Cosmetic material composition for improving skin barrier

Abstract

The present invention relates to a cosmetic material composition for improving the skin barrier by reducing a packing distance in a lamellar lipid structure of the skin barrier, improves the structure of the skin barrier so that lipid layers are densely arranged, protects the skin from external irritation, and provides the effect of effectively retaining moisture.

Description

Cosmetic composition for improving skin barrier

[0001] This patent application claims priority to Patent Application No. 10-2024-0166369 filed with the Korean Intellectual Property Office on November 20, 2024 and Patent Application No. 10-2025-0176927 filed with the Korean Intellectual Property Office on November 20, 2025, the disclosures of said patent applications are incorporated herein by reference.

[0002] The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition that improves the skin barrier by reducing the packing distance in the lamellar lipid structure of the skin barrier and has excellent sensory quality and cosmetic adhesion.

[0003] The skin barrier performs the function of protecting the body from external pollutants or irritants and preventing moisture loss. The structure of the skin barrier is generally described as a 'brick and mortar' structure consisting of corneocytes present in the stratum corneum and intercellular lipids that act as an adhesive between them. Among the components of the skin barrier, intercellular lipids form a layered structure composed mainly of ceramides, cholesterol, and free fatty acids, playing a crucial role in the performance of barrier functions. This layered structure is known to consist of lipid molecules arranged horizontally to form packings such as hexagonal or orthorhombic shapes, creating multiple layers spaced several nanometers apart.

[0004] Conventionally, there have been numerous attempts to improve the skin barrier by reducing trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL) or enhancing skin hydration, and compositions combining ceramide, cholesterol, and fatty acids in specific proportions have been proposed as solutions. However, these compositions have a problem in that they focus solely on reducing skin moisture loss by applying moisturizing ingredients or lamellar structures similar to intercellular lipids to the skin, failing to sufficiently improve the fundamental condition of the skin. Furthermore, applying large amounts of lipid components, most of which are poorly soluble, leads to formulation stability issues. To address this, using high concentrations of highly polar oils, lecithin, or emulsifiers results in a heavy and stuffy texture and poor sensory quality when the composition is applied to the skin. Considering that recent cosmetic trends aim to achieve a light and refreshing sensory quality, these problems require even greater solutions.

[0005] According to existing research results on lipid structures based on skin condition, a high proportion of hexagonal structures with a wide packing distance is observed in atopic skin with a damaged barrier, while a high proportion of orthorhombic structures with a narrow packing distance is observed in normal skin with a healthy barrier. Therefore, it is expected that reducing the packing distance of skin intercellular lipids will result in a denser arrangement of lipid layers, thereby fundamentally enhancing the functions of protecting the skin from external stimuli and retaining internal moisture.

[0006] Under the circumstances described above, the inventors focused on a cosmetic composition capable of forming a dense and stable skin barrier structure and also ensuring excellent sensory quality.

[0007] The objective of the present invention is to provide a cosmetic composition capable of structurally improving the skin barrier by reducing the distance between the intercellular lipid structures of the skin barrier, particularly the lateral packing, in order to overcome the limitations of existing barrier improvement compositions focused on lipid supply and moisturization that focus on reducing TEWL.

[0008] Specifically, the purpose is to provide a new concept of barrier-improving cosmetic composition that goes beyond the effects seen in existing ceramide-based compositions, changes the lipid packing structure within the skin, and can verify the improvement effect using a structure-based scientific method using FT-IR spectra.

[0009] The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition that improves the skin barrier by reducing the packing distance in the intercellular lipid structure of the skin barrier.

[0010] The present invention will be described in more detail below.

[0011] Throughout this specification, materials, methods, and embodiments are merely illustrative and do not limit the invention. Descriptions of specific terms are provided to enable the practice of various embodiments of the invention. All terms used in this specification have the same meaning as generally understood by those skilled in the art to which the invention pertains.

[0012] One aspect of the present invention is hydrogenated lecithin;

[0013] One or more auxiliary surfactants selected from the group consisting of cetyl phosphate, potassium cetyl phosphate, sodium stearoyl glutamate, sodium methyl stearoyl taurate, sodium surfectin, sodium dilaumidoglutamide lysine, polysorbate 20, polysorbate 60, polysorbate 80, PEG-40 stearate, beheneth-20, and steareth-20;

[0014] Squalane; and

[0015] It is a cosmetic composition containing lipids including triglycerides or shea butter.

[0016] The term “hydrogenated lecithin” in this specification is a substance formed by adding hydrogen to the double bonds of unsaturated hydrocarbons of lecithin, a type of cell membrane component found in plants and animals, to include a saturated chain. Hydrogenated lecithin has a structure similar to the major components constituting the cell membrane of the skin, has high skin affinity, and can contribute to preventing dryness and keeping the skin moist by enhancing the skin’s moisture retention capacity.

[0017] In the present invention, the hydrogenated lecithin may have a hydrogenated phosphatidylcholine content of 10% by weight or more based on the weight of the hydrogenated lecithin. When the phosphatidylcholine content is 10% by weight or more, the formation of emulsions and nanostructures such as nanoemulsions and SLNs (Solid Lipid Nanoparticles) is facilitated. Additionally, the choline-type terminals generate electrostatic repulsion, which can increase the stability of the structures formed by the hydrogenated lecithin. Due to these characteristics, it is easy to create compositions that protect the skin and improve the skin barrier.

[0018] In the present invention, the auxiliary surfactant may be one or more selected from the group consisting of cetyl phosphate, potassium cetyl phosphate, sodium stearoyl glutamate, sodium methyl stearoyl taurate, sodium surfectin, sodium dilaumidoglutamide lysine, polysorbate 20, polysorbate 60, polysorbate 80, PEG-40 stearate, behenes-20, and steareth-20, but is not limited thereto.

[0019] The auxiliary surfactant of the present invention is additionally included to compensate for the fact that when only hydrogenated lecithin is included, the spherical structure formed by structural characteristics including saturated chains is easily deformed and forms a lamellar structure.

[0020] In the present invention, the auxiliary surfactant may preferably be one or more anionic surfactants selected from the group consisting of cetyl phosphate, potassium cetyl phosphate, sodium stearoyl glutamate, sodium methyl stearoyl taurate, sodium surfectin, and sodium dilaumidoglutamide lysine.

[0021] In the present invention, if the amount of the auxiliary surfactant is too small, the effect of contributing to the stability of the formulation decreases, thereby impairing the stability of the formulation, and if it is too large, it may cause skin irritation. The ratio of hydrogenated lecithin to the auxiliary surfactant of the present invention may be 1:0.03 to 1, 1:0.03 to 0.7, preferably 1:0.05 to 0.5 based on weight.

[0022] The term “squalane” in this specification refers to a component obtained by completely hydrogenating squalene present in the human body, and is a representative component of non-polar hydrocarbon oil widely used in cosmetic compositions. Squalane is known to have excellent moisturizing effects and, in particular, high skin affinity as it is known to have a structure similar to skin lipids or sebum components.

[0023] In the present invention, if the amount of squalane is too large, the emulsification stabilization effect by hydrogenated lecithin and the co-surfactant may decrease, thereby impairing the stability of the formulation, and the slippery sensation may increase, thereby lowering the sensory quality. On the other hand, if it is too small, the relative amount of hydrogenated lecithin and the co-surfactant may become too large, and insufficient dissolution may occur, thereby impairing the stability of the formulation. The ratio of hydrogenated lecithin to squalane in the present invention may be 1:1 to 20, 1:2 to 20, 1:3 to 20, 1:1 to 15, 1:2 to 15, 1:3 to 15, 1:1 to 10, 1:2 to 10, preferably 1:3 to 10, based on weight.

[0024] In the present invention, lipids may include triglycerides or shea butter. Although lipids generally refer to hydrophobic or amphiphilic substances, in the present invention, lipids may be used interchangeably with triglyceride-based fats. The lipids or triglyceride-based fats of the present invention comprise triglyceride-based fats, which are simple lipids, and shea butter, which has a high content of triglycerides.

[0025] The term “triglyceride (TG)” in this specification refers to a lipid component found in nature with a structure in which glycerol is combined with three fatty acids. It plays a role in inhibiting moisture evaporation from the skin and protecting the skin from external stimuli, and is widely used in cosmetics because it can provide a moisturizing effect, particularly to dry skin or damaged skin barriers. Triglycerides have excellent moisture retention through barrier action, which can help regenerate damaged skin barriers.

[0026] In the present invention, the triglyceride may be one or more selected from the group consisting of caprylic / capric triglyceride, caprylic / capric / linoleic triglyceride, caprylic / capric / stearic triglyceride, and caprylic / capric / succinic triglyceride, but is not limited thereto.

[0027] In the present invention, the triglyceride may preferably be a caprylic / capric / succinic triglyceride. The caprylic / capric / succinic triglyceride is a mixed lipid component formed by combining caprylic acid (C8), capric acid (C10), and succinic acid with glycerol. It has a higher viscosity than the caprylic / capric triglyceride commonly used in cosmetics, and thus provides excellent long-lasting moisturization through adhesion and barrier properties, which can help regenerate damaged skin barriers.

[0028] The term “shea butter” as used in this specification refers to a natural ingredient originating from Africa, a plant-based fat widely used to protect and moisturize particularly dry and damaged skin. Shea butter contains various triglycerides and various fatty acids, such as oleic acid, palmitic acid, and linoleic acid, which can help nourish and protect the skin. Additionally, it has a paste-like consistency, providing excellent skin barrier effects and long-lasting moisture, which can help regenerate damaged skin barriers.

[0029] In the present invention, if the amount of triglyceride or shea butter is too large, it may exceed the range in which hydrogenated lecithin and co-surfactants can be stabilized, thereby impairing the stability of the formulation and potentially reducing sensory quality, such as increasing stickiness due to an increased sense of adhesion. Also, if it is too small, it may impair the dissolution effect of solid components including emulsifiers, thereby impairing the stability of the formulation.

[0030] In the present invention, squalane and lipids are in a ratio of 1:0.001 to 1:0.8, 1:0.001 to 1:0.6, 1:0.001 to 1:0.5, 1:0.004 to 1:0.8, 1:0.004 to 1:0.6, 1:0.004 to 1:0.5, 1:0.005 to 1:0.8, 1:0.005 to 1:0.6, 1:0.005 to 1:0.5, 1:0.009 to 1:0.8, 1:0.009 to 1:0.6, 1:0.009 to 1:0.5, 1:0.01 to 1:0.8, 1:0.01 to 1:0.6, 1:0.01 to It may be included in, but is not limited to, 1:0.5, 1:0.1 to 1:0.8, 1:0.1 to 1:0.6, 1:0.1 to 1:0.5, 1:0.15 to 1:0.8, 1:0.15 to 1:0.6, 1:0.15 to 1:0.5, 1:0.16 to 1:0.8, 1:0.16 to 1:0.6, 1:0.16 to 1:0.5, 1:0.3 to 1:0.8, 1:0.3 to 1:0.6, and 1:0.3 to 1:0.5.

[0031] In the present invention, squalane is present in an amount of less than 0.1 to 15 wt%, 0.1 to 10 wt%, 0.1 to 5 wt%, 0.1 to 3 wt%, 0.1 to 1 wt%, 0.1 to 0.8 wt%, 0.1 to 0.5 wt%, less than 0.1 to 0.4 wt%, less than 0.15 to 15 wt%, 0.15 to 10 wt%, 0.15 to 5 wt%, 0.15 to 3 wt%, 0.15 to 1 wt%, 0.15 to 0.8 wt%, 0.15 to 0.5 wt%, less than 0.15 to 0.4 wt%, less than 0.2 to 15 wt%, 0.2 to 10 wt%, 0.2 to 5 wt%, 0.2 to 3 wt%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. It may include 0.2 to 1 weight%, 0.2 to 0.8 weight%, 0.2 to 0.5 weight%, less than 0.2 to 0.4 weight%, less than 0.25 to 15 weight%, 0.25 to 10 weight%, 0.25 to 5 weight%, 0.25 to 3 weight%, 0.25 to 1 weight%, 0.25 to 0.8 weight%, 0.25 to 0.5 weight%, less than 0.25 to 0.4 weight%, preferably less than 0.4 weight%, and

[0032] It may be included in an amount of more than 7.5% by weight to 20% by weight, 8% to 20% by weight, 8% to 15% by weight, 9% to 20% by weight, 9% to 15% by weight, 10% to 20% by weight, 10% to 15% by weight, for example, 10% by weight or 13% by weight relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition, but is not limited thereto.

[0033] In the present invention, the lipids are present in an amount of less than 0.01 to 7.5 wt%, 0.01 to 5 wt%, 0.01 to 1 wt%, 0.01 to 0.8 wt%, 0.01 to 0.5 wt%, 0.01 to 0.2 wt%, 0.01 to 0.1 wt%, 0.01 to 0.08 wt%, 0.01 to 0.06 wt%, less than 0.01 to 0.04 wt%, less than 0.015 to 7.5 wt%, 0.015 to 5 wt%, 0.015 to 1 wt%, 0.015 to 0.8 wt%, 0.015 to 0.5 wt%, 0.015 to 0.2 wt%, 0.015 to 0.1 wt%, 0.015 to It may include 0.08 wt%, 0.015 to 0.06 wt%, less than 0.015 to 0.04 wt%, less than 0.02 to 7.5 wt%, 0.02 to 5 wt%, 0.02 to 1 wt%, 0.02 to 0.8 wt%, 0.02 to 0.5 wt%, 0.02 to 0.2 wt%, 0.02 to 0.1 wt%, 0.02 to 0.08 wt%, 0.02 to 0.06 wt%, less than 0.02 to 0.04 wt%, preferably less than 0.04 wt%, and

[0034] It may be included in an amount of less than 1 to 7.5 weight%, 1 to 7 weight%, 1 to 5 weight%, less than 2 to 7.5 weight%, 2 to 7 weight%, 2 to 5 weight%, for example, 2 weight% or 5 weight% relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition, but is not limited thereto.

[0035] In the present invention, the ratio of hydrogenated lecithin to lipids is, on a weight basis, 1 : 0.01 ~ 3.4, 1 : 0.01 ~ 3.3, 1 : 0.01 ~ 3.2, 1 : 0.03 ~ 3.4, 1 : 0.03 ~ 3.3, 1 : 0.03 ~ 3.2, 1 : 0.07 ~ 3.4, 1 : 0.07 ~ 3.3, 1 : 0.07 ~ 3.2, 1 : 1 ~ 3.4, 1 : 1 ~ 3.3, 1 : 1 ~ 3.2, 1 : 1.5 ~ 3.4, 1 : 1.5 ~ 3.3, 1 : 1.5 ~ 3.2, 1 : 3 ~ 3.4, 1 : 3 ~ 3.3, 1 : 3 ~ It could be 3.2.

[0036] In the present invention, hydrogenated lecithin, auxiliary surfactant, squalane and lipids may be included in a weight ratio of 1 : 0.03 ~ 1 : 3 ~ 20 : 0.01 ~ 15, 1 : 0.03 ~ 0.7 : 3 ~ 15 : 0.01 ~ 10, preferably 1 : 0.05 ~ 0.5 : 3 ~ 10 : 0.01 ~ 5, but are not limited thereto.

[0037] In the present invention, the cosmetic composition may further include one or more selected from the group consisting of ceramide and derivatives thereof, pseudoceramide, cholesterol and derivatives thereof, beta-sitosterol, fatty acids and pH regulators, but is not limited thereto.

[0038] In the present invention, ceramide and derivatives thereof are substances of animal or plant origin or of yeast origin, and may be one or more selected from the group consisting of ceramide EOP (Ceramide I), ceramide EOS (Ceramide I), ceramide NG (Ceramide II), ceramide NS (Ceramide II), ceramide NP (Ceramide III, IIIB), ceramide AP (Ceramide VI), ceramide AG (Ceramide AG), ceramide ENP (Ceramide ENP), ceramide OP (Ceramide OP), ceramide NP Stearate, and cerebroside.

[0039] In the present invention, the pseudoceramide is a synthetic lipid component developed by mimicking the natural ceramide of the skin, and may be one or more selected from the group consisting of hydroxypalmitoyl sphinganine, cetyl-PG hydroxyethyl palmitamide, hydroxypropyl bislauramide MEA, hydroxypropyl bispalmitamide MEA, hydroxypropyl bisstearamide MEA, and 2-oleamido-1,3-octadecanediol.

[0040] In the present invention, cholesterol, derivatives thereof, and beta-sitosterol are major lipid components present in the stratum corneum of the skin, and may be one or more selected from the group consisting of cholesterol, cholesterol sulfate, and beta-sitosterol.

[0041] In the present invention, the fatty acid may be one or more selected from the group consisting of lauric acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, arachidic acid, behenic acid, linoleic acid, and oleic acid, as a component that maintains the structural stability of the skin barrier by forming an intercellular lipid layer together with ceramide and cholesterol.

[0042] In the present invention, the pH adjuster may be one or more selected from the group consisting of citric acid, sodium citrate, hydroxyethylpiperazine ethanesulfonic acid, triethanolamine, tromethamine, arginine, sodium hydroxide, and potassium hydroxide.

[0043] In the present invention, the cosmetic composition may be for improving the skin barrier, but is not limited thereto.

[0044] In the present invention, the improvement of the skin barrier may be an improvement in the packing of skin barrier intercellular lipids, but is not limited thereto.

[0045] The term “skin barrier” as used in this specification may be used interchangeably with “stratum corneum.” The stratum corneum is generally composed of keratinocytes and intercellular lipids. Intercellular lipids are distributed around keratinocytes and form a lamellar structure, maintaining the structure of the stratum corneum and binding the keratinocytes together to enable them to function as a barrier. “Skin barrier packing” refers to a state in which lipid molecules forming the lamellar layer of intercellular lipids are densely packed. It is believed that the function of the skin barrier varies depending on the packing spacing. Specifically, “improvement of intercellular lipid packing” refers to a phenomenon in which the lateral packing state of lipid molecules within the lamellar structure formed by the intercellular lipids of the stratum corneum is rearranged more densely and in an orderly manner. Orthorhombic packing is the densest structure and exhibits excellent barrier function by inhibiting moisture evaporation and blocking the penetration of external stimuli. Therefore, in the present invention, “packing improvement” includes an increase in the alignment degree of lipid molecules, resulting in an increase in the proportion of the orthorhombic phase or a decrease in the proportion of the hexagonal or liquid crystal phase; and in the present invention, if the proportion of the orthorhombic structure with a narrow packing distance among the skin barrier packing structures appears relatively high, it can be considered as skin barrier improvement (Joke A. Bouwstra, Gert S. Gooris, Frank ERDubbelaar, Maja Ponec, Phase Behavior of Stratum Corneum Lipid Mixtures Based on Human Ceramides: The Role of Natural and Synthetic Ceramide 1, Journal of Investigative Dermatology, Volume 118, Issue 4 (2002), Pages 606-617, Molecular organization of the lipid matrix in intact Stratum corneum using ATR-FTIR spectroscopy, M. Boncheva et al., Biochimica et Biophysica Acta1778 (2008) 1344-1355).

[0046] In the present invention, the cosmetic composition may have excellent stability over time, excellent absorption rate quality, reduced stickiness, and excellent cosmetic adhesion.

[0047] In the present invention, the formulation of the cosmetic composition is not limited but can be prepared in the form of a general liquid formulation or a basic cosmetic formulation. General formulation forms of the cosmetic composition may include lotion, emulsion, cream, gel, essence, lip, mask, skin, toner, mist, balm, oil, pack, powder, and sunscreen.

[0048] The cosmetic composition of the present invention may be used according to conventional usage methods, and the frequency of use may be varied depending on the user's skin condition or preference. In addition, the cosmetic composition of the present invention may further include all types of ingredients usable in conventional cosmetics, such as moisturizers, sunscreens, neutralizing agents, thickening agents, fragrances, preservatives, antioxidants, or colorants.

[0049] Another aspect of the present invention is a cosmetic product comprising the cosmetic composition of the present invention.

[0050] Another aspect of the present invention is a method for manufacturing a cosmetic composition of the present invention.

[0051] Another aspect of the present invention is a skin makeup method comprising the following steps:

[0052] A step of applying the cosmetic composition according to the present invention to the skin.

[0053] Another aspect of the present invention is a method for improving a skin barrier comprising the following steps:

[0054] A step of applying the cosmetic composition of the present invention to the skin of an individual in need.

[0055] Another aspect of the present invention is the use of the cosmetic composition of the present invention as a skin barrier improving agent.

[0056] Another aspect of the present invention is the use of the cosmetic composition of the present invention for the preparation of a composition for improving the skin barrier.

[0057] In the present invention, the skin makeup method, the skin improvement method, and the use of the cosmetic composition are the use of the said cosmetic composition, and the specific description is made by reference to the description of the cosmetic composition of the present invention.

[0058] The present invention improves the skin barrier structure by reducing the packing distance of intercellular lipids within the skin and increasing their density, thereby allowing the lipid layer to be densely arranged, protecting the skin from external stimuli, and providing the effect of effectively protecting moisture. In addition, by including a relatively small amount of lipids, it ensures a fresh and excellent sensory quality and formulation stability.

[0059] Figure 1 is the result of analyzing the CH2 scissoring band in the treatment experiment of the composition of the present invention.

[0060] Figure 2 is the result of analyzing the CH2symmetric stretching band in the experiment on the composition of the present invention.

[0061] Figure 3 shows the results of analyzing the CH2 scissoring band in the experiment on the composition of the present invention.

[0062] The present invention relates to hydrogenated lecithin;

[0063] One or more auxiliary surfactants selected from the group consisting of cetyl phosphate, potassium cetyl phosphate, sodium stearoyl glutamate, sodium methyl stearoyl taurate, sodium surfectin, sodium dilaumidoglutamide lysine, polysorbate 20, polysorbate 60, polysorbate 80, PEG-40 stearate, beheneth-20, and steareth-20;

[0064] Squalane; and

[0065] The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition containing lipids including triglycerides or shea butter.

[0066] Throughout this specification, when a part is described as “comprising” a certain component, it means that, unless specifically stated otherwise, it does not exclude other components but may include additional components.

[0067] Additionally, where numerical ranges are disclosed in this specification, such ranges are continuous and include all values ​​from the minimum value to the maximum value of such ranges unless otherwise specified.

[0068] Throughout this specification, “%” used to indicate the concentration of a particular substance is (weight / weight)% unless otherwise noted.

[0069] The following description is not intended to be an example of all embodiments in which the present invention may be implemented or all features that the present invention may exhibit. For example, features shown in a specific embodiment may be incorporated into other embodiments, and features shown in a specific embodiment may be excluded from other embodiments. Furthermore, variations and additions presented herein are accepted as obvious to those skilled in the art without departing from the scope of the present invention. Accordingly, the following description is intended to illustrate specific embodiments of the present invention and is not intended to comprehensively limit all combinations and variations of the present invention.

[0070] The present invention will be explained in detail below through experimental examples.

[0071] Preparation Example 1. Preparation of cosmetic composition and confirmation of stability over time

[0072] According to the composition of Table 1 below, the raw materials were heated to 75°C or higher while stirring to dissolve them, and then dispersed using a disperser and a homomixer emulsifier. Subsequently, the composition was prepared by high-pressure emulsification once at 1,000 bar using a high-pressure homogenizer.

[0073] Ingredient Content (%) Comparative Example 1 Comparative Example 2 Example 1 Example 2 Purified Water To 100 To 100 To 100 To 100 Dipropylene Glycol 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 Glycerin 7.00 7.00 7.00 7.00 1,2-Hexanediol 1.50 1.50 1.50 1.50 Panthenol 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 Propanediol 6.00 6.00 6.00 6.00 Arginine - Appropriate Appropriate Appropriate Cetyl Phosphate - 0.12 0.12 0.12 Hydrogenated Lecithin 1.60 1.60 1.60 1.60 Caprylic / Capric / Succinic Triglyceride 0.00 0.00 2.00 5.00 Squalane 15.00 15.00 13.00 10.00

[0074] To verify whether the composition was properly formed, the characteristics of the compositions in Table 1 were compared, and the results are shown in Table 2. Comparative Example 1 was a composition without an auxiliary surfactant, and it was confirmed that the oil separated immediately after preparation, indicating a lack of stability over time. Comparative Example 2 was a composition containing an auxiliary surfactant, but the emulsion surface was non-uniform, so it was expected that phase separation would occur after some time; in other words, it was confirmed that it still lacked stability over time. On the other hand, Examples 1 and 2, which contained both an auxiliary surfactant and caprylic / capric / succinic triglycerides, were confirmed to have secured stability over time.

[0075] Comparative Example 1 Comparative Example 2 Example 1 Example 2 Appearance Immediately after preparation Layer separation Emulsion surface non-uniformity Appearance Good Appearance Good

[0076] Preparation Example 2. Preparation of a cosmetic composition

[0077] According to the composition of Table 3 below, the raw materials were heated to 75°C or higher while stirring to dissolve them, and then dispersed using a disperser and a homogenizer. Subsequently, high-pressure emulsification was performed once at 1,000 bar using a high-pressure homogenizer, an appropriate amount of carbomer was dissolved in purified water at room temperature and added, and then mixed using a homogenizer to prepare the composition.

[0078] Ingredient Content (%) Example 3 Example 4 Comparative Example 3 Water of Purification To 100 To 100 To 100 Dipropylene Glycol 1.00 1.00 1.00 Glycerin 7.00 7.00 7.00 1,2-Hexanediol 1.50 1.50 1.50 Panthenol 1.00 1.00 1.00 Propanediol 6.00 6.00 6.00 Arginine Appropriate Amount Appropriate Amount Appropriate Amount Cetyl Phosphate 0.12 0.12 0.12 Hydrogenated Lecithin 1.60 1.60 1.60 Caprylic / Capric / Succinic Triglyceride 2.00 5.00 7.50 Squalane 13.00 10.00 7.50 Water of Purification 15.00 15.00 15.00 Carbomer Appropriate Amount Appropriate Amount

[0079] Experimental Example 1. Results of Sensitive Quality Evaluation

[0080] To evaluate the sensory quality of the composition, the absorption rate, stickiness, and overall satisfaction of Examples 3 and 4 and Comparative Example 3 were compared as shown in Table 4. As a result, it was confirmed that while increasing the triglyceride ratio accelerates the skin absorption rate, it also intensifies stickiness, leading to a decrease in the overall satisfaction of Comparative Example 3 compared to Examples 3 and 4.

[0081] Sensory Quality Example 3 Example 4 Comparative Example 3 Skin Absorption Speed ​​Slightly Slow Moderate Fast Stickiness Moderate Moderate Stickiness Overall Satisfaction Moderate Moderate Stickiness

[0082] Experimental Example 2. Results of Packing Improvement Evaluation

[0083] Various studies have been conducted on methods to determine the packing distance of skin intercellular lipids. Generally, packing distance is determined using X-ray diffraction techniques, but this is an invasive method requiring tissue separation, making it difficult to evaluate in the actual human body. Thus, since M. Boncheva's research team published a method in 2008 to relatively compare lipid vibration changes according to the degree of packing using FT-IR (Fourier-Transform Infrared Spectroscopy), cases of studying the human skin barrier using this method (S. G. Danby's research team) have emerged, making it possible to relatively compare the degree of packing using FT-IR.

[0084] Since the peak around 1463–1473, which corresponds to the CH2 scissoring mode, is very fine, the signal is amplified and verified using the second derivative method; this is a commonly used method in FT-IR analysis. For specific details regarding the verification of skin barrier packing improvement using FT-IR, refer to Hye Jin Kim, Sunyoung Kim and Seol-Hoon Lee, *Non-invasive Skin Barrier Lipid Packing Analysis Using FT-IR and Study of Cosmetic Formulation for Damaged Barrier*, *J. Soc. Cosmet. Sci. Korea, Vol. 46, No. 3, September 2020, 307-317*.

[0085] M. Boncheva et al., Molecular organization of the lipid matrix in intact Stratum corneum using ATR-FTIR spectroscopy, Biochimica et Biophysica Acta1778 (2008) 1344-1355,

[0086] SG Danby et al., Enhancement of stratum corneum lipid structure improves skin barrier function and protects against irritation in adults with dry, eczema-prone skin, British Journal of Dermatology (2022) 186, pp875-886 and

[0087] This can be confirmed in SG Danby et al., Characterization of skin barrier defects using infrared spectroscopy in patients with atopic dermatitis, Clin Exp Dermatol 2024; 49:466-477.

[0088] In summary, for CH₂ scissoring, if the lipid has an orthorhombic packing structure, the FT-IR values ​​at 1463 and 1473 cm⁻¹ at the second derivative. -1 Two peaks appear at , and from the hexagonal at 1468 cm⁻¹ -1 A single broad peak appears at 1463, 1473 cm⁻¹. -1 The clearer the peak, the more it is evaluated as an orthorhombic structure.

[0089] For CH₂ symmetric stretching, 2850 cm -1 It is observed in the vicinity, and it is evaluated that as the peak moves toward the lower wavenumber direction, the CH2 chains become more aligned, and the packing distance decreases.

[0090] (1) Human skin FT-IR evaluation

[0091] To confirm the packing-improving efficacy of the present invention, a 1% Sodium Dodecyl Sulfate (SDS) patch was applied to the forearm of a subject for 24 hours to disturb and destroy the skin barrier. Subsequently, the composition to be evaluated was applied to check whether packing was improved.

[0092] Barrier packing was measured at 2850 cm using ATR (Attenuated total reflection) FT-IR. -1It was evaluated by confirming the peak shift pattern of the nearby CH2-stretching vibration mode. It is known that when packing is loose, the alkyl chains of the lipids are more likely to exist in a gauche conformation, increasing inter-CH interference and shifting the peak in this region to a relatively higher position; conversely, when packing is dense, the peak is more likely to exist in a trans conformation with no intramolecular interference and shifting the peak to a relatively lower position. From the measurement results, the packing improvement rate was calculated using the following formula.

[0093]

[0094] Specifically, first, the subject's measurement site was measured using FT-IR. Next, a 1% SDS patch was applied to the measurement site for 24 hours, followed by a 1-day rest period, after which the same site was measured using FT-IR. Subsequently, the subject was instructed to apply the evaluation composition to the evaluation site morning and evening for 4 days, and then the same site was measured again using FT-IR. As a result of the measurements, the improvement rate calculated using the above formula is shown in Table 5.

[0095] Non-coating Example 3 Example 4 Comparative Example 3 Packing Improvement Rate (%) 45.8 160.7 699 9.7 624.48

[0096] As a result, it was confirmed that packing was improved when the compositions of Examples 3 and 4 were applied, and showed superior recovery compared to no application and Comparative Example 3.

[0097] (2) Porcine skin FT-IR evaluation

[0098] To confirm the packing improvement efficacy of the present invention, an experimental group treated with 5% SDS for 16 hours at 32°C and an untreated group treated only with saline solution were prepared on 1 mm thick pig skin, and their compositions are shown in Table 6. Subsequently, the packing improvement rate was checked after applying the composition to be evaluated and after 16 hours at 32°C. Specifically, after drying the treated composition, the amount of moisture loss was measured using a TEWL instrument, and the CH2-CH2 scissoring band was analyzed using FT-IR. The increase or decrease in the orthohombic peak was quantified and is shown in Table 7 and Figure 1.

[0099] Ingredient Content (%) Comparative Example 4 Comparative Example 5 Example 5 Purified Water To 100 To 100 To 100 Dipropylene Glycol 1.00 3.00 1.00 Glycerin 7.00 3.00 7.00 1,2-Hexanediol 1.50 2.10 1.50 Panthenol 1.00 1.00 1.00 Propanediol 6.00 0.00 6.00 Arginine Appropriate Amount Appropriate Amount Appropriate Amount Cetyl Phosphate 0.00 0.16 0.08 Hydrogenated Lecithin 2.20 2.20 1.0 0 Macadamia Oil 1.50 1.50 0.00 Caprylic / Capric / Succinic Triglycerides 3.00 3.00 0.00 Caprylic / Capric Triglycerides 0.06 0.06 0.06 Shea Butter 4.5 15 4.5 15 0.015 Squalane 7.5 0 7.5 0 7.50 Purified Water 18.00 18.00 18.00 Carbomer Appropriate Amount Appropriate Amount Appropriate Amount

[0100] Classification Untreated SDS Comparative Example 4 Comparative Example 5 Example 5 TEWL (g / m² 2 / h)26.0035.8338.0038.6732.67Orthorhombic score75.9454.7537.9456.2676.13

[0101] Upon verification, it was confirmed that the skin barrier was damaged, with a significant increase in TEWL in the SDS-treated group. In contrast, in the group treated with the composition of Example 5, TEWL was significantly reduced (*P < 0.1), indicating that the damaged barrier was restored.

[0102] As a result of peak analysis of the CH₂-CH₂ scissoring band, the orthorhombic packing peak intensity increased in the treatment groups of Comparative Example 4 and Example 5, and in particular, the treatment group of Example 5 showed a significantly higher orthorhombic score compared to the control group (**P < 0.05). This means that the lateral packing between lipids was reformed more densely, and the barrier function was improved. On the other hand, when treated with the composition of Comparative Example 5, the hexagonal packing structure was relatively maintained, resulting in a lower barrier restoration effect compared to other cases.

[0103] Additionally, to confirm the packing improvement efficacy of the present invention, an SDS-treated group was prepared in which 5% SDS was treated for 16 hours at 32°C on 1 mm thick pig skin, and an untreated group was prepared in which only saline was treated. A composition according to Table 8 was applied to a separate SDS-treated group to serve as the experimental group. Subsequently, the packing improvement rate was confirmed after treatment at 32°C for 16 hours. Specifically, after drying the treated formulation, the amount of moisture loss was measured using a TEWL instrument, and the CH₂-CH₂ scissoring band and symmetric stretching band were analyzed using FT-IR and are shown in Table 9, Figure 2, and Figure 3.

[0104] Ingredient Content (%) Example 6 Purified Water To 100 Dipropylene Glycol 1.00 Glycerin 7.00 1,2-Hexanediol 1.50 Panthenol 1.00 Propanediol 6.00 Arginine (appropriate amount) Cetyl Phosphate 0.20 Hydrogenated Lecithin 2.40 Caprylic / Capric / Succinic Triglyceride 0.00 Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride 0.06 Shea Butter 0.015 Squalane 18.00 Purified Water 18.00 Carbomer (appropriate amount)

[0105] Example of Untreated SDS Classification 6TEWL (g / m²) 2 / h)14.1531.7523.60Symmetric stretch peak2849.312851.562850.27Orthorhombic score1.210.271.05

[0106] As a result of the examination, skin barrier damage was confirmed in the SDS-treated group, where the TEWL value increased significantly. On the other hand, when treated with the composition of Example 6, TEWL significantly decreased (*P < 0.05), confirming that water loss was alleviated. Regarding the change in the CH₂ symmetric stretching peak, when treated with the composition of Example 6, the peak recovered to a lower level compared to the SDS-damaged group, confirming that lipid packing was improved (*P < 0.05).

[0107] In the peak analysis of the CH₂-CH₂ scissoring band, the orthorhombic score of the SDS-treated group decreased sharply, whereas when treated with the composition of Example 6, it recovered to a level close to that of the control group (*P < 0.05). This means that the lipid layer was rearranged into a dense orthorhombic structure.

[0108] Experimental Example 3. Results of Cosmetic Adhesion Evaluation

[0109] The skin barrier is the outermost part of the human body to which color cosmetics adhere, and the condition of the skin barrier can affect color cosmetics. Accordingly, it was confirmed whether the composition of the present invention can help improve the adhesion of color cosmetics.

[0110] Specifically, the compositions of Examples 3 and 4 were applied to the forearm of a subject, and then a foundation composition was applied over them. Subsequently, the area where the foundation was applied was stripped using a strip tape to peel off one layer of the applied foundation, which was then placed on a black plate, and the L*, a*, and b* values ​​were measured using a colorimeter. As a control, an unused strip tape was set up and measured in the same manner, and the △E value, which confirms the degree of color change between the experimental group and the control group, was calculated using the following formula.

[0111]

[0112] As a result, in the case of Examples 3 and 4, the △E value was found to be smaller compared to the unapplied state. △E represents the distance in the CIE L*a*b* color space, and the smaller the value, the less color change from the control group, meaning that there is less peeling of color makeup due to tape stripping, and this can be interpreted as meaning that the adhesion of the makeup has increased.

[0113] Non-coating Example 3 Example 4 △E12.6111.938.93

[0114] The scope of protection of the present invention is not limited to the description of the embodiments explicitly explained above. Furthermore, the scope of protection of the present invention cannot be limited by obvious modifications or substitutions in the technical field to which the present invention belongs.

Claims

1. Hydrogenated lecithin; An auxiliary surfactant comprising one or more selected from the group consisting of cetyl phosphate, potassium cetyl phosphate, sodium stearoyl glutamate, sodium methyl stearoyl taurate, sodium surfectin, sodium dilaumidoglutamide lysine, polysorbate 20, polysorbate 60, polysorbate 80, PEG-40 stearate, beheneth-20, and steareth-20; Squalane; and A cosmetic composition comprising lipids including triglycerides or shea butter.

2. In Paragraph 1, A cosmetic composition comprising squalane and lipids in a weight ratio of 1:0.001 to 1:0.

8.

3. In Paragraph 1, A cosmetic composition containing squalane in an amount of 0.1 to 20 weight percent based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

4. In Paragraph 1, A cosmetic composition containing squalane in an amount of 0.1 to 20 weight percent based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

5. In Paragraph 1, A cosmetic composition comprising hydrogenated lecithin, an auxiliary surfactant, squalane, and lipids in a weight ratio of 1:0.03 to 1:3 to 20:0.01 to 15.

6. In Paragraph 1, A cosmetic composition in which the triglyceride is one or more selected from the group consisting of caprylic / capric triglyceride, caprylic / capric / linoleic triglyceride, caprylic / capric / stearic triglyceride, and caprylic / capric / succinic triglyceride.

7. In Paragraph 1, A cosmetic composition comprising one or more selected from the group consisting of ceramide and its derivatives, pseudoceramide, cholesterol and its derivatives, beta-sitosterol, fatty acids, and pH regulators.

8. In Paragraph 1, The cosmetic composition is a cosmetic composition for improving the skin barrier.

9. In Paragraph 8, A cosmetic composition that improves the skin barrier by improving the packing of skin barrier intercellular lipids.

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