Photoprotective composition, use thereof, and sunscreen cosmetic

Abstract

The present invention belongs to the technical field of cosmetics. Provided is a photoprotective composition, comprising soluble collagen and a Phyllanthus emblica fruit extract. A mass ratio of the soluble collagen to the Phyllanthus emblica fruit extract is 75:1 to 25:1, the soluble collagen comprises photocurable collagen and a photoinitiator, and the photocurable collagen is collagen modified by acylation of 2-methacrylic anhydride.

Description

A photoprotective composition, its application, and sunscreen cosmetics Technical Field

[0001] This invention belongs to the field of cosmetic technology, specifically relating to a photoprotective composition, its application, and sunscreen cosmetics. Background Technology

[0002] Ultraviolet radiation from sunlight is associated with various diseases, such as actinic keratosis, chronic actinic dermatitis, and inflammatory aging. The ultraviolet radiation in sunlight mainly consists of UVA and UVB. UVA, with a wavelength of 320–400 nm, can penetrate the epidermis to reach the dermis. Its main targets include fibroblasts and Langerhans cells, promoting the production and release of matrix metalloproteinases and accelerating the degradation of collagen and elastin. UVB has stronger energy and mainly acts on the epidermis, causing thickening of the stratum corneum and exacerbating inflammatory responses. UVB can also induce tyrosinase production, promote melanocyte proliferation and migration, and increase melanin synthesis.

[0003] In today's society, the public is increasingly aware of the need to prevent skin aging and sun damage, and their demands for sunscreen products are also rising. Products with higher SPF can effectively protect the skin from UV damage and delay aging. However, higher SPF generally means a higher concentration of sunscreen agents in the formula, which not only affects the feel on the skin but may also have certain health implications for consumers. A cost-effective strategy is to increase the SPF through synergistic effects with other ingredients in the formula, without changing the types and amounts of sunscreen agents, thus reducing the adverse effects of adding too many sunscreen agents. Summary of the Invention

[0004] To address the aforementioned technical problems, the present invention aims to provide a photoprotective composition that can effectively improve the sun protection factor, its application in the field of sun protection, and a sun protection cosmetic containing the photoprotective composition.

[0005] To achieve this objective, the present invention adopts the following technical solution:

[0006] In a first aspect, the present invention provides a photoprotective composition comprising soluble collagen and amla fruit extract, wherein the mass ratio of soluble collagen to amla fruit extract is 75:1 to 25:1, and the soluble collagen comprises photocurable collagen and a photoinitiator.

[0007] Preferably, the photocurable collagen is collagen modified by acylation of 2-methacrylic anhydride.

[0008] More preferably, after 2-methacrylic anhydride acylation modification, the photocurable collagen segments still contain active groups such as arginine-glycine-aspartic acid motifs and matrix metalloproteinase substrate motifs. This not only preserves the anti-wrinkle effect of collagen, but more importantly, it exhibits a "photosensitive film-forming" effect under light. That is, in the presence of a light source, photocurable collagen can cross-link and solidify under the action of a photoinitiator to form a thin film, thus it can be used as a film-forming agent to some extent. After curing, the film provides good protection against ultraviolet radiation, offering comprehensive photoprotection for the skin.

[0009] Preferably, the photoinitiator includes one or more of the following: dimethylaminostyrylheptylmethylthiazolium iodide, p-dimethylaminobenzoate isooctyl ester, p-dimethylaminobenzoate isoamyl ester, 2-hydroxy-2-methylphenylacetone, 2-hydroxy-4'-(2-hydroxyethoxy)-2-methylphenylacetone, phenyl-2,4,6-trimethylbenzoylphosphonate lithium, and 2,2'-(1,2-diazepinel)bis[N-(2-hydroxyethyl)-2-methylpropionamide].

[0010] Preferably, the extract of Phyllanthus emblica fruit is extracted from the dried, pitted fruit of Phyllanthus emblica, a plant belonging to the Euphorbiaceae family and the Phyllanthus genus in Yunnan.

[0011] Secondly, the present invention also provides the application of the above-mentioned photoprotective composition in ultraviolet protection products.

[0012] Thirdly, the present invention also provides a sunscreen cosmetic containing the above-mentioned photoprotective composition, comprising the following components based on a total mass of 100 parts: 5-20 parts of ultraviolet sunscreen agent; 1-5 parts of emulsifier; 0.5-2 parts of film-forming agent; 5-20 parts of emollient; 3-5 parts of photoprotective composition; 0.2-0.6 parts of thickener; 5-10 parts of moisturizer; and water as the balance.

[0013] Preferably, the UV sunscreen agent is three or more of the following: ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, hexyl diethylaminohydroxybenzoyl benzoate, ethylhexyl triazine ketone, octocrylene, or titanium dioxide. Among these, ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, hexyl diethylaminohydroxybenzoyl benzoate, ethylhexyl triazine ketone, and octocrylene are oil-soluble sunscreen agents.

[0014] Preferably, the emulsifier is one or more of sucrose polystearate, cetyl palmitate, polysorbate-60, or potassium cetyl phosphate.

[0015] Preferably, the emollient is one or more of polydimethylsiloxane, dibutyl adipate, and cetearyl alcohol.

[0016] Preferably, the film-forming agent is triacontyl PVP.

[0017] Preferably, the moisturizer is one or more of glycerin, butylene glycol or pentanediol.

[0018] Preferably, the thickener is ammonium acryloyldimethyl taurate / VP copolymer or xanthan gum. 。 The mass ratio of ammonium acryloyldimethyl taurate / VP copolymer to xanthan gum is 4:1 to 3:1.

[0019] Compared with the prior art, the present invention has at least the following beneficial effects:

[0020] The photoprotective composition provided by this invention comprises soluble collagen and amla fruit extract. Soluble collagen, in addition to its anti-wrinkle effects, also possesses photosensitive film-forming properties, meaning it can form a continuous thin film under light conditions, and can be used as a film-forming agent to a certain extent. After solidification, the film provides good protection against ultraviolet radiation, offering comprehensive photoprotection for the skin. Amla fruit extract effectively protects against keratinocyte apoptosis, oxidation, and inflammatory damage caused by UVA / UVB, exhibiting excellent antioxidant and anti-inflammatory effects and a significant ability to prevent ultraviolet damage. As can be seen from test examples 2-3, the two components work synergistically, not only effectively absorbing and utilizing light but also providing UV protection, effectively increasing the sun protection factor and achieving comprehensive photoprotection for the skin. Attached Figure Description

[0021] Figure 1 shows the sun protection factor test results in Test Example 2 of the present invention.

[0022] Figure 2 shows the phenotypic results of the anti-wrinkle efficacy measurement experiment (UVB-induced model) of zebrafish in Test Example 3 of the present invention.

[0023] Figure 3 shows the results (quantitative) of the anti-wrinkle efficacy test of zebrafish anti-wrinkle evaluation experiment (UVB-induced model) in Test Example 3 of the present invention. Detailed Implementation

[0024] The technical solution of the present invention will be further described below with reference to the accompanying drawings and specific embodiments. However, the following examples are merely simplified examples of the present invention and do not represent or limit the scope of protection of the present invention. The scope of protection of the present invention is determined by the claims.

[0025] Unless otherwise specified, the raw materials and materials used in the embodiments of the present invention were purchased through general commercial channels.

[0026] The source information of some of the raw materials, materials, and instruments involved in the following embodiments or comparative examples is as follows:

[0027] Water was prepared using a Millipore pure water system; potassium cetyl phosphate was supplied by DSM Nutrition China; butanediol was produced by Shandong Haike Xinyuan Materials Technology Co., Ltd.; ammonium acryloyl dimethyl taurate / VP copolymer was produced by Clariant Chemicals (China) Co., Ltd.; xanthan gum was supplied by Danisco (China) Co., Ltd.; ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate was produced by Anhui Shengnuobei Chemical Technology Co., Ltd.; dibutyl adipate, diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate, sucrose polystearate and cetyl palmitate, and bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine were supplied by BASF; polydimethylsiloxane was supplied by Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd.; triacontyl PVP was produced by Ashland; octocrylene and cetearyl alcohol were supplied by Emery oleochemicals; p-hydroxyacetophenone was produced by Symrise (Shanghai) Co., Ltd.; and 1,2-pentanediol was produced by Lanxess Chemicals (China) Co., Ltd. The above-mentioned sucrose polystearate and cetyl palmitate are a product that is mixed together.

[0028] Soluble collagen is composed of photocurable collagen and photoinitiator, sourced from Chengdu Yizhen Biotechnology Co., Ltd., and its specification is GM8000.

[0029] The amla fruit extract was prepared in the laboratory using the following method:

[0030] 1) Pulverizing step: The dried and cleaned pitted fruit of Phyllanthus emblica, a plant of the Euphorbiaceae family in Yunnan, is pulverized using a plant pulverizer and passed through a 4-6 mesh sieve to obtain Phyllanthus emblica fruit powder raw material.

[0031] 2) Extraction steps: Accurately weigh 100g of crushed Phyllanthus emblica fruit powder, add 1000ml of 60% ethanol-water mixture, reflux at 60℃ for 3 hours, extract twice, combine the filtrates, and extract and filter to obtain the extract.

[0032] 3) Concentration step: The extract is concentrated using a rotary evaporator until it is reduced to 1 / 10 of its original volume and no alcohol odor is detected, thus obtaining a concentrated solution;

[0033] 4) Freeze-drying step: Use a freeze dryer to dry the concentrate into powder at low temperature to obtain amla fruit extract.

[0034] The yield of Phyllanthus emblica fruit extract obtained by this method is ≥60.0%, and the polyphenol content of the obtained Phyllanthus emblica fruit extract is ≥40.0%, and the gallic acid content is ≥2.0%.

[0035] Examples 1-3 and Comparative Examples 1-3

[0036] The following are Examples 1-3 and Comparative Examples 1-3. Different sunscreen cosmetics (sunscreen lotions) were prepared according to the following methods. The specific components are shown in Table 1 and the performance is shown in Table 2.

[0037] S1. Accurately weigh each component according to the formula in Table 1;

[0038] S2, add purified water into the main mixing tank, and add the premixed components of phase A (potassium cetyl phosphate, thickener (ammonium acryloyl dimethyl taurate / VP copolymer, xanthan gum) and polyol (butanediol) into the main mixing tank after they are evenly mixed. Stir and heat to 75℃~85℃ until the material is evenly dispersed.

[0039] S3, oil-soluble chemical sunscreens (ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, hexyl diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl benzoate, bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, octocrylene), dibutyl adipate, polydimethylsiloxane, sucrose polystearate and cetyl palmitate, triacontyl PVP, and cetearyl alcohol are sequentially added to the oil phase premixing tank, heated to 80℃~85℃, dissolved and mixed evenly to obtain phase B;

[0040] S4, add phase B to phase A in the main mixing tank, maintain homogenization emulsification at 75℃~85℃ for 5min~10min until uniform, and then turn on the cooling.

[0041] S5, when the temperature of the main mixing tank drops to 75℃, add phase C (p-hydroxyacetophenone) to the main mixing tank, mix evenly, and continue to cool down;

[0042] S6. When the temperature drops to 40℃~45℃, add 1,2-pentanediol, soluble collagen and amla fruit extract to the main mixing tank in sequence, and continue to stir and cool.

[0043] S7, when the temperature drops to 38℃ or below, filter the material, and after passing the inspection, bottle it to obtain sunscreen lotion.

[0044] Table 1 Sunscreen Lotion Formula

[0045] <Test Example 1>

[0046] Stability tests were conducted on each sunscreen lotion formulation in Table 1. The tests were conducted at -15℃, 25℃, 40℃ and 49℃ for 30 days, 60 days and 90 days respectively. The stability of each sunscreen lotion formulation was observed. All groups of sunscreen formulations passed the stability test. The specific stability test results are shown in Table 2.

[0047] Table 2. Results of stability studies for each group of sunscreen formulations

[0048] <Test Example 2>

[0049] This experiment used the standard in vitro testing method of Colpa 2011 to evaluate the sun protection effect of sunscreen lotions by measuring their ultraviolet absorbance or transmittance. A UV2000s sun protection factor analyzer (Labsphere) was used. Samples were evenly applied to polymethyl methacrylate (PMMA) plates and kept in the dark for 15 minutes. The sun protection factor (SPF) of each group of samples was then measured using an ultraviolet transmittance analyzer (SPF 1). After placing each group of samples under natural light for 2 hours, the SPF was measured again (SPF 2) to evaluate the sun protection performance of each group of sunscreen products, as shown in Table 3 and Figure 1.

[0050] Table 3. Results of SPF testing for each group of sunscreen formulations.

[0051] Figure 1(A) shows the sun protection factor (SPF) of each group of samples without any treatment. Compared with Comparative Examples 2-3, the SPF of Examples 1-3 increased, indicating that soluble collagen and Phyllanthus emblica fruit extract can synergistically enhance the SPF of the formulation.

[0052] Figure 1(B) shows the sun protection factor (SPF) of each group of samples after 2 hours of exposure to natural light. After 2 hours of exposure to natural light, the SPF of Comparative Example 1 decreased significantly. Furthermore, compared to Comparative Examples 2-3, the SPF of Examples 1-3 increased, indicating that the application of soluble collagen and Phyllanthus emblica fruit extract as photoprotective compositions in formulations has certain advantages, such as reducing the frequency of sunscreen application in outdoor activities.

[0053] The sample was evenly applied to a PMMA plate and kept in the dark for 15 minutes. The PMMA plate was then immersed in water for 20 minutes and removed. It was then dried in the dark for 1 hour. The sun protection factor (SPF 3) was tested to evaluate the waterproof performance of each group of products. The results are shown in Table 3 and Figure 1(C).

[0054] As shown in Figure 3(C), after soaking in water for 20 minutes, the sun protection factor (SPF) ranked from highest to lowest was: Example 2 > Example 3 > Example 1 > Comparative Example 3 > Comparative Example 2 > Comparative Example 1. SPSS statistical analysis indicated that the products of Examples 1, 2, and 3 had good waterproof performance, indirectly reflecting the waterproof advantages of soluble collagen and amla fruit extract as a photoprotective composition.

[0055] <Test Example 3>

[0056] Sunlight's ultraviolet radiation causes photoaging, leading to reduced collagen synthesis and the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. This experiment used a zebrafish anti-wrinkle evaluation experiment (UVB-induced model) to assess the anti-photoaging effect of the photoprotective composition.

[0057] Wild-type AB strain zebrafish were selected. Normally developed 2-day-fifth (dpf) zebrafish juveniles were placed in six-well cell culture plates, 15 fish per well. Without harming the juveniles, the embryo culture medium in the six-well cell culture plates was removed, and 3 mL of the corresponding concentration of each group's sample was quickly added to each well. The six-well cell culture plates were wrapped with aluminum foil and incubated in a biochemical incubator at (28.5±1.0℃) in the dark for 2 hours. Then, they were irradiated with UVB light using a phototoxicizer, with an irradiance of approximately 80 mJ / cm². 2 The samples were then incubated in a biochemical incubator at (28.5±1.0℃) in the dark until 3 days post-flop (then incubated for 22 hours), and observed and photographed using a stereomicroscope. The experimental groups were as follows: control group: containing zebrafish juveniles and standard dilution water, no modeling was performed; model group: containing zebrafish juveniles and standard dilution water, modeled under ultraviolet irradiation; experimental group: containing the test substance and zebrafish juveniles, modeled under ultraviolet irradiation.

[0058] Ultraviolet (UV) radiation alters collagen and elastin in the skin structure, causing wrinkling and deformation of the zebrafish tail fin. The phenotypic results of the zebrafish anti-wrinkle efficacy test are shown in Figure 2, and Figure 3 shows the quantification of the zebrafish tail fin area. Under UV irradiation, the tail fins of the model group of zebrafish showed wrinkling. After administration of Phyllanthus emblica extract and soluble collagen, the degree of tail fin wrinkling was reduced, indicating that these two substances have a certain anti-wrinkle effect. The addition of a photoprotective composition significantly reduced the degree of UV-induced zebrafish tail fin wrinkling. Therefore, Phyllanthus emblica extract and soluble collagen can synergistically alleviate UV-induced zebrafish tail fin wrinkling, thus indirectly reflecting that the photoprotective composition can, to some extent, resist photoaging caused by UV radiation.

[0059] Table 4 Results of Zebrafish Anti-wrinkle Test

[0060] The applicant declares that the above are merely specific embodiments of the present invention, but the scope of protection of the present invention is not limited thereto. Those skilled in the art should understand that any variations or substitutions that can be easily conceived by those skilled in the art within the technical scope disclosed in the present invention fall within the scope of protection and disclosure of the present invention.

Claims

1. A photoprotective composition, characterized in that, It includes soluble collagen and amla fruit extract, wherein the mass ratio of the soluble collagen to the amla fruit extract is 75:1 to 25:1, and the soluble collagen includes photocurable collagen and a photoinitiator.

2. The photoprotective composition as claimed in claim 1, characterized in that, The photocurable collagen is collagen modified by acylation of 2-methacrylic anhydride.

3. The photoprotective composition as described in claim 2, characterized in that, The photocurable collagen contains an arginine-glycine-aspartic acid motif and a matrix metalloproteinase substrate motif.

4. The photoprotective composition as claimed in claim 1, characterized in that, The photoinitiator includes one or more of the following: dimethylaminostyrylheptamethylthiazolium iodide, isooctyl p-dimethylaminobenzoate, isoamyl p-dimethylaminobenzoate, 2-hydroxy-2-methylphenylacetone, 2-hydroxy-4'-(2-hydroxyethoxy)-2-methylphenylacetone, lithium phenyl-2,4,6-trimethylbenzoylphosphonate, and 2,2'-(1,2-diazepinel)bis[N-(2-hydroxyethyl)-2-methylpropionamide].

5. The photoprotective composition as claimed in claim 1, characterized in that, The amla fruit extract was extracted from the dried, pitted fruit of Phyllanthus emblica, a plant belonging to the Euphorbiaceae family and the Phyllanthus genus in Yunnan.

6. The use of the light-protecting composition as described in any one of claims 1 to 5 in ultraviolet protection products.

7. A sunscreen cosmetic, characterized in that, Based on a total mass of 100 parts, it includes the following components: UV sunscreen, 5-20 parts; Emulsifier, 1-5 parts; Film-forming agent, 0.5-2 parts; Moisturizer, 5-20 parts; Photoprotective composition, 3-5 parts; Thickener, 0.2-0.6 parts; Moisturizer, 5-10 parts; Water, remaining amount; The light-protecting composition is the light-protecting composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5.

8. The sunscreen cosmetic as described in claim 7, characterized in that, The ultraviolet sunscreen agent is three or more of the following: ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, diethylaminohydroxybenzoylhexyl benzoate, ethylhexyl triazine ketone, octocrylene, or titanium dioxide. The emulsifier is one or more of sucrose polystearate and cetyl palmitate, polysorbate-60 or potassium cetyl phosphate. The emollient is one or more of polydimethylsiloxane, dibutyl adipate, and cetearyl alcohol.

9. The sunscreen cosmetic as described in claim 7, characterized in that, The film-forming agent is triacontyl PVP, and the moisturizer is one or more of glycerin, butylene glycol, or pentanediol.

10. The sunscreen cosmetic as described in claim 7, characterized in that, The thickener is an ammonium acryloyl dimethyl taurate / VP copolymer and xanthan gum in a mass ratio of 4:1 to 3:1.

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