W / o type composition comprising polyion complex and powder

A W/O type cosmetic composition using cationic and anionic polymers, non-polymeric acids, and inorganic oxides forms a stable polyion complex for effective sebum control and comfortable application on skin, addressing stability and environmental concerns.

WO2026110937A1PCT designated stage Publication Date: 2026-05-28LOREAL SA +5
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Patent Information

Authority / Receiving Office
WO · WO
Patent Type
Applications
Current Assignee / Owner
LOREAL SA
Filing Date
2025-10-23
Publication Date
2026-05-28

AI Technical Summary

Technical Problem

Existing cosmetic compositions struggle with stability issues in aqueous and fatty phases, leading to phase separation, and lack effective sebum control, spreadability, and comfortable texture on keratin materials like skin, while also failing to incorporate environmentally-friendly ingredients.

Method used

A W/O type composition comprising cationic and anionic polymers, non-polymeric acids with multiple pKa values, and inorganic oxides, with optional fatty acids and powders, forms a stable polyion complex that provides sebum control, good spreadability, and comfortable texture, using environmentally-friendly ingredients.

Benefits of technology

The composition achieves stable sebum control, matte appearance, and comfortable application on skin by preventing phase separation and ensuring good spreadability and texture, while incorporating sustainable materials.

✦ Generated by Eureka AI based on patent content.

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Abstract

The present invention relates to a composition comprising a plurality of aqueous phases comprising: (a) at least one cationic polymer; (b) at least one non-polymeric acid having two or more pKa values or salt thereof; (c) at least one anionic polymer, and (d) water, and a fatty phase comprising: (e) at least one oil, wherein the aqueous phases are dispersed in the fatty phase, and the composition further comprises (f) at least one first powder comprising (i) at least one inorganic oxide, and (ii) at least one fatty acid or salt thereof. The composition according to the present invention is stable and can provide a keratin material such as skin with, at least, an acceptable level of sebum control, good spreadability and comfortable feeling to use.
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Description

[0001] DESCRIPTION

[0002] TITLE OF INVENTION

[0003] W / O TYPE COMPOSITION COMPRISING POLYION COMPLEX AND POWDER TECHNICAL FIELD

[0004] The present invention relates to a W / O (water-in-oil) type composition including cationic and anionic polymers, and a powder, as well as a cosmetic process using the composition.

[0005] BACKGROUND ART

[0006] As is known in the art, certain cosmetic compositions use a polyion complex which is formed with a cationic polymer and an anionic polymer.

[0007] For example, WO 2023 / 120388 discloses a composition which is useful for cosmetic treatments and comprises at least one polyion complex particle comprising at least one cationic polymer, at least one anionic polymer, and at least one non-polymeric acid having two or more pKa values. WO 2023 / 120388 also discloses that the composition disclosed therein may include oil and may be in the form of an O / W (oil-in-water) emulsion.

[0008] In addition, the formulation of environmentally-friendly cosmetic products, which are designed and developed considering environmental issues, is becoming a major goal in an effort to meet global challenges.

[0009] It is therefore essential to propose more sustainable compositions, preparation processes and ingredients to address these environmental concerns.

[0010] In this context, it is important to develop new cosmetic compositions with a better carbon footprint, particularly by promoting the use of renewable raw materials and / or materials with a good index of naturalness and / or materials of natural origin.

[0011] DISCLOSURE OF INVENTION

[0012] Sebum control on a keratin material such as skin is becoming important, because this can achieve, for example, matte appearance of the keratin material.

[0013] In addition, a composition for sebum control, which is to be applied onto a keratin material such as skin, should be spread well on the keratin material, and should provide comfortable feeling to use.

[0014] Of course, such a composition should be stable such that it does not cause a phase separation, if the composition includes aqueous and fatty phases.

[0015] Therefore, there is a need for a stable W / O type composition which can provide a keratin material such as skin with, at least, an acceptable level of sebum control, good spreadability, and comfortable texture.

[0016] Thus, an objective of the present invention is to provide a stable W / O type composition which can provide a keratin material such as skin with, at least, an acceptable level of sebum control, good spreadability and comfortable texture.

[0017] The above objective of the present invention can be achieved by a composition, preferably a cosmetic composition, and more preferably a cosmetic composition for a keratin material such as skin, comprising

[0018] a plurality of aqueous phases comprising:

[0019] (a) at least one cationic polymer;

[0020] (b) at least one non-polymeric acid having two or more pKa values or salt thereof;

[0021] (c) at least one anionic polymer; and

[0022] (d) water,

[0023] and

[0024] a fatty phase comprising

[0025] (e) at least one oil,

[0026] wherein

[0027] the aqueous phases are dispersed in the fatty phase, and

[0028] the composition further comprises (f) at least one first powder comprising:

[0029] (i) at least one inorganic oxide, preferably metal oxide, and more preferably alkaline earth metal oxide; and

[0030] (ii) at least one fatty acid or salt thereof, preferably saturated fatty acid or salt thereof, and more preferably metal salt of saturated fatty acid.

[0031] The (a) cationic polymer may be selected from polylysines, chitosans, and mixtures thereof. The amount of the (a) cationic polymer(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0032] The (b) non-polymeric acid having two or more pKa values or salt thereof may be an organic acid or salt thereof, preferably a hydrophilic or water-soluble organic acid or salt thereof, and more preferably phytic acid or salt thereof.

[0033] The amount of the (b) non-polymeric acid(s) having two or more pKa values or salt(s) thereof in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.001% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.003% to 5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.005% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0034] The (c) anionic polymer may be selected from the group consisting of polysaccharides such as alginic acid, hyaluronic acid, and cellulose polymers, anionic (co)polyaminoacids such as (co)polyglutamic acids, (co)poly(meth)acrylic acids, (co)polyamic acids, (co)polystyrene sulfonate, (co)poly( vinyl sulfates), dextran sulfate, chondroitin sulfate, (co)polymaleic acids, polyfumaric acids, maleic acid (co)polymers, and salts thereof.

[0035] The amount of the (c) anionic polymer(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0036] The amount of the (d) water in the composition according to the present invention may be from 10% to 50% by weight, preferably from 15% to 45% by weight, and more preferably from 20% to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0037] The amount of the (e) oil(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 10% to 50% by weight, preferably from 15% to 45% by weight, and more preferably from 20% to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0038] The amount of the (f) first powder(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0039] The composition according to the present invention may further comprise (g) at least one second powder selected from particles comprising silica and hydroxyapatite and / or (h) at least one third powder selected from particles comprising silica, titanium dioxide, and magnesium oxide or magnesium hydroxide.

[0040] The amount of the (g) second powder(s) and / or the (h) third powder(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0041] The amount of the aqueous phases in the composition according to the present invention may be from 30% to 70% by weight, preferably from 35% to 65% by weight, and more preferably from 40% to 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0042] The amount of the fatty phase in the composition according to the present invention may be from 30% to 70% by weight, preferably from 35% to 65% by weight, and more preferably from 40% to 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0043] The present invention also relates to a cosmetic process for a keratin material such as skin, comprising:

[0044] applying to the keratin material the composition according to the present invention.

[0045] BEST MODE FOR CARRYING OUT THE INVENTION

[0046] After diligent research, the inventors have discovered that it is possible to provide a W / O type composition which can provide a keratin material, such as skin, with, at least, acceptable sebum control, good spreadability, and comfortable texture.

[0047] Thus, the composition according to the present invention comprises

[0048] a plurality of aqueous phases comprising:

[0049] (a) at least one cationic polymer;

[0050] (b) at least one non-polymeric acid having two or more pKa values or salt thereof;

[0051] (c) at least one anionic polymer; and

[0052] (d) water,

[0053] and

[0054] a fatty phase comprising

[0055] (e) at least one oil,

[0056] wherein

[0057] the aqueous phases are dispersed in the fatty phase, and the composition further comprises (f) at least one first powder comprising:

[0058] (i) at least one inorganic oxide, preferably metal oxide, and more preferably alkaline earth metal oxide; and

[0059] (ii) at least one fatty acid or salt thereof, preferably saturated fatty acid or salt thereof, and more preferably metal salt of saturated fatty acid.

[0060] The (a) cationic polymer and the (c) anionic polymer can form a polyion complex.

[0061] The (a) cationic polymer can be ionically crosslinked by the (b) non-polymeric acid having two or more pKa values or salt thereof. Thus, the polyion complex can also be crosslinked. The composition according to the present invention is stable. For example, the phase separation of the composition according to the present invention can be prevented even under elevated temperature. Thus, the composition according to the present invention can be stored for a long period of time.

[0062] The composition according to the present invention can provide a keratin material such as skin with, at least, an acceptable level of sebum control, preferably good sebum control. Thus, the composition according to the present invention can provide anti-shine effects. Therefore, the composition according to the present invention can provide a keratin material such as skin with matte appearance.

[0063] Further, the composition according to the present invention can provide good spreadability. Thus, the composition according to the present invention can be spread well on a keratin material such as skin.

[0064] Furthermore, the composition according to the present invention can provide comfortable texture such as non-greasiness and non-stickiness.

[0065] Since the (a) cationic polymer and / or the (c) anionic polymer may be obtained from natural resources, the (a) cationic polymer and / or the (c) anionic polymer may be environmentally-friendly. In addition, the (f) first powder and / or the (g) second powder and / or the (h) third powder may be obtained from natural resources, and therefore, they may also be environmentally-friendly. Therefore, the composition according to the present invention can include environmentally-friendly ingredients.

[0066] The composition according to the present invention can be useful for makeup products, in particular for a foundation or a primer, as it can provide, at least, sebum control.

[0067] Hereinafter, the present invention will be explained in a more detailed manner.

[0068] [Composition]

[0069] The composition according to the present invention comprises

[0070] a plurality of aqueous phases comprising:

[0071] (a) at least one cationic polymer;

[0072] (b) at least one non-polymeric acid having two or more pKa values or salt thereof;

[0073] (c) at least one anionic polymer; and

[0074] (d) water,

[0075] and a fatty phase comprising

[0076] (e) at least one oil,

[0077] wherein

[0078] the aqueous phases are dispersed in the fatty phase, and

[0079] the composition further comprises (f) at least one first powder comprising:

[0080] (i) at least one inorganic oxide, preferably metal oxide, and more preferably alkaline earth metal oxide; and

[0081] (ii) at least one fatty acid or salt thereof, preferably saturated fatty acid or salt thereof, and more preferably metal salt of saturated fatty acid.

[0082] Hereinafter, the composition according to the present invention will be explained in a detailed manner.

[0083] (Cationic Polymer)

[0084] The composition according to the present invention comprises (a) at least one cationic polymer.

[0085] There is no limit to the type of the (a) cationic polymer. Two or more different types of cationic polymers may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of cationic polymer or a combination of different types of cationic polymers may be used.

[0086] A cationic polymer has a positive charge density. The charge density of the (a) cationic polymer may be from 0.01 meq / g to 20 meq / g, preferably from 0.05 to 15 meq / g, and more preferably from 0.1 to 10 meq / g.

[0087] The (a) cationic polymer can be included in the aqueous phase including (d) water.

[0088] The molecular weight (Da) of the (a) cationic polymer may be less than 20,000, preferably less than 15,000, and more preferably less than 10,000. In other words, the (a) cationic polymer may have a low molecular weight.

[0089] The molecular weight (Da) of the (a) cationic polymer may be more than 1,000, preferably more than 1,500, and more preferably more than 2,000.

[0090] Thus, the molecular weight (Da) of the (a) cationic polymer may be more than 1,000 and less than 20,000, preferably more than 1,500 and less than 15,000, and more preferably more than 2,000 and less than 10,000.

[0091] Unless otherwise defined in the descriptions, “molecular weight” means a weight average molecular weight. The molecular weight can be measured or determined by a gel permeation chromatography, for example, in accordance with ASTM D5296-19.

[0092] According to the present invention, the (a) cationic polymer may be selected from the group consisting of polylysines, chitosans, mixtures thereof.

[0093] It is preferable that the (a) cationic polymer be selected from polylysines.

[0094] Polylysines correspond to the condensation of several amino acids of lysine. Polylysine can be a natural homopolymer of L-lysine that can be produced by bacterial fermentation. Polylysines are typically used as a natural preservative in food products. Polylysine is a polyelectrolyte which is soluble in polar solvents such as water.

[0095] Polylysine can be, for example, epsilon-polylysine (or referred as “s-polylysine”), which is a condensation of amino groups at the s-position and carboxyl groups of lysines, or alphapolylysine (or referred as “a-polylysine”), which is a condensation of amino groups at the a-position and carboxyl groups of lysines. Polylysine is commercially available in various forms, such as poly D-lysine and poly L-lysine. The polylysine is generally a condensate of L-lysines, i.e., poly L-lysine.

[0096] As an example of polylysine, mention may be made of:

[0097] Epsilon-poly-L-lysine by JNC CORPORATION which is a 25% solution of Epsilon- poly-L-lysine having a molecular weight of around 4,700 in aqueous solution; and Polylysine by Shandong Freda Biotechnology which is in the form of a white to creamy yellow powder and has a molecular weight between 4,130 and 5,776.

[0098] According to one particular embodiment, the polylysine may be a modified polylysine, for example, a polylysine with a fatty chain as described in application FR 2889448, a polylysine with a guanidine or biguanidine function as described in application FR 2851465, a thiolated polylysine as described in the application FR2853533.

[0099] The polylysine may be in the form of organic or inorganic salts. The addition salts with an acid are, for example, the hydrochloric or hydrobromic acid, sulfuric acid, citric acid, succinic acid, tartaric acid, lactic acid, para-toluenesulphonic acid, phosphoric acid, or acetic acid salts; or fatty acid salts, such as linoleic acid, oleic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, behenic acid, and 18-methylicosanoic acid. The addition salts with a base are, for example, a sodium salt, a calcium salt, or a hydroxyalkylamine salt, for example, N-methylglucamine, aminopropane diol or triethanolamine.

[0100] In some preferred embodiments of the present invention, the polylysine of the present invention is present in a form of a single molecule in the composition, or is not covalently bound to other compounds. In one embodiment of the present invention, the polylysine is not covalently bound to dye compounds. In one embodiment of the present invention, the polylysine is not covalently bound to polyorganosiloxane compounds. The term “polyorganosiloxane” is well-known in the art to mean compounds having Si-0 main chain and organic functional groups attached to the main chain.

[0101] In another embodiment of the present invention, the polylysine is in the free form. The term “free form” here indicates that the polylysine is not covalently bound to any other compounds.

[0102] The (a) cationic polymer may be selected from chitosans.

[0103] Chitosan is very uncommon in nature. It is only reported in the exoskeletons of certain insects such as termite queens and in the cell walls of a particular class of fungi, zygomycetes. Chitosan may be obtained by deacetylation of chitin. Chitin is a polysaccharide composed of several N-acetyl-D-glucosamine units linked together by a type bond (1,4).

[0104] The ideal chemical structure of chitosan is a sequence of β-D-glucosamine monomers connected by a glycosidic bond (1→4).

[0105] " Chitosan" according to the present invention means any copolymer formed of constituent units N-acetyl-D-glucosamine and D-glucosamine, whose degree of acetylation is less than 90%, preferably less than 80%, preferably less than 70%, preferably less than 60%, preferably less than 50%. Chitosan consists of glucosamine sugar units (deacetylated units) and N-acetyl-D-glucosamine units (acetylated units) linked together by β type bonds (1,4) and is a polymer of the Poly (N-acetyl-D-glucosamine)-poly (D-glucosamine) type.

[0106] More preferably, the degree of acetylation of chitosan is less than or equal to 40%, preferably less than or equal to 35%, preferably less than or equal to 25%, preferably less than or equal to 15%, and preferably less than or equal to 10%.

[0107] The degree of acetylation is the percentage of acetylated units relative to the number of total units, it can be determined by Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy (FT-IR) or by titration by a strong base.

[0108] The chitosan according to the present invention is preferably a polysaccharide prepared from a fungal origin. In particular, it is extracted and purified from safe and abundant food or biotechnological fungal sources such asAgaricus bisporus or Aspergillus niger.

[0109] The chitosan according to the present invention is preferably derived from the mycelium of a fungus of the Ascomycete type, and in particular Aspergillus niger and / or a Basidiomycete fungus, and in particular Lentinula edodes (shiitake) and / or Agaricus bisporus. Preferably the fungus is Aspergillus niger.

[0110] Chitosan may be of GMO (Genetically Modified Organisms) origin, but preferably is of nonGMO origin.

[0111] The chitosan according to the present invention is native, that is to say, that it is not modified. In particular, it does not contain any chemical modification.

[0112] One method of preparing chitosan is that described in WO 03 / 068824.

[0113] Preferably, the chitosan used in the present invention is in a powder form. It is marketed by Glentham Life Science under the name GU3511.

[0114] The amount of the (a) cationic polymer(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0115] The amount of the (a) cationic polymer(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 15% by weight or less, preferably 10% by weight or less, and more preferably 5% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0116] The amount of the (a) cationic polymer(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. (Non-Polymeric Acid Having Two or More Acid Dissociation Constants)

[0117] The composition according to the present invention comprises (b) at least one non-polymeric acid having two or more pKa values or salt thereof, i.e., at least one non-polymeric acid having two or more acid dissociation constants or salt thereof. The pKa value (acid dissociation constant) is well known to those skilled in the art, and should be determined at a constant temperature such as 25°C.

[0118] The (b) non-polymeric acid having two or more pKa values or salt thereof can be included in the aqueous phase including (d) water. The non-polymeric acid having two or more pKa values can function as a crosslinker for the (a) cationic polymer.

[0119] The term “non-polymeric” here means that the acid is not obtained by polymerizing two or more monomers. Therefore, the non-polymeric acid does not correspond to an acid obtained by polymerizing two or more monomers, such as polyacrylic acid.

[0120] It is preferable that the molecular weight of the (b) non-polymeric acid having two or more pKa values or salt thereof is 1000 or less, preferably 800 or less, and more preferably 700 or less.

[0121] There is no limit to the type of the (b) non-polymeric acid having two or more pKa values or salt thereof. Two or more different types of (b) non-polymeric acids having two or more pKa values or salts thereof may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of a (b) non-polymeric acid having two or more pKa values or salt thereof or a combination of different types of (b) non-polymeric acids having two or more pKa values or salts thereof may be used. The term "salt" here means a salt formed by addition of suitable base(s) to the non-polymeric acid having two or more pKa values, which may be obtained from a reaction with the non-polymeric acid having two or more pKa values with the base(s) according to methods known to those skilled in the art. As the salt, mention may be made of metal salts, for example salts with alkaline metal such as Na and K, and salts with alkaline earth metal such as Mg and Ca, and ammonium salts.

[0122] The non-polymeric acid having two or more pKa values or salt thereof may be an organic acid or salt thereof, and preferably a hydrophilic or water-soluble organic acid or salt thereof. The non-polymeric acid having two or more pKa values may have at least two acid groups selected from the group consisting of a carboxylic group, a sulfuric group, a sulfonic group, a phosphoric group, a phosphonic group, a phenolic hydroxyl group, and a mixture thereof. The non-polymeric acid having two or more pKa values may be a non-polymeric polyvalent acid such as phosphoric acid.

[0123] The non-polymeric acid having two or more pKa values may be selected from the group consisting of dicarboxylic acids, disulfonic acids, and diphosphoric acids, and a mixture thereof.

[0124] The (b) non-polymeric acid having two or more pKa values or salt thereof may be selected from the group consisting of oxalic acid, malonic acid, succinic acid, glutaric acid, adipic acid, pimelic acid, suberic acid, azelaic acid, sebacic acid, fumaric acid, maleic acid, malic acid, citric acid, aconitic acid, oxaloacetic acid, tartaric acid, and salts thereof; aspartic acid, glutamic acid, and salts thereof; terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid or salts thereof (Mexoryl SX), Benzophenone-9; phytic acid, and salts thereof; Red 2 (Amaranth), Red 102 (New Coccine), Yellow 5 (Tartrazine), Yellow 6 (Sunset Yellow FCF), Green 3 (Fast Green FCF), Blue 1 (Brilliant Blue FCF), Blue 2 (Indigo Carmine), Red 201 (Lithol Rubine B), Red 202 (Lithol Rubine BCA), Red 204 (Lake Red CBA), Red 206 (Lithol Red CA), Red 207 (Lithol Red BA), Red 208 (Lithol Red SR), Red 219 (Brilliant Lake Red R), Red 220 (Deep Maroon), Red 227 (Fast Acid Magenta), Yellow 203 (Quinoline Yellow WS), Green 201 (Alizanine Cyanine Green F), Green 204 (Pyranine Cone), Green 205 (Light Green SF Yellowish), Blue 203 (Patent Blue CA), Blue 205 (Alfazurine FG), Red 401 (Violamine R), Red 405 (Permanent Re F5R), Red 502 (Ponceau 3R), Red 503 (Ponceau R), Red 504 (Ponceau SX), Green 401 (Naphtol Green B), Green 402 (Guinea Green B), and Black 401 (Naphtol Blue Black); folic acid, ascorbic acid, erythorbic acid, and salts thereof; cystine and salts thereof; EDTA and salts thereof; glycyrrhizin and salts thereof; and a mixture thereof. It may be preferable that the (b) non-polymeric acid having two or more pKa values or salt thereof be selected from the group consisting of terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid and salts thereof (Mexoryl SX), Yellow 6 (Sunset Yellow FCF), ascorbic acid, phytic acid and salts thereof, and a mixture thereof.

[0125] The (b) non-polymeric acid having two or more pKa values or salt thereof may be an organic acid or salt thereof, preferably a hydrophilic or water-soluble organic acid or salt thereof, and more preferably phytic acid or salt thereof.

[0126] The amount of the (b) non-polymeric acid(s) having two or more pKa values or salt(s) thereof in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.001% by weight or more, preferably 0.003% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.005% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0127] The amount of the (b) non-polymeric acid(s) having two or more pKa values or salt(s) thereof in the composition according to the present invention may be 10% by weight or less, preferably 5% by weight or less, and more preferably 1% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0128] The amount of the (b) non-polymeric acid(s) having two or more pKa values or salt(s) thereof in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.001% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.003% to 5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.005% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0129] (Anionic Polymer)

[0130] The composition according to the present invention comprises (c) at least one anionic polymer. A single type of anionic polymer may be used, or two or more different types of anionic polymers may be used in combination.

[0131] An anionic polymer has a negative charge density. The charge density of the (c) anionic polymer may be from 0.1 meq / g to 20 meq / g, preferably from 1 meq / g to 15 meq / g, and more preferably from 4 meq / g to 10 meq / g if the (c) anionic polymer is a synthetic anionic polymer, and the average substitution degree of the (c) anionic polymer may be from 0.1 to 3.0, preferably from 0.2 to 2.7, and more preferably from 0.3 to 2.5 if the (c) anionic polymer is a natural anionic polymer.

[0132] It may be preferable that the molecular weight of the (c) anionic polymer be 1,000 or more, preferably 2,000 or more, even more preferably 5,000 or more, even more preferably 10,000 or more, even more preferably 50,000 or more, even more preferably 100,000 or more, and even more preferably 1,000,000 or more.

[0133] Unless otherwise defined in the descriptions, “molecular weight” may mean a weight average molecular weight.

[0134] The (c) anionic polymer may have at least one negatively chargeable and / or negatively charged moiety selected from the group consisting of a sulfuric group, a sulfate group, a sulfonic group, a sulfonate group, a phosphoric group, a phosphate group, a phosphonic group, a phosphonate group, a carboxylic group, and a carboxylate group.

[0135] The (c) anionic polymer may be a homopolymer or a copolymer. The term “copolymer” is understood to mean both copolymers obtained from two kinds of monomers and those obtained from more than two kinds of monomers, such as terpolymers obtained from three kinds of monomers.

[0136] The (c) anionic polymer may be selected from natural and synthetic anionic polymers, and preferably from natural anionic polymers.

[0137] The (c) anionic polymer may comprise at least one hydrophobic chain.

[0138] The (c) anionic polymer which may comprise at least one hydrophobic chain may be obtained by copolymerization of a monomer (i) chosen from carboxylic acids comprising a, P-ethylenic unsaturation (monomer i’) and 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid (monomer i”) with a non-surface-active monomer (ii) comprising an ethylenic unsaturation other than (i) and / or a monomer (iii) comprising an ethylenic unsaturation resulting from the reaction of an acrylic monomer comprising an α,β-monoethylenic unsaturation or of an isocyanate monomer comprising a monoethylenic unsaturation with a monohydric nonionic amphiphilic component or with a primary or secondary fatty amine.

[0139] Thus, the (c) anionic polymer with at least one hydrophobic chain may be obtained by two synthetic routes:

[0140] - either by copolymerization of the monomers (i’) and (iii), or (i’), (ii) and (iii), or (i”) and (iii), or (i”), (ii) and (iii),

[0141] - or by modification (and in particular esterification or amidation) of a copolymer formed from the monomers (i’) or from the monomers (i’) and (ii), or (i”) and (ii), by a monohydric nonionic amphiphilic compound or a primary or secondary fatty amine.

[0142] Mention may in particular be made, as 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid copolymers, of those disclosed in the article “Micelle formation of random copolymers of sodium 2-(acrylamido)-2 -methylpropanesulfonate and nonionic surfactant macromonomer in water as studied by fluorescence and dynamic light scattering - Macromolecules, 2000, Vol.

[0143] 33, No. 10 - 3694-3704” and in applications EP-A-0 750 899 and EP-A-1 069 172.

[0144] The carboxylic acid comprising an a, P-monoethylenic unsaturation constituting the monomer (a’) can be chosen from numerous acids and in particular from acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, crotonic acid, itaconic acid and maleic acid. It is preferably acrylic or methacrylic acid.

[0145] The copolymer can comprise a monomer (ii) comprising a monoethylenic unsaturation which does not have a surfactant property. The preferred monomers are those which give waterinsoluble polymers when they are homopolymerized. They can be chosen, for example, from C1-C4 alkyl acrylates and methacrylates, such as methyl acrylate, ethyl acrylate, butyl acrylate or the corresponding methacrylates. The more particularly preferred monomers are methyl acrylate and ethyl acrylate. The other monomers which can be used are, for example, styrene, vinyltoluene, vinyl acetate, acrylonitrile and vinylidene chloride. Unreactive monomers are preferred, these monomers being those in which the single ethylenic group is the only group which is reactive under the polymerization conditions. However, monomers which comprise groups which react under the effect of heat, such as hydroxy ethyl acrylate, can optionally be used.

[0146] The monomer (iii) is obtained by reaction of an acrylic monomer comprising a,p-monoethylenic unsaturation, such as (i), or of an isocyanate monomer comprising monoethylenic unsaturation with a monohydric nonionic amphiphilic compound or a primary or secondary fatty amine.

[0147] The monohydric nonionic amphiphilic compounds or the primary or secondary fatty amines used to produce the nonionic monomer (iii) are well known. The monohydric nonionic amphiphilic compounds are generally alkoxylated hydrophobic compounds comprising an alkylene oxide forming the hydrophilic part of the molecule. The hydrophobic compounds are generally composed of an aliphatic alcohol or an alkylphenol, in which a carbonaceous chain comprising at least six carbon atoms constitutes the hydrophobic part of the amphiphilic compound.

[0148] The preferred monohydric nonionic amphiphilic compounds are compounds having the following formula (V):

[0149] R-(OCH2CHR’)m-(OCH2CH2)n-OH (V)

[0150] in which R is chosen from alkyl or alkylene groups comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms and alkylaryl groups having alkyl radicals comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, R’ is chosen from alkyl groups comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, n is a mean number ranging from approximately 1 to 150 and m is a mean number ranging from approximately 0 to 50, provided that n is at least as great as m.

[0151] Preferably, in the compounds of formula (V), the R group is chosen from alkyl groups comprising from 12 to 26 carbon atoms and alkylphenyl groups in which the alkyl group is C8-C13; the R’ group is the methyl group; m = 0 and n = 1 to 25.

[0152] The preferred primary and secondary fatty amines are composed of one or two alkyl chains comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms.

[0153] The monomer used to form the nonionic urethane monomer (iii) can be chosen from highly varied compounds. Use may be made of any compound comprising a copolymerizable unsaturation, such as an acrylic, methacrylic or allylic unsaturation. The monomer (iii) can be obtained in particular from an isocyanate comprising a monoethylenic unsaturation, such as, in particular, a,a-dimethyl-m-isopropenylbenzyl isocyanate. The monomer (iii) can be chosen in particular from acrylates, methacrylates or itaconates of oxyethylenated (1 to 50 EO) C6-C30 fatty alcohol, such as steareth-20 methacrylate, oxyethylenated (25 EO) behenyl methacrylate, oxyethylenated (20 EO) monocetyl itaconate, oxyethylenated (20 EO) monostearyl itaconate or the acrylate modified by polyoxyethylenated (25 EO) C12-C24 alcohols and from dimethyl-m-isopropenylbenzyl isocyanates of oxyethylenated (1 to 50 EO) C6-C30 fatty alcohol, such as, in particular, the dimethyl-m-isopropenylbenzyl isocyanate of oxyethylenated behenyl alcohol.

[0154] According to a specific embodiment of the present invention, the (c) anionic polymer is chosen from acrylic terpolymers obtained from (i) a carboxylic acid comprising an a, P-ethylenic unsaturation, (ii) a non-surface-active monomer comprising an ethylenic unsaturation other than (i), and (iii) a nonionic urethane monomer which is the reaction product of a monohydric nonionic amphiphilic compound with an isocyanate comprising a monoethylenic unsaturation.

[0155] Mention may in particular be made, as the (c) anionic polymers comprising at least one hydrophobic chain, of the acrylic acid / ethyl acrylate / alkyl acrylate terpolymer, such as the product as a 30% aqueous dispersion sold under the name Acusol 823 by Rohm & Haas; the acrylates / steareth-20 methacrylate copolymer, such as the product sold under the name Aculyn 22 by Rohm & Haas; the (meth)acrylic acid / ethyl acrylate / oxyethylenated (25 EO) behenyl methacrylate terpolymer, such as the product as an aqueous emulsion sold under the name Aculyn 28 by Rohm & Haas; the acrylic acid / oxyethylenated (20 EO) monocetyl itaconate copolymer, such as the product as a 30% aqueous dispersion sold under the name Structure 3001 by National Starch; the acrylic acid / oxyethylenated (20 EO) monostearyl itaconate copolymer, such as the product as a 30% aqueous dispersion sold under the name Structure 2001 by National Starch; the acrylates / acrylate modified by polyoxyethylenated (25 EO) C12-C24 alcohol copolymer, such as the 30-32% copolymer latex sold under the name Synthalen W2000 by 3V SA; or the methacrylic acid / methyl acrylate / dimethyl-meta-isopropenylbenzyl isocyanate of ethoxylated behenyl alcohol terpolymer, such as the product as a 24% aqueous dispersion and comprising 40 ethylene oxide groups disclosed in the document EP -A-0 173 109.

[0156] The (c) anionic polymers may also be Polyester-5, such as the product sold under the name of Eastman AQ™ 55S Polymer by EASTMAN CHEMICAL having a chemical formula below.

[0157] HO-G-A-G-A-G-A-G-A-G-A-G-A-G-A-G-A-G-OH

[0158] I 1

[0159]

[0160] SO3'Na+SO3’Na+A: dicarboxylic acid moiety

[0161] G: glycol moiety

[0162] SO3-Na+: sodium sulfo group

[0163] OH: hydroxyl group

[0164] It may be preferable that the (c) anionic polymer be selected from the group consisting of polysaccharides such as alginic acid, hyaluronic acid, xanthan gum, and cellulose polymers (e.g., carboxymethylcellulose), anionic (co)polyaminoacids such as (co)poly glutamic acids, (co)poly(meth)acrylic acids, (co)polyamic acids, (co)polystyrene sulfonate, (co)poly(vinyl sulfate), dextran sulfate, chondroitin sulfate, (co)polymaleic acids, (co)polyfumaric acids, maleic acid (co)polymers, and salts thereof (e.g., sodium carboxymethylcellulose or cellulose gum).

[0165] The maleic acid copolymer may comprise one or more maleic acid comonomers, and one or more comonomers chosen from vinyl acetate, vinyl alcohol, vinylpyrrolidone, olefins comprising from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, and styrene.

[0166] Thus, the "maleic acid copolymer" is understood to mean any polymer obtained by copolymerization of one or more maleic acid comonomers and of one or more comonomers chosen from vinyl acetate, vinyl alcohol, vinylpyrrolidone, olefins comprising from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, such as octadecene, ethylene, isobutylene, diisobutylene or isooctylene, and styrene, the maleic acid comonomers optionally being partially or completely hydrolysed. Use will preferably be made of hydrophilic polymers, that is to say, polymers having a solubility of water of greater than or equal to 2 g / 1.

[0167] In an advantageous aspect of the present invention, the maleic acid copolymer may have a molar fraction of maleic acid units of between 0.1 and 1, more preferably between 0.4 and 0.9.

[0168] The weight-average molar mass of the maleic acid copolymer may be between 1,000 and 500,000, and preferably between 1,000 and 50,000.

[0169] It is preferable that the maleic acid copolymer be a styrene / maleic acid copolymer, and more preferably sodium styrene / maleic acid copolymer.

[0170] Use will preferably be made of a copolymer of styrene and of maleic acid in a 50 / 50 ratio. Use may be made, for example, of the styrene / maleic acid (50 / 50) copolymer, in the form of an ammonium salt at 30% in water, sold under the reference SMA1000H® by Cray Valley or the styrene / maleic acid (50 / 50) copolymer, in the form of a sodium salt at 40% in water, sold under the reference SMA1000HNa® by Cray Valley.

[0171] The use of the styrene / maleic acid copolymer such as sodium styrene / maleic acid copolymer can improve the wettability of a film prepared by the composition according to the present invention.

[0172] In a preferable embodiment, the (c) anionic polymer may be selected from hyaluronic acid, salts thereof (e.g., sodium hyaluronate), and derivatives thereof.

[0173] Hyaluronic acid can be represented by the following chemical formula.

[0174]

[0175] In the context of the present invention, the term "hyaluronic acid" covers in particular the basic unit of hyaluronic acid of formula:

[0176] CH2OH

[0177]

[0178] It is the smallest fraction of hyaluronic acid comprising a disaccharide dimer, namely D-glucuronic acid and N-acetylglucosamine.

[0179] The term "hyaluronic acid and derivatives thereof also comprises, in the context of the present invention, the linear polymer comprising the polymeric unit described above, linked together in the chain via alternating P(l,4) and p(l,3) glycosidic linkages, having a molecular weight (MW) that can range between 380 and 13 000000 daltons. This molecular weight depends in large part on the source from which the hyaluronic acid is obtained and / or on the preparation methods.

[0180] The term "hyaluronic acid and derivatives thereof' also comprises, in the context of the present invention, the hyaluronic acid salts. As the salts, mention may be made of alkaline metal salts such as sodium salts and potassium salts, alkaline earth metal salts such as magnesium salts, ammonium salts, and mixtures thereof.

[0181] In the natural state, hyaluronic acid is present in pericellular gels, in the base substance of the connective tissues of vertebrate organs such as the dermis and epithelial tissues, and in particular in the epidermis, in the synovial fluid of the joints, in the vitreous humor, in the human umbilical cord and in the crista galli apophysis.

[0182] Thus, the term "hyaluronic acid and derivatives thereof' comprises all the fractions or subunits of hyaluronic acid having a molecular weight in particular within the molecular weight range recalled above.

[0183] In the context of the present invention, hyaluronic acid fractions which do not have an inflammatory activity are preferably used.

[0184] By way of illustration of the various hyaluronic acid fractions, reference may be made to the document " Hyaluronan fragments: an information-rich system", R. Stem et al., European Journal of Cell Biology 58 (2006) 699-715, which reviews the listed biological activities of hyaluronic acid according to its molecular weight.

[0185] According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the hyaluronic acid fractions suitable for the use covered by the present invention have a molecular weight of between 50 000 and 5 000000, in particular between 100000 and 5 000000, especially between 400000 and 5 000000 Da. In this case, the term used is high-molecular- weight hyaluronic acid. Alternatively, the hyaluronic acid fractions that may also be suitable for the use covered by the present invention have a molecular weight of between 50000 and 400000 Da. In this case, the term used is intermediate-molecular-weight hyaluronic acid.

[0186] Alternatively again, the hyaluronic acid fractions that may be suitable for the use covered by the present invention have a molecular weight of less than 50000 Da. In this case, the term used is low-molecular-weight hyaluronic acid.

[0187] Finally, the term "hyaluronic acid and derivatives thereof' also comprises hyaluronic acid esters in particular those in which all or some of the carboxylic groups of the acid functions are esterified with oxyethylenated alkyls or alcohols, containing from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, in particular with a degree of substitution at the level of the D-glucuronic acid of the hyaluronic acid ranging from 0.5 to 50%.

[0188] Mention may in particular be made of methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, n-pentyl, benzyl and dodecyl esters of hyaluronic acid. Such esters have in particular been described in D. Campoccia et al. " Semisynthetic resorbable materials from hyaluronan esterification", Biomaterials 19 (1998) 2101-2127.

[0189] The hyaluronic acid derivative may be, for example, acetylated hyaluronic acid or salt thereof. The molecular weights indicated above are also valid for the hyaluronic acid esters.

[0190] Hyaluronic acid may in particular be hyaluronic acid supplied by the company Hyactive under the trade name CPN (MW: 10 to 150 kDa), by the company Soliance under the trade name Cristalhyal (MW: 1.1. times.106), by the company Bioland under the name Nutra HA (MW: 820000 Da), by the company Bioland under the name Nutra AF (MW: 69000 Da), by the company Bioland under the name Oligo HA (MW: 6100 Da) or else by the company Vam Farmacos Metica under the name D Factor (MW: 380 Da).

[0191] The amount of the (c) anionic polymer(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0192] The amount of the (c) anionic polymer(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 15% by weight or less, preferably 10% by weight or less, and more preferably 5% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0193] The amount of the (c) anionic polymer(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0194] (Water)

[0195] The composition according to the present invention comprises (d) water.

[0196] The (d) water can constitute the aqueous phases, which can be dispersed or discontinuous phases, in the composition according to the present invention.

[0197] The amount of the (d) water may be 10% by weight or more, preferably 15% by weight or more, and more preferably 20% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0198] The amount of the (d) water may be 50% by weight or less, preferably 45% by weight or less, and more preferably 40% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition. The amount of the (d) water may be from 10% to 50% by weight, preferably from 15% to 45% by weight, and more preferably from 20% to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0199] (Oil)

[0200] The composition according to the present invention comprises (e) at least one oil. If two or more (e) oils are used, they may be the same or different.

[0201] The (e) oil(s) can constitute a fatty phase, which can be a continuous phase, in the composition according to the present invention.

[0202] Here, “oil” means a fatty compound or substance which is in the form of a liquid or a paste (non-solid) at room temperature (25°C) under atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). As the oils, those generally used in cosmetics can be used alone or in combination thereof. These oils may be volatile or non-volatile.

[0203] The (e) oil may be a non-polar oil such as a hydrocarbon oil, a silicone oil, or the like; a polar oil such as a plant or animal oil and an ester oil or an ether oil; or a mixture thereof.

[0204] The (e) oil may be selected from the group consisting of oils of plant or animal origin, synthetic oils, silicone oils, hydrocarbon oils and fatty alcohols.

[0205] As examples of plant oils, mention may be made of, for example, apricot oil, linseed oil, camellia oil, macadamia nut oil, com oil, mink oil, olive oil, avocado oil, sasanqua oil, castor oil, safflower oil, jojoba oil, sunflower oil, almond oil, rapeseed oil, sesame oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, and mixtures thereof.

[0206] As examples of animal oils, mention may be made of, for example, squalene and squalane. As examples of synthetic oils, mention may be made of alkane oils such as isododecane and isohexadecane, ester oils, ether oils, and artificial triglycerides.

[0207] The ester oils are preferably liquid esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched Ci- C26 aliphatic monoacids or polyacids and of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched Ci- C26 aliphatic monoalcohols or polyalcohols, the total number of carbon atoms of the esters being greater than or equal to 10.

[0208] Preferably, for the esters of monoalcohols, at least one from among the alcohol and the acid from which the esters of the present invention are derived is branched.

[0209] Among the monoesters of monoacids and of monoalcohols, mention may be made of ethyl palmitate, ethyl hexyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl myristate or ethyl myristate, isocetyl stearate, 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate, isononyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate and isostearyl neopentanoate.

[0210] Esters of C4-C22 dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and of C1-C22 alcohols, and esters of monocarboxylic, dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and of non-sugar C4-C26 dihydroxy, trihydroxy, tetrahydroxy or pentahydroxy alcohols may also be used.

[0211] Mention may especially be made of: diethyl sebacate; isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate; diisopropyl sebacate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; di-n-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) adipate; diisostearyl adipate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) maleate; triisopropyl citrate; triisocetyl citrate; triisostearyl citrate; glyceryl trilactate; glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; diethylene glycol diisononanoate.

[0212] As ester oils, one can use sugar esters and diesters of C6-C30 and preferably C12-C22 fatty acids. It is recalled that the term “sugar” means oxygen-bearing hydrocarbon-based compounds containing several alcohol functions, with or without aldehyde or ketone functions, and which comprise at least 4 carbon atoms. These sugars may be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides or polysaccharides.

[0213] Examples of suitable sugars that may be mentioned include sucrose (or saccharose), glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose and lactose, and derivatives thereof, especially alkyl derivatives, such as methyl derivatives, for instance methylglucose.

[0214] The sugar esters of fatty acids may be chosen especially from the group comprising the esters or mixtures of esters of sugars described previously and of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C6-C30 and preferably C12-C22 fatty acids. If they are unsaturated, these compounds may have one to three conjugated or non-conjugated carbon-carbon double bonds. The esters according to this variant may also be selected from monoesters, diesters, triesters, tetraesters and polyesters, and mixtures thereof.

[0215] These esters may be, for example, oleates, laurates, palmitates, myristates, behenates, cocoates, stearates, linoleates, linolenates, caprates and arachidonates, or mixtures thereof such as, especially, oleopalmitate, oleostearate and palmitostearate mixed esters, as well as pentaerythrityl tetraethyl hexanoate.

[0216] More particularly, use is made of monoesters and diesters and especially sucrose, glucose or methylglucose monooleates or dioleates, stearates, behenates, oleopalmitates, linoleates, linolenates and oleostearates.

[0217] An example that may be mentioned is the product sold under the name Glucate® DO by the company Amerchol, which is a methylglucose dioleate.

[0218] As examples of preferable ester oils, mention may be made of, for example, diisopropyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, 2-ethylhexyl hexanoate, ethyl laurate, cetyl octanoate, octyldodecyl octanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, myristyl propionate, 2-ethylhexyl 2-ethylhexanoate, 2-ethylhexyl octanoate, 2-ethylhexyl caprylate / caprate, methyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate, isononyl isononanoate, ethylhexyl palmitate, isohexyl laurate, hexyl laurate, isocetyl stearate, isopropyl isostearate, isopropyl myristate, isodecyl oleate, glyceryl tri(2-ethylhexanoate), pentaerythrityl tetra(2-ethylhexanoate), 2-ethylhexyl succinate, diethyl sebacate, and mixtures thereof.

[0219] As examples of artificial triglycerides, mention may be made of, for example, capryl caprylyl glycerides, glyceryl trimyristate, glyceryl tripalmitate, glyceryl trilinolenate, glyceryl trilaurate, glyceryl tricaprate, glyceryl tricaprylate, glyceryl tri(caprate / caprylate) and glyceryl tri(caprate / caprylate / linolenate).

[0220] As examples of silicone oils, mention may be made of, for example, linear organopolysiloxanes such as dimethylpolysiloxane, methylphenylpolysiloxane, methylhydrogenpolysiloxane, and the like; cyclic organopolysiloxanes such as cyclohexasiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, and the like; and mixtures thereof.

[0221] Preferably, silicone oil is chosen from liquid polydialkylsiloxanes, especially liquid polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) and liquid polyorganosiloxanes comprising at least one aryl group.

[0222] These silicone oils may also be organomodified. The organomodified silicones that can be used according to the present invention are silicone oils as defined above and comprise in their structure one or more organofunctional groups attached via a hydrocarbon-based group. Organopolysiloxanes are defined in greater detail in Walter Noll’s Chemistry and Technology of Silicones (1968), Academic Press. They may be volatile or non-volatile.

[0223] When they are volatile, the silicones are more particularly chosen from those having a boiling point of between 60°C and 260°C, and even more particularly from:

[0224] (i) Cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes comprising from 3 to 7 and preferably 4 to 5 silicon atoms. These are, for example, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane sold in particular under the name Volatile Silicone® 7207 by Union Carbide or Silbione® 70045 V2 by Rhodia, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane sold under the name Volatile Silicone® 7158 by Union Carbide, Silbione® 70045 V5 by Rhodia, and dodecamethylcyclopentasiloxane sold under the name Silsoft 1217 by Momentive Performance Materials, and mixtures thereof. Mention may also be made of cyclocopolymers of the type such as dimethylsiloxane / methylalkylsiloxane, such as Silicone Volatile® FZ 3109 sold by the company Union Carbide, of formula:

[0225] — D" — D' ——————— D"—D' —

[0226]

[0227] CH3CH3

[0228] I

[0229] with D": — Si - O — and with D': -Si-O —

[0230] | CH3C8H17

[0231] Mention may also be made of mixtures of cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes with organosilicon compounds, such as the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and tetratrimethylsilylpentaerythritol (50 / 50) and the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and oxy- 1,1’ -bis(2,2,2’,2 ’,3,3’ -hexatrimethylsilyloxy)neopentane; and

[0232] (ii) Linear volatile polydialkylsiloxanes containing 2 to 9 silicon atoms and having a viscosity of less than or equal to 5×10-6m2 / s at 25°C. An example is decamethyltetrasiloxane sold in particular under the name SH 200 by the company Toray Silicone. Silicones belonging to this category are also described in the article published in Cosmetics and Toiletries, Vol. 91, Jan. 76, pp. 27-32, Todd & Byers, Volatile Silicone Fluids for Cosmetics. The viscosity of the silicones is measured at 25°C according to ASTM standard 445 Appendix C.

[0233] Non-volatile polydialkylsiloxanes may also be used. These non-volatile silicones are more particularly chosen from polydialkylsiloxanes, among which mention may be made mainly of polydimethylsiloxanes containing trimethylsilyl end groups.

[0234] Among these polydialkylsiloxanes, mention may be made, in a non-limiting manner, of the following commercial products:

[0235] the Silbione® oils of the 47 and 70047 series or the Mirasil® oils sold by Rhodia, for instance the oil 70047 V 500000;

[0236] the oils of the Mirasil® series sold by the company Rhodia;

[0237] the oils of the 200 series from the company Dow Coming, such as DC200 with a viscosity of 60,000 mm2 / s; and

[0238] the Viscasil® oils from General Electric and certain oils of the SF series (SF 96, SF 18) from General Electric.

[0239] Mention may also be made of polydimethylsiloxanes containing dimethylsilanol end groups known under the name dimethiconol (CTFA), such as the oils of the 48 series from the company Rhodia.

[0240] Among the silicones containing aryl groups, mention may be made of polydiarylsiloxanes, especially poly diphenylsiloxanes and polyalkylarylsiloxanes such as phenyl silicone oil. The phenyl silicone oil may be chosen from the phenyl silicones of the following formula:

[0241]

[0242] in which

[0243] R1 to R10, independently of each other, are saturated or unsaturated, linear, cyclic or branched C1-C30 hydrocarbon-based radicals, preferably C1-C12 hydrocarbon-based radicals, and more preferably C1-C6 hydrocarbon-based radicals, in particular methyl, ethyl, propyl or butyl radicals, and

[0244] m, n, p and q are, independently of each other, integers 0 to 900 inclusive, preferably 0 to 500 inclusive, and more preferably 0 to 100 inclusive,

[0245] with the proviso that the sum n+m+q is not 0.

[0246] Examples that may be mentioned include the products sold under the following names: the Silbione® oils of the 70641 series from Rhodia;

[0247] the oils of the Rhodorsil® 70633 and 763 series from Rhodia;

[0248] the oil Dow Coming 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid from Dow Coming;

[0249] the silicones of the PK series from Bayer, such as the product PK20;

[0250] certain oils of the SF series from General Electric, such as SF 1023, SF 1154, SF 1250 and SF 1265.

[0251] As the phenyl silicone oil, phenyl trimethicone (R1 to R10 are methyl; p, q, and n = 0; m=1 in the above formula) is preferable.

[0252] The organomodified liquid silicones may especially contain polyethyleneoxy and / or polypropyleneoxy groups. Mention may thus be made of the silicone KF-6017 proposed by Shin-Etsu, and the oils Silwet® L722 and L77 from the company Union Carbide.

[0253] Hydrocarbon oils may be chosen from:

[0254] linear or branched, optionally cyclic, Ce-Cie or C9-C12 lower alkanes. Examples that may be mentioned include hexane, undecane, dodecane, tridecane, and isoparaffins, for instance isohexadecane, isododecane and isodecane; and

[0255] linear or branched hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, such as liquid paraffins, liquid petroleum jelly, polydecenes and hydrogenated polyisobutenes such as Parleam®, and squalane.

[0256] As preferable examples of hydrocarbon oils, mention may be made of, for example, linear or branched hydrocarbons such as isohexadecane, isododecane, squalane, mineral oil (e.g., liquid paraffin), paraffin, vaseline or petrolatum, naphthalenes, and the like; hydrogenated polyisobutene, isoeicosan, and decene / butene copolymer; and mixtures thereof.

[0257] The term “fatty” in the fatty alcohol means the inclusion of a relatively large number of carbon atoms. Thus, alcohols which have 4 or more, preferably 6 or more, and more preferably 12 or more carbon atoms are encompassed within the scope of fatty alcohols. The fatty alcohol may be saturated or unsaturated. The fatty alcohol may be linear or branched. The fatty alcohol may have the structure R-OH wherein R is chosen from saturated and unsaturated, linear and branched radicals containing from 4 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 12 to 20 carbon atoms. In at least one embodiment, R may be chosen from C12-C20 alkyl and C12-C20 alkenyl groups. R may or may not be substituted with at least one hydroxyl group.

[0258] As examples of the fatty alcohol, mention may be made of lauryl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, undecylenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol, oleyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, palmitoleyl alcohol, arachidonyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.

[0259] It is preferable that the fatty alcohol be a saturated fatty alcohol.

[0260] Thus, the fatty alcohol may be selected from straight or branched, saturated or unsaturated Ce-C30 alcohols, preferably straight or branched, saturated C6-C30 alcohols, and more preferably straight or branched, saturated C12-C20 alcohols.

[0261] The term “saturated fatty alcohol” here means an alcohol having a long aliphatic saturated carbon chain. It is preferable that the saturated fatty alcohol be selected from any linear or branched, saturated C6-C30 fatty alcohols. Among the linear or branched, saturated C6-C30 fatty alcohols, linear or branched, saturated C12-C20 fatty alcohols may preferably be used. Any linear or branched, saturated C16-C20 fatty alcohols may be more preferably used.

[0262] Branched C16-C20 fatty alcohols may be even more preferably used.

[0263] As examples of saturated fatty alcohols, mention may be made of lauryl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, undecylenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol, and mixtures thereof. In one embodiment, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol, or a mixture thereof (e.g., cetearyl alcohol) as well as behenyl alcohol, can be used as a saturated fatty alcohol.

[0264] According to at least one embodiment, the fatty alcohol used in the composition according to the present invention is preferably chosen from octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol and mixtures thereof.

[0265] It may be preferable that the (e) oil be selected from hydrocarbon oils, ester oils, and mixtures thereof.

[0266] The amount of the (e) oil(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 10% by weight or more, preferably 15% by weight or more, and more preferably 20% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0267] The amount of the (e) oil(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 50% by weight or less, preferably 45% by weight or less, and more preferably 40% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0268] The amount of the (e) oil(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 10% to 50% by weight, preferably from 15% to 45% by weight, and more preferably from 20% to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0269] (First Powder)

[0270] The composition according to the present invention comprises (f) at least one first powder comprising (i) at least one inorganic oxide, and (ii) at least one fatty acid or salt thereof. If two or more first powders are used, they may be the same or different.

[0271] It is preferable that the (!) first powder is solid at room temperature (25°C) under atmospheric pressure (101325 Pa). The term “solid” here means a substance which is not flowable under its own weight, contrary to a fluid.

[0272] The (f) first powder may be composed of particles having a diameter ranging from 1 pm to 40 pm, preferably 2 pm to 30 pm, and more preferably 3 pm to 20 pm. The particle size here means a mean (primary) particle size or mean (primary) particle diameter.

[0273] The (primary) particle size can be measured by, for example, extracting and measuring from a photograph image obtained by SEM and the like, using a particle size analyzer such as a laser diffraction particle size analyzer, and the like. It is preferable to use a particle size analyzer such as a laser diffraction particle size analyzer. In this case, the (primary) particle size is the volume-average (primary) particle size. The (f) first powder comprises (i) at least one inorganic oxide.

[0274] As inorganic oxide, mention may be made of non-metal oxide such as silica and metal oxide. It is preferable that the inorganic oxide be metal oxide. It is preferable that the metal oxide be alkaline earth metal oxide, transition metal oxide or a mixture thereof. As examples of the metal oxide, mention may be made of magnesium oxide, titanium dioxide, iron oxide, and a mixture thereof. It is more preferable that the metal oxide be magnesium oxide.

[0275] Thus, it is preferable that the (i) inorganic oxide be metal oxide, more preferably alkaline earth metal oxide, and even more preferably magnesium oxide.

[0276] The (f) first powder comprises (ii) at least one fatty acid or salt thereof.

[0277] The term “fatty acid” here means a carboxylic acid with a long aliphatic carbon chain.

[0278] The fatty acid has at least 4 carbon atoms, preferably at least 6 carbon atoms, and more preferably at least 8 carbon atoms. The fatty acid may comprise up to 26 carbon atoms, preferably up to 24 carbon atoms, and more preferably up to 22 carbon atoms. It is preferable that the fatty acid be selected from C4-C26 fatty acid, more preferably C6-C24 fatty acid, and even more preferably C8-C22 fatty acid.

[0279] The fatty acid may be selected from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched fatty acids. Thus, the fatty acid may be selected from C4-C26, preferably C6-C24, more preferably C8-C2 saturated and unsaturated, linear or branched fatty acids.

[0280] As the unsaturated, linear or branched fatty acids, mono-unsaturated, linear or branched fatty acids or polyunsaturated, linear or branched fatty acids may be used. As the unsaturated moiety of the unsaturated, linear or branched fatty acids, a carbon-carbon double bond or a carbon-carbon triple bond may be mentioned.

[0281] As the saturated fatty acid, mention may be made of, for example, caprylic acid (Cs), pelargonic acid (C9), capric acid (C10), lauric acid (C12), myristic acid (C14), pentadecanoic acid (Ci 5), palmitic acid (Cie), heptadecanoic acid (C17), stearic acid (Cis), isostearic acid (Cis), nonadecanoic acid (C19), arachidic acid (C20), behenic acid (C22), and lignoceric acid (C24).

[0282] As the unsaturated fatty acid, mention may be made of, for example, myristoleic acid (C14), palmitoleic acid (Cie), oleic acid (Cis), linoleic acid (Cis), linolenic acid (Cis), elaidic acid (Cis), arachidonic acid (C20), eicosenoic acid (C20), erucic acid (C22), and nervonic acid (C24). It is preferable that the fatty acid be selected from C8-C 0 saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched fatty acids, and more preferably Cs-Ci6 saturated, linear or branched fatty acids, and even more preferably C10-C14 saturated, linear fatty acids, in particular lauric acid.

[0283] The fatty acid may be in the form of a free acid or in the form of salt thereof. As salt of the fatty acid, mention may be made of an inorganic salt, preferably a metal salt, such as an alkali metal salt (e.g., a lithium salt, sodium salt, a potassium salt, or the like), an alkaline earth metal salt (e.g., a magnesium salt, a calcium salt, or the like), and another metal salt (e.g., an aluminum salt, a zinc salt and a barium salt); and an organic salt such as an ammonium salt (a quaternary ammonium salt or the like) and an amine salt (a triethanolamine salt, a triethylamine salt, or the like). A single type of fatty acid salt or a combination of different type of fatty acid salts may be used. Further, a combination of one or more fatty acid in the form of a free acid and one or more fatty acid in the form of salt may be used, in which one or more type of salts may also be used.

[0284] It is preferable that salt of fatty acid is selected from inorganic salts of fatty acids, more preferably metal salts of fatty acids, and more preferably zinc salts of fatty acids.

[0285] Thus, (f) first powder comprises:

[0286] (i) at least one inorganic oxide, preferably metal oxide, and more preferably alkaline earth metal oxide; and

[0287] (ii) at least one fatty acid or salt thereof, preferably saturated fatty acid or salt thereof, and more preferably metal salt of saturated fatty acid.

[0288] The amount of the (i) inorganic oxide in the (f) first powder is not limited, and may be from 5% to 75% by weight, relative to the total weight of the (f) first powder.

[0289] The amount of the (ii) fatty acid or salt thereof in the (f) first powder is not limited, and may be from 95% to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the (f) first powder.

[0290] In the (f) first powder, the (i) inorganic oxide and the (ii) fatty acid or salt thereof may be composited. For example, the (f) first powder may be made of a simple mixture of the (i) inorganic oxide and the (ii) fatty acid or salt thereof, or may be in the form of a core-shell particle in which a core particle comprising the (i) inorganic oxide is coated with at least one coating layer comprising the (ii) fatty acid or salt thereof, or vice versa.

[0291] In one embodiment, the (f) first powder comprises at least one metal oxide and at least one saturated fatty acid or salt thereof, preferably at least one alkaline earth metal oxide and at least one metal salt of saturated fatty acid, and more preferably magnesium oxide and zinc laurate.

[0292] It is preferable to use, as the (f) first powder, for example, zinc laurate (and) magnesium oxide, which is marketed by Tomoegawa Corp.

[0293] The amount of the (f) first powder(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0294] The amount of the (f) first powder(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 15% by weight or less, preferably 10% by weight or less, and more preferably 5% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0295] The amount of the (f) first powder(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0296] (Second Powder)

[0297] The composition according to the present invention may comprise (g) at least one second powder selected from: (i) particles comprising silica and hydroxyapatite. If two or more second powders are used, they may be the same or different.

[0298] It is preferable that the (g) second powder is solid at room temperature (25°C) under atmospheric pressure (101325 Pa). The term “solid” here means a substance which is not flowable under its own weight, contrary to a fluid.

[0299] The (g) second powder may be composed of particles having a diameter ranging from 1 pm to 30 pm, preferably 2 pm to 20 pm, and more preferably 3 pm to 10 pm. The particle size here means a mean (primary) particle size or mean (primary) particle diameter.

[0300] The (primary) particle size can be measured by, for example, extracting and measuring from a photograph image obtained by SEM and the like, using a particle size analyzer such as a laser diffraction particle size analyzer, and the like. It is preferable to use a particle size analyzer such as a laser diffraction particle size analyzer. In this case, the (primary) particle size is the volume-average (primary) particle size.

[0301] The (g) second powder is selected from particles comprising silica and hydroxyapatite.

[0302] The (g) second powder may be selected from hydroxyapatite-supported porous silica particles in which hydroxyapatite is supported on the surface of spherical porous silica particles and the inner surfaces of pores of the spherical porous silica particle.

[0303] The term “surface” of a spherical porous silica particle means a portion that defines the external shape of the spherical porous silica particle, that is, its outer surface. The term “inner surfaces of pores” of a spherical porous silica particle means portions that define pores of the spherical porous silica particle. The term “support” means a state that hydroxyapatite is adhered to or combined with the surface of the spherical porous silica particle and the inner surfaces of pores of the spherical porous silica particle.

[0304] From the viewpoint of, for example, improving tactile sense, the circularity of the hydroxyapatite-supported porous silica particle may be 0.760 or higher, preferably 0.800 or higher, more preferably 0.820 or higher, even more preferably 0.850 or higher, and particularly preferably 0.900 or higher. Although there are no particular limitations on the upper limit, the circularity being equal to 1 is most preferable.

[0305] The term “circularity” represents the degree of unevenness of the surface of the hydroxyapatite-supporting porous silica particle, and it can be judged that the degree of unevenness of the particle surface is lower, that is, the particle is closer to a true sphere, as the circularity comes closer to 1.

[0306] The circularity can be calculated by examining an area and a perimeter of a particle with an image taken by a particle image analyzing instrument (e.g., “FPIA-3000S” (product name) produced by Sysmex Corporation) using image analysis software that is an attachment to the instrument and substituting them into the following equation:

[0307] Circularity = (perimeter of a circle having the same projected area) / (perimeter of the particle) where

[0308] perimeter of a circle having the same projected area: the length of the outline of a circle that is calculated as having the same area as an area of a shadow of a certain particle formed on a plane under it determined when the particle is observed from right above; and

[0309] perimeter of the particle: a length of the outline of the shadow of the particle formed on the plane under it when the particle is observed from right above.

[0310] Since the shape of the hydroxyapatite-supported porous silica particle is a true sphere or close to a true sphere and hydroxyapatite is supported on the particle surface, improvements may be made in smoothness or smooth feel when it is applied to a keratin material such as skin. Further, the hydroxyapatite-supported porous silica particle may have a higher refractive index than silica itself has. Furthermore, since hydroxyapatite is supported also on the inner surfaces of pores, the adsorption of free fatty acid such as oleic acid may be increased. Thus, in the case where the hydroxyapatite-supported porous silica particle is contained in the composition according to the present invention, the particle may contribute to sebum control by the composition. In addition, by having silica as a base material, the hydroxyapatite- supported porous silica particle is environmentally friendly.

[0311] The amount of supported hydroxyapatite in the hydroxyapatite-supported porous silica particle may be 0.1% by weight or more, preferably 0.5% by weight or more, and more preferably 1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the particle.

[0312] The amount of supported hydroxyapatite in the hydroxyapatite-supported porous silica particle may be 50% by weight or less, preferably 40% by weight or less, and more preferably 30% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the particle.

[0313] The amount of supported hydroxyapatite in the hydroxyapatite-supported porous silica particle may be from 0.1% to 50% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 40% by weight, and more preferably from 1% to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the particle.

[0314] The amount of supported hydroxyapatite can be measured by high-frequency inductively coupled plasma atomic emission spectroscopy (ICP-AES) using an ICP emission analyzing instrument (e.g., “ICPE-9000” (product name) produced by Shimadzu Corporation).

[0315] In the hydroxyapatite-supporting porous silica particle, hydroxyapatite is supported on the surface of the spherical porous silica particle and the inner surfaces of pores of the spherical porous silica particle. That is, hydroxyapatite is distributed on the surface and inside of the spherical porous silica particle. It is preferable that hydroxyapatite be distributed approximately uniformly on the surface of the particle and the inner surfaces of pores of the particle. It is noted that the expression “distributed approximately uniformly” means hydroxyapatite is distributed on the surface of the spherical silica particle and the inner surfaces of pores of the spherical porous silica particle almost uniformly without being localized in partial portions.

[0316] The fact that hydroxyapatite is supported on the surface of the spherical porous silica particle can be confirmed from a surface SEM image taken by a SEM (Scanning Electron Microscope).

[0317] In addition, the fact that hydroxyapatite is supported on the inner surfaces of pores of the spherical porous silica particle can be confirmed from a cross-sectional SEM image taken using a SEM and a cross-sectional EDX image (SEM-EDX) taken using EDX (Energy Dispersive X-ray Spectroscopy). The oil absorption value of the hydroxyapatite-supported porous silica particles may be 20 mL / 100 g or more, preferably 50 mL / 100 g or more, more preferably 100 mL / 100 g or more, and even more preferably 150 mL / 100 g or more.

[0318] On the other hand, the oil absorption value of the hydroxyapatite-supported porous silica particles may be 500 mL / 100 g or less, preferably 450 mL / 100 g or less, more preferably 400 mL / 100 g or less, and even more preferably 350 mL / 100 g or less.

[0319] Thus, the oil absorption value of the hydroxyapatite-supported porous silica particle may be from 20 mL / 100 g to 500 mL / 100 g, preferably from 50 mL / 100 g to 450 mL / 100 g, more preferably from 100 mL / 100 g to 400 mL / 100 g, and even more preferably from 150 mL / 100 g to 350 mL / 100 g.

[0320] The oil absorption value can be measured according to JIS K 5101-13-1 (2004).

[0321] The hydroxyapatite-supported porous silica particles may be prepared by producing hydroxyapatite by bringing a calcium source and a phosphorus source into contact with spherical porous silica particles each having a circularity of 0.560 or higher.

[0322] As the spherical porous silica particles, for example, those commercially found on the market can be used. The examples of them include “Sunsphere H-52” (product name, circularity: 0.958, average particle diameter: 5.0 pm, specific surface area: 652 m2 / g, pore volume: 1.59 mL / g, average pore diameter: 9.8 nm, oil absorption value: 324 mL / 100 g) produced by AGC Si-Tech Co., Ltd.

[0323] The above method allows the hydroxyapatite to be supported on the surface of the spherical porous silica particle and the inner surfaces of pores of the spherical porous silica particle in such a manner as to cause almost no change in the shape of the spherical porous silica particle which is a base material.

[0324] The specific process for preparing the hydroxyapatite-supported porous silica particles are known, as described in, for example, WO 2021 / 210472, which is herein incorporated by reference.

[0325] It is preferable to use, as the (g) second powder, for example, silica (and) hydroxyapatite, which is marketed by AGC Si-Tech Co., Ltd.

[0326] The amount of the (g) second powder(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0327] The amount of the (g) second powder(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 15% by weight or less, preferably 10% by weight or less, and more preferably 5% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0328] The amount of the (g) second powder(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. (Third Powder)

[0329] The composition according to the present invention may comprise (h) at least one third powder selected from particles comprising silica, titanium dioxide, and magnesium oxide or magnesium hydroxide. If two or more third powders are used, they may be the same or different.

[0330] It is preferable that the (h) third powder is solid at room temperature (25°C) under atmospheric pressure (101325 Pa). The term “solid” here means a substance which is not flowable under its own weight, contrary to a fluid.

[0331] The (h) third powder may be composed of particles having a diameter ranging from 1 pm to 30 pm, preferably 2 pm to 20 pm, and more preferably 3 pm to 10 pm. The particle size here means a mean (primary) particle size or mean (primary) particle diameter.

[0332] The (primary) particle size can be measured by, for example, extracting and measuring from a photograph image obtained by SEM and the like, using a particle size analyzer such as a laser diffraction particle size analyzer, and the like. It is preferable to use a particle size analyzer such as a laser diffraction particle size analyzer. In this case, the (primary) particle size is the volume-average (primary) particle size.

[0333] The (h) third powder is selected from particles comprising silica, titanium dioxide, and magnesium oxide or magnesium hydroxide.

[0334] In the (h) third powder, silica, titanium dioxide, and magnesium oxide or magnesium hydroxide may be composited. For example, the (h) third powder may be made of a simple mixture of silica, titanium dioxide, and magnesium oxide or magnesium hydroxide, or may be in the form of a core-shell particle in which a core particle comprising any of these ingredients is coated with at least one coating layer comprising any of the other ingredients. It is preferable that the (h) third powder be selected from composite particles in which core particles is coated with at least one coating layer.

[0335] The core particle may comprise silica. The core particle may comprise, for example, only silica, silica-alumina, silica-zirconia, silica-titania and the like.

[0336] It is preferable that the core particle consists of silica. As silica, amorphous silica is particularly preferable.

[0337] It is preferable that the core particle be spherical such that it has the sphericity of from 0.85 to 1.00. The sphericity here means an average value determined by selecting 50 particles from photographic projections obtained by photographing with a transmission electron microscope, measuring the maximum diameter (DL) and the short diameter (DS) orthogonal to the maximum diameter (DL), calculating the ratio of DS / DL, and averaging the ratio.

[0338] The refractive index of the core particle may be from 1.3 to 1.8.

[0339] It is preferable that the coating layer comprises titanium dioxide, magnesium oxide or magnesium hydroxide, or a mixture thereof. The titanium dioxide may be amorphous or crystalline in the rutile and / or anatase form. The titanium dioxide is preferably in the form of a particle. The titanium dioxide particle may or may not have a coating.

[0340] The titanium dioxide particle may have a mean (primary) particle diameter thereof ranges from 1 nm to 80 nm, preferably 5 nm to 60 nm, and more preferably 15 nm to 50 nm. The mean (primary) particle size or mean (primary) particle diameter here is a volume average diameter.

[0341] The titanium dioxide particle may function as a UV filter. Thus, the composite particle may have UV shielding effects.

[0342] The magnesium oxide or magnesium hydroxide may function as absorbing agent. Thus, in the case where it is contained in the composition according to the present invention, the composite particle may contribute to sebum control by the composition. Furthermore, having magnesium oxide or magnesium hydroxide as a base material, the composite particle is environmentally-friendly.

[0343] The oil absorption value of the composite particles may be 15 mL / 100 g or more, preferably 20 mL / 100 g or more, more preferably 25 mL / 100 g or more, and even more preferably 30 mL / 100 g or more.

[0344] On the other hand, the oil absorption value of the composite particles may be 250 mL / 100 g or less, preferably 200 mL / 100 g or less, more preferably 150 mL / 100 g or less, and even more preferably 100 mL / 100 g or less.

[0345] Thus, the oil absorption value of the composite particle may be from 15 mL / 100 g to 250 mL / 100 g, preferably from 20 mL / 100 g to 200 mL / 100 g, more preferably from 25 mL / 100 g to 150 mL / 100 g, and even more preferably from 30 mL / 100 g to 100 mL / 100 g.

[0346] The oil absorption value can be measured according to JIS K 5101-13-1 (2004).

[0347] It is preferable that the composite particle has at least two coating layers, in which a first coating layer comprises titanium dioxide, magnesium oxide or magnesium hydroxide or a mixture thereof, and a second coating layer comprises silica. It is more preferable that the first coating layer and the second coating layer exist alternately on the core particle. It is even more preferable that the second coating layer forms the outermost surface of the composite particle.

[0348] It may be preferable that the composite particle has at least three coating layers, in which a first coating layer comprises titanium dioxide, a second coating layer comprises magnesium oxide or magnesium hydroxide, and a third coating layer comprises silica. It may be more preferable that the first coating layer, the second coating layer, and the third coating layer exist alternately on the core particle. For example, in one embodiment, on the core particle, the first coating layer, the second coating layer and the third coating layer may exist on this order. In another embodiment, on the core particle, the second coating layer, the first coating layer, and the third coating layer may exist on this order. It is even more preferable that the third coating layer forms the outermost surface of the composite particle.

[0349] The mass ratio of the mass of silica: the mass of titanium dioxide and magnesium oxide or magnesium hydroxide, constituting the composite particle may be from 50 to 90: from 10 to 50, preferably from 55 to 75: from 25 to 45, and more preferably from 60 to 80: from 20 to 40.

[0350] The composite particles may be prepared by, for example, forming at least one coating layer on a core particle by contacting the core particle with a solution or dispersion of the ingredients for the coating layer. For example, if the coating layer should comprise titanium dioxide, the core particle can be contacted with a solution or dispersion of at least one water- soluble or water-dispersible titanium compound (titanium dioxide precursor) such as titanium alkoxides represented by the chemical formula: Ti(OR)4 wherein R denotes a hydrocarbon group. Examples of the titanium compound include tetraisopropyl titanate, tetrabutyltitanate, tetra(2-ethylhexyl)titanate and the like. By contacting the core particle with the solution or dispersion, titanium dioxide is formed on the core particle to form a coating layer.

[0351] The specific process for preparing the hydroxyapatite-supported porous silica particles are known, as described in, for example, JP-A-2018-172232, which is herein incorporated by reference.

[0352] It is preferable to use, as the (h) third powder, for example, particles comprising silica, titanium oxide, and magnesium oxide, such as silica (and) titanium dioxide (and) magnesium oxide, which is marketed by JGC C& C.

[0353] The amount of the (h) third powder(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0354] The amount of the (h) third powder(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 15% by weight or less, preferably 10% by weight or less, and more preferably 5% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0355] The amount of the (h) third powder(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0356] (pH)

[0357] The pH of the aqueous phase of the composition according to the present invention may be from 3 to 9, preferably from 4 to 8.5, and more preferably from 5 to 8.

[0358] At a pH of from 3 to 9, the (a) cationic polymer or a complex of the (a) cationic polymer and the (b) non-polymeric acid having two or more pKa values or salt thereof can be very stable. The pH of the composition according to the present invention may be adjusted by adding at least one alkaline agent and / or at least one acid, other than the (b) non-polymeric acid having two or more pKa values or salt thereof. The pH of the composition according to the present invention may also be adjusted by adding at least one buffering agent.

[0359] (Alkaline Agent)

[0360] The composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one alkaline agent. Two or more alkaline agents may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of alkaline agent or a combination of different types of alkaline agents may be used.

[0361] The alkaline agent may be an inorganic alkaline agent. It is preferable that the inorganic alkaline agent be selected from the group consisting of ammonia; alkaline metal hydroxides; alkaline earth metal hydroxides; alkaline metal phosphates and monohydrogenophosphates such as sodium phosphate or sodium monohydrogen phosphate.

[0362] As examples of the inorganic alkaline metal hydroxides, mention may be made of sodium hydroxide and potassium hydroxide. As examples of the alkaline earth metal hydroxides, mention may be made of calcium hydroxide and magnesium hydroxide. As an inorganic alkaline agent, sodium hydroxide is preferable.

[0363] The alkaline agent may be an organic alkaline agent. It is preferable that the organic alkaline agent be selected from the group consisting of monoamines and derivatives thereof; diamines and derivatives thereof; polyamines and derivatives thereof; basic amino acids and derivatives thereof; oligomers of basic amino acids and derivatives thereof; polymers of basic amino acids and derivatives thereof; urea and derivatives thereof; and guanidine and derivatives thereof.

[0364] As examples of the organic alkaline agents, mention may be made of alkanolamines such as mono-, di- and tri-ethanolamine, and isopropanolamine; urea, guanidine and their derivatives; basic amino acids such as ornithine; and diamines such as those described in the structure below:

[0365] R1 R3

[0366] \ /

[0367] N-R-N

[0368] /

[0369]

[0370] \

[0371] R2 R4

[0372] wherein R denotes an alkylene such as propylene optionally substituted by a hydroxyl or a Ci-C4 alkyl radical, and Ri, R2, R3 and R4 independently denote a hydrogen atom, an alkyl radical or a C1-C4 hydroxyalkyl radical, which may be exemplified by 1,3 -propanediamine and derivatives thereof.

[0373] The alkaline agent(s) may be used in a total amount of from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.02% to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.03% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, depending on their solubility.

[0374] (Acid)

[0375] The composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one acid. Two or more acids may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of acid or a combination of different types of acids may be used.

[0376] As the acid, mention may be made of any inorganic or organic acids, preferably inorganic acids, which are commonly used in cosmetic products. A monovalent acid and / or a polyvalent acid may be used. A monovalent acid such as citric acid, lactic acid, sulfuric acid, phosphoric acid and hydrochloric acid (HC1) may be used. Lactic acid may be preferable. The acid(s) may be used in a total amount of from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.02% to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.03% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, depending on their solubility.

[0377] (Optional Ingredient)

[0378] The composition according to the present invention may comprise, in addition to the aforementioned ingredients, optional ingredient(s) typically employed in cosmetics, specifically, organic or inorganic UV filters; fatty acids: surfactants / emulsifiers such as polyglyceryl fatty acid esters; fillers such as cellulose acetate; hydrophilic or lipophilic thickeners, derived from, for example, synthetic polymers other than the (a) cationic polymer; volatile or non-volatile organic solvents, such as ethanol; amphoteric polymers; nonionic polymers; silicones other than the (e) oil; natural extracts derived from animals or vegetables other than the (a) cationic polymer or the (e) oil; waxes; and the like, within a range which does not impair the effects of the present invention.

[0379] The composition according to the present invention may comprise the above optional additive(s) in an amount of from 0.01% to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 20% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0380] The composition according to the present invention may include a very limited amount of silicone(s) in view of environmental friendliness.

[0381] The amount of the silicone(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 1% by weight or less, preferably 0.1% by weight or less, and more preferably 0.01% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition. It is in particular preferable that the composition according to the present invention includes no silicone.

[0382] (Embodiments)

[0383] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the present invention comprises:

[0384] a plurality of aqueous phases comprising, relative to the total weight of the composition: from 0.01% to 15% by weight of (a) at least one cationic polymer;

[0385] from 0.001% to 10% by weight of (b) at least one non-polymeric acid having two or more pKa values or salt thereof;

[0386] from 0.01% to 15% by weight of (c) at least one anionic polymer; and

[0387] from 10% to 50% by weight of (d) water,

[0388] and

[0389] a fatty phase comprising relative to the total weight of the composition:

[0390] from 10% to 50% by weight of (e) at least one oil,

[0391] wherein

[0392] the aqueous phases are dispersed in the fatty phase, and

[0393] the composition further comprises (f) at least one first powder comprising (i) at least one inorganic oxide, and (ii) at least one fatty acid or salt thereof.

[0394] According to a more preferred embodiment, the composition according to the present invention comprises:

[0395] a plurality of aqueous phases comprising, relative to the total weight of the composition: from 0.05% to 10% by weight of (a’) at least one cationic polymer selected from polylysines, chitosans, and mixtures thereof; from 0.003% to 5% by weight of (b’) at least one non-polymeric acid having two or more pKa values or salt thereof, selected from organic acids and salts thereof;

[0396] from 0.05% to 10% by weight of (c’) at least one anionic polymer selected from polysaccharides; and

[0397] from 15% to 45% by weight of (d) water,

[0398] and

[0399] a fatty phase comprising relative to the total weight of the composition:

[0400] from 15% to 45% by weight of (e’) at least one oil selected from hydrocarbon oils, ester oils, and mixtures thereof,

[0401] wherein

[0402] the aqueous phases are dispersed in the fatty phase, and

[0403] the composition further comprises (f) at least one first powder comprising (i’) at least one metal oxide, and (ii’) at least one saturated fatty acid or salt thereof.

[0404] According to an even more preferred embodiment, the composition according to the present invention comprises:

[0405] a plurality of aqueous phases comprising, relative to the total weight of the composition: from 0.1% to 5% by weight of (a”) at least one cationic polymer selected from polylysines; from 0.005% to 1% by weight of (b”) at least one non-polymeric acid having two or more pKa values or salt thereof, selected from phytic acid and salts thereof;

[0406] from 0.1% to 5% by weight of (c”) at least one anionic polymer selected from hyaluronic acid, cellulose polymers, and salts thereof; and

[0407] from 20% to 40% by weight of (d) water,

[0408] and

[0409] a fatty phase comprising relative to the total weight of the composition:

[0410] from 20% to 40% by weight of (e”) at least one oil selected from the group consisting of C9- 12 alkane, dipentaerythrityl tetrahydroxystearate / tetraisostearate, dicaprylyl carbonate, diisopropyl sebacate, isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate, and a mixture thereof,

[0411] wherein

[0412] the aqueous phases are dispersed in the fatty phase, and

[0413] the composition further comprises (f) at least one first powder comprising (i”) at least one alkaline earth metal oxide, and (ii”) at least one metal salt of saturated fatty acid.

[0414] (Preparation)

[0415] The composition according to the present invention can be prepared by mixing the essential ingredient(s) as explained above, and optional ingredient(s), if necessary, as explained above. The method and means to mix the above essential and optional ingredients are not limited. Any conventional method and means can be used to mix the above essential and optional ingredients to prepare the composition according to the present invention.

[0416] The composition according to the present invention can be prepared by simple or easy mixing with a conventional mixing means such as a stirrer and a homogenizer. Also, heating may not be necessary. Therefore, the process for preparing the composition according to the present invention may be environmentally friendly.

[0417] (Cosmetic Application)

[0418] The composition according to the present invention may be intended to be used as a cosmetic composition. Thus, the cosmetic composition according to the present invention may be intended for application onto a keratin material. Keratin material here means a material containing keratin as a main constituent element, and examples thereof include the skin, scalp, nails, lips, hair, and the like. Thus, it is preferable that the cosmetic composition according to the present invention be used for a cosmetic process for the keratin material, in particular skin.

[0419] Thus, the cosmetic composition according to the present invention may be a care or makeup composition, preferably a makeup composition, and more preferably a skin makeup composition.

[0420] (Form)

[0421] The composition according to the present invention can be of the W / O type, such as a W / O type emulsion.

[0422] The composition according to the present invention comprises a plurality of aqueous phases and a fatty phase, wherein the aqueous phases are dispersed in the fatty phase. Thus, the aqueous phase can function as a dispersed phase or a discontinuous phase, and the fatty phase can function as a continuous phase.

[0423] The aqueous phase comprises the (a) cationic polymer(s), the (b) non-polymeric acid(s) having two or more pKa values or salt(s) thereof, the (c) anionic polymer(s), and the (d) water.

[0424] The fatty phase comprises the (e) oil. If the composition according to the present invention comprises fatty acid, as an independent ingredient, the fatty phase can comprise the fatty acid. The amount of the aqueous phases in the composition according to the present invention may be from 30% to 70% by weight, preferably from 35% to 65% by weight, and more preferably from 40% to 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0425] The amount of the fatty phase in the composition according to the present invention may be from 30% to 70% by weight, preferably from 35% to 65% by weight, and more preferably from 40% to 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition

[0426] [Cosmetic Process and Use]

[0427] The present invention also relates to:

[0428] a cosmetic process for a keratin material such as skin, comprising: applying to the keratin material the composition according to the present invention; or

[0429] a use of the composition according to the present invention for the preparation of a cosmetic film on a keratin material such as skin.

[0430] The cosmetic process here means a non-therapeutic cosmetic method for caring for and / or making up the surface of a keratin material such as skin.

[0431] In the above use, the above cosmetic film may be resistant to water with a pH of 7 or less, and is removable with water with a pH of more than 7, preferably 8 or more, and more preferably 9 or more. In other words, the above cosmetic film may be water-resistant under neutral or acidic conditions such as a pH of 7 or less, preferably in a range of 6 or more and 7 or less, and more preferably in a range of 5 or more and 7 or less, while the above cosmetic film may be removed under alkaline conditions such as a pH of more than 7, preferably 8 or more, and more preferably 9 or more. The upper limit of the pH is preferably 13, more preferably 12, and even more preferably 11.

[0432] Accordingly, the above cosmetic film may be water-resistant, and therefore, it may remain on a keratin material such as skin even if the surface of the keratin material is wet due to, for example, sweat and rain. On the other hand, the above cosmetic film may be easily removed from a keratin material such as skin under alkaline conditions. Therefore, the film according to the present invention is difficult to remove with water, while it may be easily removed with a soap which can provide alkaline conditions.

[0433] If the above cosmetic film includes at least one UV filter which may be present in the composition according to the present invention, the above cosmetic film can protect a keratin material such as skin from UV rays, thereby limiting the darkening of the skin, improving the color and uniformity of the complexion, and / or treating aging of the skin.

[0434] Furthermore, the above cosmetic film may have cosmetic effects such as capturing sebum, matting the appearance of a keratin substrate such as skin, absorbing or adsorbing malodour, and / or protecting the keratin material from, for example, dirt or pollutant, even if the cosmetic film does not include any cosmetic active ingredient.

[0435] In addition, the above cosmetic film may immediately change or modify the appearance of the skin by changing light reflection on the skin and the like, even if the cosmetic film does not include any cosmetic active ingredient. Therefore, it may be possible for the above cosmetic film to conceal skin defects such as pores or wrinkles. Further, the above cosmetic film may immediately change or modify the feel to the touch of the skin by changing the surface roughness on the skin and the like. Furthermore, the above cosmetic film may immediately protect the skin by covering the surface of the skin and shielding the skin, as a barrier, from environmental stresses such as pollutants, contaminants and the like.

[0436] The above cosmetic effects can be adjusted or controlled by changing the chemical composition, the thickness and / or the surface roughness of the above cosmetic film.

[0437] If the above cosmetic film includes at least one additional cosmetic active ingredient other than the (e) oil, the cosmetic film can have cosmetic effects provided by the additional cosmetic active ingredients). For example, if the cosmetic film includes at least one cosmetic active ingredient selected from anti-aging agents, deodorant agents, anti-perspirant agents, whitening agents and a mixture thereof, the cosmetic film can treat the aging of the skin, controlling odors on the skin, controlling perspiration on the skin, and / or whitening of the skin.

[0438] It is also possible to apply a makeup cosmetic composition onto the cosmetic film after it has been formed on a keratin material such as skin by the cosmetic process or use according to the present invention.

[0439] The present invention may also relate to a use of; (a) at least one cationic polymer;

[0440] (b) at least one non-polymeric acid having two or more pKa values or salt thereof;

[0441] (c) at least one anionic polymer,

[0442] (f) at least one first powder comprising (i) at least one inorganic oxide, preferably metal oxide, and more preferably alkaline earth metal oxide, and (ii) at least one fatty acid or salt thereof, preferably saturated fatty acid or salt thereof, and more preferably metal salt of saturated fatty acid,

[0443] in a composition, comprising:

[0444] a plurality of aqueous phases comprising:

[0445] (d) water,

[0446] and

[0447] a fatty phase comprising:

[0448] (e) at least one oil,

[0449] wherein

[0450] the aqueous phases aqueous phases are dispersed in the fatty phase,

[0451] in order to make the composition stable and provide a keratin material such as skin with, at least, an acceptable level of sebum control, good spreadability and comfortable feeling to use. The composition may also include (g) at least one second powder and / or (h) at least one third powder, as explained above.

[0452] The above explanations regarding the (a) cationic polymer, the (b) non-polymeric acid having two or more pKa values or salt thereof, the (c) anionic polymer, the (d) water, the (e) oil, and the (f) first powder, as well as optional ingredients such as the (g) second powder and the (h) third powder, can apply to those in the above use.

[0453] EXAMPLES

[0454] The present invention will be described in a more detailed manner by way of examples.

[0455] However, they should not be construed as limiting the scope of the present invention.

[0456] Examples 1-3 and Comparative Examples 1-4

[0457] [Preparations]

[0458] Each of the compositions according to Examples 1-3 and Comparative Examples 1-4 was prepared by mixing the ingredients shown in Table 1. The numerical values for the amounts of the ingredients in Table 1 are all based on “% by weight” as active ingredients. Table 1

[0459] Comp. Comp. Comp. Ex. 1 Ex. 2 Ex. 3

[0460] Ex. 1 Ex. 2 Ex. 3 Ex. 4 Zinc Laurate (and) Magnesium Oxide 2.00 1.00 1.50 2.00 2.00 2.00 Silica (and) Hydroxyapatite 2.00 2.00 3.00 2.00 2.00 2.00 2.00 Silica (and) Titanium Dioxide (and) Magnesium Oxide 2.00 1.00 1.50 2.00 2.00 2.00 2.00 Cellulose Acetate 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 Water 30 30 30 30 30 30 30 Sodium Hyaluronate 0.06 0.06 0.06 0.06 - 0.06 0.06 Cellulose Gum 0.19 0.19 0.19 0.19 0.19 0.19 Polylysine 0.125 0.125 0.125 0.125 0.125 0.125 qs qs qs qs qs qs Sodium Hydroxide

[0461] pH 7.2 pH 7.2 pH 7.2 pH 7.2 pH 7.2 pH 7.2 Phytic Acid 0.14 0.14 0.14 0.14 0.14 0.14

[0462] Oleic Acid 0.03 0.03 0.03 0.03 0.03 0.03 0.03 Butylene Glycol 5.00 5.00 5.00 5.00 5.00 5.00 5.00 Glycerin 5.00 5.00 5.00 5.00 5.00 5.00 5.00 Pentylene Glycol 1.00 LOO LOO LOO 1.00 LOO LOO Ethanol 5.00 5.00 5.00 5.00 5.00 5.00 5.00 PEG-30 Dipolyhydroxystearate 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 Polyglyceryl-6 Polyricinoleate 1.00 1.00 2.25 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 Polyglyceryl-2 Isostearate - - 0.75 - - - Polyglyceryl-4 Diisostearate / Polyhydroxystearate / Sebacate - 1.50 - - - Disteardimonium Hectorite 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00

[0463]

[0464] Trimethylsil oxysilicate 3.00 3.00 4.00 3.00 3.00 3.00 3.00

[0465] (continued) (continued) C9-12 Alkane qsp 100 qsp 100 qsp 100 qsp 100 qsp 100 qsp 100 qsp 100 Dipentaerythrityl Tetrahydroxystearate / Tetraisostearate 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 Dicaprylyl Carbonate 9.50 9.50 9.50 9.50 9.50 9.50 9.50 Diisopropyl Sebacate 6.00 6.00 6.00 6.00 6.00 6.00 6.00 Isopropyl Lauroyl Sarcosinate 5.00 5.00 5.00 5.00 5.00 5.00 5.00 Titanium Dioxide (and) Stearic Acid 5.00 5.00 5.00 5.00 5.00 5.00 5.00 Ethylhexyl Triazone 2.85 2.85 2.85 2.85 2.85 2.85 2.85 Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine 2.50 2.50 2.50 2.50 2.50 2.50 2.50 Titanium Dioxide (and) Aluminum Hydroxide (and) Sodium 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 Lauroyl Glutamate (and) Lysine (and) Magnesium Chloride

[0466] Iron Oxides 0.05 0.05 0.05 0.05 0.05 0.05 0.05 Phenoxyethanol 0.50 0.50 0.50 0.50 0.50 0.50 0.50 Tocopherol 0.10 0.10 0.10 0.10 0.10 0.10 0.10 Sebum Control Fair Fair Fair Poor Good Fair Poor Centrifugation (Stability) Good Good Fair Poor Good Good Good Microscopic Evaluation (Stability) Good Fair Good Fair Poor Fair Good Spreadability Good Good Good Poor Fair Poor Good

[0467]

[0468] Texture Good Good Good Fair Good Poor Good * The value of pH was measured in the aqueous phase during the preparation of the composition.

[0469] [Evaluations]

[0470] (Sebum Control)

[0471] First, a collagen sheet (Collagen foil 570 mm, BizScience Co., Ltd.) was cut to prepare a collagen sheet in the form of a square with a size of 7 cm* 7 cm, and then holes were formed in 5 cm* 5 cm area by using a microneedle.

[0472] Second, a test sample was prepared by applying 14 μL each of the compositions according to Examples 1-3 and Comparative Examples 1-4 onto the 5 cm* 5 cm area of the above collagen sheet with holes, and then, applying 60 mg of an artificial sebum including the ingredients shown in Table 2 below on the other side of the 5 cm* 5 cm area.

[0473] Table 2

[0474] (wt%)

[0475] Oleic acid 20.0

[0476] Poly(oxy-1,2-ethanediyl) 1.0

[0477] Water 79.0

[0478]

[0479] Total 100.0

[0480] On the other hand, a blank sample was also prepared by applying only 14 μL each of the compositions according to Examples 1-3 and Comparative Examples 1-4 onto the 5 cm* 5 cm area of the above collagen sheet with holes.

[0481] Third, the above test sample and blank sample were incubated at 25°C for 3 hours.

[0482] Then, the shine value of the surface of the test sample, onto which each of the compositions according to Examples 1-3 and Comparative Examples 1-4 had been applied, was measured by using a gloss meter (Konica Minolta, Multi Gloss 268A).

[0483] The difference in the shine values between the blank sample (composition only) and the test sample (composition and artificial sebum) was determined. The unit of this difference was noted as delta gloss unit (ΔGU), and this difference was evaluated in accordance with the following criteria:

[0484] Good: 0 < AGU < 10

[0485] Fair: 10 < AGU < 20

[0486] Poor: 20 < AGU

[0487] The results are shown in Table 1.

[0488] (Centrifugation)

[0489] First, 1 g each of the compositions according to Examples 1-3 and Comparative Examples 1-4 was filled into a cuboid cell with a rectangular bottom surface with a width of 2 mm (LUMiSizer® cell type 3, LUM GmbH). Second, the cell was subjected to centrifugation with a centrifugal machine (LUMiSizer® analytical centrifuge, LUM GmbH) under the following conditions:

[0490] 25 °C, 60 min, 4000 rpm; and

[0491] 45°C, 60 min, 3000 rpm.

[0492] Then, the aspect of each composition was analyzed and evaluated in accordance with the following criteria.

[0493] Good: No separation

[0494] Fair: slight separation (the thickness of separated phase is less than 2 mm)

[0495] Poor: separation (the thickness of separated phase is 2 mm or more)

[0496] The results are shown in Table 1. The results shown in Table 1 reflect the stability of each of the compositions according to Examples 1-3 and Comparative Examples 1-4.

[0497] (Microscopic Evaluation)

[0498] First, 1 μL each of the compositions according to Examples 1-3 and Comparative Examples 1-4 was subjected to microscopic evaluation with 100 times magnification.

[0499] Then, the microscopic image of each composition was analyzed and evaluated in accordance with the following criteria.

[0500] Good: Tight emulsion (homogeneous appearance)

[0501] Fair: Loose emulsion (slightly uneven appearance)

[0502] Poor: Poor emulsion (uneven appearance)

[0503] The results are shown in Table 1. The results shown in Table 1 reflect the stability of each of the compositions according to Examples 1-3 and Comparative Examples 1-4.

[0504] (Spreadability)

[0505] 20 μL each of the compositions according to Examples 1-3 and Comparative Examples 1-4 was applied onto the surface with an area of 4 cm*4 cm of forearm of panelists, followed by being spread on the area using fingers in circular motion for 10 seconds, and leaving 15 seconds. This spreading protocol was repeated four times, and spreadability was evaluated in accordance with the following criteria.

[0506] Good: spreading was not possible after third or fourth spreading

[0507] Fair: spreading was not possible after second spreading.

[0508] Poor: spreading was not possible after first spreading

[0509] The results are shown in Table 1.

[0510] (Texture)

[0511] 20 μL each of the compositions according to Examples 1-3 and Comparative Examples 1-4 was applied onto the surface with an area of 4 cm*4 cm of the forearm of the panelists, followed by being spread by using fingers. The time required to spread and greasiness were evaluated in accordance with the following criteria.

[0512] Good: Not greasy and not sticky

[0513] Fair: Acceptable greasiness and stickiness

[0514] Poor: Too greasy or too sticky

[0515] The results are shown in Table 1.

[0516] (Summary)

[0517] The compositions according to Examples 1-3, which correspond to the present invention, were stable and were able to provide, at least, an acceptable level of sebum control, good spreadability and comfortable texture.

[0518] The composition according to Comparative Example 1, which did not include the (f) first powder, was unstable under centrifugation and provided poor sebum control and poor spreadability.

[0519] The composition according to Comparative Example 2, which did not include the (c) anionic polymer, was unstable in microscopic view.

[0520] The composition according to Comparative Example 3, which did not include the (a) cationic polymer, provided poor spreadability and poor texture.

[0521] The composition according to Comparative Example 4, which did not include the (b) non-polymeric acid having two or more pKa values or salt thereof, provided poor sebum control.

Claims

CLAIMS1. A composition, preferably a cosmetic composition, and more preferably a cosmetic composition for a keratin material such as skin, comprisinga plurality of aqueous phases comprising:(a) at least one cationic polymer;(b) at least one non-polymeric acid having two or more pKa values or salt thereof;(c) at least one anionic polymer; and(d) water,anda fatty phase comprising:(e) at least one oil,whereinthe aqueous phases are dispersed in the fatty phase, andthe composition further comprises (f) at least one first powder comprising:(i) at least one inorganic oxide, preferably metal oxide, and more preferably alkaline earth metal oxide; and(ii) at least one fatty acid or salt thereof, preferably saturated fatty acid or salt thereof, and more preferably metal salt of saturated fatty acid.

2. The composition according to Claim 1, wherein the (a) cationic polymer is selected from polylysines, chitosans, and mixtures thereof.

3. The composition according to Claim 1 or 2, wherein the amount of the (a) cationic polymer(s) in the composition is from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

4. The composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 3, wherein the (b) non- polymeric acid having two or more pKa values or salt thereof is an organic acid or salt thereof, preferably a hydrophilic or water-soluble organic acid or salt thereof, and more preferably phytic acid or salt thereof.

5. The composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 4, wherein the amount of the (b) non-polymeric acid(s) having two or more pKa values or salt(s) thereof in the composition is from 0.001% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.003% to 5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.005% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

6. The composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 5, wherein the (c) anionic polymer is selected from the group consisting of polysaccharides such as alginic acid, hyaluronic acid, and cellulose polymers, anionic (co)polyaminoacids such as (co)polyglutamic acids, (co)poly(meth)acrylic acids, (co)polyamic acids, (co)polystyrene sulfonate, (co)poly(vinyl sulfates), dextran sulfate, chondroitin sulfate, (co)polymaleic acids, polyfumaric acids, maleic acid (co)polymers, and salts thereof.

7. The composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 6, wherein the amount of the (c) anionic polymer(s) in the composition is from 0.01% to 15% by weight,preferably from 0.05% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

8. The composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 7, wherein the amount of the (d) water in the composition is from 10% to 50% by weight, preferably from 15% to 45% by weight, and more preferably from 20% to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

9. The composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 8, wherein the amount of the (e) oil(s) in the composition is from 10% to 50% by weight, preferably from 15% to 45% by weight, and more preferably from 20% to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

10. The composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 9, wherein the amount of the (f) first powder(s) in the composition is from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

11. The composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 10, wherein the composition further comprises (g) at least one second powder selected from particles comprising silica and hydroxyapatite and / or (h) at least one third powder selected from particles comprising silica, titanium dioxide, and magnesium oxide or magnesium hydroxide.

12. The composition according to Claim 11, wherein the amount of the (g) second powder(s) and / or the (h) third powder(s) in the composition is from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

13. The composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 12, wherein the amount of the aqueous phases in the composition is from 30% to 70% by weight, preferably from 35% to 65% by weight, and more preferably from 40% to 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

14. The composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 13, wherein the amount of the fatty phase in the composition is from 30% to 70% by weight, preferably from 35% to 65% by weight, and more preferably from 40% to 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

15. A cosmetic process for a keratin material such as skin, comprising:applying to the keratin material the composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 14.

Citation Information

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