A composition comprising an aqueous gelling agent, a surfactant, an oil, a filler, and ascorbic acid

Abstract

This invention relates to a composition comprising an aqueous phase gelled with a mixture of at least 1.5% by weight of a crosslinked acrylic homopolymer and a 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid homopolymer; an aliphatic phase comprising a volatile hydrocarbon oil, a non-volatile hydrocarbon oil selected from fatty amides, and a non-volatile hydrocarbon oil selected from isononanoates, synthetic ethers containing 10 to 40 carbon atoms, and / or carbonates; a surfactant selected from glycerides; a filler selected from amino acid powders and solid cellulose beads; and at least 5% by weight of ascorbic acid and / or its derivatives relative to the total weight of the composition.

Description

Technical Field

[0001] This invention relates to the field of keratin materials for care and / or cosmetic purposes, particularly anti-aging care of keratin materials, especially anti-aging care of the skin.

[0002] For the purposes of this invention, the term "keratin material" refers in particular to skin, lips and / or eyelashes, especially skin and / or lips, and preferably skin of the body and / or face, with greater preference for facial skin.

[0003] Skin aging is caused by both internal and external factors affecting the skin. During the aging process, harmful changes occur in the structure and function of the skin. Due to these changes in skin metabolism, the main clinical sign is the appearance of wrinkles and fine lines, caused by tissue laxity and loss of elasticity.

[0004] In addition, intrinsic aging that causes skin changes leads to a slowdown in skin cell renewal, which manifests primarily as harmful clinical changes such as a reduction in subcutaneous fat and the appearance of fine lines or wrinkles, as well as histopathological changes such as an increase in the number and thickness of elastic fibers, loss of vertical fibers in the elastic tissue membrane, and the presence of large, irregular fibroblasts in these elastic tissue cells. Background Technology

[0005] The known practice is to introduce active agents into cosmetic and / or dermatological compositions to combat signs of aging.

[0006] For example, there has long been a search in the fields of cosmetology and dermatology for formulations of ascorbic acid (or vitamin C) in various forms because of its numerous beneficial properties, especially in large quantities (e.g., greater than 5% by weight).

[0007] Specifically, ascorbic acid can stimulate the synthesis of connective tissue, especially collagen, enhancing the skin's defense against external aggressors such as UV radiation and pollution. It also compensates for vitamin E deficiency in the skin, depigmentes the skin, and has free radical scavenging properties. Due to its properties, ascorbic acid is effective against signs of skin aging, such as improving skin tone and reducing wrinkles and / or fine lines.

[0008] Unfortunately, these surfactants are generally unstable in oxidizing media and are therefore highly sensitive to certain environmental parameters, such as light, oxygen, and water. Consequently, when these surfactants come into contact with one of these parameters in particular, they degrade rapidly, which is contrary to their intended efficacy.

[0009] Furthermore, it remains difficult to use them in large quantities (especially more than 5% by weight) while maintaining satisfactory sensory results.

[0010] Specifically, compositions containing high levels of ascorbic acid may have certain drawbacks, including the disadvantage of affecting the sensory properties of the product by significantly producing undesirable effects.

[0011] In particular, compositions containing high levels of ascorbic acid can negatively impact the sensory properties of a product by producing a sticky and / or shiny, coarse or sluggish effect on the skin, as well as a lack of freshness and comfort.

[0012] In addition, the sensory properties of beauty and body care formulations are characterized by several criteria, among which the soft feeling imparted to the user during application of the composition to the skin, and the "soapwash" phenomenon, which is considered prohibited, are mentioned. This phenomenon is characterized by the appearance of a white film on the skin during application of the formulation.

[0013] To counteract these negative effects, the well-known practice is to use silicone compounds.

[0014] However, a drawback of this technical solution is that it introduces unwanted ingredients into cosmetic formulations. In fact, current consumer demand tends to favor the absence of silicone compounds in cosmetic compositions.

[0015] Finally, it should be noted that certain combinations of surfactants (especially anti-aging surfactants) can exacerbate the negative changes mentioned above. Summary of the Invention

[0016] Therefore, there remains a need for a composition that can be used, particularly in the fields of cosmetics and / or dermatology, containing a large amount (especially greater than 5% by weight) of stabilized ascorbic acid and / or its derivatives, and having improved sensory properties.

[0017] In particular, there is still a need for a composition that can be used especially in the cosmetic field, containing a large amount of stabilized ascorbic acid and / or its derivatives, which does not require soap washing.

[0018] There is still a need for a composition, particularly for use in the cosmetic field, containing a high amount of stabilized ascorbic acid and / or its derivatives, which provides a soft finish upon application.

[0019] There is still a need for a composition containing a large amount of stabilized ascorbic acid and / or its derivatives that provides a good degree of sensory pleasure, especially in terms of consistency and comfort, or even freshness, and significantly reduces greasy residue, stickiness, coarseness and / or shine on the skin.

[0020] Finally, there is still a need for compositions that are compatible with current consumer needs, especially those related to the environment.

[0021] This invention is specifically designed to meet these needs.

[0022] Invention Summary

[0023] Therefore, according to its first aspect, the present invention relates to a composition, particularly a cosmetic composition, especially a composition for use in cosmetics and / or care of keratin materials, comprising:

[0024] - At least one aqueous phase, which is gelled with a mixture of at least 1.5% by weight of crosslinked acrylic homopolymer and 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid homopolymer relative to the total weight of the composition;

[0025] - At least one aliphatic phase comprising at least (i) a volatile hydrocarbon oil, (ii) a non-volatile hydrocarbon oil selected from fatty amides, and (iii) a non-volatile hydrocarbon oil selected from isononanoates, synthetic ethers containing 10 to 40 carbon atoms, and / or carbonates.

[0026] - At least one surfactant selected from glycerides;

[0027] - At least one filler selected from amino acid powder and solid cellulose beads; and

[0028] - At least 5% by weight of ascorbic acid and / or its derivatives relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0029] The inventors have surprisingly discovered that the compositions according to the invention can effectively stabilize large quantities of ascorbic acid and its derivatives (optionally in combination with other active agents) while having improved sensory properties.

[0030] This is because, as shown in the examples given below, the compositions according to the invention are stable and possess sensory properties that please the user. They do not undergo soaping and have very good sensory properties: in particular, they have a soft, non-sticky, and non-shine finish.

[0031] They also advantageously enable the use of large amounts of surfactants while maintaining these properties.

[0032] Advantageously, the compositions according to the invention do not contain any controversial ingredients, and in particular do not contain any ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA) or its derivatives, or any silicone compounds, or any parabens.

[0033] Therefore, the compositions according to the present invention meet environmental requirements and consumer needs.

[0034] The compositions according to the invention are particularly useful for care and / or cosmetic keratin materials, and are preferably used for care keratin materials.

[0035] Therefore, according to another aspect of its aspects, the present invention also relates to a cosmetic method for makeup and / or care, preferably for care of keratin materials, particularly for skin and / or lips, comprising at least one step of applying a composition according to the invention to said keratin material.

[0036] Other features, variations and advantages of the compositions according to the invention will become clearer when reading the following description and examples. Detailed Implementation

[0037] Ascorbic acid and its derivatives

[0038] As previously mentioned, the compositions according to the invention comprise at least 5% by weight of ascorbic acid (also known as vitamin C) and / or its derivatives relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0039] In particular, the compositions according to the invention comprise 5% to 25% by weight, more particularly 5% to 20% by weight, preferably 6% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of ascorbic acid (also known as vitamin C) and / or its derivatives, with ascorbic acid being more preferred.

[0040] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises 5% to 12% by weight of the active material ascorbic acid (also known as vitamin C) and / or its derivatives relative to the total weight of the composition, and more preferably 6% to 11% by weight of the active material ascorbic acid (also known as vitamin C) and / or its derivatives.

[0041] More preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises 5% to 12% by weight of the active material ascorbic acid relative to the total weight of the composition, and even more preferably 6% to 11% by weight of the active material ascorbic acid.

[0042] Ascorbic acid can be in D or L form, preferably L form, and analogues thereof selected from its salts, preferably sodium ascorbate, magnesium or sodium ascorbate phosphate, and glycosyl ascorbic acid.

[0043] Ascorbic acid derivatives that may be specifically mentioned include glycolipids of ascorbic acid and metal salts of phosphorylated ascorbic acid.

[0044] Glycoesters of ascorbic acid that can be used in this invention are, in particular, glycosyl, mannosyl, fructose-based, fucose-based, galactosyl, N-acetylglucosamine, and N-acetylmuramic acid derivatives and mixtures thereof, and more particularly ascorbic acid-2-glucoside or 2-O-α-D-pyranoglucosyl L-ascorbic acid or 6-O-β-D-pyranoglucosyl L-ascorbic acid. The following compounds and methods for their preparation are specifically described in EP 487 404, EP 425 066, and JP5213736.

[0045] In itself, the metal salts of phosphorylated ascorbic acid are selected from alkali metal ascorbate phosphates, alkaline earth metal ascorbate phosphates, and transition metal ascorbate phosphates.

[0046] Suitable ascorbic acid derivatives for use according to the present invention may be selected from 5,6-di-O-dimethylsilyl ascorbate sold by Exsymol under index number PRO-AA, potassium salt of dl-α-tocopherol-dl-ascorbic acid phosphate sold by Senju Pharmaceutical under index number Sepivital EPC, magnesium ascorbic acid phosphate sold by Roche under index number Stay-C 50, sodium ascorbic acid phosphate, and ascorbate glucoside sold by Hayashibara.

[0047] Magnesium ascorbate phosphate is preferred.

[0048] The compositions according to the invention may particularly contain 5% to 12% by weight of the active material ascorbic acid and / or its derivatives relative to the total weight of the composition, especially 5.5% to 10% by weight, preferably 6% to 9% by weight and more preferably 6.5% to 7.5% by weight.

[0049] Aqueous gelling agent

[0050] As previously indicated, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one aqueous phase gelled with a mixture of at least 1.5% by weight of crosslinked acrylic homopolymer and 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid homopolymer relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0051] Preferably, the aqueous phase is gelled using a mixture of at least 1.8% by weight of crosslinked acrylic homopolymer and 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid homopolymer relative to the total weight of the composition, particularly at least 1.9% by weight of crosslinked acrylic homopolymer and 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid homopolymer, and more preferably at least 2% by weight of crosslinked acrylic homopolymer and 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid homopolymer.

[0052] Preferably, the crosslinked acrylic homopolymer and the 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid homopolymer are present in the composition in a mass ratio of 1 / 3.

[0053] 2-Acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid homopolymer

[0054] The 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid homopolymer that can be used in the compositions according to the invention comprises a 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid unit of formula (I):

[0055] [Chem 1]

[0056]

[0057] Where X + It can be a proton, an alkali metal cation, an alkaline earth metal cation, or an ammonium ion.

[0058] As a homopolymer of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid suitable for use in this invention, references may be made to crosslinked or non-crosslinked homopolymers of sodium acrylamide-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, such as those used in the commercial Simulgel 800 (CTFA name: Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate), crosslinked homopolymers of ammonium acrylamide-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid (INCI name: Ammonium Polyacryldimethyltauramide), such as those described in patent EP 0815928B1, and those marketed by Clariant under the trade name Hostacerin. Products for sale.

[0059] Preferably, as a 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid homopolymer that can be used in the compositions according to the invention, crosslinked ammonium acrylamide-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid homopolymer (INCI name: Ammonium Polyacrylyldimethyltauramide) is particularly mentioned, especially by Clariant under the trade name Hostacerin Products for sale.

[0060] The concentration of the 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid homopolymer (i.e., the active material) typically ranges from 0.05% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.1% to 8% by weight, preferably from 0.2% to 7% by weight, preferably from 0.25% to 5% by weight, and even more particularly from 1% to 2% by weight.

[0061] Crosslinked acrylic homopolymer

[0062] Crosslinked acrylic homopolymer is an anionic synthetic thickening polymer.

[0063] In crosslinked acrylic homopolymers, those crosslinked using allyl ethers of alcohols from the sugar series may be mentioned, such as products sold by Noveon under the names Carbopol 980, 981, 954, 2984 and 5984, or products sold by 3VSA under the names Synthalen M and Synthalen K.

[0064] Such acrylic homopolymers can exist in the composition in particulate or non-particulate form. When they exist in particulate form, their average size in the hydrated state is preferably less than or equal to 10 μm, and even more preferably less than or equal to 5 μm. Their average size in the dry or non-hydrated state is preferably less than or equal to 2 μm, and more preferably less than or equal to 1 μm.

[0065] Preferably, the acrylic homopolymer exists in a non-particulate form.

[0066] Preferably, a homopolymer of acrylic acid that is at least partially neutralized is used. The homopolymer used according to the invention is particularly selected from sodium polyacrylate and potassium polyacrylate. Sodium polyacrylate is preferred.

[0067] Acrylic homopolymers can be advantageously neutralized to a degree of 5% to 80%.

[0068] Examples of acrylic polymers that have been neutralized before use include:

[0069] - Sodium polyacrylate, specifically known by the name Cosmedia Those sold containing 90% solids and 10% water, or under the name Cosmedia Those reverse emulsions containing approximately 60% dry active material, oil (hydrogenated polydecene), and surfactant (PPG-5 lauryl ether-5) are both sold by Cognis.

[0070] - Partially neutralized sodium polyacrylate, particularly in the form of a reverse emulsion containing at least one polar oil, such as that produced by BASF under the name... Products sold by EM; and

[0071] - Its mixture.

[0072] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises sodium polyacrylate, particularly that produced by Cognis under the name Cosmedia. Sodium polyacrylate, which is sold, contains 90% solids and 10% water.

[0073] Alternatively, an unneutralized acrylic polymer can be used, which is then partially or completely neutralized by any suitable means before use, particularly by adding any alkali such as sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, or alkanolamine (such as triethanolamine). Sodium polyacrylate is obtained, for example. Potassium polyacrylate is also suitable for this invention.

[0074] A neutralization step, such as using sodium or potassium counterions, is important for imparting gelling properties to the acidic polymer and thus stabilizing the composition. During this neutralization step, the acrylic polymer is converted into the corresponding acrylate polymer.

[0075] The concentration of the preferably at least partially neutralized crosslinked acrylic homopolymer (i.e., the active material) typically ranges from 0.05 wt% to 15 wt% relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.1 wt% to 12 wt%, preferably from 0.2 wt% to 10 wt%, preferably from 0.25 wt% to 5 wt%, more particularly from 0.3 wt% to 1 wt%, and even more preferably from 0.3 wt% to 0.6 wt%.

[0076] According to a preferred embodiment, the crosslinked acrylic homopolymer is at least partially neutralized acrylic homopolymer, and preferably at least sodium polyacrylate.

[0077] According to a particular embodiment, the compositions according to the invention do not contain natural or naturally derived hydrophilic gelling agents, and in particular, do not contain non-starch polysaccharides.

[0078] According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention does not contain hydrophilic gelling agents such as sodium acrylamide-2-methylpropanesulfonate / hydroxyethyl acrylate copolymer.

[0079] According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention does not contain hydrophilic gelling agents such as hydroxyethyl acrylate / sodium acryloyl dimethyl taurate copolymer (INCI name).

[0080] According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention does not contain hydrophilic gelling agents such as crosslinked acrylamide / acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonate copolymer.

[0081] According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention does not contain hydrophilic gelling agents such as: partially or fully saponified anionic terpolymers of 2-methyl-2-[(1-oxo-2-propenyl)amino]-1-propanesulfonic acid, N,N-dimethylacrylamide and lauryl acrylate in the form of ammonium salts, which are tetraethoxylated and crosslinked with trimethylolpropane triacrylate.

[0082] According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention does not contain hydrophilic gelling agents such as ammonium acryloyl dimethyl taurate stearyl alcohol polyether 25 methacrylate crosspolymer.

[0083] Fat phase

[0084] The composition according to the invention comprises at least one fatty phase.

[0085] The fatty phase of the composition comprises at least (i) a volatile hydrocarbon oil, (ii) a non-volatile hydrocarbon oil selected from fatty amides, and (iii) a non-volatile hydrocarbon oil selected from isononanoates, synthetic ethers containing 10 to 40 carbon atoms, and / or carbonates.

[0086] The term "oil" refers to a non-aqueous compound that is liquid at room temperature (20°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) and is immiscible with water.

[0087] Preferably, the fatty phase content of the composition according to the invention ranges from 2% to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, particularly from 5% to 25% by weight, preferably from 10% to 20% by weight, and more preferably from 10% to 15% by weight.

[0088] Oil (i): Volatile hydrocarbon-based oil

[0089] As indicated above, the composition according to the present invention comprises at least one volatile hydrocarbon-based oil.

[0090] The term "hydrocarbon-based oil" refers to oil that primarily contains hydrogen and carbon atoms.

[0091] For the purposes of this invention, the term "volatile oil" refers to any oil that is capable of evaporating in less than one hour upon contact with skin at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. A volatile oil is a volatile cosmetic compound that is liquid at room temperature, particularly having a non-zero vapor pressure, and particularly having a vapor pressure of 0.13 Pa to 40000 Pa (10) at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. -3 Vapor pressure in the range of 1.3 Pa to 13000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mmHg), and more particularly in the range of 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mmHg).

[0092] Volatile hydrocarbon-based oils can be selected from volatile hydrocarbon-based oils containing 8 to 16 carbon atoms, especially branched C8-C. 16 Alkanes, such as C8-C 16 Isoalkanes (also known as isoparaffins), isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane, and oils, such as those sold under the trade names Isopar or Permethyl, branched C8-C... 16Esters, such as isohexyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof. In particular, volatile hydrocarbon oils are selected from volatile hydrocarbon oils containing 8 to 16 carbon atoms and mixtures thereof.

[0093] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one branched C8-C. 16 Alkanes, and more particularly isododecane.

[0094] Also mentioned are volatile straight-chain alkanes containing 8 to 16 carbon atoms, particularly 10 to 15 carbon atoms, and even more particularly 11 to 13 carbon atoms, such as n-dodecane (C64-24-24-24-24-24-24-24-24-24-24-25 ... 12 ) and n-tetradecane (C 14 ) and mixtures thereof, undecane-tridecane mixtures, n-undecane obtained in Examples 1 and 2 of Cognis' patent application WO 2008 / 155059 (C 11 ) and n-tridecane (C 13 A mixture of ) and its mixtures.

[0095] According to a preferred embodiment, the oil (i) is selected from volatile hydrocarbon-based oils containing 8 to 16 carbon atoms, particularly C8-C64 oils. 16 Isoalkanes, preferably isododecane.

[0096] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention is free of volatile straight-chain alkanes comprising 8 to 16 carbon atoms, particularly n-undecane (C 11 ) and n-tridecane (C 13 A mixture of ).

[0097] Preferably, the content of the volatile hydrocarbon oil in the composition ranges from 0.5% to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, particularly from 1% to 25% by weight, preferably from 2% to 20% by weight, and even more preferably from 3% to 10% by weight.

[0098] Oil (ii): Non-volatile hydrocarbon oils selected from fatty amides

[0099] The term "non-volatile" means that it remains on a keratin material at room temperature and atmospheric pressure for at least several hours and that its vapor pressure at room temperature and atmospheric pressure is not zero and is less than 10. -3 Oil with a pressure of mmHg (0.13 Pa).

[0100] Among fatty amides, N-lauroyl sarcosine isopropyl ester may be specifically mentioned, such as the product sold by Ajinomoto under the trade name Eldew SL205.

[0101] Therefore, according to a preferred embodiment, oil (ii) is lauroyl sarcosine isopropyl ester.

[0102] Preferably, the content of fatty amide is 1% to 15% by weight, particularly 2% to 12% by weight, and preferably 4% to 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0103] Oil (iii): a non-volatile substance selected from isonononate esters, synthetic ethers containing 10 to 40 carbon atoms, and / or carbonate esters. hydrocarbon-based oils

[0104] According to a preferred embodiment, oil (iii) is selected from isononanoic acid esters.

[0105] Among isononanoates, isononyl isononanoate, octyl isononanoate, isodecanyl isononanoate, isothiadecanyl isononanoate, and isostearyl isononanoate may be specifically mentioned.

[0106] Preferably, the isononyl ester isononyl isononanoate.

[0107] According to another preferred embodiment, the oil (iii) is selected from synthetic ethers containing 10 to 40 carbon atoms.

[0108] Among synthetic ethers containing 10 to 40 carbon atoms, dioctyl ethers may be specifically mentioned, such as dioctyl ether sold by Cognis under the index number Cetiol OE, or PPG-14 butyl ether.

[0109] Preferably, the synthetic ether containing 10 to 40 carbon atoms is dioctyl ether.

[0110] According to another preferred embodiment, the oil (iii) is selected from carbonates.

[0111] The carbonate may be specifically selected from dialkyl carbonates, the two alkyl chains may be the same or different, and dioctyl carbonate is preferred, for example, by Cognis under the name Cetiol. Products for sale.

[0112] Preferably, the oil (iii) is selected from isononyl isononanoate, dioctyl ether and / or dioctyl carbonate.

[0113] Preferably, the content of oil (iii) is 1% to 15% by weight, particularly 2% to 12% by weight, and preferably 4% to 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0114] Additional oil

[0115] The compositions according to the invention may also contain additional oils different from oils (i), (ii) and (iii).

[0116] These oils can be hydrocarbon-based oils, silicone oils, fluorinated oils, or non-fluorinated oils, or mixtures thereof.

[0117] Oils can be volatile and / or non-volatile. They can be of animal, plant, mineral, or synthetic origin.

[0118] The term "fluorinated oil" refers to an oil that contains at least one fluorine atom.

[0119] For the purposes of this invention, the term "silicone oil" means an oil containing at least one silicon atom and, in particular, at least one Si-O group.

[0120] Preferably, the fatty phase of the composition according to the invention comprises less than 2% by weight of silicone oil, particularly less than 1% by weight of silicone oil, preferably less than 0.5% by weight of silicone oil, and more preferably free of silicone oil.

[0121] The additional non-volatile oil may be selected in particular from non-volatile hydrocarbon oils, fluorinated oils and / or silicone oils.

[0122] Non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oils that can be specifically mentioned include:

[0123] - Hydrocarbon-based oils derived from animals,

[0124] - Straight-chain or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as petrolatum, polydecene, hydrogenated polyisobutylene such as Parleam and squalane, and mixtures thereof.

[0125] - Non-volatile alkanes, preferably with Rheomat from Lamy Rheology Viscosity at 20°C, measured by a viscometer, is less than 20 mPa·s. According to Article 2 of European Council Directive 1999 / 13 / EC of 11 March 1992, volatile organic compounds (VOCs) are defined as "any organic compound having a vapor pressure of 0.01 kPa or greater at a temperature of 293.15 K." The term "non-volatile alkanes" refers to hydrocarbon-based cosmetic oils that are liquid at room temperature, particularly at 20°C, with a vapor pressure less than 0.01 kPa. Specifically, non-volatile alkanes contain 10 to 30 carbon atoms, particularly 12 to 26 carbon atoms, more particularly 15 to 19 carbon atoms, and preferably mixtures of alkanes containing 15 to 19 carbon atoms, such as products sold by SEPPIC under the index numbers Emogreen L19 and Emosmart L19.

[0126] - Hydrocarbon oils of plant origin, such as triglycerides, which are typically triesters of fatty acids and glycerol, wherein the fatty acid chains can be 4 to 24 carbon atoms long, and these chains can be saturated or unsaturated and straight or branched; these oils are especially wheat germ oil, sunflower oil, grapeseed oil, sesame oil, corn oil, apricot oil, castor oil, shea butter, avocado oil, olive oil, soybean oil, sweet almond oil, palm oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, hazelnut oil, macadamia nut oil, jojoba oil, alfalfa oil, poppy oil, pumpkin seed oil, sesame oil, zucchini oil, rapeseed oil, blackcurrant oil, evening primrose oil, millet oil, barley oil, quinoa oil, rye oil, safflower oil, candlenut oil, passion fruit oil, and musk rose oil; or caprylic / capric triglycerides, such as those sold by Stéarinerie Dubois or those sold by Dynamit Nobel under the names Miglyol 810, 812, and 818.

[0127] - Synthetic esters, such as oils of the formula R1COOR2, where R1 represents a straight-chain or branched fatty acid residue containing 1 to 40 carbon atoms, and R2 represents a hydrocarbon chain containing 1 to 40 carbon atoms, especially having a branched structure, provided that R1+R2 is greater than or equal to 10, such as duck tail preen gland oil (cetearyl caprylate), isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, alkyl benzoates containing 12 to 15 carbon atoms, such as products sold by Witco under the trade names Finsolv TN or Witconol TN or by Evonik Goldschmidt under the trade name Tegosoft TN, 2-ethylphenyl benzoate, such as products sold by ISP under the name X-Tend 226, isopropyl lanolinate, hexyl laurate, diisopropyl adipate, oleyl erucate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isostearate isostearate, diisopropyl sebacate, such as those from Stéarinerie Products sold by Dubois under the name Dub Dis include octanoates, decanoates, or ricinoleates of alcohols or polyols, such as propylene glycol dioctanoate; hydroxylated esters, such as isostearyl lactate and diisostearyl malate; and pentaerythritol esters; citrates or tartrates, such as linear dialkyl tartrates containing 12 or 13 carbon atoms, for example those sold by Enichem Augusta Industriale under the name Cosmacol ETI, and also linear dialkyl tartrates containing 14 to 15 carbon atoms, for example those sold by the same company under the name Cosmacol ETL, and acetates.

[0128] - Polyol esters and pentaerythritol esters, such as dipentaerythritol tetrahydroxystearate / tetraisostearate,

[0129] - Fatty alcohols that are liquid at room temperature and have branched and / or unsaturated carbonyl chains containing 12 to 26 carbon atoms, such as octyldodecyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, 2-hexyldecyl alcohol, 2-butyloctanol, or 2-undecylpentadecanol.

[0130] -C 12 -C 22 Higher fatty acids, such as oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, and mixtures thereof.

[0131] And also these mixtures of various oils.

[0132] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention further comprises a non-volatile hydrocarbon base oil selected from non-volatile alkanes, and more preferably a mixture of alkanes containing at least 15 to 19 carbon atoms.

[0133] According to a preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention do not contain additional synthetic esters, and in particular do not contain isopropyl myristate.

[0134] Other fatty substances that may be present in the oil phase include, for example, fatty acids containing 8 to 30 carbon atoms, such as stearic acid, lauric acid, palmitic acid, and oleic acid; waxes, such as lanolin, beeswax, carnauba wax or candelilla wax, paraffin wax, lignite wax or microcrystalline wax, ceresin or ozokerite, and synthetic waxes, such as polyethylene wax and Fischer-Tropsch wax; silicone resins such as trifluoromethyl-C1-C4-alkyl polydimethylsiloxane and trifluoropropyl polydimethylsiloxane; and silicone elastomers, such as products sold by Shin-Etsu under the name KSG, products sold by Dow Corning under the names Trefil or BY29, or products sold by Grant Industries under the name Gransil.

[0135] Among fatty alcohol waxes, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, cinnamoyl alcohol, hexadecyl alcohol, montanol, beeswax alcohol and mixtures thereof may be mentioned.

[0136] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention is free of fatty alcohol waxes, and preferably free of cetyl alcohol.

[0137] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least N-lauroyl sarcosine isopropyl ester.

[0138] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least N-lauroyl sarcosine isopropyl ester and an oil selected from isononanoates, preferably isononanoate.

[0139] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least N-lauroyl sarcosine isopropyl ester and at least one oil selected from isononyl isononanoate, dioctyl carbonate and dioctyl ether.

[0140] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least N-lauroyl sarcosine isopropyl ester, isononyl isononanoate, and a mixture of alkanes containing 15 to 19 carbon atoms.

[0141] Preferably, the content of the non-volatile hydrocarbon oil ranges from 2% to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, particularly from 5% to 20% by weight, and more preferably from 8% to 18% by weight.

[0142] Aqueous phase

[0143] The aqueous phase contains water and an optional water-soluble solvent.

[0144] According to the present invention, the term "water-soluble solvent" means a compound that is a liquid at room temperature and miscible with water (miscible with water greater than 50% by weight at 25°C and atmospheric pressure).

[0145] The water-soluble solvents that can be used in the compositions of the present invention can also be volatile.

[0146] In water-soluble solvents that can be used with the compositions according to the invention, reference may be made to lower monools containing 1 to 5 carbon atoms, such as ethanol and isopropanol; diols containing 2 to 8 carbon atoms, such as ethylene glycol, hexanediol, propylene glycol, 1,3-butanediol; as well as glycerol, C3 and C4 ketones and C2-C4 aldehydes.

[0147] According to one embodiment variation, the aqueous phase of the composition according to the invention may contain at least one C2-C 32 Polyols.

[0148] For the purposes of this invention, the term "polyol" should be understood to mean any organic molecule that includes at least two free hydroxyl groups.

[0149] Preferably, the polyol according to the invention exists in liquid form at room temperature.

[0150] The polyols applicable to this invention can be straight-chain, branched, or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated alkyl compounds having at least two -OH functional groups on the alkyl chain, particularly at least three -OH functional groups, and more particularly at least four -OH functional groups.

[0151] Polyols suitable for formulating compositions according to the invention, particularly those containing 2 to 32 carbon atoms, preferably 3 to 16 carbon atoms.

[0152] The polyols may be selected from, for example, ethylene glycol, pentaerythritol, trimethylolpropane, dipropylene glycol, propylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, butanediol, isopentyl glycol, pentylene glycol, hexanediol, octyl glycol, glycerol, polyglycerol, such as glycerol oligomers, such as diglycerol, polyethylene glycol, and mixtures thereof.

[0153] According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the polyol is selected from 1,3-propanediol, pentanediol, glycerol, polyglycerol, polyethylene glycol and mixtures thereof.

[0154] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one polyol, and more preferably at least pentanediol.

[0155] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition of the present invention comprises at least glycerol.

[0156] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises 3% to 22% by weight of glycerol relative to the total weight of the composition, particularly 5% to 20% by weight and more preferably 8% to 17% by weight of glycerol.

[0157] Preferably, the aqueous phase is present in the composition according to the invention in an amount ranging from 30% to 90% by weight, more preferably from 35% to 88% by weight, and even more preferably from 45% to 85% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0158] surfactants

[0159] As noted above, the compositions according to the present invention comprise at least one surfactant selected from glycerides.

[0160] Preferably, the composition according to the invention may contain one or more additional surfactants other than the surfactants selected from glycerides.

[0161] Preferably, the composition according to the invention further comprises at least one gemini surfactant as an additional surfactant.

[0162] In particular, the total amount of surfactant contained in the composition according to the invention ranges from 2% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, especially from 3% to 18% by weight, and preferably from 5% to 15% by weight.

[0163] Surfactants selected from glycerides

[0164] The compositions according to the present invention contain at least one surfactant selected from glycerides.

[0165] Glycerides can be selected from C 16 -C 22Glycerides of fatty acids.

[0166] Fatty acid esters of glycerol can be obtained, in particular, from acids comprising saturated straight-chain alkyl chains containing 16 to 22 carbon atoms.

[0167] In particular, the compositions according to the invention comprise at least one glycerol ester of a fatty acid containing 18 carbon atoms, and more particularly at least one monoglyceride, diester, and / or triglyceride of a fatty acid containing 18 carbon atoms.

[0168] C, which can be mentioned in particular 18 Fatty acid glycerides include glyceryl stearate (glyceryl monostearate, glyceryl distearate and / or glyceryl tristearate) (CTFA name: glyceryl stearate) or glyceryl castor oil, or mixtures thereof.

[0169] Preferably, the fatty acid glyceride used is selected from glyceryl stearate.

[0170] Preferably, the glyceryl stearate is a product sold by Ashland under the name Cera Synt SD-ISP, or by Stéarinerie Dubois under the name DUB GMS 50 / 50.

[0171] Preferably, the glycerol monoesters, diesters and / or triesters of fatty acids containing 18 carbon atoms are present in the following amounts relative to the total weight of the composition: 1% to 5% by weight, preferably 2% to 4% by weight and more preferably 1.5% to 3% by weight.

[0172] The compositions of the present invention may also contain polyglycerol esters of fatty acids having 8 to 12 carbon atoms, via the form of glycerol esters.

[0173] For example, the following chemical products can be mentioned:

[0174] - Polyglycerol-2-decanoate: Dermosoft DGMC (Dr. Straetmans); Sunsoft Q-10D (Taiyo Kagaku Company, Ltd.);

[0175] - Polyglycerol-3-decanoate: Tegosoft PC 31 (Evonik Goldschmidt GmbH);

[0176] - Polyglycerol-4-decanoate: Glysurf 4MC (Aoki Oil Industrial Co., Ltd.); Tegosoft PC41 (Evonik Goldschmidt GmbH);

[0177] - Polyglycerol-5-decanoate: Sunsoft A-10E (Taiyo Kagaku Company, Ltd.);

[0178] - Polyglycerol-6-decanoate: Glysurf 6MC (Aoki Oil Industrial Co., Ltd.);

[0179] -Polyglyceryl-10 decanoate: Sunsoft Q-10S (Taiyo Kagaku Company, Ltd.); SY-GlysterMD-750 (Sakamoto Yakuhin Kogyo) (Celless Laboratory Co., Ltd.);

[0180] - Polyglycerol-2-octanoate;

[0181] - Polyglycerol-3-octanoate: Tegosoft PC 31 (Evonik Goldschmidt GmbH);

[0182] - Polyglycerol-4 octanoate: Glysurf 4MC (Aoki Oil Industrial Co., Ltd.), Tegosoft PC41 (Evonik Goldschmidt GmbH);

[0183] - Polyglycerol-3-octanoate: Tego Cosmo P 813 (Evonik Goldschmidt GmbH);

[0184] - Polyglycerol-4-octanoate: Resassol PG4C (Res Pharma Srl);

[0185] - Polyglycerol-6 octanoate: Caprol 6GC8 (Abitec Corporation); Dermofeel G 6CY (Dr. Straetmans); Sunsoft Q-81F (Taiyo Kagaku Company, Ltd.);

[0186] -Polyglyceryl-10 caprylate: SY-Glyster MCA-750 (Sakamoto Yakuhin Kogyo Co., Ltd.);

[0187] - Polyglycerol-4 octanoate / decanoate: NatraGem S150 (Croda Europe, Ltd.);

[0188] - Polyglycerol-6 octanoate / decanoate: Tego Cosmo P 813 (Evonik Goldschmidt GmbH);

[0189] - Polyglycerol-10 octanoate / decanoate: SY-Glyster MCA-750 (Sakamoto Yakuhin Kogyo Co., Ltd.);

[0190] - Polyglycerol-2-laurate: Dermofeel G 2L (Dr. Straetmans); DL-100 (Riken Vitamin Co., Ltd.); Sunsoft Q-12D (Taiyo Kagaku Company, Ltd.);

[0191] -Polyglyceryl-3 laurate: Hydramol TGL Ester (Lubrizol Advanced Materials, Inc.); Sunsoft A-12C (Taiyo Kagaku Company, Ltd.); Sunsoft A-121C (Taiyo Kagaku Company, Ltd.);

[0192] - Polyglycerol-4-laurate: S-Face L-401 (Sakamoto Yakuhin Kogyo Co., Ltd.); TegoCare PL 4 (Evonik Goldschmidt GmbH);

[0193] - Polyglycerol-5-laurate: Dermofeel G 5L (Dr. Straetmans); Sunsoft A-12E (Taiyo Kagaku Company, Ltd.); Sunsoft A-121E (Taiyo Kagaku Company, Ltd.);

[0194] -Polyglyceryl-6 laurate: Nikkol Decaglyn 1-L (Nikko Chemicals Co., Ltd.); S-Face L-601 (Sakamoto Yakuhin Kogyo Co., Ltd.); Sunsoft Q-12F (Taiyo KagakuCompany, Ltd);

[0195] -Polyglyceryl-10 laurate: Dermofeel G 10L (Dr.Straetmans); Nikkol Decaglyn 1-L (Nikko Chemicals Co., Ltd.); Nikkol Decaglyn 1-LV EX (Nikko Chemicals Co., Ltd.); S-Face L-1001 (Sakamoto Yakuhin Kogyo Co., Ltd.); Sunsoft M-12J (Taiyo Kagaku Company, Ltd); Sunsoft Q-12S (Taiyo Kagaku Company, Ltd).

[0196] Polyglycerol-10 laurate deserves special mention.

[0197] As esters of glycerol and fatty acids, mixtures based on glyceryl stearate can also be mentioned, such as mixtures of glyceryl stearate and polyethylene glycol 100OE monostearate, and particularly those containing 50 / 50 mixtures, produced by Croda under the name Arlacel. Products sold by Goldschmidt, or containing glyceryl stearate (glyceryl monodistearate) and potassium stearate, under the name of [name omitted]. For Sale (CTFA Name: Glyceryl Stearate SE).

[0198] According to a preferred embodiment, the surfactant selected from glycerides is selected from glycerol monoesters, diesters and / or triesters of fatty acids containing 18 carbon atoms, and is preferably glyceryl stearate.

[0199] Surfactants selected from glycerides may be present in the composition in an amount ranging from 0.5% to 5% by weight, and preferably from 1% to 4% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0200] Additional surfactants

[0201] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one additional surfactant.

[0202] Additional surfactants may be selected from nonionic, anionic, cationic, and amphoteric surfactants, and mixtures thereof. For definitions of the emulsifying properties and functions of surfactants, refer to Kirk-Othmer's Encyclopaedia of Chemical Technology, Vol. 22, pp. 333-432, 3rd edition, 1979, Wiley, particularly pages 347-377 of that reference on anionic, amphoteric, and nonionic surfactants.

[0203] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention may comprise at least one gemini surfactant of formula (A) or a stereoisomer thereof:

[0204] [Chem 2]

[0205]

[0206] in:

[0207] -Y' independently represents a carboxylic acid group or an alkali metal salt of a carboxylic acid group, particularly a sodium salt of a carboxylic acid group.

[0208] -j1, k1, j2, and k2 represent integers such that (j1, k1, j2, k2) = (2, 0, 2, 0), (2, 0, 0, 2), (0, 2, 2, 0), or (0, 2, 0, 2).

[0209] -l represents an integer in the range of 6 to 16, preferably 8 to 14 and more preferably 10 to 12.

[0210] According to a particular embodiment of the present invention, in formula (A), l represents an integer in the range of 8-12, j1=j2=0, and k1=k2=2.

[0211] Preferably, in formula (A), Y' represents -COONa, j1=j2=0, k1=k2=2, and l=10.

[0212] Examples of gemini surfactants of formula (A) that may be mentioned include sodium dilauramidyl glutamine lysine, sodium dimyristicyl glutamine lysine, and sodium distearate glutamine lysine.

[0213] Preferably, the gemini surfactant of chemical formula (A) is sodium dilauramidylglutamine lysine.

[0214] Sodium dilauramidylglutamine lysine is sold by Asahi Kasei Chemicals under the names Pellicer L-30 and Pellicer LB-10.

[0215] Gemini surfactants of formula (A) are particularly described in patent application WO 2004 / 020394.

[0216] The gemini surfactant of formula (A) may be present in the composition in an amount of active material ranging from 0.01% to 1% by weight, and preferably from 0.01% to 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0217] In particular, the compositions according to the invention may also contain at least one hydrophilic surfactant selected from the following: monoesters, diesters or triesters of sucrose and fatty acids (such as stearic acid) containing 12 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 14 to 20 carbon atoms, especially sucrose tristearate, sucrose distearate and mixtures thereof.

[0218] Preferably, the composition according to the invention further comprises at least one hydrophilic surfactant selected from stearic acid, sucrose tristearate, and mixtures thereof. More preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises stearic acid and sucrose tristearate.

[0219] Lipophilic surfactants selected from sucrose and fatty acids containing 12 to 30 carbon atoms, including monoesters, diesters and triesters, may be present in the composition in an amount ranging from 0.5% to 5% by weight, and preferably from 1.5% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0220] The compositions according to the invention may further comprise at least one additional nonionic surfactant, unlike glycerol esters, and particularly selected from polyols and esters of fatty acids having saturated or unsaturated chains (e.g., comprising 8 to 24 carbon atoms and more preferably 12 to 22 carbon atoms), and their oxy-olefinized derivatives, i.e., comprising oxyethylene and / or oxypropylene units, particularly selected from polyethylene glycol and C8-C... 24 Fatty acid esters and their oxy-olefinated derivatives; sorbitol and C8-C 24 Fatty acid esters and their oxy-olefinated derivatives; fatty alcohol ethers; sugars and C8-C... 24 Fatty acid esters; sugars and C8-C 24 Ethers of fatty alcohols; and mixtures thereof.

[0221] Polyethylene glycol esters of fatty acids that may be particularly mentioned include polyethylene glycol stearates (polyethylene glycol monostearate, distearate, and / or tristearate), and more particularly polyethylene glycol 40OE monostearate (CTFA name: PEG-40 stearate), polyethylene glycol 50OE monostearate (CTFA name: PEG-50 stearate), polyethylene glycol 100OE monostearate (CTFA name: PEG-100 stearate), and mixtures thereof. More specifically, polyethylene glycol 40OE monostearate (CTFA name: PEG-40 stearate) may be mentioned.

[0222] A hydrophilic surfactant selected from polyethylene glycol and fatty acid esters may be present in the composition in an amount ranging from 0.5% to 5% by weight, and preferably from 1.5% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0223] filler

[0224] As previously noted, the compositions according to the invention comprise at least one filler selected from amino acid powders and solid cellulose beads.

[0225] The term "filler" should be understood to mean any colorless or white, mineral or synthetic particulate material of any shape that is insoluble in the medium of the composition, regardless of the temperature at which the composition is manufactured.

[0226] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises the following as fillers: at least lauroyl lysine powder, optionally combined with boron nitride, or at least solid cellulose beads.

[0227] Preferably, the total content of filler contained in the composition according to the invention, relative to the total weight of the composition, ranges from 1% to 10% by weight, particularly from 2% to 5% by weight, and most preferably from 2% to 3% by weight.

[0228] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least amino acid powder as a filler.

[0229] Preferably, the amino acid powder is lauroyl lysine powder. Such fillers are particularly popular from Ajinomoto under the name Amihope. Or it may be sold by Corum under the name Corum 5105S.

[0230] The amino acid powder, and preferably lauroyl lysine, may be present in the composition according to the invention in an amount ranging from 1% to 3% by weight, more preferably from 1.5% to 2.5% by weight, and even more preferably from 1.8% to 2.2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0231] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention contains only amino acid powder as a filler, and preferably only lauroyl lysine.

[0232] According to another preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises amino acid powder as a filler, and preferably a combination of lauroyl lysine and boron nitride.

[0233] Boron nitride preferably has a number-average primary size of 1 to 50 μm, more preferably 1 to 30 μm, more preferably 1 to 25 μm, and even more preferably 1 to 10 μm.

[0234] For the purposes of this invention, the term "primary particle size" refers to the largest size that can be measured between two points opposite each other on two diameters of a single particle. The size can be determined, for example, by transmission electron microscopy or by measuring the specific surface area via the BET method or using a laser particle size analyzer.

[0235] As commercially available boron nitrides that can be used in the compositions according to the invention, particular references are made to boron nitrides sold by Saint Gobain Ceramics, especially those sold under the names PUHP3002, PUHP3008 or PUHP1030L, or Softouch BN CC6058 Powder from Momentive Performance Materials.

[0236] Boron nitride may preferably be present in the composition according to the invention in an amount ranging from 0.3% to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, more preferably in an amount ranging from 0.2% to 0.8% by weight, and even more preferably in an amount ranging from 0.4% to 0.6% by weight.

[0237] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least solid cellulose beads as a filler.

[0238] Solid cellulose beads are spherical cellulose microparticles whose particle size is expressed as particle volume-average diameter D[4,3], ranging from 0.1 to 35 μm, preferably from 1 to 20 μm and more particularly from 8 to 15 μm.

[0239] As an example of spherical cellulose microparticles, one may particularly mention the solid cellulose beads sold by Daito Kasei Kogyo under the names Cellulobeads D-10, Cellulobeads D-5, and Cellulobeads USF.

[0240] Preferably, the solid cellulose beads are expressed as particle volume-average diameter D[4,3] greater than 8 μm and more preferably in the range of 8 to 15 μm.

[0241] Solid cellulose beads may be present in the composition according to the invention in an amount ranging from 1% to 4% by weight, more preferably from 1.5% to 3.5% by weight, and even more preferably from 1.8% to 3.2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0242] The compositions according to the invention may also contain additional fillers, particularly organic fillers and / or mineral fillers.

[0243] In this patent application, the term "organic filler" means any organic solid that is insoluble in the medium at room temperature (25°C). The term "organic" means any compound or polymer whose chemical structure contains at least one or more carbon atoms.

[0244] As an organic filler that can be used in the anhydrous composite material of the present invention, examples such as polyamides may be mentioned. Particles, polyethylene powder, acrylic copolymer-based microspheres, poly(methyl methacrylate) microspheres, ethylene / acrylate copolymer powders, expanded powders such as hollow microspheres, powders of natural organic materials such as polysaccharide powders, silicone resin microbeads, wax microdispersed particles, and mixtures thereof.

[0245] In this patent application, the term "mineral filler" refers to any mineral solid that is insoluble in the medium at room temperature (25°C). The term "mineral" refers to any compound or polymer whose chemical structure does not contain any carbon atoms.

[0246] Mineral fillers that may be mentioned include porous spherical silica particles, porous silica microspheres, zeolite, calcium magnesium carbonate, layered mineral particles such as talc, mica, mother-of-pearl or perlite particles, especially expanded perlite particles.

[0247] Additional surfactants

[0248] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention contains, in addition to ascorbic acid or a derivative thereof, at least one additional cosmetic active agent, particularly at least two additional cosmetic active agents and preferably at least three additional cosmetic active agents.

[0249] The additional surfactant can be selected, in particular, from:

[0250] - Vitamins and their derivatives, especially their esters, such as tocopherol (vitamin E) and its esters (e.g., tocopherol acetate),

[0251] - Moisturizers, such as urea, hydroxyurea, glycerin, polyglycerol, glyceryl glucoside, diglyceryl glucoside, polyglyceryl glucoside and xylitol glucoside, and especially glycerin;

[0252] -C-glycoside compounds, with hydroxypropyltetrahydropyranotriol being preferred;

[0253] - Antioxidant compounds;

[0254] - Anti-aging active agents, such as hyaluronic acid compounds, and especially sodium hyaluronate, salicylic acid compounds, adenosine, C-β-D-xylanopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane and sodium (3-hydroxy-2-pentylcyclopentyl)acetate; and

[0255] - Its mixture.

[0256] In particular, the added cosmetic surfactant can be at least one hydrophilic surfactant.

[0257] The term "hydrophilic surfactant" refers to a water-soluble or water-dispersible surfactant that can form hydrogen bonds.

[0258] Examples of hydrophilic surfactants include humectants, decolorizing agents, peeling agents, moisturizers, anti-aging agents, oil-controlling agents, healing agents, antibacterial agents, and mixtures thereof.

[0259] C-glycosides

[0260] In particular, the compositions according to the invention may contain at least one additional cosmetic active agent selected from C-glycoside compounds, especially compounds having the following formula:

[0261] [Chem 3]

[0262]

[0263] in:

[0264] -R indicates an unsubstituted straight-chain C1-C4 and especially C1-C2 alkyl group, particularly methyl;

[0265] -S indicates a monosaccharide selected from D-glucose, D-xylose, N-acetyl-D-glucosamine and L-fucose, and especially D-xylose;

[0266] -X represents a group selected from -CO-, -CH(OH)- and -CH(NH2)-, with preference given to the -CH(OH)- group;

[0267] And also its cosmetically acceptable salts, its solvates such as hydrates and their optical isomers.

[0268] As a non-limiting example of C-glycosides that are more particularly applicable to the present invention, the following compounds may be mentioned in particular:

[0269] -C-β-D-xylanopyranoside-n-propion-2-one;

[0270] -C-α-D-xylanopyranoside-n-propion-2-one;

[0271] -C-β-D-xylanopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane;

[0272] -C-α-D-xylanopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane;

[0273] -1-(C-β-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-hydroxypropane;

[0274] -1-(C-α-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-hydroxypropane;

[0275] -1-(C-β-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-aminopropane;

[0276] -1-(C-α-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-aminopropane;

[0277] -3'-(acetamido-C-β-D-glucopyranosyl)prop-2'-one;

[0278] -3'-(acetamido-C-α-D-glucopyranosyl)prop-2'-one;

[0279] -1-(acetamido-C-β-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-hydroxypropane;

[0280] -1-(acetamido-C-β-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-aminopropane;

[0281] And also its cosmetically acceptable salts, its solvates such as hydrates and their optical isomers.

[0282] According to a particular implementation, C-β-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane or C-α-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane may be used, more preferably C-β-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane.

[0283] According to a particular embodiment, the C-glycoside of the above formula applicable to the present invention can preferably be C-β-D-xylanopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane, whose INCI name is hydroxypropyltetrahydropyranotriol, especially by Chimex under the name Mexoryl or Mexoryl sell.

[0284] C-glycoside salts applicable to the present invention may include conventionally physiologically acceptable salts of these compounds, such as those formed from organic or inorganic acids.

[0285] Examples that may be mentioned include inorganic acid salts, such as sulfuric acid, hydrochloric acid, hydrobromic acid, hydroiodic acid, phosphoric acid, and boric acid. Salts of organic acids may also be mentioned, which may include one or more carboxylic acid, sulfonic acid, or phosphonic acid groups. These may be straight-chain, branched, or cyclic fatty acids, or alternatively, aromatic acids. These acids may also include one or more heteroatoms selected from O and N, for example, in the form of a hydroxyl group. Propionic acid, acetic acid, terephthalic acid, citric acid, and tartaric acid may be mentioned in particular.

[0286] Acceptable solvates for the above-mentioned compounds include conventional solvates, such as those formed during the final step of the preparation of the compounds due to the presence of a solvent. Examples that may be mentioned include solvates generated due to the presence of water or straight-chain or branched alcohols such as ethanol or isopropanol.

[0287] C-glycosides with the above formula are known from WO 02 / 051828.

[0288] According to one embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises an amount of C-glycoside ranging from 0.05 wt% to 14 wt% of active material relative to the total weight of the composition, particularly ranging from 0.05 wt% to 12 wt% of active material relative to the total weight of the composition, and more specifically ranging from 1 wt% to 10 wt% of active material relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0289] Salicylic acid compounds

[0290] According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention may contain at least one additional cosmetic active agent selected from salicylic acid compounds.

[0291] The salicylic acid compound present in the composition according to the invention may be selected from salicylic acid and a compound of the following formula:

[0292] [Chem 4]

[0293]

[0294] in:

[0295] - Group R represents a straight-chain, branched, or cyclic saturated aliphatic chain containing 2 to 22 carbon atoms; an unsaturated chain containing 2 to 22 carbon atoms, containing one or more double bonds, which may be conjugated; an aromatic nucleus directly or via a saturated or unsaturated aliphatic chain containing 2 to 7 carbon atoms connected to a carbonyl group; said group may be substituted by one or more substituents, which may be the same or different, said substituents being selected from (a) a halogen atom, (b) a trifluoromethyl group, (c) a free hydroxyl group or esterified with a hydroxyl group containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms, or (d) a free carboxyl functional group or esterified with a lower alcohol containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms;

[0296] -R' is a hydroxyl group;

[0297] And its salts derived from inorganic or organic bases.

[0298] Specifically, group R represents a straight-chain, branched, or cyclic saturated aliphatic chain containing 3 to 11 carbon atoms; an unsaturated chain containing 3 to 17 carbon atoms and comprising one or more conjugated or non-conjugated double bonds; the hydrocarbon chain may be substituted by one or more substituents that may be the same or different, the substituents being selected from (a) halogen atoms, (b) trifluoromethyl groups, (c) free or esterified hydroxyl groups containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms, or (d) free or esterified carboxyl functional groups containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms; and salts obtained by salting with inorganic or organic bases.

[0299] It can be specifically mentioned that the group R is C3-C. 11 Compounds with alkyl groups.

[0300] Among salicylic acid compounds, 5-octanoyl salicylic acid (or capryloyl salicylic acid), 5-decanoyl salicylic acid, 5-dodecanoyl salicylic acid, 5-heptanoyl salicylic acid and their corresponding salts may be specifically mentioned.

[0301] The salicylic acid compound may be selected in particular from salicylic acid and 5-n-octanoylsalicylic acid, and for example 5-n-octanoylsalicylic acid.

[0302] Salts of compounds having the above formula can be obtained by salting with an inorganic or organic base. Examples of inorganic bases that may be mentioned include alkali metal or alkaline earth metal hydroxides, such as sodium hydroxide or potassium hydroxide, or ammonia.

[0303] Among organic bases, amines and alkanolamines may be mentioned. Quaternary salts, such as those described in patent FR 2 607 498, are particularly advantageous.

[0304] Compounds having the above formulas that can be used according to the present invention are described in patents US 6 159 479 and US 5 558871, FR 2 581 542, FR 2 607 498, US 4 767 750, EP 378 936, US 5 267 407, US 5 667789, US 5 580 549 and EP-A-570 230.

[0305] According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one salicylic acid compound in an amount ranging from 0.05% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, particularly from 0.1% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and more particularly from 0.2% to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0306] Hyaluronic acid

[0307] In particular, the compositions according to the invention may contain at least one additional cosmetic active agent selected from hyaluronic acid or its derivatives.

[0308] In the context of this invention, the term "hyaluronic acid or a derivative thereof" particularly covers the basic unit of hyaluronic acid having the following formula:

[0309] [Chem 5]

[0310]

[0311] This is the smallest fraction of hyaluronic acid, containing disaccharide dimers, namely D-glucuronic acid and N-acetylglucosamine.

[0312] The term "hyaluronic acid or a derivative thereof" in the context of this invention also includes linear polymers comprising the aforementioned polymeric units linked in an alternating sequence of β(1,4) and β(1,3) glycosidic bonds and having a molecular weight (MW) ranging from 380 to 13,000,000 Daltons. This molecular weight depends primarily on the source and / or method of preparation of the hyaluronic acid.

[0313] In the context of this invention, the term "hyaluronic acid or its derivatives" also includes hyaluronic acid salts, and especially alkali metal salts such as sodium and potassium salts.

[0314] In its natural state, hyaluronic acid exists in pericellular gels, the matrix of connective tissues in vertebrate organs such as the dermis and epithelial tissues, and especially in the epidermis, synovial fluid, vitreous fluid, human umbilical cord, and cristagalli apophysis.

[0315] Therefore, the term "hyaluronic acid or its derivatives" includes all hyaluronic acid fractions or subunits having molecular weights, particularly within the aforementioned molecular weight range.

[0316] In the context of this invention, it is preferred to use hyaluronic acid fractions that do not have any inflammatory activity.

[0317] For an explanation of the various hyaluronic acid fractions, please refer to the literature Hyaluronan fragments: an information-rich system, R. Stern et al., European Journal of Cell Biology 58(2006)699-715, which reviews the changes in the listed bioactivities of hyaluronic acid with changes in molecular weight.

[0318] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the hyaluronic acid fraction suitable for the intended application of the invention has a molecular weight of 50,000 to 5,000,000, particularly 100,000 to 5,000,000, especially 400,000 to 5,000,000 Da. In this case, it is a high molecular weight hyaluronic acid.

[0319] Alternatively, the hyaluronic acid fraction intended for the application of this invention may also be applicable, having a molecular weight of 50,000 to 400,000 Da. In this case, it is a medium molecular weight hyaluronic acid.

[0320] Alternatively, the hyaluronic acid fraction suitable for the intended application of this invention may have a molecular weight of less than 50,000 Da. In this case, it is a low molecular weight hyaluronic acid.

[0321] According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention does not contain low molecular weight hyaluronic acid.

[0322] Finally, the term "hyaluronic acid or its derivatives" also includes hyaluronic acid esters, especially those in which all or part of the carboxyl groups of the acid functional group are esterified by an alkyl or oxyethylene alcohol comprising 1 to 20 carbon atoms, particularly hyaluronic acid esters in which the degree of substitution of D-glucuronic acid ranges from 0.5% to 50%.

[0323] Methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, n-pentyl, benzyl, and dodecyl esters of hyaluronic acid are particularly noteworthy. These esters have been described in particular in D. Campoccia et al., “Semisynthetic resorbable materials from hyaluronanesterification”, Biomaterials 19(1998)2101-2127.

[0324] The molecular weights mentioned above also apply to hyaluronic acid esters.

[0325] Hyaluronic acid is available, in particular, from Hyactive under the trade name CPN (MW: 10 to 150 kDa) and from Soliance under the trade name Cristalhyal (MW: 1.1 × 10⁻⁶ kDa). 6 It is sold by Bioland under the name Nutra HA (MW: 820,000Da), by Bioland under the name Nutra AF (MW: 69,000Da), by Bioland under the name Oligo HA (MW: 6,100Da), or by Vam Farma Cosmetica under the name D Factor (MW: 380Da).

[0326] In one embodiment, the hyaluronic acid is in the form of spheres. Specifically, such spheres are sold by BASF under the name Hyaluronic Acid Spheres. These are available in different molecular weights (i.e., MW 1.5 × 10⁻⁶). 6 A mixture of hyaluronic acid (400,000 and 600,000 Da).

[0327] Sodium hyaluronate is preferred.

[0328] Hyaluronic acid or its derivatives may be present in the composition according to the invention in the following amounts relative to the total weight of the composition: ranging from 0.01 wt% to 5 wt%, preferably from 0.1 wt% to 3 wt%, and more particularly from 0.2 wt% to 1 wt%.

[0329] According to a preferred embodiment, the additional active agent is selected from moisturizers, preferably glycerin; C-glycoside compounds, and more preferably hydroxypropyltetrahydropyranotriol; hyaluronic acid compounds, and especially sodium hyaluronate; and mixtures thereof.

[0330] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one moisturizer, preferably glycerin; a C-glycoside compound, preferably hydroxypropyltetrahydropyranotriol; and a hyaluronic acid compound, especially sodium hyaluronate.

[0331] The compositions according to the invention may contain 5% to 15% by weight of an additional active agent relative to the total weight of the composition, and preferably 8% to 12% by weight of the additional active agent.

[0332] It should be understood that these contents do not include glycerin, which may be present.

[0333] Specifically, as noted above, the compositions according to the invention may also contain 3% to 22% by weight of glycerol relative to the total weight of the composition, particularly 5% to 20% by weight and more preferably 6% to 17% by weight of glycerol.

[0334] additive

[0335] The compositions according to the invention may further comprise at least one additive selected from the following: auxiliaries commonly used in the cosmetic field, such as preservatives (e.g., hydroxyacetone), fragrances, dyes, polar additives, film-forming polymers, pH adjusters (acids or bases) (e.g., citric acid, tartaric acid, or oxalic acid), chelating agents, cosmetic actives, such as healing agents, anti-oily skin agents, and / or anti-pollution agents, and mixtures thereof.

[0336] Needless to say, those skilled in the art will take care to select such or such optional additional compounds and / or their amounts so that the advantageous properties of the compositions according to the invention are not or substantially not adversely affected by the intended addition.

[0337] As mentioned above, the compositions according to the invention preferably do not contain compounds that may be harmful to humans and / or the environment, i.e., they contain less than 0.01% by weight or even do not contain compounds that may be harmful to humans and / or the environment.

[0338] Therefore, the compositions according to the invention are particularly free of silicone compounds and / or ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA) and / or parabens, and preferably free of silicone compounds, EDTA and parabens.

[0339] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one chelating agent, preferably at least one ethylenediamine disuccinate.

[0340] Composition

[0341] As previously stated, the compositions according to the invention can be cosmetic and / or dermatological, and are preferably cosmetic.

[0342] The compositions according to the invention are generally suitable for topical application to the skin and therefore generally contain a physiologically acceptable medium, i.e., a skin-compatible medium.

[0343] It is preferably a cosmetically acceptable medium, that is, a medium with a pleasant color, smell and feel, and that does not cause any unacceptable discomfort (i.e., stinging, tightness or redness, or easily prevents the user from applying the composition).

[0344] The cosmetic compositions according to the invention can be in any presentation form conventionally used in the cosmetic field for intended application, particularly for local application.

[0345] For topical application of keratin materials, particularly to the skin or its epidermis, the compositions may be in the following forms: aqueous or oily solutions or dispersions of the type of emulsion or serum; liquid or semi-liquid consistency emulsions of the emulsion type (obtained by dispersing a fat phase in an aqueous phase (oil-in-water) or vice versa (water-in-oil)); or soft-viscosity suspensions or emulsions of the type of aqueous or anhydrous gel or cream; or other microcapsules or microparticles; or vesicle dispersions of the type of ionic and / or nonionic. These compositions are prepared according to conventional methods.

[0346] Preferably, the composition according to the invention is in the form of an oil-in-water (O / W) emulsion or an oil-in-water emulsion gel.

[0347] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention is in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion gel.

[0348] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention is in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion.

[0349] In particular, the compositions according to the invention have a pH range of 3 to 8. Preferably, the pH range of the compositions is 4 to 7, or even 4 to 6.5.

[0350] Therefore, according to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one pH-adjusting compound, such as sodium hydroxide and / or potassium hydroxide.

[0351] The compositions according to the present invention can be prepared according to techniques known to those skilled in the art.

[0352] Intended use of the composition

[0353] The compositions according to the invention can be in the form of cosmetic compositions for the care and / or makeup of keratin materials, preferably cosmetic compositions for the care of keratin materials, particularly for the body or face, preferably for the face.

[0354] These compositions can form creams for cleansing, protecting, treating, or caring for the face, hands, or body, such as day creams, night creams, cosmetic creams, foundation creams, sunscreens, liquid foundations, protective or caring body lotions, sunscreens, moisturizers, or foaming products.

[0355] Therefore, the compositions according to the invention can be used as facial and / or body care products and / or sun protection products having a liquid to semi-liquid consistency, such as oils, lotions, emulsions, or more or less smooth creams or gel-creams.

[0356] Preferably, the composition according to the invention is in the form of a composition for caring for keratin materials, particularly for the skin of the body or face, preferably the skin of the face.

[0357] In particular, the compositions of the present invention may be in the form of anti-aging care compositions for use on the skin of the body or face, especially the skin of the face.

[0358] According to another embodiment, the composition of the present invention may be in the form of a composition for cosmetic keratin materials, particularly keratin materials for the body or face, preferably facial keratin materials.

[0359] Therefore, according to this sub-model of the embodiment, the composition of the present invention can be in the form of a cosmetic base composition for use in makeup. The composition of the present invention can, in particular, be in the form of a foundation.

[0360] According to another sub-model of this embodiment, the composition of the present invention can be in the form of a lip product, especially a lipstick.

[0361] According to another sub-model of this embodiment, the composition of the present invention can be in the form of a product for eyebrows, particularly an eyebrow pencil.

[0362] Such compositions are prepared, in particular, based on the general knowledge of those skilled in the art.

[0363] Therefore, the present invention also relates to the use of the compositions according to the invention for the care and / or cosmetic keratin materials, preferably for the care of keratin materials, particularly for body and / or facial skin.

[0364] The present invention also relates to a cosmetic method for cosmetic and / or care of keratin materials, particularly skin and / or lips, comprising at least one step of applying a composition as defined above to said keratin material.

[0365] Preferably, the present invention also relates to a cosmetic method for caring for keratin materials, particularly skin and / or lips, comprising at least one step of applying a composition as defined above to said keratin material.

[0366] In particular, the compositions according to the invention can be used to combat signs of skin aging.

[0367] Therefore, this patent application also relates to the use of the composition according to the invention for combating signs of skin aging.

[0368] The composition can be applied to the skin by hand or with an applicator.

[0369] In the specification, including the claims, unless otherwise stated, the expression "comprising / including one" shall be understood to be synonymous with "comprising / including at least one".

[0370] Unless otherwise stated, expressions such as “between ... and ...”, “includes from ... to ...”, “forms from ... to ...”, and “ranges from ... to ...” should be understood as including limits.

[0371] The present invention is described in more detail through the following embodiments. Unless otherwise stated, all quantities shown are expressed as a percentage by mass.

[0372] Example

[0373] Measurement and evaluation methods

[0374] Centrifugation

[0375] The stability of the composition was evaluated using a Thermo Scientific centrifuge at 3500 rpm for 1 hour at T = 24 hours, according to the following protocol. Observations of phase separation, leaching, or changes in appearance were examined.

[0376] Stability measurement

[0377] The stability of the composition was evaluated at different times and under the following conditions: at room temperature (25°C) for T = 24 hours. It could also be evaluated by storing the obtained composition at 55°C for 15 days, and at 4°C, room temperature (25°C), 37°C, and 45°C for T = 1 month and T = 2 months. Observations of phase separation, leaching, or changes in appearance were examined.

[0378] Viscosity measurement

[0379] The viscosity of the formulation can be measured using a Rheomat RM 200 rheometer from Lamy Rheology with a No. 4 rotor at 200 rpm at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). Values ​​are recorded at T = 30 seconds, T = 10 minutes, and T = 24 hours.

[0380] Soap Review

[0381] To evaluate the soap washing phenomenon, a classification system was established for soap washing and soap-free washing.

[0382] Using the M50 micropipette kit, take 50 μL of the product to be evaluated, so that you can provide 50 μL (marked as 500 on the pipette). Apply the product to half of the back of your hand and rub it quickly with your index and middle fingers for 5 seconds.

[0383] During the application of the cream, the soap wash during the massage process causes the formation of fine foam / a white film when the application is complete.

[0384] Then, during this vigorous massage, the "soap wash" is visually evaluated by observing the whitening on the back of the hand.

[0385] For the rating, "1" indicates that soap was used and "0" indicates that soap was not used.

[0386] Viscosity evaluation

[0387] The viscosity of the deposits produced by the formulations was also evaluated according to the following protocol: each composition was applied to the skin to form a deposit of uniform thickness.

[0388] Adhesive properties were evaluated by an individual immediately after application and during the drying process of the formulation, 2 minutes after application at room temperature (25°C). The product's tackiness was assessed based on its adhesion to the back of the hand.

[0389] Specifically, for immediate evaluation after application, the product's stickiness is assessed by touch. This standard involves placing the back of the hand receiving the product against the cheek and then removing it from the cheek a maximum of two times. This evaluation is conducted after a cooling gesture, absorption speed, and a feeling of oiliness on the fingers, which corresponds to 15 seconds after application to the face.

[0390] For evaluation 2 minutes after application, the product's stickiness is assessed by touch. The standard also evaluates the product by placing the back of the hand receiving the product against the cheek and then removing it.

[0391] The stickiness rating is from 1 to 5. Non-sticky exposed skin is rated as "1", and highly sticky skin is rated as "5".

[0392] Compositions deemed compliant are rated on a scale of 1 to 3.75. Compositions rated on a scale of 3.75 to 5 are considered non-compliant.

[0393] Softness rating

[0394] Evaluate softness during and after applying the product to the hands.

[0395] Apply 50 μL of product and make circular motions on the back of your hand. The gestures must be consistent, and your fingers must glide rather than drag as they pass over the top of your hand. At the end of the application, the skin must feel soft and free of bumps.

[0396] Softness is rated from 1 to 5. Exposed skin is rated "3".

[0397] Compositions are considered to be compliant with the requirements if they are rated 3 to 5, and compositions are considered to be non-compliant if they are rated 1 to 3.

[0398] Example 1: Compositions 1 to 4 according to the present invention

[0399] The facial anti-aging care compositions 1 to 4, in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion according to the present invention, are prepared in the weight proportions described in detail in the table below. The values ​​are expressed as weight percentages relative to the total weight of the compositions.

[0400] [Table 1]

[0401]

[0402] Table 1

[0403] Scheme for preparing the composition

[0404] The composition was prepared using Olsa's Maxilab, which is equipped with external and internal blades and emulsification equipment.

[0405] Under cold conditions, weigh the A-phase compound into the main container. Disperse the compound until a homogeneous mixture is obtained (emulsification equipment at 300 rpm, outer blade at 70 rpm, and inner blade at 100 rpm). While stirring, aspirate the starting material of the B-phase.

[0406] Disperse the mixture until a homogeneous, lumpy, and particle-free mixture is obtained (1200 rpm for the emulsifier, 100 rpm for the outer blade, and 250 rpm for the inner blade, for 15 to 20 minutes).

[0407] Simultaneously, prepare phase C in a beaker, heat to 70-75°C, and stir with a magnetic rod until a clear, colorless phase is obtained. While stirring, slowly and evenly aspirate phase C (using an emulsification device at 2800 rpm, outer blade at 120 rpm, and inner blade at 250 rpm, for 10 minutes). Disperse the mixture until a satisfactory emulsion is obtained.

[0408] After homogenization, the mixture is cooled to 15 to 20°C.

[0409] The D-phase compound was premixed and added to the production container (emulsification equipment at 1800 rpm, outer blade at 100 rpm, inner blade at 120 rpm, for 10 minutes).

[0410] Phase F is prepared in advance by stirring with a magnetic rod and aspirating while stirring (emulsification equipment at 1800 rpm, outer blade at 100 rpm, inner blade at 120 rpm, for 10 minutes).

[0411] At the end of production, add phase E (emulsification equipment at 1800 rpm, outer blade at 100 rpm, inner blade at 120 rpm, for 10 minutes).

[0412] Example 2: Compositions 5 and 6 according to the present invention

[0413] The facial anti-aging care compositions 5 to 6 in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion according to the present invention were prepared in the weight proportions described in detail in the table below, as indicated in Example 1. Values ​​are expressed as weight percentages relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0414] [Table 2]

[0415]

[0416] Table 2

[0417] Example 3: Compositions 7 to 9 according to the present invention

[0418] The facial anti-aging care compositions 7 to 9 in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion according to the present invention are prepared according to the weight ratios described in detail in the table below, as indicated in Example 1. Values ​​are expressed as weight percentages relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0419] [Table 3]

[0420]

[0421] Table 3

[0422] Example 4: Compositions 10 to 13 according to the present invention

[0423] The facial anti-aging care compositions of the present invention, in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, 10 to 13, were prepared according to the weight ratios described in detail in the table below, as indicated in Example 1. Values ​​are expressed as weight percentages relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0424] [Table 4]

[0425]

[0426] Table 4

[0427] Example 5: Compositions 14 and 15 other than those of the present invention

[0428] Facial anti-aging care compositions 14 to 15, in the form of water-in-oil emulsions other than those described in this invention, were prepared according to the weight ratios detailed in the table below, as indicated in Example 1. Comparative composition 14 does not contain any surfactants selected from glycerides, or any fillers selected from amino acid powders and solid cellulose beads. Comparative composition 15 does not contain any fillers selected from amino acid powders and solid cellulose beads. Values ​​are expressed as a weight percentage relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0429] [Table 5]

[0430]

[0431] Table 5

[0432] Example 6: Compositions 16 and 17 other than those of the present invention

[0433] Facial anti-aging care compositions 16 and 17, in the form of water-in-oil emulsions other than those of this invention, were prepared according to the weight ratios described in detail in the table below, as indicated in Example 1. Comparative compositions 16 and 17 contain isopropyl myristate or undecane(and)tridecane instead of nonvolatile hydrocarbon oils selected from isononanoates, synthetic ethers containing 10 to 40 carbon atoms, and / or carbonates. Values ​​are expressed as a weight percentage relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0434] [Table 6]

[0435]

[0436] Table 6

[0437] Example 7: Compositions 18 to 21 other than those of the present invention

[0438] Facial anti-aging care compositions 18 to 21, in the form of water-in-oil emulsions other than those of the present invention, were prepared according to the weight ratios described in detail in the table below, as indicated in Example 1. Comparative compositions 18 to 21 contain boron nitride or silica instead of fillers selected from amino acid powders and solid cellulose beads. Values ​​are expressed as a weight percentage relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0439] [Table 7]

[0440]

[0441] Table 7

[0442] Example 8: Results

[0443] The stability and sensory properties of all compositions were tested according to the methods described in the "Measurement and Evaluation Methods" section.

[0444] The results are detailed below.

[0445] Compositions 1 to 13 according to the present invention and compositions 15 to 21 outside the present invention are stable.

[0446] Composition 14, which is not part of this invention and does not contain any surfactant selected from glycerides or any filler selected from amino acid powders and solid cellulose beads, is unstable. It clumps after being stored at 45°C for two months. Furthermore, it turns brown and exhibits considerable viscosity loss. Additionally, composition 14, which is not part of this invention, shows significant soaping.

[0447] Compositions 1 to 13 according to the invention do not produce a soaping effect and have better sensory properties than compositions 14 to 21 outside the invention. They are soft and smooth.

[0448] They have much less shine and stickiness than compositions 14 to 21 outside of this invention.

[0449] Furthermore, they have a softer and lighter finish than compositions 14 to 21 outside of this invention.

Claims

1. A composition comprising: - At least one aqueous phase, said aqueous phase being gelled with a mixture of at least 1.5% by weight of crosslinked acrylic homopolymer and 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid homopolymer relative to the total weight of said composition; - At least one fatty phase, said fatty phase comprising at least (i) a volatile hydrocarbon oil, (ii) a non-volatile hydrocarbon oil selected from fatty amides, and (iii) a non-volatile hydrocarbon oil selected from isononanoates, synthetic ethers containing 10 to 40 carbon atoms, and / or carbonates. - At least one surfactant selected from glycerides; - At least one filler selected from amino acid powder and solid cellulose beads; and - At least 5% by weight of ascorbic acid and / or its derivatives relative to the total weight of the composition.

2. The composition of claim 1, wherein the aqueous phase is gelled with a mixture of at least 1.8% by weight of crosslinked acrylic homopolymer and 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid homopolymer relative to the total weight of the composition.

3. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the crosslinked acrylic homopolymer is at least partially neutralized acrylic homopolymer.

4. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the oil (i) is selected from volatile hydrocarbon-based oils containing 8 to 16 carbon atoms.

5. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the oil (ii) is lauroyl sarcosine isopropyl ester.

6. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the oil (iii) is selected from isononyl isononanoate, dioctyl ether and / or dioctyl carbonate.

7. The composition according to claim 1 further comprises a non-volatile hydrocarbon oil selected from non-volatile alkanes.

8. The composition according to claim 1, wherein it is free of fatty alcohol waxes.

9. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the surfactant selected from glycerides is selected from monoesters, diesters and / or triesters of glycerol and fatty acids containing 18 carbon atoms.

10. The composition according to claim 1, further comprising at least one gemini surfactant of formula (A) or a stereoisomer thereof: in: - Y' independently represents a carboxylic acid group or an alkali metal salt of a carboxylic acid group. -j1, k1, j2, and k2 represent integers such that (j1, k1, j2, k2) = (2, 0, 2, 0), (2, 0, 0, 2), (0, 2, 2, 0), or (0, 2, 0, 2). -l represents an integer in the range of 6 to 16.

11. The composition according to claim 10, wherein the gemini surfactant of formula (A) is selected from sodium dilauramidylglutamine lysine, sodium dimyristoylglutamine lysine, and sodium distearate glutamine lysine.

12. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the total amount of surfactant contained is from 2% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

13. The composition of claim 1, comprising as a filler: at least lauroyl lysine powder, optionally in combination with boron nitride, or at least solid cellulose beads.

14. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the total content of the filler is from 1% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

15. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the content of ascorbic acid and / or its derivatives is from 5% to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

16. The composition according to claim 1, characterized in that... The composition contains at least one additional cosmetic active agent in addition to ascorbic acid or its derivatives.

17. The composition according to claim 16, characterized in that... The additional cosmetic active agent is selected from moisturizers.

18. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the composition is free of silicone compounds and / or ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA) and / or parabens.

19. The composition according to claim 1, characterized in that... The composition is a cosmetic composition for caring for keratin materials.

20. The composition according to claim 16, characterized in that... The additional cosmetic active agent is selected from C-glycoside compounds; hyaluronic acid compounds; and mixtures thereof.

21. A cosmetic method for treating keratin materials, comprising at least one step of applying the composition as defined in claim 1 to the keratin material.

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