones, we can cite the products sold under the names MCR-A11 and MCR-A12 by the company Gelest.
[0490] In formula (XVI), the values of n and m are such that the average molecular mass by weight of the amino silicon is between 500 and 50000.
[0491] Examples of amino silicones of formula (XVI) include aminopropyl phenyl trimethicone sold under the name DC 2-2078 Fluid by Dow Corning.
[0492] The composition according to the invention may also comprise, as silicone, an amino silicone corresponding to the formula (XVIII) below:
[0493] in which:
[0494] - n is a number between 1 and 1000, preferably between 10 and 500, better still between 25 and 100, even better between 50 and 80;
[0495] - m is a number between 1 and 200, preferably between 1 and 100, better between 1 and 10, and even better, between 1 and 5;
[0496] - R' is a linear or branched divalent alkylene radical, having from 1 to 6 atoms of carbon, specifically 2 to 5 carbon atoms;
[0497] - R' ' is a linear or branched divalent alkylene radical, having from 1 to 6 atoms of carbon, specifically from 1 to 5 carbon atoms; and
[0498] - R'”, identical or different, preferably identical, are alkyl radicals linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 24 carbon atoms, in particular 12 to 18 carbon atoms; said radicals optionally being substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups OH.
[0499] Preferably, R' is a linear or branched divalent alkylene radical, preferably branched, comprising 1 to 6 carbon atoms, in particular 2 to 5 carbon atoms; in particular a -CH2-CH2-CH2-, -CH2-CH(CH3)-CH2- or -CH2-CH2-CH(CH3)- radical.
[0500] Preferably, R' ' is a linear alkylene divalent radical comprising 1 to 6 carbon atoms, in particular 1 to 4 carbon atoms; in particular a -CH2-CH2- radical.
[0501] Preferably, the identical or different R's are saturated linear alkyl radicals comprising 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 24 carbon atoms, in particular 12 to 18 carbon atoms; in particular, dodecyl, C13, tetradecyl, pentadecyl, hexadecyl, heptadecyl, and octadecyl radicals may be mentioned; preferably, the identical or different R's are chosen from among the saturated linear alkyl radicals having 12 to 16 carbon atoms, in particular at C13, C14, Cl5, alone or in mixtures, and better represent a mixture of C13, C14 and C15. Preferably, the R's are identical.
[0502] When comprising one or more silicones, preferably the composition according to the invention comprises one or more silicones selected from, alone or in mixtures, non-volatile liquid non-amino silicones, and in particular polydialkylsiloxanes and more particularly polydimethylsiloxanes, especially polydimethylsiloxanes with trimethylsilyl terminal groups; and / or non-volatile liquid amino silicones, such as amodimethicones; as well as mixtures thereof. Better still, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more amodimethicones.
[0503] When it comprises one or more silicones as a conditioning agent, the cosmetic composition according to the invention preferably comprises the silicone(s) in a total content of 0.1 to 10% by weight, better of 0.5 to 8% by weight, preferably of 1 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the liquid phase of the biphasic cosmetic composition.
[0504] Non-siliconized fats can be used as conditioning agents in the cosmetic composition of the invention.
[0505] According to the invention, fats are different from fatty acids.
[0506] The term "fatty substance" means an organic compound insoluble in water at 25°C and atmospheric pressure (1.013 x 10⁵ Pa) (solubility less than 5% by weight, and preferably less than 1% by weight, and even more preferably less than 0.1% by weight). Its structure includes at least one hydrocarbon chain comprising at least six carbon atoms and / or a chain of at least two siloxane groups. Furthermore, fatty substances are generally soluble in organic solvents under the same temperature and pressure conditions, such as chloroform, dichloromethane, carbon tetrachloride, ethanol, benzene, toluene, tetrahydrofuran (THF), petrolatum, or decamethylcyclopentasiloxane.
[0507] The fats usable in the present invention are neither (poly)oxyalkylated nor (poly)glycerolated, nor siliconed.
[0508] The term "non-siliconized fat" means a fat that does not contain Si-O bonds and the term "siliconized fat" means a fat that contains at least one Si-O bond.
[0509] The useful fats according to the invention can be liquid fats (or oils) and / or solid fats. Liquid fats are defined as fats having a melting point less than or equal to 25°C and at atmospheric pressure (1.013 x 10⁵ Pa) and solid fats are defined as fats having a melting point (mp) strictly greater than 25°C (mp > 25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (1.013 x 10⁵ Pa).
[0510] For the purposes of the present invention, the melting point corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed in thermal analysis (differential scanning calorimetry or DSC) as described in ISO 11357-3; 1999. The melting point can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example, the calorimeter sold under the name "MDSC 2920" by TA Instruments. In the present application, all melting points are determined at atmospheric pressure (1.013 x 10⁵ Pa).
[0511] More particularly, the liquid fat or fats may be chosen from C6 to C16 liquid hydrocarbons, liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms, non-siliconized oils of animal origin, triglyceride-type oils of vegetable or synthetic origin, fluorinated oils, liquid fatty alcohols, liquid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols other than triglycerides, and mixtures thereof.
[0512] It is recalled that alcohols, esters and fatty acids more particularly have at least one hydrocarbon group, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, comprising from 6 to 40, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, possibly substituted, in particular by one or more hydroxyl groups (in particular 1 to 4). If they are unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three carbon-carbon double bonds, conjugated or not.
[0513] As regards liquid hydrocarbons in the C6 to C16 range, these may be linear, branched, possibly cyclic, and are preferably chosen from among the alkanes. By way of example, hexane, cyclohexane, undecane, dodecane, isododecane, tridecane, isoparaffins such as isohexadecane, isodecane, and mixtures thereof may be cited.
[0514] Liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms may be linear or branched, of mineral or synthetic origin, and are preferably chosen from paraffin or petrolatum (or mineral oil), polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam®, and mixtures thereof.
[0515] Perhydrosqualene is an example of an animal-derived hydrocarbon oil.
[0516] Triglyceride oils of vegetable or synthetic origin are preferably chosen from among liquid triglycerides of fatty acids comprising 6 to 30 carbon atoms, such as triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acid, or, for example, sunflower, corn, soybean, pumpkin, grapeseed, sesame, hazelnut, apricot, macadamia, arara, castor, and avocado oils, or caprylic / capric acid triglycerides such as those sold by Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol® 810, 812, and 818. by Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil, shea butter oil, and their mixtures.
[0517] As regards fluorinated oils, these may be chosen from the perfluoromethylcyclopentane and perfluoro-1,3-dimethylcyclohexane, sold under the names "FLUTEC® PCI" and "FLUTEC® PC3" by BNFL Fluorochemicals; perfluoro-1,2-dimethylcyclobutane; perfluoroalkanes such as dodecafluoropentane and tetradecafluorohexane, sold under the names "PF 5050®" and "PF 5060®" by 3M, or bromoperfluorooctyl sold under the name "FORALKYL®" by Atochem; nonafluoromethoxybutane and nonafluoroethoxyisobutane; perfluoromorpholine derivatives, such as 4-trifluoromethyl perfluoromorpholine sold under the name "PF 5052®" by 3M.
[0518] Liquid fatty alcohols suitable for implementing the invention are particularly chosen from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alcohols, preferably unsaturated or branched, having from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. These fatty alcohols are neither oxyalkylated nor glycerolated. Examples include octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleic alcohol, linolenic alcohol, ricinoleic alcohol, undecylenic alcohol, or linoleic alcohol, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, oleic alcohol is used.
[0519] With regard to liquid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols, other than the triglycerides mentioned above, one may mention in particular the esters of saturated or unsaturated mono- or poly-aliphatic acids, linear in Cl to C26 or branched in C3 to C26 and of saturated or unsaturated mono- or poly-aliphatic alcohols, linear in Cl to C26 or branched in C3 to C26, the total number of carbons of the esters being greater than or equal to 6, more advantageously greater than or equal to 10.
[0520] Preferably, for monoalcohol esters, at least one of the alcohol or acid is branched.
[0521] Among the monoesters, the following may be mentioned: dihydroabietyl behenate; octyldodecyl behenate; isocetyl behenate; isostearyl lactate; lauryl lactate; linoleyl lactate; oleyl lactate; isostearyl octanoate; isocetyl octanoate; octyl octanoate; decyl oleate; isocetyl isostearate; isocetyl laurate; isocetyl stearate; isodecyl octanoate; isodecyl oleate; isononyl isononanoate; isostearyl palmitate; methyl acetyl ricinoleate; octyl isononanoate; 2-ethylhexyl isononate; octyldodecyl erucate; oleyl erucate; ethyl and isopropyl palmitates, such as ethyl-2-hexyl palmitate and 2-octyldecyl palmitate; alkyl myristates such that 2-octyldodecyl isopropyl myristate; isobutyl stearate; 2-hexyldecyl laurate, and mixtures thereof.
[0522] Preferably among monoesters of monoacids and monoalcohols, ethyl and isopropyl palmitates, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl or ethyl myristate, isocetyl stearate, ethyl-2-hexyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof shall be used.
[0523] Esters of di- or tricarboxylic acids in C4 to C22 and of alcohols in Cl to C22 and esters of mono-, di-, or tricarboxylic acids and di-, tri-, tetra- or pentahydroxy alcohols in C2 to C26 can also be used.
[0524] Examples include: diethyl sebacate; diisopropyl sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; din-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; diisostearyl adipate; dioctyl maleate; glyceryl undecylenate; octyldodecyl stearoyl stearate; pentaerythrityl monoricinoleate; pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate; pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate; pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate; pentaerythrityl tetraoctanoate; propylene glycol dicaprylate; propylene glycol dicaprate; tridecyl erucate; triisopropyl citrate; triisotearyl citrate; glyceryl trilactate; glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate; propylene glycol dioctanoate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; diethylene glycol diisanonate; polyethylene glycol distearates, and mixtures thereof.
[0525] The composition may also include, as a fatty acid ester, esters and diesters of sugars of fatty acids in the C6 to C30 range, preferably in the C12 to C22 range. It should be noted that the term "sugar" means oxygenated hydrocarbon compounds possessing several alcohol functional groups, with or without aldehyde or ketone functional groups, and comprising at least four carbon atoms. These sugars may be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides, or polysaccharides other than the anionic polysaccharides described later.
[0526] Suitable sugars may be cited for example sucrose (or saccharose), glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose, lactose, and their derivatives in particular alkylated, such as methylated derivatives like methylglucose.
[0527] Sugar and fatty acid esters may be selected in particular from the group comprising the esters or mixtures of sugar esters described above and fatty acids in the ranges of C6 to C30, preferably C12 to C22, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated. If unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three carbon-carbon double bonds, conjugated or not.
[0528] Esters can also be selected from mono-, di-, tri- and tetra-esters, polyesters and their mixtures.
[0529] These esters may be, for example, oleate, laurate, palmitate, myristate, behenate, cocoate, stearate, linoleate, linolenate, caprate, arachidonate, or mixtures thereof, such as mixed oleo-palmitate, oleo-stearate, palmito-stearate esters.
[0530] In particular, mono- and di- esters are used, and in particular mono- or di- oleate, stearate, behenate, oleopalmitate, linoleate, linolenate, oleostearate, of sucrose, glucose or methylglucose, and mixtures thereof.
[0531] An example is the product sold under the name Glucate® DO by the company Amerchol, which is a methylglucose dioleate.
[0532] Preferably, a liquid ester of monoacid and monoalcohol will be used.
[0533] According to one embodiment, the CGA fats are chosen from the fats liquids, preferably from among liquid hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, vegetable oils, liquid fatty alcohols comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, liquid fatty esters comprising at least 6 carbon atoms, and mixtures thereof, more preferably from among vegetable oils.
[0534] Solid fats preferably have a viscosity greater than 2 Pa.s, measured at 25°C and at a shear rate of 1 s1.
[0535] The solid fat(s) are preferably chosen from solid fatty alcohols comprising 6 to 40 carbon atoms, solid esters of C9-C26 fatty acids and / or C9-C26 fatty alcohols, waxes, ceramides and mixtures thereof.
[0536] By "fatty alcohol" is meant a long-chain aliphatic alcohol comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, and comprising at least one hydroxyl group OH. These fatty alcohols are neither oxyalkylated nor glycerolated.
[0537] Solid fatty alcohols can be saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and comprise from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms. Preferably, solid fatty alcohols have the structure R-OH with R denoting a linear alkyl group, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxy groups, comprising from 8 to 40, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, better from 10 to 30, or even from 12 to 24 atoms, even better from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.
[0538] The solid fatty alcohols that may be used are preferably chosen from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched (mono)alcohols, preferably linear and saturated, comprising 8 to 40 carbon atoms, better 10 to 30, or even 12 to 24 atoms, even better 14 to 22 carbon atoms.
[0539] The solid fatty alcohols that may be used may be selected from, alone or in mixtures: myristic or myristyl alcohol (or 1-tetradecanol); cetyl alcohol (or 1-hexadecanol); stearyl alcohol (or 1-octadecanol); alcohol arachidyl (or 1-eicosanol); behenyl alcohol (or 1-docosanol); lignoceryl alcohol (or 1-tetracosanol); ceryl alcohol (or 1-hexacosanol); montanyyl alcohol (or 1-octacosanol); myricyl alcohol (or 1-triacontanol).
[0540] Preferably, the solid fatty alcohol is selected from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, myristic alcohol, arachidic alcohol, and mixtures thereof, such as cetylstearyl or cetearyl alcohol. Particularly preferred, the solid fatty alcohol is selected from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof, such as cetylstearyl or cetearyl alcohol.
[0541] The solid fatty acid and / or fatty alcohol esters that may be used are preferably selected from esters derived from C9-C26 carboxylic fatty acids and / or C9-C26 fatty alcohols.
[0542] Preferably, these solid fatty acid esters are esters of saturated linear or branched carboxylic acids comprising at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and more particularly from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, and of saturated linear or branched monoalcohols comprising at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and more particularly from 12 to 24 carbon atoms. The saturated carboxylic acids may optionally be hydroxylated, and are preferably monocarboxylic acids.
[0543] Esters of di- or tricarboxylic acids in C4-C22 and of alcohols in C1-C22 and esters of mono-, di- or tricarboxylic acids and of di-, tri-, tetra- or pentahydroxylated alcohols in C2-C26 can also be used.
[0544] Examples include octyldodecyl behenate, isocetyl behenate, cetyl lactate, stearyl octanoate, octyl octanoate, cetyl octanoate, decyl oleate, hexyl stearate, octyl stearate, myristyle stearate, cetyl stearate, stearyl stearate, octyl pelargonate, cetyl myristate, myristyle myristate, stearyl myristate, diethyl sebacate, diisopropyl sebacate, diisopropyl adipate, din-propyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, maleate dioctyl, octyl palmitate, myristyle palmitate, cetyl palmitate, stearyl palmitate, and mixtures thereof.
[0545] Preferably, the solid fatty acid and / or fatty alcohol esters are selected from C9-C26 alkyl palmitates, in particular myristyle, cetyl, stearyl palmitates; C9-C26 alkyl myristates such as cetyl myristate, stearyl myristate and myristyle myristate; C9-C26 alkyl stearates, in particular myristyle, cetyl and stearyl stearates; and mixtures thereof.
[0546] A wax, as defined in the present invention, is a lipophilic compound, solid at 25°C and atmospheric pressure, with a reversible solid / liquid phase change, a melting point above approximately 40°C and up to 200°C, and exhibiting an anisotropic crystalline structure in the solid state. In a way In general, the size of the wax crystals is such that they diffract and / or scatter light, giving the composition containing them a cloudy, more or less opaque appearance. By heating the wax to its melting point, it is possible to make it miscible with oils and form a microscopically homogeneous mixture, but by returning the mixture to room temperature, the wax recrystallizes, detectable both microscopically and macroscopically (opalescence).
[0547] In particular, the waxes suitable for the invention can be chosen from waxes of animal, vegetable, mineral origin, non-siliconized synthetic waxes and mixtures thereof.
[0548] Examples include hydrocarbon waxes, such as beeswax, particularly of biological origin, lanolin wax, and Chinese insect waxes; rice bran wax, Camauba wax, Candellila wax, Ouricury wax, Alfa wax, Berry wax, Shellac wax, Japanese wax and sumac wax; Montan wax, orange and lemon waxes, microcrystalline waxes, paraffins and ozokerite; polyethylene waxes, waxes obtained by Fisher-Tropsch synthesis and waxy copolymers, as well as their esters.
[0549] We can also mention microcrystalline waxes in C20 to C60, such as Microwax HW.
[0550] We can also mention PM 500 polyethylene wax marketed under the reference Permalen 50-L polyethylene.
[0551] We can also mention waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or vegetable oils having linear or branched fatty chains, in the C8 to C32 range. Among these, we can mention in particular isomerized jojoba oil, such as trans isomerized partially hydrogenated jojoba oil, in particular that manufactured or marketed by the company Desert Whale under the trade reference Iso-Jojoba-50®, hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, hydrogenated lanolin oil, and di-(trimethyloi-1,1,1 propane tetrastearate), in particular that sold under the name Hest 2T-4S® by the company HETERENE.
[0552] Waxes obtained by hydrogenation of esterified castor oil with cetyl alcohol, such as those sold under the names Phytowax ricin 16L64® and 22L73® by the company SOPHIM, can also be used.
[0553] As a wax, a C20 to C40 alkyl (hydroxystearyloxy)stearate (the alkyl group comprising 20 to 40 carbon atoms) can also be used, alone or in a mixture. Such a wax is notably sold under the name "Kester Wax". K 82 P®”, “Hydroxypolyester K 82 P®” and “Kester Wax K 80 P®” by the company KOSTER KEUNEN.
[0554] It is also possible to use microwaxes in the compositions of the invention;Examples include camauba microwaxes, such as the one marketed under the name MicroCare 350® by MICRO POWDERS; synthetic wax microwaxes, such as the one marketed under the name MicroEase 114S® by MICRO POWDERS; microwaxes made from a mixture of camauba wax and polyethylene wax, such as those marketed under the names Micro Care 300® and 310® by MICRO POWDERS; microwaxes made from a mixture of camauba wax and synthetic wax, such as the one marketed under the name Micro Care 325® by MICRO POWDERS; polyethylene microwaxes, such as those marketed under the names Micropoly 200®, 220®, 220L® and 250S® by MICRO POWDERS; and polytetrafluoroethylene microwaxes, such as those marketed under the names Microslip 519® and 519 L® by the company MICRO POWDERS. ;
[0555] Waxes are preferably chosen from mineral waxes such as paraffin wax, petroleum jelly, lignite or ozokerite; vegetable waxes such as cocoa butter or waxes from cork or sugar cane fibers, olive wax, rice wax, hydrogenated jojoba wax, Ouricoury wax, Camauba wax, Candelila wax, Alfa wax, or absolute flower waxes such as blackcurrant flower essential wax sold by the BERTIN company (France); waxes of animal origin such as beeswax or modified beeswax (cerabellina), spermaceti, lanolin wax and lanolin derivatives; microcrystalline waxes; and mixtures thereof.
[0556] Ceramides or ceramide analogues such as glycoceramides, which can be used in compositions according to the invention, are known; in particular, ceramides of classes I, II, III and V according to the DAWNING classification may be mentioned.
[0557] Ceramides or their analogues that may be used preferably conform to the following formula: R3CH(OH)CH(CH2OR2)(NHCOR1), in which:
[0558] RI designates an alkyl group, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, derived from C14-C30 fatty acids, this group being able to be substituted by a hydroxyl group in the alpha position, or a hydroxyl group in the omega position esterified by a saturated or unsaturated fatty acid in the C16-C30 position;
[0559] R2 denotes a hydrogen atony, a (glycosyl)n group, a (galactosyl)m group or a sulfogalactosyl group, in which n is an integer ranging from 1 to 4 and m is an integer ranging from 1 to 8;
[0560] R3 designates a C15-C26 hydrocarbon group, saturated or unsaturated in the alpha position, this group being able to be substituted by one or more Cl-C14 alkyl groups; it being understood that in the case of natural ceramides or glycoceramides, R3 may also designate an alpha-hydroxyalkyl group in C15-C26, the hydroxyl group being optionally esterified by an alpha-hydroxy acid in C16-C30.
[0561] The ceramides most particularly preferred are the compounds for which RI denotes a saturated or unsaturated alkyl derived from C16-C22 fatty acids; R2 denotes a hydrogen atom and R3 denotes a linear saturated C15 group.
[0562] Preferably, ceramides are used in which RI designates a saturated or unsaturated alkyl group derived from C14-C30 fatty acids; R2 designates a galactosyl or sulfogalactosyl group; and R3 designates a -CH=CH-(CH2)i2-CH3 group.
[0563] Compounds can also be used in which RI designates a saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical derived from C12-C22 fatty acids; R2 designates a galactosyl or sulfogalactosyl radical and R3 designates a C12-C22 hydrocarbon radical, saturated or unsaturated and preferably a -CH=CH-(CH2)i2-CH3 group.
[0564] As particularly preferred compounds, we may also mention 2-N-linoleoylamino-octadecane-l,3-diol; 2-N-oleoylamino-octadecane-l,3-diol; 2-N-palmitoylamino-octadecane-l,3-diol; 2-N-stearoylamino-octadecane-l,3-diol; 2-N-behenoylamino-octadecane-l,3-diol; 2-N-[2-hydroxy-palmitoyl]-amino-octadecane-l,3-diol; 2-N-stearoyl amino-octadecane-1,3,4-triol, and in particular N-stearoyl phytosphingosine, 2-N-palmitoylamino-hexadecane-1,3-diol, N-linoleoyldihydrosphingosine, N-oleoyldihydrosphingosine, N-pahnitoyldihydrosphingosine, N-stearoyldihydrosphingosine, and N-behenoyldihydrosphingosine, N-docosanoyl N-methyl-D-glucamine, N-(2-hydroxyethyl)-N-(3-cetyloxy-2-hydroxypropyl) cetyl acid amide, and bis-(N-hydroxyethyl N-cetyl)malonamide; and mixtures thereof. Preferably, N-oleoyldihydrosphingosine shall be used.
[0565] Solid fats are preferably chosen from solid fatty alcohols, in particular from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and their mixtures such as cetylstearyl or cetearyl alcohol, solid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols, and their mixtures.
[0566] Butters can also be used.
[0567] For the purposes of this invention, "butter" (also referred to as "pasty fat") means a lipophilic fatty compound with a reversible solid / liquid phase change and comprising, at a temperature of 25 °C and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg) a liquid fraction and a solid fraction. Preferably, the butter(s) according to the invention have a melting point above 25°C and a melting point below 60°C.
[0568] Preferably the particular butter(s) are of vegetable origin such as those described in Ullmann's Encyclopedia of Industrial Chemistry (“Fats and Fatty Oils”, A. Thomas, Published Online: 15 JUN 2000, DOI: 10.1002 / 14356007.al0_173, point 13.2.2.2. Shea Butter, Borneo Tallow, and Related Fats (Vegetable Butters)).
[0569] We can mention in particular shea butter, Nilotica Shea butter (Butyrospermum parkii), Galam butter (Butyrospermum parkii), Borneo butter or fat (tengkawang tallow) (Shorea stenoptera), Shorea butter, Illipe butter, Madhuca or Bassia Madhuca longifolia butter, mowrah butter (Madhuca Latifolia), Katiau butter (Madhuca mottleyana), Phulwara butter (M.butyracea), mango butter (Mangifera indica), Murumuru butter (Astrocaryum murumuru), Kokum butter (Garcinia Indica), Ucuuba butter (Virola sebifera), Tucuma butter, Painya (Kpangnan) butter (Pentadesma butyracea), coffee butter (Coffea arabica), apricot butter (Prunus Armeniaca), macadamia butter (Macadamia Ternifolia), grape seed butter (Vitis vinifera), avocado butter (Persea gratissima), olive butter (Olea europaea), sweet almond butter (Prunus amygdalus dulcis) and cocoa butter, sunflower butter.
[0570] Shea butter is an example of a preferred butter.
[0571] As is known, shea butter is extracted from the fruits (also called "almonds" or "nuts") of the Butyrospemim Parkii tree. Each fruit contains between 45 and 55% fat, which is usually extracted and refined.
[0572] Preferably, the solid fats are chosen from solid fatty alcohols comprising 6 to 40 carbon atoms, solid esters of C9-C26 fatty acids and / or C9-C26 fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof.
[0573] Preferably, the oil or oils in the cosmetic composition are chosen from liquid oils, solid oils, and mixtures thereof; more preferably from liquid hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, vegetable oils, liquid fatty alcohols comprising 6 to 40 carbon atoms, liquid fatty esters comprising at least 6 carbon atoms, solid fatty alcohols comprising 6 to 40 carbon atoms, solid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols derived from C9-C26 carboxylic acids and / or C9-C26 fatty alcohols, waxes, ceramides, and mixtures thereof,
[0574] Preferably, when present, the total content of non-siliconized fats in the cosmetic composition is in the range of 0.5% to 55% by weight, more preferably from 1% to 45% by weight, more preferably still from 5% to 35% by weight, better from 10% to 30% by weight, even better from 20% to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the liquid phase of the biphasic cosmetic composition.
[0575] Preferably, when present, the total content of conditioning agent(s) is in the range of 0.005% to 55% by weight, more preferably 0.1% to 40% by weight, better 0.5% to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the liquid phase of the biphasic cosmetic composition. Coloring agents
[0576] The colouring agents usable in the cosmetic composition of the invention can be chosen from oxidation dyes, direct dyes, pigments, and mixtures thereof.
[0577] Oxidation dyes (also called "oxidation dye precursors") can be selected from one or more oxidation bases, optionally associated with one or more couplers.
[0578] Preferably, the oxidation dye(s) comprise one or more oxidation bases.
[0579] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more oxidation bases.
[0580] Oxidation bases may be present in the form of salts, solvates and / or solvates of salts.
[0581] The addition salts of the oxidation bases present in the composition according to the invention are in particular selected from addition salts with an acid such as hydrochlorides, hydrobromides, sulfates, citrates, succinates, tartrates, lactates, tosylates, benzenesulfonates, methanesulfonates, phosphates and acetates, and addition salts with a base such as sodium, potassium, ammonia, amines or alkanolamines.
[0582] Furthermore, the solvates of the oxidation bases represent more particularly the hydrates of said oxidation bases and / or the association of said oxidation bases with a linear or branched alcohol in the C4 to C5 group, such as methanol, ethanol, isopropanol, n-propanol. Preferably, the solvates are hydrates.
[0583] By way of example, the oxidation bases are chosen from para-phenylenediamines, bis(phenyl)alkylenediamines, para-aminophenols, ortho-aminophenols, heterocyclic bases and corresponding addition salts, solvates and / or solvates of salts.
[0584] Among the paraphenylenediamines that may be mentioned are, for example, para-phenylenediamine, para-toluenediamine, 2-chloro-para-phenylenediamine, 2,3-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,6-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,6-diethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,5-dimethyl-para- phenylenediamine, N,N-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N,N-diethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N,N-dipropyl-para-phenylenediamine, 4-amino-N,N-diethyl-3-methylaniline, N,N-bis([3-hydroxyethyl)-para-phenylenediamine, 4-N,N-bis(P-hydroxyethyl)amino-2-methylaniline, 4-N,N-bis(B-hydroxyethyl)amino-2-chloroaniline, 2-[3-hydroxyethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-methoxymethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-fluoro-para-phenylenediamine, 2-isopropyl-para-phenylenediamine, N-([3-hydroxypropyl)-para-phenylenediamine, 2-(γ-hydroxypropyl)-para-phenylenediamine, 2-hydroxymethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N,N-dimethyl-3-methyl-para-phenylenediamine, N-ethyl-N-([3-hydroxyethyl)-para-phenylenediamine, N-([3,Y-dihydroxypropyl)-para-phenylenediamine, N-(4'-aminophenyl)-para-phenylenedianiine, N-phenyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-[3-hydroxyethyloxy-para-phenylenediamine, 2-[3-acetylaminoethyloxy-para-phenylenediamine, N-([3-methoxyethyl)-para-phenylenediamine,4-Aminophenylpyrrolidine, 2-Thienyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-[3-Hydroxyethylamino-5-aminotoluene and 3-Hydroxy-l-(4'-aminophenyl)pyrrolidine and their addition salts, solvates and / or solvates of their salts.
[0585] Among the aforementioned para-phenylenediamines, particular preference is given to para-phenylenediamine, para-toluenediamine, 2-isopropyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-[3-hydroxyethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-(γ-hydroxypropyl)-para-phenylenediamine, 2-methoxymethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-[>-hydroxyethyloxy-para-phenylenediamine, 2,6-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,6-diethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,3-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N,N-bis([3-hydroxyethyl)-para-phenylenediamine, 2-chloro-para-phenylenediamine and 2-[3-acetylaminoethyloxy-para-phenylenediamine and the corresponding addition salts, solvates and / or solvates of their salts.
[0586] Among the bis(phenyl)alkylenediamines that may be mentioned, examples include N,N'-bis([3-hydroxyethyl]-N,N'-bis(4'-aminophenyl)-1,3-diaminopropanol, N,N'-bis([3-hydroxyethyl]-N,N'-bis(4'-aminophenyl)ethylenediamine, N,N'-bis(4-aminophenyl)tetramethylenediamine, N,N'-bis(|3-hydroxyethyl)-N,N'-bis(4-aminophenyl)tetramethylenediamine, N,N'-bis(4-methylaminophenyl)tetramethylenediamine, N,N'-bis(ethyl)-N,N'-bis(4'-amino-3'-methylphenyl)ethylenediamine and 1,8-bis(2,5-diaminophenoxy)-3,6-dioxaoctane and the corresponding addition salts, solvated and solvated salts.
[0587] Among the para-aminophenols that are mentioned, for example, are para-aminophenol, 4-amino-3-methylphenol, 4-amino-3-fluorophenol, 4-amino-3-chlorophenol, 4-amino-3-hydroxymethylphenol, 4-amino-2-methylphenol, 4-amino-2-hydroxymethylphenol, 4-amino-2-methoxymethylphenol, 4-amino-2- aminomethylphenol, 4-amino-2-(P-hydroxyethylaminomethyl)phenol and 4-amino-2-fluorophenol and addition salts, solvates and solvates of salts.
[0588] Among the ortho-aminophenols that can be mentioned are, for example, 2-aminophenol, 2-amino-5-methylphenol, 2-amino-6-methylphenol and 5-acetamido-2-aminophenol and the corresponding addition salts, solvates and solvates of the salts.
[0589] Among the heterocyclic bases that can be mentioned, we find for example the derivatives of pyridine, pyrimidine and pyrazole.
[0590] Among the pyridine derivatives that can be mentioned are the compounds for example described in patents GB 1 026 978 and GB 1 153 196, for example 2,5-diaminopyridine, 2-(4-methoxyphenyl)amino-3-aminopyridine and 3,4-diaminopyridine and the corresponding addition salts, solvates and solvates of the salts.
[0591] Other pyridine oxidation bases that are useful in the present invention are the 3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridine oxidation bases or the corresponding addition salts described, for example, in French patent application FR 2 801 308. Examples that may be mentioned include pyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, 2-acetylaminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, 2-morpholin-4-ylpyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, 3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridine-2-carboxylic acid, 2-methoxypyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, (3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-7-yl)methanol, 2-(3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-5-yl)ethanol, 2-(3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-7-yl)ethanol, (3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-2-yl)methanol, 3,6-diaminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridine, 3,4-diaminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridine, pyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridine-3,7-diamine, 7-morpholin-4-ylpyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, pyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridine-3,5-diamine, 5-morpholin-4-ylpyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine,2-[(3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-5-yl) (2-hydroxyethyl)-amino]ethanol, 2-[(3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-7-yl) (2-hydroxyethyl)amino]ethanol, 3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridin-5-ol, 3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridin-4-ol, 3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridin-6-ol, 3-aminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridin-7-ol, 2-[3-hydroxyethoxy-3-amino-pyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridine; 2-(4-dimethylpiperazinium-l-yl)-3-amino-pyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridine; and the corresponding addition salts, the solvates and solvates of the salts.
[0592] More particularly, the oxidation bases that are useful in the present invention are chosen from among the 3 aminopyrazolo-[1,5 a]-pyridines and preferably substituted at carbon atom 2 by: a) a (di)(Cl-C6)(alkyl)amino group, said alkyl group being able to be substituted by at least one hydroxy, amino, imidazolium group; b) a heterocycloalkyl group containing 5 to 7 members and 1 to 3 heteroatoms, possibly cationic, possibly substituted by one or more (Cl-C6)alkyl groups, such as a di(Cl-C4)alkylpiperazinium group; or c) a (Cl-C6)alkoxy group possibly substituted by one or more hydroxy groups such as a [3-hydroxyalkoxy] group and the corresponding addition salts, solvates and solvates of the salts.
[0593] Among the pyrimidine derivatives that may be mentioned are the compounds described, for example, in patents DE 2359399; JP 88-169571; JP 05-63124; EP 0770375 or patent application WO 96 / 15765, such as 2,4,5,6-tetraaminopyrimidine, 4-hydroxy-2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2-hydroxy-4,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2,4-dihydroxy-5,6-diaminopyrimidine, 2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine and their addition salts, the solvates and solvates of the salts and their tautomeric forms, where a tautomeric equilibrium exists.
[0594] Among the pyrazole derivatives that may be mentioned are the compounds described in patents DE 3843892, DE 4133957 and patent applications WO 94 / 08969, WO 94 / 08970, FR A-2 733 749 and DE 195 43 988, such as 4,5-diamino-l-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-l-([3-hydroxyethyl)pyrazole, 3,4-diaminopyrazole, 4,5-diamino-l-(4'-chlorobenzyl)pyrazole, 4,5-diamino-l,3-dimethyl-pyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-methyl-l-phenylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-l-methyl-3-phenylpyrazole, the 4-amino-l,3-dimethyl-5-hydrazinopyrazole, 1-benzyl-4,5-diamino-3-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-tert-butyl-1-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-l-tert-butyl-3-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-l-([3-hydroxyethyl)-3-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-l-ethyl-3-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-l-ethyl-3-(4'-methoxyphenyl)pyrazole, 4,5-diamino-l-ethyl-3-hydroxymethyl-pyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-hydroxymethyl-1-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-hydroxymethyl-l-isopropylpyrazole, 4,5-Diamino-3-methyl-l-isopropylpyrazole, 4-amino-5-(2'-aminoethyl)amino-l,3-dimethylpyrazole, 3,4,5-triaminopyrazole, l-methyl-3,4,5-triaminopyrazole, 3,5-diamino-l-methyl-4-methylaminopyrazole, 3,5-diamino-4-(|3-hydroxyethyl)amino-1-methylpyrazole and the corresponding addition salts, solvates and / or solvates of the salts. 4,5-diamino-l-([3-methoxyethyl)pyrazole may also be used.
[0595] A 4,5-diaminopyrazole shall preferably be used and even more preferably 4,5-diamino-l-([3-hydroxyethyl)pyrazole and / or a corresponding salt, solvated and / or salt solvated.
[0596] Pyrazole derivatives that may also be mentioned include diamino-N,N-dihydropyrazolopyrazolones and in particular those described in patent application FR-A-2 886 136, such as the following compounds and the corresponding addition salts: 2,3-diamino-6,7-dihydro-1H,5H- pyrazolo[l,2-a]pyrazol-l-one, 2-amino-3-ethylamino-6,7-dihydro-1H,5H-pyrazolo[l,2-a]pyrazol-l-one, 2-amino-3-isopropylamino-6,7-dihydro-1H,5H-pyrazolo[l,2-a]pyrazol-l-one, 2-amino-3-(pyrrolidin-l-yl)-6,7- dihydro- 1H,5H-pyrazolo[1,2-a]pyrazol-1 -one, 4,5-diamino-1,2-dimethyl-1,2-dihydropyrazol-3-one, 4,5-diamino-1,2-diethyl-1,2-dihydropyrazol-3-one, 4,5-diamino-1,2-di-(2-hydroxyethyl)-1,2-dihydropyrazol-3-one, 2-amino-3-(2-hydroxyethyl)amino-6,7-dihydro-lH,5H-pyrazolo[l,2-a]pyrazol-l-one, 2-amino-3-dimethylamino-6,7-dihydro-lH,5H-pyrazolo[l,2-a]pyrazol-l-one, 2,3-diamino-5,6,7,8-tetrahydro-1H,6H-pyridazino[1,2-a]pyrazol-1-one, 4-amino-1,2-diethyl-5-(pyrrolidin-1-yl)-1,2-dihydropyrazol-3-one, 4-amino-5-(3-dimethylaminopyrrolidin-1-yl)-1,2-diethyl-1,2-dihydropyrazol-3-one, 2,3-diamino-6-hydroxy-6,7-dihydro-1H,5H-pyrazolo[1,2-a]pyrazol-1-one their salts, their solvates and / or solvates of their salts.
[0597] Preferably, 2,3-diamino-6,7-dihydro-1H,5H-pyrazolo[1,2-a]pyrazol-1-one and / or a corresponding salt, solvated and / or salt-solvated, will be used.
[0598] Preferably, 4,5-diamino-l-([3-hydroxyethyl)pyrazole and / or 2,3-diamino-6,7-dihydro-1H,5H-pyrazolo[l,2-a]pyrazol-l-one and / or 2-[3-hydroxyethoxy-3-amino-pyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridine and / or a corresponding salt, solvated and / or salt solvated as heterocyclic bases.
[0599] Preferably, the oxidation base(s) are chosen from para-phenylenediamines, bis(phenyl)alkylenediamines, para-aminophenols, ortho-aminophenols, heterocyclic bases, their corresponding addition salts, their solvates and / or the solvates of their salts, and mixtures thereof; more preferably from 2-methoxymethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-[3-hydroxyethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-γ-hydroxypropyl-para-phenylenediamine, their addition salts, their solvates and / or the solvates of their salts, and mixtures thereof.
[0600] Preferably, when the cosmetic composition of the invention comprises one or more oxidation bases, the total content of oxidation base(s) is in the range of 0.001% to 20% by weight, more preferably 0.005% to 15% by weight, more preferably still 0.01% to 10% by weight, better 0.05% to 5%, even better 0.1% to 3% by weight, relative to the weight of the liquid phase of the biphasic cosmetic composition.
[0601] The oxidation dye(s) may also be chosen from one or more couplers, which may be chosen from couplers conventionally used for staining keratin fibers.
[0602] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more oxidation couplers.
[0603] Among the useful couplers according to the invention, one can in particular mention metaphenylenediamines, meta-aminophenols, meta-diphenols, naphthalene-based coupling agents and heterocyclic coupling agents as well as the corresponding addition salts, solvates and solvates of their salts.
[0604] Examples include 6-hydroxybenzomorpholine, 3,4-hydroxyethylmethylenedioxyaniline, 2-amino-5-ethylphenol, 1,3-dihydroxybenzene, 1,3-dihydroxy-2-methylbenzene, 4-chloro-1,3-dihydroxybenzene, 2,4-diamino-1-(β-hydroxyethyloxy)benzene, 2-amino-4-(β-hydroxyethylamino)-1-methoxybenzene, 1,3-diaminobenzene, 1,3-bis(2,4-diaminophenoxy)propane, 3-ureidoaniline, 3-ureido-1-dimethylaminobenzene, sesamol, α-naphtol, 2-methyl-1-naphtol, 6-hydroxyindole, 4-hydroxyindole, 4-hydroxy-N-methylindole, 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine, 3,5-diamino-2,6-dimethoxypyridine, 2,6-bis(B-hydroxyethylamino)toluene, 6-hydroxyindoline, 2,6-dihydroxy-4-methylpyridine, 1H-3-methylpyrazol-5-one, 1-phenyl-3-methylpyrazol-5-one, 2,6-dimethylpyrazolo[l,5-b]-l,2,4-triazole, 2,6-dimethyl[3,2-c]-l,2,4-triazole and 6-methylpyrazolo[l,5-a]benzimidazole, 2-methyl-5-aminophenol, 5-N-(|3-hydroxyethyl)amino-2-methylphenol,3-Aminophenol, 3-Amino-2-chloro-6-methylphenol, the corresponding addition salts, solvates, solvates of the salts, and the corresponding mixtures.
[0605] In general, the addition salts of the couplers that can be used in the context of the invention are in particular chosen from addition salts with an acid, such as hydrochlorides, hydrobromides, sulfates, citrates, succinates, tartrates, lactates, tosylates, benzenesulfonates, phosphates and acetates and addition salts with a base such as sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, ammonia, amines or alkanolamines.
[0606] Furthermore, the solvates more particularly represent the hydrates of these couplers and / or the association of these couplers with a linear or branched alcohol in the C4 to C5 groups such as methanol, ethanol, isopropanol, n-propanol. Preferably, the solvates are hydrates.
[0607] Preferably, the coupler(s) are chosen from 6-hydroxybenzomorpholine, hydroxyethyl-3-4-methylenedioxyaniline, 2-amino 5-ethylphenol, their addition salts, their solvates and / or the solvates of their salts, and mixtures thereof.
[0608] Preferably, when the composition according to the invention comprises one or more oxidation couplers, the total content of oxidation coupler(s) is in the range of 0.001% to 20% by weight, more preferably 0.005% to 15% by weight, more preferably still 0.01% to 10% by weight, better 0.05% to 5%, even better 0.1% to 3% by weight, relative to the weight of the liquid phase of the biphasic cosmetic composition.
[0609] Preferably, the oxidation dye(s) are chosen from oxidation bases, couplers, and mixtures thereof; more preferably from para-phenylenediamines, bis(phenyl)alkylenediamines, para-aminophenols, ortho-aminophenols, heterocyclic bases, metaphenylenediamines, meta-aminophenols, meta-diphenols, naphthalene-based coupling agents, heterocyclic coupling agents, their addition salts, their solvates and / or solvates of salts, and mixtures thereof.
[0610] Preferably, when the composition according to the invention comprises at least one oxidation colorant, the total content of oxidation colorant(s) is in the range of 0.001% to 20% by weight, more preferably 0.005% to 15% by weight, more preferably still 0.01% to 10% by weight, better 0.05% to 5%, even better 0.1% to 3% by weight, relative to the weight of the liquid phase of the biphasic cosmetic composition.
[0611] Direct dyes can be synthetic or natural.
[0612] By "direct dye" we mean colored species. These are dyes which will diffuse superficially onto the fiber.
[0613] These synthetic direct dyes are chosen for example from those classically used in direct dyeing, and among which we can mention all the aromatic and / or non-aromatic dyes in common use such as benzene, azo, hydrazono, (hetero)aryl, tri(hetero)arylmethane, (poly)methinic, carbonyl, azinic, porphyrinic, metalloporphyrinic, quinonic and in particular anthraquinone, indoamine, phthalocyanine and their mixtures.
[0614] Among the benzene nitro direct dyes, the following may be mentioned: 1,4-diamino-2-nitrobenzene; 1-amino-2-nitro-4-[3-hydroxyethylaminobenzene; 1-amino-2-nitro-4-bis([3-hydroxyethyl)-aminobenzene; 1,4-bis([3-hydroxyethylamino)-2-nitrobenzene; 1-[3-hydroxyethylamino-2-nitro-4-bis-([3-hydroxyethylamino)-benzene; 1-B-hydroxyethylamino-2-nitro-4-aminobenzene; 1-[3-hydroxyethylamino-2-nitro-4-(ethyl)([3-hydroxyethyl)-aminobenzene; 1-amino-3-methyl-4-[3-hydroxyethylamino-6-nitrobenzene; 1-amino-2-nitro-4-[3-hydroxyethylamino-5-chlorobenzene; 1,2-diamino-4-nitrobenzene; l-amino-2-[3-hydroxyethylamino-5-nitrobenzene; 1,2-bis-([3-hydroxyethylamino)-4-nitrobenzene; l-amino-2-tris-(hydroxymethyl)-methylamino-5-nitrobenzene; l-Hydroxy-2-amino-5-nitrobenzene; l-Hydroxy-2-amino-4-nitrobenzene; l-Hydroxy-3-nitro-4-aminobenzene; l-Hydroxy-2-amino-4,6-dinitrobenzene; l-[3-hydroxyethyloxy-2-[3-hydroxyethylamino-5-nitrobenzene; l-methoxy-2-[3-hydroxyethylamino-5-nitrobenzene;l-[3-hydroxyethyloxy-3-methylamino-4-nitrobenzene; 1- [3,y-dihydroxypropyloxy-3-methylamino-4-nitrobenzene; l-[3-hydroxyethylamino-4-[3,y-dihydroxypropyloxy-2-; nitrobenzene; 1-p,y-dihydroxypropylammo-4-trifluoromethyl-2-nitroberizene; 1-P-hydroxyethylamino-4-trifluoromethyl-2-nitrobenzene; l-[3-hydroxyethylamino-3-methyl-2-nitrobenzene; l-[3-aminoethylamino-5-methoxy-2-nitrobenzene; 1-hydroxy-2-chloro-6-ethylamino-4-nitrobenzene; l-Hydroxy-2-chloro-6-amino-4-nitrobenzene; l-Hydroxy-6-bis-([3-hydroxyethyl)-amino-3-nitrobenzene; 1-P-hydroxyethylamino-2-nitrobenzene; l-Hydroxy-4-[3-hydroxyethylamino-3-nitrobenzene.
[0615] Among the azo direct dyes, we can cite: Basic Red 51, Basic Orange 31, Disperse Red 17, Acid Yellow 9, Acid Black 1, Basic Red 22, Basic Red 76, Basic Yellow 57, Acid Yellow 36, Acid Orange 7, Acid Red 33, Acid Red 35, Acid Yellow 23, Acid Orange 24, Disperse Black 9, Basic Brown 16, Basic Brown 17.
[0616] Among the direct hydrazono colorants, we can mention: Basic Yellow 87.
[0617] Among the aryl nitrate direct dyes, the following may be mentioned: HC Blue 2, HC Yellow 2, HC Red 3, 4-hydroxypropylamino-3-nitrophenol, N,N'-bis-(2-hydroxyethyl)-2-nitro-pheny lenediamine.
[0618] Among the triarylmethane direct dyes, we can cite: Basic Violet 1, Basic Violet 2, Basic Violet 3, Basic Violet 4, Basic Violet 14, Basic Blue 1, Basic Blue 7, Basic Blue 26, Basic green 1, Basic Blue 77 (also called HC Blue 15), Acid Blue 1; Acid Blue 3; Acid Blue 7, Acid Blue 9; Acid Violet 49; Acid green 3; Acid green 5; Acid Green 50.
[0619] Among the quinone direct dyes, the following may be mentioned: Disperse Red 15, Solvent Violet 13, Acid Violet 43, Disperse Violet 1, Disperse Violet 4, Disperse Blue 1, Disperse Violet 8, Disperse Blue 3, Disperse Red 11, Acid Blue 62, Disperse Blue 7, Basic Blue 22, Disperse Violet 15, Basic Blue 99, as well as the following compounds: 1-N-methylmorpholiniumpropylamino-4-hydroxyanthraquinone, 1-aminopropylamino-4-methylaminoanthraquinone, 1-aminopropylamino-anthraquinone, 5-[3-hydroxyethyl-1,4-diaminoanthraquinone, 2-aminoethylamino-anthraquinone, 1,4-bis-([3,γ-dihydroxypropylamino)-anthraquinone, Acid Blue 25, Acid Blue 43, Acid Blue 78, Acid Blue 129, Acid Blue 138, Acid Blue 140, Acid Blue 251, Acid Green 25, Acid Green 41, Acid Violet 42, Mordant Red 3, Acid Black 48, HC Blue 16.
[0620] Among the direct azinic dyes, we can mention: Basic Blue 17, Basic Red 2.
[0621] Among the direct indamine dyes, we can mention: 2-[3-hydroxyethylamino-5- [bis-([3-4'-hydroxyethyl)amino]anilino-l,4-benzoquinone, 2-[3-hydroxyethylamino-5-(2'-methoxy-4'-amino)anilino-l,4-benzoquinone, 3-N(2'-chloro-4'-hydroxy)phenyl-acetylamino-6-methoxy-l,4-benzoquinone imine, 3-N(3'-chloro-4'-methylamino)phenyl-ureido-6-methyl-l,4-benzoquinone imine, 3-[4'-N-(ethyl,carbamylmethyl)-amino]-phenyl-ureido-6-methyl-1,4-benzoquinone imine.
[0622] Natural direct colorants are for example chosen from lawsone, juglone, indigo, leuco indigo, indirubine, isatin, hennotannic acid, alizarin, carthamine, morin, purpurin, carminic acid, kermesic acid, laccaic acid, purpurogallin, protocatechaldehyde, curcumin, spinulosin, apigenidine, orceins, carotenoids, betanin, chlorophylls, chlorophyllins, monascus, polyphenols or orthodiphenols.
[0623] Among the useful orthodiphenols according to the invention, the following may be mentioned: catechin, quercetin, brazilin, hematein, hematoxylin, chlorogenic acid, caffeic acid, gallic acid, L-DOPA, cyanidin, (-)-Epicatechin, (-)-Epigallocatechin, (-)-Epigallocatechin 3-gallate (EGCG), isoquercetin, pomiferin, esculetin, 6,7-Dihydroxy-3-(3-hydroxy-2,4-dimethoxyphenyl)coumarin, Santalin A and B, mangiferin, butein, maritimetin, sulfuretin, robtein, betanin, pericampylinone A, theaflavin, proanthocyanidin A2, proanthocyanidin B2, proanthocyanidin Cl, procyanidins DP 4-8, tannic acid, purpurogallin, 5,6-Dihydroxy-2-methyl-1,4-naphthoquinone, Alizarin, Wedelolactone and natural extracts containing them.
[0624] More preferably, the direct dye(s) are chosen from among azo direct dyes, hydrazono direct dyes, aryl nitrate direct dyes, triarylmethane direct dyes, quinone direct dyes and in particular anthraquinones, and mixtures thereof.
[0625] When the cosmetic composition includes at least one direct colorant, the total content of direct colorant(s) is preferably in the range of 0.001% to 20% by weight, more preferably 0.005% to 15% by weight, more preferably 0.01% to 10% by weight, better 0.05% to 5%, better 0.1% to 3% by weight, relative to the weight of the liquid phase of the biphasic cosmetic composition.
[0626] Preferably, when present, the total content of oxidation colorant(s) and / or direct colorant(s) is in the range of 0.001% to 20% by weight, more preferably 0.002% to 15% by weight, more preferably 0.005% to 10% by weight, better 0.005% to 5%, better 0.01% to 3% by weight, relative to the weight of the liquid phase of the biphasic cosmetic composition.
[0627] Pigments usable as coloring agents may be white or colored, mineral and / or organic, coated or uncoated. Examples of mineral pigments include metallic oxides, in particular titanium dioxide, possibly surface-treated, zirconium, zinc, or cerium oxides, as well as iron, titanium, or chromium oxides, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, ultramarine rose, chromium hydrate, and ferric blue, and mixtures thereof. Examples of organic pigments include carbon black, D and C type pigments, and lacquers based on carmine, cochineal, barium, strontium, calcium, aluminum, and mixtures thereof.
[0628] Preferably, when present, the total pigment content(s) is in the range of 1% to 50% by weight, more preferably 5% to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the liquid phase of the biphasic cosmetic composition.
[0629] According to a particularly preferred embodiment of the invention, the cosmetic composition of the invention comprises at least one fixing agent; more preferably at least one fixing polymer; more preferably selected from nonionic fixing polymers, anionic fixing polymers, and mixtures thereof; better selected from anionic fixing polymers; and even better selected from: (a) acrylic acid copolymers such as acrylic acid / ethyl acrylate / N-tert-butylacrylamide terpolymer, (b) methacrylic acid / ethyl acrylate copolymers, (c) copolymers derived from crotonic acid such as vinyl acetate / vinyl tert-butylbenzoate / crotonic acid terpolymers and crotonic acid / vinyl acetate / vinyl neododecanoate terpolymers, (d) polymers derived from maleic, fumaric, itaconic acids or anhydrides with vinyl esters, vinyl ethers, vinyl halides, phenylvinyl derivatives, acrylic acid and its esters such as monoesterified methyl vinyl ether / maleic anhydride copolymer, (e) anionic polyurethanes, (f) branched sequenced anionic polymers butyl acrylate / acrylic acid / methacrylic acid, (g) amphoteric acrylate / octylacrylamide copolymers, (h) cationic VP / DMAPA acrylates copolymers, (j) cationic vinyl caprolactam / VP / dimethylamidoethyl methacrylate copolymers, (k) polyvinyl caprolactams, (1) VP / VA copolymers, (m) polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP), and (n) their mixtures.
[0630] According to this particularly preferred embodiment, the total content of fixing polymer(s) is preferably in the range of 0.05% to 25% by weight, more preferably 0.1% to 20% by weight, more preferably 0.2% to 15% by weight, better 0.5% to 10% by weight, and even better 1% to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the liquid phase of the biphasic cosmetic composition.
[0631] Solvents The cosmetic composition included in the assembly 1 packaging and dispensing aerosol according to the invention comprises one or more solvents selected from water, organic solvents, and mixtures thereof.
[0632] Preferably, the solvent or solvents are chosen from among organic solvents.
[0633] Organic solvents are different from non-siliconized fats, and in particular different from fatty alcohols, possibly used as a conditioning agent.
[0634] Advantageously, the solvent or solvents are chosen from among protic solvents; and in particular from among polar protic solvents.
[0635] More preferably, the solvent(s) are chosen from among the C2-C8 alcohols.
[0636] For the purposes of the present invention, "C2-C8 alcohols" means mono-alcohols C2-C8 and C2-C8 polyols.
[0637] The organic solvent(s) usable in the cosmetic composition of the invention are cosmetically acceptable.
[0638] By way of example, organic solvents may be selected from C1-C4 alcohols, such as ethanol, isopropanol, tert-butanol or n-butanol; C2-C8 polyols; aromatic alcohols such as benzyl alcohol; and mixtures thereof.
[0639] For the purposes of this invention, "polyol" means an organic compound consisting of a hydrocarbon chain optionally interrupted by one or more oxygen atoms and bearing at least two free hydroxyl groups (-OH) on different carbon atoms, this compound being able to be cyclic or acyclic, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and in the liquid state at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure.
[0640] Preferably, the polyol(s) according to the invention are acyclic and non-aromatic.
[0641] The polyols according to the invention comprise in their structure a number of carbon atoms ranging from 2 to 8, more preferably from 2 to 6, better from 2 to 5.
[0642] More particularly, the usable polyol(s) comprise from 2 to 10 hydroxy groups, more preferably from 2 to 5 hydroxy groups, more preferably still from 2 to 3 hydroxy groups.
[0643] Preferably, the usable polyol(s) are selected from polyols comprising at least three carbon atoms and ethylene glycol, preferably selected from propylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, 1,3-butylene glycol, pentane-1,2-diol, dipropylene glycol, hexylene glycol, pentylene glycol, glycerol, ethylene glycol, and a mixture of these compounds.
[0644] More preferably still, the solvent(s) are chosen from among C2-C6 monoalcohols, C2-C6 polyols, and mixtures thereof.
[0645] Better still, the solvent(s) are chosen from among the mono-alcohols in C2-C6, and even better in C2-C4.
[0646] Even better, the solvent is ethanol.
[0647] In a particularly preferred manner, the liquid phase of the biphasic cosmetic composition of the invention comprises at least ethanol.
[0648] According to one embodiment of the invention, the liquid phase of the biphasic cosmetic composition of the invention comprises at least one C2-C6 mono-alcohol and at least one C2-C6 polyol. Preferably, according to this embodiment, the composition comprises ethanol and glycerol.
[0649] Preferably, the content of solvent(s) chosen from water, organic solvents, and mixtures thereof, in the liquid phase of the cosmetic composition, is in the range of 20 to 99% by weight, more preferably 30 to 97% by weight, more preferably 40 to 95% by weight, and even better 50 to 95% by weight, relative to the total weight of the liquid phase of the biphasic cosmetic composition.
[0650] Preferably, the organic solvent(s) content is in the range of 20 to 99% by weight, more preferably 30 to 97% by weight, more preferably 40 to 95% by weight, and even better 50 to 95% by weight, relative to the total weight of the liquid phase of the biphasic cosmetic composition.
[0651] Preferably, the alcohol content in C2-C8 is in the range of 20 to 99% by weight, more preferably 30 to 97% by weight, more preferably 40 to 95% by weight, and even better 50 to 95% by weight, relative to the total weight of the liquid phase of the biphasic cosmetic composition.
[0652] Preferably, the content of C2-C6 mono-alcohol(s) is in the range of 20 to 99% by weight, more preferably 30 to 97% by weight, more preferably 40 to 95% by weight, and even better 50 to 95% by weight, relative to the total weight of the liquid phase of the biphasic cosmetic composition.
[0653] Preferably, the ethanol content is in the range of 20 to 99% by weight, more preferably 30 to 97% by weight, more preferably 40 to 95% by weight, and even better 50 to 95% by weight, relative to the total weight of the liquid phase of the biphasic cosmetic composition.
[0654] The cosmetic composition of the invention may include water.
[0655] When the liquid phase of the biphasic cosmetic composition includes water, the water content is preferably in the range of 0.5% to 55% in weight, more preferably from 1% to 50% by weight, more preferably from 2% to 40% by weight, better from 5% to 35% by weight, and even better from 10% to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the liquid phase of the biphasic cosmetic composition.
[0656] Preferably, the liquid phase of the biphasic cosmetic composition of the invention comprises a mixture of water and at least one organic solvent, in a weight ratio of organic solvent(s): water in the range of 43:57 to 97:3; More preferably, the liquid phase of the biphasic cosmetic composition of the invention comprises a mixture of water and ethanol, in a weight ratio of ethanol:water in the range of 43:57 to 97:3.
[0657] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the water content is less than 10% by weight; preferably less than 5% by weight; more preferably less than 1% by weight; more preferably less than 0.5% by weight; better less than 0.1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the liquid phase of the biphasic cosmetic composition.
[0658] According to another preferred embodiment of the invention, the cosmetic composition does not include water and the solvent(s) are chosen from organic solvents, preferably from C2-C6 mono-alcohols and C2-C6 polyols, more preferably from C2-C6 mono-alcohols, better from C2-C4 mono-alcohols such as ethanol.
[0659] Preferably, the cosmetic composition of the invention further comprises at least one alkanolamine compound. Alkanolamine compounds comprise at least one hydroxyl group and at least one amine group (primary, secondary or tertiary).
[0660] The alkanolamine compounds possibly used in the cosmetic composition of the invention are different from the organic solvents described above.
[0661] Advantageously, the alkanolamine compounds are chosen from those comprising a single hydroxyl group and a single amine group.
[0662] In particular, alkanolamine compounds comprise from 1 to 6 carbon atoms.
[0663] More preferably, the alkanolamine compounds are chosen from methanolamine, ethanolamine, 2-amino-2-methylpropan-l-ol, valinol, and mixtures thereof; preferably 2-amino-2-methylpropan-l-ol.
[0664] Preferably, the total content of alkanolamine compound(s) is in the range of 0.01% to 5% by weight, more preferably 0.05% to 3% by weight, better 0.1% to 2% by weight, always better 0.2% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the liquid phase of the biphasic cosmetic composition.
[0665] Preferably, the total 2-amino-2-methylpropan-l-ol content is in the range of 0.01% to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.05% to 3% by weight, better from 0.1% to 2% by weight, always better from 0.2% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the liquid phase of the biphasic cosmetic composition.
[0666] The propellant The cosmetic composition included in the assembly 1 packaging and dispensing aerosol according to the invention comprises a propellant agent.
[0667] According to the invention, the propellant agent is included in both the liquid and gaseous phases of the biphasic cosmetic composition of the invention.
[0668] The propellant agent according to the invention consists of a propellant gas or a mixture of different propellant gases.
[0669] The propellant according to the invention may consist of a mixture of carbon dioxide with another propellant gas (other than CO2).
[0670] According to the invention, the propellant comprises at least 50% by weight of carbon dioxide CO2, relative to the total weight of the propellant.
[0671] By way of example, propellant gases that can be used for the propellant agent may be chosen from air, pure carbon dioxide, pure nitrogen, and mixtures thereof.
[0672] Preferably, carbon dioxide is the sole propellant gas of the propellant. In other words, the propellant comprises 100% by weight of carbon dioxide (CO2) relative to the total weight of the propellant. Put another way, the propellant consists of a single gas: carbon dioxide.
[0673] According to the invention, the total carbon dioxide content in the biphasic cosmetic composition, i.e. in the liquid phase and the gaseous phase, is in the range of 2% to 10% by weight, preferably 5% to 7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the biphasic cosmetic composition of the invention.
[0674] The determination of the quantity of gaseous propellant(s) dissolved in the liquid phase of the biphasic cosmetic composition can be done by the classical methods of determining the quantity of a gas dissolved in a liquid, in particular by calculation using the equations of Henry's law and the real gas law.
[0675] By way of example, methods for determining the amount of carbon dioxide dissolved in the liquid phase of the biphasic cosmetic composition are described below.
[0676] Determination of the total dissolved carbon dioxide content in the phase liquid from the cosmetic composition
[0677] Preferably, a vacuum is created in the aerosol before weighing.
[0678] A volumetric approach, complemented by the Real Gas Law and Henry's Law, is used.
[0679] Starting from a mass of injected carbon dioxide (weighed at the time of gassing) - and the equilibrium pressure P measured 48 hours after injection, in the container aerosol at 20°C, we deduce by solving the system of equations PV=Z n(CO2) RT (Real Gas Law) / c = kH*P, the value of the mass of dissolved CO2.
[0680] To measure the pressure in the container, a T-Meter® manometer with a scale of 0 to 6 bars, marketed by THERSANE, can be used.
[0681] Preferably, the air is purged before the introduction of CO2.
[0682] Once the carbon dioxide has been injected into the container, the equilibrium pressure is allowed to build up in the container, preferably by shaking to facilitate dissolution. The pressure is then measured using a manometer positioned on the valve, which is in the open position. At this stage, the CO2 is in two phases: a gaseous phase and a phase dissolved in the liquid phase of the composition. The composition is biphasic: (1) the liquid phase with its cosmetic active ingredient(s), its solvent(s), and the dissolved CO2, and (2) the gaseous phase comprising the propellant in gaseous form.
[0683] The container closed by the valve (the valve cup acts as a lid) is weighed, which already contains the cosmetic composition without the injected CO2 (initial measurement before injection).
[0684] The air is possibly purged by vacuum and the CO2 is injected either by pressure balancing (under agitation until) a pressure of between 7 and 8 bars is reached), or by weight measurement until the mass of CO2 precisely desired by weighing is reached.
[0685] Henry's law and the real gas law can be used to calculate the amount of CO2 present in each phase (dissolved or gaseous), which allows the solubility equilibrium to be characterized. Within the framework of this invention, the dissolved CO2 ratio is generally between 70% and 90% by weight, depending on the specific nature of the ingredients in the cosmetic composition of the invention.
[0686] All measurements are taken at 20°C.
[0687] Henry's law is explained, for example, in Peter Atkins and Julio de Paula's *Atkins' Physical Chemistry* or Ira N. Levine's *Physical Chemistry*. The theory of real gases is explained in J.M. Smith, H.C. Van Ness, and M.M. Abbott's *Introduction to Chemical Engineering Thermodynamics*, McGraw-Hill Education. From these publications, it is possible to determine the gas concentrations in each phase.
[0688] Preferably, the cosmetic composition of the invention is free of organic propellant.
[0689] By "organic propellant", for the purposes of the invention, means a propellant derived from petroleum refining (i.e. petroleum-based gas), and more preferably chosen from volatile hydrocarbons and ethers.
[0690] The expression "devoid of organic propellant" means that the composition does not include an organic propellant, or that the organic propellant(s) present in said composition are included in a total content of less than or equal to 1% by weight, preferably less than or equal to 0.5% by weight, more preferably less than or equal to 0.1% by weight, better less than or equal to 0.05% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition, and even better free of propellant (0% by weight).
[0691] By way of organic propellant gases or agents, the following may be cited in particular: volatile hydrocarbons, possibly halogenated (for example chlorinated and / or fluorinated); dimethyl ether; and mixtures thereof; in particular dimethyl ether, C3-C5 alkanes, trichlorofluoromethane, dichlorodifluoromethane, chlorodifluoromethane, 1,1,1,2-tetrafluoroethane, chloropentafluoroethane, l-chloro-l,l-difluoroethane, 1,1-difluoroethane, 1,3,3,3-tetrafluoropropene, and mixtures thereof; and more particularly C3-C5 alkanes, such as propane, isopropane, n-butane, isobutane, pentane, and mixtures thereof.
[0692] The cosmetic composition contained in the packaging and dispensing aerosol assembly according to the invention may optionally include further one or more additives, such as thickeners or viscosity regulators, natural or synthetic, other than the fixing polymers described above; vitamins or provitamins; plasticizing agents other than the solvents described above; preservatives; or perfumes.
[0693] A person skilled in the art shall take care to choose any additives and their quantity so that they do not impair the properties of the composition contained in the device according to the invention.
[0694] These additives are generally present in the composition in an amount ranging from 0 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0695] The liquid phase of the cosmetic composition of the invention is preferably not in the form of an emulsion.
[0696] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the cosmetic composition of the invention is devoid of surfactant. By "devoid of surfactant" is meant a composition comprising a surfactant content of less than 1% by weight, more preferably less than 0.5% by weight, better less than 0.2% by weight, even better less than 0.1% by weight, and even better less than 0.05% by weight, relative to the total weight of the liquid phase of the biphasic cosmetic composition. Better still, it contains no surfactant (0%). More specifically, a surfactant-free composition does not include any surfactant added during its preparation; any residual surfactants may be present. present which may originate from the raw materials used during preparation. For the purposes of the invention, the alkanolamine compounds are not chosen from among the surfactants.
[0697] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the cosmetic composition of the invention is free of non-siliconized liquid fatty substances. By "free of non-siliconized liquid fats" is meant a composition comprising a non-siliconized liquid fat content of less than 1% by weight, more preferably less than 0.5% by weight, better less than 0.2% by weight, even better less than 0.1% by weight, and even better less than 0.05% by weight, relative to the total weight of the liquid phase of the two-phase cosmetic composition. Better still, it contains no non-siliconized liquid fats (0%).
[0698] More specifically, a composition free of non-siliconized liquid fats does not include any non-siliconized liquid fats added during its preparation; any residual non-siliconized liquid fats that may be present may originate from the raw materials used during preparation.
[0699] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the cosmetic composition of the invention is silicone-free. By "silicone-free," we mean a composition containing less than 1% silicone by weight, preferably less than 0.5% by weight, better still less than 0.2% by weight, even better less than 0.1% by weight, and even better still less than 0.05% by weight, relative to the total weight of the liquid phase of the biphasic cosmetic composition. Even better, it contains no silicone at all (0%). More specifically, a silicone-free composition does not contain any added silicone during its preparation; any residual silicones that may be present could originate from the raw materials used in its preparation.
[0700] Preferably, the density of the liquid phase of the cosmetic composition without the propellant (i.e. the solution S, defined below), at a temperature of 25°C and at atmospheric pressure, is in the range of 0.7 to 0.9; more preferably from 0.75 to 0.88; more preferably still from 0.80 to 0.85.
[0701] The cosmetic composition of the invention is pressurized by a propellant.
[0702] During the manufacture of the cosmetic composition of the invention, the propellant in gaseous form is added under pressure to a solution (S) comprising (i) one or more cosmetic agents and (ii) one or more solvents selected from water, organic solvents, and mixtures thereof as described above; said solution (S) being included in the packaging and dispensing aerosol assembly.
[0703] Preferably, the pressure in the container 10 containing the cosmetic composition is in the range of 200,000 (2 bars) to 1,500,000 Pa (15 bars); more preferably from 300,000 (3 bars) to 1,300,000 Pa (13 bars); more preferably still from 400,000 (4 bars) to 1,000,000 Pa (10 bars); better still from 500,000 (5 bars) to 1,000,000 Pa (10 bars); even better from 600,000 (6 bars) to 1,000,000 Pa (10 bars).
[0704] Advantageously, the volume of the cosmetic composition is in the range of 30% to 90%, more preferably 35% to 85%, more preferably 40% to 80%, better 50% to 70%, relative to the total volume of the container 10 containing the cosmetic composition.
[0705] The aerosol cosmetic product according to the invention does not spray said cosmetic composition in the form of foam.
[0706] The aerosol cosmetic product according to the invention preferably sprays the liquid phase of the cosmetic composition in fine droplets (in the form of a continuous spray).
[0707] Preferably, the average volume diameter of the droplets of the liquid phase of the sprayed cosmetic composition (or lacquer) is in the range of 1 to 200 pm; more preferably 10 to 150 pm; more preferably 50 to 100 pm; better 60 to 80 pm.
[0708] The average volume diameter of the droplets of the sprayed liquid phase of the cosmetic composition can be measured using the known method of dynamic light scattering (DLS). A suitable instrument for this determination is the Malvern Spraytec particle size analyzer (laser / spray distance = 20 cm; measurement frequency = 5 Hz).
[0709] Preferably, the cosmetic composition of the invention is a composition for the treatment of keratin fibers, in particular hair.
[0710] More preferably the cosmetic composition of the invention is a hair styling composition, a hair washing composition such as a dry shampoo, a hair care / conditioning composition or a hair coloring composition.
[0711] When the cosmetic composition of the invention is intended for hair styling, said cosmetic composition includes at least one fixing agent as described above, more particularly at least one fixing polymer as described above.
[0712] When the cosmetic composition of the invention is intended for washing hair, said cosmetic composition includes at least one washing agent as described above.
[0713] When the cosmetic composition of the invention is intended for the care / conditioning of hair, said cosmetic composition includes at least one conditioning agent as described above.
[0714] When the cosmetic composition of the invention is intended for hair coloring, said cosmetic composition includes at least one coloring agent as described above.
[0715] In a particularly preferred manner, the cosmetic composition of the invention is a hair styling composition, otherwise known as a styling composition.
[0716] The present invention is particularly effective when used for shaping keratin fibers, and in particular hair.
[0717] Indeed, aerosol cosmetic products delivering a styling composition (or hairsprays) are commonly used to build, structure, and hold hairstyles. Hairsprays are generally applied to hair, which is then styled before blow-drying or blow-drying. However, currently available aerosol hairsprays do not provide complete satisfaction, either in terms of the distribution of the styling product or the product itself. In particular, the distribution of the styling composition by an aerosol device is generally neither homogeneous nor consistent enough. Furthermore, the fixing power of the keratin fibers in these products is generally insufficient, especially in terms of the longevity of the hairstyle. The present invention specifically addresses these drawbacks.
[0718] The packaging and distribution unit 1 and the cosmetic composition together form an aerosol cosmetic product.
[0719] The invention also relates to a method for treating keratin fibers comprising at least one step of spraying said keratin fibers, in particular hair, with a cosmetic composition as described above, using the conditioning and distribution assembly 1 according to the invention.
[0720] Preferably, the treatment process according to the invention is a process for shaping keratin fibers, in particular hair.
[0721] In one embodiment of the process according to the invention, the cosmetic composition is sprayed onto wet hair.
[0722] In another embodiment of the process according to the invention, the cosmetic composition is sprayed onto dry hair.
[0723] Preferably, the application of the cosmetic composition in aerosol form to the keratin fibers is not followed by rinsing.
[0724] Advantageously, the keratin fibers are not rinsed with water, at least two hours, more preferably at least three hours, more preferably still at least four hours, after the spraying step of the process according to the invention.
[0725] The invention also relates to the use of a cosmetic aerosol product according to the invention for the treatment, preferably for shaping keratin fibers, for washing keratin fibers, for the care / conditioning of keratin fibers or for coloring keratin fibers; more preferably for shaping keratin fibers.
[0726] When the aerosol cosmetic product of the invention is used for hair styling, said cosmetic composition includes at least one fixing agent as described above, more particularly at least one fixing polymer as described above.
[0727] When the aerosol cosmetic product of the invention is used for washing hair, said cosmetic composition includes at least one washing agent as described above.
[0728] When the aerosol cosmetic product of the invention is used for hair care / conditioning, said cosmetic composition includes at least one conditioning agent as described above.
[0729] When the aerosol cosmetic product of the invention is used for hair coloring, said cosmetic composition includes at least one coloring agent as described above.
[0730] In a particularly preferred manner, the aerosol cosmetic product of the invention is used for hair styling.
[0731] The aerosol cosmetic product comprises the packaging and dispensing assembly 1 and a cosmetic composition contained in said assembly 1.
[0732] The invention also relates to a method for manufacturing a cosmetic aerosol product according to the invention, comprising at least the following steps, in order: a) a step of adding to the packaging and dispensing assembly 1 as described above without a dispensing head 40, a cosmetic composition S comprising: (i) one or more cosmetic agents as described above, and (ii) one or more solvents selected from water, organic solvents, and mixtures thereof as described above, a') possibly a step for purging the air still present in said conditioning and distribution assembly 1, b) a pressurization step of said conditioning and distribution assembly 1 consisting of the introduction through valve 30, at a temperature between 18°C and 30°C, of a propellant comprising at least 50% carbon dioxide per relative to the total weight of the propellant, at a pressure higher than the equilibrium pressure of said cosmetic composition S, preferably at a pressure in the range of 8.105 Pa (i.e. 8 bars) to 10.105 Pa (i.e. 10 bars), so as to form a biphasic cosmetic composition comprising a liquid phase and a gaseous phase; the introduction of propellant being maintained until a total carbon dioxide content in the then biphasic cosmetic composition is reached by weighing in the range of 2% to 10% by weight, preferably 5% to 7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the biphasic cosmetic composition.
[0733] The introduction under pressure of said propellant during step b) may optionally be interrupted by one or more phases of mechanical agitation of said cosmetic composition S.
[0734] In this manufacturing process according to the invention, the distribution head 40 is temporarily removed from the conditioning and distribution assembly 1 for the step a) of adding, the possible step a') of purging and the step b) of pressurizing, then put back to reform the conditioning and distribution assembly 1 according to the invention.
[0735] The invention also relates to another method for manufacturing a cosmetic product in aerosol form according to the invention, comprising at least the following steps, in order: a) an addition step in the packaging and dispensing assembly 1 as described above without dispensing head 40, of a cosmetic composition S comprising: (i) one or more cosmetic agents as described above, and (ii) one or more solvents selected from water, organic solvents, and mixtures thereof as described above, a') possibly a step for purging the air still present in said conditioning and distribution assembly 1, b) a pressurization step of said conditioning and distribution assembly 1 consisting of the introduction through valve 30, at a temperature between 18°C and 30°C, of a propellant comprising at least 50% carbon dioxide by weight of the total propellant, according to the impact gassing technique, so as to form a two-phase cosmetic composition comprising a liquid phase and a gaseous phase.
[0736] The impact gassing technique consists of introducing, prior to said pressurization step b), said propellant under pressure into a metering unit or container having a defined volume such that the total mass of propellant in said metering unit corresponds to the quantity of propellant to be introduced into said conditioning and dispensing assembly 1 to achieve a total carbon dioxide content in the then biphasic cosmetic composition within the range ranging from 2% to 10% by weight, preferably from 5% to 7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the biphasic cosmetic composition.
[0737] The volume of said doser is then compressed so as to multiply the pressure inside it by a factor of 3 to 6.
[0738] Then, the propellant compressed in said metering unit is introduced into said conditioning and distribution assembly 1.
[0739] In particular, valve 30 is opened so as to abruptly introduce the propellant into the conditioning and distribution assembly 1 in order to cause rapid dissolution of the propellant in the liquid phase of the biphasic cosmetic composition.
[0740] In this manufacturing process according to the invention, the distribution head 40 is temporarily removed from the conditioning and distribution assembly 1 for the step a) of adding, the possible step a') of purging and the step b) of pressurizing, then put back to reform the conditioning and distribution assembly 1 according to the invention.
[0741] The following examples serve to illustrate the invention without, however, being limiting in nature. Examples Example 1
[0742] The preferred characteristics of the aerosol cosmetic product according to the invention are summarized in Table 1 below. The ranges of values in this table correspond to the particularly preferred values for some of the parameters of the aerosol cosmetic product according to the invention.
[0743] The present invention should not be considered to be limited to the parameters and ranges of values illustrated in Tables 1 and 2 below. hh:;d Mh> y fa r&én>wrf Typ< Æ , crache Svjdrtetatete^ of yeoptere essxxte IXwiéte of Sfâït test mfai ■< ■{ ; Name .te i<fwp' of the 'Jxw 'fa>it Obtain a fax Mifarx of<jjekw fa stem (dGL wjjj> d *> s •>.25 j Surtew ï .>!;& ta 4H «œ (50. raœ:i os« V.Vte ; 4< tsskwii iswsas ï<(Rt aiisï : < * te s&fafafau mtefJK' (SRI. wmày?} (R'^fai aiw?} (SRI. wmày?} dk t of Pcs-.; d<- bd ■ Forest i.<i«î h> U>» »jjj < $ ans $< d Ami, i < mj > iïwfafat ■.te RxnfK'ÿ of #>ffa (t'farWm} G, >< h 15 ■ Noojwe te cane «x of h buse < Nc) -3⁄4 $ <eéi< ■:£ d ù ^sege tes exquis. (Ac: mfa} ». i ï 1 :é : ÿwujeA cxti^x fa IhnteA eteteepe Conx|ve î '(fafa'fa de fo z<w tedirht^.Wiüée é te ^rtie .tes ee.wjex (te> . rem : id,5 ■ Profound >e makes you see the truth of yourself <i;:eyx ?fa. i^fa) vu ■ c,<ksk^ ï: t fa déchargé e u tend £ de te buse <c«v san s fafa) '^fa2 1 ctfa'fax mde.tuwradoa dé (fa aesans witet c ^-. 0.5 ! vafcar's etex fafaxz d b: fax (sx3. nnutedo) 2w isi: ; 94 Example 2
[0744] The cosmetic compositions Al, A2 and A3 according to the invention were prepared from the ingredients indicated in Table 3 below, the quantities of which are expressed as % by weight of active material (AM).
[0745] [Tables3] Ingredients Al A2 A3 Copolymer VA / crotonates / vinyl neodecanoate 5.0 4.0 3.5 Aminomethyl propanol 0.5 0.4 0.4 Carbon dioxide (i.e., % by weight CO2 included in the liquid and gaseous phases of the composition) 6.5 6.5 6.5 Perfume qs qs qs Ethanol Qsp 100 Qsp 100 Qsp 100
[0746] The gaseous phases of the cosmetic compositions Al, A2 and A3 according to the invention consist exclusively of carbon dioxide in gaseous form.
[0747] Compositions A1 to A3 were each packaged in separate hairspray packaging and dispensing assemblies 1 according to the invention, each having a spray nozzle 42 having the following characteristics:
[0748] - a vortex chamber 44 with a diameter Ds equal to 1 mm and a length Ls equal to at 0.25mm;
[0749] - three radial channels 45 extending from the vortex chamber 44, of which The conical shape, having a total channel passage area (Ac) of 0.1725 mm². The "total passage area" (AC) of a nozzle refers to the total surface area through which the fluid (liquid, gas, or aerosol) can flow at the nozzle outlet. This includes the opening through which the fluid is expelled; and
[0750] - an outlet orifice 46 with a diameter Do equal to 0.23mm.
[0751] It was found that the quality of the spray obtained with each of the aerosol cosmetic products according to the invention was good, in particular: a continuous homogeneous and regular spray, fine droplets, and the absence of nozzle clogging.
[0752] Each of the cosmetic compositions A1 to A3 of the invention was also sprayed onto a separate strand of hair.
[0753] It has been observed that the Al to A3 styling compositions of the invention provide good fixation and hold of the hair.
[0754] In addition, it has been observed that the styling compositions Al to A3 of the invention provide a natural appearance to the hairstyle and a particularly soft and pleasant feel to the hair, and allow for fluid movement of the hair.
[0755] Thanks to the invention, suitable spray characteristics are obtained in order to treat hair under conditions similar to existing aerosol cosmetic products, by combining an aerosol assembly with specific technical characteristics and a carbon dioxide-based cosmetic composition.
Claims
1. Demands Cosmetic product in aerosol form comprising: - a packaging and dispensing unit (1) for a cosmetic composition, in particular a hairspray, comprising: - a container (10) delimiting an internal volume (lia) containing a cosmetic composition; - a lid (20) connected to the container (10) closing an opening of said container (10); - a dispensing valve (30) mounted in the container (10), integral with the lid (20) and comprising a valve body (31) defining a chamber (33), a valve stem (32) movable axially in the chamber (33) and extending axially out of the valve body (31), a nozzle (35) extending axially from the valve body (31) into the container (10), a spring (38) mounted between the valve body (31) and the valve stem (32), the valve stem (32) comprising an axial dispensing channel (37) and at least one nozzle orifice (37a) opening onto the outer surface of said stem; and - a dispensing head (40) comprising an actuator (41) mounted on the valve stem (32) to allow actuation of the valve (30) and dispensing of the product contained in the container (10), the actuator (41) comprising a nozzle (42) connected to the outlet of the stem (32) by a conduit (43) for dispensing the product contained in the container (10), characterized in that - the nozzle (42) comprises a vortex chamber (44) connected to the conduit (43), at least one radial channel (45) and an outlet orifice (46) connected to said radial channel (45) and having a diameter (Do) between 0.15 mm and 0.41 mm, the nozzle (42) being defined by a total channel passage area (Ac) between 0.1 mm² and 0.3 mm², said total channel passage area (Ac) being equal to the product of the number of channels (45), the channel depth (45) and the minimum channel width (45), and comprising a biphasic cosmetic composition comprising a liquid phase and a gaseous phase, the biphasic composition comprising: (i) one or more cosmetic agents in the liquid phase, (ii) one or more solvents in the liquid phase, selected from water, organic solvents, and mixtures thereof, and (iii) a propellant in both the liquid and gaseous phases; said propellant comprising at least 50% by weight of carbon dioxide, relative to the total weight of the propellant, and the total carbon dioxide content in the biphasic cosmetic composition being in the range of 2% to 10% by weight, preferably 5% to 7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the biphasic cosmetic composition.
2. Product according to claim 1, wherein the vortex chamber (44) has a diameter (Ds) between 0.5mm and 1.5mm, and wherein the nozzle (42) has an atomization coefficient (K) between 0.5 and 1, the atomization coefficient (K) being the ratio between the total passage area through the channels (Ac) with the product of the diameter (Ds) of the vortex chamber (44) by the diameter (Do) of the outlet orifice (46) of the nozzle (42).
3. Product according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the nozzle orifice (37a) has a diameter between 0.25mm and 0.61mm, and a total area (SGI) between 0.196mm2 and 1.169mm2.
4. Product according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the nozzle (35) comprises an opening with a diameter between 0.25mm and 2.5mm, and the surface area of the nozzle (35) is between 0.05mm2 and 4.91mm2.
5. Product according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the number of radial channels (45) is between 1 and 6.
6. Product according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the valve body (31) does not include an additional gas inlet.
7. Product according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the cosmetic agent(s) are selected from fixing agents, cleansing agents, conditioning agents, coloring agents, and mixtures thereof.
8. A product according to the preceding claim, wherein the fixing agent(s) are selected from fixing polymers; preferably from non-ionic fixing polymers, polymers anionic fixatives, and their mixtures; more preferably among anionic fixing polymers.
9. A product according to the preceding claim, wherein the fixing polymer(s) are selected from: (a) acrylic acid copolymers such as acrylic acid / ethyl acrylate / N-tert-butylacrylamide terpolymer, (b) methacrylic acid / ethyl acrylate copolymers, (c) crotonic acid-derived copolymers such as vinyl acetate / vinyl tert-butylbenzoate / crotonic acid terpolymers and crotonic acid / vinyl acetate / vinyl neododecanoate terpolymers, (d) polymers derived from maleic, fumaric, or itaconic acids or anhydrides with vinyl esters, vinyl ethers, vinyl halides, phenylvinyl derivatives, acrylic acid and its esters such as monoesterified methyl vinyl ether / maleic anhydride copolymer, (e) anionic polyurethanes, (f) branched sequenced anionic polymers butyl acrylate / acrylic acid / methacrylic acid,(g) amphoteric acrylate / octylacrylamide copolymers, (h) cationic VP / DMAPA acrylate copolymers, (j) cationic vinyl caprolactam / VP / dimethylamidoethyl methacrylate copolymers, (k) polyvinylcaprolactams, (l) VP / VA copolymers, (m) polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP), and (n) mixtures thereof.
10. Product according to any one of claims 7 to 9, wherein the total content of fixing agent(s) in the biphasic cosmetic composition is in the range of 0.05% to 25% by weight, more preferably 0.1% to 20% by weight, more preferably 0.2% to 15% by weight, better 0.5% to 10% by weight, and even better 1% to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the liquid phase of the biphasic cosmetic composition.
11. A product according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the two-phase cosmetic composition comprises ethanol in its liquid phase; preferably the total ethanol content in The biphasic cosmetic composition is within the range of 20 to 99% by weight, more preferably 30 to 97% by weight, more preferably 40 to 95% by weight, and even better 50 to 95% by weight, relative to the total weight of the liquid phase of the biphasic cosmetic composition.
12. Product according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the liquid phase of the biphasic cosmetic composition comprises a mixture of water and at least one organic solvent, in a weight ratio of organic solvent(s): water in the range of 43:57 to 97:3; preferably the liquid phase of the biphasic cosmetic composition comprises a mixture of water and ethanol, in a weight ratio of ethanol:water in the range of 43:57 to 97:
3.
13. Product according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the propellant consists solely of carbon dioxide.
14. Use of a cosmetic aerosol product according to any one of claims 1 to 13, for the treatment of keratin fibers; preferably for shaping keratin fibers, for washing keratin fibers, for the care / conditioning of keratin fibers or for coloring keratin fibers; more preferably for shaping keratin fibers.
15. A method for manufacturing a cosmetic aerosol product according to any one of claims 1 to 13, comprising at least the following steps, in order: a) a step of adding to the packaging and dispensing assembly (1) as defined in any one of claims 1 to 6 without a dispensing head (40), a cosmetic composition S comprising: (i) one or more cosmetic agents as defined in any one of claims 1, 7 to 10, and (ii) one or more solvents selected from water, organic solvents, and mixtures thereof as defined in any one of claims 1, 11 and 12, a') optionally a step of purging the air still present in said packaging and dispensing assembly (1), (b) a pressurization step of said conditioning and distribution assembly (1) consisting of the introduction through the valve (30), at a temperature between 18°C and 30°C, of a propellant comprising at least 50% carbon dioxide by weight of the total propellant, at a pressure above the equilibrium pressure of said cosmetic composition S, preferably at a pressure in the range of 8.105 Pa to 10.105 Pa, so as to form a biphasic cosmetic composition comprising a liquid phase and a gaseous phase; the introduction of the propellant being maintained until a total carbon dioxide content in the cosmetic composition is reached by weighing in the range of 2% to 10% by weight, preferably 5% to 7% by weight, by weight of said biphasic cosmetic composition.
16. A method for manufacturing an aerosol cosmetic product according to any one of claims 1 to 13, comprising at least the following steps, in order: a) a step of adding to the packaging and dispensing assembly (1) as defined in any one of claims 1 to 6 without a dispensing head (40), a cosmetic composition S comprising: (i) one or more cosmetic agents as defined in any one of claims 1, 7 to 10, and (ii) one or more solvents selected from water, organic solvents, and mixtures thereof as defined in any one of claims 1, 11 and 12, a') optionally a step of purging the air still present in said packaging and dispensing assembly (1), b) a step of pressurizing said packaging and dispensing assembly (1) consisting of introducing, through the valve (30), at a temperature between 18°C and 30°C,of a propellant, comprising at least 50% carbon dioxide by weight of the total propellant, at a pressure exceeding the equilibrium pressure of said cosmetic composition S, preferably at a pressure in the range of 8 x 10⁵ Pa to 10 x 10⁵ Pa, according to the impact gassing technique, so that, to form a biphasic cosmetic composition comprising a liquid phase and a gaseous phase; the impact gassing technique consisting in the following order: - prior to said step b) of pressurization, the said propellant under pressure into a dosing unit or container having a defined volume such that the total mass of propellant in said dosing unit corresponds to the quantity of propellant to be introduced into said conditioning and distribution assembly 1 to achieve a total carbon dioxide content in the then biphasic cosmetic composition within the range of 2% to 10% by weight, preferably 5% to 7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the biphasic cosmetic composition, - to compress the volume of said doser so as to multiply the pressure inside said doser by a factor of 3 to 6, - to introduce the compressed propellant into said doser in said conditioning and distribution assembly 1.