Hair treatment method comprising applying composition comprising amino acid and hydroxylated (poly) carboxylic acid, followed by washing hair, and use as pre-shampoo

Abstract

The present invention relates to a method for the cosmetic treatment of the hair, comprising: a stage (i) of applying to the hair a cosmetic composition comprising one or more compounds of the amino acid type and one or more hydroxylated (poly) carboxylic acids comprising from 2 to 8 carbon atoms and / or salts thereof, followed by a stage (ii) of washing said hair, comprising the application of a washing cosmetic composition comprising one or more anionic and / or amphoteric surfactants, the washing stage (ii) being carried out at most 60 minutes after stage (i). The invention also relates to the use of said composition comprising one or more compounds of the amino acid type and one or more hydroxylated (multi-element) carboxy 5 acids comprising from 2 to 8 carbon atoms and / or salts thereof as pre-shampoo.

Description

[0001] The present invention relates to a method for the cosmetic treatment of hair, which method comprises the sequential application of a pre-shampoo cosmetic composition comprising one or more amino acid type compounds and one or more specific hydroxycarboxylic acids, followed by a washing cosmetic composition comprising one or more anionic and / or amphoteric surfactants.

[0002] Consumers around the world are routinely exposed to highly diverse water sources which have an impact on the hair, particularly in terms of their cosmetic properties and / or performance qualities of hair products.

[0003] "Mineral" water contains varying amounts of minerals, such as calcite (calcium), dolomite (calcium and magnesium), magnetite (iron), and chalcanthite (copper), in the form of dissolved ions. "Hard" water is also enriched in minerals, such as calcium and magnesium, while swimming pool water is enriched in copper salts, which originate from the algaecides used in swimming pool treatments.

[0004] Hair has a strong tendency to absorb these minerals and / or their metal salts due to the presence of anionic functional groups on its surface, which correspond in particular to the sulfonic or carboxylic acid functional groups of keratin. Furthermore, the isoelectric point of a single hair is generally described as being between 3.2 and 4. As a result, in everyday life, the pH of the water applied to the hair is greater than such values, which results in negatively charged fibers.

[0005] The minerals (very often multivalent cations) will therefore be attracted to this negatively charged fiber and trapped by forming chemical bonds, which prevents these minerals from being released by conventional hair treatment methods. This leads to a possible accumulation of minerals on the hair over time. This attachment depends not only on the hardness of the water, the frequency and / or duration of exposure of the hair to the water in question, but also on the nature and length of the hair (in particular porosity and charge) and also on its state of damage.

[0006] The accumulation of these minerals and / or their metal salts can lead to more or less significant modifications of the hair fiber and in particular of the cosmetic properties of individual hairs. Thus, the accumulation of calcium and magnesium can lead to dry hair lacking luster, while the accumulation of copper can lead to dull hair.

[0007] Furthermore, the accumulation of metal (eg iron, copper) salts can accelerate the damage done to the hair, since they catalyze oxidation / reduction reactions and generate hydroxyl radicals HO° that can be harmful to keratin fibers, including at low levels.

[0008] This can lead to photodegradation of the fibers, lightening of the fibers, and also to detrimental changes in the properties of the hair, which can lead to premature breakage of individual hairs; these phenomena are very particularly observed during subsequent use of lightening or dyeing products.

[0009] In other words, due to the accumulation of minerals and / or their metal salts, the hair may become less resistant, more fragile, indeed even more susceptible to breakage, or also lose its shine.

[0010] There is therefore a real need for available compositions that make it possible to combat the accumulation of metal ions resulting from minerals and metal salts dissolved in water, indeed even to extract them from the keratin fibres, in order to limit their negative effects and overcome all the above-mentioned disadvantages.

[0011] Using the composition described below as a pre-shampoo enables this to be achieved.

[0012] The subject of the present invention is therefore a method for cosmetically treating hair, comprising:

[0013] - a stage (i) of applying to the hair a cosmetic composition comprising:

[0014] - at least 0.5% by weight of one or more amino acid type compounds relative to the total weight of the composition, and

[0015] - one or more hydroxylated (poly)carboxylic acids containing 2 to 8 carbon atoms and / or their salts, followed by

[0016] - a stage (ii) of washing the hair, which comprises applying a washing cosmetic composition comprising one or more anionic and / or amphoteric surfactants,

[0017] Said stage (ii) of washing the hair takes place at most 60 minutes after said stage (i).

[0018] Another subject of the present invention is the use of a cosmetic composition as defined above as a pre-shampoo.

[0019] It has been found that the process according to the invention makes it possible to improve the resistance of the hair to breakage, to strengthen the hair and also to significantly limit the reduction or loss of its shine, an undesirable effect that can be caused by the presence of metal ions, in particular copper or calcium ions, in the fibers.

[0020] After application of the composition, the fibers appear to be strengthened, with the strengthening improving with continued application of the composition.

[0021] It has also been found that the compositions used in the context of the present invention make it possible to contribute to the conditioning properties of the hair, in particular smooth feel, softness, shine and promoted detangling, and that this simultaneously contributes to the strength, body and volume of the hair.

[0022] It finds very particular application in the cosmetic treatment, in particular washing and / or conditioning, of sensitized, weakened and / or damaged keratin fibers, in particular after physical (repeated brushing) and / or chemical treatments (for example dyeing, bleaching, permanent wave and / or straightening).

[0023] It is particularly suitable for the cosmetic treatment, in particular washing and / or conditioning of keratin fibers which are loaded with metals, in particular with calcium and / or copper in an amount of at least 100 ppm, better still at least 200 ppm; in particular with copper, in particular in an amount of at least 100 ppm, better still at least 200 ppm, and / or with calcium, in particular in an amount of at least 4000 ppm, better still at least 10 000 ppm.

[0024] The hair treatment method according to the invention thus comprises a phase (i) consisting of applying to the hair a cosmetic composition or a pre-shampoo as defined below.

[0025] This phase may or may not be followed by a dwell phase, for example a dwell time of 1 to 15 minutes, in particular 2 to 5 minutes.

[0026] This stage may optionally also be followed by a rinsing stage, for example with water, and then by stage (ii). Preferably, stage (i) is followed by a rinsing stage. Therefore, preferably, the method according to the invention comprises an intermediate rinsing stage between stages (i) and (ii).

[0027] The hair treatment method according to the invention also comprises a washing phase (ii) which consists in applying to the hair a washing cosmetic composition as defined below and comprising one or more anionic and / or amphoteric surfactants.

[0028] This phase may or may not be followed by a dwell phase, for example a dwell time of 1 to 15 minutes, in particular 2 to 5 minutes. It may also optionally be followed by a rinsing phase, for example with water, and / or a drying phase. Preferably, the washing phase (ii) is followed by a rinsing phase and optionally a drying phase.

[0029] The application phase (i) of the pre-shampoo composition and the washing phase (ii) are carried out successively or sequentially, which means that one of these application phases precedes the other; there may be intermediate phases between these two phases, such as a stay and / or rinsing and / or drying phase.

[0030] The application phase (i) is preceded by the washing phase (ii).

[0031] The time separating the phase (i) of applying the pre-shampoo composition and the phase (ii) of washing the hair is at most 60 minutes; for example, it may be between 30 seconds and 60 minutes, in particular between 1 and 30 minutes, indeed even between 2 and 20 minutes, better still between 3 and 15 minutes and very particularly between 4 and 10 minutes.

[0032] The invention also relates to the use of a cosmetic composition as defined below as a pre-shampoo.

[0033] In the following text and unless otherwise indicated, the limits of the range of values ​​are included in the range, especially in the expressions "between" and "ranging from to".

[0034] Furthermore, the expression "at least one" used in the present specification is equivalent to and can be replaced by the expression "one or more".

[0035] A / Pre-Shampoo Composition

[0036] Thus, the hair treatment method according to the invention comprises a stage (i) which comprises applying to the hair a cosmetic composition comprising at least 0.5 by weight of one or more amino acid type compounds and one or more hydroxylated (poly)carboxylic acids containing 2 to 8 carbon atoms and / or their salts. This care composition can be described as a pre-shampoo composition.

[0037] In the continuation of this specification, the term "composition" will be used to indicate such a "pre-shampoo" composition used in stage (i); the term "washing composition" will be used to indicate the washing composition of stage (ii).

[0038] Amino acid compounds

[0039] The compositions used in the context of the present invention comprise one or more amino acid-based compounds.

[0040] Within the meaning of the present invention, amino acid type compounds are understood to mean organic compounds comprising one or more carboxylic acid and / or sulfonic acid functional groups and one or more amine functional groups, which may be endocyclic, optionally in salt form. The amine functional groups are primary or secondary amine functional groups.

[0041] Preferably, the amino acid type compound is selected from amino acid type compounds and / or salts thereof which contain only one or more carboxylic acid functions (and therefore no sulfonic acid functions). Said compounds are also known as aminocarboxylic acid type compounds and are particularly preferred.

[0042] Preferably, the composition according to the present invention comprises one or more amino acid-type compounds selected from compounds corresponding to the following formula (I) and / or salts thereof.

[0043] Therefore, the amino acid type compound may correspond to formula (I):

[0044]

[0045] Where p is an integer equal to 1 or 2, it should be understood that:

[0046] - when p=1, R and the nitrogen atom form a saturated heterocyclic ring containing 5 to 8 ring members, preferably 5 ring members, which ring may be substituted by one or more groups selected from hydroxyl or (C1-C4) alkyl;

[0047] - When p=2, R represents a hydrogen atom or a saturated, straight chain or branched (C1-C 12 )alkyl, preferably (C1-C4)alkyl, which may be optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups selected from -S-, -NH- or -C(NH)- and / or may be optionally substituted by one or more groups selected from hydroxyl (-OH), amino (-NH2), -SH, -COOH, -CONH2 or -NH-C(NH)-NH2.

[0048] Preferably, when p=1, R and the nitrogen atom form a saturated heterocyclic ring containing 5 ring members, which ring is unsubstituted.

[0049] Preferably, p=2.

[0050] Preferably, when p=2, R represents a hydrogen atom or a saturated, linear or branched (C1-C4) alkyl group, which is optionally interrupted by a -S- heteroatom and / or optionally substituted by one or two groups selected from hydroxyl, amino or -NH-C(NH)-NH2.

[0051] Preferably, p=2 and R represents a hydrogen atom.

[0052] The amino acid-type compound may also be a salt of the compound of formula (I).

[0053] These salts include salts with organic or inorganic bases, for example alkali metal salts, such as lithium salts, sodium salts or potassium salts; alkaline earth metal salts, such as magnesium salts or calcium salts, and zinc salts.

[0054] The amino acid type compound may be in the form of an optical isomer in the L, D or DL ​​configuration, preferably the L configuration.

[0055] As examples of the compound according to the present invention in the form of an optical isomer in the L configuration, mention may be made of L-proline, L-methionine, L-serine, L-arginine and L-lysine.

[0056] Preferably, the amino acid compound according to the present invention is selected from glycine, proline, methionine, serine, arginine, lysine, salts thereof (particularly alkali metal salts, alkaline earth metal salts or zinc salts) and mixtures thereof.

[0057] Preferably, the amino acid type compound according to the present invention is selected from glycine, proline, methionine, serine, arginine, salts thereof and mixtures thereof.

[0058] Even better, the amino acid type compound is selected from glycine, its salts (especially alkali metal salts, alkaline earth metal salts or zinc salts) and mixtures thereof.

[0059] As glycinates according to the invention, mention may be made of sodium glycinate, zinc glycinate, calcium glycinate, magnesium glycinate, manganese glycinate and potassium glycinate, preferably sodium glycinate and potassium glycinate.

[0060] Preferably, the amino acid type compound is glycine.

[0061] The total content of amino acid compounds present in the composition according to the invention is at least 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. This content can range from 0.5% to 10% by weight, in particular from 0.7% to 8% by weight, and even better from 0.8% to 7% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0062] In particular, the total content of aminocarboxylic acid type compounds in the composition according to the invention may range from 0.5% to 10% by weight, in particular from 0.7% to 8% by weight, better still from 0.8% to 7% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0063] Even better, the total content of amino acid-type compounds selected from glycine, proline, methionine, serine, arginine, lysine, their salts and mixtures thereof in the composition according to the present invention can range from 0.5% to 10% by weight, in particular from 0.7% to 8% by weight, and even better from 0.8% to 7% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0064] Very particularly, the total content of amino acid type compounds chosen from glycine, its salts and mixtures thereof in the composition according to the invention can range from 0.5% to 10% by weight, in particular from 0.7% to 8% by weight and better still from 0.8% to 7% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0065] Better still, the glycine content in the composition according to the invention may range from 0.5% to 10% by weight, in particular from 0.7% to 8% by weight, better still from 0.8% to 7% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0066] Hydroxy (poly)carboxylic acid

[0067] The composition used according to the invention also comprises one or more hydroxylated (poly)carboxylic acids comprising 2 to 8 carbon atoms and / or salts thereof.

[0068] These (poly)acids are different from the amino acid type compounds described above.

[0069] The (poly)acids contain at least one COOH group (in acid or salified form); they may therefore contain a single COOH group - the term used is then monoacids - or may contain several, in particular at least 2 COOH groups (in acid or salified form), better still 2 or 3 COOH groups (in acid or salified form) - the term used is then polyacids.

[0070] (Polyacids) are understood as meaning both monoacids and polyacids.

[0071] They also contain at least one OH group and may contain several, in particular 2 to 3, OH groups.

[0072] Preferably, they contain in total from 4 to 6 carbon atoms and their hydrocarbon chains are saturated and straight-chain.

[0073] Advantageously, the hydroxylated (poly)carboxylic acids and / or their salts comprise in total 4 to 6 carbon atoms, 1 to 3 OH groups and 2 to 3 COOH groups (in acid or salified form).

[0074] Salts of these (poly) acids include salts with organic or inorganic bases, for example alkali metal salts, such as lithium, sodium or potassium salts; alkaline earth metal salts, such as magnesium or calcium salts, and zinc salts. Alkali metal salts or alkaline earth metal salts are preferred and in particular sodium salts.

[0075] Preferably, the hydroxylated (poly)carboxylic acid or its salt is chosen from α-hydroxy acids and their salts and in particular from lactic acid, glycolic acid, tartaric acid or citric acid and their salts, in particular alkali metal salts or alkaline earth metal salts; very particularly citric acid and / or tartaric acid and also salts thereof, in particular alkali metal salts or alkaline earth metal salts, such as sodium citrate and / or sodium tartrate; even better still citric acid or its salts, in particular alkali metal salts or alkaline earth metal salts, such as sodium citrate.

[0076] Preferably, the total content of hydroxylated (poly)carboxylic acids containing a total of 2 to 8 carbon atoms and / or their salts present in the composition according to the invention is at least 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. This content can range from 0.5% to 10% by weight, in particular from 1% to 8% by weight, better still from 1.5% to 6% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0077] In particular, the total content of hydroxylated (poly)carboxylic acids or their salts containing a total of 4 to 6 carbon atoms, 1 to 3 OH groups and 2 or 3 COOH groups present in the composition according to the invention may range from 0.5% to 10% by weight, in particular from 1% to 8% by weight and better still from 1.5% to 6% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0078] Very particularly, the total content of hydroxylated (poly)carboxylic acids chosen from lactic acid, glycolic acid, tartaric acid or citric acid and their salts, in particular alkali metal salts or alkaline earth metal salts, in the composition according to the invention may range from 0.5% to 10% by weight, in particular from 1% to 8% by weight and better still from 1.5% to 6% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0079] Even better, the content of citric acid and / or its salts in the composition according to the invention can range from 0.5% to 10% by weight, in particular from 1% to 8% by weight, even better from 1.5% to 6% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0080] Associative polymer

[0081] The composition used according to the invention may comprise one or more associative polymers. Preferably, the associative polymer is nonionic.

[0082] Within the meaning of the present invention, a "polymer" is understood to mean a polymer consisting of monomers, at least one of which is not an alkylene oxide, and a monofunctional compound of the formula RX (R indicates an optionally hydroxylated C 10 -C 30Any compound resulting from the polycondensation polymerization or free radical polymerization of an alkylene oxide with an alkyl or alkenyl group, and X indicates a carboxylic acid, amine, amide, hydroxyl or ester group. Specifically excluded are all compounds resulting from the simple condensation of an alkylene oxide with a fatty alcohol, fatty ester, fatty acid, fatty amide or fatty amine.

[0083] Within the meaning of the present invention, "associative polymer" is understood to mean an amphiphilic polymer capable of reversibly combining with itself or with other molecules in an aqueous medium. In its chemical structure, it generally comprises at least one hydrophilic region or group and at least one hydrophobic region or group.

[0084] An associative polymer according to the invention is a polymer comprising at least one fatty chain comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, the molecules of which are able to combine with each other or with molecules of other compounds in the formulation medium. Preferably, the fatty chain comprises from 10 to 30 carbon atoms.

[0085] A specific case of associative polymers are amphiphilic polymers, i.e. polymers comprising one or more hydrophilic parts or groups making them water-soluble and one or more hydrophobic regions or groups (comprising at least one fatty chain), which polymers interact and assemble together or with other molecules via these hydrophilic parts or groups and hydrophobic regions or groups.

[0086] "Hydrophobic group" is understood to mean a group or polymer with a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon chain (which may contain one or more heteroatoms, such as P, O, N or S), or a group with a perfluorinated or silicone chain. When it indicates a hydrocarbon group, the hydrophobic group contains at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular 12 to 30 carbon atoms and preferably 18 to 30 carbon atoms. Preferably, the hydrophobic hydrocarbon group is derived from a monofunctional compound. For example, the hydrophobic group can be produced by fatty alcohols, such as stearyl alcohol, dodecanol or decanol, or in addition by polyalkylated fatty alcohols, such as steareth-100. It can also indicate a hydrocarbon polymer, such as, for example, polybutadiene.

[0087] Within the meaning of the present invention, "fatty chain" is understood to mean a straight-chain or branched alkyl or alkenyl chain comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms and better still from 10 to 22 carbon atoms.

[0088] Within the meaning of the present invention, "fatty compounds", such as, for example, fatty alcohols, fatty acids or fatty amides, are understood to mean compounds which contain in their backbone at least one saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon chain, such as an alkyl or alkenyl chain, containing at least 8 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms and better still from 10 to 22 carbon atoms.

[0089] Among the anionic associative polymers, mention may in particular be made of:

[0090] - (A) those comprising at least one hydrophilic unit and at least one allyl ether unit having a fatty chain; and more particularly those of:

[0091] - its hydrophilic units are composed of ethylenically unsaturated anionic monomers, more particularly also vinyl carboxylic acids and very particularly acrylic acid or methacrylic acid or a mixture of these; and

[0092] Its allyl ether unit with a fatty chain corresponds to the monomer of the following formula (I'): CH2=C(R')-CH2OB n R

[0093] wherein R' indicates H or CH3, B indicates ethyleneoxy, n ranges from 0 to 100, and R indicates a hydrocarbon group selected from alkyl, aralkyl, aryl, alkaryl and cycloalkyl, containing 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 24 carbon atoms and more particularly 12 to 18 carbon atoms. Preferably, R' indicates H, n=10 and R indicates stearyl (C 18 ) group.

[0094] Among these anionic associative polymers, particular preference is given to polymers formed from 20 to 60% by weight of acrylic acid and / or methacrylic acid, 5 to 60% by weight of C1-C4 alkyl (meth)acrylates, 2 to 50% by weight of allyl ethers having a fatty chain of formula (I') and 0 to 1% by weight of a crosslinking agent, which is preferably a copolymerizable polyethylenically unsaturated monomer such as diallyl phthalate, allyl (meth)acrylate, divinylbenzene, (poly)ethylene glycol dimethacrylate or methylenebisacrylamide.

[0095] Very particular preference is given to crosslinked terpolymers of methacrylic acid, ethyl acrylate and polyethylene glycol (10EO) stearyl ether (steareth-10), in particular the crosslinked terpolymer sold under the name Salcare SC80 by BASF, which is a 30% aqueous emulsion of a crosslinked terpolymer of methacrylic acid, ethyl acrylate and steareth-10 allyl ether (40 / 50 / 10) with the INCI name Steareth-10 Allyl Ether / Acrylates Copolymer;

[0096] - (B) contains at least one hydrophilic unit of unsaturated olefinic carboxylic acid type and at least one hydrophilic unit of unsaturated carboxylic acid type (C 10 -C 30 ) those of the hydrophobic units of alkyl esters.

[0097] These polymers are preferably chosen from those in which the hydrophilic units of the unsaturated ethylenic carboxylic acid type correspond to monomers of the following formula (II):

[0098]

[0099] Wherein R1 indicates H, CH3 or C2H5, and its unsaturated carboxylic acid type (C 10 -C 30 ) The hydrophobic unit of the alkyl ester corresponds to the monomer of the following formula (III):

[0100]

[0101] Where R 2 indicates H, CH3 or C2H5, and R3 indicates C 10 -C 30 , preferably C 12 -C 22 alkyl.

[0102] According to the present invention, the unsaturated carboxylic acid (C 10 -C 30 ) Alkyl esters include, for example, lauryl acrylate, stearyl acrylate, decyl acrylate, isodecyl acrylate and dodecyl acrylate, and the corresponding methacrylates, lauryl methacrylate, stearyl methacrylate, decyl methacrylate, isodecyl methacrylate and dodecyl methacrylate.

[0103] Among these anionic associative polymers, use will more particularly be made of polymers formed from a mixture of monomers comprising: (i) (meth) acrylic acid, (ii) an ester of the above-mentioned formula (III) and in which R2 indicates H or CH3 and R3 indicates an alkyl group having 12 to 22 carbon atoms, and optionally (iii) a crosslinking agent which is a well-known copolymerizable polyethylenically unsaturated monomer such as diallyl phthalate, allyl (meth) acrylate, divinylbenzene, (poly)ethylene glycol dimethacrylate and methylenebisacrylamide.

[0104] Among the anionic associative polymers of this type, those composed of 95 to 60% by weight of (meth)acrylic acid, 4 to 40% by weight of acrylic acid C 10 -C 30 alkyl esters and 0 to 6% by weight of a crosslinking polymerizable monomer, or additionally 98 to 96% by weight of (meth)acrylic acid, 1 to 4% by weight of acrylic acid C 10 -C 30 Those composed of alkyl esters and 0.1 to 0.6% by weight of a crosslinking polymerizable monomer, such as those described above.

[0105] Mention may in particular be made of the products sold under the trade names Pemulen TR1, Pemulen TR2, Carbopol 1382, Carbopol ETD 2020, Carbopol Ultrez 20, Carbopol Ultrez 21 (having the INCI name Acrylates / C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer) by the company Lubrizol, and more preferably still Pemulen TR1 and Carbopol 1382;

[0106] -(C)Maleic anhydride / C 30 -C 38 α-olefin / alkyl maleate terpolymers, such as maleic anhydride / C 30 -C 38 α-Olefin / isopropyl maleate copolymers, in particular the copolymer sold under the name Performa V 1608 by Newphase Technologies (INCI name: C30-38 Olefin / isopropyl maleate / MA copolymer);

[0107] - (D) an acrylic terpolymer comprising (a) 20 to 70% by weight of an α,β-monoethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acid, (b) 20 to 80% by weight of a non-surface active α,β-monoethylenically unsaturated monomer other than (a), and (c) 0.5 to 60% by weight of a nonionic monourethane which is the reaction product of a monohydroxy surfactant and a monoethylenically unsaturated monoisocyanate.

[0108] Mention may in particular be made of the dimethyl(meta-isopropenyl)benzyl isocyanate terpolymer of methacrylic acid / methyl acrylate / ethoxylated (40EO) behenyl alcohol, in particular as a 25% aqueous dispersion such as the product Viscophobe DB1000 sold by Amerchol (Dow Chemical) with the INCI name Polyacrylate-3;

[0109] (E) copolymers which comprise, among their monomers, (i) an α,β-monoethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acid such as acrylic acid or methacrylic acid, and (ii) an α,β-monoethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acid, in particular acrylic acid or methacrylic acid, and an oxyalkylenated fatty alcohol, in particular containing 2 to 100 mol of ethylene oxide, in particular 4 to 50, indeed even 10 to 40 mol of ethylene oxide, in particular a C8-C 32 Esters of fatty alcohols.

[0110] As monomers, mention may in particular be made of behenyl or stearyl (meth)acrylate containing from 10 to 40 EO, in particular from 18 to 30 EO.

[0111] Preferably, these compounds also comprise, as monomers, esters of α,β-monoethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acids and C1-C4 alcohols, in particular C1-C4 alkyl (meth)acrylates.

[0112] Preferably, these copolymers contain at least one (meth)acrylic acid monomer, at least one C1-C4 alkyl (meth)acrylate monomer and at least one oxyethylenated C8-C4 alkyl (meth)acrylate monomer. 32 Alkyl ester monomers comprising from 2 to 100 mol EO, particularly from 4 to 50 EO, indeed even from 10 to 40 EO.

[0113] By way of example, mention may be made of Aculyn 22, sold by Rohm and Haas, an oxyalkylened methacrylic acid / ethyl acrylate / stearyl methacrylate terpolymer (INCI name: Acrylates / Steareth-20 Methacrylate Copolymer), or also Aculyn 28, sold by Rohm and Haas, an oxyalkylened methacrylic acid / ethyl methacrylate / behenyl methacrylate terpolymer (INCI name: Acrylates / Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Copolymer), and the Novethix L-10 polymer sold by Lubrizol;

[0114] (F) an associative polymer comprising at least one ethylenically unsaturated monomer having sulfonic acid groups, in free or partially or completely neutralized form, and comprising at least one hydrophobic portion.

[0115] Among polymers of this type, mention may more especially be made of:

[0116] - crosslinked or non-crosslinked, neutralized or unneutralized copolymers comprising from 15 to 60% by weight of AMPS (2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid or salt) units and from 40 to 85% by weight of (meth)acrylic acid (C8-C 16 ) alkyl ester units as described in patent application EP-A-750 899;

[0117] - terpolymers comprising 10 to 90 mol % of acrylamide units, 0.1 to 10 mol % of AMPS units and 5 to 80 mol % of n-(C6-C8)alkylacrylamide units, such as those described in patent US 5 089 578;

[0118] - completely neutralized copolymers of AMPS and dodecyl methacrylate, and also non-crosslinked and crosslinked copolymers of AMPS and n-dodecylmethacrylamide;

[0119] - copolymers composed of AMPS units and of steareth-25 methacrylate units, such as Aristoflex sold by Clariant (INCI name: Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate / Steareth-25 Methacrylate Crosspolymer), or beheneth-25 methacrylate units, such as Aristoflex HMB sold by Clariant (INCI name: Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate / Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Crosspolymer), or also steareth-8 methacrylate units, such as Aristoflex HMB sold by Clariant (INCI name: Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate / Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Crosspolymer). (INCI name: AMMONIUM ACRYLOYLDIMETHYLTAURATE / STEARETH-8 METHACRYLATE COPOLYMER);

[0120] - (G) an associative polymer comprising at least one vinyl lactam monomer and at least one α,β-monoethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acid monomer, such as vinyl pyrrolidone, acrylic acid and methacrylic acid C1-C 20 Terpolymers of alkyl esters (e.g. lauryl methacrylate), such as those marketed by ISP under the name Terpolymer sold by LM (INCI name: VP / Acrylates / Lauryl Methacrylate Copolymer).

[0121] Among the cationic associative polymers, mention may be made of:

[0122] -(A') cationic associative polyurethane, which can be represented by the following general formula (Ia): RX-(P) n -[L-(Y) m ] r -L'-(P') p -X'-R'

[0123] in:

[0124] R and R' are the same or different and represent a hydrophobic group or a hydrogen atom;

[0125] X and X' are identical or different and represent a group comprising an amine function with or without a hydrophobic group, or also a group L";

[0126] L, L' and L" are the same or different and represent a group derived from a diisocyanate;

[0127] P and P' are identical or different and represent a group containing an amine function with or without a hydrophobic group;

[0128] Y represents a hydrophilic group;

[0129] r is an integer between 1 and 100 (inclusive), preferably between 1 and 50 (inclusive) and in particular between 1 and 25 (inclusive);

[0130] n, m and p are each independently between 0 and 1000 (inclusive);

[0131] The molecule contains at least one protonated or quaternized amine function and at least one hydrophobic group.

[0132] Preferably, the only hydrophobic groups are the groups R and R' at the chain ends.

[0133] A preferred family of cationic associative polyurethanes is the family corresponding to formula (Ia) described above, in which:

[0134] R and R' both independently represent a hydrophobic group,

[0135] X and X' each represent a group L",

[0136] n and p are integers having values ​​between 1 and 1000 (inclusive), and

[0137] L, L', L", P, P', Y and m have the meanings given above.

[0138] Another preferred family of cationic associative polyurethanes is the family corresponding to formula (Ia) above, in which:

[0139] n=p=0 (these polymers do not contain units derived from monomers with amine functional groups which are incorporated into the polymers during polycondensation), the protonated amine functional groups being generated by hydrolysis of excess isocyanate functional groups at the chain ends, followed by alkylation of primary amine functional groups formed with alkylating agents with hydrophobic groups (i.e. compounds of the RQ or R'Q type, wherein R and R' are as defined above and Q indicates a leaving group, such as halide, sulfate, etc.).

[0140] Yet another preferred family of cationic associative polyurethanes is the family corresponding to formula (Ia) above, in which:

[0141] R and R' both independently represent a hydrophobic group,

[0142] X and X' both independently represent a group containing a quaternary amine,

[0143] n=p=0, and

[0144] L, L', Y and m have the meanings indicated above.

[0145] The number-average molecular weight (Mn) of the cationic associative polyurethane is preferably between 400 and 500 000 (inclusive), in particular between 1000 and 400 000 (inclusive) and ideally between 1000 and 300 000 (inclusive).

[0146] Preferably, the hydrocarbyl group is derived from a monofunctional compound.

[0147] For example, the hydrophobic group may be derived from fatty alcohols such as stearyl alcohol, dodecanol or decanol. It may also indicate a hydrocarbon polymer, such as polybutadiene, for example.

[0148] When X and / or X' indicates a group containing a tertiary amine or a quaternary amine, X and / or X' may represent one of the following formulae:

[0149]

[0150] in:

[0151] R2 represents a linear or branched alkylene group having 1 to 20 carbon atoms, containing or not containing a saturated or unsaturated ring, or an arylene group, one or more of the carbon atoms may be replaced by a heteroatom selected from N, S, O or P;

[0152] R1 and R3 are the same or different, indicating a straight or branched C1-C 30 Alkyl or alkenyl or aryl, at least one of the carbon atoms may be replaced by a heteroatom selected from N, S, O or P;

[0153] A - The counter ion is a physiologically acceptable anionic counterion, such as a halide, for example chloride or bromide, or methanesulfonate.

[0154] The groups L, L' and L" represent groups of the formula:

[0155]

[0156] in:

[0157] Z represents -O-, -S- or -NH-; and

[0158] R4 represents a linear or branched alkylene or arylene group having 1 to 20 carbon atoms and containing or not containing a saturated or unsaturated ring, and one or more of the carbon atoms may be replaced by a heteroatom selected from N, S, O and P.

[0159] The groups P and P' comprising an amine functionality may represent at least one of the following formulae:

[0160]

[0161] in:

[0162] R5 and R7 have the same meanings as R2 defined above;

[0163] R6, R8 and R9 have the same meanings as R1 and R3 defined above;

[0164] R 10 represents an optionally unsaturated straight or branched alkylene group which may contain one or more heteroatoms selected from N, O, S and P; and

[0165] A - The counter ion is a physiologically acceptable anionic counterion, such as a halide, for example chloride or bromide, or methanesulfonate.

[0166] With regard to the meaning of Y, a hydrophilic group is understood to mean a polymeric or non-polymeric water-soluble group.

[0167] By way of example, when no polymers are concerned, mention may be made of ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol and propylene glycol.

[0168] By way of example, when it comes to hydrophilic polymers, mention may be made of polyethers, sulfonated polyesters, sulfonated polyamides or mixtures of these polymers. Preferably, the hydrophilic compound is a polyether and in particular a poly(ethylene oxide) or a poly(propylene oxide).

[0169] The cationic associative polyurethanes of formula (Ia) according to the invention are formed from diisocyanates and various compounds having functional groups containing labile hydrogen. The functional groups containing labile hydrogen may be alcohols, primary or secondary amines or thiol functional groups, which, after reaction with the diisocyanate functional groups, give rise to polyurethanes, polyureas and polythioureas, respectively. The term "polyurethane" of the invention encompasses these three types of polymers, i.e. polyurethanes themselves, polyureas and polythioureas and also copolymers of these.

[0170] The first type of compound involved in the preparation of the polyurethane of formula (Ia) is a compound containing at least one unit having an amine functional group. This compound may be multifunctional, but preferably the compound is difunctional, that is to say, according to a preferred embodiment, the compound contains two labile hydrogen atoms carried, for example, by hydroxyl, primary amine, secondary amine or thiol functional groups. It is also possible to use a mixture of multifunctional and difunctional compounds, wherein the percentage of multifunctional compounds is lower.

[0171] As indicated above, this compound may contain more than one unit having an amine functionality. It then relates to polymers carrying repeating units having an amine functionality.

[0172] This type of compound can be represented by one of the following formulas:

[0173] HZ-(P) n -ZH or HZ-(P') p -ZH, wherein Z, P, P', n and p are as defined above.

[0174] By way of example, mention may be made of N-methyldiethanolamine, N-(tert-butyl)diethanolamine and N-sulfoethyldiethanolamine.

[0175] The second compound involved in the preparation of the polyurethane of formula (Ia) is a diisocyanate corresponding to the following formula: O=C=N-R4-N=C=O, wherein R4 is as defined above.

[0176] By way of example, mention may be made of methylene diphenyl diisocyanate, methylene cyclohexane diisocyanate, isophorone diisocyanate, toluene diisocyanate, naphthalene diisocyanate, butane diisocyanate or hexane diisocyanate.

[0177] The third compound involved in the preparation of the polyurethane of formula (Ia) is a hydrophobic compound intended to form the terminal hydrophobic group of the polymer of formula (Ia).

[0178] This compound consists of a hydrophobic group and a functional group with a labile hydrogen, such as a hydroxyl group, a primary or secondary amine or a thiol functional group.

[0179] For example, this compound may be a fatty alcohol such as stearyl alcohol, dodecanol or decanol. When this compound comprises a polymer chain, it may be, for example, an α-hydroxylated hydrogenated polybutadiene.

[0180] The hydrophobic groups of the polyurethane of formula (Ia) can also be produced by the quaternization reaction of a tertiary amine of a compound containing at least one tertiary amine unit. Therefore, the hydrophobic groups are introduced by a quaternizing agent. This quaternizing agent is a compound of the RQ or R'Q type, wherein R and R' are as defined above and Q indicates a leaving group, such as a halide, sulfate, etc.

[0181] The cationic associative polyurethane may additionally contain a hydrophilic block. This block is provided by a fourth type of compound involved in the preparation of the polymer. This compound may be multifunctional. It is preferably difunctional. It is also possible to have a mixture in which the percentage of multifunctional compounds is lower.

[0182] The functional group with a labile hydrogen is an alcohol, a primary or secondary amine or a thiol functional group. The compound may be a polymer terminated at the chain end with one of these functional groups with a labile hydrogen.

[0183] By way of example, when no polymers are concerned, mention may be made of ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol and propylene glycol.

[0184] By way of example, when it comes to hydrophilic polymers, mention may be made of polyethers, sulfonated polyesters, sulfonated polyamides or mixtures of these polymers. Preferably, the hydrophilic compound is a polyether and in particular a poly(ethylene oxide) or a poly(propylene oxide).

[0185] The hydrophilic functional group referred to as Y in formula (Ia) is optional. In particular, units with quaternary amine or protonated amine functional groups may be sufficient to contribute the required solubility or water dispersibility in aqueous solution for polymers of this type.

[0186] Although the presence of hydrophilic groups Y is optional, it is preferred that the cationic associative polyurethane comprises such groups.

[0187] - (B') quaternized cellulose derivatives, and in particular:

[0188] -i) quaternized cellulose modified with a radical comprising at least one fatty chain, such as a linear or branched alkyl radical, a linear or branched aralkyl radical, or a linear or branched alkylaryl radical comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, or a mixture of these;

[0189] -ii) quaternized hydroxyethylcellulose modified with a radical comprising at least one fatty chain, such as a linear or branched alkyl radical, a linear or branched aralkyl radical, or a linear or branched alkylaryl radical comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, or a mixture of these;

[0190] -iii) Hydroxyethyl cellulose of formula (Ib):

[0191]

[0192] in:

[0193] -R and R' are the same or different, indicating an ammonium group such as -R a R b R c N + Q - , where R a , R b and R c are the same or different and represent a hydrogen atom or a straight or branched C1-C 30 , preferably C1-C 20 Alkyl, such as methyl or dodecyl; and Q - represents an anionic counterion, such as a halide, for example chloride or bromide; and

[0194] n, x and y are the same or different and represent an integer between 1 and 10,000.

[0195] The alkyl group carried by the above quaternized cellulose i) or hydroxyethylcellulose ii) preferably contains 8 to 30 carbon atoms. Aryl preferably denotes phenyl, benzyl, naphthyl or anthracenyl.

[0196] As a C8-C 30 As an example of quaternized alkylhydroxyethylcellulose of fatty chains, it is also possible to mention the product Quatrisoft LM (INCI name: Polyquaternium-24) and the product Crodacel sold by Croda (INCI name: PG-Hydroxyethylcellulose Cocoyldimonium Chloride), Crodacel (C 12 Alkyl) (INCI name: PG-Hydroxyethylcellulose Lauryldimonium Chloride) and Crodacel (C 18 Alkyl) (INCI name: PG-Hydroxyethylcellulose Stearyldimonium Chloride).

[0197] Mention may also be made of hydroxyethylcellulose of formula (Ib) in which R represents a trimethylammonium halide and R' represents a dimethyldodecylammonium halide; more preferably, R represents trimethylammonium chloride -(CH3)3N + Cl - and R' represents dimethyl dodecyl ammonium chloride -(CH3)2(C 12 H 25 )N + Cl - This type of polymer is sold under the trade name Softcat Polymer Known as SL-100, SL-60, SL-30 and SL-5 (from Amergo Corporation / The Dow Chemical Company, with the INCI name Polyquaternium-67).

[0198] More particularly, the polymer of formula (Ib) is that its viscosity is between 2000 and 3000cPs (including end value).Preferably, viscosity is between 2700 and 2800cPs (including end value).Typically, Softcat Polymer SL-5 has a viscosity of 2500cPs, Softcat Polymer SL-30 has a viscosity of 2700cPs, Softcat Polymer SL-60 has a viscosity of 2700cPs, and Softcat Polymer SL-100 has a viscosity of 2800cPs.

[0199] - (C') cationic polyvinyl lactams, in particular those comprising:

[0200] -a) at least one monomer of the vinyllactam or alkylvinyllactam type;

[0201] -b) at least one monomer of the following structure (Ic) or (IIc):

[0202]

[0203] in:

[0204] X indicates an oxygen atom or an NR6 group,

[0205] R1 and R6 independently represent a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C1-C5 alkyl group,

[0206] R2 indicates a linear or branched C1-C4 alkyl group,

[0207] R3, R4 and R5 are independently a hydrogen atom, a linear or branched C1-C 30 Alkyl or a group of formula (IIIc):

[0208] -(Y2) r -(CH2-CH(R7)-O) x -R8 (IIIc)

[0209] in:

[0210] -Y, Y1 and Y2 independently represent a linear or branched C2-C 16 Alkylene,

[0211] R7 represents a hydrogen atom, a linear or branched C1-C4 alkyl group, or a linear or branched C1-C4 hydroxyalkyl group,

[0212] R8 represents a hydrogen atom or a straight or branched C1-C 30 alkyl,

[0213] p, q and r independently indicate a value of zero or a value of 1,

[0214] m and n independently indicate an integer ranging from 0 to 100 (inclusive),

[0215] x indicates an integer ranging from 1 to 100 (inclusive),

[0216] Z indicates an anionic counterion of an organic or inorganic acid, such as a halide, for example chloride or bromide, or methanesulfonate;

[0217] The premise is:

[0218] - At least one of the substituents R3, R4, R5 or R8 indicates a linear or branched C9-C30 alkyl,

[0219] - if m or n is not zero, then q is equal to 1,

[0220] -If m or n is equal to zero, then p or q is equal to 0.

[0221] The cationic poly(vinyl lactam) polymers according to the invention may be crosslinked or non-crosslinked and may also be block polymers.

[0222] Preferably, the counterion Z of the monomer of formula (Ic) - Selected from halide ions, phosphate ions, methylsulfate ions and toluenesulfonate ions.

[0223] Preferably, R3, R4 and R5 are independently a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C1-C 30 alkyl.

[0224] More preferably, monomer b) is a monomer of formula (Ic), wherein preferably m and n are equal to zero.

[0225] The vinyl lactam or alkyl vinyl lactam monomer is preferably a compound of structure (IVc):

[0226]

[0227] wherein s indicates an integer ranging from 3 to 6; R9 indicates a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C1-C5 alkyl group, and R 10 indicates a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C1-C5 alkyl group, provided that the groups R9 and R 10 At least one of indicates a hydrogen atom.

[0228] Still more preferably, monomer (IVc) is vinylpyrrolidone.

[0229] The cationic poly(vinyl lactam) polymers according to the invention may also comprise one or more additional monomers, preferably cationic or nonionic monomers.

[0230] As particularly preferred compounds, mention may be made of the following terpolymers, which contain at least:

[0231] a) a monomer of formula (IVc),

[0232] b) a monomer of formula (Ic), wherein p=1, q=0, R3 and R4 are independently a hydrogen atom or a C1-C5 alkyl group, and R5 is a linear or branched C9-C 24 Alkyl, and

[0233] c) a monomer of the formula (IIc), in which R3 and R4 are independently a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C1-C5 alkyl group.

[0234] Still more preferably, terpolymers comprising 40 to 95% by weight of monomer (a), 0.1 to 55% of monomer (c) and 0.25 to 50% of monomer (b) will be used. Such polymers are described in particular in patent application WO-00 / 68282.

[0235] As cationic poly(vinyllactam) polymers according to the invention it is possible in particular to use:

[0236] -

[0237] Vinyl pyrrolidone / dimethylaminopropyl methacrylamide / dodecyl dimethyl methacrylamidopropyl ammonium toluenesulfonate terpolymer,

[0238] -

[0239] Vinyl pyrrolidone / dimethylaminopropyl methacrylamide / cocoyl dimethyl methacrylamidopropyl ammonium tosylate terpolymer,

[0240] -

[0241] Vinyl pyrrolidone / dimethylaminopropyl methacrylamide / lauryl dimethyl methacrylamidopropyl ammonium toluenesulfonate or ammonium chloride terpolymer.

[0242] Vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide / lauryldimethylmethacrylamidopropylammonium chloride terpolymer is marketed in particular by the company ISP under the name Styleze or Styleze (INCI name: Polyquaternium-55) is sold.

[0243] The weight-average molecular weight (Mw) of the cationic poly(vinyllactam) polymer is preferably between 500 and 20 000 000, more particularly between 200 000 and 2 000 000 and preferably between 400 000 and 800 000.

[0244] - (D') a cationic polymer obtained by polymerization of a monomer mixture comprising: one or more vinyl monomers substituted by one or more amino groups, one or more hydrophobic nonionic vinyl monomers and one or more associative vinyl monomers, as described in patent application WO 2004 / 024779.

[0245] Among these polymers, mention may more particularly be made of the polymerization products of mixtures of monomers comprising:

[0246] - di(C1-C4 alkyl)amino(C1-C6 alkyl) methacrylate,

[0247] - one or more (meth)acrylic acid C1-C 30 Alkyl esters,

[0248] -Polyethoxylated (20-25 mol of ethyleneoxy units) methacrylic acid C 10 -C 30 Alkyl esters,

[0249] -30 / 5 polyethylene glycol / polypropylene glycol allyl ether,

[0250] - hydroxy(C2-C6alkyl)methacrylate, and

[0251] -Ethylene glycol dimethacrylate.

[0252] Such polymers are marketed, for example, by the Lubrizol Corporation under the name Carbopol Aqua A compound sold and corresponding to the INCI name Polyacrylate-1 Crosspolymer.

[0253] The nonionic associative polymers are preferably chosen, alone or as a mixture:

[0254] (1) using at least one fatty chain, especially C8-C 32 And also better C 14 -C 28 Cellulose modified with groups of alkyl chains; preferably from:

[0255] - containing at least one fatty chain, especially C8-C 32 And also better C 14 -C 28 A group having an alkyl chain (such as alkyl, aralkyl or alkaryl, or a mixture thereof, wherein the alkyl group is preferably C8-C 22 Alkyl) modified hydroxyethyl cellulose, such as that sold by Ashland under the reference number Natrosol Plus Grade 330CS (C 16 alkyl) or the product Polysurf 67CS sold by Ashland,

[0256] - hydroxyethylcellulose modified with polyalkylene glycol alkylphenol ether groups, such as the product Amercell Polymer HM-1500 (polyethylene glycol (15) nonylphenol ether) sold by the company Amercell,

[0257] - and mixtures thereof.

[0258] (2) using a polyisocyanate containing at least one fatty chain, especially C8-C 32 And also better C 14 -C 28 Hydroxypropyl guar gum modified with alkyl chains, such as the product Esaflor HM 22 (C 22 Alkyl chain) and the product RE210-18 (C 14 Alkyl chain) and RE205-1(C 20 alkyl chain).

[0259] (3) Vinyl pyrrolidone and aliphatic chains, especially C8-C 32 And also better C 14 -C 28 Copolymers of hydrophobic monomers with alkyl chains. By way of example, mention may be made of:

[0260] - vinylpyrrolidone / hexadecene copolymers and in particular the products Antaron V216 or Ganex V216 sold by the company ISP;

[0261] - Vinylpyrrolidone / eicosene copolymers and in particular the products Antaron V220 or Ganex V220 sold by the company ISP.

[0262] (4) C1-C6 alkyl methacrylate or acrylate and a C8-C6 alkyl methacrylate or acrylate containing at least one fatty chain 32 And also better C 14 -C 28 Copolymers of amphiphilic monomers with alkyl chains, for example the oxyethylenated methyl acrylate / stearyl acrylate copolymer sold under the name Antil 208 by Goldschmidt.

[0263] (5) a hydrophilic methacrylate or acrylate and a hydrophilic methacrylate or acrylate containing at least one fatty chain, especially C8-C 32 And also better C 14 -C 28 Copolymers of hydrophobic monomers with alkyl chains, such as, for example, polyethylene glycol methacrylate / lauryl methacrylate copolymers.

[0264] (6) Polyurethane polyethers comprising in their chain both hydrophilic blocks (generally of a polyoxyethyleneized nature) and hydrophobic blocks (which may be solely aliphatic sequences and / or cycloaliphatic and / or aromatic sequences).

[0265] (7) having an amino plastic ether main chain (having at least one fatty chain, especially C8-C32 And also better C 14 -C 28 alkyl chains), such as the Pure Thix compounds supplied by Süd-Chemie.

[0266] Preferably, the polyether polyurethane comprises at least two lipophilic hydrocarbon chains having 8 to 30 carbon atoms separated by a hydrophilic block, which hydrocarbon chains may be side chains or chains at the ends of the hydrophilic blocks. In particular, one or more side chains may be envisaged. Furthermore, the polymer may comprise a hydrocarbon chain at one or both ends of the hydrophilic block.

[0267] The polyether polyurethanes may be multi-block, in particular in tri-block form. The hydrophobic blocks may be at each end of the chain (e.g. tri-block copolymers with a hydrophilic central block) or distributed at the ends and in the chain (e.g. multi-block copolymers). The same polymers may also be graft polymers or star polymers.

[0268] The nonionic polyether polyurethane with aliphatic chains can be a triblock copolymer whose hydrophilic block is a polyoxyethylene chain containing 50 to 1000 oxyethylene groups. These nonionic polyether polyurethanes contain urethane bonds between these hydrophilic blocks, hence the origin of the name.

[0269] By extension, these nonionic polyether polyurethanes having fatty chains also include those whose hydrophilic blocks are bonded to lipophilic blocks via other chemical bonds.

[0270] As examples of nonionic polyether polyurethanes with fatty chains that can be used in the present invention, mention may be made of Rheolate with urea functional groups sold by Rheox. Or there is 208, 204 or 212, and Acrysol RM Also mentioned are the products from Akzo with C 12 -C 14 Alkyl chain products Elfacos and with C 18 Alkyl chain products Elfacos You can also use the C 20 Alkyl chain and having urethane bonds, product DW provided at 20% solid content in water

[0271] It is also possible to use solutions or dispersions of these polymers, in particular in water or in an aqueous / alcoholic medium. As examples of such polymers, mention may be made of the polymers sold by Veyron 255, 278 and 244. Products DW 1206F and DW 1206J provided by Rohm and Haas Company may also be used.

[0272] Polyether polyurethanes which can be used according to the invention are in particular those described in the article by G. Fonnum, J. Bakke and Fk. Hansen, Colloid Polym. Sci., 271, 380-389 (1993).

[0273] Still more particularly, preference is given to using polyether polyurethanes obtainable by polycondensation of at least three compounds comprising (i) at least one polyethylene glycol containing 150 to 180 mol of ethylene oxide groups, (ii) stearyl alcohol or decanol, and (iii) at least one diisocyanate.

[0274] Such polyether polyurethanes are marketed in particular by Rohm and Haas under the name Aculyn and Aculyn Sales [Aculyn Aculyn is a polycondensate of polyethylene glycol with 150 or 180 mol of ethyleneoxy groups, stearyl alcohol and methylenebis(4-cyclohexyl isocyanate) (SMDI), 15% by weight in a matrix of maltodextrin (4%) and water (81%); It is a polycondensate of polyethylene glycol having 150 or 180 mol of ethyleneoxy groups, decanol and methylenebis(4-cyclohexyl isocyanate) (SMDI), 35% by weight in a mixture of propylene glycol (39%) and water (26%).

[0275] Preferably, the composition comprises one or more nonionic associative polymers, preferably chosen from polyether polyurethanes.

[0276] Preferably, the associative polymer is present in the composition in a total content ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% to 1.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0277] Preferably, the nonionic associative polymer is present in the composition in a total content ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% to 1.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0278] Preferably, the nonionic associative polymer chosen from polyether polyurethanes is present in the composition in a total content ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% to 1.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0279] Silicone

[0280] The composition used according to the invention may optionally comprise one or more silicones, which may in particular be chosen from aminated silicones, non-aminated silicones and mixtures thereof.

[0281] The composition according to the invention may therefore comprise one or more non-aminated silicones which may be solid or liquid, preferably liquid (at 25° C., 1 atm), and volatile or non-volatile.

[0282] The non-aminated silicones that can be used may be soluble or insoluble in the compositions according to the invention; they may be provided in the form of oils, waxes, resins or gums; silicone oils and gums are preferred.

[0283] Silicones are described in particular detail in the book Chemistry and Technology of Silicones by Walter Noll (1968), Academic Press.

[0284] The volatile silicones may be chosen from those having a boiling point between 60° C. and 260° C. (at atmospheric pressure), and in particular from:

[0285] i) Cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes containing 3 to 7 and preferably 4 to 5 silicon atoms, such as

[0286] - octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane (D4) and decamethylcyclopentasiloxane (D5). Mention may be made of the products sold under the name Volatile Silicone 7207 by Union Carbide or under the name Silbione 70045V 2 by Rhodia, Volatile Silicone 7158 by Union Carbide or under the name Silbione 70045V 5 by Rhodia;

[0287] - Cyclic copolymers of dimethylsiloxane / methylalkylsiloxane type having the following chemical structure:

[0288]

[0289] Mention may be made of Volatile Silicone FZ 3109 sold by Union Carbide;

[0290] - mixtures of cyclic silicones with organic compounds derived from silicon, such as a mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and tetratrimethylsilylpentaerythritol (50 / 50) and a mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and 1,1′-oxy(2,2,2′,2′,3,3′-hexatrimethylsilyloxy)bisneopentane;

[0291] ii) a linear polydialkylsiloxane having 2 to 9 silicon atoms, which generally has an average molecular weight of less than or equal to 5.10 at 25°C. -6 m 2 / s viscosity, such as decamethyltetrasiloxane.

[0292] Other silicones belonging to this category are described in the article Volatile Silicone Fluids for Cosmetics by Todd & Byers, Cosmetics and Toiletries, Vol. 91, January 1976, pp. 27-32; mention may be made of the product sold under the name SH 200 by Toray Silicone.

[0293] Among the non-volatile silicones, mention may be made, alone or as a mixture, of polydialkylsiloxanes and in particular polydimethylsiloxanes (polydimethylsiloxane / PDMS or dimethicone), polydiarylsiloxanes, polyalkylarylsiloxanes, silicone gums and resins; and also non-aminated organopolysiloxanes (or organomodified polysiloxanes, or also organomodified silicones), which are polysiloxanes comprising in their structure one or more non-aminated organic functional groups, generally attached via hydrocarbon radicals and preferably chosen from aryl, alkoxy and polyoxyethylene and / or polyoxypropylene radicals.

[0294] The organomodified silicones may be polydiarylsiloxanes, in particular polydiphenylsiloxanes, and polyalkylarylsiloxanes functionalized with the abovementioned organofunctional groups. The polyalkylarylsiloxanes are in particular selected from linear and / or branched polydimethyl / methylphenylsiloxanes or polydimethyl / diphenylsiloxanes.

[0295] Among the organomodified silicones, mention may be made of organopolysiloxanes, including:

[0296] - polyoxyethylene and / or polyoxypropylene, which optionally contain C6-C 24Alkyl groups such as dimethicone copolyols and in particular those sold under the name DC 1248 by Dow Corning or oils from Union Carbide L 722, L 7500, L 77 and L 711; or (C 12 ) alkyl methicone copolyols, and in particular those sold under the name Q2-5200 by Dow Corning;

[0297] - thiol groups, such as the products sold under the names GP 72A and GP 71 by Genesee;

[0298] - alkoxylated groups, such as the product sold under the name Silicone Copolymer F-755 by SWS Silicones and Abil Silicone Copolymer sold by Goschmidt 2428, 2434 and 2440;

[0299] - hydroxylated groups, such as polyorganosiloxanes with hydroxyalkyl functional groups;

[0300] - acyloxyalkyl groups, such as polyorganosiloxanes described in US Pat. No. 4,957,732;

[0301] - anionic groups of the carboxylic acid type, as described, for example, in EP 186 507, or of the alkylcarboxylic acid type, such as the product X-22-3701E from Shin-Etsu, or also of the 2-hydroxyalkylsulfonate or 2-hydroxyalkylthiosulfate type, such as those produced by Goschmidt under the name S201 and Products sold by S255.

[0302] The silicones may also be chosen from polydialkylsiloxanes, among which mention may be made mainly of polydimethylsiloxanes with trimethylsilyl end groups (CTFA: polydimethicone). Among these polydialkylsiloxanes, mention may be made of the following commercial products:

[0303] - 47 and 70 047 series sold by Rhodia Oil or Oil, such as, for example, oil 70 047V 500 000;

[0304] - Marketed by Rhodia Series of oils;

[0305] - Oils of the 200 series from Dow Corning, such as those with 60 000 mm 2 / s viscosity DC200;

[0306] - From General Electric oils, and certain oils from the SF series (SF 96, SF 18) from General Electric.

[0307] Mention may also be made of polydimethylsiloxanes having dimethylsilanol end groups (CTFA: dimethiconol), such as the oils of the 48 series from the company Rhodia.

[0308] Among this class of polydialkylsiloxanes, mention may also be made of the polydialkylsiloxanes marketed under the name Abil 9800 and 9801 are products sold as polydimethylsiloxane (C1-C 20 )Alkyl siloxane.

[0309] Products that can be used more particularly according to the invention are mixtures such as:

[0310] - mixtures of polydimethylsiloxanes hydroxylated at the chain ends, or dimethiconol (CTFA), and cyclic polydimethylsiloxanes also known as cyclomethicone (CTFA), such as the product Q2-1401 sold by the company Dow Corning.

[0311] Polyalkylaryl siloxanes are particularly selected from those having a relative humidity at 25°C in the range of 1.10 -5 to 5.10 -2 m 2 / s linear and / or branched polydimethyl / methylphenyl siloxane or polydimethyl / diphenyl siloxane having a viscosity of 1.1777 W / s.

[0312] Among these polyalkylaryl siloxanes, mention may be made of the products sold under the following names:

[0313] - 70 641 series from Rhodia Oil;

[0314] -From Rhodia 70 Oils of the 633 and 763 series;

[0315] - oil from Dow Corning 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid;

[0316] - Silicones from the PK series from Bayer, such as the product PK20;

[0317] - Silicones from the PN and PH series from Bayer, such as the products PN1000 and PH1000;

[0318] - Certain oils from the SF series from General Electric, such as SF 1023, SF 1154, SF 1250 or SF 1265.

[0319] A non-aminated silicone which is very particularly preferred according to the invention is polydimethylsiloxane with trimethylsilyl end groups (CTFA: dimethicone).

[0320] The composition according to the invention may comprise one or more aminated silicones.

[0321] The term "aminated silicone" denotes any silicone comprising at least one primary, secondary or tertiary amine or a quaternary ammonium group.

[0322] The aminated silicones that can be used according to the invention can be volatile or nonvolatile and cyclic, linear or branched and preferably have a carbonyl group at 25° C. in the range of 5×10 -6 Up to 2.5m 2 / s, for example 1×10 -5 Up to 1m 2 / s viscosity.

[0323] Preferably, the aminated silicones are selected from the following compounds, either individually or as a mixture:

[0324] A) a polysiloxane corresponding to formula (I):

[0325]

[0326] wherein x' and y' are integers such that the weight-average molecular weight (Mw) is between 5000 and 500 000 g / mol;

[0327] B) aminated silicones corresponding to formula (II):

[0328] R' a G 3-a -Si(OSiG2) n -(OSiG b R' 2-b ) m -O-SiG 3-a’ -R' a’ (II)

[0329] in:

[0330] -G are the same or different and indicate a hydrogen atom or a phenyl group, OH, a C1-C8 alkyl group such as a methyl group, or a C1-C8 alkoxy group such as a methoxy group;

[0331] - a and a' are identical or different and represent 0 or an integer from 1 to 3, in particular 0, with the proviso that at least one of a and a' is equal to zero,

[0332] -b indicates 0 or 1, especially 1,

[0333] - m and n are numbers such that the sum of (n+m) varies from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 50 to 150, n possibly indicating a number from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149, and m possibly indicating a number from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 1 to 10; and

[0334] -R' is the same or different, indicating the formula -C q H 2q L is a monovalent group, wherein q is a number ranging from 2 to 8, and L is an optionally quaternized amino group selected from the following groups: -NR"-QN(R")2, -N(R")2, -N + (R”)3A - 、-N + H(R”)2A - 、-N + H2(R”)A - 、-NR”-QN + (R”)H2 A - 、-NR”-QN + (R”)2H A - and-NR"-QN + (R”)3A - , wherein R" are the same or different, indicating hydrogen, phenyl, benzyl or a saturated monovalent hydrocarbon group, such as C1-C 20 Alkyl; Q indicates formula C r H 2r A linear or branched group, r is an integer ranging from 2 to 6, preferably 2 to 4; and A - denotes a cosmetically acceptable anion, in particular a halide, such as fluoride, chloride, bromide or iodide.

[0335] Preferably, the aminated silicone of formula (II) may be selected from:

[0336] (i) "Trimethylsilylaminodimethicone" silicone corresponding to formula (III):

[0337]

[0338] wherein m and n are numbers such that the sum of (n+m) varies from 1 to 2000, preferably from 20 to 1000, in particular from 50 to 600, better still from 50 to 150; n may indicate a number from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149, and m may indicate a number from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 1 to 10;

[0339] (ii) Silicone of the following formula (IV):

[0340]

[0341] in:

[0342] - m and n are numbers such that the sum of (n+m) varies from 1 to 1000, in particular from 50 to 250 and more particularly from 100 to 200; n indicates a number from 0 to 999, in particular from 49 to 249 and more particularly from 125 to 175, and m indicates a number from 1 to 1000, in particular from 1 to 10 and more particularly from 1 to 5; and

[0343] - R1, R2 and R3 are the same or different and represent a hydroxyl group or a C1-C4 alkoxy group, at least one of the groups R1 to R3 represents an alkoxy group.

[0344] Preferably, the alkoxy group is methoxy.

[0345] The hydroxyl / alkoxy molar ratio preferably ranges from 0.2:1 to 0.4:1 and preferably from 0.25:1 to 0.35:1 and more particularly is equal to 0.3:1.

[0346] The weight-average molecular weight (Mw) of these silicones preferably ranges from 2000 to 1 000 000 g / mol and more particularly from 3500 to 200 000 g / mol.

[0347] (iii) Silicone of the following formula (V):

[0348]

[0349] in:

[0350] - p and q are numbers such that the sum of (p+q) varies from 1 to 1000, in particular from 50 to 350 and more particularly from 150 to 250; p indicates a number from 0 to 999, in particular from 49 to 349 and more particularly from 159 to 239, and q indicates a number from 1 to 1000, in particular from 1 to 10 and more particularly from 1 to 5; and

[0351] - R1 and R2 are different and represent a hydroxyl group or a C1-C4 alkoxy group, and at least one of the groups R1 or R2 represents an alkoxy group.

[0352] Preferably, the alkoxy group is methoxy.

[0353] The hydroxyl / alkoxy molar ratio generally ranges from 1:0.8 to 1:1.1 and preferably from 1:0.9 to 1:1 and is more particularly equal to 1:0.95.

[0354] The weight average molecular weight (Mw) of the silicone preferably ranges from 2000 to 200 000 g / mol, more preferably from 5000 to 100 000 g / mol and in particular from 10 000 to 50 000 g / mol.

[0355] Commercial products containing silicones of structure (IV) or (V) may contain in their composition one or more other aminated silicones having a structure different from that of formula (IV) or (V). Products containing aminated silicones of structure (IV) are marketed by Wacker under the name ADM 652 is provided. Products containing aminated silicones of structure (V) are marketed by Wacker under the name Fluid WR Another product containing aminated silicone of structure (XIV) is marketed by Wacker under the name Belsil ADM LOG supply.

[0356] When using these aminated silicones, a particularly advantageous embodiment is their use in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion. The oil-in-water emulsion may contain one or more surfactants. The surfactant may be of any nature, but is preferably cationic and / or nonionic. The number average size of the silicone particles in the emulsion is generally in the range of 3 nm to 500 nm. Preferably, in particular as aminated silicone of formula (V), a microemulsion is used whose average size of the particles is in the range of 5 nm to 60 nm (limit values ​​included) and more particularly 10 nm to 50 nm (limit values ​​included). Thus, according to the invention, it is possible to use a microemulsion manufactured by Wacker under the name Finish CT 96 or SLM Provided are microemulsions of aminated silicones of formula (V).

[0357] (iv) Silicone of the following formula (VI):

[0358]

[0359] in:

[0360] - m and n are numbers such that the sum of (n+m) varies from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 50 to 150, n indicates a number from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149, and m indicates a number from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 1 to 10; and

[0361] -A indicates a linear or branched alkylene group having 4 to 8 carbon atoms and preferably 4 carbon atoms. This group is preferably linear.

[0362] The weight-average molecular weight (Mw) of these aminated silicones preferably ranges from 2000 to 1 000 000 g / mol and more particularly from 3500 to 200 000 g / mol.

[0363] A silicone corresponding to this formula is, for example, Xiameter MEM 8299 emulsion from Dow Corning.

[0364] (v) Silicones of the following formula (VII):

[0365]

[0366] in:

[0367] - m and n are numbers such that the sum of (n+m) varies from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 50 to 150, n possibly indicating a number from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149, and m possibly indicating a number from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 1 to 10; and

[0368] -A indicates a straight or branched alkylene group having 4 to 8 carbon atoms and preferably 4 carbon atoms. This group is preferably branched.

[0369] The weight-average molecular weight (Mw) of these aminated silicones preferably ranges from 500 to 1 000 000 g / mol and more particularly from 1000 to 200 000 g / mol.

[0370] A silicone corresponding to this formula is, for example, DC2-8566 Amino Fluid from Dow Corning;

[0371] C) aminated silicones corresponding to formula (VIII):

[0372]

[0373] in:

[0374] - R5 represents a monovalent hydrocarbon group having 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular C1-C 18 Alkyl or C2-C 18 alkenyl, such as methyl;

[0375] -R6 represents a divalent hydrocarbon group connected to Si via a SiC bond, especially a C1-C 18 Alkylene or divalent C1-C 18 For example, C1-C8 alkyleneoxy;

[0376] -Q - is an anion, such as a halide, especially chloride, or an organic acid salt, especially acetate;

[0377] -r represents the average statistical value ranging from 2 to 20, especially from 2 to 8;

[0378] and

[0379] -s indicates an average statistical value ranging from 20 to 200, especially from 20 to 50;

[0380] D) Silicones with quaternary ammonium of formula (IX):

[0381]

[0382] in:

[0383] - R7 are the same or different and represent a monovalent hydrocarbon group having 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular C1-C 18 Alkyl, C2-C 18 alkenyl or a ring containing 5 or 6 carbon atoms, such as methyl;

[0384] -R6 represents a divalent hydrocarbon group connected to Si via a SiC bond, especially a C1-C 18 Alkylene or divalent C1-C 18 For example, C1-C8 alkyleneoxy;

[0385] - R8 are the same or different and represent a hydrogen atom, a monovalent hydrocarbon group having 1 to 18 carbon atoms, in particular a C1-C 18 Alkyl or C2-C 18 an alkenyl group, or a -R6-NHCOR7 group;

[0386] -X - is an anion, such as a halide, especially chloride, or an organic acid salt, especially acetate; and

[0387] -r represents an average statistical value ranging from 2 to 200, specifically 5 to 100.

[0388] These silicones are described, for example, in application EP-A-0 530 974; mention may in particular be made of the silicone with the following INCI name: Quaternium 80.

[0389] Silicones belonging to this category are those sold by the company Goldschmidt under the names Abil Quat 3270, Abil Quat 3272 and Abil Quat 3474;

[0390] E) Aminated silicone of formula (X):

[0391]

[0392] in:

[0393] - R1, R2, R3 and R4 are the same or different, indicating C1-C4 alkyl or phenyl,

[0394] -R5 indicates a C1-C4 alkyl group or a hydroxyl group,

[0395] -n is an integer ranging from 1 to 5,

[0396] -m is an integer varying from 1 to 5, and

[0397] - x is selected so that the amine value varies from 0.01 to 1 meq / g;

[0398] F)(AB) n A multi-block polyoxyalkylene aminated silicone of the type A is a polysiloxane block and B is a polyoxyalkylene block containing at least one amine group.

[0399] The silicone is preferably composed of repeating units having the following general formula:

[0400] [-(SiMe2O) x SiMe2-RN(R”)-R'-O(C2H4O) a (C3H6O) b -R'-N(H)-R-] or otherwise

[0401] [-(SiMe2O) x SiMe2-RN(R”)-R'-O(C2H4O) a (C3H6O) b -]

[0402] in:

[0403] - a is an integer greater than or equal to 1, preferably ranging from 5 to 200 and more particularly ranging from 10 to 100;

[0404] - b is an integer between 0 and 200, preferably ranging from 4 to 100 and more particularly between 5 and 30;

[0405] - x is an integer ranging from 1 to 10 000 and more particularly from 10 to 5000;

[0406] -R" is a hydrogen atom or a methyl group;

[0407] -R are the same or different, representing a straight or branched divalent C2-C 12 A hydrocarbon group, which optionally contains one or more heteroatoms such as oxygen; preferably, R is the same or different and indicates an ethylene group, a linear or branched propylene group, a linear or branched butylene group or a CH2CH2CH2OCH2CH(OH)CH2- group; preferably, R indicates a CH2CH2CH2OCH2CH(OH)CH2- group; and

[0408] -R' is the same or different, indicating a straight or branched divalent C2-C 12A hydrocarbon group, which optionally contains one or more heteroatoms such as oxygen; preferably, R' is the same or different, indicating an ethylene group, a linear or branched propylene group, a linear or branched butylene group or a CH2CH2CH2OCH2CH(OH)CH2- group; preferably, R' indicates -CH(CH3)-CH2-.

[0409] The siloxane blocks preferably represent from 50 mol% to 95 mol%, more particularly from 70 mol% to 85 mol%, of the total weight of the silicone.

[0410] The amine content is preferably between 0.02 and 0.5 meq / g of the copolymer in a 30% solution in dipropylene glycol, more particularly between 0.05 and 0.2.

[0411] The weight-average molecular weight (Mw) of the silicone is preferably between 5000 and 1 000 000 g / mol and more particularly between 10 000 and 200 000 g / mol.

[0412] Mention may in particular be made of the silicones sold under the name Silsoft A-843 or Silsoft A+ by the company Momentive;

[0413] G) Aminated silicones of formula (XI) and (XII):

[0414]

[0415] in:

[0416] - R, R' and R" are the same or different, indicating C1-C4 alkyl or hydroxyl,

[0417] -A indicates a C3 alkylene group; and

[0418] - m and n are numbers such that the weight-average molecular weight of the compound is between 5000 and 500 000;

[0419]

[0420] in:

[0421] - x and y are numbers ranging from 1 to 5000; preferably, x ranges from 10 to 2000 and more preferably from 100 to 1000; preferably, y ranges from 1 to 100;

[0422] - R1 and R2 are identical or different, preferably identical, indicating a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon group containing 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 24 carbon atoms and more preferably 12 to 20 carbon atoms; and

[0423] -A indicates a straight or branched alkylene group having 2 to 8 carbon atoms.

[0424] Preferably, A contains 3 to 6 carbon atoms, more preferably 4 carbon atoms; preferably, A is branched. The following divalent groups may be mentioned in particular: -CH2CH2CH2- and -CH2CH(CH3)CH2-.

[0425] Preferably, R1 and R2 are independently saturated straight-chain alkyl groups containing from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 24 carbon atoms and in particular from 12 to 20 carbon atoms; mention may in particular be made of dodecyl, tetradecyl, pentadecyl, hexadecyl, heptadecyl, octadecyl, nonadecyl and eicosyl; and preferably, R1 and R2 are identical or different and are chosen from hexadecyl (cetyl) and octadecyl (stearyl).

[0426] Preferably, in the silicone of formula (XII):

[0427] -x ranges from 10 to 2000 and in particular from 100 to 1000;

[0428] -y ranges from 1 to 100;

[0429] -A contains 3 to 6 carbon atoms and in particular 4 carbon atoms; preferably, A is branched; more particularly, A is selected from the following divalent groups: -CH2CH2CH2 and -CH2CH(CH3)CH2-; and

[0430] - R1 and R2 are independently saturated straight-chain hydrocarbon radicals containing 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 24 carbon atoms and in particular 12 to 20 carbon atoms; in particular chosen from dodecyl, tetradecyl, pentadecyl, hexadecyl, heptadecyl, octadecyl, nonadecyl and eicosyl; preferably, R1 and R2 are identical or different, chosen from hexadecyl (cetyl) and octadecyl (stearyl).

[0431] A preferred silicone of formula (XII) is bis-cetearyl amodimethicone. Mention may in particular be made of the aminated silicones sold under the name Silsoft AX by the company Momentive;

[0432] H) Polysiloxanes which contain primary amine groups only at one chain end or in side chains and in particular polydimethylsiloxanes, such as those of the formula (XIV), (XV) or (XVI):

[0433]

[0434] H2NCH2CH2CH2-Si(CH3)2-O-[Si(CH3)2-O] n -Si(CH3)2C4H9 (XV)

[0435]

[0436] In formula (XIV), the values ​​of n and m are such that the weight average molecular weight of the aminated silicone is between 1,000 and 55,000.

[0437] As examples of aminated silicones of formula (XIV), mention may be made of the products sold under the names AMS-132, AMS-152, AMS-162, AMS-163, AMS-191 and AMS-1203 by Gelest and under the name KF-8015 by Shin-Etsu.

[0438] In formula (XV), the value of n is such that the weight average molecular weight of the aminated silicone is between 500 and 3,000.

[0439] As examples of aminated silicones of formula (XV), mention may be made of the products sold under the names MCR-A11 and MCR-A12 by the company Geister.

[0440] In formula (XVI), the values ​​of n and m are such that the weight-average molecular weight of the aminated silicone is between 500 and 50,000.

[0441] As example of aminated silicone of formula (XVI), mention may be made of aminopropylphenyl trimethicone sold under the name DC 2-2078 Fluid by the company Dow Corning.

[0442] The cosmetic composition according to the invention may also comprise as silicone an aminated silicone corresponding to the following formula (XVIII):

[0443]

[0444] in:

[0445] - n is a number between 1 and 1000, preferably between 10 and 500, better still between 25 and 100, even better still between 50 and 80;

[0446] - m is a number between 1 and 200, preferably between 1 and 100, better still between 1 and 10 and even better still between 1 and 5;

[0447] - R"' are identical or different, preferably identical, and are saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon radicals containing 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 24 carbon atoms, in particular 12 to 18 carbon atoms; said radicals may optionally be substituted by one or more hydroxyl OH groups;

[0448] - R' is a linear or branched divalent alkylene group having 1 to 6 carbon atoms, in particular 2 to 5 carbon atoms;

[0449] -R" is a linear or branched divalent alkylene group having 1 to 6 carbon atoms, particularly 1 to 5 carbon atoms.

[0450] Preferably, the R"' groups are identical or different and are saturated straight-chain hydrocarbon groups containing 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 24 carbon atoms, in particular 12 to 18 carbon atoms; mention may be made in particular of dodecyl, tridecyl, tetradecyl, pentadecyl, hexadecyl, heptadecyl and octadecyl groups; preferably, the R"' groups are identical or different and are chosen from saturated straight-chain alkyl groups having 12 to 16 carbon atoms, in particular they are C 13 , C 14 or C 15 groups (alone or in mixed form), and also better represent C 13 , C 14 and C 15 A mixture of groups.

[0451] Preferably, the R'" groups are identical.

[0452] Preferably, R' is a straight-chain or branched, preferably branched, divalent alkylene group containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms, especially 2 to 5 carbon atoms; especially a -CH2-CH2-CH2-, -CH2-CH(CH3)-CH2- or -CH2-CH2-CH(CH3)- group.

[0453] Preferably, R" is a straight-chain divalent alkylene group containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms, in particular 1 to 4 carbon atoms, especially a -CH2-CH2- group.

[0454] Preferably, the composition may comprise one or more silicones of formula (XVIII), wherein:

[0455] -n is a number between 50 and 80;

[0456] -m is a number between 1 and 5;

[0457] -R"' are the same and are saturated straight chain hydrocarbon groups containing 12 to 18 carbon atoms;

[0458] -R' is a divalent alkylene group having 2 to 5 carbon atoms;

[0459] -R" is a straight-chain divalent alkylene group having 1 to 4 carbon atoms.

[0460] Even better, the composition may comprise one or more silicones of formula (XVIII) in which:

[0461] -n is a number between 50 and 80;

[0462] -m is a number between 1 and 5;

[0463] -R"' are the same and are saturated straight chain hydrocarbon groups containing 13 to 15 carbon atoms;

[0464] -R' is a -(CH2)3-, -CH2-CH(CH3)-CH2- or -CH2-CH2-CH(CH3)- group, and

[0465] -R" is a -(CH2)2- group.

[0466] A very particularly preferred silicone of formula (XVIII) is bis(C13-15 alkoxy) PG-amodimethicone (INCI name). Mention may in particular be made of the silicone sold by Dow under the name Dowsil 8500 conditioner.

[0467] Preferably, the aminated silicones are selected, alone or as a mixture:

[0468] - aminated silicones of formula (II), preferably those in which G indicates a C1-C8-alkyl group and a=a'=0; very particularly preferred silicones of formula (II) are aminopropyl polydimethylsiloxanes, such as those sold under the name X-22-9686 by Shin-Etsu;

[0469] - a silicone having a quaternary ammonium group of the above formula (IX);

[0470] -aminated silicones of the above formula (XVIII), in particular those wherein n is a number between 50 and 80; m is a number between 1 and 5; R'' are identical and are saturated straight-chain hydrocarbon groups containing 13 to 15 carbon atoms; R' is a -(CH2)3-, -CH2-CH(CH3)-CH2- or -CH2-CH2-CH(CH3)- group, and R" is a -(CH2)2- group.

[0471] Advantageously, the composition used according to the invention may contain a total content of silicone preferably ranging from 0.3% to 5% by weight, better still from 0.5% to 4% by weight, preferably from 0.6% to 3% by weight and more preferably from 0.7% to 2.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0472] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention may contain a total content of aminated silicone preferably ranging from 0.3% to 5% by weight, better still from 0.5% to 4% by weight, preferably from 0.6% to 3% by weight and more preferably from 0.7% to 2.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0473] Cationic surfactants

[0474] The compositions for use according to the invention may optionally comprise one or more cationic surfactants.

[0475] The cationic surfactants are non-silicone surfactants, that is to say they do not contain Si-O groups.

[0476] They are preferably chosen from optionally polyoxyalkylenated primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amines or their salts, quaternary ammonium salts, and mixtures thereof.

[0477] The composition may comprise one or more cationic surfactants selected, alone or as a mixture, from the following compounds which are quaternary ammonium salts:

[0478] -Compounds corresponding to the following general formula (II):

[0479]

[0480] in:

[0481] X - is an anion in particular selected from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, (C1-C4)alkylsulfates, (C1-C4)alkylsulfonates or (C1-C4)alkylarylsulfonates;

[0482] The radicals R1 to R4 may be identical or different and represent a linear or branched aliphatic radical containing 1 to 30 carbon atoms, or an aromatic radical such as an aryl radical or an alkylaryl radical, at least one of the radicals R1 to R4 indicating a linear or branched aliphatic radical containing 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 12 to 24 carbon atoms.

[0483] These aliphatic groups may contain heteroatoms, such as, in particular, oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and halogen. 30 Alkyl, C1-C 30 Alkoxy, polyoxy (C2-C6) alkylene, C1-C 30 Alkylamide, (C 12 -C 22 )alkylamido (C2-C6)alkyl, (C 12 -C 22 ) alkyl acetate and C1-C 30 Hydroxyalkyl.

[0484] Among the quaternary ammonium salts of formula (II), preference is given to tetraalkylammonium salts, such as dialkyldimethylammonium or alkyltrimethylammonium salts, in which the alkyl group contains about 12 to 22 carbon atoms, in particular behenyltrimethylammonium, distearyldimethylammonium, cetyltrimethylammonium or benzyldimethylstearylammonium salts, and also palmitylamidopropyltrimethylammonium salts, stearylamidopropyltrimethylammonium salts, stearylamidopropyldimethylcetostearylammonium salts or stearylamidopropyldimethyl(myristyl acetate)ammonium salts, such as those marketed under the name 70 of those sold.

[0485] Particular preference is given to using the chlorides, bromides or methylsulfates of these compounds.

[0486] - quaternary ammonium salts of imidazolines, such as those of formula (III):

[0487]

[0488] wherein R5 represents an alkenyl or alkyl group containing 8 to 30 carbon atoms, such as an alkenyl or alkyl group derived from tallow fatty acid, R6 represents a hydrogen atom, a C1-C4 alkyl group or an alkyl or alkenyl group containing 8 to 30 carbon atoms, R7 represents a C1-C4 alkyl group, R8 represents a hydrogen atom or a C1-C4 alkyl group, and X - is an anion selected from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, alkyl sulfates, alkyl sulfonates or alkyl aryl sulfonates (the alkyl and aryl groups preferably contain 1 to 20 carbon atoms and 6 to 30 carbon atoms, respectively).

[0489] Preferably, R5 and R6 denote a mixture of alkenyl or alkyl groups containing 12 to 21 carbon atoms, such as alkenyl or alkyl groups derived from tallow fatty acid, R7 denotes a methyl group and R8 denotes a hydrogen atom.

[0490] Such products are sold, for example, by the company Rewo under the name W 75 sales;

[0491] - a di- or tri-quaternary ammonium salt, in particular a di- or tri-quaternary ammonium salt of formula (IV):

[0492]

[0493] in:

[0494] R9 denotes an alkyl group containing approximately 16 to 30 carbon atoms, which is optionally hydroxylated and / or optionally interrupted by one or more oxygen atoms,

[0495] R 10 is selected from hydrogen or an alkyl group containing 1 to 4 carbon atoms or (R 9a )(R10a )(R 11a )N-(CH2)3 group, where R 9a , R 10a , R 11a , R 11 , R 12 , R 13 and R 14 are identical or different and are selected from hydrogen or an alkyl group containing 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and

[0496] X - is an anion selected from the group consisting of halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, (C1-C4)alkyl sulfates, (C1-C4)alkyl sulfonates and (C1-C4)alkyl aryl sulfonates, in particular methyl sulfate and ethyl sulfate.

[0497] Such compounds are, for example, Finquat CT-P (quaternary ammonium salt 89) provided by Finetex, and Finquat CT (quaternary ammonium salt 75) provided by Finetex;

[0498] - quaternary ammonium salts containing at least one ester function, such as those of the following formula (V):

[0499]

[0500] in:

[0501] R 15 Selected from C1-C6 alkyl and C1-C6 hydroxyalkyl or dihydroxyalkyl;

[0502] R 16 Selected from R 19 -C(O)- group; R 20 The group is a saturated or unsaturated, straight chain or branched C1-C 22 Hydrocarbon group; Hydrogen atom;

[0503] R 18 Selected from R 21 -C(O)- group; R 22 The group is a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C1-C6 hydrocarbon group; a hydrogen atom;

[0504] R 17 , R 19 and R 21 are the same or different, selected from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C7-C 21 Hydrocarbon;

[0505] r, s and t are the same or different and are integers having a value from 2 to 6;

[0506] y is an integer having a value from 1 to 10;

[0507] x and z are the same or different and are integers having a value from 0 to 10;

[0508] X - are simple or complex organic or inorganic anions;

[0509] The premise is that the sum of x+y+z has a value from 1 to 15, and when the value of x is 0, then R 16 Indicator R 20 , and when the value of z is 0, then R 18 Indicator R 22 .

[0510] Alkyl R 15 R may be linear or branched, and more particularly linear. 15 Indicates methyl, ethyl, hydroxyethyl or dihydroxypropyl, and more particularly methyl or ethyl.

[0511] Advantageously, the sum of x+y+z has a value of 1 to 10.

[0512] When R 16 is a hydrocarbon group R 20 When it is present, it can be long and have 12 to 22 carbon atoms or short and have 1 to 3 carbon atoms.

[0513] When R 18 is a hydrocarbon group R 22 When , it preferably has 1 to 3 carbon atoms.

[0514] Advantageously, R 17 , R 19 and R 21 are the same or different, selected from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C 11 -C 21 Hydrocarbyl and more particularly saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C 11 -C 21 Alkyl and alkenyl.

[0515] Preferably, x and z are identical or different and have a value of 0 or 1.

[0516] Advantageously, y is equal to 1.

[0517] Preferably, r, s and t are identical or different, have a value of 2 or 3 and more particularly still equal to 2.

[0518] Anion X -Preferred are halides (chloride, bromide or iodide) or alkyl sulfates, more particularly methyl sulfate. However, methanesulfonate, phosphate, nitrate, toluenesulfonate, anions derived from organic acids (such as acetate or lactate), or any other anion compatible with ammonium having an ester function may be used. Anion X - Still more particular are chloride or methyl sulfate.

[0519] In the compositions according to the invention it is more particularly possible to use ammonium salts of formula (V) in which R 15 indicates methyl or ethyl, x and y are equal to 1, z is equal to 0 or 1, and r, s and t are equal to 2;

[0520] R 16 Selected from R 19 -C(O)- group, methyl, ethyl or C 14 -C 22 a hydrocarbon group, and a hydrogen atom;

[0521] R 18 Selected from R 21 -C(O)- groups and hydrogen atoms;

[0522] R 17 , R 19 and R 21 are the same or different, selected from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C 13 -C 17 The hydrocarbon group is preferably a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C 13 -C 17 Alkyl and alkenyl.

[0523] Advantageously, these hydrocarbon groups are straight-chain.

[0524] For example, compounds of formula (V) may be mentioned, such as diacyloxyethyl dimethyl ammonium, diacyloxyethyl hydroxyethyl methyl ammonium, monoacyloxyethyl dihydroxyethyl methyl ammonium, triacyloxyethyl methyl ammonium and monoacyloxyethyl hydroxyethyl dimethyl ammonium salts (especially chlorides or methyl sulfates), and mixtures thereof. These acyl groups preferably have 14 to 18 carbon atoms and are more particularly derived from vegetable oils, such as palm oil or sunflower oil. When the compound contains several acyl groups, these groups may be identical or different.

[0525] These products are prepared, for example, by reacting triethanolamine, triisopropanolamine, alkyldiethanolamine or alkyldiisopropanolamine (which are optionally oxyalkylened) with C 10 -C 30 Fatty acids or C 10 -C 30The fatty acids are obtained by direct esterification of a mixture of fatty acids or by transesterification of their methyl esters. This esterification is followed by quaternization using an alkylating agent such as an alkyl (preferably methyl or ethyl) halide, a dialkyl (preferably dimethyl or diethyl) sulfate, methyl methanesulfonate, methyl p-toluenesulfonate, ethylene chloride or chloroglycerol.

[0526] Such compounds are marketed, for example, by Henkel under the name Sold by Stepan under the name Sold by CECA under the name Sold or sold by Rewo-Witco under the name Sold by WE 18.

[0527] The compositions according to the invention may contain, for example, mixtures of quaternary ammonium monoesters, diesters and triester salts, of which the majority by weight are diester salts.

[0528] It is also possible to use ammonium salts containing at least one ester function as described in patents US Pat. No. 4,874,554 and US Pat. No. 4,137,180.

[0529] Behenyl hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride supplied by Kao Corporation (Kao) under the name Quatarmin BTC 131 may be used.

[0530] Preferably, the ammonium salt containing at least one ester function contains two ester functions.

[0531] Among the quaternary ammonium salts comprising at least one ester function that can be used, preference is given to using dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium salt.

[0532] "Fatty amine" is understood to mean a amine group containing at least one primary, secondary or tertiary amine function (which may be (poly)oxyalkylenated) and containing at least one C6-C 30 , preferably C8-C 30 A hydrocarbon chain compound, or a salt thereof.

[0533] Preferably, the fatty amines used according to the invention are not (poly)oxyalkylenated.

[0534] As fatty amines, mention may be made of amidoamines. The amidoamines according to the invention may be chosen from fatty amidoamines, it being possible for the fatty chain to be carried by an amine group or an amide group.

[0535] "Amidoamine" is understood to mean a compound comprising at least one amide function and at least one primary, secondary or tertiary amine function.

[0536] "Fatty amidoamine" is understood to mean a fatty amine generally comprising at least one C6-C 30 Hydrocarbon-chain amidoamines. Preferably, the fatty amidoamines used according to the invention are not quaternized.

[0537] Preferably, the fatty amidoamines used according to the invention are not (poly)oxyalkylenated.

[0538] Among the fatty amidoamines used according to the invention, mention may be made of the amidoamines of the following formula (VI): RCONHR"N(R')2(VI)

[0539] in:

[0540] -R represents a substituted or unsubstituted, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched monovalent hydrocarbon radical having 5 to 29 carbon atoms, preferably 7 to 23 carbon atoms, and in particular a linear or branched C5-C 29 , preferably C7-C 23 Alkyl, or linear or branched C5-C 29 , preferably C7-C 23 alkenyl;

[0541] -R" represents a divalent hydrocarbon radical having less than 6 carbon atoms, preferably 2 to 4 carbon atoms and better still 3 carbon atoms; and

[0542] - R' is the same or different and represents a substituted or unsubstituted, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched monovalent hydrocarbon group having less than 6 carbon atoms, preferably 1 to 4 carbon atoms, preferably methyl;

[0543] The fatty amidoamine of formula (VI) is selected from, for example, oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine (particularly commercialized by Inolex Chemical Company under the name Lexamine S13 sales products), isostearamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidoethyl dimethylamine, lauroamidopropyl dimethylamine, myristamidopropyl dimethylamine, behenamidopropyl dimethylamine, dilinoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, castor oilamidopropyl dimethylamine, soybean oilamidopropyl dimethylamine, avocado oilamidopropyl dimethylamine, cocoamidopropyl dimethylamine, mink oilamidopropyl dimethylamine, oatamidopropyl dimethylamine, sesameamidopropyl dimethylamine, tall oilamidopropyl dimethylamine, olive oilamidopropyl dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidoethyldiethylamine, rapeseed oilamidopropyl dimethylamine and mixtures thereof.

[0544] Preferably, the fatty amidoamine is selected from oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, rapeamidopropyl dimethylamine and mixtures thereof.

[0545] The cationic surfactants are preferably chosen from those of formula (II), those of formula (V), those of formula (VI) and mixtures thereof; better still from those of formula (II) and / or formula (VI); even better still from those of formula (II).

[0546] Preferably, the cationic surfactant may be chosen from tetraalkylammonium salts, such as chlorides, bromides or methylsulfates, such as, for example, dialkyldimethylammonium or alkyltrimethylammonium salts, wherein the alkyl group contains about 12 to 22 carbon atoms, in particular behenyltrimethylammonium, distearyldimethylammonium, cetyltrimethylammonium or benzyldimethylstearylammonium salts; dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium salts, such as dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium methylsulfate, and mixtures thereof.

[0547] Still more preferably, they are chosen from cetyltrimonium chloride, behenyltrimonium chloride and dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium methylsulfate, and mixtures thereof.

[0548] When they are present, the total content of cationic surfactants in the composition according to the invention preferably ranges from 0.1% to 10% by weight, in particular from 0.2% to 8% by weight, better still from 0.3% to 7% by weight, even better still from 0.5% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0549] In a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the weight ratio of the total content of the cationic surfactant to the total content of the amino acid type compound is greater than or equal to 1.

[0550] Cationic polymers

[0551] The composition used according to the invention may optionally comprise one or more cationic polymers other than the associative polymers described above. Thus, the cationic polymer(s) are non-associative.

[0552] “Cationic polymer” is understood to mean any non-silicone polymer (polymer not comprising silicon atoms) containing cationic groups and / or groups which can be ionized to give cationic groups and no anionic groups and / or groups which can be ionized to give anionic groups.

[0553] The cationic polymers that can be used preferably have a cationic charge density less than or equal to 5 milliequivalents per gram (meq / g), better still less than or equal to 4 meq / g.

[0554] The cationic charge density of a polymer corresponds to the number of moles of cationic charges per unit weight of the polymer under conditions where the polymer is completely ionized. If the structure of the polymer (i.e. the structure of the monomers constituting the polymer and their molar or weight proportions) is known, the cationic charge density can be determined by calculation. The cationic charge density can also be determined experimentally by the Kjeldahl method.

[0555] The cationic polymers that can be used preferably have a molecular weight of about 500 and 5.10 6 Between, preferably about 10 3 With 3.10 6 The weight average molar mass (Mw) between.

[0556] The cationic polymers that can be used are preferably non-associative.

[0557] Among the cationic polymers that can be used, mention may be made of:

[0558] (1) A homopolymer or copolymer derived from an ester or amide of acrylic acid or methacrylic acid and comprising at least one of the units having the formula:

[0559]

[0560] in:

[0561] - R3 are the same or different, indicating a hydrogen atom or a CH3 group;

[0562] -A is the same or different and represents a linear or branched divalent alkyl group having 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably 2 or 3 carbon atoms, or a hydroxyalkyl group having 1 to 4 carbon atoms;

[0563] - R4, R5 and R6 are identical or different and represent an alkyl group having 1 to 18 carbon atoms or a benzyl group, preferably an alkyl group having 1 to 6 carbon atoms;

[0564] - R1 and R2 are identical or different and represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group having 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably a methyl group or an ethyl group;

[0565] -X indicates an anion derived from an inorganic or organic acid, such as a methylsulfate anion or a halide ion such as chloride or bromide.

[0566] The copolymers of family (1) may additionally contain one or more units derived from comonomers which may be selected from the family of acrylamide, methacrylamide, diacetone acrylamide, acrylamides and methacrylamides substituted on the nitrogen by lower (C1-C4) alkyl groups, esters of acrylic acid or methacrylic acid, vinyl lactams (such as vinyl pyrrolidone or vinyl caprolactam), and vinyl esters.

[0567] Among the copolymers of these families (1), mention may be made of:

[0568] - copolymers of acrylamide and dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with dimethyl sulfate or with dimethyl halide, such as those sold under the name Hercofloc by Hercules,

[0569] - copolymers of acrylamide and methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride, such as those sold under the name Bina Quat P 100 by Ciba-Geigy,

[0570] - copolymers of acrylamide and methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium methylsulfate, such as those sold under the name Reten by the company Hercules,

[0571] - quaternized or nonquaternized vinylpyrrolidone / dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate or methacrylate copolymers, such as the products sold under the name Gafquat by the company ISP, such as, for example, Gafquat 734 or Gafquat 755, or the products otherwise known as copolymers 845, 958 and 937,

[0572] - dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate / vinyl caprolactam / vinyl pyrrolidone terpolymer, such as the product sold under the name Gaffix VC 713 by the company ISP,

[0573] - vinylpyrrolidone / methacrylamidopropyldimethylamine copolymers, such as those sold under the name Styleze CC 10 by the company ISP,

[0574] - quaternized vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide copolymers, such as the product sold under the name Gafquat HS100 by the company ISP,

[0575] - polymers of methacryloyloxy(C1-C4)alkyltri(C1-C4)alkylammonium salts, preferably crosslinked polymers, such as those obtained by homopolymerization of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with methyl chloride or copolymerization of acrylamide and dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with methyl chloride, the homopolymerization or copolymerization being followed by crosslinking with ethylenically unsaturated compounds, in particular methylenebisacrylamide. It is more particularly possible to use a crosslinked acrylamide / methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride copolymer (20 / 80 by weight) in the form of a dispersion containing 50% by weight of said copolymer in mineral oil. This dispersion is manufactured by Ciba under the name SC 92. Crosslinked methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride homopolymers containing about 50% by weight of homopolymer in mineral oil or in liquid esters may also be used. These dispersions are marketed by Ciba under the name SC 95 and SC 96 sold;

[0576] (2) Cationic polysaccharides, especially cationic cellulose and cationic galactomannan gum.

[0577] Among the cationic polysaccharides, mention may more particularly be made of cellulose ether derivatives comprising quaternary ammonium groups, cationic cellulose copolymers, cellulose derivatives grafted with water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomers and cationic galactomannan gums.

[0578] Cellulose ether derivatives comprising quaternary ammonium groups are described in particular in FR 1 492 597; they are also defined in the CTFA dictionary as quaternary ammoniums of hydroxyethylcellulose which have been reacted with an epoxide substituted with a trimethylammonium group.

[0579] Mention may in particular be made of the polymers sold under the name Ucare Polymer JR (JR 400LT, JR 125 and JR 30M) or LR (LR 400 and LR 30M) by the company Amergo.

[0580] Cationic cellulose copolymers and cellulose derivatives grafted with water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomers are described in particular in patent US 4 131 576; hydroxyalkylcelluloses such as hydroxymethyl, hydroxyethyl or hydroxypropylcellulose grafted in particular with methacryloylethyltrimethylammonium, methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium or dimethyldiallylammonium salts may be mentioned. Quite particularly crosslinked or non-crosslinked quaternized hydroxyethylcellulose may be mentioned, the quaternizing agent possibly being in particular diallyldimethylammonium chloride; and very particularly hydroxyethylcellulose hydroxypropyltrimethylammonium.

[0581] Among the commercial products corresponding to this definition, mention may be made of the products sold under the names Celquat L 200 and Celquat H 100 by National Starch.

[0582] As particularly preferred cationic celluloses, mention may in particular be made of the polymers having the INCI name Polyquaternium-10.

[0583] Cationic galactomannan gums are described in particular in patents US 3 589 578 and US 4 031 307; mention may be made of cationic guar gums, in particular those containing cationic trialkylammonium groups, in particular trimethylammonium groups. Mention may thus be made of guar gums modified with 2,3-epoxypropyltrimethylammonium salts (eg chloride).

[0584] Preferably, 2% to 30% by number of the hydroxyl functions of the guar gum carry cationic trialkylammonium groups. Still more preferably, 5% to 20% by number of the hydroxyl functions of these guar gums are branched with cationic trialkylammonium groups. Among these trialkylammonium groups, mention may very particularly be made of trimethylammonium groups and triethylammonium groups. Still more preferably, these groups represent 5% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the modified guar gum. According to the invention, a guar gum modified with 2,3-epoxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride can be used.

[0585] Mention may in particular be made of the products having the INCI names Hydroxypropyl Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride and Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride. Such products are sold in particular by Solvay under the names Jaguar C13S, Jaguar C15, Jaguar C17 and Jaguar C162.

[0586] Among the cationic polysaccharides that can be used, mention may also be made of the cationic derivatives of cassia gum, in particular those comprising quaternary ammonium groups; mention may especially be made of the product with the INCI name cinnamyl hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride;

[0587] (3) polymers composed of piperazinyl units and divalent alkylene or hydroxyalkylene groups having linear or branched chains, which may be optionally interrupted by oxygen, sulfur or nitrogen atoms or by aromatic or heterocyclic rings; and also oxidation and / or quaternization products of these polymers;

[0588] (4) water-soluble polyaminoamides, in particular prepared by polycondensation of acidic compounds with polyamines; these polyaminoamides may be crosslinked with epihalohydrins, diepoxides, dianhydrides, unsaturated dianhydrides, diunsaturated derivatives, dihalohydrins, diazotidinium, dihaloacyldiamines, dialkyl halides or else with oligomers resulting from the reaction of difunctional compounds reactive with dihalohydrins, diazotidinium, dihaloacyldiamines, dialkyl halides, epihalohydrins, diepoxides or diunsaturated derivatives; the crosslinking agents are used in a proportion of 0.025 to 0.35 mol per amine group of the polyaminoamide; these polyaminoamides may be alkylated or, if they contain one or more tertiary amine functions, they may be quaternized;

[0589] (5) Polyaminoamide derivatives resulting from the condensation of polyalkylenepolyamines with polycarboxylic acids, followed by alkylation with difunctional reagents. Mention may be made, for example, of adipic acid / dialkylaminohydroxyalkyldialkylenetriamine polymers, in which the alkyl group contains from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and preferably indicates a methyl, ethyl or propyl group. Among these derivatives, mention may be made more particularly of the adipic acid / dimethylaminohydroxypropyl / diethylenetriamine polymers sold under the name Cartaretine F, F4 or F8 by Sandoz;

[0590] (6) Polymers obtained by reaction of polyalkylenepolyamines containing two primary amine groups and at least one secondary amine group with dicarboxylic acids selected from diglycolic acid and saturated aliphatic dicarboxylic acids having 3 to 8 carbon atoms; the molar ratio of polyalkylenepolyamine to dicarboxylic acid is preferably between 0.8:1 and 1.4:1; the polyaminoamide resulting therefrom is reacted with epichlorohydrin in a molar ratio of epichlorohydrin relative to the secondary amine groups of the polyaminoamide of preferably between 0.5:1 and 1.8:1. Polymers of this type are sold in particular by Hercosett 57 or, in the case of adipic acid / epoxypropyl / diethylenetriamine copolymers, by Hercosett PD 170 or Delsette 101.

[0591] (7) Cyclized polymers of alkyldiallylamine or dialkyldiallylammonium, such as homopolymers or copolymers containing as the main components of the chain the units corresponding to formula (I) or (II):

[0592]

[0593] in:

[0594] -k and t are equal to 0 or 1, and the sum of k+t is equal to 1;

[0595] -R 12Indicates a hydrogen atom or a methyl group;

[0596] -R 10 and R 11 independently of one another, indicate C1-C6 alkyl, C1-C5 hydroxyalkyl, C1-C4 amidoalkyl; or in addition, R 10 and R 11 Together with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached, heterocyclic groups such as piperidinyl or morpholinyl may be indicated; R 10 and R 11 Independently of each other, preferably indicate C1-C4 alkyl;

[0597] -Y - It is an anion such as bromide, chloride, acetate, borate, citrate, tartrate, bisulfate, bisulfite, sulfate or phosphate.

[0598] Mention may be made more particularly of homopolymers of diallyl dimethylammonium salt (for example the chloride) (INCI name: Polyquaternium-6), for example sold under the name Merquat 100 by Nalco, and of copolymers of diallyl dimethylammonium salt (for example the chloride) and of acrylamide (INCI name: Polyquaternium-7), sold in particular under the names Merquat 550 or Merquat 7 SPR;

[0599] (8) A diquaternary ammonium polymer comprising repeating units of the formula:

[0600]

[0601] in:

[0602] -R 13 , R 14 , R 15 and R 16 are the same or different and represent an aliphatic, alicyclic or arylaliphatic group containing 1 to 20 carbon atoms, or a C1-C 12 Hydroxyalkyl aliphatic group;

[0603] Or another R 13 , R 14 , R 15 and R 16 together or separately with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached, form a heterocyclic ring optionally comprising a second heteroatom in addition to nitrogen;

[0604] Or another R 13 , R 14 , R 15 and R 16 Indicates nitrile, ester, acyl, amide or -CO-OR 17-D or -CO-NH-R 17 -D group substituted straight or branched C1-C6 alkyl, wherein R 17 is an alkylene group and D is a quaternary ammonium group;

[0605] -A1 and B1 represent a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, divalent polymethylene group containing 2 to 20 carbon atoms and which may contain one or more aromatic rings or one or more oxygen atoms or sulfur atoms or sulfoxide, sulfone, disulfide, amino, alkylamino, hydroxyl, quaternary ammonium, urea, amide or ester groups bound to or inserted into the main chain, and

[0606] -X - Indicates anions derived from inorganic or organic acids;

[0607] It should be understood that A1, R 13 and R 15 can form a piperazine ring with the two nitrogen atoms to which they are attached;

[0608] Furthermore, if A1 indicates a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alkylene or hydroxyalkylene group, B1 may also indicate -(CH2) n -CO-D-OC-(CH2) p - group, in which n and p are identical or different, are integers varying from 2 to 20, and D indicates:

[0609] a) a diol residue of the formula -OZO-, in which Z indicates a linear or branched hydrocarbon radical or a radical corresponding to one of the following formulae: -(CH2CH2O) x -CH2CH2- and -[CH2CH(CH3)O] y -CH2CH(CH3)-, wherein x and y indicate integers from 1 to 4 (indicating a defined and unique degree of polymerization); or indicate any number from 1 to 4 (indicating an average degree of polymerization);

[0610] b) di-secondary diamine residues, such as piperazine derivatives;

[0611] c) a bis-primary diamine residue of the formula -NH-Y-NH-, wherein Y indicates a linear or branched hydrocarbon radical, or another divalent radical -CH2-CH2-SS-CH2-CH2-;

[0612] d) a ureidene group of the formula -NH-CO-NH-.

[0613] Preferably, X - These polymers have a number-average molar mass (Mn) generally between 1000 and 100 000.

[0614] Mention may more particularly be made of polymers composed of recurring units corresponding to the following formula:

[0615]

[0616] wherein R1, R2, R3 and R4 are the same or different, indicate an alkyl group or a hydroxyalkyl group having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, n and p are integers varying from 2 to 20, and X - It is an anion derived from an inorganic or organic acid.

[0617] Particularly preferred compounds of formula (IV) are those in which R1, R2, R3 and R4 represent methyl, n=3, p=6 and X=Cl, which are known as Hexadimethrine Chloride according to the INCI (CTFA) nomenclature.

[0618] (9) Polyquaternary ammonium polymers comprising units of formula (V):

[0619]

[0620] in:

[0621] -R 18 , R 19 , R 20 and R 21 are the same or different and represent a hydrogen atom or a methyl group, an ethyl group, a propyl group, a β-hydroxyethyl group, a β-hydroxypropyl group or -CH2CH2(OCH2CH2) p OH group, wherein p is equal to 0 or an integer between 1 and 6, provided that R 18 , R 19 , R 20 and R 21 Not all hydrogen atoms are represented at the same time.

[0622] -r and s are the same or different and are integers between 1 and 6,

[0623] -q is equal to 0 or an integer between 1 and 34,

[0624] -X - Indicator anions, such as halides,

[0625] -A indicates a divalent dihalide group or preferably represents -CH2-CH2-O-CH2-CH2-.

[0626] Mention may be made, for example, of the product sold by Miranol A15, AD1, AZ1 and 175;

[0627] (10) Quaternary polymers of vinylpyrrolidone and vinylimidazole, such as those marketed by BASF under the name Products sold for FC 905, FC 550 and FC 370;

[0628] (11) Polyamines, such as those sold by Cognis H, which is mentioned in the CTFA dictionary by the name polyethylene glycol (15) tallow polyamine;

[0629] (12) A polymer comprising in its structure:

[0630] (a) one or more units corresponding to the following formula (A):

[0631]

[0632] (b) optionally one or more units corresponding to the following formula (B):

[0633]

[0634] In other words, these polymers may be chosen in particular from homopolymers or copolymers comprising one or more units deriving from vinylamine and optionally one or more units deriving from vinylformamide.

[0635] Preferably, these cationic polymers are chosen from polymers comprising in their structure 5 to 100 mol % of units corresponding to formula (A) and 0 to 95 mol % of units corresponding to formula (B), preferably 10 to 100 mol % of units corresponding to formula (A) and 0 to 90 mol % of units corresponding to formula (B).

[0636] These polymers can be obtained, for example, by partial hydrolysis of polyvinylformamide. This hydrolysis can take place in an acidic or alkaline medium.

[0637] The weight average molecular weight of the polymer measured by light scattering may range from 1000 to 3 000 000 g / mol, preferably from 10 000 to 1 000 000 g / mol, and more particularly from 100 000 to 500 000 g / mol.

[0638] Polymers comprising units of formula (A) and optionally units of formula (B) are in particular those sold under the name Lupamin by the company BASF, such as, for example and in a non-limiting manner, the products sold under the names Lupamin 9095, Lupamin 5095, Lupamin 1095, Lupamin 9030 (or Luviquat 9030) and Lupamin 9010.

[0639] Preferably, the cationic polymers that can be used in the context of the present invention are chosen, alone or as a mixture, from polymers of family (1); cationic polysaccharides, in particular cationic cellulose, such as polyquaternium-10; cationic galactomannan gums, in particular cationic guar gum; and also mixtures thereof.

[0640] When they are present, the compositions according to the invention may comprise a total amount of cationic polymers ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.05% to 5% by weight, even better still from 0.1% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0641] When they are present, the composition according to the invention may comprise a total amount of cationic polysaccharides ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.05% to 5% by weight and even better still from 0.1% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0642] Nonionic polysaccharides

[0643] The composition used according to the invention may optionally comprise one or more nonionic polysaccharides other than the associative polymers described above. Thus, this or these nonionic polysaccharides are non-associative.

[0644] The nonionic polysaccharide is preferably selected from (alone or as a mixture) cellulose, starch, galactomannan and nonionic derivatives thereof, in particular ethers or esters thereof.

[0645] These polymers may be physically or chemically modified. As physical treatment, mention may be made of temperature, and as chemical treatment, mention may be made of esterification, etherification, amidation and oxidation reactions, as long as these treatments make it possible to produce nonionic polymers.

[0646] As galactomannans that can be used, mention may be made of nonionic guar gums which may be modified with (poly)hydroxy(C1-C6)alkyl groups, in particular hydroxymethyl, hydroxyethyl, hydroxypropyl and hydroxybutyl groups.

[0647] These guar gums are known from the prior art and can be prepared, for example, by reacting the corresponding alkylene oxides, such as, for example, cyclopropane, with guar gum to give guar gums modified with hydroxypropyl groups.

[0648] The degree of hydroxyalkylation preferably varies from 0.4 to 1.2 and corresponds to the number of alkylene oxide molecules consumed by the number of free hydroxyl functions present on the guar gum.

[0649] Such nonionic guar gums, optionally modified with hydroxyalkyl groups, are sold, for example, by Rhodia Chimie under the trade names Jaguar HP8, Jaguar HP60, Jaguar HP120, Jaguar HP105 SGI and Jaguar HP8 SGI.

[0650] The starch molecules that can be used in the present invention can have cereals or also tubers as plant origin. Thus, the starch is selected from, for example, corn starch, rice starch, tapioca starch, barley starch, potato starch, wheat starch, sorghum starch or pea starch. The starch can be chemically or physically modified, in particular, by one or more of the following reactions: pregelatinization, oxidation, crosslinking, esterification, etherification, amidation or heat treatment.

[0651] The starch molecule can be produced from any plant source of starch, such as corn, potato, oat, rice, cassava, sorghum, barley or wheat in particular. It is also possible to use the hydrolysates of the starch mentioned above. The starch is preferably produced from potato.

[0652] Nonionic polysaccharides may also be polysaccharides that do not contain C 10 -C 30 A cellulose-based polymer of fatty chains.

[0653] According to the invention, a "cellulose-based" polymer is understood to mean any polysaccharide compound having in its structure a sequence of glucose residues linked together by β-1,4 bonds; the cellulose-based polymer may be a derivative of unsubstituted cellulose, and / or nonionic cellulose.

[0654] Thus, the cellulose-based polymers that can be used according to the invention can be chosen from unsubstituted cellulose, including cellulose in microcrystalline form, and cellulose ethers. Among these cellulose-based polymers, a distinction is made between cellulose ethers, cellulose esters and cellulose ether / esters.

[0655] Among the nonionic cellulose ethers, mention may be made of (C1-C4)alkylcelluloses, such as methylcellulose and ethylcellulose (e.g. Ethocel Standard 100 Premium from The Dow Chemical Company); (poly)hydroxy(C1-C4)alkylcelluloses, such as hydroxymethylcellulose, hydroxyethylcellulose (e.g. Natrosol 250 HHR supplied by Aqualon) and hydroxypropylcellulose (e.g. Klucel EF from Aqualon); mixed (poly)hydroxy(C1-C4)alkyl(C1-C4)alkylcelluloses, such as hydroxypropylmethylcellulose (e.g. Methocel E4M from The Dow Chemical Company), hydroxyethylmethylcellulose, hydroxyethylethylcellulose (e.g. Bermocoll E 481 FQ from Akzo Nobel) and hydroxybutylmethylcellulose.

[0656] Preferably, the nonionic polysaccharide is chosen, alone or as a mixture, from cellulose, galactomannans and nonionic derivatives thereof, in particular their ethers; and better still, alone or as a mixture, from nonionic guar gum optionally modified with (poly)hydroxy(C1-C6)alkyl, in particular hydroxypropyl; and / or substituted or unsubstituted cellulose, and cellulose ethers, such as (C1-C4)alkylcellulose and (poly)hydroxy(C1-C4)alkylcellulose.

[0657] Preferably, the nonionic polysaccharides are chosen, alone or as a mixture, from nonionic guar gums optionally modified with (poly)hydroxy(C1-C6)alkyl groups, in particular hydroxypropyl groups (INCI name: Hydroxypropyl Guar).

[0658] When they are present, the composition according to the invention may comprise a total amount of nonionic polysaccharides ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.05% to 5% by weight and even better still from 0.1% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0659] When they are present, the composition according to the invention may comprise a total amount ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.05% to 5% by weight, even better still from 0.1% to 2% by weight of nonionic polysaccharides chosen from cellulose, galactomannans and their nonionic derivatives (in particular their ethers) and mixtures thereof, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0660] In a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention may comprise one or more cationic polymers and one or more nonionic polysaccharides; in particular one or more cationic polysaccharides and one or more nonionic polysaccharides; better still one or more cationic polysaccharides selected from cationic guar gum and cationic cellulose, and one or more nonionic guar gums.

[0661] Nonionic surfactants

[0662] The compositions for use according to the invention may optionally comprise one or more nonionic surfactants.

[0663] As examples of nonionic surfactants, mention may be made of the following compounds, alone or as a mixture:

[0664] -oxyalkylene (C8-C 24 ) alkylphenol;

[0665] - saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyalkylenated or glycerolated C8-C 40 alcohols; they preferably contain one or two fatty chains;

[0666] - saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyalkylened C8 to C 30 Fatty acid amides;

[0667] - saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, C8 to C 30 Esters of acids and polyethylene glycols;

[0668] - saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, C8 to C 30 Esters of an acid and sorbitol, which are preferably oxyethylidened;

[0669] - Esters of fatty acids and sucrose;

[0670] - optionally oxyalkylenated alkyl (poly)glycosides (0 to 10 oxyalkylene units), which may contain 1 to 15 glucose units;

[0671] - saturated or unsaturated oxyethylenated vegetable oils;

[0672] - condensation products of ethyleneoxy and / or propyleneoxy;

[0673] -N-(C8-C 30 ) alkyl glucosamine and N-(C8-C 30 ) acylmethylglucosamine derivatives;

[0674] -Amine oxides.

[0675] These oxyalkylene units are more particularly oxyethylene units or oxypropylene units, or a combination thereof, preferably oxyethylene units.

[0676] The number of moles of ethyleneoxy and / or propyleneoxy preferably ranges from 1 to 250, more particularly from 2 to 100 and better still from 2 to 50; the number of moles of glycerol ranges particularly from 1 to 50 and better still from 1 to 10.

[0677] Advantageously, the nonionic surfactants according to the invention do not comprise oxypropylene units.

[0678] Preferably, they contain a number of moles ranging from 1 to 250, in particular from 2 to 100 and better still from 2 to 50, of ethyleneoxy groups.

[0679] As an example of a glycerolated nonionic surfactant, preferably a monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated C8 to C600 surfactant containing 1 to 50 mol of glycerol, and preferably 1 to 10 mol of glycerol, is used. 40 alcohol.

[0680] Mention may be made of lauryl alcohol with 4 mol of glycerol (INCI name: POLYGLYCERYL-4 LAURYL ETHER), lauryl alcohol with 1.5 mol of glycerol, oleyl alcohol with 4 mol of glycerol (INCI name: POLYGLYCERYL-4 OLYL ETHER), oleyl alcohol with 2 mol of glycerol (INCI name: POLYGLYCERYL-2 OLYL ETHER), cetearyl alcohol with 2 mol of glycerol, cetearyl alcohol with 6 mol of glycerol, oleyl / cetyl alcohol with 6 mol of glycerol and stearyl alcohol with 6 mol of glycerol.

[0681] Among the glycerolated alcohols, it is particularly preferred to use C8 to C 10 Alcohol, C with 1 mol of glycerol 10 To C 12 alcohol and C with 1.5 mol glycerol 12 alcohol.

[0682] Nonionic surfactants of the alkyl (poly)glycoside type can be represented in particular by the following general formula: R1O-(R2O) t -(G) v ,in:

[0683] - R1 represents a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl group containing 6 to 24 carbon atoms, in particular 8 to 18 carbon atoms, or an alkylphenyl group whose linear or branched alkyl group contains 6 to 24 carbon atoms, in particular 8 to 18 carbon atoms;

[0684] - R2 represents an alkylene group containing 2 to 4 carbon atoms;

[0685] -G represents a sugar unit containing 5 to 6 carbon atoms;

[0686] -t indicates a value ranging from 0 to 10, preferably from 0 to 4;

[0687] -v indicates a value ranging from 1 to 15, preferably 1 to 4.

[0688] Preferably, the alkyl (poly)glycoside surfactant is a compound of the above formula, wherein:

[0689] -R1 indicates a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alkyl group containing 8 to 18 carbon atoms,

[0690] - R2 represents an alkylene group containing 2 to 4 carbon atoms,

[0691] -t indicates a value ranging from 0 to 3, preferably equal to 0,

[0692] -G indicates glucose, fructose or galactose, preferably glucose,

[0693] The degree of polymerization, ie the v value, may range from 1 to 15, preferably from 1 to 4; the average degree of polymerization is more particularly between 1 and 2.

[0694] The glucoside bonds between the sugar units are usually of the 1-6 or 1-4 type, preferably of the 1-4 type. Preferably, the alkyl (poly) glycoside surfactant is an alkyl (poly) glucoside surfactant. Very particularly preferred are C8 / C 16 Alkyl (poly)glucosides, and in particular decyl glucoside and capryl / decyl glucoside.

[0695] Among the commercial products, mention may be made of the product manufactured by Corning Inc. under the name (600CS / U, 1200 and 2000) or (818, 1200 and 2000); and by SEPPIC under the names Oramix CG 110 and The product sold under the name Lutensol NS 10; the product sold under the name Lutensol GD 70 by the company BASF or also the product sold under the name AG10 LK by the company Chem Y.

[0696] Preferably, 1-4 types of C8 / C are used. 16 Alkyl (poly)glycosides, especially in the form of a 53% aqueous solution, such as those sold by Corning under the reference number Those sold by 818UP.

[0697] The nonionic surfactants used in the compositions according to the invention are preferably selected, alone or as a mixture:

[0698] - saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyethylidene C8 to C 40 alcohols which contain 1 to 100 mol of ethyleneoxy groups, preferably 2 to 50 mol of ethyleneoxy groups and more particularly 2 to 40 mol of ethyleneoxy groups; they preferably contain one or two fatty chains;

[0699] - saturated or unsaturated oxyethylenated vegetable oils containing 1 to 100 mol and preferably 2 to 50 mol of ethyleneoxy groups;

[0700] -(C8-C 30 ) alkyl (poly) glycosides, which are optionally oxyalkylened, preferably have 0 to 10 mol of ethyleneoxy groups and contain 1 to 15 glucose units;

[0701] - Mono- or poly-glycerolated C8 to C 40 Alcohol containing 1 to 50 mol of glycerol, preferably 1 to 10 mol of glycerol;

[0702] - saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyalkylened C8 to C 30 Fatty acid amides;

[0703] - saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, C8 to C 30 Esters of acids and polyethylene glycols;

[0704] - saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, C8 to C 30 Esters of an acid and sorbitol, which are preferably oxyethylidened;

[0705] More preferably, the nonionic surfactants used in the composition according to the invention are chosen, alone or as a mixture:

[0706] - saturated or unsaturated, straight chain or branched, oxydeoxylated C8 to C 40 Alcohols containing 1 to 100 mol of ethyleneoxy groups, preferably 2 to 50 mol of ethyleneoxy groups and more particularly 2 to 40 mol of ethyleneoxy groups and containing one or two fatty chains, particularly at least one C8-C 20 , especially C 10 -C 18 Alkyl chain;

[0707] - saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, C8 to C 30 Esters of an acid and sorbitol, which are preferably oxyethylidened; and

[0708] -(C8-C 30 )alkyl (poly)glucosides, which are optionally oxyalkylened, preferably contain 0 to 10 mol of ethyleneoxy groups and contain 1 to 15 glucose units.

[0709] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises a total content of nonionic surfactants ranging from 0.05% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.2% to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition according to the invention.

[0710] Fatty substances

[0711] The composition used according to the invention may optionally comprise one or more non-silicone fatty substances which may be chosen from solid fatty substances, liquid fatty substances and mixtures thereof.

[0712] “Non-silicone fatty substances” are understood to mean fatty substances which do not contain Si—O bonds.

[0713] "Solid fatty matter" is understood to mean a substance having a solid mass under atmospheric pressure (1.013 x 10 5 Fatty substances having a melting point at 100 °C Pa greater than 25 °C, preferably greater than or equal to 28 °C, preferably greater than or equal to 30 °C.

[0714] Advantageously, the solid fatty substances that can be used according to the invention are neither (poly)oxyalkylenated nor (poly)glycerolated.

[0715] The solid fatty substances may be chosen from solid fatty acids, solid fatty alcohols, solid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols, waxes and ceramides, and mixtures thereof.

[0716] "Fatty acid" is understood to mean a carboxylic acid having a long chain containing 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 30 carbon atoms. The solid fatty acid according to the present invention preferably contains 10 to 30 carbon atoms and also better 14 to 22 carbon atoms. These fatty acids are neither oxyalkylene nor glycerolated. The solid fatty acid that can be used for the present invention is particularly selected from myristic acid, cetyl acid, stearic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, lauric acid, behenic acid and mixtures thereof. The fatty acid is different from the (poly) hydroxylated carboxylic acid containing 2 to 8 carbon atoms described above.

[0717] "Fatty alcohol" is understood to mean an aliphatic alcohol having a long chain containing 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 30 carbon atoms, and containing at least one hydroxyl group OH. These fatty alcohols are neither oxyalkylened nor glycerolated. Solid fatty alcohols can be saturated or unsaturated and linear or branched, and they contain 8 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 30 carbon atoms, better still 12 to 30 carbon atoms. Preferably, solid fatty alcohols have the structure R-OH, in which R indicates a linear alkyl group optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups, the alkyl group containing 8 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 30 carbon atoms, better still 12 to 30 carbon atoms, indeed even 12 to 24 carbon atoms and even better still 14 to 22 carbon atoms. The solid fatty alcohols that can be used are preferably chosen from saturated linear or branched, preferably saturated and linear (monohydric) alcohols containing from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, better still from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, indeed even from 12 to 24 carbon atoms and better still from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.

[0718] The solid fatty alcohols that can be used can be chosen, alone or as a mixture:

[0719] -Myristyl alcohol (or 1-tetradecanol);

[0720] - Cetyl alcohol (or 1-hexadecanol);

[0721] - Stearyl alcohol (or 1-octadecyl alcohol);

[0722] -Arachidyl alcohol (or 1-eicosanol);

[0723] -Behenyl alcohol (or 1-docosanol);

[0724] - wood wax alcohol (or 1-tetracosanol);

[0725] -Ceryl alcohol (or 1-hexacosanol);

[0726] -Mondanol (or 1-octacosanol);

[0727] - Beeswax alcohol (or 1-triacontanol).

[0728] Preferably, the solid fatty alcohol is selected from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol and mixtures thereof, such as cetylstearyl alcohol or cetearyl alcohol. Particularly preferably, the solid fatty alcohol is selected from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol or mixtures thereof, such as cetearyl stearyl alcohol; still better, the solid fatty alcohol is cetyl stearyl alcohol.

[0729] The solid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols that can be used are preferably selected from the group consisting of C9-C26 Fatty carboxylic acids and / or C9-C 26 Esters of fatty alcohols.

[0730] Preferably, the solid fatty esters are esters of saturated linear or branched carboxylic acids containing at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 30 carbon atoms and more particularly 12 to 24 carbon atoms and saturated linear or branched monohydric alcohols containing at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 30 carbon atoms and more particularly 12 to 24 carbon atoms. The saturated carboxylic acids may optionally be hydroxylated and are preferably monocarboxylic acids.

[0731] You can also use C4-C 22 Dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and C1-C 22 Esters of alcohols and mono-, di- or tri-carboxylic acids and di-, tri-, tetra- or pentahydroxylated C2-C 26 Esters of alcohols.

[0732] Mention may in particular be made of octyldodecyl behenate, isocetyl behenate, cetyl lactate, stearyl octanoate, octyl octanoate, cetyl octanoate, decyl oleate, hexyl stearate, octyl stearate, myristyl stearate, cetyl stearate, stearyl stearate, octyl pelargonate, cetyl myristate, myristyl myristate, stearyl myristate, diethyl sebacate, diisopropyl sebacate, diisopropyl adipate, di-n-propyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, dioctyl maleate, octyl palmitate, myristyl palmitate, cetyl palmitate, stearyl palmitate, and mixtures thereof.

[0733] Preferably, the solid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols are selected from palmitic acid C9-C 26 Alkyl esters, especially myristyl palmitate, cetyl palmitate or stearyl palmitate; myristic acid C9-C 26 Alkyl esters such as cetyl myristate, stearyl myristate, and myristyl myristate; and stearic acid C9-C 26 Alkyl esters, particularly myristyl stearate, cetyl stearate and stearyl stearate; and mixtures thereof.

[0734] Particularly preferably, the solid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols are selected from myristyl stearate, myristyl palmitate and mixtures thereof.

[0735] Within the meaning of the present invention, a wax is a lipophilic compound which is solid at 25° C. and atmospheric pressure, has a reversible solid / liquid state change, has a melting point greater than about 40° C. and the melting point range can be up to 200° C., and exhibits an anisotropic crystalline structure in the solid state. Generally, the size of the wax crystals is such that these crystals diffract and / or scatter light, giving a cloudy, substantially opaque appearance to the composition containing them. When the wax is brought to its melting point, it is possible to miscible it with the oil and form a microscopically homogeneous mixture, but when the temperature of the mixture is returned to ambient temperature, a recrystallization of the wax is obtained, which is microscopically and macroscopically detectable (opalescence).

[0736] In particular, the waxes suitable for the invention may be chosen from waxes of animal, vegetable or mineral origin, non-silicone synthetic waxes and mixtures thereof.

[0737] Mention may be made in particular of hydrocarbon waxes, such as beeswax or modified beeswax (cera bellina), lanolin wax and lanolin derivatives, spermaceti; cork fiber or sugar cane wax, olive wax, rice bran wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, carnauba wax, phragmites wax, berry wax, shellac wax, Japan wax and sumac wax; absolute waxes of flowers; montan wax, orange wax and lemon wax, microcrystalline wax, paraffin wax, vaseline, lignite and ozokerite; polyethylene waxes, waxes and wax copolymers obtained by Fischer-Tropsch synthesis, and also esters thereof.

[0738] In addition, we can mention C 20 To C 60 Microcrystalline wax, such as Microwax HW.

[0739] Mention may also be made of the MW 500 polyethylene wax sold under the reference Permalen 50-L polyethylene.

[0740] Mention may also be made of the addition of straight or branched C8 to C 32 Waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or vegetable oils with a fatty chain. Among these waxes, mention may be made in particular of isomerized jojoba oils, such as trans-isomerized partially hydrogenated jojoba oils, in particular those marketed by Desert Whale under the trade reference No. Jojoba oil, hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, hydrogenated lanolin oil and di(1,1,1-trimethylolpropane)tetrastearate manufactured or sold, in particular by Heterene under the name Hester The kind that sells.

[0741] It is also possible to use waxes obtained by hydrogenating castor oil esterified with cetyl alcohol, such as those sold under the name Phytowax Castor by the company Sophim. and The ones that are sold.

[0742] Wax that can also be used is C 20 To C 40 Alkyl (hydroxystearyloxy) stearates (the alkyl group contains 20 to 40 carbon atoms), alone or as a mixture. This wax is especially marketed by Koster Keunen under the name Kester Wax K 82 Hydroxypolyester K 82 and Kester Wax K 80 Sale.

[0743] It is also possible to use microwaxes in the compositions of the invention; mention may in particular be made of carnauba microcrystalline wax, such as that marketed by Micro Powders under the name MicroCare Products sold; synthetic wax microcrystalline wax, such as those sold by American Micronized Powder Company under the name MicroEase Products sold; microcrystalline wax consisting of a mixture of carnauba wax and polyethylene wax, such as that sold by the American Micronized Company under the name Micro Care and Those sold; microcrystalline waxes consisting of a mixture of carnauba wax and synthetic waxes, such as those sold by the American Micronized Company under the name Micro Care Products sold; Polyethylene microcrystalline wax, such as those sold by American Micronized Powder Company under the name Micropoly and and polytetrafluoroethylene microcrystalline waxes, such as those sold by the American Micronized Company under the name Microslip and The ones that are sold.

[0744] The waxes are preferably chosen from mineral waxes, such as paraffin, vaseline, lignite or ozokerite; vegetable waxes, such as cocoa butter, shea butter, cork fiber or sugar cane wax, olive wax, rice bran wax, hydrogenated jojoba wax, carnauba wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, phragmites wax or neat flower waxes, such as the blackcurrant flower essence wax sold by Bertin (France); waxes of animal origin, such as beeswax or modified beeswax (cera bellina), spermaceti, lanolin wax and lanolin derivatives; microcrystalline waxes; and mixtures thereof.

[0745] The ceramides or ceramide analogs such as glycoceramides that can be used in the composition according to the invention are known; mention may in particular be made of ceramides of classes I, II, III and V according to the Dawning classification.

[0746] The ceramide or its analogue that can be used preferably corresponds to the following formula:

[0747]

[0748] in:

[0749] -R1 indicates derived from C 14 -C 30 A saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon radical of a fatty acid, which may be substituted by a hydroxyl group in the α position or a hydroxyl group in the ω position, which is replaced by a saturated or unsaturated C 16 -C 30 Fatty acid esterification;

[0750] -R2 indicates hydrogen atom, (sugar group) n Group, (Galactosyl) m group or sulfogalactosyl, wherein n is an integer varying from 1 to 4 and m is an integer varying from 1 to 8;

[0751] -R3 indicates whether the α position is saturated or unsaturated C 15 -C 26 Hydrocarbon, this group may be one or more C1-C 14 Alkyl substitution;

[0752] It is understood that in the case of natural ceramides or glycosylceramides, R3 may also indicate an α-hydroxyalkyl (C 15 -C 26 ) alkyl, the hydroxyl group is optionally replaced by an α-hydroxyl C 16 -C 30 Acid esterification.

[0753] Preferably, ceramides are used, wherein R1 indicates a ceramide derived from C 14 -C 30 A saturated or unsaturated alkyl group of a fatty acid; R2 indicates a galactosyl group or a sulfogalactosyl group; and R3 indicates -CH=CH-(CH2) 12 -CH3 group.

[0754] More particularly preferred ceramides are compounds wherein R1 indicates a ceramide derived from C 16 -C 22 A saturated or unsaturated alkyl group of a fatty acid; R2 indicates a hydrogen atom and R3 indicates a saturated or unsaturated straight-chain C 15 Group.

[0755] The following compounds can also be used, wherein R1 indicates a compound derived from C 12 -C 22 a saturated or unsaturated alkyl group of a fatty acid; R2 indicates a galactosyl group or a sulfogalactosyl group, and R3 indicates a saturated or unsaturated C 12 -C 22 Hydrocarbyl and preferably -CH=CH-(CH2) 12 -CH3 group.

[0756] As particularly preferred compounds, mention may also be made of 2-N-linoleoylaminooctadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-oleoylaminooctadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-palmitoylaminooctadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-stearoylaminooctadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-behenoylaminooctadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-[2-hydroxypalmitoyl]aminooctadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-stearoylaminooctadecane-1,3,4-triol, and in particular N-stearoyl phytosphingosine, 2-N-palmitoylaminohexadecane-1,3-diol, N-linoleoyl dihydrosphingosine, N-oleoyl dihydrosphingosine, N-palmitoyl dihydrosphingosine, N-stearoyl dihydrosphingosine, and N-behenoyl dihydrosphingosine, N-docosanoyl-N-methyl-D-glucosamine, cetyl acid N-(2-hydroxyethyl)-N-(3-cetyloxy-2-hydroxypropyl)amide and bis(N-hydroxyethyl-N-cetyl)malonamide; and mixtures thereof. Preferably, N-oleoyl dihydrosphingosine will be used.

[0757] As liquid fatty substances that can be used, mention may be made of liquid hydrocarbons, liquid fatty alcohols, liquid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols other than triglycerides, oils of the triglyceride type of vegetable or synthetic origin, mineral oils and mixtures thereof.

[0758] Liquid fatty substances have a 5 Pa) of less than or equal to 25° C., preferably less than or equal to 20° C. Advantageously, the liquid fatty substance is not (poly)oxyalkylenated.

[0759] It should be remembered that fatty alcohols, fatty esters and fatty acids more particularly exhibit at least one saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon radical containing 6 to 40 and better still 8 to 30 carbon atoms, which hydrocarbon radical is optionally substituted in particular by one or more, in particular 1 to 4, hydroxyl groups. If they are unsaturated, these compounds may contain 1 to 3 conjugated or nonconjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.

[0760] Liquid hydrocarbons can be C6 to C 18Liquid hydrocarbons, and are linear, branched or optionally cyclic; they are preferably selected from C8-C 16 , especially C 10 -C 14 Alkanes. Mention may be made, by way of example, of hexane, cyclohexane, undecane, dodecane, isododecane, tridecane, isoparaffins such as isohexadecane or isodecane, and mixtures thereof.

[0761] The liquid hydrocarbons may also be chosen from those of mineral or synthetic origin containing more than 16 carbon atoms, which may be linear or branched; mention may be made of liquid paraffin or liquid vaseline, polydecene, hydrogenated polyisobutene (such as ), and mixtures thereof.

[0762] The triglyceride oils of vegetable or synthetic origin may be chosen from liquid triglycerides of fatty acids containing from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, such as triglycerides of heptanoic acid or caprylic acid, or also, for example, sunflower oil, corn oil, soybean oil, marrow oil, grapeseed oil, sesame seed oil, hazelnut oil, almond oil, macadamia oil, arara oil, castor oil, avocado oil, caprylic / capric triglycerides (such as those sold by Stéarinerie Dubois or by Dynamit Nobel under the name 810, 812 and 818), jojoba oil, shea butter and mixtures thereof.

[0763] The liquid fatty alcohol may be chosen from saturated or unsaturated and linear or branched alcohols, preferably unsaturated or branched alcohols, containing from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. For example, mention may be made of octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, ricinoleyl alcohol, undecenyl alcohol and linoleyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.

[0764] The liquid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols mentioned above, except triglycerides, may be selected from saturated or unsaturated linear C1 to C 26 or branched chain C3 to C 26 Aliphatic monobasic or polybasic acids and saturated or unsaturated straight chain C1 to C 26 or branched chain C3 to C 26 Esters of aliphatic monohydric or polyhydric alcohols, the total carbon number of these esters is greater than or equal to 6, more advantageously greater than or equal to 10.

[0765] Preferably, for esters of monohydric alcohols, at least one of the alcohol or the acid from which the esters of the invention are derived is branched.

[0766] Among the monoesters, mention may be made of dihydroabietic acid behenate; octyldodecyl behenate; isocetyl behenate; isostearyl lactate; lauryl lactate; linoleyl lactate; oleyl lactate; isostearyl octanoate; isocetyl octanoate; octyl octanoate; decyl oleate; isocetyl isostearate; isocetyl laurate; isocetyl stearate; isodecyl octanoate; isodecyl oleate; isononyl isononanoate; isostearyl palmitate Esters; methyl acetyl ricinoleate; octyl isononanoate; 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate; octyldodecyl erucate; oleyl erucate; alkyl palmitates, such as ethyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate or 2-octyldecyl palmitate; alkyl myristates, such as isopropyl myristate or 2-octyldodecyl myristate; isobutyl stearate; 2-hexyldecyl laurate, and mixtures thereof.

[0767] Preferably, among the monoesters of monoacids and monoalcohols, use will be made of ethyl or isopropyl palmitate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl or ethyl myristate, isocetyl stearate, 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate and mixtures thereof.

[0768] Still in the context of this alternative form, it is also possible to use C4 to C 22 Dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and C1 to C 22 Esters of alcohols and mono-, di- or tri-carboxylic acids and C2 to C 26 Esters of di-, tri-, tetra- or pentahydroxylated alcohols.

[0769] Mention may be made in particular of: diethyl sebacate; diisopropyl sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; di-n-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; diisostearyl adipate; dioctyl maleate; glyceryl undecylenate; octyldodecyl stearate; pentaerythritol monoricinoleate; pentaerythritol tetraisononanoate; pentaerythritol tetranonanoate; pentaerythritol tetraisostearate; pentaerythritol tetraoctanoate; propylene glycol dicaprylate; propylene glycol dicaprate; tridecyl erucate; triisopropyl citrate; triisostearyl citrate; glyceryl trilactate; glyceryl tricaprylate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate; propylene glycol dicaprylate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; diethylene glycol diisononanoate; polyethylene glycol distearate, and mixtures thereof.

[0770] The composition may also contain C6 to C 30 , preferably C 12 To C 22 Sugar esters and diesters of fatty acids are used as fatty esters. It should be remembered that "sugar" is understood to mean oxygen-containing hydrocarbon compounds having several alcohol functions, with or without aldehyde or ketone functions, and containing at least 4 carbon atoms. These sugars can be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides or polysaccharides.

[0771] As suitable sugars there may be mentioned, for example, sucrose, glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose, lactose, and their derivatives, in particular alkyl derivatives, such as methyl derivatives, for example methylglucose.

[0772] The sugar esters of fatty acids may be selected in particular from the group consisting of the sugars described above and saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C6 to C 30 , preferably C 12 To C 22 Esters or mixtures of esters of fatty acids. If they are unsaturated, these compounds may contain from 1 to 3 conjugated or nonconjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.

[0773] The esters according to this alternative may also be chosen from monoesters, diesters, triesters and tetraesters, polyesters and mixtures thereof.

[0774] These esters may, for example, be oleate, laurate, palmitate, myristate, behenate, cocoate, stearate, linoleate, linolenate, caprate, arachidonate or mixtures thereof, such as, in particular, oleate / palmitate, oleate / stearate and palmitate / stearate mixed esters.

[0775] More particularly, use is made of mono- and diesters, and in particular mono- or dioleates, -stearate, -behenate, -oleate / palmitate, -linoleate, -linolenate or -oleate / stearate of sucrose, glucose or methylglucose, and mixtures thereof.

[0776] For example, you can mention the company owned by AMGRO under the name A product sold by DO, which is methyl glucose dioleate.

[0777] Preferably, liquid esters of monobasic acids and monohydric alcohols will be used.

[0778] Preferably, the fatty substance is chosen from triglyceride oils of vegetable or synthetic origin, liquid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols other than triglycerides, liquid C6-C 18 Hydrocarbons, solid fatty alcohols, solid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof.

[0779] Preferably, the composition according to the invention may contain a total amount of fatty substances ranging from 0.1% to 20% by weight, better still from 1% to 18% by weight, preferably from 2% to 15% by weight and even better still from 5% to 12% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0780] Other compounds

[0781] The composition used according to the invention advantageously comprises water, in particular in a concentration preferably ranging from 50% to 95% by weight, for example from 55% to 90% by weight, in particular from 60% to 85% by weight and better still from 65% to 85% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0782] The pH of the composition may be between 2.5 and 8, preferably between 3 and 7, indeed even between 4 and 6.

[0783] The composition used according to the invention may optionally contain one or more preferably hydrophilic (water-soluble or water-miscible) organic solvents, which are liquid at 25° C. and 1 atm and may be selected from C1-C6 aliphatic or aromatic monoalcohols, C2-C8 polyols and C3-C7 polyol ethers. Advantageously, the organic solvent is selected from C2-C4 monoalcohols, diols or triols. It may advantageously be selected from ethanol, isopropanol, benzyl alcohol, glycerol, 1,2-propylene glycol (propylene glycol) and mixtures thereof.

[0784] The composition used according to the invention may additionally comprise at least one or more standard cosmetic ingredients, in particular chosen from thickeners, gelling agents (both of which are different from the above-mentioned polymers); screening agents; antidandruff agents; antioxidants; chelating agents; reducing agents; oxidation bases, coupling agents, oxidizing agents, direct dyes; hair straightening agents; pearlescent agents and opacifiers; mica, pearlescent agents, glitter; plasticizers or coalescents; pigments; fillers; perfumes; alkalizing agents or acidifying agents; silanes. A person skilled in the art will carefully choose the ingredients participating in the composition and also their amounts so that they do not impair the properties of the composition of the invention.

[0785] According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the hair composition used in the method according to the present invention (as a pre-shampoo) may comprise:

[0786] - one or more amino acid compounds corresponding to formula (I) as defined above, in which p=2 and R represents a hydrogen atom or a saturated, linear or branched (C1-C4) alkyl group, which is optionally interrupted by a -S- heteroatom and / or optionally substituted by one or two groups chosen from hydroxyl, amino or -NH-C(NH)-NH2; better still, R represents a hydrogen atom;

[0787] The amino acid type compound is present in a total content of at least 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, in particular from 0.5% to 10% by weight, in particular from 0.7% to 8% by weight, better still from 0.8% to 7% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition;

[0788] one or more hydroxylated (poly)carboxylic acids containing 4 to 6 carbon atoms, 1 to 3 OH groups and 2 or 3 COOH groups and / or salts thereof, preferably present in a total content of at least 0.5% by weight, better still from 0.5% to 10% by weight, in particular from 1% to 8% by weight, better still from 1.5% to 6% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition;

[0789] - optionally one or more associative polymers, which are preferably nonionic and better still chosen from polyether polyurethanes;

[0790] Preferably present in the composition in a total content ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% to 1.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition;

[0791] - optionally one or more silicones, preferably selected from aminated silicones, non-aminated silicones and mixtures thereof;

[0792] Preferably present in a total content ranging from 0.3% to 5% by weight, better still from 0.5% to 4% by weight, preferably from 0.6% to 3% by weight and more preferably from 0.7% to 2.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition;

[0793] - optionally one or more cationic surfactants, preferably chosen from those of formula (II), those of formula (V), those of formula (VI) and mixtures thereof, better still chosen from those of formula (II), those of formula (VI) and mixtures thereof;

[0794] Preferably present in a total amount ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.2% to 8% by weight, preferably from 0.3% to 7% by weight, even better still from 0.5% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition;

[0795] - optionally one or more cationic polysaccharides, in particular chosen from cellulose and / or cationic galactomannan gums; preferably present in a total amount ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.05% to 5% by weight, even better still from 0.1% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition;

[0796] - optionally one or more nonionic polysaccharides, in particular chosen (alone or as a mixture) from nonionic guar gums optionally modified with (poly)hydroxy(C1-C6)alkyl groups; preferably present in a total amount ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.05% to 5% by weight, even better still from 0.1% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition;

[0797] - optionally one or more nonionic surfactants; preferably present in a total content ranging from 0.05% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.2% to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition according to the invention.

[0798] B / Washing Composition

[0799] The hair treatment method according to the invention also comprises a "washing" phase (ii) which consists in applying to the hair a washing cosmetic composition comprising one or more anionic surfactants and / or one or more amphoteric surfactants, and also mixtures thereof.

[0800] In a known manner, the cleaning compositions or shampoos may also comprise one or more nonionic surfactants.

[0801] Anionic surfactants

[0802] The cleansing cosmetic composition may comprise one or more anionic surfactants.

[0803] "Anionic surfactants" are understood to mean surfactants which comprise only anionic groups as ionic or ionizable groups.

[0804] In this specification, under the conditions of use of the compositions of the invention (e.g., medium or pH) and not including a cationic charge, an entity is described as "anionic" when it has at least one permanent negative charge or when it can be ionized to give a negatively charged entity.

[0805] The anionic surfactant may be a sulfate, sulfonate and / or carboxylic acid (or carboxylate) surfactant. Quite obviously, mixtures of these surfactants may be used.

[0806] It should be understood in this specification that:

[0807] -Carboxylate anionic surfactants contain at least one carboxylic acid or carboxylate group (-COOH or -COO - ) functional groups and may optionally additionally comprise one or more sulfate and / or sulfonate functional groups;

[0808] -Sulfonate anionic surfactants contain at least one sulfonate group (-SO3H or -SO3 - ) functional groups and may optionally further comprise one or more sulfate functional groups, but no carboxylate functional groups; and

[0809] -Sulfate anionic surfactants contain at least one sulfate functional group, but no carboxylate or sulfonate functional groups.

[0810] Thus, the carboxylic acid anionic surfactants that can be used contain at least one carboxylic acid or carboxylate group (-COOH or -COO - ) functional group.

[0811] They can be selected from the following compounds: acyl glycinates, acyl lactylates, acyl sarcosinates, acyl glutamates; alkyl ether carboxylic acids, alkyl (C 6-30 and also the salts of these compounds; the alkyl and / or acyl radicals of these compounds contain 6 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular 12 to 28 carbon atoms, even better still 14 to 24 carbon atoms, indeed even 16 to 22 carbon atoms; aryl preferably denotes phenyl or benzyl; these compounds may be polyoxyalkylened, in particular polyoxyethylenened, and then preferably contain 1 to 50 ethyleneoxy units, better still 2 to 10 ethyleneoxy units.

[0812] Polyglycoside-polycarboxylic acid C6-C 24 Alkyl monoesters, such as C6-C 24 Alkyl polyglycoside-citrate, C6-C 24 Alkyl polyglycoside-tartrate and C6-C 24 Alkyl polyglycoside-sulfosuccinate and its salts.

[0813] Among the abovementioned carboxylic acid surfactants, mention may very particularly be made of the polyoxyalkylenated alkyl(amido)ether carboxylic acids and their salts, in particular those comprising 2 to 50 alkyleneoxy groups, in particular ethyleneoxy groups, such as the compounds supplied by Kao Corporation under the name Akypo.

[0814] The polyoxyalkylenated alkyl(amido)ether carboxylic acids which can be used are preferably selected from those of the formula (1):

[0815] R 1’ -(OC2H4) n’ -OCH2COOA (1)

[0816] in:

[0817] -R 1' Indicates a straight or branched C6-C 24 Alkyl or alkenyl, (C8-C9) alkylphenyl, R 2’ CONH-CH2-CH2- group, where R 2’ C9-C indicates straight or branched chain 21 alkyl or alkenyl; preferably, R 1’ It is C8-C 20 , preferably C8-C 18alkyl;

[0818] - n' is an integer or a decimal (average value) ranging from 2 to 24, preferably from 2 to 10,

[0819] -A indicates H, ammonium, Na, K, Li, Mg, or a monoethanolamine or triethanolamine residue.

[0820] It is also possible to use mixtures of compounds of the formula (1), in particular with different R 1’ A mixture of compounds of the group.

[0821] Particularly preferred polyoxyalkylenated alkyl(amido)ether carboxylic acids are those of formula (1) in which:

[0822] -R 1' Indicates straight or branched chain C8-C 22 , especially C 10 -C 16 In fact, even C 12 -C 14 Alkyl, or (C8-C9)alkylphenyl;

[0823] -A indicates a hydrogen or sodium atom, and

[0824] -n' varies from 2 to 20, preferably from 2 to 10.

[0825] Still more preferably, a compound of formula (1) is used, wherein R 1' Indication C 12 -C 14 alkyl, cocoyl, oleyl, nonylphenyl or octylphenyl, A indicates a hydrogen or sodium atom and n' varies from 2 to 10.

[0826] Among the commercial products, the products sold by Kao Corporation under the following names can be preferably used:

[0827] NP 70 (R1 = nonylphenyl, n = 7, A = H)

[0828] NP 40 (R1 = nonylphenyl, n = 4, A = H)

[0829] OP 40 (R1 = octylphenyl, n = 4, A = H)

[0830] OP 80 (R1 = octylphenyl, n = 8, A = H)

[0831] OP 190 (R1 = octylphenyl, n = 19, A = H)

[0832] RLM 38(R1=(C 12 -C 14 )alkyl, n=4, A=H)

[0833] RLM38NV(R1=(C 12 -C 14 )alkyl, n=4, A=Na)

[0834] RLM 45CA(R1=(C 12 -C 14 )alkyl, n=4.5, A=H)

[0835] RLM45NV(R1=(C 12 -C 14 )alkyl, n=4.5, A=Na)

[0836] RLM 100(R1=(C 12 -C 14 )alkyl, n=10, A=H)

[0837] RLM 100NV(R1=(C 12 -C 14 )alkyl, n=10, A=Na)

[0838] RLM 130(R1=(C 12 -C 14 )alkyl, n=13, A=H)

[0839] RLM 160NV(R1=(C 12 -C 14 )alkyl, n=16, A=Na),

[0840] Or products marketed by Sandoz under the following names:

[0841] Sandopan DTC-Acid (R1=(C 13 )alkyl, n=6, A=H)

[0842] Sandopan DTC(R1=(C 13 )alkyl, n=6, A=Na)

[0843] Sandopan LS24(R1=(C 12 -C 14)alkyl, n=12, A=Na)

[0844] Sandopan JA 36(R1=(C 13 )alkyl, n=18, A=H),

[0845] and more particularly the products marketed under the following names:

[0846] RLM 45 (INCI: Laureth-5 Carboxylic Acid)

[0847] RLM 100

[0848] RLM-38.

[0849] Preferably, the carboxylic acid anionic surfactants are selected, alone or as a mixture:

[0850] -Acylglutamates, especially C6-C 24 Acylglutamate, in fact even C 12 -C 20 Acylglutamates, such as stearoyl glutamate and in particular disodium stearoyl glutamate;

[0851] -Acylsarcosinates, especially C6-C 24 Acyl sarcosinate, in fact even C 12 -C 20 Acyl sarcosinates, such as palmitoyl sarcosinate and in particular sodium palmitoyl sarcosinate;

[0852] -Acyl lactylates, especially C 12 -C 28 Acyl lactylates, in fact even C 14 -C 24 Acyl lactylates, such as behenyl lactylate and in particular sodium behenyl lactylate;

[0853] -C6-C 24 Acyl glycinates, especially C 12 -C 20 Acyl glycinates;

[0854] -(C6-C 24 ) alkyl ether carboxylates and in particular (C 12 -C 20 ) alkyl ether carboxylates, especially those containing 2 to 50 ethyleneoxy groups;

[0855] -Polyoxyalkylene (C6-C 24) alkylamidoether carboxylic acids, especially those containing 2 to 50 ethyleneoxy groups;

[0856] It is in particular in the form of an acid or in the form of an alkali metal salt or alkaline earth metal salt, an ammonium salt or an aminoalcohol salt.

[0857] Preferably, polyoxyalkylene (C6-C 24 )Alkyl ether carboxylic acids and their salts.

[0858] The sulfonate anionic surfactants that can be used contain at least one sulfonate group (-SO3H or -SO3 - ) functional groups. They can be chosen from the following compounds: alkyl sulfonates, (alkyl ether) sulfonates, alkylamide sulfonates, alkylaryl sulfonates, α-olefin sulfonates, paraffin sulfonates, alkyl sulfosuccinates, alkyl ether sulfosuccinates, alkylamide sulfosuccinates, alkyl sulfoacetates, N-acyl taurates, acyl isethionates, alkyl sulfolaurates; and also salts of these compounds;

[0859] The alkyl radical of these compounds contains 6 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular 12 to 28 carbon atoms, even better still 14 to 24 carbon atoms, indeed even 16 to 22 carbon atoms; aryl preferably denotes phenyl or benzyl;

[0860] These compounds may be polyoxyalkylened, in particular polyoxyethylenened, and then preferably comprise from 1 to 50 ethyleneoxy units, better still from 2 to 10 ethyleneoxy units.

[0861] Preferably, the sulfonate anionic surfactants are selected, alone or as a mixture:

[0862] -C6-C 24 , especially C 12 -C 20 Olefin sulfonates;

[0863] -C6-C 24 , especially C 12 -C 20 Alkyl sulfosuccinates, in particular lauryl sulfosuccinate;

[0864] -C6-C 24 , especially C 12 -C 20 Alkyl ether sulfosuccinates;

[0865] -(C6-C 24 ) acyl isethionate, preferably (C 12 -C 18 ) acyl isethionates;

[0866] It is in particular in the form of an alkali metal salt, alkaline earth metal salt, ammonium salt or amino alcohol salt.

[0867] The sulfate anionic surfactants that can be used contain at least one sulfate group (-OSO3H or -OSO3 - ) functional group.

[0868] They may be chosen from the following compounds: alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkyl amido ether sulfates, alkyl aryl polyether sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates; and also the salts of these compounds;

[0869] The alkyl radical of these compounds contains 6 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular 12 to 28 carbon atoms, even better still 14 to 24 carbon atoms, indeed even 16 to 22 carbon atoms; aryl preferably denotes phenyl or benzyl;

[0870] These compounds may be polyoxyalkylened, in particular polyoxyethylenened, and then preferably comprise from 1 to 50 ethyleneoxy units, better still from 2 to 10 ethyleneoxy units.

[0871] Preferably, the sulfate anionic surfactant is selected, alone or as a mixture:

[0872] -Alkyl sulfates, especially C6-C 24 In fact, even C 12 -C 20 Alkyl sulfates, and

[0873] -Alkyl ether sulfates, especially C6-C 24 In fact, even C 12 -C 20 Alkyl ether sulfates, which preferably contain 2 to 20 ethyleneoxy units;

[0874] It is in particular in the form of an alkali metal salt, alkaline earth metal salt, ammonium salt or amino alcohol salt.

[0875] When the anionic surfactant is in salt form, the salt may be selected from alkali metal salts (such as sodium or potassium salts), ammonium salts, amine salts and in particular amino alcohol salts and alkaline earth metal salts (such as magnesium salts).

[0876] As examples of aminoalcohol salts, mention may be made of mono-, di- and triethanolamine salts, mono-, di- or triisopropanolamine salts or 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol salts, 2-amino-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol salts and tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane salts.

[0877] Preference is given to using alkali metal salts or alkaline earth metal salts and in particular sodium salts or magnesium salts.

[0878] Preferably, the anionic surfactants are selected, alone or as a mixture:

[0879] -C6-C 24 , especially C 12 -C 20 Alkyl sulfates;

[0880] -C6-C 24 , especially C 12 -C 20 Alkyl ether sulfates, which preferably contain 2 to 20 ethyleneoxy units;

[0881] -C6-C 24 , especially C 12 -C 20 Alkyl sulfosuccinates, in particular lauryl sulfosuccinate;

[0882] -C6-C 24 , especially C 12 -C 20 Olefin sulfonates;

[0883] -C6-C 24 , especially C 12 -C 20 Alkyl ether sulfosuccinates;

[0884] -(C6-C 24 ) acyl isethionate, preferably (C 12 -C 18 ) acyl isethionates;

[0885] -C6-C 24 , especially C 12 -C 20 Acyl sarcosinates, especially palmitoyl sarcosinate;

[0886] -(C6-C 24 ) alkyl ether carboxylates, preferably (C 12 -C 20 ) alkyl ether carboxylates, especially those containing 2 to 50 ethyleneoxy groups;

[0887] -Polyoxyalkylene (C6-C 24 ) alkylamidoether carboxylic acids and their salts, especially those containing 2 to 50 alkyleneoxy groups, especially ethyleneoxy groups;

[0888] -C6-C 24 , especially C 12 -C 20 Acylglutamate;

[0889] -C6-C24 , especially C 12 -C 20 Acyl glycinates;

[0890] It is in particular in the form of an acid or in the form of an alkali metal salt or alkaline earth metal salt, an ammonium salt or an aminoalcohol salt.

[0891] Preferably, the composition comprises one or more sulfate anionic surfactants, preferably one or more C6-C 24 , especially C 12 -C 20 Alkyl sulfate and / or one or more C6-C 24 , especially C 12 -C 20 Alkyl ether sulfates, which preferably contain 2 to 20 ethyleneoxy units, are especially in the form of alkali metal or alkaline earth metal salts, ammonium salts or amino alcohol salts.

[0892] The anionic surfactant is preferably present in the washing composition according to the invention in a total amount ranging from 2% to 30% by weight, in particular from 4% to 25% by weight, better still from 5% to 20% by weight, even better still from 6% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0893] Amphoteric surfactant

[0894] The cleaning compositions according to the present invention may comprise one or more amphoteric surfactants.

[0895] In particular, amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants are non-silicone surfactants. They may in particular be optionally quaternized secondary or tertiary aliphatic amine derivatives, wherein the aliphatic group is a straight or branched chain containing 8 to 22 carbon atoms, the amine derivative containing at least one anionic group such as, for example, a carboxylate, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate or phosphonate group.

[0896] Particularly mention can be made of (C8-C 20 ) alkyl betaine, (C8-C 20 ) alkyl sulfobetaine, (C8-C 20 ) alkylamido (C3-C8) alkyl betaine and (C8-C 20 )alkylamido(C6-C8)alkylsulfonobetaine.

[0897] Among the optionally quaternized secondary or tertiary aliphatic amine derivatives that can be used as defined above, mention may also be made of the compounds having the corresponding structures (II) and (III) below:

[0898] R a -CONHCH2CH2-N+ (R b )(R c )-CH2COO - M + X - (II)

[0899] in:

[0900] -R a denotes an acid R derived from preferably present in hydrolyzed coconut oil a C of COOH 10 To C 30 alkyl or alkenyl, or heptyl, nonyl or undecyl;

[0901] -R b represents β-hydroxyethyl; and

[0902] -R c represents carboxymethyl;

[0903] -M + represents a cationic counter ion generated from an alkali metal or an alkaline earth metal such as sodium, an ammonium ion, or an ion generated from an organic amine, and

[0904] -X - M represents an organic or inorganic anionic counterion, such as an anionic counterion selected from halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, (C1-C4)alkylsulfates, (C1-C4)alkylsulfonates or (C1-C4)alkylarylsulfonates, in particular methylsulfate and ethylsulfate; or in addition M + and X - does not exist;

[0905] R a’ -CONHCH2CH2-N(B)(B')(III)

[0906] in:

[0907] -B represents a -CH2CH2OX' group;

[0908] -B' represents -(CH2) z Y' group, wherein z = 1 or 2;

[0909] -X' represents a -CH2COOH, -CH2-COOZ', -CH2CH2COOH or -CH2CH2-COOZ' group, or a hydrogen atom;

[0910] -Y' represents a -COOH, -COOZ' or a -CH2CH(OH)SO3H group or a -CH2CH(OH)SO3-Z' group;

[0911] -Z' represents a cationic counter ion generated from an alkali metal or alkaline earth metal such as sodium, an ammonium ion, or an ion generated from an organic amine;

[0912] -R a’ represents the acid R preferably present in hydrolyzed linseed oil or coconut oil a’ -COOH C 10 To C 30 Alkyl or alkenyl, alkyl, especially C 17 Alkyl and its isomeric forms, or unsaturated C 17 Group.

[0913] These compounds are classified in the CTFA Dictionary, 5th edition, 1993, under the names disodium cocoamphodiacetate, disodium lauroamphodiacetate, disodium caproamphodiacetate, disodium capryloamphodiacetate, disodium cocoamphodipropionate, disodium lauroamphodipropionate, disodium caproamphodipropionate, disodium capryloamphodipropionate, lauroamphodipropionic acid and cocoamphodipropionic acid.

[0914] By way of example, mention may be made of the product sold by Rhodia under the trade name Cocoamphodiacetate sold by C2M Concentrate.

[0915] Compounds of formula (IV) may also be used:

[0916] R a” -NHCH(Y')-(CH2) n CONH(CH2) n’ -N(R d )(R e ) (IV)

[0917] in:

[0918] -Y" represents a group -COOH, -COOZ" or a -CH2CH(OH)SO3H group or a -CH2CH(OH)SO3-Z" group;

[0919] -R d and R e independently of one another represent a C1 to C4 alkyl group or a hydroxyalkyl group;

[0920] -Z" represents a cationic counter ion generated from an alkali metal or alkaline earth metal such as sodium, an ammonium ion, or an ion generated from an organic amine;

[0921] -R a” represents the acid R preferably present in hydrolyzed linseed oil or coconut oil a” -COOH C 10 To C 30Alkyl or alkenyl;

[0922] -n and n' indicate an integer ranging from 1 to 3 independently of each other.

[0923] Among the compounds of formula (II), mention may be made of the compound classified in the CTFA dictionary under the name sodium diethylaminopropyl cocoyl aspartamide and sold under the name Chimexane HB by the company Chimex.

[0924] These compounds may be used alone or as a mixture.

[0925] Among the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants, (C8-C 20 ) alkyl betaine such as cocoyl betaine, (C8-C 20 ) alkylamido (C3-C8) alkyl betaines such as cocoamidopropyl betaine, and mixtures thereof, and compounds of formula (IV) such as the sodium salt of diethylaminopropyl laurylaminosuccinamic acid (INCI name: sodium diethylaminopropyl cocoaspartamide).

[0926] Preferably, these amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants are selected from (C8-C 20 )Alkylamido (C3-C8) alkyl betaine, such as cocamidopropyl betaine.

[0927] Preferably, the amphoteric surfactants are present in the composition according to the invention in a total content ranging from 3% to 20% by weight, preferably ranging from 3.5% to 15% by weight and better still ranging from 4% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0928] Nonionic surfactants

[0929] The cosmetic compositions according to the invention may optionally comprise one or more nonionic surfactants, in particular those described in MR Porter's Handbook of Surfactants, 1991, Blackie & Son Publishers (Glasgow and London), pp. 116-178.

[0930] As examples of nonionic surfactants, mention may be made of the following compounds, alone or as a mixture:

[0931] -oxyalkylene (C8-C 24 ) alkylphenol;

[0932] - saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyalkylenated or glycerolated C8-C 40Alcohols; preferably, they contain one or two fatty chains;

[0933] - saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyalkylened C8 to C 30 Fatty acid amides;

[0934] - saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, C8 to C 30 Esters of acids and polyethylene glycols;

[0935] - saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, C8 to C 30 Esters of an acid and sorbitol, which are preferably oxyethylidened;

[0936] - Esters of fatty acids and sucrose;

[0937] -(C8-C 30 ) alkyl (poly) glucoside, (C8-C 30 )alkenyl (poly)glucoside (which is optionally oxyalkylened and contains 1 to 15 glucose units), (C8-C 30 ) esters of alkyl (poly)glucosides;

[0938] -Oxyethylenated saturated or unsaturated vegetable oils;

[0939] - condensation products of ethyleneoxy and / or propyleneoxy;

[0940] -N-(C8-C 30 ) alkyl glucosamine and N-(C8-C 30 ) acylmethylglucosamine derivatives;

[0941] -Amine oxides.

[0942] These oxyalkylene units are more particularly oxyethylene units or oxypropylene units, or a combination thereof, preferably oxyethylene units.

[0943] The number of moles of ethyleneoxy and / or propyleneoxy preferably ranges from 1 to 250, more particularly from 2 to 100 and better still from 2 to 50; the number of moles of glycerol ranges particularly from 1 to 50 and better still from 1 to 10.

[0944] Advantageously, the nonionic surfactants according to the invention do not comprise oxypropylene units.

[0945] Preferably, they contain a number of mol ranging from 1 to 250, in particular from 2 to 100 and better still from 2 to 50, of ethyleneoxy groups.

[0946] Taking glycerolated nonionic surfactant as an example, it is preferred to use monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated C8 to C60 containing 1 to 50 mol of glycerol, preferably 1 to 10 mol of glycerol. 40 alcohol.

[0947] As examples of compounds of this type, mention may be made of lauryl alcohol with 4 mol of glycerol (INCI name: POLYGLYCERYL-4 LAURYL ETHER), lauryl alcohol with 1.5 mol of glycerol, oleyl alcohol with 4 mol of glycerol (INCI name: POLYGLYCERYL-4 OLYL ETHER), oleyl alcohol with 2 mol of glycerol (INCI name: POLYGLYCERYL-2 OLYL ETHER), cetearyl alcohol with 2 mol of glycerol, cetearyl alcohol with 6 mol of glycerol, oleyl / cetyl alcohol with 6 mol of glycerol and stearyl alcohol with 6 mol of glycerol.

[0948] Among the glycerolated alcohols, it is more preferred to use C8 to C 10 Alcohol, C with 1 mol of glycerol 10 To C 12 alcohol and C with 1.5 mol glycerol 12 alcohol.

[0949] The nonionic surfactants which can be used in the cleaning compositions according to the invention are preferably selected, alone or as a mixture:

[0950] - saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyethylidene C8 to C 40 alcohols which contain 1 to 100 mol of ethyleneoxy groups, preferably 2 to 50 mol of ethyleneoxy groups and more particularly 2 to 40 mol of ethyleneoxy groups; they preferably contain one or two fatty chains;

[0951] - saturated or unsaturated oxyethylenated vegetable oils containing 1 to 100 and preferably 2 to 50 mol of ethyleneoxy groups;

[0952] -(C8-C 30 ) alkyl (poly) glucosides, which are optionally oxyalkylened, preferably have 0 to 10 mol of ethyleneoxy groups and contain 1 to 15 glucose units;

[0953] - Mono- or poly-glycerolated C8 to C 40 Alcohol containing 1 to 50 mol of glycerol, preferably 1 to 10 mol of glycerol;

[0954] - saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyalkylened C8 to C 30 Fatty acid amides;

[0955] - saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, C8 to C30 Esters of acids and polyethylene glycols;

[0956] - saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, C8 to C 30 Esters of an acid and sorbitol, which are preferably oxyethylidened;

[0957] More preferably, the nonionic surfactant is selected, alone or as a mixture:

[0958] - saturated or unsaturated, straight chain or branched, oxydeoxylated C8 to C 40 Alcohols containing 1 to 100 mol of ethyleneoxy groups, preferably 2 to 50 mol of ethyleneoxy groups and more particularly 2 to 40 mol of ethyleneoxy groups and containing one or two fatty chains, particularly at least one C8-C 20 , especially C 10 -C 18 Alkyl chain;

[0959] - saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, C8 to C 30 Esters of an acid and sorbitol, which are preferably oxyethylidened; and

[0960] -(C8-C 30 )alkyl (poly) glucoside, which is optionally oxyalkylened, preferably contains 1 to 10 mol of ethyleneoxy groups and contains 1 to 15 glucose units.

[0961] In particular, the cleaning compositions may comprise one or more nonionic surfactants of the alkyl (poly)glycoside type of the following general formula:

[0962] R1O-(R2O) t -(G) v

[0963] in:

[0964] - R1 represents a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl group containing 6 to 24 carbon atoms, in particular 8 to 18 carbon atoms, or an alkylphenyl group whose linear or branched alkyl group contains 6 to 24 carbon atoms, in particular 8 to 18 carbon atoms; preferably a saturated or unsaturated linear or branched hydrocarbon group containing 8 to 18 carbon atoms;

[0965] - R2 represents an alkylene group containing 2 to 4 carbon atoms,

[0966] -G represents a sugar unit containing 5 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably glucose, fructose or galactose, better still glucose;

[0967] -t indicates a value ranging from 0 to 10, preferably from 0 to 4, better still from 0 to 3, even better still 0;

[0968] -v denotes a value ranging from 1 to 15, preferably from 1 to 4, the average degree of polymerization (v) being more particularly between 1 and 2.

[0969] The glycosidic bonds between sugar units are usually of the 1-6 or 1-4 type, preferably of the 1-4 type.

[0970] Preferably, the alkyl (poly)glycoside surfactant is an alkyl (poly)glucoside surfactant.

[0971] Preferably, the cleaning compositions according to the invention comprise a total content of nonionic surfactants (when they are present) ranging from 0.05 to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.2 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the cleaning composition.

[0972] Other Ingredients

[0973] The composition according to the invention may comprise water or a mixture of water with one or more cosmetically acceptable solvents selected from: C1-C4 alcohols such as ethanol, isopropanol, tert-butanol or n-butanol; polyols such as glycerol, propylene glycol and polyethylene glycol; and mixtures thereof.

[0974] Preferably, the washing compositions according to the invention exhibit a total water content of between 20 and 95% by weight, preferably between 30 and 90% by weight, preferably between 40 and 85% by weight and better still between 50 and 80% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0975] The pH of the washing compositions according to the invention generally varies from 3 to 9, preferably from 3 to 7, preferably from 3.5 to 6 and better still from 4 to 5.5.

[0976] The washing cosmetic composition according to the invention may additionally comprise at least one standard cosmetic ingredient, which is chosen in particular from polymeric or non-polymeric conditioning agents; mention may be made in particular of cationic polymers, amphoteric polymers, silicones, organomodified silicones such as aminated silicones; vegetable oils, mineral oils, animal oils or synthetic oils; liquid fatty alcohols; liquid fatty esters; solid fatty substances and in particular waxes, solid fatty esters, solid alcohols; ceramides; screening agents; moisturizers; antidandruff agents; antioxidants; pearlescent agents and sunscreens; plasticizers or coalescing agents; preservatives; chelating agents (EDTA and its salts); colorants. Of course, the composition may comprise several of the cosmetic ingredients appearing in the above list. A person skilled in the art will carefully choose the ingredients involved in the composition and also their amounts in such a way that the advantageous properties of the composition according to the invention are not or substantially not adversely affected by the envisaged additions.

[0977] The method according to the invention is particularly suitable for hair treatment, in particular washing and / or conditioning, of sensitized, weakened and / or damaged hair, or hair loaded with metal ions, in particular copper and / or calcium.

[0978] In particular, the method can be used to strengthen hair, in particular sensitized, weakened and / or damaged hair, and / or to limit the loss of shine, in particular sensitized, weakened and / or damaged hair.

[0979] The following examples serve to illustrate the invention but are not intended to be limiting.

[0980] In the following examples, unless otherwise indicated, all amounts are given as percentage by weight of active material relative to the total weight of the composition (g % AM).

[0981] Example 1

[0982] The following compositions according to the invention were prepared from the ingredients shown in the following table (g % AM):

[0983] [Table 1]

[0984]

[0985]

[0986] Composition A is provided in the form of a cream and can be advantageously used as a pre-shampoo in rinse mode before shampoo. This composition can be used to detangle the hair, providing care and strength (slightly less smoothness, body and volume than conventional care treatments). The composition also exhibits strengthening properties.

[0987] Composition B is provided in the form of a cream and can be used advantageously in rinse mode before shampooing. This composition can be used to detangle the hair, providing conditioning and strength (slightly less smoothness, body and volume than conventional conditioning treatments). The composition also exhibits strengthening properties.

Claims

1. A method for cosmetically treating hair, the method comprising: (i) a stage (i) of applying a cosmetic composition to the hair, the cosmetic composition comprising: - at least 0.5% by weight of one or more amino acid type compounds relative to the total weight of the composition, and - one or more hydroxylated (poly)carboxylic acids containing 2 to 8 carbon atoms, and / or their salts; in particular hydroxylated (poly)carboxylic acids containing 4 to 6 carbon atoms, 1 to 3 OH groups and 2 to 3 COOH groups and / or their salts, in particular alkali metal salts, alkaline earth metal salts or zinc salts; followed by (ii) a stage (ii) of washing the hair, said stage comprising the application of a washing cosmetic composition comprising one or more anionic and / or amphoteric surfactants, said stage (ii) of washing the hair taking place at most 60 minutes after said stage (i).

2. The method according to the preceding claim, wherein: The amino acid compound is selected from compounds corresponding to formula (I) and / or salts thereof, in particular alkali metal salts, alkaline earth metal salts or zinc salts: Where p is an integer equal to 1 or 2, it should be understood that: - when p=1, R and the nitrogen atom form a saturated heterocyclic ring containing 5 to 8 ring members, preferably 5 ring members, which ring may be substituted by one or more groups selected from hydroxyl or (C1-C4) alkyl; - When p=2, R represents a hydrogen atom or a saturated, straight chain or branched (C1-C 12 )alkyl, preferably (C1-C4)alkyl, which is optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups selected from -S-, -NH- or -C(NH)- and / or optionally substituted by one or more groups selected from hydroxyl (-OH), amino (-NH2), -SH, -COOH, -CONH2 or -NH-C(NH)-NH2; Preferably, wherein p=2 and R represents a hydrogen atom or a saturated, linear or branched (C1-C4) alkyl group, which is optionally interrupted by a -S- heteroatom and / or optionally substituted by one or two groups selected from hydroxyl, amino or -NH-C(NH)-NH2; even better, p=2 and R represents a hydrogen atom; Even better, the amino acid compound is selected from glycine, proline, methionine, serine, arginine, lysine, salts thereof, in particular alkali metal salts, alkaline earth metal salts or zinc salts, and mixtures thereof; preferably selected from glycine, salts thereof, in particular alkali metal salts, alkaline earth metal salts or zinc salts, and mixtures thereof.

3. A method according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein: The total content of the amino acid type compound ranges from 0.5 to 10% by weight, particularly from 0.7 to 8% by weight, and better still from 0.8 to 7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

4. The method according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein: The composition comprises one or more hydroxylated (poly)carboxylic acids chosen from lactic acid, glycolic acid, tartaric acid or citric acid and their salts, in particular alkali metal salts or alkaline earth metal salts; very particularly citric acid and / or tartaric acid and also their salts, in particular alkali metal salts or alkaline earth metal salts, such as sodium citrate and / or sodium tartrate; even better still citric acid or its salts, in particular alkali metal salts or alkaline earth metal salts, such as sodium citrate.

5. The method according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein: The total content of hydroxylated (poly)carboxylic acids containing a total of 2 to 8 carbon atoms and / or their salts is at least 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; the total content ranges better still from 0.5% to 10% by weight, in particular from 1% to 8% by weight, and better still from 1.5% to 6% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

6. The method according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein: The composition applied in stage (i) comprises one or more associative polymers, preferably nonionic, preferably chosen from polyether polyurethanes; in particular the total content of associative polymers ranges from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% to 1.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

7. The method according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein: The composition applied in stage (i) comprises one or more silicones, preferably chosen from aminated silicones; in particular the total content of silicones ranges from 0.3% to 5% by weight, better still from 0.5% to 4% by weight, preferably from 0.6% to 3% by weight and more preferably from 0.7% to 2.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

8. The method according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein: The composition applied in stage (i) comprises one or more cationic surfactants, in particular in a total amount ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.2% to 8% by weight, preferably from 0.3% to 7% by weight, even better still from 0.5% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

9. The method according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein: The composition applied in phase (i) comprises one or more cationic polymers, preferably chosen from cationic polysaccharides, in particular cationic cellulose, cationic galactomannan gum, in particular cationic guar gum; and also mixtures thereof; in particular the total content of cationic polymers ranges from 0.01% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.05% to 5% by weight, even better still from 0.1% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

10. The method according to any of the preceding claims, wherein: The composition applied in stage (i) comprises one or more nonionic polysaccharides, in particular chosen - alone or as a mixture - from cellulose, galactomannans and nonionic derivatives thereof, in particular from their ethers; better still chosen - alone or as a mixture - from nonionic guar gum optionally modified with (poly)hydroxy(C1-C6)alkyl, in particular hydroxypropyl, and / or substituted or unsubstituted cellulose, and cellulose ethers such as (C1-C4)alkylcellulose and (poly)hydroxy(C1-C4)alkylcellulose; preferably chosen - alone or as a mixture - from nonionic guar gum optionally modified with (poly)hydroxy(C1-C6)alkyl, in particular hydroxypropyl; preferably the total amount of nonionic polysaccharides ranges from 0.01% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.05% to 5% by weight, even better still from 0.1% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

11. The method according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein: The composition applied in stage (i) comprises one or more nonionic surfactants, in particular in a total content ranging from 0.05% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.2% to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition according to the invention.

12. The method according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein: The composition applied in stage (i) comprises one or more non-silicone fatty substances, preferably chosen from triglyceride oils of vegetable or synthetic origin, liquid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols other than triglycerides, liquid C6-C 18 Hydrocarbons, solid fatty alcohols, solid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof; in particular the total amount of said non-silicone fatty substances ranges from 0.1% to 20% by weight, better still from 1% to 18% by weight, preferably from 2% to 15% by weight, better still from 5% to 12% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

13. The method according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein: The composition applied in stage (i) comprises water, in particular in a concentration preferably ranging from 50% to 95% by weight, for example from 55% to 90% by weight, in particular from 60% to 85% by weight, better still from 65% to 85% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

14. The method according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein: The cleaning composition applied in stage (ii) comprises: - a total amount of said anionic surfactants ranging from 2% to 30% by weight, in particular from 4% to 25% by weight, better still from 5% to 20% by weight, even better still from 6% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; and / or - a total content ranging from 3% to 20% by weight, preferably ranging from 3.5% to 15% by weight, better still ranging from 4% to 10% by weight, of the amphoteric surfactant relative to the total weight of the composition.

15. The method according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein: Phase (i) is followed by a rinse phase and then phase (ii).

16. The method according to claim 1 for hair treatment, in particular washing and / or conditioning, of sensitized, weakened and / or damaged hair or hair loaded with metal ions, in particular copper and / or calcium; in particular for strengthening, in particular sensitized, weakened and / or damaged hair and / or for limiting the loss of shine of, in particular sensitized, weakened and / or damaged hair.

17. Use of a cosmetic composition as a pre-shampoo, the cosmetic composition comprising: at least 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of one or more amino acid-type compounds, preferably amino acid-type compounds corresponding to formula (I) and / or salts thereof, in particular alkali metal salts, alkaline earth metal salts or zinc salts: Where p is an integer equal to 1 or 2, it should be understood that: - when p=1, R and the nitrogen atom form a saturated heterocyclic ring containing 5 to 8 ring members, preferably 5 ring members, which ring may be substituted by one or more groups selected from hydroxyl or (C1-C4) alkyl; - When p=2, R represents a hydrogen atom or a saturated, straight chain or branched (C1-C 12 )alkyl, preferably (C1-C4)alkyl, which is optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups selected from -S-, -NH- or -C(NH)- and / or optionally substituted by one or more groups selected from hydroxyl (-OH), amino (-NH2), -SH, -COOH, -CONH2 or -NH-C(NH)-NH2; Preferably, wherein p=2 and R represents a hydrogen atom or a saturated, linear or branched (C1-C4) alkyl group, which is optionally interrupted by a -S- heteroatom and / or optionally substituted by one or two groups selected from hydroxyl, amino or -NH-C(NH)-NH2; even better, p=2 and R represents a hydrogen atom; Even better, the amino acid compound is selected from glycine, proline, methionine, serine, arginine, lysine, salts thereof, in particular alkali metal salts, alkaline earth metal salts or zinc salts, and mixtures thereof; preferably selected from glycine, salts thereof, in particular alkali metal salts, alkaline earth metal salts or zinc salts, and mixtures thereof; and one or more hydroxylated (poly)carboxylic acids containing 2 to 8 carbon atoms, in particular 4 to 6 carbon atoms, 1 to 3 OH groups and 2 to 3 COOH groups and / or salts thereof, in particular alkali metal salts, alkaline earth metal salts or zinc salts.

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