A skin care composition for protection against external stimuli and use thereof

Abstract

The application discloses a skin care composition resisting external stimulation and application thereof, and belongs to the technical field of cosmetics. The skin care composition is prepared by compounding tea flower extract, baobab fruit extract, star-mantle algae extract, distichoplax speciosa extract and smooth fruit elaeocarpus bark extract, and can effectively realize the skin's good ability of resisting ultraviolet rays, external pollution and chemical stimulation by synergistically utilizing the stress resistance of plants. The plant extracts selected by the skin care composition have a stress resistance cascade mechanism, and the natural ingredients synergize with each other, so that the stress resistance logic of plants in response to complex environments can be effectively simulated. When the skin care composition is applied to the preparation of cosmetics, the obtained cosmetics have excellent instant and long-acting soothing and repairing effects on the skin, and can effectively brighten and tighten the skin.

Description

TECHNICAL FIELD

[0001] The present application belongs to the technical field of cosmetics, and particularly relates to a skin care composition for resisting external stimulation and application thereof. BACKGROUND

[0002] In modern environment, skin is continuously exposed to multiple external stimulations: chemical stimulation (such as PM2.5, heavy metals, free radicals) induces oxidative stress and release of inflammatory factors (IL-6, TNF-α), leading to barrier lipid peroxidation and collagen degradation; physical stimulation (ultraviolet, mechanical friction) destroys the structure of stratum corneum, exacerbates trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL) and induces overexpression of matrix metalloproteinase (MMP-1), accelerating photoaging; biological stimulation (such as pathogenic bacteria, fungi) induces infectious inflammation by adhesion or biofilm formation, disrupting the skin microecological balance. The superimposed effects of these complex stimulations lead to barrier damage, inflammation exacerbation and accelerated aging.

[0003] Current skin care products have significant shortcomings in resisting external stimulation: first, single active ingredients (such as vitamin C, astaxanthin) only target specific pathways (such as antioxidant), which cannot achieve synergistic anti-stress network, resulting in limited protection dimensions, for example, ultraviolet protection often relies on chemical sunscreen agents, but may cause phototoxicity or irritation to sensitive skin; second, natural ingredients (such as anthocyanins, polyphenols) are easily degraded by environmental factors (light, heat, pH) and have low transdermal rate, and traditional formulations are difficult to maintain their stability and bioavailability; third, existing technologies ignore the role of skin microecology in anti-stress, and excessive bacteriostatic ingredients (such as phenoxyethanol) may disrupt the balance of bacterial flora, thereby exacerbating barrier vulnerability; in addition, chemical film-forming agents (such as silicones) can physically block PM2.5, but lack active repair function and may block pores. These defects make it difficult for existing products to achieve long-term, dynamic, and full-dimensional protection. SUMMARY

[0004] The present application aims to overcome the shortcomings of the prior art and provide a defense logic that simulates the response of plants to complex adversity, covering the full-dimensional protection of the human body against chemical, physical and microbial stimulation in the environment, which can effectively resist ultraviolet light, external pollution and chemical stimulation, and thus effectively achieve immediate soothing and repair of the skin, as well as long-term soothing and repair, brightening and tightening of the skin.

[0005] To achieve the above-mentioned purpose, in the first aspect of the present application, the present application provides a skin care composition for resisting external stimulation, which comprises the following components: camellia sinensis leaf extract, baobab fruit extract, agardhiella subulata extract, petrosiphon distichus extract, and rhamnus utilis bark extract.

[0006] The present application researches and finds that by selecting the above-mentioned 5 components for compounding, the skin can effectively resist ultraviolet rays, resist external pollution and chemical stimulation by utilizing the stress resistance of plants itself, and the plant extracts selected by the skin care composition provided by the present application have a stress resistance cascade mechanism, and the natural ingredients synergize with each other, can effectively simulate the stress resistance logic of plants in response to complex environment, and achieve excellent instant and long-acting soothing repair, brightening and firming effects on the skin.

[0007] Specifically, the skin care composition provided by the present application can simulate the multi-level stress resistance mechanism of plants in response to physical stimulation (such as ultraviolet rays, friction, etc.), chemical stimulation (such as PM2.5, free radicals, etc.) and microbial invasion by the synergistic effect of the components; first, through the signal transmission between mitochondria-endoplasmic reticulum-lysosome, more energy is generated by mitochondria, the endoplasmic reticulum secretes "protective membrane" protein (Claudin-1 protein) is activated, and lysosome cleanses damaged substances, achieving comprehensive protection of the skin barrier against external stimulation and pollution; further, the composition can activate the vitamin C transport protein SVCT1 in the skin, can directly neutralize ROS (such as superoxide anion, hydroxyl radical) when encountering external stimulation and pollution, reduce oxidative damage, and has a certain effect of brightening skin color and inhibiting photoaging.

[0008] More specifically, camellia as a high stress-tolerance plant, long-term adaptation to strong UV, low temperature and drought environment, its extract is rich in anthocyanins (such as cyanidin, delphinidin) and flavonols (such as quercetin, kaempferol); Camellia extract can resist external stimulation through antioxidant and anti-inflammatory, absorb ultraviolet rays (280-400nm), reduce physical light damage; At the same time, camellia extract can activate the stress response factor in the cell under the condition of skin stimulation, promote mitochondria to increase ATP production. Baobab fruit extract is derived from the fruit of the African tree baobab (Adansonia digitata), rich in vitamin C, polyphenols and minerals; Its outstanding characteristics are high antioxidant and anti-inflammatory, which can neutralize reactive oxygen species (ROS) such as superoxide anion, reduce environmental pollution-induced oxidative damage; And its polysaccharide component can significantly improve the DPPH clearance rate, inhibit the release of inflammatory factors, and repair cell damage caused by ultraviolet rays; In the skin care composition of the present application, it can activate the SVCT1 transporter protein together with camellia extract, promote the utilization of endogenous vitamin C, directly neutralize free radicals and inhibit photoaging. Star gigartina extract is taken from star gigartina (Gigartina stellata) of red algae, the main active ingredients are sulfated polysaccharides (such as kappa-carrageenan) and algal minerals; Its role focuses on barrier repair and moisturizing, by enhancing the cohesion between keratinocytes, improving the skin's water retention capacity; At the same time, it can activate the expression of epidermal defense genes, promote the synthesis of ceramides, and strengthen the chemical barrier against microbial invasion; In the skin care composition of the present application, it can promote endoplasmic reticulum secretion of protective membrane proteins, optimize the physical barrier structure, and assist lysosome in cleaning metabolic waste. Lithothamnion calcareum is a kind of intertidal red algae, which is exposed to high salt, strong ultraviolet and tidal impact for a long time, and it resists oxidative stress and microbial attachment by synthesizing polyphenolic compounds (such as phlorotannins, sulfated polysaccharides); Polyphenols resist oxidative damage induced by chemical pollutants by scavenging free radicals and inhibiting lipid peroxidation; Its polyphenol-lipid complex mimics the structure of plant cuticle wax, forming a physical anti-adhesion barrier that can block particulate matter and seawater erosion, and when applied to the skin, it can reduce PM2.5 adsorption and enhance the mechanical strength of the barrier. Smooth fruit ebony bark extract is derived from Anogeissus leiocarpus, the core active ingredients are polyphenols and specific peptides (such as acetyl hexapeptide-8); It mainly protects collagen fibers by inhibiting matrix metalloproteinase (MMP-1) activity, while stimulating fibroblast proliferation and increasing collagen synthesis; Therefore, it can significantly reduce wrinkle depth and neutralize free radicals to slow down light damage. In the skin care composition of the present application, it can activate the SVCT1 transporter protein together with camellia extract, baobab fruit extract and other components, directly mediate the antioxidant and whitening pathways of vitamin C, and participate in lysosome cleaning of oxidative damage products.

[0009] As a preferred embodiment of the skin care composition of the present application, the skin care composition comprises the following components by mass fraction: 0.1-5 parts of camellia extract, 0.02-2 parts of baobab fruit extract, 0.1-3 parts of galaxaura compacta extract, 0.1-3 parts of sarcocornia runcinata extract, and 0.1-3 parts of sygygium paniculatum bark extract.

[0010] As a preferred embodiment of the skin care composition of the present application, the skin care composition comprises the following components by mass fraction: 0.5-3 parts of camellia extract, 0.1-1 parts of baobab fruit extract, 0.5-2 parts of galaxaura compacta extract, 0.8-1.5 parts of sarcocornia runcinata extract, and 0.5-1 parts of sygygium paniculatum bark extract.

[0011] The present application researches and finds that the mass fraction of the components in the skin care composition can affect the interaction between the components, thereby affecting the ability of the skin care composition to resist external pollution, chemical stimulation, and ultraviolet light. When the mass fraction of the components is further selected within the above range, the comprehensive effect of the obtained skin care composition is more excellent.

[0012] As a preferred embodiment of the skin care composition of the present application, the camellia extract comprises at least one of camellia sinensis extract, camellia japonica extract, camellia nitidissima extract, and camellia reticulata extract.

[0013] Preferably, the camellia extract comprises camellia sinensis extract.

[0014] The present application researches and finds that the types and contents of active ingredients in different varieties of camellia extract are different, and the compounding effect is different when they are further compounded with other components. When the camellia extract is further selected from the above categories, especially camellia sinensis extract, the comprehensive effect of the obtained skin care composition is more excellent.

[0015] As a preferred embodiment of the skin care composition of the present application, the preparation method of the camellia extract comprises the following steps:

[0016] (1) The dried camellia is crushed and added to a complex enzyme preparation aqueous solution for enzymolysis. After the enzymolysis is completed, an enzymolysis solution is obtained;

[0017] (2) The enzymolysis solution is subjected to subcritical extraction, and the extraction solution is collected and concentrated to obtain a camellia extract;

[0018] In the step (1), the complex enzyme preparation comprises glucosidase, arabinosidase, and galactosidase.

[0019] In the step (2), the solvent for subcritical extraction is subcritical water.

[0020] The present application researches and finds that different preparation methods for preparing tea flower extract will affect the content and type of active ingredients to some extent, and when a specific composite enzyme preparation is used for enzymolysis after the dried tea flower is crushed, and then subcritical water is used as a solvent for subcritical extraction, the active ingredients in the tea flower extract can be better extracted. For example, the mass content of flavones and flavonols in the obtained tea flower extract is greater than or equal to 15%, and the mass content of polysaccharides is greater than or equal to 50%.

[0021] As a preferred embodiment of the skin care composition of the present application, in step (1), the mass ratio of glucosidase, arabinosidase and galactosidase is 3:(0.8-1.2):(0.8-1.2).

[0022] It should be noted that the glucosidase is beta-glucosidase (EC 3.2.1.21), the arabinosidase is alpha-L-arabinofuranosidase (EC 3.2.1.55), and the galactosidase is beta-galactosidase (EC 3.2.1.23).

[0023] Preferably, in step (1), the mass ratio of beta-glucosidase, alpha-L-arabinofuranosidase and beta-galactosidase is 3:1:1.

[0024] The present application researches and finds that the mass ratio of different enzymes in the composite enzyme preparation will also affect the enzymolysis effect, thereby affecting the content of active ingredients in the tea flower extract, and when the mass ratio of enzymes in the composite enzyme preparation is further selected within the above range, the tea flower extract obtained is applied to the subsequent skin care composition, and the comprehensive effect of the obtained skin care composition is better.

[0025] As a preferred embodiment of the skin care composition of the present application, in step (2), the segmented temperature control includes two-stage temperature control extraction, the temperature of the first-stage temperature control extraction is 100-130℃, the time of the first-stage temperature control extraction is 5-15min, the temperature of the second-stage temperature control extraction is 132-180℃, and the time of the second-stage temperature control extraction is 15-30min.

[0026] For example, the temperature of the first-stage temperature control extraction can be any point value or any two-point range value between 100-130℃, such as 100℃, 105℃, 110℃, 115℃, 120℃, 125℃, 130℃, etc., and the time of the first-stage temperature control extraction can be any point value or any two-point range value between 5-15min, such as 5min, 8min, 10min, 12min, 15min, etc.

[0027] Exemplarily, the temperature of the second temperature-controllable extraction can be any point value or any two-point range value between 132-180℃, such as 132℃, 140℃, 150℃, 160℃, 170℃, 180℃, etc., and the time of the second temperature-controllable extraction can be any point value or any two-point range value between 15-30min, such as 15min, 18min, 20min, 22min, 25min, 28min, 30min, etc.

[0028] Preferably, in the step (2), the temperature-controllable extraction includes two-stage temperature-controllable extraction, the temperature of the first-stage temperature-controllable extraction is 100-120℃, and the temperature of the second-stage temperature-controllable extraction is 140-160℃.

[0029] The present application researches and finds that, in the subcritical extraction, the way of the two-stage temperature-controllable extraction, the control of the temperature and time of the two-stage temperature-controllable extraction can dissolve as many active ingredients as possible. Exemplarily, in the first-stage temperature-controllable extraction, more water-soluble flavonoids such as anthocyanins in tea flowers are dissolved, and in the second-stage temperature-controllable extraction, more polysaccharides and polyphenols in tea flowers are dissolved. In combination with the time of the two-stage temperature-controllable extraction, when the tea flower extract obtained is applied to the skin care composition, the skin care composition obtained has stronger resistance to external chemical stimulation, pollution, and ultraviolet rays.

[0030] Preferably, in the step (2), in the subcritical extraction, the flow rate of the subcritical water is 6-20L / h.

[0031] Exemplarily, the flow rate of the subcritical water can be any point value or any two-point range value between 6-20L / h, such as 6L / h, 8L / h, 10L / h, 12L / h, 14L / h, 16L / h, 18L / h, 20L / h, etc.

[0032] Preferably, in the step (2), the flow rate of the subcritical water is 10-12L / h.

[0033] It should be noted that, in the subcritical extraction, such as the two-stage temperature-controllable extraction, the subcritical water is introduced into the enzymatic hydrolysate at a flow rate of 6-20L / h, and then the temperature is raised to the extraction temperature for extraction. If it is two-stage extraction, the temperature is first raised to the temperature of the first-stage temperature-controllable extraction for extraction. After the extraction is completed, solid-liquid separation is performed to obtain the first extraction liquid and the first solid. Then, the subcritical water is introduced into the first solid at a flow rate of 6-20L / h, and then the temperature is raised to the temperature of the second-stage temperature-controllable extraction for extraction. After the extraction is completed, solid-liquid separation is performed to obtain the second extraction liquid. The first extraction liquid and the second extraction liquid are combined to obtain the extraction liquid.

[0034] Preferably, the drying is drying in an environment ≤50℃ or freeze-drying.

[0035] Preferably, the moisture mass content of the dried tea flower is ≤8%.

[0036] Preferably, the pulverization is to 80 mesh.

[0037] Preferably, the preparation method of the complex enzyme preparation aqueous solution is: dissolving the complex enzyme preparation in water, and activating at 35-40℃ for 50-70min. The mass ratio of the complex enzyme preparation to water is 1:(5-15).

[0038] Preferably, the enzymolysis temperature is 45-55℃, the enzymolysis time is 2-3h, and the rotation speed during enzymolysis is 100-200rpm.

[0039] Preferably, after the enzymolysis, the method further comprises the step of enzyme inactivation, specifically, raising the temperature to 85-95℃ and maintaining for 15-30min.

[0040] Preferably, in the subcritical extraction, the pressure is 1MPa.

[0041] Preferably, the concentration is rotary evaporation concentration at 35-45℃.

[0042] Preferably, after the concentration, the method further comprises the step of adding sodium metabisulfite to the concentrated solution. The sodium metabisulfite accounts for 0.03-0.05% of the volume of the concentrated solution.

[0043] By adding sodium metabisulfite, the tea flower extract can be stabilized, and discoloration can be avoided.

[0044] As a preferred embodiment of the skin care composition of the present application, the mass ratio of the star moon algae extract to the stone branch algae extract is (0.6-1.3):1.

[0045] Illustratively, the mass ratio of the star moon algae extract to the stone branch algae extract can be any point value or any two-point range value between (0.6-1.3):1, such as 0.6:1, 0.7:1, 0.8:1, 0.9:1, 1:1, 1.1:1, 1.2:1, 1.3:1, etc.

[0046] The present application researches and finds that when the mass percentage of the star moon algae extract in the skin care composition is further selected to be within the above range, the skin care composition can better achieve excellent comprehensive effects.

[0047] In the second aspect of the present application, the present application provides the use of the skin care composition in the preparation of cosmetics.

[0048] As a preferred embodiment of the use of the present application, the cosmetics include any one of the following: cosmetic water, emulsion, cream, mask, emulsion, essence oil, and spray.

[0049] In a third aspect of the present application, the present application provides an emulsion, the emulsion comprising the following mass percentages of components: 1-5% of the skin care composition of the present application, 0.1-1% of a thickening agent, 0.5-5% of a humectant, 0.01-0.3% of a pH adjuster, 0.5-3% of a preservative, and the balance deionized water.

[0050] Preferably, the humectant comprises at least one of glycerin, D-panthenol, vitamin B5, 1,3-butanediol, 1,2-hexanediol, 1,3-propanediol, sodium hyaluronate, tremella fuciformis sporophore polysaccharide, trehalose, betaine, allantoin, and low-molecular-weight hyaluronic acid.

[0051] Preferably, the thickening agent comprises at least one of carbomer and xanthan gum.

[0052] Preferably, the emulsifier comprises at least one of caprylic / capric triglyceride, C14-22 alcohol, C12-20 alkyl glucoside, cetylstearyl glucoside, isononyl isononanoate, pentaerythrityl tetraester, dimethicone, stearyl alcohol, hydroxystearic acid, polymethylsilsesquioxane, pentaerythrityl distearate, and sucrose stearate.

[0053] Preferably, the pH adjuster comprises at least one of arginine, disodium ethylenediaminetetraacetate, tromethamine, and disodium EDTA.

[0054] As a preferred embodiment of the emulsion of the present application, the preservative comprises at least one of p-hydroxyacetophenone and polyhydric alcohol.

[0055] Compared with the prior art, the present application has the following beneficial effects:

[0056] The present application can effectively utilize the stress resistance of plants to realize the skin's good ability to resist ultraviolet rays, external pollution, and chemical stimulation by compounding five components of tea flower extract, baobab fruit extract, star-mantle algae extract, punctate stone algae extract, and smooth fruit elaeagnus bark extract. The plant extracts selected by the skin care composition of the present application have an anti-stress cascade mechanism, and the natural ingredients synergize with each other to effectively simulate the anti-stress logic of plants in response to complex environments. When applied to the preparation of cosmetics, the obtained cosmetics have excellent immediate and long-acting soothing and repairing effects on the skin, and can effectively brighten and tighten the skin. BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF DRAWINGS

[0057] Figure 1 It is a photograph of tea flower extract 1;

[0058] Figure 2 It is a photograph of tea flower extract 1 after being placed at room temperature for 1 month;

[0059] Figure 3The red zone results of the volunteers before and after long-term use of the application example 1 for the effect example 2 test. DETAILED DESCRIPTION

[0060] For the purpose, technical scheme and advantages of the present application, the present application will be further described below in combination with specific examples.

[0061] The reagents, methods and equipment used in the present application are all conventional reagents, methods and equipment in the art unless otherwise specified; and the raw materials used in parallel experiments are the same batch of raw materials unless otherwise specified.

[0062] Camellia extract 1: self-made, the preparation method comprising the following steps:

[0063] (1) fresh camellia flowers are selected, dried at 40℃ until the moisture content is 6%, then crushed and passed through an 80-mesh screen, and the undersize material is collected to obtain camellia flower powder;

[0064] (2) a mixture of complex enzyme preparations (β-glucosidase (Solebao, G8831), α-L-arabinofuranosidase (Guangdong Wengjiang Chemical Reagent Co., Ltd., PA93434) and β-galactosidase (Solebao, G8861) in a mass ratio of 3:1:1) is dissolved in water (the mass of water is 10 times that of the camellia flower powder), activated at 35℃ for 1h, then the camellia flower powder is added, and enzymolysis is carried out at 50℃ at a speed of 150rpm for 2.5h, then the temperature is raised to 90℃ and maintained for 20min to obtain an enzymolysis liquid;

[0065] (3) the enzymolysis liquid is placed in an extraction kettle, the pressure is maintained at 1MPa, subcritical water is introduced at a flow rate of 12L / h according to a mass ratio of the enzymolysis liquid to subcritical water of 1:30, after the introduction is completed, the temperature is first raised to the temperature of the first temperature-controlled extraction, specifically 110℃ and maintained for 15min, then solid-liquid separation is carried out, the first extraction liquid and the first solid are collected; then the pressure is maintained at 1MPa, subcritical water is introduced at a flow rate of 12L / h according to a mass ratio of the first solid to subcritical water of 1:30, after the introduction is completed, the temperature is raised to the temperature of the second temperature-controlled extraction, specifically 150℃ and maintained for 30min, then solid-liquid separation is carried out to obtain the second extraction liquid; the first extraction liquid and the second extraction liquid are combined to obtain an extraction liquid, the extraction liquid is concentrated at 40℃ to obtain a concentrated extraction liquid, then 0.04% volume percentage of sodium metabisulfite is added to obtain the camellia extract 1;

[0066] The photograph of the camellia extract 1 obtained by preparation is as shown in Figure 1 The photograph after being placed for 1 month is as shown in Figure 2

[0067] ​Camellia extract 2: self-made, the difference between the preparation method and Camellia extract 1 is that Camellia nitidissima flower extract is used instead of Camellia sinensis flower extract.

[0068] Camellia extract 3: self-made, the difference between the preparation method and Camellia extract 1 is that the segmented temperature control extraction includes two temperature segments, the temperature of the first temperature control extraction is 130℃, and the temperature of the second temperature control extraction is 135℃.

[0069] Camellia extract 4: self-made, the difference between the preparation method and Camellia extract 1 is that the segmented temperature control includes two temperature segments, the temperature of the first temperature control extraction is 100℃, and the temperature of the second temperature control extraction is 180℃.

[0070] Camellia extract 5: self-made, the difference between the preparation method and Camellia extract 1 is that there is no segmented temperature control, that is, the temperature is raised to 110℃ and kept for 45 minutes, then solid-liquid separation is performed, and the extraction liquid is collected.

[0071] Camellia extract 6: self-made, the difference between the preparation method and Camellia extract 1 is that the solvent for the subcritical extraction is subcritical 80% ethanol aqueous solution.

[0072] Camellia extract 7: self-made, the difference between the preparation method and Camellia extract 1 is that the composite enzyme preparation is a mixture of β-glucosidase (Solvay, G8831) and α-L-arabinofuranosidase (Guangdong Wengjiang Chemical Reagent Co., Ltd., PA93434) in a mass ratio of 3:2.

[0073] Adansonia digitata fruit extract: purchased from Shannxi Senyuan Biological Technology Co., Ltd.;

[0074] Gelidiella acerosa extract: purchased from Gattefosse, with the trade name Gravityl TM ;

[0075] Lithothamnion lithothecium extract: purchased from Provital, with the trade name Hydrafence TM ;

[0076] Terminalia ferdinandiana bark extract: purchased from Gattefosse, with the trade name Ellagi-C TM .

[0077] Examples 1-6 and Comparative Examples 1-5

[0078] The examples and comparative examples of the present application provide a skin care composition, the components (mass parts) of which are shown in Table 1; wherein W represents the mass ratio of Gelidiella acerosa extract and Lithothamnion lithothecium extract;

[0079] Table 1

[0080]

[0081] The method of preparing the skin care composition of Example 1 is to mix the ingredients together until uniform to obtain the skin care composition.

[0082] The method of preparing the skin care compositions of Examples 2-6 and Comparative Examples 1-5 is the same as Example 1; if the ingredient is not relevant, it is not added.

[0083] Example 7

[0084] The skin care composition of this Example is the same as Example 1 except that Camellia sinensis extract 2 is used instead of Camellia sinensis extract 1.

[0085] Example 8

[0086] The skin care composition of this Example is the same as Example 1 except that Camellia sinensis extract 3 is used instead of Camellia sinensis extract 1.

[0087] Example 9

[0088] The skin care composition of this Example is the same as Example 1 except that Camellia sinensis extract 4 is used instead of Camellia sinensis extract 1.

[0089] Example 10

[0090] The skin care composition of this Example is the same as Example 1 except that Camellia sinensis extract 5 is used instead of Camellia sinensis extract 1.

[0091] Example 11

[0092] The skin care composition of this Example is the same as Example 1 except that Camellia sinensis extract 6 is used instead of Camellia sinensis extract 1.

[0093] Example 12

[0094] The skin care composition of this Example is the same as Example 1 except that Camellia sinensis extract 7 is used instead of Camellia sinensis extract 1.

[0095] Comparative Example 6

[0096] The skin care composition of this Comparative Example is the same as Example 1 except that Amorphyllus konjaci extract (purchased from Qingranxin'gu (Hangzhou) Technology Co., Ltd., product name Supermolecular Amorphyllus konjaci) is used instead of Camellia sinensis extract 1.

[0097] Comparative Example 7

[0098] The present comparative example provides a skin care composition, the only difference between the skin care composition and Example 1 is that the Adansonia digitata fruit extract is replaced with Myrothamnus flabellifolia extract (purchased from Rahn Company, trade name ESSENCE).

[0099] Comparative Example 8

[0100] The present comparative example provides a skin care composition, the only difference between the skin care composition and Example 1 is that the Adansonia digitata fruit extract is replaced with Porphyridium purpureum extract (purchased from BSF Company, trade name ).

[0101] Comparative Example 9

[0102] The present comparative example provides a skin care composition, the only difference between the skin care composition and Example 1 is that the Adansonia digitata fruit extract is replaced with Porphyridium purpureum extract (purchased from BSF Company, trade name

[0103] Comparative Example 10

[0104] The present comparative example provides a skin care composition, the only difference between the skin care composition and Example 1 is that the Adansonia digitata fruit extract is replaced with Porphyridium purpureum extract (purchased from BSF Company, trade name TM ).

[0105] Application example, comparative application example and blank application example

[0106] The present application example, comparative application example and blank application example provide an emulsion, the mass percentage of the components of the emulsion is shown in Table 2;

[0107] The skin care composition in application examples 1-12 is respectively the skin care composition prepared in examples 1-12, for example, the skin care composition used in application example 1 is the skin care composition prepared in example 1, and so on; the skin care composition in comparative application examples 1-10 is respectively the skin care composition prepared in comparative examples 1-10, for example, the skin care composition used in comparative application example 1 is the skin care composition prepared in comparative example 1, and so on; the skin care composition in application examples 12-13 is the skin care composition prepared in example 1;

[0108] Table 2

[0109]

[0110] The preparation method of the emulsion provided by application example 1 includes the following steps:

[0111] ​(1) Mix the humectant and thickening agent with water, stir, heat to 85°C, then homogenize at a speed of 13000 rpm for 4 min to obtain a pre-prepared A component;

[0112] (2) Mix the preservative, heat to 60°C to melt to obtain a pre-prepared B component;

[0113] (3) After cooling the pre-prepared A component to 60°C, add the pre-prepared B component and stir at a speed of 3000 rpm, then cool to below 45°C, add the skin care composition and continue stirring for 8 min, finally add the pH adjuster to adjust the pH to 5.8, stop stirring, discharge, and obtain an emulsion.

[0114] Effect Example 1

[0115] The effect example of the present application explores the performance of the skin care composition, including the following parts:

[0116] 1. Ability to resist ultraviolet damage

[0117] Ultraviolet light is a common physical stimulus source for the skin. Ultraviolet light can cause cell death in the skin, produce oxidative stress effects, and thus cause skin discomfort, and even cause photoaging. Vitamin C is an important substance inside the skin to resist light damage. Therefore, the degree of reduction of keratinocyte death caused by ultraviolet light and the degree of increase in the content of vitamin C transporter SVCT1 can indicate the size of the ability of the skin care composition to resist external physical stimuli.

[0118] Specific test method: Human keratinocytes HaCaT (Shanghai Yaji Biological Technology Co., Ltd.) were recovered and cultured in DMEM medium (2105341, Gibco) containing 10% fetal bovine serum (FBS) as culture medium. Irradiated with UVB (20 mJ / cm 2 , 320 nm) for 4 minutes; after light source irradiation, fresh culture medium was replaced, the skin care composition was dissolved with 10 times the mass of DMSO, and the skin care composition working solution with a mass percentage of 1% of the skin care composition was prepared by dilution with DMEM culture medium. Add 100 μL of different skin care composition working solution to treat HaCaT cells for 24 h, and do not add skin care composition working solution after UVB irradiation as the UVB model group.

[0119] Cell activity detection method: add 20 μL (5 mg / mL) MTT solution to each well, continue to incubate for 4 h. Use Multiskan enzyme marker (Thermo, USA) to measure OD value at 570 nm to calculate cell activity.

[0120] Cell activity improvement rate (%) = (model group cell activity - sample group cell activity) / model group cell activity x 100%;

[0121] Detection of SVCT1 gene expression of Vitamin C transport protein: The gene expression of SVCT1 of HaCaT cells in each group was detected by real-time fluorescent quantitative PCR, GAPDH was used as an internal reference gene, and the SVCT1 primer sequence used was:

[0122] 5'-GCTTCGTGTTCCTGCTCATC-3',

[0123] 5'-CATCGTCCACACACACACCT-3',

[0124] The GAPDH primer sequence used was:

[0125] 5'-ACTTTGTCAAGCTCATTTCC-3'

[0126] 5'-TGCAGCGAACTTTATTGATG-3';

[0127] Then calculate the gene inhibition rate, gene promotion rate (%) = | (target gene expression model group - target gene expression sample group) | / target gene expression model group * 100%;

[0128] Wherein, the higher the cell activity improvement rate and the SVCT1 gene promotion rate, the stronger the skin care composition's ability to resist damage caused by ultraviolet rays, and the results are shown in Table 3.

[0129] 2. Ability to resist external pollution

[0130] Pollutants in the air are also one of the culprits that cause people's skin to be sensitive, these pollutants can induce keratinocyte death, leading to the skin condition becoming worse. Therefore, by measuring the effect of the skin care composition on the viability of keratinocytes containing pollutants, it can be proved that the skin care composition has an anti-pollution effect.

[0131] Specific test method: Th-150c III airflow atmospheric sampler with quartz filter membrane was used to collect haze particulate matter (PM2.5) for 24 hours. The sample was immediately stored at -20°C after collection. The atmospheric sampler quartz filter membrane containing PM2.5 pollutants was cut into pieces and extracted by microwave ultrasonic method using n-hexane / dichloromethane (1 / 1, v / v) for 24h. The organic extract was concentrated to about 1mL using a rotary evaporator, and the pollutants were diluted with dimethyl sulfoxide (DMSO) to obtain a stimulant solution, the concentration of PM2.5 in the stimulant solution was 100μg / mL, and it was stored at -20°C.

[0132] Human keratinocyte HaCaT (Shanghai Yage Biological Technology Co., Ltd.) was resuscitated and cultured in DMEM medium (2105341, Gibco) containing 10% fetal bovine serum (FBS) as culture solution. The skin care composition was dissolved with DMSO and diluted with DMEM culture solution to prepare a skin care composition working solution with a mass percentage of 1% of the skin care composition. The sample group cells were treated with PM2.5 (100 μg / mL) stimulant solution and the skin care composition working solution of each example and comparative example for 24 h, and the model group was only treated with PM2.5 (100 μg / mL) stimulant solution for 24 h. The cell activity of the sample group and the model group HaCaT cells was detected by the MTT kit method.

[0133] Cell activity improvement rate (%) = (sample group cell activity - model cell activity) / model group cell activity x 100%;

[0134] The higher the cell activity improvement rate, the stronger the skin care composition's defense ability against external pollution. The results are shown in Table 3.

[0135] 3. Ability to resist chemical stimulation

[0136] Chemical substances are common sources of skin irritation, which can promote the production of reactive oxygen species (ROS), cause skin sensitivity and trigger uncomfortable feelings, and damage the skin barrier. Therefore, the skin care composition can reduce the release of keratinocyte ROS caused by chemical stimulation, which can indicate that the skin care composition has the ability to resist external chemical stimulation.

[0137] Specific test method: Human keratinocyte HaCaT (Shanghai Yage Biological Technology Co., Ltd.) was resuscitated and cultured in DMEM medium (2105341, Gibco) containing 10% fetal bovine serum (FBS) as culture solution. The skin care composition was dissolved with 10 times mass DMSO and diluted with DMEM culture solution to prepare a skin care composition working solution with a mass percentage of 1% of the skin care composition. The cells were induced with lipopolysaccharide (LPS, 20 ng / mL) to form a model, and the model group was cells induced with LPS without the addition of skin care composition working solution, and the sample group was cells induced with LPS and treated with 100 μL of skin care composition working solution for 24 h. The reactive oxygen species (ROS) test kit (chemical fluorescence method) was used for ROS determination, and the fluorescence microplate reader was used to indirectly quantify the ROS level of each group of cells by measuring the fluorescence intensity (A value) of the DCFH-DA probe.

[0138] ROS improvement rate (%) = (model group ROS level - sample group ROS level) / model group ROS level x 100%;

[0139] The higher the ROS improvement rate, the stronger the resistance of the composition to external chemical stimulation, and the results are shown in Table 3.

[0140] Table 3

[0141]

[0142]

[0143] As can be seen from Table 3, when the technical solution provided by the present application is adopted, the skin care composition obtained has good effect of resisting external stimulation; specifically, the UVB-induced cell activity improvement rate is above 42.3%, the SVCT1 gene promotion rate is above 36.1%, the PM2.5-induced cell activity improvement rate is above 35.4%, and the ROS improvement rate is above 47.2%.

[0144] As can be seen from Examples 1-6, the mass parts of the components and the mass ratio between the components also affect the ability of the skin care composition to resist external stimulation, and when the mass parts of the components and the mass ratio between the components are further selected within the preferred range of the present application, the comprehensive performance of the skin care composition obtained is more excellent; specifically, the UVB-induced cell activity improvement rate is above 52.0%, the SVCT1 gene promotion rate is above 41.2%, the PM2.5-induced cell activity improvement rate is above 40.9%, and the ROS improvement rate is above 61.9%.

[0145] As can be seen from Example 1 and Examples 7-12, the type of camellia flower used in the camellia flower extract and the preparation method of the camellia flower extract also affect the comprehensive effect of the skin care composition.

[0146] As can be seen from Example 1 and Comparative Examples 1-5, when a certain component is not added or the mass parts of other components are supplemented when a certain component is not added, the effect of the skin care composition of the present application cannot be achieved; as can be seen from Example 1 and Comparative Examples 6-10, when other components are used to replace the components of the present application, the effect of the skin care composition of the present application cannot be achieved.

[0147] Effect Example 2

[0148] The effect example of the present application explores the performance of the emulsion. First, the improvement effect of skin TEWL and moisture of the face of a human body after multiple washing with a soap-based cleanser is tested for the application example, the comparative application example and the blank application example. Second, the barrier repair, redness relief, brightening and tightening effects of the emulsion prepared by the application example, the comparative application example and the blank application example on the subjects after 14 days are evaluated.

[0149] The specific test method is as follows:

[0150] 125 healthy subjects (cheek moisture < 60 C.U., TEWL≥20 g / hm 2 ) were recruited and randomly divided into 25 groups, 5 people in each group. On the day of the visit, the volunteers did not apply any product after washing the test area with water, and sat in an air-conditioned room with a temperature of 21±1℃ and a humidity of 50±10% for 20 min. The TEWL and The CM 825 probe was used to test the moisture content; the Colorimeter CL440 skin color test probe was used to test the erythema index (a* value) and skin brightness (L* value) on the cheek; and the MPA580 skin viscoelasticity test probe was used to test the skin firmness (F4 value) on the cheek.

[0151] Instantaneous test: all subjects used a soap-based cleanser (Shiseido facial cleansing specialist) to wash their faces 6 times, about 1 minute each time, and waited for 10 minutes. The TEWL and moisture content on the cheek of the side face were tested as model group data. Then 1 g of the corresponding emulsion was applied to the whole face, and the TEWL and moisture content on the cheek were tested after waiting for 10 minutes.

[0152] Short-acting improvement rate before and after use = |model group mean - post-use mean| / |pre-use mean - model group mean| x 100%;

[0153] Long-acting test: the subjects used the emulsion twice a day for 14 days, and then returned for a visit and tested the TEWL, moisture content, erythema index (a* value), skin brightness (L* value), and skin firmness (F4 value) on the cheek.

[0154] Improvement rate before and after use of each value = |pre-use mean - post-use mean| / pre-use mean x 100%;

[0155] The short-acting calculation results are shown in Table 4, and the long-acting calculation results are shown in Table 5. The improvement rates presented in Table 5 are the improvement rates at the 14th day visit.

[0156] Table 4

[0157]

[0158]

[0159] As can be seen from Table 4, when the technical solutions provided by the present application are used, the emulsion obtained has good skin barrier improvement and moisturizing effects; specifically, the TEWL improvement rate is more than 35.3%, and the moisture improvement rate is more than 25.4%;

[0160] As can be seen from application examples 1-6, the mass parts of the components in the skin care composition and the mass ratio between the components also affect the ability of the emulsion obtained when the skin care composition is subsequently applied in the emulsion to instantly moisturize and repair the skin barrier, and when the mass parts of the components in the skin care composition and the mass ratio between the components are further selected within the preferred range of the present application, the comprehensive performance of the obtained emulsion is better; specifically, the TEWL improvement rate is above 48.2%, and the moisture improvement rate is above 31.2%;

[0161] As can be seen from application example 1 and application examples 7-12, the type of camellia used in the camellia extract in the skin care composition and the preparation method of the camellia extract also affect the comprehensive effect of the emulsion;

[0162] As can be seen from application example 1 and comparative application examples 1-5, when a certain component is not added in the skin care composition or a certain component is not added but the mass parts of other components are supplemented, the effect of the emulsion of the present application cannot be achieved; as can be seen from application example 1 and comparative application examples 6-10, when the components in the skin care composition are replaced with other components, the effect of the emulsion of the present application cannot be achieved.

[0163] Table 5

[0164]

[0165]

[0166] As can be seen from Table 5, when the technical solution provided by the present application is adopted, the obtained emulsion has good long-acting effects of improving the skin barrier, soothing irritation, brightening the skin, and tightening the skin; specifically, the TEWL improvement rate is above 15.3%, the erythema improvement rate is above 18.5%, the brightness improvement rate is above 10.1%, and the tightness improvement rate is above 9.2%; wherein, the improvement of facial erythema of the volunteers using the emulsion of application example 1 is as shown in FIG. 1, and it can be obviously seen from FIG. 1 that the erythema phenomenon of the volunteers after using the emulsion of application example 1 is significantly improved; Figure 3 Figure 3

[0167] As can be seen from application examples 1-6, the mass parts of the components in the skin care composition and the mass ratio between the components also affect the ability of the emulsion obtained when the skin care composition is subsequently applied in the emulsion to long-acting repair the skin barrier, soothe irritation, brighten the skin color, and tighten the skin, and when the mass parts of the components in the skin care composition and the mass ratio between the components are further selected within the preferred range of the present application, the comprehensive performance of the obtained emulsion is better; specifically, the TEWL improvement rate is above 17.5%, the erythema improvement rate is above 23.0%, the brightness improvement rate is above 11.0%, and the tightness improvement rate is above 10.3%;

[0168] ​​As can be seen from application example 1 and application examples 7-12, the type of camellia used in the camellia extract in the skin care composition and the preparation method of the camellia extract also affect the overall effect of the emulsion;

[0169] As can be seen from application example 1 and comparative application examples 1-5, when a certain component is not added in the skin care composition or the mass of other components is supplemented when a certain component is not added, the effect of the emulsion of the present application cannot be achieved; as can be seen from application example 1 and comparative application examples 6-10, when the components in the skin care composition are replaced by other components, the effect of the emulsion of the present application cannot be achieved.

[0170] Finally, it should be noted that the above examples are intended to illustrate the technical solutions of the present application rather than limit the protection scope of the present application. Although the present application has been described in detail with reference to the preferred embodiments, those skilled in the art should understand that the technical solutions of the present application can be modified or replaced equivalently without departing from the essence and scope of the technical solutions of the present application.

Claims

1. A skincare composition for resisting external stimuli, characterized in that, The skincare composition comprises the following components in parts by weight: 0.5-3 parts camellia extract, 0.1-1 parts baobab fruit extract, 0.5-2 parts star-shaped cypress extract, 0.8-1.5 parts stonewort extract, and 0.5-1 part smooth elm bark extract. The mass ratio of *Stellaria media* extract to *Lithocarpus septemlobus* extract was (0.6-1.3):1; The camellia extract includes at least one of the following: Camellia japonica extract, Camellia chrysantha extract, Camellia rubra extract, and Camellia yunnanensis extract; The preparation method of the camellia extract includes the following steps: (1) After drying, the tea flowers are crushed and added to the aqueous solution of the compound enzyme preparation for enzymatic hydrolysis. After the enzymatic hydrolysis is completed, the enzymatic hydrolysate is obtained. (2) The enzymatic hydrolysate was subjected to subcritical extraction, the extract was collected and concentrated to obtain camellia extract; In step (1), the compound enzyme preparation includes β-glucosidase, α-L-arabinofuranase and β-galactosidase; In step (2), the solvent for subcritical extraction is subcritical water; In step (2), the subcritical extraction is a segmented temperature-controlled extraction, which includes two segments of temperature-controlled extraction. The temperature of the first segment of temperature-controlled extraction is 105-120℃ and the extraction time is 5-15 min. The temperature of the second segment of temperature-controlled extraction is 140-160℃ and the extraction time is 15-30 min. The baobab fruit extract was purchased from Shaanxi Senyuan Biotechnology Co., Ltd. The *Cephalotaxus fortunei* extract was purchased from Givaudan under the brand name Gravityl. TM ; The extract of *Hydrafence* was purchased from Provital, under the trade name Hydrafence. TM ; The smooth elm bark extract was purchased from Givaudan under the trade name Ellagi-C. TM .

2. The skincare composition according to claim 1, characterized in that, In step (1), the mass ratio of β-glucosidase, α-L-arabinofuranase and β-galactosidase is 3:(0.8-1.2):(0.8-1.2).

3. The use of the skincare composition according to any one of claims 1-2 in the preparation of cosmetics.

4. An emulsion, characterized in that, The emulsion comprises the following components by weight percentage: 1-5% of the skin care composition as described in any one of claims 1-2, 3-7% of emulsifier, 0.1-1% of thickener, 0.5-5% of moisturizer, 0.01-0.3% of pH adjuster, 0.5-3% of preservative, and the balance being deionized water.

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