Pattern making method for prototype of underpants

Abstract

The invention relates to an underpants prototype making method which comprises the following steps: step A, shaping preparation: preparing a mannequin model, veneering paper and adhesive liquid, and soaking the veneering paper in the adhesive liquid to obtain the veneering paper with adhesion performance; b, pasting paper and making a model, and pasting the area between the leg root and the waist of the mannequin model with veneering paper; c, removing the mold and flattening, namely removing the mold from the underpants paper mold, cutting off the underpants paper mold, and forming a dart until the underpants paper mold can be flatly spread, so as to obtain the underpants paper mold in a plane state; step D, pattern adjustment: adjusting and correcting the net system layout in drawing software to obtain an underpants pattern original drawing; and step E, plate making: performing shrinkage drawing on the basis of the original underpants pattern drawing obtained in the step D to obtain an underpants product pattern drawing. According to the underpants pattern obtained through the underpants pattern making method, the pattern can serve as a prototype to be directly used for making the underpants, multiple times of proofing adjustment according to an existing underpants pattern is not needed, and the working efficiency is improved.

Description

Technical Field

[0001] The present invention relates to the technical field of clothing pattern making, and particularly to a method for making a panty prototype pattern. Background Art

[0002] The pattern is a very important part of clothing styling. The pattern determines the fit and comfort of the clothing when worn. In the past, the pattern making of the close-fitting panty category has always relied on empirical values or adjustments based on similar models. Because the principle is not strong and the combination with human body data is less, and the materials, processes, etc. between styles are not completely the same, it not only leads to repeated pattern adjustments, repeated sample making, and repeated try-on in pattern adjustment. There will be problems in the wearing experience of designing the panty pattern on the above basis, such as insufficient body-hugging effect, loose pattern, and easy crotch pinching when worn, which affects the product quality. In view of this, the present invention proposes a method for making a panty pattern that is more in line with the wearer's body. Summary of the Invention

[0003] To solve the above technical problems, the present invention discloses a method for making a panty prototype pattern, which includes the following steps

[0004] Step A, shaping preparation: Prepare a mannequin model, veneer paper, and adhesive liquid. Soak the veneer paper with the adhesive liquid to obtain veneer paper with adhesion performance.

[0005] Step B, paper pasting and molding: Take the veneer paper with the adhesive liquid in Step A, and paste the veneer paper on the area between the crotch and the waist of the mannequin model until the surface of the mannequin model is no longer exposed. After pasting, dry it to obtain a three-dimensional panty paper mold wrapped outside the mannequin model.

[0006] Step C, mold removal and flattening: Take the three-dimensional panty paper mold obtained in Step B, demold it, cut it, and open darts until it can be spread flat to obtain a flat panty paper mold. The darts include through darts and flat mold darts. The through darts are darts opened on the paper mold and can divide and detach the paper mold to form separate sub-mold pieces. The sub-mold pieces include flattened sub-mold pieces and unflattened sub-mold pieces. The flat mold darts are opened on the unflattened sub-mold pieces and can make the sub-mold piece where the flat mold darts are located spread flat to reach the flattening standard.

[0007] Step D, pattern adjustment: Draw the shape of the flat panty paper mold obtained in Step C into a drawing software to obtain a net body drawing, and adjust and correct the net body drawing in the drawing software to obtain the original panty pattern drawing.

[0008] Step E, pattern making: Perform a reduced-scale drawing on the original panty pattern drawing obtained in Step D to obtain the panty product pattern drawing.

[0009] Specifically, the cutting positions of the paper mold in step C correspond to the positions of the side seams, front crotch seams, and back crotch seams of the underwear, forming a front piece, a back piece, and a bottom crotch piece. The front piece is provided with a through dart at the position corresponding to the abdominal high point, and the back piece is provided with a through dart at the position corresponding to the hip high point. The through dart opened at the position corresponding to the hip high point is in a "cross" shape, and one of the "cross" darts is arranged from the waist to the crotch direction, dividing the back piece into four pieces. Two through darts are also opened on the sub-mold piece clamped by the side seam and the top edge, and the opening direction is the same as the waistline direction, dividing the sub-mold piece corresponding to the front side of the upper buttocks into three sub-mold pieces from the waist to the crotch direction, and two flat mold darts are opened on the bottom piece of the sub-mold piece corresponding to the front side of the upper buttocks that is divided into three pieces.

[0010] Specifically, the two flat mold darts are opened at the top edge of the bottom piece of the sub-mold piece corresponding to the front side of the upper buttocks, and the opening direction is from the waist to the crotch direction.

[0011] Specifically, the flattening standard is that the height difference between the highest point of the upper arc surface of the paper mold clamped between adjacent darts and the plane on which the paper mold is placed is ≤ 1 mm.

[0012] Specifically, the through dart is opened in a "cross" shape on the front piece, and the longitudinal dart of the "cross" coincides with the front center line of the front piece. The transverse dart extends horizontally from the abdominal high point of the front piece as the center of the "cross" towards the back piece direction, dividing the front piece into two sub-mold pieces, and the front piece is divided into front piece A and front piece B.

[0013] Specifically, the through dart is opened in a "cross" shape on the back piece, and the center point of the "cross" coincides with the hip high point on the back piece, dividing the back piece into four sub-mold pieces, and the back piece is divided into back piece A and back piece B with a waistline, and back piece C and back piece D with a leg circumference line;

[0014] The through dart is also opened on back piece A and back piece B, and back piece A and back piece B are respectively divided into three pieces with the length direction of the waistline as the reference direction. Back piece A is divided into back piece A1, back piece A2, and back piece A3, and back piece B is divided into back piece B1, back piece B2, and back piece B3. On back piece A3, two flat mold darts are opened at the top edge adjacent to back piece A2, and the direction is from the waist to the crotch direction.

[0015] Specifically, the adjustment and correction in step D include splitting, splicing, and dart transfer. The splitting is to split and separate at the positions corresponding to the two flat mold darts on back piece A1 and back piece A2, respectively forming back piece A1a, back piece A1b, back piece A1c, and back piece A2a, back piece A2b, and back piece A2c;

[0016] The splicing is to splice and combine adjacent split mold pieces. By splicing and combining the split mold pieces, side seam darts, back piece dart X, back piece dart Y, back piece dart Z and thigh circumference darts are left. The side seam dart is located at the side seam position where the front piece and the back piece meet. The back piece dart X and the back piece dart Y are located at the positions of two flat mold darts on the back piece A3. The back piece dart Z and the thigh circumference dart are located on the longitudinal dividing line of the cross-shaped through dart on the back piece;

[0017] The dart transfer is to transfer the dart amounts of the flat mold dart and the back piece dart Y on the net body pattern drawing to the side seam dart, the back piece dart X, the back piece dart Z and the thigh circumference dart.

[0018] Specifically, the back piece dart X and the back piece dart Y are two darts that are left after splicing and combining the back piece A1a, the back piece A2a and the back piece A3 at the through dart position, the back piece A1b, the back piece A2b and the back piece A3 at the through dart position, and the back piece A1c, the back piece A2c and the back piece A3 at the through dart position, and the darts open up to the waistline position.

[0019] Specifically, in the reduction pattern drafting in step E, the waist circumference and hip circumference of the original underwear pattern are shortened from the initial size to the target size.

[0020] Specifically, the target size of the underwear waist circumference is obtained through the calculation formula:

[0021] Reduced waist circumference length = (39 - 0.41a) / 2, and the X value is the size when the fabric is stretched to the maximum at 10 cm.

[0022] Advantages and effects

[0023] For the underwear pattern obtained by the underwear pattern making method of the present invention, taking this pattern as the prototype pattern of the underwear, when the style of the underwear to be made is the same as the pattern obtained by the underwear pattern making method of the present invention, this pattern can be directly used as a prototype for making underwear without additional sample making and adjustment, improving work efficiency. The underwear made with this pattern has a horizontal waist position, a vertical side seam, and a high degree of fit when worn, and the bottom crotch fits well and is not easy to pinch the crotch; and in actual use, for underwear of different sizes, the data of the wearer can be collected to obtain different mannequin models, and then the underwear pattern making method of the present invention can be used for adaptive pattern making for different sizes, reducing the process of repeated trial wearing and adjustment, and does not require the operator to have a lot of experience in sample making and adjustment. Brief description of the drawings

[0024] Figure 1 It is one of the schematic diagrams of the underwear prototype pattern making steps of the present invention;

[0025] Figure 2 It is the second of the schematic diagrams of the underwear prototype pattern making steps of the present invention;

[0026] Figure 3It is the third schematic diagram of the steps for making the prototype of the underwear of the present invention;

[0027] Figure 4 It is the fourth schematic diagram of the steps for making the prototype of the underwear of the present invention;

[0028] Figure 5 It is the fifth schematic diagram of the steps for making the prototype of the underwear of the present invention;

[0029] Figure 6 It is the sixth schematic diagram of the steps for making the prototype of the underwear of the present invention;

[0030] Figure 7 It is the seventh schematic diagram of the steps for making the prototype of the underwear of the present invention;

[0031] Figure 8 It is the eighth schematic diagram of the steps for making the prototype of the underwear of the present invention;

[0032] Figure 9 It is the ninth schematic diagram of the steps for making the prototype of the underwear of the present invention;

[0033] Figure 10 It is the tenth schematic diagram of the steps for making the prototype of the underwear of the present invention;

[0034] Figure 11 It is the eleventh schematic diagram of the steps for making the prototype of the underwear of the present invention;

[0035] Figure 12 It is the physical diagram of the underwear sample made by using the steps for making the prototype of the underwear of the present invention for plate making and proofing;

[0036] Figure 13 It is the physical diagram of the underwear sample made for Comparative Example 1;

[0037] Figure 14 It is the physical diagram of the underwear sample made for Comparative Example 2. Specific embodiments

[0038] Next, the technical solutions in the embodiments of the present invention will be clearly and completely described in conjunction with the accompanying drawings in the embodiments of the present invention. Obviously, the described embodiments are the preferred embodiments of the present invention and should not be regarded as excluding other embodiments. Based on the embodiments of the present invention, all other embodiments obtained by those of ordinary skill in the art without making creative efforts belong to the scope of protection of the present invention.

[0039] In the claims, the description and the above-mentioned accompanying drawings of the present invention, unless otherwise clearly defined, when using terms such as "first", "second" or "third", etc., are for distinguishing different objects and not for describing a specific order.

[0040] In the claims, description and above-mentioned drawings of the present invention, unless otherwise clearly defined, for orientation terms, such as the use of terms "center", "horizontal", "longitudinal", "level", "vertical", "top", "bottom", "inner", "outer", "upper", "lower", "front", "rear", "left", "right", "clockwise", "counterclockwise", etc. to indicate orientation or positional relationship are based on the orientation and positional relationship shown in the drawings, and are only for the convenience of describing the present invention and simplifying the description, rather than indicating or implying that the device or element referred to must have a specific orientation or be constructed and operated in a specific orientation, so it should not be construed as limiting the specific protection scope of the present invention.

[0041] In the claims, description and above-mentioned drawings of the present invention, unless otherwise clearly defined, if the terms "fixed connection" or "fixedly connected" are used, they should be understood in a broad sense, that is, any connection method without displacement relationship and relative rotation relationship between the two, that is to say, it includes non-detachable fixed connection, detachable fixed connection, being integrally connected, and being fixed connected through other devices or elements.

[0042] In the claims, description and above-mentioned drawings of the present invention, if the terms "comprise", "have" and their variants are used, they are intended to mean "including but not limited to".

[0043] Many specific details are set forth in the following description in order to provide a thorough understanding of the present invention. However, the present invention can be implemented in many other ways different from those described herein, and those skilled in the art can make similar improvements without departing from the connotation of the present invention. Therefore, the present invention is not limited by the specific implementations disclosed below. Unless otherwise defined, all technical and scientific terms used herein have the same meaning as commonly understood by those of ordinary skill in the technical field to which the present invention belongs. The terms used in the description of the present invention herein are only for the purpose of describing specific embodiments and are not intended to limit the present invention.

[0044] The present invention relates to a method for making a prototype pattern of underwear, which comprises the following steps: Step A, shaping preparation. Prepare a mannequin model, veneer paper and adhesive liquid. Soak the veneer paper with the adhesive liquid to obtain veneer paper with adhesive performance. The mannequin model can use a mannequin model of standard size. Then wipe the surface of the mannequin model clean and set it aside. It should be noted that the mannequin model used here is preferably a mannequin with a smooth surface, which is more conducive to subsequent demolding operations compared with a mannequin with a rough surface. After the veneer paper is soaked with the adhesive liquid, it needs to wait until the veneer paper is completely soaked by the adhesive liquid before it can be used for subsequent adhesion to the mannequin model, which can prevent the existence of adhesion gaps and thus improve the overall flatness of the paper mold in the future. Specifically, the veneer paper uses rice paper, either raw rice paper or cooked rice paper is acceptable, and the adhesive liquid uses a mixed solution of water and white latex, which is prepared in a ratio of water: white latex = 1:5 or 1:6, and then mixed evenly for use.

[0045] Step B: Sticker Molding. Take the veneer paper with adhesive liquid in Step A, and stick the veneer paper on the area between the root of the leg and the waist of the mannequin model until the surface of the mannequin model is no longer exposed. After sticking, let it dry to obtain a three-dimensional underwear paper mold. During the operation, use the stickiness of the adhesive liquid to stick the veneer paper on the surface of the mannequin model. Specifically, the sticking position is in the area between the root of the leg and the waistline of the mannequin model. Only half of the body needs to be stuck, and here half of the body refers to the side half of the mannequin, with the midline between the two crotches as the dividing line of the half body. It should be noted that when sticking the veneer paper, try to make the veneer paper fit and flatten to prevent wrinkles, which will affect the quality of the subsequent pattern drawing. After starting to stick, after the first piece is stuck on the mannequin surface, the next piece needs to press on the edge of the previous piece, and so on for the subsequent veneer paper. It is necessary to ensure that at least one side is pressed on other veneer papers until the entire surface of the mannequin model is completely stuck. After sticking, place it for a period of time until the veneer paper on the mannequin is completely dry. Because one piece is pressed on the edge of another piece for sticking, the thickness of the paper mold will not be too thick, and it can be directly observed or felt by hand to know whether the veneer paper is dry. After being completely dry, the veneer paper forms a hard shell covering half of the side body of the mannequin model for subsequent plate-making work;

[0046] Step C: Demolding and Flattening. Take the three-dimensional underwear paper mold obtained in Step B, demold it, cut it, and open darts until it can be spread flat to obtain a flat-state underwear paper mold. The darts include through darts and flat darts. The through dart is a dart opened on the paper mold and can divide and separate the paper mold into separate sub-mold pieces. The sub-mold pieces include flattened sub-mold pieces and unflattened sub-mold pieces. The flat dart is opened on the unflattened sub-mold piece and can make the sub-mold piece where the flat dart is located spread flat to reach the flattening standard;

[0047] The specific operation is as follows: First, the above-mentioned paper mold hard shell needs to be detached from the model. After the paper mold dries, it fits the shape of the human waist and hips. However, because only half of the side body is stuck, the dried paper mold can open enough space and can be directly detached from the mannequin model. The detached paper mold is in the shape of half of an underwear. At this time, it needs to be split and cut. First, split the paper mold into front, back, and bottom crotch pieces, and then open through darts at fixed positions on the front and back pieces. The function of the through dart is to split the paper mold from the whole into separate sub-mold pieces. The fixed positions refer to the hip apex and abdominal apex of the paper mold. Taking the hip apex and abdominal apex as the fixed center points, make a "cross"-shaped dividing line, and the dividing line that forms the through sub-mold piece is the through dart. Specifically, first cut the paper mold from the side seam, front crotch seam, and back crotch seam. After cutting, the paper mold is divided into three pieces, namely the front piece, the back piece, and the bottom crotch piece. The three pieces of paper mold are still in the state of a three-dimensional model, and then start to flatten the three pieces of paper mold;

[0048] In this invention patent, for the standard of the flattened state of the paper pattern, the technical solution of the present invention uses the height difference between the highest point of the upper arc surface of the paper pattern sandwiched between adjacent darts and the plane on which the paper pattern is placed ≤ 1 mm as the standard for determining whether the paper pattern is in a flattened state.

[0049] For the front piece: Locate the position corresponding to the abdominal high point on the front piece. The position of the abdominal high point is at the center position. Since the paper pattern used in the present invention is a half-body paper pattern, the abdominal high point is exactly on the front mid-edge line of the front piece. Take the front mid-edge line of the front piece as one of the longitudinal lines of the "cross" dividing line, and then make a transverse division to divide the front piece into two pieces, front piece A and front piece B (the order from front piece A to front piece B is from the waist to the crotch direction of the front piece, see Figure 1 , and the dividing line see Figure 1 the dotted line in

[0050] For the back piece: Locate the position corresponding to the hip high point on the back piece. Take the hip high point as the origin of the "cross" dividing line. The direction of the longitudinal dividing line is from the top line to the bottom line of the back piece. Then, using the longitudinal dividing line as a reference, make a transverse dividing line for the "cross" division to divide the back piece into four pieces, back piece A, back piece B, back piece C, and back piece D (the order from back piece A to back piece D is from the side seam to the back midline, see Figure 2 , and the "cross" dividing line see Figure 2 the dotted line in

[0051] As Figure 1 shown, after dividing the front piece and the back piece into sub-patterns through through-darts, it is also necessary to open through-darts for through-division on specific sub-patterns. Among them: On front piece A, open an oblique through-dart from the side seam to the front midline and inclined towards the crotch direction, so that front piece A is further divided into front piece A1 and front piece A2;

[0052] As Figure 2 shown, on back piece A and back piece B, taking the length direction of the waistline at the top edge as the reference direction, transversely open two through-darts in the middle section of back piece A and back piece B to divide back piece A into three pieces, namely back piece A1, back piece A2, and back piece A3 (in the order from the waist to the crotch direction), and divide back piece B into three pieces, namely back piece B1, back piece B2, and back piece B3 (in the order from the waist to the crotch direction); it should be noted that the lengths of back piece A1, back piece A2, and back piece A3, and back piece B1, back piece B2, and back piece B3 are gradually increasing in the direction from the waist to the crotch.

[0053] As Figure 2As shown, two non-penetrating flat pattern darts for flattening the back piece A3 are opened at the top edge of the back piece A3, and the opening direction is from the top edge to the bottom edge of the back piece A3. And at the middle position of the back piece A3, the back piece A3 can reach the flattened state required in this application.

[0054] After the above steps, the front pieces A1, A2, B, the back pieces A1, A2, A3, B1, B2, B3, C, D and the crotch piece are obtained. Among them, the front pieces A1, A2, the back pieces A1, A2, A3, B1, B2, B3 and the crotch piece already meet the standard of flattening the paper pattern of this application and can be directly used for subsequent plate making. However, the front piece B, the back pieces C and D have not yet reached the flattening standard in this application, and flat pattern darts need to be further opened on their basis so that each of the front piece B, the back pieces C and D can reach the flattened state of this application standard.

[0055] Specifically, after opening flat pattern darts on the front piece B, the back pieces C and D to meet the flattening standard of this application, all the split pattern pieces have completed the flattening operation and can be used for subsequent underwear plate making steps.

[0056] Step D, pattern adjustment. Piece together the flat underwear patterns obtained in Step C, and then adjust the pattern drawing. Draw the pattern drawing along the contour of the flat pattern to obtain the net body drawing.

[0057] As Figures 3 - 8 shown, place the flattened split pattern pieces and the crotch piece obtained in Step C in corresponding positions and lay them on the drawing paper. Their positions can be fixed by pressing with heavy objects or holding by hand. Then draw along their contours on the drawing paper, and transfer their shapes and the darts on them onto the drawing paper according to the actual sample of the flattened paper pattern to obtain the net body drawing. Then, input the net body drawing into the drawing software, such as AI or CAD, etc., through scanning or drawing to obtain an electronic and editable net body drawing. See Figure 3 for subsequent adjustment and correction, and all subsequent operations use this electronic net body drawing for drawing or adjustment on the drawing software.

[0058] The adjustment and correction include splicing and merging the split pattern pieces with the crotch piece with each other, further splitting the split pattern pieces, splicing and merging the further split split pattern pieces with each other, and transferring the remaining flat pattern darts and through darts after completing the splicing and merging.

[0059] Specifically, as Figure 4 shown in the front piece, first splice and merge the front piece A2 and the front piece B at the position where the through dart is opened, and splice and merge the front piece B and the crotch piece at the position of the front crotch seam line, as Figure 4The back pieces A3, B3, C, and D shown in the back piece are joined and merged at the positions of the "cross-shaped" through darts with the gluteal high point as the origin, and the front piece and the back piece are integrally joined and merged at the side seam. The back pieces B1, B2, B3, and D are joined and merged;

[0060] As Figure 4 and Figure 5 shown, on the back pieces A1 and A2, at the positions corresponding to the two flat pattern darts on the back piece A3 (using the ratio of the distance from the side seam to the two flat pattern darts to the overall length as the corresponding reference basis, and the split dividing lines can be seen in the dashed lines on the back pieces A1 and A2 in Figure 4 ), the back pieces A1 and A2 are split from the top edge to the bottom edge. The back pieces A1 and A2 are further divided into three sub-pattern pieces each, namely back piece A1a, back piece A1b, back piece A1c, back piece A2a, back piece A2b, and back piece A2c (the order direction is the horizontal direction from the side seam to the back center line, see Figure 5 );

[0061] As Figure 6 shown, the back piece A1a, back piece A2a, and back piece A3 are joined and merged at the through dart position. The back piece A1b, back piece A2b, and back piece A3 are joined and merged at the through dart position. The back piece A1c, back piece A2c, and back piece A3 are joined and merged at the through dart position;

[0062] As Figure 5 shown in the front piece in

[0063] the front piece A1 and front piece A2 are joined and merged at the position of the diagonal through dart. Due to the opening direction of the diagonal through dart, the original opening position near the side seam is used as the contact position for joining and merging. After joining and merging, there is no longer a dart opening on the front piece A. The length of the overlapping part of the dart edges caused by the closing of the darts on the front piece A1 and front piece A2 is directly used as the front crotch line on the front center line, that is, the compensation amount for the front rise crotch length, and there is no need to transfer the dart anymore; Figure 6 and Figure 7 shown, by splitting and then joining and merging between the sub-pattern pieces, finally on the net body pattern drawing, there are side seam darts between the front piece and the back piece, and there are back piece darts X, Y, and Z on the back piece from the waist to the crotch direction (see Figure 6Back piece part), on the leg circumference line of the back piece, there are leg circumference darts from the crotch to the waist direction. Among them, back piece dart X and back piece dart Y are located at the positions of two flat pattern darts on back piece A3, and are spliced and merged at the through dart position through back piece A1a, back piece A2a and back piece A3. Back piece A1b, back piece A2b and back piece A3 are spliced and merged at the through dart position. After back piece A1c, back piece A2c and back piece A3 are spliced and merged at the through dart position, two darts that open to the waistline position are left. Back piece dart Z and the leg circumference dart are both the longitudinal dividing lines of the original "cross" through dart of the back piece. On this basis, the dart is transferred. The flat pattern darts on the front piece B and the back piece C are respectively transferred to the side seam dart and the leg circumference dart. The dart amount of back piece dart Y is evenly divided and transferred to back piece dart X and back piece dart Z. It should be noted that before transferring the dart amount of back piece dart Y to back piece dart X and back piece dart Z, it is necessary to first extend the dart depth of the two flat pattern darts on back piece A3. The specific operation is to make an extension line along the opening direction of the flat pattern dart on back piece A3 until it reaches the lower edge of back piece A3 and generates an intersection with the lower edge. The intersection on the lower edge of back piece A3 is used as the rotation point when transferring the dart, referring to Figure 6 and Figure 7 , to obtain a net body pattern diagram with the front piece, the bottom crotch piece and the back piece merged together;

[0064] As Figure 8 shown, then adjust the front center line of the front piece to be vertical, adjust the top edge of the front piece to be horizontal, make the back center line of the back piece parallel to the front center line of the front piece, and adjust the top edge of the back piece to be on the same straight line as the top edge of the front piece to obtain the original underwear pattern diagram, completing the pattern adjustment step. The original underwear pattern diagram obtained in this step is used for subsequent plate-making steps for adjustment and correction.

[0065] Step E, plate-making, perform reduced-scale drawing on the basis of the original underwear pattern diagram obtained in step D to obtain the final underwear product pattern diagram;

[0066] As Figures 9 to 11 shown, the original underwear pattern diagram finally obtained in step D is almost the original size of the paper pattern. The initial underwear paper pattern is pasted on the mold table, and its upper edge takes the waistline position of the model dummy as the reference line for the upper edge. However, for underwear actually worn, usually the waistline position of the waistband is lower than the thinnest part of the wearer's waist, that is, the waistline. Therefore, it is first necessary to intercept the waistline position. Draw an auxiliary line for the hip circumference line on the original underwear pattern diagram, parallel to the waistline. Select the position at 1 / 2 of the distance between the hip circumference line and the waistline to draw an auxiliary line parallel to the waistline, which is the waistline position. See the dotted line position in Figure 9 . Cut off the part above the waistline position on the original underwear pattern diagram. The cut-off part is shown in Figure 9The shaded part in [it] is reduced in size on the original drawing of the underwear pattern after cutting off the part above the waistline (for the convenience of understanding the technical solution of the plate-making of the present invention in terms of the structural names of the underwear, in the following technical solutions, the "underwear waistline" is used to represent the above-mentioned "waistline");

[0067] As Figure 10 shown, before reducing the size, it is also necessary to transfer the leg circumference dart on the back piece from the leg circumference line to the back center line of the back piece. The specific position is on the shortest connecting line from the upper hip point to the back center line on the back piece, obtaining the back hip dart. After transferring the dart, the intersection position of the leg circumference line and the back crotch seam on the back piece can be fixed, which is used to determine the position of reducing the size;

[0068] Since the fabrics used for underwear products are all elastic fabrics when the underwear is actually worn and used, for the original drawing of the underwear pattern made of paper mold underwear in this application, it is necessary to reduce the size to adapt to underwear fabrics with different stretching degrees. The specific operation is as follows: First, determine the position of reducing the size. Because in actual wearing, the front crotch, bottom crotch piece on the front piece, and the back crotch on the back piece have a relatively small demand for elastic stretching. First, intercept the distance of the front crotch. The width of the front crotch is: make a horizontal dividing line at the narrowest point of the bottom crotch piece, select the part close to the front crotch, make a horizontal auxiliary line at the 1 / 2 position between the dividing line and the front crotch seam, and the intersection of the auxiliary line and the bottom crotch edge of the arc. The distance between this intersection and the front crotch seam is the width of the front crotch, as Figure 10 shown by the distance of L1 in [it]; select the back crotch intersection of the leg circumference line and the back crotch seam on the back piece, make an auxiliary line parallel to the back center line at this point, obtain the intersection of the auxiliary line and the underwear waistline of the back piece, and use the intersection as the dividing line. The distance from the intersection to the back center line is not reduced in size, and the distance from the intersection to the side seam is the width that needs to be reduced in size, as Figure 10 shown by the distance of L2 in [it]. After determining the part to be reduced in size, start the operation of reducing the size;

[0069] The operation of reducing the size is limited to reducing the above width, and the longitudinal length of the underwear is not involved in the operation of reducing the size. Specifically, the reduction of the size is carried out proportionally. First, it is necessary to calculate the waistline length of the pattern and correct the underwear pattern drawing according to the proportion. The current original drawing of the underwear pattern in the drawing software, although it has undergone operations such as dart transfer, its underwear waistline length is equal to the waistline length of the mannequin, that is, the waistline length is the original waistline length A. Taking the side seam as the dividing line, divide the original waistline length A into two sections and represent them in proportion, that is, the front piece: back piece of the original waistline length = X:Y. Use the waistline length formula to calculate the waistline length after reducing the size:

[0070] Waistline length = (39 - 0.41a) / 2, (the a value is the size when the fabric is stretched to the maximum at 10 cm);

[0071] The result calculated by the above formula is the waist length of the original underwear pattern after shrinking. The waist length after shrinking is calculated by the ratio of X:Y, and the length of the front piece's unshrinked waist length is subtracted from the front piece's shrunken waist length, and the length of the back piece's unshrunken waist length is subtracted from the back piece's shrunken waist length. The obtained result is directly modified on the original underwear pattern in the software, and the pattern image is changed by changing the line length to complete the waist shrinking of the underwear pattern.

[0072] It is also necessary to reduce the hip circumference. The hip circumference is reduced at the reduction ratio of the waist circumference. Specifically, calculate the ratio of the original waist circumference length of the underwear to the waist circumference length after reduction, and apply the ratio directly to the hip circumference. The result is the hip circumference length after reduction. Enter the obtained length value into the original underwear pattern of the software, shorten the hip circumference length of the pattern, and complete the underwear pattern reduction work. Figure 11 Final version of the panty pattern shown;

[0073] The underwear pattern obtained by the above steps can be directly used as a prototype for the production of underwear, without the need for multiple sample adjustments based on the existing underwear pattern, thereby improving work efficiency. The underwear produced by the pattern has a horizontal waist, vertical side seams, a high degree of fit when worn, and a close fit at the bottom crotch that is not easily pinched.

[0074] In practical applications, for underwear of different sizes, the data of the wearer can be collected to obtain different mannequin models, and the underwear plate making method of the present invention can be used to make adaptive plates for different sizes. There is no need to use the pattern in the textbook for repeated proofing and adjustment, and the process of repeated trial wearing and adjustment is no longer necessary, and the operator is also required to have certain adjustment experience. By using the plate making steps of the present invention, it is possible to directly obtain the underwear pattern that can be used in production, and the pattern is more closely integrated with the human body data, and there is no need for repeated adjustment work, which greatly improves work efficiency.

[0075] Through the above steps, the produced underwear pattern can be directly used, the number of proofing times can be reduced, and the plate-making efficiency can be improved. The produced underwear has a high degree of fit and does not pinch the crotch. In the process of conducting the experiment, we adopted the following several schemes, and the results can achieve the effects of the present invention, which are as follows:

[0076] Example 1

[0077] The above steps A to E are performed to make a panty plate, wherein in step C, a dart is provided on the front piece B. Specifically, a dart is provided at the edge where the front piece B and the front piece A2 meet. The dart is provided from the top edge to the bottom edge of the front piece B, but does not pass through the front piece B. The number of darts provided is 2-3. In this embodiment, two darts are provided on the front piece B. For details, see Figure 3There are two flat pattern darts on the front panel B, and the front panel B can reach the flattened standard state in this application.

[0078] Embodiment 2

[0079] Based on Embodiment 1, in this embodiment, a darting operation is also performed on the back panel C in step C. On the leg circumference edge of the back panel C, non-through darts are opened in the direction towards the center point of the "cross" dividing line of the back panel, and the number of darts opened is 1-2. In this embodiment, one dart is opened. For details, please refer to Figure 3 The flat pattern dart on the back panel C at the leg circumference, and the back panel C can reach the flattened standard state in this application.

[0080] Embodiment 3

[0081] Based on Embodiment 2, in this embodiment, a darting operation is also performed on the back panel D in step C. On the back middle line edge of the back panel D, horizontal non-through darts are opened, and the number of darts opened is 1-2. In this embodiment, one dart is opened. For details, please refer to Figure 3 The flat pattern dart on the back panel D at the back middle line, and the back panel D can reach the flattened standard state in this application.

[0082] Embodiment 4

[0083] Based on Embodiment 3, in this embodiment, operations are carried out according to steps A to E of this application. After obtaining the underwear pattern drawing, pattern making and underwear production are carried out according to the final underwear pattern drawing. During the production process, the crotch bottom of the original final underwear pattern drawing is completely fitted to the crotch. In order to make the middle line of the back hip of the produced underwear not completely fit tightly to the gluteal sulcus, and to compensate for the front crotch line compensation amount generated when the front panels A1 and A2 are merged, 3 cm is added to the total crotch length during pattern making. Finally, an underwear sample is obtained, and this sample is tried on a dress form.

[0084] Comparative Example 1

[0085] In this comparative example, the "mid-waist thong" pattern in "70 Examples of Underwear, Nightgown, and Loungewear Patterns" published by Chemical Industry Press is used for pattern making to produce an underwear sample. The style of the produced underwear sample is selected to correspond to the pattern in the reference book. During the production process, sample making adjustments are made, and after adjustment, the pattern is finalized, and an underwear sample is produced according to the finalized pattern. The produced underwear sample is put on a dress form corresponding to the size of this pattern.

[0086] Comparative Example 2

[0087] In this comparative example, the underwear sample was made by draping based on the "basic briefs structure drawing" pattern in the "Underwear Structure Design Tutorial" published by China Textile & Apparel Press. The style of the underwear sample made was selected to correspond to the pattern in the reference book. During the production process, after proofing and adjustment, the pattern was finalized, and the underwear sample was made according to the finalized pattern. The made underwear sample was put on a mannequin corresponding to the size of this pattern.

[0088] The underwear sample made in Comparative Example 1 was put on a mannequin. As Figure 13 shown, it can be seen from the figure the wearing state of the underwear. There is too much allowance in the front crotch and it is not flat. In addition, there is a certain amount of fabric accumulation at the position of the crotch bottom near the front abdomen.

[0089] The underwear sample made in Comparative Example 2 was put on a mannequin. As Figure 14 shown, it can be seen from the figure the wearing state of the underwear. At the position of the center seam of the back crotch, there is a situation where the fabric of both buttocks accumulates towards the center line.

[0090] In addition, it should be noted that during the draping process of making underwear by the fashion designers in Comparative Example 1 and Comparative Example 2, proofing and adjustment operations were carried out 2 - 3 times. Even when using the pattern in the book to make underwear of the corresponding style, several proofing and adjustment operations are required to achieve Figure 13 or Figure 14 the state of the physical underwear. It can be seen from the finished underwear produced that if a better body - fitting effect of the underwear is required, the crotch part of the pattern, including the front crotch and the back crotch parts, still needs to be adjusted.

[0091] The underwear sample finally obtained according to the operation of Example 4 was put on a mannequin. Without referring to Figure 12 , after trying it on, it was found that the underwear has a high wearing fit, there is no problem of fabric accumulation at the crotch bottom, the back buttocks fit well, but the fit at the gluteal cleft is appropriate and there is no problem of being too tight. The underwear waistband is basically in a horizontal state, the side seams are vertical, and the wearing performance is fitting. Moreover, when making the underwear using the underwear pattern of the present invention, only the crotch length of the underwear pattern was adjusted during proofing, and the adjusted value can be directly used as the crotch length compensation amount obtained by merging the front piece A1 and the front piece A2 during the plate - making step, significantly reducing the number of proofing and adjustment operations during the draping process and improving work efficiency.

[0092] Obviously, the above - mentioned embodiments of the present invention are merely examples for clearly explaining the present invention, rather than limiting the embodiments of the present invention. For those of ordinary skill in the art, other different forms of changes or variations can be made based on the above description. It is impossible to list all the embodiments here. Any obvious changes or variations derived from the technical solutions of the present invention still fall within the protection scope of the present invention.

Claims

1. A method for making a prototype of underwear, characterized in that: It includes the following steps Step A, shaping preparation, preparing a mannequin model, veneer paper and adhesive liquid, soaking the veneer paper in the adhesive liquid to obtain veneer paper with adhesive properties; Step B, making a mold with stickers, taking the veneer paper with adhesive liquid in step A, and pasting the veneer paper all over the area between the legs and the waist of the mannequin until the surface of the mannequin is no longer exposed, and drying after pasting, to obtain a three-dimensional underwear paper mold wrapped outside the mannequin; Step C, demolding and flattening, taking the three-dimensional underwear paper mold obtained in step B, demolding, cutting, and opening darts on it until it can be spread flat, so as to obtain a underwear paper mold in a planar state, wherein the darts include through darts and flat mold darts, the through darts are darts opened on the paper mold and capable of splitting and detaching the paper mold to form separate parting pieces, the parting pieces include flattened parting pieces and unflattened parting pieces, the flat mold darts are opened on the unflattened parting pieces, and can make the parting pieces where the flat mold darts are located spread flat to meet the flattening standard; Step D, pattern adjustment, drawing the shape of the underwear paper mold in the plane state obtained in step C into the drawing software to obtain a net system pattern, and adjusting and correcting the net system pattern in the drawing software to obtain the original pattern of the underwear; Step E, plate making, is to perform plate reduction based on the original underwear pattern image obtained in step D to obtain an underwear product pattern image.

2. The method for making a prototype of underwear according to claim 1, characterized in that: The positions where the paper mold is cut in step C correspond to the positions of the side seams, front crotch seams and back crotch seams of the underwear, forming a front piece, a back piece and a bottom crotch piece. The front piece is provided with a through dart at a position corresponding to the high point of the abdomen, and the back piece is provided with a through dart at a position corresponding to the high point of the hips, and the through dart provided at the position corresponding to the high point of the hips is in a "cross" shape, and one of the "cross" shaped darts is arranged from the waist to the crotch direction, the back piece is divided into four pieces, two through darts are further provided on the splitting piece sandwiched by the side seams and the top edge, and the opening direction is in the same direction as the waistline, the splitting piece corresponding to the front side of the upper buttocks is divided into three splitting pieces from the waist to the crotch direction, and two flat mold darts are provided on the bottom piece of the splitting piece on the front side of the upper buttocks that is divided into three pieces.

3. The method for making a prototype of underwear according to claim 2, characterized in that: The two flat darts are provided at the top edge of the bottom piece of the upper hip front parting piece, and the direction of the two flat darts is from the waist to the crotch.

4. The method for making a prototype of underwear according to claim 1, characterized in that: The flattening standard is that the height difference between the highest point of the arc surface of the paper mold sandwiched between adjacent darts and the plane on which the paper mold is placed is ≤1mm.

5. The method for making a prototype of underwear according to claim 3, characterized in that: The through dart is opened in a "cross" shape on the front piece, and the longitudinal dart of the "cross" shape coincides with the front center line of the front piece, and the transverse dart extends horizontally toward the rear piece with the belly high point of the front piece as the center of the "cross", dividing the front piece into two split mold pieces, and the divided front piece forms front piece A and front piece B.

6. The method for making a prototype of underwear according to claim 5, characterized in that: The through dart is opened in a "cross" shape on the back piece, and the center point of the "cross" coincides with the hip high point on the back piece, dividing the back piece into four split mold pieces, and the divided back piece forms a back piece A and a back piece B with a waistline, and a back piece C and a back piece D with a legline; The through dart is also opened on the back piece A and the back piece B, and the back piece A and the back piece B are divided into three pieces respectively with the length direction of the waistline as the reference direction. The back piece A is divided into back piece A1, back piece A2 and back piece A3, and the back piece B is divided into back piece B1, back piece B2 and back piece B3. On the back piece A3, two flat darts in the direction from waist to crotch are opened on the top edge adjacent to the back piece A2.

7. The method for making a prototype of underwear according to claim 1, characterized in that: The adjustment and correction in step D includes splitting, splicing and dart transfer, wherein the splitting is splitting and disassembling the back piece A1 and the back piece A2 at positions corresponding to two flat darts on the back piece A3 to form the back piece A1a, the back piece A1b, the back piece A1c, and the back piece A2a, the back piece A2b and the back piece A2c respectively; The splicing is to splice and merge adjacent mold split pieces, and a side seam dart, a back piece dart X, a back piece dart Y, a back piece dart Z and a leg circumference dart are left by splicing and merging the mold split pieces, the side seam dart is located at the side seam line where the front piece and the back piece are connected, the back piece dart X and the back piece dart Y are located at the two flat mold dart positions on the back piece A3, and the back piece dart Z and the leg circumference dart are located on the longitudinal dividing line of the "cross"-shaped through dart of the back piece; The transfer of darts is to transfer the darts of the flat mold darts and the back piece darts Y on the net system layout to the side seam darts, the back piece darts X, the back piece darts Z and the leg darts.

8. The method for making a prototype of underwear according to claim 7, characterized in that: The back piece dart X and the back piece dart Y are two darts opened to the waistline position after the back pieces A1a, A2a and A3 are spliced ​​and merged at the through dart position, the back pieces A1b, A2b and A3 are spliced ​​and merged at the through dart position, and the back pieces A1c, A2c and A3 are spliced ​​and merged at the through dart position.

9. The method for making a prototype of underwear according to claim 1, characterized in that: The reduction drawing in step E is to shorten the waist and hip circumference of the underwear pattern original drawing from the initial size to the target size.

10. The method for making a prototype of underwear according to claim 9, characterized in that: The target size of the underwear waist is calculated by the formula: The reduced waist length = (39-0.41a) / 2, and the X value is the maximum size of the fabric stretched to 10cm.

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