A durable pleated cotton fabric and its application in ready-to-wear garments

Abstract

The application discloses a durable pleat cotton fabric and application thereof to clothes, and relates to the technical field of cotton fabric production, which comprises cotton fibers and core-sheath type bicomponent thermoplastic fibers, wherein the cotton fibers account for 80-98% of the mass share of the fabric, and the core-sheath type bicomponent thermoplastic fibers account for 2-15% of the mass share of the fabric; the core-sheath type bicomponent thermoplastic fibers are of a core-sheath structure with a core layer of high-melting-point polymer and a sheath layer of low-melting-point polymer; the fabric is subjected to low-temperature short-time heating treatment at a pleat position to locally melt the sheath layer and form solidification points at adjacent fiber contact; and the fabric is subjected to padding with a crosslinking agent and heat curing treatment. The application breaks through the limitation of cotton fabric in making durable pleat products by means of the built-in and local melting structure of the core-sheath type bicomponent thermoplastic fibers in the fabric, and provides a characteristic durable pleat cotton product.

Description

TECHNICAL FIELD

[0001] The present application relates to the technical field of cotton fabric production, in particular to a durable pleated cotton fabric and its application in clothing. BACKGROUND

[0002] Traditional setting methods of cotton pleated fabric mostly rely on chemical cross-linking agent or single heat shrinkage and mechanical pleating process to achieve pleating effect, and urea-formaldehyde and some traditional resins have the risk of formaldehyde residue in actual application and may cause the fabric to become hard in hand feeling, and pure reliance on heat shrinkage or heat setting often causes the pleats to rebound or collapse under the action of multiple household washing, wear or clothing sewing stress.

[0003] Patent CN101407971B discloses a production process of polyester-cotton pleated warp-knitted suit fabric, which realizes tight fabric texture, novel style, three-dimensional effect, softness in thickening, double-color effect of the fabric by using cotton yarn, and increased wearing comfort of the fabric.

[0004] The use of cotton yarn in the above-mentioned patent makes the fabric have a double-color effect and increases the wearing comfort of the fabric, but pure reliance on heat shrinkage or heat setting often causes the pleats to rebound or collapse under the action of multiple household washing, wear or clothing sewing stress.

[0005] Therefore, the present application provides a durable pleated cotton fabric capable of forming distributed physical consolidation nodes or strips at the pleat line to maintain local shape and its application in clothing. SUMMARY

[0006] The present application aims to provide a durable pleated cotton fabric and its application in clothing to solve the technical problem of rebound or collapse of pleats under the action of multiple household washing, wear or clothing sewing stress by pure reliance on heat shrinkage or heat setting.

[0007] To achieve the above-mentioned purpose, the present application provides the following technical solution: a durable pleated cotton fabric, comprising cotton fibers and core-sheath type bicomponent thermoplastic fibers, the cotton fibers account for 80-98% of the mass fraction of the fabric, the core-sheath type bicomponent thermoplastic fibers account for 2-15% of the mass fraction of the fabric, the core-sheath type bicomponent thermoplastic fibers are core-sheath structures with high-melting-point polymers in the core layer and low-melting-point polymers in the sheath layer, the fabric is subjected to low-temperature short-time heating treatment at the pleat folding position to make the sheath layer locally melt and form consolidation nodes with adjacent fibers in contact, and the fabric is subjected to padding with cross-linking agent and heat curing treatment.

[0008] Preferably, the sheath material is selected from low melting point polyester, polylactic acid copolymer or a blend of the above materials, the core material is selected from polyethylene terephthalate PET, polyamide or other high melting point synthetic fiber, and the linear density of the bicomponent fiber is 1.0-4.0 dtex.

[0009] Preferably, the crosslinking agent is selected from 1,2,3,4-butanetetracarboxylic acid BTCA, dialkyl phthalate modifier or a mixture of the above materials, the addition amount of the crosslinking agent is 2.0-6.0% based on the dry fabric mass, and 0.3-2.0% of a catalyst based on the dry fabric mass is further included, and the catalyst is selected from hypophosphite, phosphate or a compound of the two.

[0010] Alternatively, the crosslinking agent is a mixture of low formaldehyde 2D resin, Lewis acid catalyst and strong protective agent, and the addition amount of the crosslinking agent is 2.0-6.0% based on the dry fabric mass.

[0011] Preferably, the weaving structure of the fabric is selected from plain weave, oxford, twill, forged weave or other multi-arm weave, and the dry weight of the fabric is 120-250 g / m 2 , the warp density is 90-180 roots / cm, the weft density is 60-160 roots / cm, and the cotton yarn count used is 30s-140s / 2.

[0012] Preferably, the wet weight ratio of the fabric after padding finishing is 60-120%, and the finishing liquid further includes 0.2-2.0% of a non-ionic silicone oil softener based on the dry fabric mass and 0.1-1.0% of a surfactant based on the dry fabric mass.

[0013] Preferably, the folded part is subjected to two-stage heat treatment to form a fixed structure:

[0014] The first stage is low-temperature short-time heating, the temperature is 90-180℃, and the duration is 5-180 seconds;

[0015] The second stage is medium-high temperature heat curing, the temperature is 140-180℃, and the duration is 30-180 seconds.

[0016] Preferably, the single groove width of the fabric pleat type is 1-30 mm, the pleat pitch and the projection distance of adjacent pleat peaks are 1-40 mm, and the pleat type is one of narrow pleat, wide pleat, triangular pleat, arc-shaped pleat, box pleat, snake pleat or a combination type or a random type.

[0017] Preferably, the fabric folding area presents spaced fixed points or fixed strips, the single fixed point diameter of the fixed points or fixed strips is 0.1-3.0 mm, the fixed strip width is 0.5-6.0 mm, and the fixed points or fixed strips have a spacing of 1-30 mm along the pleat line direction.

[0018] Preferably, the fabric is placed in a shrink film sandwich structure or a mold cavity clamping device during setting, and is mechanically pre-pleated to form a pleat, the shrink film material is a polyester film or a polyolefin film with a thickness of 15-100 microns, and the mold cavity clamping device is a vacuum clamping mold cavity or a mechanical clamping mold cavity.

[0019] The shrink film sandwich structure is: shrink film-fabric-shrink film.

[0020] Preferably, the inner side cloth layer at the junction of the pleat and the seam of the finished garment is provided with a hot melt film strip or a heat-seal adhesive strip, the material of the hot melt film strip or the heat-seal adhesive strip is low-melting polyester film or hot melt copolymer film with a thickness of 15-50 microns and a width of 8-12 mm, the sewing thread is polyester cotton blended or polyester core-spun sewing thread, the stitch length is 0.5-3.0 mm, and the sewing method is one of overlock sewing, overlock sewing or chain sewing, and the hot melt film strip or the heat-seal adhesive strip is adhered to the inner side cloth layer after short-time heating treatment after sewing.

[0021] Preferably, the method comprises the following steps:

[0022] (a) Pre-treating the cotton fabric containing core-sheath type bicomponent thermoplastic fibers, including desizing, enzyme treatment and dehydration;

[0023] (b) Immersing and padding the fabric with a finishing liquid containing a polycarboxylic acid crosslinking agent and a catalyst to a wet weight percentage of 60-120%;

[0024] (c) Mechanical pre-pleating setting in a mold or a shrink film sandwich structure;

[0025] (d) Two-stage heat treatment: the first stage is low-temperature short-time heating to melt the sheath layer of the bicomponent fiber and form micro-welding at the pleat part; the second stage is medium-high temperature short-time heat setting to complete the polycarboxylic acid crosslinking;

[0026] (e) Tension cooling and demolding.

[0027] Compared with the prior art, the present application has the following advantages:

[0028] 1. The present application breaks through the limitation of making durable pleat products from cotton fabric by using the built-in and local fusion structure of core-sheath type bicomponent thermoplastic fiber fabric to form distributed physical consolidation nodes or strips at the pleat part to maintain local shape, thereby providing characteristic durable pleat cotton products.

[0029] 2. The present application realizes the formation of a chemical cross-linking network between fabric fibers to enhance the overall or pleat area structural stability of the fabric by chemical cross-linking of cross-linking agents with low dosage of catalytic systems, replaces formaldehyde-containing cross-linking agents, reduces chemical residues and environmental health risks, and improves the pleat retention performance of the fabric at a lower dosage, meets more stringent environmental and safety requirements, maintains fabric softness, and provides a composite fixing effect with local fusion structure;

[0030] 3. The present application realizes precise molding of pleat profile and process series and parameter control of physical fusion and chemical cross-linking by two-stage heat treatment combined with shrinkage mold forming process, avoids the problem that single heat or single chemical process cannot balance local precision and overall structural strength, and balances equipment adaptability and parameter controllability to facilitate industrialization, and improves production consistency and batch repeatability;

[0031] 4. The present application realizes the formation of a bonding or adhesive layer at the stitching area to disperse the stitching stress and extend the fabric consolidation function at the garment interface by the design and sewing matching of a heat-melting film or heat-sealing tape at the garment level, solves the problem of pleat local damage or pleat type falling off caused by stress concentration at the garment stitching area, and extends the durability of fabric setting to the garment structure, and improves the durability and structural stability of the stitching area in the garment use and washing process. BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF DRAWINGS

[0032] Figure 1 The present application is a durable pleat cotton fabric production process schematic diagram. DETAILED DESCRIPTION

[0033] The technical solutions in the embodiments of the present application will be described clearly and completely below with reference to the drawings in the embodiments of the present application. Obviously, the described embodiments are only part of the embodiments of the present application, rather than all the embodiments. Based on the embodiments in the present application, all other embodiments obtained by those skilled in the art without creative labor fall within the scope of protection of the present application.

[0034] Please refer to Figure 1 , the present application provides an embodiment: a durable pleat cotton fabric and its application in garments, which adopts conventional weight cotton + 8% core-sheath fiber, two-stage heat treatment:

[0035] Further, the cotton fiber accounts for 90%, the core-sheath type bicomponent thermoplastic fiber accounts for 8%, the fiber structure is core-sheath, the core material is PET, the sheath material is low-melting point polyester copolymer, the linear density is 1.5 dtex, the weaving structure is plain, the cotton yarn count is 30s, the warp density is 70 roots / cm, the weft density is 55 roots / cm, and the dry weight is 160 g / m 2 ;

[0036] Desizing scouring: conventional alkali boiling or oxygen bleaching process, pH adjusted to neutral and rinsed to no residual surface material; enzyme washing: low activity cellulase g / L, temperature 45℃, 30min, followed by neutralization and rinsing; dehydrated to moisture content of about 8-12%;

[0037] Finishing liquid formulation and padding (based on dry fabric mass): BTCA: 3.5%, catalyst (SHP, sodium hypophosphite or hypophosphite): 1.0%; non-ionic silicone oil softener: 1.0%; surfactant (wetting and penetrating agent): 0.5%; padding to wet weight ratio: 85%;

[0038] The fabric is placed in a shrink film sandwich structure (polyester film-fabric-polyester film), the shrink film material is PET, the thickness is 25μm; mechanical pre-pleating: pleating is formed by roller pressing mold, pleating parameters: single groove width 3mm, pleat distance 5mm, maintaining tension control device 0.5-1.5N / cm;

[0039] Heat treatment:

[0040] First stage (sheath melting): 100℃, lasting 60s, roller pressing or pressure 0.1-0.5MPa;

[0041] Second stage (thermal curing of BTCA): 165℃, lasting 90s, completed in a through-type heat setting oven;

[0042] Garment sewing reinforcement:

[0043] Low-melting polyester hot melt film strip (thickness 25μm, width 10mm) is placed inside the intersection between pleats and sewing line; sewing line: polyester cotton blended thread, sewing distance 2.5mm, sewing method is overlock sewing; post-sewing heating: vertex hot pressing 130℃, lasting 3-6s, so that the hot melt film is attached to the inside fabric layer;

[0044] Inspection and recording:

[0045] Household washing simulation: according to ISO 6330 or IS0 105-C06, corresponding to 30 standard washing cycles (40℃, neutral washing), record pleat appearance photograph file;

[0046] Stretching and sewing fatigue test: reciprocating stretching is performed on the sewing line for 5000 times, and the morphological changes of the sewing line and the pleat line are recorded.

[0047] See Figure 1 , the present application provides an embodiment: a durable pleated cotton fabric and its application in garments, which adopts low-energy single-stage heat setting, high content of bicomponent fibers:

[0048] Further, cotton fiber accounts for 85%, double component fiber accounts for 12%, linear density is 2.0 dtex, core PET, sheath is low melting point polyester; weaving: fine twill, cotton yarn count is 25s, warp density is 65 roots / cm, weft density is 50 roots / cm, dry weight is 180 g / m 2 ;

[0049] BTCA: 2.0%, catalyst (SHP) 0.5%, non-ionic softener 0.8%, surface activity 0.3%, rolling wet weight ratio 90%;

[0050] Pre-pleating is carried out by adopting a mold cavity clamping device (mechanical clamping mold cavity), clamping pressure is 0.05-0.2 MPa, clamping is maintained for 30-60 s; single-stage heat setting (mainly based on sheath layer melting): 135 DEG C, lasting for 60-120 s, 0.1 MPa pressure is added in the clamp; cooling: natural cooling to room temperature in the clamp, and unclamping;

[0051] Inner lining hot melt film tape: low melting point copolymer film, thickness is 20 μm, width is 8 mm; seam distance is 2.0 mm, and the sewing mode is overlock, and the sewing thread is subjected to low-temperature hot pressing (125 DEG C, 5 s) after sewing;

[0052] Household washing simulation: sampling and photographing are recorded according to 10 standard washing cycles; hand feel instrument measurement: the softness of the fabric is measured by using an impact type hand feel testing machine (instrument reading is recorded for comparison).

[0053] Please refer to Figure 1 , the application provides an embodiment: a durable pleated cotton fabric and its application in garments, which adopts a narrow-pleat high-density pleat type and low linear density double component fiber.

[0054] Further, cotton fiber accounts for 96%, double component fiber accounts for 4%, linear density is 1.0 dtex (for fine and dense pleat type); weaving: plain weave, cotton yarn count is 40s, warp density is 80 roots / cm, weft density is 70 roots / cm, dry weight is 140 g / m 2 ;

[0055] BCTA 4.5%, catalyst (SHP) 1.2%, non-ionic silicone oil softener 0.6%, wet weight ratio 80%;

[0056] A precision roller type pleating machine is adopted to form a narrow pleat: single groove width is 1.2 mm, pleat distance is 1.5 mm, and the equipment roller groove accuracy is ±0.05 mm;

[0057] Two-stage heat treatment:

[0058] First stage: low temperature and short time 95 DEG C, lasting for 15 s (so as to make the sheath layer short-time soften);

[0059] Second stage: heat curing 170 DEG C, lasting for 60 s (to complete crosslinking);

[0060] Cooling: Tension cooling device, fabric passed through cooling zone with 0.5 N / cm tension for 90 s;

[0061] Stitching: Polyester cotton thread, stitch distance 1.0-1.5 mm (fine stitch); No continuous film was used, only a 8 mm wide hot melt point tape was locally pasted at the stitching point, point heating 130℃, 2-4 s;

[0062] Cord fiber observation: Using method 20-50x optical microscope to record the diameter distribution of consolidation points (recorded point diameter range); The rubbing fastness and surface fuzz detection were recorded according to the corresponding national standards.

[0063] Please refer to Figure 1 , the application provides an embodiment: a durable pleated cotton fabric and its application in ready-to-wear clothes, which adopts heavy fabric and box pleat structure:

[0064] Further, the cotton fiber accounts for 88%, the bicomponent fiber accounts for 6%, the linear density is 3.5 dtex, the core is PET, and the sheath is low-melting polyester; Weaving: fine twill or satin, cotton yarn count 24s, warp density 60 roots / cm, weft density 45 roots / cm, dry weight 210 g / m 2 (heavy);

[0065] BTCA 3.0%, catalyst (SHP) 1.0%, non-ionic softener 1.5%, wet weight rate 100%;

[0066] Box pleat setting: single box pleat is formed by using a mold cavity clamping device, the single groove width of the box pleat is 20 mm, and the pleat height is 12 mm;

[0067] Two-stage heat treatment:

[0068] First stage: 120℃, lasting 90 s, 0.2 MPa pressure;

[0069] Second stage: 160℃, lasting 120 s;

[0070] Cooling: The water cooling plate in the clamp is cooled to 30℃, and then the mold is released;

[0071] The sewing area of the ready-to-wear clothes adopts a hot melt film tape with a width of 12 mm and a thickness of 30 μm, the stitch distance is 3.0 mm, and the sewing thread is polyester core-spun thread; After sewing, the sewing tape area is hot-pressed in a hot calender at 140℃ for 4-6 s;

[0072] Fold retention test: 100 folding cycles were observed under standard temperature and humidity; The box pleat geometric size and consolidation point position coordinates were recorded.

[0073] Please refer to Figure 1An embodiment provided by the application: a durable pleated cotton fabric and its application in clothing, wherein the cotton fiber accounts for 92%, the bicomponent fiber accounts for 6%, the core PET and the sheath are polylactic acid PLA or PLA copolymer, and the linear density is 1.8 dtex; weaving: plain weave, count 32s, warp density 68 ends / cm, weft density 52 ends / cm, dry weight 150 g / m 2 ;

[0074] BTCA 3.8%, catalyst (SHP) 1.0%, non-ionic softener 0.8%, wet weight ratio 85%;

[0075] The shrink film sandwich structure (polyolefin film 30 μm) is adopted, and pre-pleating is performed in a vacuum clamp;

[0076] Two-stage heat treatment:

[0077] First stage (PLA sheath layer softening and melting): 110°C, lasting for 45s (the PLA sheath is determined according to the copolymer component, ranging from 100-130°C);

[0078] Second stage (BCTA heat curing): 160°C, lasting for 80s;

[0079] Cooling: tension cooling for 120s;

[0080] The inner side hot melt film tape is a hot melt copolymer film compatible with PLA, with a thickness of 20 μm and a width of 10 mm; the post-sewing heating is 125°C, 4s;

[0081] Biobased material thermal stability record: microscopic examination of the PLA sheath layer after heat aging at 150°C for 30 min; record the fracture mode of the film and fabric bonding interface in the sewing area (peeling test).

[0082] Please refer to Figure 1 An embodiment provided by the application: a durable pleated cotton fabric and its application in clothing, which demonstrates the parameter configuration of implementing the foregoing technology on a continuous production line;

[0083] Further, the cotton fiber accounts for 98%, the bicomponent fiber accounts for 7%, and the linear density is 2.0 dtex (core PET, sheath low-melting polyester); weaving: fine twill, count 30s, warp density 68 ends / cm, weft density 54 ends / cm, dry weight 170 g / m 2 .

[0084] Dip yarn: continuous dip machine, finishing liquid formula (based on the mass of dry fabric): BCTA 3.5%, SHP 1.0%, non-ionic softener 1.0%, surface activity 0.5%, and the wet weight ratio is 80-95% after rolling;

[0085] Pre-pleating unit: continuous roller pleater, shrink film roll supply unit, film thickness 25μm, air vacuum clamping device cooperation, pleat type adjustable by die roller (1-30mm);

[0086] Heat treatment furnace: divided into two sections:

[0087] Section 1 (sheath melting zone) set to 100-130℃, speed adjustable to ensure 10-120s residence time;

[0088] Section 2 (heat curing zone) set to 150-175℃, residence time 30-180s, furnace can be configured with a combination of radiant heating and convection heating;

[0089] Cooling and setting station: tension control unwinding system and cooling roller, cooled to 25-30℃;

[0090] Winding and inspection: online camera records pleat size, cross-section measuring device samples online;

[0091] Hot melt film tape online placement device, synchronously transports the film tape (20-30μm, width 8-12mm) and aligns with the pleat stitching line;

[0092] Sewing machine: automatic overlock sewing machine, stitch distance adjustable 0.5-3.0mm, online heat press set to 130-140℃ after sewing, pressing 2-6s;

[0093] Online: visual inspection of pleat distance and pleat height deviation ±0.5mm, online statistics of consolidation point distribution density;

[0094] Offline sampling: every 500m samples 10 pieces for 5 times of household washing simulation, pleat line microscopic observation, peel adhesion strength test and data recording.

[0095] Test methods and recording table in the above examples:

[0096] 1. Household washing cycle and pleat durability test:

[0097] Washing scheme: use household washing machine or washing tester: temperature 40℃, standard neutral detergent, 800-1000rpm, standard cotton fabric program;

[0098] After each washing, the sample is naturally hung to dry or dried according to the garment instructions;

[0099] Set the number of washes to 5, 10, 30 times for sampling detection;

[0100] Measurement items: measure pleat height, pleat width, and pleat distance before washing and after specified number of washes, and make visual score;

[0101] Pleat depth retention rate calculation: average pleat height after washing / average pleat height before washing × 100%;

[0102] Visual score:

[0103] 5: clean pleats, regular, no significant collapse;

[0104] 4: clear pleats, slight collapse in some areas;

[0105] 3: pleats are distinguishable but overall collapse;

[0106] 2: pleats are largely collapsed, only partially visible;

[0107] 1: pleats are barely visible;

[0108] 0: no trace of pleats;

[0109] Record: pleat height, pleat depth retention, visual score after each wash and take photos for archive.

[0110] 2. Peel and bond strength test (measure the bond between the melt-bonded sheath and the hot melt film):

[0111] Test A: anchor point peel strength

[0112] Cut the fabric containing the anchor point into 25mm x 100mm test pieces with the anchor point in the center of the test piece, and perform a 90° / 180° peel test or micro-tensile peel on a universal testing machine, pulling apart at a rate of 50mm / min and recording the maximum force (N); repeat 5 times, record the average value and standard deviation;

[0113] Test B: hot melt film and fabric bond peel (garment joint area)

[0114] Pre-bond the hot melt film strip according to the actual garment sewing method, then cut the sample plate to perform a T-type peel or 180° peel test (grip distance 50mm, rate 100mm / min); record the peak peel force (N / cm).

[0115] 3. Sewing strength and sewing fatigue test

[0116] Sewing break test:

[0117] Sewing test pieces are made according to the actual sewing method (including hot melt film strip, no strip), the sample width is 50mm, and the thread passes through the center;

[0118] The universal testing machine clamps the two sides of the fabric (grip distance 50mm), and stretches at a speed of 100mm / min, recording the initial breaking force (N) at the sewing point; repeat 5 times;

[0119] Sewing fatigue (reciprocal) test:

[0120] On the fatigue testing machine, the stitched sample is reciprocated (amplitude 10mm) at a frequency of 1Hz, for 5000 cycles or a user specified number of times, and whether the stitching has come apart, torn or pleat failure is recorded and photographed.

[0121] Working principle: Introduce core-sheath bicomponent thermoplastic fiber into the fabric, the sheath layer is a low-melting polymer, and the core layer is a high-melting fiber. After mechanical pre-pleating, first heat at low temperature for a short time to soften or partially melt the sheath layer. The sheath layer melts and contacts with adjacent fibers at the pleat contact points and solidifies, forming distributed micro-fixed points or strips, thereby establishing a physical local fixed structure at the pleat line position.

[0122] After or at the same time as the fusion fixation, a crosslinking agent is applied to the fabric and heat cured at medium-high temperature to esterify part of the carboxylic acid between fibers to form a chemical crosslinking bond. This chemical crosslinking provides additional structural constraints to the overall fabric or pleat area, and cooperates with the fusion points to form a composite fixation system.

[0123] The above two types of fixation are precisely shaped through mold cavity clamping or shrink film sandwich structure, and a low-melting hot melt film strip is placed at the pleat and stitching interface during the garment stage and bonded by short-time heating to disperse the stress of the stitching and extend the fabric fixation system to the garment stitching interface. The three work together to achieve the structured retention of the pleat from the fabric to the garment.

[0124] It is apparent for those skilled in the art that the present application is not limited to the details of the above exemplary embodiments, but can be implemented in other concrete forms without departing from the spirit or essential characteristics of the present application. Therefore, the embodiments should be considered in all aspects as exemplary and non-limiting, and the scope of the present application is defined by the appended claims rather than the above description, and it is intended to encompass all changes falling within the meaning and scope of the equivalent elements of the claims. Any reference signs in the claims should not be considered as limiting the claims involved.

Claims

1. A durable crepe cotton fabric comprising cotton fibers and core-sheath bicomponent thermoplastic fibers, characterized in that: The cotton fiber accounts for 80-98% of the mass share of the fabric, the core-sheath type bicomponent thermoplastic fiber accounts for 2-15% of the mass share of the fabric, the core-sheath type bicomponent thermoplastic fiber is a core-sheath structure with a high-melting-point polymer as the core layer and a low-melting-point polymer as the sheath layer, the fabric is subjected to low-temperature short-time heating treatment at the fold site to make the sheath layer locally melt and form a consolidation point at the contact with adjacent fibers, and the fabric is impregnated with a crosslinking agent and subjected to heat curing treatment; The fold site is subjected to two-stage heat treatment to form a shaped structure: The first stage is low-temperature short-time heating, the temperature is 90-180℃, and the duration is 5-180 seconds; The second stage is medium-high temperature heat curing, the temperature is 140-180℃, and the duration is 30-180 seconds; The fabric fold area presents spaced consolidation points or consolidation strips, the single consolidation point diameter of the consolidation point or consolidation strip is 0.1-3.0mm, the consolidation strip width is 0.5-6.0mm, and the consolidation point or consolidation strip spacing along the fold line direction is 1-30mm; The fabric is placed in a shrink film sandwich structure or a mold cavity clamping device during shaping, a mechanical pre-folding is performed to form a fold type, the shrink film material is a polyester film or a polyolefin film with a thickness of 15-100μm, and the mold cavity clamping device is a vacuum clamping mold cavity or a mechanical clamping mold cavity; The shrink film sandwich structure is: shrink film-fabric-shrink film.

2. A durable pleated cotton fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that: The sheath layer material is selected from low-melting-point polyester, polylactic acid copolymer or a blend of the above materials, the core layer material is selected from polyethylene terephthalate PET, polyamide or other high-melting-point synthetic fibers, and the linear density of the bicomponent fiber is 1.0-4.0dtex.

3. A durable pleated cotton fabric as claimed in claim 1, wherein: The crosslinking agent is selected from 1,2,3,4-butane tetracarboxylic acid BTCA, dialkyl phthalate modifier or a mixture of the above materials, the addition amount of the crosslinking agent is 2.0-6.0% based on the mass of dry fabric, and 0.3-2.0% of a catalyst based on the mass of dry fabric is further included, and the catalyst is selected from hypophosphite, phosphate or a compound of the two.

4. The durable pleated cotton fabric of claim 1, wherein: The crosslinking agent is a mixture of low-formaldehyde 2D resin, Lewis acid catalyst and strong protective agent, and the addition amount of the crosslinking agent is 2.0-6.0% based on the mass of dry fabric.

5. A durable pleated cotton fabric as claimed in claim 1, wherein: The fabric is woven in plain, oxford, twill, broken twill or other multi-end weave, with a dry weight of 120-250 g / m 2 The density is 90-180 ends / cm in the warp and 60-160 ends / cm in the weft, with a cotton yarn count of 30s-140s / 2.

6. A durable pleated cotton fabric as claimed in claim 1, wherein: The wet weight rate of the fabric after impregnation finishing is 60-120%, and the finishing liquid further includes 0.2-2.0% of a non-ionic silicone oil softener based on the mass of dry fabric and 0.1-1.0% of a surfactant based on the mass of dry fabric.

7. A durable pleated cotton fabric as claimed in claim 1, wherein: The single groove width of the fabric fold type is 1-30mm, the pitch and the projection distance of adjacent fold peaks are 1-40mm, and the fold type is one of narrow fold, wide fold, triangular fold, arc fold, box fold and snake fold or a combination type or a random type.

8. The use of a durable pleated cotton fabric on a garment, suitable for a durable pleated cotton fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that: The inner cloth layer at the junction of the pleats and the stitching of the finished garment is provided with a hot melt film tape or a heat-seal adhesive tape, the material of the hot melt film tape or the heat-seal adhesive tape is low-melting-point polyester film or hot melt copolymer film, the thickness is 15-50 μm, the width is 8-12 mm, the stitching is polyester cotton blended or polyester core-spun stitching, the stitch length is 0.5-3.0 mm, the stitching mode is one of overlock stitching, overlock stitching or chain stitching, and the hot melt film tape or the heat-seal adhesive tape is adhered to the inner cloth layer after short-time heating treatment after the garment is stitched.

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