Solid care and / or cosmetic composition

Abstract

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition in solid form, preferably anhydrous, for caring for and / or making up keratin materials, in particular the skin, eyelids, eyebrows or lips, comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium: (I) zinc oxide particles, preferably zinc oxide particles, preferably zinc oxide particles, preferably zinc oxide particles, preferably zinc oxide particles, preferably zinc oxide particles, preferably zinc oxide particles, preferably zinc oxide particles, preferably zinc oxide particles, preferably zinc oxide particles, preferably zinc oxide particles, preferably zinc oxide particles, preferably zinc oxide particles, preferably zinc oxide particles, preferably zinc oxide particles, preferably zinc oxide particles, preferably zinc oxide particles; (ii) boron nitride particles, and (iii) one or more waxes.

Description

Technical Field

[0001] The present invention relates to the field of cosmetics, in particular to a solid cosmetic composition for caring for and / or making up keratin materials, in particular the skin, eyelids, eyebrows or lips. Background Art

[0002] Solid anhydrous skin or lip care and / or makeup products are sought after by consumers for their covering and staying power properties.

[0003] The hiding power is usually provided by white pigments and / or fillers, and titanium dioxide is usually used, which has strong opacity and hiding power. However, alternative solutions to titanium dioxide are increasingly sought, and the Applicant has observed that zinc oxide particles used to replace titanium dioxide in solid anhydrous compositions tend to destroy the solid composition and affect the manufacturing feasibility as well as the application and organoleptic properties. This problem therefore requires the search for a formulation solution in order to maintain the structural properties of the stick as well as the application and organoleptic properties of the stick, without affecting the hiding result provided by the zinc oxide particles. In particular, mechanical requirements are sought to be met, on the one hand, in order to ensure the manufacturing feasibility, to maintain the stick during application and prevent it from breaking, and on the other hand, in order to ensure the transfer quality, in order to guarantee a comfortable application as well as sufficient deposit on the lips and good quality (e.g. uniformity of deposit and chromaticity).

[0004] Surprisingly, the Applicant has observed that the use of boron nitride particles makes it possible to solve this problem and to obtain anhydrous solid compositions having good hiding properties, good mechanical properties of the sticks and good application and organoleptic properties. Summary of the invention

[0005] Thus, a first aspect of the invention is a cosmetic composition in solid form, preferably anhydrous, for caring for and / or making up keratin materials, in particular the skin, the eyelids, the eyebrows or the lips, comprising in a physiologically acceptable medium:

[0006] (i) zinc oxide particles,

[0007] (ii) boron nitride particles, and

[0008] (iii) one or more waxes.

[0009] According to a particular and preferred embodiment, the composition of the invention is an anhydrous composition.

[0010] The invention also relates to a cosmetic method for caring for and / or making up keratin materials, in particular the skin, the eyelids, the eyebrows or the lips, preferably the lips, comprising applying to said keratin materials a composition as defined herein. DETAILED DESCRIPTION

[0011] The present invention therefore relates to a cosmetic composition in solid form, preferably anhydrous, for caring for and / or making up keratin materials, in particular the skin, the eyelids, the eyebrows or the lips, comprising in a physiologically acceptable medium:

[0012] (i) zinc oxide particles,

[0013] (ii) boron nitride particles, and

[0014] (iii) one or more waxes.

[0015] "Anhydrous composition" means in particular that water is preferably not intentionally added to the composition of the invention, but may be present in trace amounts in the various compounds used in the composition. In particular, the composition according to the invention comprises less than 4% by weight of water, preferably less than 3% by weight, preferably less than 2% by weight, more preferably less than 1% by weight, even more preferably less than 0.5% by weight of water, or even completely free of water, relative to the total weight of the composition. According to a specific embodiment, the composition is free of water.

[0016] According to the present invention, a "composition in solid form" means a composition having a hardness greater than 30 Nm at a temperature of 20°C and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). -1 , preferably greater than 40Nm -1 composition.

[0017] The hardness can be measured at 20°C by a method called "fat cut wire (du filàcouper le beurre)" method, which consists in cutting a stick of the product (which is preferably a rotating cylinder) transversely using a rigid metal wire with a diameter of 250 μm by moving the wire relative to the stick at a speed of 60 mm / min. The hardness of the sample is expressed in grams-force (Gf) and can be measured using a texture analyzer (e.g., TAXT Plus Texture Analyzer).

[0018] For each type of product, reference ranges (targets) are established in order to guarantee the mechanical properties of the rods.

[0019] The hardness of the solid composition according to the invention is generally greater than or equal to 70 g, in particular greater than or equal to 90 g, for example in the range of 100 to 300 g, preferably in the range of 140 to 210 g. Such compositions (in particular corresponding to sticks manufactured in a standard format of about 12.7 mm) have sufficient stability and hardness: the sticks are sufficiently rigid and strong not to break during application and are therefore compatible with packaging of rods or another solid form and with frictional application on the surface to be treated and / or made up; they are also characterized by ease of application, such as good gliding, good disintegration during application and a pleasant texture.

[0020] The composition may in particular be in the form of a stick, or a composition packaged in a cup.

[0021] The composition of the present invention comprises zinc oxide particles.

[0022] Zinc oxide particles

[0023] Zinc oxide particles appear as white powder and are insoluble in water.

[0024] The zinc oxide particles can be in non-uniform form, typically hexagonal and cubic.

[0025] The zinc oxide particles used according to the present invention are pigmentary zinc oxide particles and not zinc oxide nanoparticles used as mineral sunscreens.

[0026] The average size of the zinc oxide particles used according to the invention generally ranges from 0.1 μm (micrometers) to 50 μm, in particular from 0.1 μm to 10 μm or even from 0.1 μm to 1 μm.

[0027] The particle size may be measured by laser diffraction profilometry using an apparatus of the Malvern Mastersizer type from Malvern, in particular by measuring the value D

[50] which represents the largest dimension exhibited by 50% by volume of the particles.

[0028] Mention may in particular be made of the commercial reference RONACARE ZINC OXIDE from the company Merck, or the reference A120-ZnO-11S3 from the company Kobo, or the reference ZINC OXIDE COSMETICS from the company Keyser & Mackay / Grillo.

[0029] According to a particular and preferred embodiment, the zinc oxide particles contain more than 80% by weight of zinc oxide (ZnO), in particular more than 95%, 96%, 97%, 98% or 99% by weight of ZnO, or even 100% ZnO.

[0030] The zinc oxide particles used according to the invention may be treated with a lipophilic treatment agent for better dispersion in the fatty phase, or may be untreated.

[0031] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the zinc oxide particles are not treated and they have the INCI name: Zinc Oxide.

[0032] According to another particular embodiment, the zinc oxide particles are treated with a lipophilic treating agent.

[0033] The zinc oxide particles may also be mixed with a wetting agent to facilitate their dispersion in the composition and thereby improve the homogeneity of the composition.

[0034] According to a specific embodiment, the content of zinc oxide particles in the composition of the present invention generally ranges from 0.1% to 50% by weight of zinc oxide, particularly from 0.5% to 40% by weight, in particular from 1% to 30% by weight of zinc oxide, preferably from 2% to 20% by weight of zinc oxide, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0035] For anhydrous solid compositions for skin use other than powders (e.g. skin tone correctors), the total content of zinc oxide particles is generally in the range of 0.5 to 30% by weight, better still 1 to 20% by weight (of zinc oxide), relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0036] For anhydrous solid compositions for lips (eg lipstick), the total content of zinc oxide particles generally ranges from 0.1 to 30 wt %, preferably from 0.5 to 20 wt % (of zinc oxide) relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0037] According to a particular and preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises less than 3% by weight, in particular less than 1% by weight, of titanium dioxide, relative to the total weight of the composition, or is even free of titanium dioxide.

[0038] According to an even more preferred embodiment, the composition of the invention is free of titanium dioxide.

[0039] The composition of the present invention also comprises boron nitride particles.

[0040] Boron Nitride Granules

[0041] The particles of the boron nitride particles that can be used according to the present invention are generally layered or flake-shaped. "Layered particles" or "flake-shaped particles" means that the thickness of the particles is less than the width of the particles, especially the ratio between the width and thickness of the particles ranges from 2 to 100.

[0042] Boron nitride particles generally have the INCI name: BORON NITRIDE.

[0043] The boron nitride particles that can be used according to the present invention generally have an average size in the range of 0.5 μm to 20 μm, in particular 1 μm to 10 μm, as measured by the laser diffraction distribution method described above.

[0044] The following commercial references may in particular be mentioned: BORON NITRIDE CC and SOFTOUCH CC from the company SAFIC ALCAN / Momentive, BORON NITRIDE SHP from the company IWASE / Mizushima, RONAFLAIR from Merck, CARESS BN from Kobo.

[0045] The particles of boron nitride particles may be treated with a lipophilic treating agent, or may be untreated.

[0046] According to certain embodiments, the boron nitride particles are not treated.

[0047] According to a particular embodiment, the boron nitride particles are not in the form of composite particles.

[0048] According to a specific embodiment, the content of boron nitride particles in the composition of the invention ranges in particular from 0.1% to 50% by weight, in particular from 0.2% to 40% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 30% by weight, and even better from 1% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0049] According to a specific and preferred embodiment of the present invention, the weight ratio between the zinc oxide particles and the boron nitride particles ranges from 99:1 to 50:50, preferably from 99:1 to 80:20, preferably from 99:1 to 90:10.

[0050] The fatty phase of the composition may also comprise one or more waxes.

[0051] wax

[0052] Within the meaning of the present invention, "wax" is intended to mean a solid compound at 25°C which has a reversible solid / liquid change and whose melting temperature is greater than 30°C, preferably greater than 45°C.

[0053] Mention may be made of microcrystalline waxes, paraffin waxes, polyethylene waxes, ozokerite waxes, products comprising mixtures of polyethylene and alcohols containing 20 to 50 carbon atoms, silicone waxes (especially alkyl dimethicones), C20-C40 alkyl stearates, beeswax, waxes of vegetable origin, copolymers of maleic anhydride and α-olefins, waxes obtained by metallocene catalysis and mixtures thereof.

[0054] According to a specific and preferred embodiment, the total content of waxes in the composition of the invention ranges from 3% to 25% by weight, preferably from 4% to 20% by weight and in particular from 5% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0055] The fatty phase also generally comprises one or more oils.

[0056] Within the meaning of the present invention, "oil" is intended to mean a fatty substance which is insoluble in water and is liquid at 25° C. and atmospheric pressure.

[0057] As oils that can be used in the invention, mention may in particular be made of hydrocarbon oils, silicone oils and mixtures thereof. According to a particular embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises one or more hydrocarbon oils.

[0058] As hydrocarbon oils, mention may be made in particular of hydrocarbon oils of vegetable or mineral origin, linear or branched C8-C19 alkanes, synthetic C 10 -C 40 Ether, Synthetic C 10 -C 40 Esters, optionally branched and / or unsaturated C 12 -C 26 Fatty alcohols, optionally branched and / or unsaturated higher C 12 -C 22 Fatty acids, monoesters and / or polyesters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof.

[0059] As examples of oils of vegetable origin, mention is made of soybean oil, grapeseed oil, sesame oil, corn oil, rapeseed oil, sunflower oil, cottonseed oil, avocado oil, olive oil, castor seed oil, jojoba seed oil, peanut oil, sweet almond oil, palm oil, pumpkin oil, hazelnut oil, almond oil, wheat germ oil, crabapple oil, sesame oil, macadamia oil, coconut oil, cereal germ oil, kuju oil, thistle oil, candelilla oil, safflower seed oil, shea butter, and mixtures thereof.

[0060] As examples of C10-C26 aliphatic fatty alcohols, linear or branched saturated C10-C26 aliphatic monoalcohols, more preferably C16-C20 aliphatic monoalcohols, such as 2-octyldodecanol are mentioned.

[0061] As examples of linear or branched hydrocarbons, mention is made of paraffin oil and its derivatives, vaseline, mineral oil (mixture of hydrocarbon oils from petroleum), polybutene, hydrogenated polyisobutene, polyisoprene, polydecene (for example hydrogenated polydecene) or linear, branched and / or cyclic alkanes.

[0062] As examples of possibly branched and / or unsaturated fatty acids, mention is made of myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, behenic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid or isostearic acid and mixtures thereof.

[0063] As examples of esters, mention is made of monoesters or polyesters of fatty acids having a linear or branched fatty chain containing from 6 to 30 carbon atoms and of fatty alcohols having a fatty chain containing from 3 to 30 carbon atoms (for example the monoesters or polyesters described above) or mixtures thereof, in particular monoesters and polyesters of hydroxy acids and fatty alcohols, esters of benzoic acid and fatty alcohols, polyesters of polyols, dipentaerythritol C5-C9 esters, or polyglycerol polyesters, trimethylolpropane polyesters, propylene glycol polyesters, hydrogenated castor oil polyesters, more particularly isononyl isononanoate, stearyl caprylate, isopropyl palmitate, Isopropyl myristate, butyl stearate, hexyl laurate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, 2-octyldodecanol myristate, 2-diethylhexyl succinate, diisostearyl malate, 2-octyldodecanol lactate, triisostearate or diisostearate, diisostearate malate, octyldodecanol stearyl stearate, cetearyl isononanoate, diisopropyl adipate, caprylic capric triglyceride, caprylic triglyceride, isocetyl stearyl stearate stéarate), alkyl benzoates, (di) pentaerythritol tetraisostearate, pentaerythritol tetraisostearate, dipentaerythritol pentaisononanoate, bis-diglyceryl polyacyladipate-2, trimethylolpropane triethylhexanoate, trimethylolpropane triisostearate, propylene glycol dibenzoate, propylene glycol dicaprylate, a mixture of triglycerides obtained by esterification of glycerol with capric acid and caprylic acid, non-alkoxylated polyglycerol esters (e.g. polyglyceryl-2 triisostearate esters, polyglyceryl-2 isostearate or polyglyceryl-2 diisostearate), isostearyl lactylate, octyldodecanol hydroxystearate, diisostearyl malate, glyceryl stearate, diethylene glycol diisononanoate, jojoba esters, polyglyceryl polyricinoleates (e.g., polyglyceryl-3 polyricinoleate, polyglyceryl-5 polyricinoleate, polyglyceryl-6 polyricinoleate and polyglyceryl-10 polyricinoleate (by their INCI names)), and mixtures thereof.

[0064] The oil content may range from 10% to 90% by weight, preferably from 20% to 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0065] According to a particular embodiment, the composition of the invention also comprises one or more pasty fatty substances.

[0066] "Pasty fatty substance" means a non-crystalline fatty compound comprising a liquid part and a solid part at a temperature of 25°C.

[0067] According to the invention, the pasty fatty substance may be selected from lanolin and its derivatives, polymeric organosilicon compounds, (meth)acrylic acid alkyl ester copolymers preferably having C8-C30 alkyl groups, homopolymers and copolymer oligomers of vinyl esters having C8-C30 alkyl groups, homopolymers and copolymer oligomers of vinyl ethers having C8-C30 alkyl groups, fat-soluble polyethers resulting from polyetherification between one or more C2-C50 diols, ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide copolymers having long-chain C6-C30 alkylene oxides, Polymers, diglycerides, arachidyl propionate, phytosterol esters, non-crosslinked polyesters produced by polycondensation between diacids or linear or branched C4-C50 polycarboxylic acids and diols or polyols, esters produced by the esterification reaction of hydrogenated castor oil with isostearic acid (for example, monoisostearate, diisostearate or triisostearate of hydrogenated castor oil), mixtures of soya sterols and oxyethylated (5OE) or oxypropylated (5OP) pentaerythritol, triglycerides of fatty acids and derivatives thereof, shea butter, cocoa butter, mango butter or mango butter, and mixtures thereof.

[0068] Mention may be made in particular of triglycerides of fatty acids and their derivatives, esters of polyols with dimers of fatty acid diacids, or one of their esters, esters of hydrogenated castor oil, oligoesters of glycerol (especially diglycerides), vegetable fats and mixtures thereof.

[0069] The content of pasty fatty substance in the composition of the invention may range from 0% to 30% by weight, in particular from 5% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0070] Additional Ingredients

[0071] The composition of the present invention may further comprise an ingredient selected from the group consisting of lipophilic gelling agents, additional fillers, additional coloring materials, and mixtures thereof.

[0072] According to a particular embodiment, the composition further comprises at least one lipophilic gelling agent.

[0073] Lipophilic gelling agent

[0074] According to the invention, "lipophilic gelling agent" means a compound capable of gelling the fatty phase of the composition.

[0075] The lipophilic gelling agent may advantageously be chosen from natural or synthetic clays, modified natural micas such as aluminum, magnesium and potassium fluorosilicates, dextrins and fatty acid esters such as dextrin palmitate or dextrin myristate, triesters of C8-C30 fatty acids with mono- or polyglycerol such as glyceryl tri(hydroxystearate) (INCI name: trihydroxystearin).

[0076] The lipophilic gelling agent is preferably a natural clay or a synthetic clay chosen from bentonites (especially hectorites and montmorillonites), beidellites, saponites, nontronites, sepiolites, biotites, attapulgite, vermiculites and zeolites. Preferably, it can be chosen from hectorites. Even more preferably, hectorites modified with alkyl quaternary ammonium chlorides are used, the ammonium being substituted with at least one, preferably at least two, C14-C20 alkyl groups, such as disteardimethylammonium hectorites in which the ammonium contains two methyl groups and two stearyl groups.

[0077] As preferred liposoluble gelling agents, mention may in particular be made of modified hectorites dispersed in oil, such as the reference BENTONE GEL from Elementis, whose INCI name is Octyldodecanol (and) Disteardimonium Hectorite (and) Propylene Carbonate.

[0078] Thus, according to a particular embodiment, the composition of the invention also comprises a lipophilic gelling agent, in particular a mineral gelling agent, such as a bentonite, preferably a hectorite quaternaire.

[0079] When the composition comprises one or more gelling agents, the total content of lipophilic gelling agents may range from 0.5% to 5% by weight, in particular from 2% to 4% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0080] According to a particular embodiment, the composition further comprises at least one additional filler different from the zinc oxide particles and the boron nitride particles.

[0081] Additional filler

[0082] Additional fillers are used in particular to modify the rheology or texture of the composition and / or to impart a matte effect and / or a blurring effect.

[0083] For the purposes of the present invention, "filler" means particles of any shape, colourless or white, mineral or organic, natural or synthetic, which have a certain form (platelet, spherical or oblong), are insoluble and are dispersed in the composition. The fillers are chosen in particular from mica, talc, bismuth oxychloride, silica, kaolin, calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate and bicarbonate, zinc stearate, magnesium stearate or lithium stearate, zinc laurate, magnesium myristate, powders of synthetic polymers such as polyethylene, polyester, polyamide (such as nylon), polyacrylic acid or polymethacrylic acid powders, silicone powders, cellulose powders, glass beads and ceramic beads, powders of organic materials of natural origin such as corn, wheat, rice or cotton starch, crosslinked or not crosslinked, hydroxyapatite and mixtures thereof.

[0084] According to a particular embodiment, the composition of the invention does not comprise talc.

[0085] The fillers may be treated on the surface (in particular by a lipophilic or hydrophobic agent, such as described above for the zinc oxide particles) or untreated.

[0086] According to a particular embodiment, the filler is not treated on the surface.

[0087] According to another particular embodiment, the filler is treated on the surface with a lipophilic agent, such as those described above.

[0088] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises one or more additional coloring materials (different from zinc oxide particles).

[0089] Additional coloring materials

[0090] Within the meaning of the present invention, the term "coloring material" means a compound capable of producing a coloring optical effect when formulated in a sufficient amount in a suitable cosmetic medium. The coloring material is generally selected from pigments (insoluble in oil and water phases) and colorants (soluble in oil or water phases).

[0091] The coloring material may be of mineral, synthetic or natural origin.

[0092] According to a particular embodiment, the coloring material is of mineral or synthetic origin.

[0093] The coloring material may be treated with a lipophilic treating agent, or may be untreated.

[0094] The coloring material may be chosen from organic or inorganic coloring materials, materials having optical effects and mixtures thereof, which may or may not be soluble in the fatty or oily phase of the invention.

[0095] According to a particular embodiment, the coloring material is chosen in particular from mineral pigments other than zinc oxide, colorants and organic pigments, composite pigments, nacres, colorants and mixtures thereof.

[0096] "Pigments" are understood to mean white or colored mineral or organic particles insoluble in aqueous solution, which are intended to color and / or opacify the deposit obtained. Mention may be made of mineral pigments, organic pigments and composite pigments (ie pigments based on mineral and / or organic materials).

[0097] Among the "mineral pigments" other than zinc oxide, mention may be made of iron oxides (especially black, yellow, red and brown iron oxides), manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium oxide, hydrated chromium oxide and ferric blue. As indicated above, according to a particular embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises less than 3% by weight of titanium dioxide, in particular less than 1% of titanium dioxide, or even no titanium dioxide, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0098] Preferably, the composition comprises one or more iron oxides.

[0099] Among the “colorants and organic pigments (e.g. paints)”, there may be mentioned, for example, Blue 1, Yellow 5, Yellow 6, Yellow 10, Yellow 11, Red 4, Red 6, Red 7, Red 9, Red 19, Red 13, Red 17, Red 21, Red 22, Red 27, Red 28, Red 30 and Red 33, Red 34, Red 36, Red 40, Green 3, Orange 4, Violet 2, Carmine, Green 5, Orange 5, Orange 10, Green 6, Sudan Red, Sudan Brown, Orange 5 and Quinoline Yellow, their salts (e.g. sodium salts or barium salts), or paints comprising at least one of the colorants or organic pigments, for example Blue 1 Lake (CI 42090), Yellow 5 Lake (CI 19140), Yellow 6 Lake (CI 15985), Yellow 10 Lake (CI 47005), Yellow 11 Lake, Red 6 Lake (CI 15850), Red 7 Lake (CI 15851), 15850), Red 21 Lake (CI 45380), Red 22 Lake (CI 45380), Red 27 Lake (CI45410), Red 28 Lake (CI 45410), Red 30 Lake (CI 73360), Red 33 Lake (CI 15880), Red 34 Lake (CI15880), Red 40 Lake (CI16035), and / or their sodium or barium salts, in particular Red 6Na Lake, Red 6Ba Lake and mixtures thereof.

[0100] A "paint" is an organic pigment comprising at least one organic colorant deposited on an inert support (or "substrate"). In particular, paints comprising a matrix selected from aluminum (Al), barium sulfate (Ba) or calcium rosinate (Ca) matrices will be used. For example, Red 28 Al Lake is a paint comprising an aluminum matrix on which a Red 28 colorant is deposited.

[0101] According to a more specific embodiment, the composition comprises at least one colorant or organic pigment (e.g., a paint) selected from Blue 1, Blue 1 Lake (CI 42090), Red 6, Red 6 Lake (15850), Red 7, Red 7 Lake (CI15850), Red 27, Red 27 Lake (CI 45410), Red 28, Red 28 Lake (CI 45410) and / or their sodium or barium salts and mixtures thereof, preferably Red 27, Red 27 Lake (CI 45410), Red 28, Red 28 Lake (CI 45410) and / or their sodium or barium salts and mixtures thereof, more preferably Red 28, Red 28 Lake (CI 45410) and / or their sodium or barium salts and mixtures thereof.

[0102] As "nacres", mention may be made in particular of colored pearlescent pigments, such as micas with iron oxides and with or without TiO2, micas with organic pigments of the abovementioned type, and pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. Mention may be made of the commercial references nacre series and Pearlescent pigments can also have a matrix of silicon dioxide, aluminum oxide, aluminum hydroxide, synthetic mica, tin oxide, borosilicates (for example: sodium calcium borosilicate, calcium aluminum borosilicate or cellulose or cellulose derivatives).

[0103] According to a particular embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises one or more additional coloring materials chosen from iron oxides, colorants or organic pigments, nacres and mixtures thereof.

[0104] According to a particular embodiment, the composition comprises an additional coloring material selected from:

[0105] (i) colorants and organic pigments, the colorants and organic pigments are selected from Blue 1, Blue 1 Lake (CI 42090), Yellow 5, Yellow 5 Lake (CI 19140), Yellow 6, Yellow 6 Lake (CI 15985), Yellow 10, Yellow 10 Lake (CI 47005), Yellow 11, Yellow 11 Lake, Red 4, Red 4 Lake (CI 14700), Red 6, Red 6 Lake (15850), Red 7, Red 7 Lake (CI 15850), Red 21, Red 21 Lake (CI 45380), Red 22, Red 22 Lake (CI 45380), Red 27, Red 27 Lake (CI 45410), Red 28, Red 28 Lake (CI45410), Red 30, Red 30 Lake (CI 73360), Red 33, Red 33 Lake (CI 73360), Red 34, Red 34 Lake (CI 73361), Red 35, Red 35 Lake (CI 73362), Red 36, Red 36 Lake (CI 73363), Red 37, Red 37 Lake (CI 73364), Red 38, Red 38 Lake (CI 73365), Red 39, Red 40, Red 41 Lake (CI 73366), Red 41, Red 42, Red 43 Lake (CI 73367), Red 43, Red 44 Lake (CI 73368), Red 45, Red 46 Lake (CI 73369), Red 47, Red 47 Lake (CI 73368), Red 48, Red 49, Red 50 Lake (CI 73369), Red 49, Red 40 Lake (CI 73369), Red 48, 15880), Red 34, Red 34 Lake (CI 15880), Red 40, Red 40 Lake (CI 16035), Orange 4, Carmine and / or its salts (especially sodium or barium salts, such as Red 6Na Salt Lake, Red 6Ba Salt Lake) and mixtures thereof, especially Blue 1, Blue 1 Lake (CI 42090), Red 6, Red 6 Lake (15850), Red 7, Red 7 Lake (CI 15850), Red 21, Red 21 Lake (CI 45380), Red 22, Red 22 Lake (CI 45380), Red 27, Red 27 Lake (CI 45410), Red 28, Red 28 Lake (CI 45410) and / or its salts and mixtures thereof, preferably Red 27, Red 27 Lake (CI 45410), Red 28, Red 28 Lake (CI 45410) and / or its salts and mixtures thereof, preferably Red 27, Red 27 Lake (CI 45410), Red 28, Red 28 Lake (CI 45410) and / or its salts and mixtures thereof;

[0106] (ii) composite pigments comprising an inorganic and / or organic matrix (especially silica, borosilicate or alumina) in which at least one of the above-mentioned colorants or organic pigments is embedded or enclosed, and mixtures thereof;

[0107] (iii) pearlescent pigments comprising a matrix, in particular mica, covered with at least one of the colorants or organic pigments mentioned above, and mixtures thereof, in particular pearlescent pigments comprising synthetic mica covered with a colorant or organic pigment selected from the group consisting of Blue 1, Blue 1 Lake (CI 42090), Yellow 5, Yellow 5 Lake (CI 19140), Red 6, Red 6 Lake (15850), Red 7, Red 7 Lake (CI 15850), Red 27, Red 27 Lake (CI 45410), Red 28, Red 28 Lake (CI 45410), Carmine, and mixtures thereof;

[0108] (iv) and mixtures thereof;

[0109] More preferably, it is selected from the following colorants or organic pigments, or composite pigments, or mother-of-pearl, and mixtures thereof: the colorant or organic pigment is selected from Red 27, Red 27 Lake (CI 45410), Red 28 and Red 28 Lake (CI45410); the composite pigment comprises Red 27, Red 27 Lake (CI 45410), Red 28 or Red 28 Lake (CI 45410); the mother-of-pearl comprises Red 27, Red 27 Lake (CI 45410), Red 28 or Red 28 Lake (CI 45410).

[0110] In particular, the coloring material is present in the composition in a total content (including the content of zinc oxide particles) ranging from 0.1 wt % to 25 wt % relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0111] For care compositions, the total content of coloring materials (including the content of zinc oxide particles) generally ranges from 0.1% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0112] For a cosmetic composition, the total content of coloring materials (including the content of zinc oxide particles) generally ranges from 5 to 25% by weight, particularly from 8 to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0113] According to a particular embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises:

[0114] - Zinc oxide particles,

[0115] - Boron nitride particles,

[0116] - one or more waxes, the total content of said waxes ranging from 3% to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition,

[0117] - hydrocarbon oils,

[0118] - optionally a lipophilic gelling agent,

[0119] - optionally one or more coloring materials selected from iron oxides, colorants and organic pigments, nacres and mixtures thereof,

[0120] It is characterized in that the composition comprises less than 3% by weight of titanium dioxide, in particular less than 1% by weight of titanium dioxide, or even no titanium dioxide, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0121] According to a specific and preferred embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises:

[0122] - zinc oxide particles, in particular in an amount ranging from 0.5% to 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition,

[0123] - boron nitride particles, in particular in an amount of 0.2% to 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition,

[0124] - one or more waxes, the total content of said waxes ranging from 3% to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition,

[0125] - hydrocarbon oils,

[0126] - one or more lipophilic gelling agents,

[0127] - one or more coloring materials selected from iron oxides, colorants and organic pigments, mother-of-pearl and mixtures thereof,

[0128] Characterized in that the composition does not contain titanium dioxide.

[0129] According to preferred embodiments, the weight ratio between zinc oxide particles and boron nitride particles in these preferred embodiments of the composition of the invention ranges from 99:1 to 50:50, in particular from 99:1 to 80:20, preferably from 99:1 to 90:10.

[0130] GALENIQUE

[0131] The composition according to the invention is a composition for caring for and / or making up keratin materials, in particular for the skin, the eyelids, the eyebrows or the lips, preferably for the eyelids, the eyebrows and the lips.

[0132] According to a particular embodiment, the composition of the invention has the form of a stick, or is a composition packaged in a bottle or a cup.

[0133] According to a particular and preferred embodiment, it will be a lipstick or a composition for the lips in a bottle or a cup.

[0134] According to another particular embodiment, it will be a makeup liner.

[0135] According to another particular embodiment, it will be a stick or a pencil or a composition in a bottle or a cup to be applied to the eyebrows using the fingers or a brush (for example: eyebrow pencil).

[0136] According to another embodiment, it will be a stick or a composition in a bottle or cup (for example: eye shadow) to be applied to the eyelid using the finger, a sponge or a brush.

[0137] According to another embodiment, it will be a stick or a composition in a bottle or cup (for example: skin tone corrector or concealer) to be applied to the facial skin (especially specific areas) using fingers, sponge or brush.

[0138] Thus, the composition of the invention is in particular in the form of a lipstick, a liner, an eyebrow pencil, a blush, or an eyeshadow, or a skin tone corrector or a concealer, preferably a lipstick.

[0139] Beauty Methods

[0140] The invention also relates to a cosmetic method for caring for and / or making up keratin materials, which comprises applying a composition according to the invention to said keratin materials, in particular the skin, the eyelids, the eyebrows or the lips, preferably the lips.

[0141] The composition of the present invention is as defined above.

[0142] According to a particular embodiment, the composition for application to keratin materials according to the invention comprises:

[0143] - Zinc oxide particles,

[0144] - Boron nitride particles,

[0145] - one or more waxes, the total content of said waxes ranging from 3% to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition,

[0146] - hydrocarbon oils,

[0147] - optionally a lipophilic gelling agent,

[0148] - optionally one or more coloring materials selected from iron oxides, colorants and organic pigments, nacres and mixtures thereof,

[0149] It is characterized in that the composition comprises less than 3% by weight of titanium dioxide, in particular less than 1% by weight of titanium dioxide, or even no titanium dioxide, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0150] According to a particular and preferred embodiment, the composition for application to keratin materials according to the invention comprises:

[0151] - zinc oxide particles, in particular in an amount ranging from 0.5% to 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition,

[0152] - boron nitride particles, in particular in an amount of 0.2% to 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition,

[0153] - one or more waxes, the total content of said waxes ranging from 3% to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition,

[0154] - hydrocarbon oils,

[0155] - one or more lipophilic gelling agents,

[0156] - one or more coloring materials selected from iron oxides, colorants and organic pigments, mother-of-pearl and mixtures thereof,

[0157] Characterized in that the composition does not contain titanium dioxide.

[0158] Preferably, the composition for application to the skin or lips is in the form of a lipstick, a liner, an eyebrow pencil, a blush or an eyeshadow or a skin tone corrector or a concealer, preferably a lipstick.

[0159] The invention will now be illustrated in the following non-limiting examples. Unless otherwise stated, % are expressed as % by weight of the ingredient relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0160] Example

[0161] Example 1: Effect of Boron Nitride Particles on the Structure and Application and Sensory Properties of the Composition

[0162] Several tests were conducted upstream to determine the hiding power of zinc oxide particles compared to titanium dioxide, so that they could replace titanium dioxide in the formulation without affecting the desired hiding effect. These results show that for equivalent hiding power, in the anhydrous solid composition according to the invention, the amount of zinc oxide particles required for equivalent hiding results is 3 to 4 times the amount of titanium dioxide.

[0163] Therefore, in the following examples, a formulation having 1.4 wt % titanium dioxide ("TiO2") relative to the total weight of the composition was used as a control formulation.

[0164] The formulation using only zinc oxide ("ZnO") particles instead of TiO2 contained a 4.4 wt% level of ZnO. However, the addition of this amount of ZnO tended to break up the stick, making it harder to apply, more brittle, and less evenly deposited on the lips.

[0165] The Applicant therefore sought a solution to remedy these detrimental effects on the structure of the stick and on the application and sensory properties of the stick, resulting in the use of boron nitride ("BN") particles.

[0166] Examples of control formulations (TiO2), comparative formulations (ZnO only) and formulations according to the invention (ZnO+BN) are described in the following table.

[0167] [Table 1]

[0168]

[0169]

[0170] *The amount of ZnO is about 3 times the amount of TiO2 to obtain the same hiding power and is "same pigmented" in the examples.

[0171] Protocol for preparing the composition:

[0172] The composition was prepared according to the following steps:

[0173] All colored particles (ZnO, TiO2 and organic pigments / lacquers) are prepared in advance in the form of pigment pastes: each pigment or clear stock is dispersed in an oily medium. The majority of the oil, the pasty fatty substance, the modified hectorite, the preservative and the wax are weighed and heated to 95° C. Stirring allows for homogenization immediately after heating.

[0174] Then, add the pigment paste. Pass the mixture under a rotor-stator to obtain good homogenization in the medium.

[0175] The filler is then added and everything is homogenized before pouring at a temperature between 85° C. and 90° C. The mold is left to rest at room temperature for 10 minutes and then placed in a refrigerator for 5 minutes.

[0176] The sticks were removed from the mould and then left to rest in their packaging (sticks) at room temperature.

[0177] Evaluation of the properties of the obtained rods:

[0178] The sticks were evaluated for their structural properties, in particular their hardness, as well as for their application and sensory properties, in particular the uniformity of deposit and their ability to glide during application.

[0179] The hardness properties of the different sticks are evaluated at 20°C by a method called the "grease cut wire" method, which consists in cutting the sticks (rotating cylinders) of the product transversely using a rigid metal wire with a diameter of 250 μm by moving the wire relative to the stick at a rate of 60 mm / min. The hardness of the samples is evaluated using a texture analyzer (for example a TAXT texture analyzer) and is expressed in grams-force (Gf). The values ​​obtained for lipsticks are generally between 70 g and 300 g, knowing that for the compositions of the invention, it is sought to be as close as possible to the hardness of the control examples comprising the same composition but with TiO2 instead of ZnO (here, the hardness ranges between 140 g and 190 g).

[0180] The following table shows the evaluation results.

[0181] [Table 2]

[0182]

[0183] These results indicate that the use of boron nitride particles in a composition comprising zinc oxide particles as a replacement for titanium dioxide in an amount sufficient to obtain equivalent hiding power is able to compensate for the adverse effects of zinc oxide particles on the structure and application and sensory properties of the sticks and thus restore the desired properties in a composition without TiO2 (compared to a control using TiO2).

[0184] Example 2: Formulation

[0185] The following examples are illustrative and non-limiting examples of the present invention, prepared according to methods well known to the cosmetic formulator.

[0186] 2.1 Waterless lipstick

[0187] [Table 3]

[0188] Element ％ Silicon dioxide 5.0 Polyethylene wax 5.5 Candelilla wax 3.0 Shea Butter 1.5 Iron oxide (red) 5.0 Organic pigments (paint) 2.0 Boron Nitride Granules 0.15 Zinc Oxide Granules 3.0 Hydrogenated polydecene QSP100

[0189] The lipstick has desirable properties in terms of texture and sensory properties upon application. When applied to the lips, the lipstick provides good covering properties and color properties with an even laydown.

[0190] 2.2 Waterless Eye Shadow

[0191] [Table 4]

[0192] Ingredients (INCI name) weight% Silicon dioxide 15 Synthetic Fluorphlogopite 10 Iron Oxide 8 Zinc Oxide Granules 10 Boron Nitride Granules 3 Mother of Pearl 2 Oils and waxes Qsp 100

[0193] The eye shadow packaged in the cup has desirable properties in terms of texture and sensory feel upon application. When applied to the eyelid, the eye shadow provides coverage and pearlescent effect with an even laydown.

[0194] 2.3 Waterless lipstick

[0195] [Table 5]

[0196] Element ％ Silicon dioxide 5.0 Polyethylene wax 5.5 Candelilla wax 3.0 Shea Butter 1.5 Iron oxide (red) 2.0 Organic pigments (paint) 5.0 Boron Nitride Granules 0.5 Zinc oxide particles 8.0 Hydrogenated polydecene QSP100

[0197] The lipstick has desirable properties in terms of texture and sensory properties upon application. When applied to the lips, the lipstick provides good covering properties and color properties with an even laydown.

Claims

1. A cosmetic composition in solid form, preferably anhydrous, for caring for and / or making up keratin materials, in particular the skin, the eyelids, the eyebrows or the lips, comprising in a physiologically acceptable medium: (i) Zinc oxide particles (ii) boron nitride particles, and (iii) one or more waxes, It is characterized in that The cosmetic composition comprises less than 3% by weight of titanium dioxide relative to the total weight of the composition.

2. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1, It is characterized in that The total content of waxes ranges from 3% to 25% by weight, preferably from 4% to 20% by weight, in particular from 5% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

3. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1 or claim 2, It is characterized in that The cosmetic composition also comprises one or more pasty fatty substances.

4. The cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, It is characterized in that The cosmetic composition comprises less than 1% of titanium dioxide relative to the total weight of the composition, or is even free of titanium dioxide.

5. The cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, It is characterized in that The content of the zinc oxide particles ranges from 0.1 wt % to 50 wt %, particularly from 0.2 wt % to 40 wt %, particularly from 2 wt % to 30 wt %, relative to the total weight of the composition.

6. The cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, It is characterized in that The content of the boron nitride particles ranges from 0.1 to 50 wt %, particularly from 0.2 to 40 wt %, preferably from 0.5 to 30 wt %, and more preferably from 1 to 20 wt %, relative to the total weight of the composition.

7. The cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, It is characterized in that The weight ratio between the zinc oxide particles and the boron nitride particles ranges from 99:1 to 50:50, preferably from 99:1 to 80:20, preferably from 99:1 to 90:

10.

8. The cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, It is characterized in that The cosmetic composition may further comprise another additional ingredient selected from the group consisting of a lipophilic gelling agent, an additional filler, an additional coloring material and mixtures thereof.

9. A cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, It is characterized in that The cosmetic composition is in the form of a stick, or is a composition packaged in a bottle or a cup.

10. The cosmetic composition according to claim 9, It is characterized in that The cosmetic composition is a lipstick, a makeup liner, an eyebrow pencil, a blush or an eye shadow or a skin tone corrector or a concealer, preferably a lipstick.

11. A cosmetic method for caring for and / or making up keratin materials, in particular the skin, the eyelids, the eyebrows or the lips, preferably the lips, comprising applying to the keratin materials a composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 10.

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