Soft texture cosmetic composition comprising ceramide
By combining neurotide with polyglycerin soft tenderizers and glycolin glycolin, and adding cuckoool corkyate when necessary, it solves the problem of difficulty in cosmetics in cosmetics. Long -term stability and soft texture satisfy consumers' preference for light and refreshing.
Patent Information
- Application Number
- CN202480002964.1
- Authority / Receiving Office
- CN · China
- Patent Type
- Applications(China)
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Priority Date
- 2023-04-24
- Filing Date
- 2024-04-24
- Publication Date
- 2025-01-24
AI Technical Summary
Ceramides are difficult to form and stabilize in cosmetics, and are prone to gelation due to recrystallization. The existing preparation methods have caused the product to be heavy and stiff, which cannot meet consumers' preference for lightness and refreshing.
Ceramides are included with polyglyceryl-based softeners and glyceryl stearate and, where necessary, myristyl myristate to prevent gelling and precipitation of ceramides, ensuring long-term stability and soft texture of the product .
The long -term stability and soft texture of neuromamide is realized, the gel and precipitation are avoided, and the consumer needs the emotional quality of light and refreshing.
Smart Images

Figure CN119365181A_ABST
Abstract
Description
Technical Field
[0001] The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising ceramide, glyceryl stearate and a polyglyceryl softener and having excellent dosage form stability. Background Art
[0002] Ceramide is a component of the stratum corneum of the skin and is important for maintaining skin moisture, so it has been widely used in cosmetics since the past. Despite these advantages, ceramide is difficult to dissolve in both the aqueous phase and the oil phase due to its poor solubility, so it is difficult to formulate into a dosage form. Even if a dosage form is achieved, gelation will occur over time due to high recrystallization, making it difficult to use in large quantities in products. In order to solve these problems and include ceramide in cosmetics in large quantities, attempts have been made to formulate ceramide in large quantities with highly polar oils, lecithin, fatty alcohols or waxes. However, these attempts have the following problems. Due to the heavy and dull texture or stiff feel caused by high hardness, it does not meet the preferences of consumers who want light and refreshing sensory qualities.
[0003] Therefore, it is necessary to develop a cosmetic composition that can prevent ceramide from recrystallizing and achieve a feeling of use that meets the preferences of consumers. Summary of the invention
[0004] Technical issues
[0005] Therefore, the present inventors attempted to develop a stable cosmetic composition containing ceramide having the above-mentioned problems, and for this purpose developed a cosmetic formulation based on a polyglyceryl softener.
[0006] As a result of the above efforts, it was confirmed that if ceramide is included together with a polyglyceryl softener and glyceryl stearate, gelation due to ceramide does not occur even if a non-polar oil or silicone oil that inhibits the dissolution of ceramide is formulated together, and that the stability of ceramide is ensured even during long-term storage or low-temperature storage, and that by further including myristyl myristate, a soft texture can be obtained while having high hardness, thereby completing the present invention.
[0007] Technical Solution
[0008] In order to achieve the above object, the present invention provides a cosmetic composition comprising ceramide, glyceryl stearate and a polyglyceryl softener.
[0009] In addition, another object of the present invention is to provide a use of ceramide, glyceryl stearate and a polyglyceryl softener in preparing a soft cosmetic composition having a hardness within a certain range.
[0010] In addition, another object of the present invention is to provide a method for preparing a cosmetic composition having a hardness within a certain range and being soft, which comprises the step of preparing an oil phase comprising ceramide, glyceryl stearate and a polyglyceryl softener.
[0011] Effects of the Invention
[0012] The cosmetic composition according to the present invention includes ceramide together with a polyglyceryl softener and glyceryl stearate, thereby showing an effect of ensuring the long-term storage stability of ceramide. Specifically, it was confirmed that ceramide does not gel or precipitate even when stored at room temperature or high temperature. In addition, it was confirmed that by further including myristyl myristate, it is possible to have a soft texture while having high hardness. BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS
[0013] Figure 1 This is a photograph showing the presence or absence of a polyglyceryl softener in the dosage form according to the present invention.
[0014] Figure 2 is a polarizing microscope image of the presence or absence of a polyglycerol-based softener in the dosage form according to the present invention.
[0015] Figure 3 This is a graph confirming the change in particle size of the polyglycerol-based softener in the dosage form according to the present invention.
[0016] Figure 4 : is a DSC (Differential Scanning Calorimeter) measurement graph of the presence or absence of a polyglycerol-based softener in the dosage form according to the present invention.
[0017] Figure 5 is a polarizing microscope image of polyglycerol-based softener species in the dosage form according to the present invention. DETAILED DESCRIPTION
[0018] Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in detail.
[0019] The present invention provides a cosmetic composition comprising ceramide, glyceryl stearate and a polyglyceryl softener.
[0020] It was confirmed that if ceramide is included together with a polyglyceryl softener and glyceryl stearate, gelation due to ceramide does not occur even when non-polar oil or silicone oil that inhibits the dissolution of ceramide is formulated together, and the stability of ceramide is ensured even when stored for a long time or at low temperatures. In addition, it was confirmed that by further including myristyl myristate, a soft texture can be obtained while having high hardness.
[0021] In the present invention, the ceramide may be selected from the group consisting of ceramide NP, ceramide EOP, and ceramide AP, and ceramide NP is most preferred.
[0022] The "ceramide" of the present invention is a type of sphingolipid, which is a molecule composed of sphingosine and fatty acids. Ceramide is present in large quantities in cell membranes and is involved in various cell signal transductions such as cell differentiation, growth, and apoptosis. Ceramide NP is a synthetic N-acylated sphingolipid in which a saturated or unsaturated fatty acid is combined with a phytosphingosine having a D-erythro structure, and ceramide EOP is an N-acylated sphingolipid containing a phytosphingosine having a D-erythro structure combined with an ω-hydroxy acid esterified with a saturated or unsaturated fatty acid. Ceramide AP is an N-acylated sphingolipid containing a phytosphingosine having a D-erythro structure combined with an α-hydroxy saturated or unsaturated fatty acid.
[0023] In the present invention, the content of ceramide may be 0.1 to 1% by weight, preferably 0.1 to 0.8% by weight, and more preferably 0.2 to 0.6% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. Within the scope of the present invention, for sufficient moisturizing effect, the content of ceramide is preferably 0.02% by weight or more, more preferably 0.1% by weight or more. For good sensory quality, the content of ceramide is preferably 1% by weight or less.
[0024] In the present invention, glyceryl stearate may be included, or glyceryl stearate may be included together with an anionic surfactant. Preferably, glyceryl stearate may be included together with potassium stearate or sodium stearate. More preferably, glyceryl stearate may be glyceryl stearate SE. By including glyceryl stearate SE which is a mixture of glyceryl stearate and a stearate (e.g., potassium stearate or sodium stearate), the solubility of ceramide can be improved and a composition that is stable from precipitation and separation can be manufactured.
[0025] In the present invention, the polyglyceryl softener may contain more than 6 stearate groups or isostearate groups. Preferably, polyglyceryl-n ten stearate or polyglyceryl-n ten isostearate, and the above n may be 5 or more. More preferably, the polyglyceryl softener may be polyglyceryl-10 ten isostearate. Although polyglyceryl-10 ten isostearate does not have direct ceramide solubility, it has affinity with ceramide, and the steric hindrance effect of the bulky polyglyceryl group can be expected, and it has been confirmed that when used in combination with stearyl glyceryl SE and ceramide, ceramide precipitation can be prevented, thereby achieving synergistic long-term stability.
[0026] In the present invention, glyceryl stearate and the polyglyceryl softener may be included in a mass ratio of 1:1.5 to 1:3, 1:1.7 to 1:2.5, or 1:2 to 1:2.3. When included in the cosmetic composition in the corresponding mass ratio, the effects of the present invention can be achieved.
[0027] In the present invention, the cosmetic composition may further contain myristyl myristate. If myristyl myristate is added to the composition of the present invention, it has the effect of increasing viscosity / hardness, and the increased viscosity / hardness is different from the viscosity / hardness generally formed by fatty alcohols or thickeners, presenting a soft and soft texture, thereby being able to manufacture a texture suitable for a light moisturizing cream or a hydrating cream.
[0028] The cosmetic composition according to the present invention may preferably contain 1 to 2 wt % of myristyl myristate based on the total weight of the entire cosmetic composition to achieve 18 to 60 dynes / cm 2 The hardness can be measured using a commercial rheometer such as Rheotech Fudoh Rheo Meter, and when using Rheotech Fudoh Rheo Meter, it can be measured at 25°C with a dedicated adapter No. 9, 20Φ, descending mode, and a descending speed of 2 cm / min.
[0029] In addition, the present invention provides the use of ceramide, glyceryl stearate and polyglyceryl softener in preparing a soft cosmetic composition having a hardness within a certain range. Preferably, myristyl myristate may be further included. The hardness of the "certain range" may be the hardness range described in the present invention.
[0030] In addition, the present invention provides a method for preparing a soft cosmetic composition having a hardness within a certain range, comprising the step of preparing an oil phase comprising ceramide, glyceryl stearate and a polyglyceryl softener. Preferably, myristyl myristate may be further included. The hardness of the above-mentioned "certain range" may be the hardness range described in the present invention.
[0031] The cosmetic composition according to the present invention may contain less than 3 wt% of fatty alcohol based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. Preferably, less than 2 wt%, more preferably less than 1.5 wt%, most preferably 0.5 to 1.5 wt% of fatty alcohol may be contained. A cosmetic composition containing more than 4 wt% of fatty alcohol may have the problem of a heavier feel during use.
[0032] In the present invention, the cosmetic composition can have dosage forms such as lotions such as facial lotions, body lotions, creams such as nourishing creams, moisturizing creams, eye creams, essences, cosmetic ointments, sprays, gels, facial masks, sunscreens, primers, liquid, solid or spray-type foundations, powders, etc.
[0033] In the present invention, in addition to the above-mentioned ingredients, the cosmetic composition may further contain auxiliary agents and carriers commonly used in the field of cosmetics, such as fatty substances, organic solvents, solubilizers, concentrators and gelling agents, softeners, antioxidants, suspending agents, stabilizers, foaming agents, fragrances, surfactants, water, ionic or non-ionic emulsifiers, bulking agents, metal ion blockers and chelating agents, preservatives, vitamins, blocking agents, wetting agents, essential oils, dyes, pigments, hydrophilic or lipophilic active agents, lipid vesicles or any other ingredients commonly used in cosmetics, in a range not reducing the effect of the composition.
[0034] When the cosmetic composition of the present invention is in the form of a paste, cream or gel, animal oil, vegetable oil, wax, paraffin, starch, tragacanth gum, cellulose derivatives, polyethylene glycol, silicone, bentonite, silicon dioxide, talc or zinc oxide etc. can be used as a carrier component.
[0035] When the dosage form of the cosmetic composition of the present invention is a solution or an emulsion, a solubilizer or an emulsifier is used as a carrier component, for example, water, ethanol, isopropyl alcohol, ethyl carbonate, ethyl acetate, benzyl alcohol, benzyl benzoate, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, butanediol, glycerol aliphatic ester, PEG-8, polyethylene glycol or sorbitan can be used.
[0036] The above-mentioned ingredients contained in the cosmetic composition according to the present invention may be contained in the cosmetic composition according to the present invention preferably within the range not exceeding the maximum usage amount specified in the relevant regulations of the "Cosmetic Use Permit" stipulated by the governments of various countries.
[0037] The cosmetic composition of the present invention can be used alone or repeatedly, or can be used repeatedly with other cosmetic compositions outside the present invention. In addition, the cosmetic composition of the present invention can be used according to conventional methods of use, and the number of times it is used can be changed according to the skin condition or preference of the user.
[0038] Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in detail by the following examples. However, the following examples are only used to illustrate the present invention, and the content of the present invention is not limited to the following examples.
[0039] The substances and reagents used in the present examples and comparative examples were purchased from cosmetic raw material manufacturers and commercial suppliers, and the marked contents are based on weight %.
[0040] Experimental Example 1: Effect of the presence or absence of polyglycerol-based softener in ceramide emulsified formulations
[0041] [Table 1]
[0042] Ingredient name (weight %) Comparative Example 1 Example 1 Comparative Example 2 Example 2 1 Purified water Up to 100 Up to 100 Up to 100 Up to 100 2 Carbomer 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 3 glycerin 10 10 10 10 4 1,2-Hexanediol 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 5 Trisodium EDTA 0.02 0.02 0.02 0.02 6 Tromethamine 0.08 0.08 0.08 0.08 7 Dimethicone 1 1 1 1 8 Hydrogenated polydecene 6 6 6 6 9 Polyglyceryl-10 Isostearate - 2.7 - 2.7 10 Glyceryl Stearate SE - - 1.2 1.2 11 C14-22 Alcohol & C12-20 Alkyl Glucoside 1 1 1 1 12 Ceramide NP 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 total 100 100 100 100
[0043] According to the same composition as in Table 1 above, Comparative Example 1, Comparative Example 2, Example 1 and Example 2 were prepared by the following preparation method.
[0044] Preparation method
[0045] 1. Mix ingredient 2 with a small amount of water to prepare the gum phase.
[0046] 2. Mix ingredients 1 and 3 to 6 and heat to 74 to 76°C to prepare the water phase.
[0047] 3. Mix ingredients 7 to 12 and heat to 76 to 80°C to prepare the oil phase
[0048] 4. Add the oil phase into the water phase and stir with a homogenizer
[0049] 5. Add the gel phase to the mixture in step 4 and stir with a homogenizer.
[0050] The result of method 5 is cooled to room temperature and then degassed.
[0051] The appearance of the prepared dosage form is shown in Figure 1 The polarizing microscope image is shown in Figure 2 The particle size change is shown in the figure Figure 3 The DSC (differential scanning calorimeter) measurements are shown in Figure 4 middle.
[0052] Figure 1 This is a photograph of the appearance of the dosage form according to the present invention to determine whether a polyglycerol-based softener is present. (25°C is a sample stored at 25°C for 3 months, and F / T (Freeze / Thawing) is a sample that was stored at -20°C and then taken out at room temperature and thawed, repeated 5 times, and then stored at 25°C, and then taken out together with the 25°C sample. Figure 1 The photos of Comparative Example 1 and Example 1 on the right side show the appearance of the cream when it was scooped out after being stored at 25°C for 3 months)
[0053] Figure 2 This is a polarizing microscope image showing the presence or absence of a polyglycerol-based softener in the dosage form according to the present invention. (Image of a sample stored at 25°C for 3 months)
[0054] Figure 3 This is a graph to confirm the particle size change of the presence of polyglycerol softener in the dosage form according to the present invention. (25℃ is a sample stored at 25℃ for 3 months, 50℃ is a sample stored at 50℃ for 3 months, and F / T (Freeze / Thawing) is a sample that was stored at -20℃ and taken out to room temperature and thawed, and repeated 5 times)
[0055] Figure 4 This is a DSC (differential scanning calorimeter) measurement chart of the presence or absence of a polyglycerol-based softener in the dosage form of the present invention. (Sample stored at 25°C for 3 months)
[0056] Depend on Figure 1 It was confirmed that in Comparative Example 1, since hydrogenated polydecene (non-polar oil) or polydimethylsiloxane (silicone oil), which is a component that hinders the dissolution of ceramide, was formulated together with ceramide, gelation significantly proceeded. If glyceryl stearate SE was formulated together as in Comparative Example 2, it was confirmed that gelation was suppressed even when stored for a long time at room temperature, but if exposed to a low temperature environment such as F / T, it was confirmed that stability was destroyed and gelation proceeded again. On the contrary, if polyglyceryl-10 decastearate was formulated together as in Example 1 or Example 2, it was confirmed that gelation was sufficiently suppressed even when stored for a long time at room temperature or exposed to a low temperature environment. Figure 2 From the polarizing microscope photographs, it can be observed that in Examples 1 and 2, the precipitation of ceramide is sufficiently suppressed. Figure 3 From the particle size change graph, it can be confirmed that the particle size of Example 2 is uniform and changes less depending on the temperature than that of Comparative Example 2. Figure 4 From the DSC (differential scanning calorimeter) measurement values of Comparative Example 2 and Example 2, it can be confirmed that the peak above 70°C disappears and the peak near 45°C shifts to a lower temperature. From these results, it can be confirmed that a stable dosage form can be achieved if a polyglyceryl softener (Example 1) or a polyglyceryl softener and glyceryl stearate (Example 2) are included in a dosage form containing ceramide.
[0057] Experimental Example 2: Effect of the Type of Polyglycerol-Based Softener in Ceramide Emulsion Formulations
[0058] [Table 2]
[0059] Ingredient name (weight %) Example 3 Comparative Example 3 Comparative Example 4 Comparative Example 5 1 Purified water Up to 100 Up to 100 Up to 100 Up to 100 2 Carbomer 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 3 glycerin 10 10 10 10 4 1,2-Hexanediol 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 5 Trisodium EDTA 0.02 0.02 0.02 0.02 6 Tromethamine 0.08 0.08 0.08 0.08 7 Dimethicone 1 1 1 1 8 Hydrogenated polydecene 6 6 6 6 9 Polyglyceryl-10 Isostearate 2.7 - - - 10 Polyglyceryl-10 Pentaisostearate - 2.7 - - 11 Polyglyceryl 10 diisostearate - - 2.7 - 12 Polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate - - - 2.7 13 Glyceryl Stearate SE 1.2 1.2 1.2 1.2 14 C14-22 Alcohol & C12-20 Alkyl Glucoside 1 1 1 1 15 Ceramide NP 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 16 Myristyl myristate 1.9 1.9 1.9 1.9 total 100 100 100 100
[0060] Example 3 and Comparative Examples 3 to 5 were prepared in the same manner as in Experimental Example 1 according to the same composition as in Table 2 above, and after being stored at 25°C for 4 weeks, the precipitation of ceramide was observed using a polarizing microscope. The observed images are shown in Figure 5 middle.
[0061] Figure 5 is a polarizing microscope image of the polyglycerol-based softener species in the dosage form according to the present invention. Figure 5 It was confirmed that the effect of suppressing the precipitation of ceramide decreases as the number of alkyl groups in the polyglycerol-based softener decreases, and therefore, it is necessary to keep the degree of polymerization above a certain level.
[0062] Experimental Example 3: Difference in hardness caused by the amount of myristyl myristate in the ceramide emulsion formulation
[0063] [Table 3]
[0064] Ingredient name (weight %) Example 4 Example 5 Example 6 1 Purified water Up to 100 Up to 100 Up to 100 2 Carbomer 0.1 0.1 0.1 3 glycerin 10 10 10 4 1,2-Hexanediol 1.5 1.5 1.5 5 Trisodium EDTA 0.02 0.02 0.02 6 Tromethamine 0.08 0.08 0.08 7 Dimethicone 1 1 1 8 Hydrogenated polydecene 6 6 6 9 Polyglyceryl-10 Isostearate 2 2 2 10 Glyceryl Stearate SE 1 1 1 11 C14-22 Alcohol & C12-20 Alkyl Glucoside 1 1 1 12 Ceramide NP 0.5 0.5 0.5 13 Myristyl myristate - 1 2 total 100 100 100
[0065] According to the same composition as in Table 3 above, Examples 4 to 6 were prepared by the following preparation method, and the hardness of the prepared dosage forms was measured. The hardness was measured using a Rheotech Fudoh Rheo Meter, and the hardness values measured under the following conditions are shown in Table 4.
[0066] Preparation method
[0067] 1. Mix ingredient 2 with a small amount of water to prepare the gel phase
[0068] 2. Mix ingredients 1 and 3 to 6 and heat to 74 to 76°C to prepare the water phase.
[0069] 3. Mix ingredients 7 to 13 and heat to 76 to 80°C to prepare the oil phase
[0070] 4. Add the oil phase into the water phase and stir with a homogenizer
[0071] 5. Add the gel phase to the mixture in step 4 and stir with a homogenizer.
[0072] The result of method 5 is cooled to room temperature and then degassed.
[0073] Hardness measurement conditions: Rheotech Fudoh Rheo Meter, dedicated adapter No. 9, 20Φ, down mode, down speed 2cm / min, 25mm depth, measured at 25°C
[0074] [Table 4]
[0075] Example 4 Example 5 Example 6 <![CDATA[Hardness (dyne / cm 2 )]]> 14 19 35
[0076] In order to increase the hardness of the cosmetic composition, if the content of fatty alcohol is increased as in the past, there is a problem that the feeling during use becomes heavier. In the composition according to the present invention in which the stability of ceramide is ensured, it was confirmed that the hardness can be increased without reducing the feeling during use by further including myristyl myristate instead of increasing the content of fatty alcohol (Tables 3 and 4).
[0077] These results indicate that the cosmetic composition of the present invention can also be applied to a container (jar type) that can be used only when the dosage form satisfies a certain hardness or above, and therefore, it is expected that the hardness can be appropriately adjusted as needed without affecting the feel of use.
[0078] Experimental Example 4: Softening effect of ceramide emulsified formulation with or without polyglycerol softener
[0079] [Table 5]
[0080]
[0081] Example 3 and Comparative Example 6 were prepared in the same manner as in Experimental Example 3 according to the same composition as in Table 5 above, and then hardness and satisfaction with use feeling were evaluated. The results are shown in Table 6. Table 6 confirmed that there was almost no difference in hardness depending on the presence or absence of a polyglycerol-based softener (the measurement conditions were the same as in Experimental Example 3), but in terms of sensory quality (softness satisfaction), the soft fit was further enhanced.
[0082] [Table 6]
[0083] Example 3 Example 7 <![CDATA[Hardness (dyne / cm 2 )]]> 55 53 Softness satisfaction (n=7) 4.29 4.08
[0084] Therefore, it was confirmed that the cosmetic composition of the present invention achieved high formulation stability and high softening satisfaction by containing ceramide, glyceryl stearate, a polyglyceryl softener, and additionally myristyl myristate.
Claims
1. A cosmetic composition comprising ceramide, glyceryl stearate and a polyglyceryl softener.
2. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein The ceramide is selected from the group consisting of ceramide NP, ceramide EOP, and ceramide AP.
3. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein The ceramide is present in an amount of 0.1 to 1 wt % based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
4. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein The above-mentioned glyceryl stearate is contained together with potassium stearate or sodium stearate.
5. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein The polyglyceryl softener is polyglyceryl-n decastearate or polyglyceryl-n decastearate, and n is 5 or more.
6. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein The mass ratio of the stearic acid glyceryl ester to the polyglyceryl softener is 1:1.5 to 1:
3.
7. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein The cosmetic composition further comprises myristyl myristate.
8. The cosmetic composition according to claim 6, wherein When measured using a 20Φ probe in a dedicated adapter No. 9 of a rheometer at a descending speed of 2 cm / min and a depth of 25 mm, the hardness of the cosmetic composition at 25°C is 18 to 60 dyne / cm 2 .
9. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein The cosmetic composition is in the form of a lotion, cream or gel.