Preparation method of a wearable fabric with air permeability and warmth retention performance

Abstract

The application belongs to the technical field of textiles, and discloses a preparation method of a wearable fabric with air permeability and warmth retention performance. The preparation method is to spin and weave polyester dynamic profiled yarns to obtain the wearable fabric with air permeability and warmth retention performance. The cross section shape of the polyester dynamic profiled yarns periodically changes along the length direction, and the cross section shape of the monofilament on each period is flat and triangular in sequence. The polyester dynamic profiled yarns adopted by the application have periodically changing monofilament cross sections, and the fabric prepared by using the polyester dynamic profiled yarns can construct micro-alternating channels of the air permeability zone and the warmth retention zone in the same plane, so that the prepared fabric has air permeability and warmth retention performance.

Description

TECHNICAL FIELD

[0001] The application belongs to the technical field of textiles and relates to a preparation method of a wearable fabric with both air permeability and warmth retention performance. BACKGROUND

[0002] The cross section of the polyester fiber used in traditional polyester fabric is usually circular, and the fabric woven from such polyester fiber usually cannot balance air permeability and warmth retention performance.

[0003] Due to the special structure of the profiled yarn, the air permeability and warmth retention performance of the fabric woven from the profiled yarn can be effectively improved. However, in order to improve the performance of the fabric, the prior art usually adopts a single profiled yarn solution with strong functional orientation, or adopts a multi-profiled yarn blending solution, which is essentially static mixing and cannot achieve both air permeability and warmth retention performance. Some fabrics claimed to have both functions rely on a multi-layer composite structure, which is still heavy and has the problem of easy peeling between layers.

[0004] Patent No. CN220034832U discloses a warm and breathable knitted sweater fabric, which is knitted from a first composite yarn containing cashmere yarn, a second composite yarn containing magnetic health acrylic yarn, and spandex long yarn. The first composite yarn includes core yarn and wrapping yarn. The core yarn is a composite and twisted yarn, which is composed of hollow polyester filament and profiled cross-section polyester filament. The fabric can realize skin-friendly, breathable, and warm functions. However, the warmth retention performance of the fabric mainly depends on the cashmere material, which also easily leads to a heavy fabric. In addition, the breathability of the fabric is not optimized by the structure and is affected by the moisture absorption of the fiber. Moreover, the multi-layer warp knitting structure may increase the thickness and affect the lightness of the fabric.

[0005] Patent application No. CN117488468A discloses a warm and breathable next-to-skin garment fabric and a preparation process thereof. The fabric is spun by using PET and PBT fibers with a cross-shaped hollow cross-section, and is woven and dyed and finished to form a fabric. The fabric tries to balance air permeability, moisture absorption, and quick drying, and warmth retention by means of cross-shaped grooves for moisture guiding and drainage, and hollow structure for heat storage. However, the warmth retention performance of the fabric only depends on the single heat storage of the hollow structure of the fiber, and cannot achieve high-efficiency warmth retention through structural design. The fabric has limited effect in a strong warmth retention scene, and cannot balance high air permeability and high warmth retention. In addition, although the fabric uses double-component profiled yarn, the yarn is essentially static, cannot form functional zones, and cannot achieve both air permeability and warmth retention.

[0006] Therefore, it is necessary to provide a preparation method of a wearable fabric with both air permeability and warmth retention performance to solve the above problems, which has great significance. SUMMARY

[0007] The application aims to solve the problems in the prior art and provide a preparation method of a wear fabric with air permeability and warmth retention.

[0008] To achieve the above-mentioned purpose, the application adopts the technical scheme as follows.

[0009] The preparation method of the wear fabric with air permeability and warmth retention comprises the following steps: spinning and weaving polyester dynamic profiled yarn to obtain the wear fabric with air permeability and warmth retention.

[0010] The cross-sectional shape of the polyester dynamic profiled yarn changes periodically along the length direction, and the cross-sectional shape of the single yarn on each period is flat and triangular in sequence.

[0011] As a preferred technical scheme,

[0012] The preparation method of the wear fabric with air permeability and warmth retention, the length ratio of the flat cross-section and the triangular cross-section in each period along the length direction of the polyester dynamic profiled yarn is 1-2.5:1-2.5.

[0013] The preparation method of the wear fabric with air permeability and warmth retention, the air permeability of the air permeable area is greater than or equal to 600 mm / s, and the warmth retention coefficient is less than or equal to 0.5 clo; the area air permeability of the warmth retention area is less than or equal to 200 mm / s, and the warmth retention coefficient is greater than or equal to 0.9 clo.

[0014] The preparation method of the wear fabric with air permeability and warmth retention, the preparation method of the polyester dynamic profiled yarn comprises the following steps: the polyester melt is sprayed from the spinneret, is initially cooled to 200-240 DEG C in the spinning duct to obtain the initially shaped single yarn, and then the initially shaped single yarn is subjected to periodic cold air impact of 0-20 DEG C in the spinning duct, so that the temperature of the impacted area is reduced to 70-80 DEG C within 20-50 ms, and then the single yarn is subjected to bundling, drawing, oiling and winding in sequence to obtain the polyester dynamic profiled yarn.

[0015] The cold air impact is realized by the single yarn cold air dynamic profiled nozzle system installed in the spinning duct, and the single yarn cold air dynamic profiled nozzle system is installed in the spinning duct by the support.

[0016] The single-filament cold air dynamic special-shaped nozzle system comprises a nozzle module and a control system; the control system is used for controlling the position, time and interval of the opening / closing of the nozzle according to a preset program, and the control system comprises an electromagnetic valve, a nozzle switch controller and a cold air pressure regulating valve; the nozzle module is composed of a plurality of nozzles, each nozzle is used for applying cold air impact to a single filament, each nozzle is provided with 4 or 6 annularly and uniformly distributed air outlets, and the air outlets are directed to the circumferential surface of the single filament; an electromagnetic valve is respectively installed on the pipeline corresponding to each air outlet, and all the electromagnetic valves are connected to the nozzle switch controller through a cable and controlled by the nozzle switch controller; the nozzles are jointly connected to a total air inlet pipe through air pipes, and the cold air pressure regulating valve is installed at the inlet of the total air inlet pipe to adjust the air outlet temperature and pressure of the nozzle;

[0017] The periodic application of cold air impact refers to that two opposite air outlets are first opened to simultaneously apply cold air impact to the single filament for 20-50 ms, then three air outlets are switched to simultaneously apply cold air impact to the single filament for 20-50 ms, and the cold air impact process is alternately repeated; when the three air outlets simultaneously apply cold air impact to the single filament, the angle formed by the air outlet directions of the adjacent two air outlets is not less than 90°.

[0018] The preparation method of the breathable and warm-keeping fabric as described above, the diameter of the spinning hole on the spinneret is 0.05-0.3 mm; the temperature of the polyester melt is 280-300 ℃; and the spinning speed is 10-18 m / min.

[0019] The preparation method of the breathable and warm-keeping fabric as described above, the diameter of the air outlet on each nozzle is 0.05-0.2 mm, and the diameter of the inlet hole of the nozzle through which the single filament passes is 0.06-0.6 mm.

[0020] The preparation method of the breathable and warm-keeping fabric as described above, the preliminary cooling adopts ring blowing cooling or side blowing cooling, the cooling air temperature is 20-30 ℃, and the cooling air speed is 0.8-1.5 m / s.

[0021] The preparation method of the breathable and warm-keeping fabric as described above, the height of the nozzle module from the ring blowing or side blowing area is 30-80 cm.

[0022] The preparation method of the breathable and warm-keeping fabric as described above, the grammage of the breathable and warm-keeping fabric is 100-150 g / m 2 .

[0023] Invention principle:

[0024] In view of the problems that the existing polyester fabric is difficult to balance the air permeability and the warmth retention performance, and the composite structure fabric is thick and heavy and affects the wearing comfort, the polyester dynamic profiled yarn with periodic change of single yarn section is adopted to spin and weave, and the obtained fabric has excellent air permeability and warmth retention performance. Specifically, the "expansion-shrinkage" alternating structure is designed on the single fiber (the triangular section is used in the air permeable section to form a high porosity, and the flat section is used in the warm section to form a low porosity), so that the micro-alternating channels of the "air permeable area" and the "warm area" are constructed in the same plane. The structure realizes the dynamic balance of the function, the air permeable section guarantees the air circulation, the warm section effectively prevents the heat loss, and the balance of the air permeability and the warmth retention performance is realized on the single layer thin fabric, and the wearing comfort is significantly improved.

[0025] Advantages:

[0026] The polyester dynamic profiled yarn used in the application has a periodic change of single yarn section, the "expansion-shrinkage" alternating structure is designed on the single fiber, and the fabric prepared by the polyester dynamic profiled yarn can construct the micro-alternating channels of the "air permeable area" and the "warm area" in the same plane. The structure realizes the dynamic balance of the function, the air permeable section guarantees the air circulation, the warm section effectively prevents the heat loss, and the balance of the air permeability and the warmth retention performance is realized on the single layer thin fabric, and the wearing comfort is significantly improved. DETAILED DESCRIPTION

[0027] The application will be further described in conjunction with specific embodiments. It should be understood that these embodiments are only used to illustrate the application and not to limit the scope of the application. In addition, it should be understood that those skilled in the art can make various modifications or modifications to the application after reading the content taught by the application, and these equivalent forms also fall within the scope defined by the claims attached to the application.

[0028] In order to ensure the performance of the substances used in each embodiment, the manufacturer and the brand of the substance are written, and the products of other manufacturers and brands conforming to the definition of the application are also feasible.

[0029] The test methods of the relevant performance indicators in the following embodiments are as follows:

[0030] Air permeability: the fabric with air permeability and warmth retention performance prepared in each embodiment is used as a sample, and then the air permeability of the air permeable section and the air permeable section of the sample is determined under the conditions that the temperature is 20 DEG C, the relative humidity is 65%, and the sample is balanced for 24 hours according to the standard GB / T 5453-2025 "Determination of air permeability of textile fabrics"; wherein the sample area is 20cm 2 , and the pressure difference is 100Pa.

[0031] Thermal coefficient: the fabric with both air permeability and thermal retention performance prepared in each example is taken as a sample, then the air permeable zone and the air permeable zone of the sample are tested for thermal resistance after being balanced for 24 h under the condition of a temperature of 20℃ and a relative humidity of 65% according to the standard GB / T 11048-2018 "Textiles-Physiological effects- Measurement of thermal and water-vapor resistance under steady-state conditions", and the thermal coefficient of the air permeable zone and the air permeable zone is respectively obtained by the formula "thermal coefficient = 1 / thermal resistance"; wherein, the test is set to have a test plate temperature of 33℃, an environment temperature of 20℃, an environment relative humidity of 65%, and an air flow velocity of ≤0.2 m / s, and the thermal resistance data is recorded after the test system reaches a thermal steady state (heat flux density changes ≤5% / h).

[0032] Example 1

[0033] A preparation method of a fabric with both air permeability and thermal retention performance, comprising the following steps:

[0034] (1) After the polyester chip (polyester semi-dull chip, manufacturer Jiangsu Hengke New Material Co., Ltd., batch number MS01) is melted, the polyester melt is sprayed out through a spinneret, and then the initially formed filaments are obtained by adopting ring blowing cooling to preliminarily cool to 240℃ in the spinning duct; wherein, the spinneret has a spinneret hole diameter of 0.3 mm, the spinning speed is 18 m / min, the temperature of the polyester melt is 300℃, the cooling air temperature is 30℃, and the cooling air speed is 1.5 m / s;

[0035] (2) The initially formed filaments are subjected to periodic cold air impact of 0℃ by a single-filament cold air dynamic profile nozzle system installed in the spinning duct, so that the temperature of the impacted area is reduced to 70℃; wherein, the cold air impact pressure is 0.5 MPa, and the single-filament cold air dynamic profile nozzle system comprises a nozzle module and a control system;

[0036] The control system comprises a solenoid valve, a nozzle switch controller and a cold air pressure regulating valve;

[0037] The nozzle module is composed of three nozzles, each nozzle is used to apply cold air impact to a single filament, each nozzle has four air outlet holes uniformly distributed in a ring shape, and the air outlet holes are directed to the circumferential surface of the single filament; a solenoid valve is installed on the pipeline corresponding to each air outlet hole, and all solenoid valves are connected to the nozzle switch controller through a cable; each nozzle is connected to the total air inlet pipe through the air pipe, and the cold air pressure regulating valve is installed at the inlet of the total air inlet pipe;

[0038] The cold air impact is periodically applied, which means that the two air outlets are first opened to simultaneously impact the single filament from opposite sides for 20 ms, and then switched to three air outlets arranged uniformly along the circumference to simultaneously impact the single filament for 50 ms, and the cold air impact process is alternately repeated; when the three air outlets simultaneously impact the single filament, the angle between the directions of the air outlets of two adjacent air outlets is 90°;

[0039] The height of the nozzle module from the ring blowing area is 30 cm, the diameter of the air outlet hole is 0.1 mm, and the diameter of the yarn inlet hole of the nozzle through which the single filament passes is 0.6 mm;

[0040] (3) The single filament coming out of the spinning duct sequentially passes through bundling, drawing and setting, oiling and winding to obtain the polyester dynamic profiled yarn; wherein the draw ratio is 50 times;

[0041] The cross-sectional shape of the obtained polyester dynamic profiled yarn periodically changes along the length direction, and the cross-sectional shape of the single filament in each period is in turn flat and triangular, and the length ratio of the flat cross-section to the triangular cross-section in each period is 1:2.5;

[0042] (4) A circular weft knitting process is adopted, the polyester dynamic profiled yarn obtained above is used as weft yarn, and polyester low-elasticity filament (polyester filament, manufacturer Jiangsu Hengke New Material Co., Ltd., specification 150D / 96F semi-gloss DTY) is used as warp yarn to spin and weave to obtain a wearable fabric with both air permeability and warmth retention performance; wherein the weft yarn is periodically alternated in "flat section-triangular section", which will make the fabric naturally form "air permeable zone-warm zone" with corresponding functions.

[0043] The final obtained wearable fabric with both air permeability and warmth retention performance has a grammage of 100 g / m 2 , the air permeability of the air permeable zone is 600 mm / s, and the warmth retention coefficient is 0.5 clo; the area air permeability of the warm zone is 200 mm / s, and the warmth retention coefficient is 0.9 clo.

[0044] Example 2

[0045] A method for preparing a wearable fabric with both air permeability and warmth retention performance, the steps are as follows:

[0046] (1) After the polyester chip (polyester semi-gloss chip, manufacturer Jiangsu Hengke New Material Co., Ltd., batch number MS01) is melted, the polyester melt is sprayed out through the spinneret, and then the side blowing cooling is adopted to preliminarily cool in the spinning duct to 220℃ to obtain the preliminarily formed single filament; wherein the spinneret hole diameter on the spinneret is 0.2 mm, the spinning speed is 12 m / min, the temperature of the polyester melt is 290℃, the cooling air temperature is 27℃, and the cooling air speed is 1.3 m / s;

[0047] (2) periodically applying 10℃ cold air impact on the initially formed monofilament in the spinning duct through the monofilament cold air dynamic profile nozzle system installed in the spinning duct, so that the temperature of the impacted area is reduced to 75℃; wherein the cold air impact pressure is 0.4MPa, and the monofilament cold air dynamic profile nozzle system used comprises a nozzle module and a control system;

[0048] The control system comprises solenoid valves, nozzle switch controllers and cold air pressure regulating valves;

[0049] The nozzle module is composed of 9 nozzles, each of which is used to apply cold air impact on a monofilament, and each nozzle has 6 annularly and uniformly distributed air outlets, and the air outlets are directed towards the monofilament peripheral surface; a solenoid valve is installed on the pipeline corresponding to each air outlet, and all the solenoid valves are connected to the nozzle switch controller through a cable; each nozzle is connected to the total air inlet pipe through the air pipe, and the cold air pressure regulating valve is installed at the inlet of the total air inlet pipe;

[0050] Periodically applying cold air impact means that two air outlets are first opened to simultaneously impact the monofilament from opposite sides for 25ms, and then three air outlets arranged uniformly along the circumference are switched to simultaneously impact the monofilament for 35ms, and the cold air impact process is alternately repeated; when the three air outlets simultaneously impact the monofilament, the angle between the directions of the air outlets of the adjacent two air outlets is 120°;

[0051] The height of the nozzle module from the side blowing area is 50cm, the diameter of the air outlet is 0.2mm, and the diameter of the monofilament inlet hole of the nozzle through which the monofilament passes is 0.3mm;

[0052] (3) The monofilament coming out of the spinning duct successively passes through bundling, drawing and setting, oiling and winding to obtain the polyester dynamic profile yarn; wherein the draw ratio is 40 times;

[0053] The cross-sectional shape of the obtained polyester dynamic profile yarn periodically changes along the length direction, and the cross-sectional shape of each period successively is flat and triangular, and the length ratio of the flat cross-section to the triangular cross-section in each period is 1:1.4;

[0054] (4) Using circular weft knitting process, the above obtained polyester dynamic profile yarn is used as weft yarn, and polyester low-elasticity yarn (polyester filament, manufacturer: Jiangsu Hengke New Material Co., Ltd., specification: 120D / 96F semi-lustrous DTY) is used as warp yarn to spin and weave to obtain a wear fabric with both air permeability and warmth retention performance; wherein the weft yarn is periodically alternated with "flat section-triangular section", which will make the fabric naturally form "air permeable area-warm area" with corresponding functions.

[0055] The final obtained wear fabric with both air permeability and warmth retention performance has a grammage of 115g / m 2The air permeability of the air permeable area is 650 mm / s, and the thermal retention coefficient is 0.45 clo; the area air permeability of the thermal retention area is 180 mm / s, and the thermal retention coefficient is 1 clo.

[0056] Example 3

[0057] A preparation method of a fabric with air permeability and thermal retention performance, comprising the following steps:

[0058] (1) After the polyester chip (polyester semi-dull chip, manufacturer Jiangsu Hengke New Material Co., Ltd., batch number MS01) is melted, the polyester melt is sprayed out through a spinneret, and then the polyester melt is preliminarily cooled to 210 DEG C in a spinning duct by ring blowing cooling to obtain a preliminarily formed single yarn; wherein the spinneret hole diameter is 0.1 mm, the spinning speed is 15 m / min, the temperature of the polyester melt is 285 DEG C, the cooling air temperature is 25 DEG C, and the cooling air speed is 1.1 m / s;

[0059] (2) The preliminarily formed single yarn is subjected to periodic cold air impact of 20 DEG C in the spinning duct by a single yarn cold air dynamic profile nozzle system installed in the spinning duct, so that the temperature of the impacted area is reduced to 80 DEG C; wherein the cold air impact pressure is 0.3 MPa, and the single yarn cold air dynamic profile nozzle system comprises a nozzle module and a control system;

[0060] The control system comprises a solenoid valve, a nozzle switch controller and a cold air pressure regulating valve;

[0061] The nozzle module is composed of 12 nozzles, each nozzle is used to apply cold air impact to a single yarn, each nozzle has 4 evenly distributed gas outlets in the form of a ring, and the gas outlets are directed to the single yarn surface; a solenoid valve is installed on the pipeline corresponding to each gas outlet, and all solenoid valves are connected to the nozzle switch controller through a cable; each nozzle is connected to the total air inlet pipe through the air pipe, and the cold air pressure regulating valve is installed at the inlet of the total air inlet pipe;

[0062] Periodic cold air impact means that two gas outlets are opened at the same time from opposite sides to simultaneously impact the single yarn with cold air for 30 ms, and then three gas outlets arranged uniformly along the circumference are switched to simultaneously impact the single yarn with cold air for 30 ms, and the cold air impact process is repeated alternately; when the three gas outlets simultaneously impact the single yarn with cold air, the angle between the gas outlet directions of the adjacent two gas outlets is 150 DEG;

[0063] The height of the nozzle module from the ring blowing area is 70 cm, the diameter of the gas outlet is 0.1 mm, and the diameter of the yarn inlet hole of the nozzle through which the single yarn passes is 0.15 mm;

[0064] (3) The single filaments coming out of the spinning duct successively pass through bundling, drawing and setting, oiling and winding to produce the polyester dynamic profiled yarn; wherein the draw ratio is 30 times;

[0065] The cross-sectional shape of the single filaments of the polyester dynamic profiled yarn produced periodically changes along the length direction, and the cross-sectional shape of the single filaments on each period successively is flat and triangular, and the length ratio corresponding to the flat cross-section and the triangular cross-section in each period is 1:1;

[0066] (4) The circular weft knitting process is adopted, the polyester dynamic profiled yarn produced above is used as weft yarn, and polyester low-elasticity yarn (polyester filament, manufacturer Jiangsu Hengke New Material Co., Ltd., specification 100D / 96F semi-gloss DTY) is used as warp yarn to perform spinning and weaving to obtain the wearing fabric with both air permeability and warmth retention performance; wherein the weft yarn is periodically alternated in "flat section-triangular section", which will make the fabric naturally form the "air permeable area-warm area" with corresponding functions.

[0067] The final wearing fabric with both air permeability and warmth retention performance has a grammage of 130 g / m 2 , the air permeability of the air permeable area is 700 mm / s, and the warmth retention coefficient is 0.4 clo; the area air permeability of the warm area is 150 mm / s, and the warmth retention coefficient is 1.1 clo.

[0068] Example 4

[0069] A preparation method of a wearing fabric with both air permeability and warmth retention performance, the steps are as follows:

[0070] (1) The polyester chip (polyester semi-gloss chip, manufacturer Jiangsu Hengke New Material Co., Ltd., batch number MS01) is melted and then the polyester melt is sprayed out through the spinneret, and then the preliminary cooling is performed in the spinning duct by using side blowing cooling to 200℃ to obtain the preliminarily formed single filaments; wherein the spinneret hole diameter on the spinneret is 0.05 mm, the spinning speed is 10 m / min, the temperature of the polyester melt is 280℃, the cooling air temperature is 20℃, and the cooling air speed is 0.8 m / s;

[0071] (2) The 20℃ cold air impact is periodically applied to the preliminarily formed single filaments in the spinning duct by using the single filament cold air dynamic profiled nozzle system installed in the spinning duct to reduce the temperature of the impacted area to 70℃; wherein the cold air impact pressure is 0.2 MPa, and the single filament cold air dynamic profiled nozzle system used includes nozzle module and control system;

[0072] The control system includes electromagnetic valve, nozzle switch controller and cold air pressure regulating valve;

[0073] The nozzle module is composed of 36 nozzles, each of which is used to apply cold air impact to a single filament, each nozzle has 6 air outlets uniformly distributed in a ring shape, and the air outlets are directed to the circumference of the single filament; an electromagnetic valve is installed on the pipeline corresponding to each air outlet, and all electromagnetic valves are connected to the nozzle switch controller through a cable; each nozzle is connected to the total air inlet pipe through the air pipe, and a cold air pressure regulating valve is installed at the inlet of the total air inlet pipe;

[0074] The periodic application of cold air impact means that two air outlets are first opened to simultaneously apply cold air impact to the single filament from opposite sides for 35 ms, and then switched to three air outlets arranged uniformly along the circumference to simultaneously apply cold air impact to the single filament for 25 ms, and the cold air impact process is alternately repeated; when the three air outlets simultaneously apply cold air impact to the single filament, the angle between the directions of the air outlets of the adjacent two air outlets is 180°;

[0075] The height of the nozzle module from the side blowing area is 80 cm, the diameter of the air outlet is 0.05 mm, and the diameter of the filament inlet hole of the nozzle through which the single filament passes is 0.06 mm;

[0076] (3) The single filaments coming out of the spinning duct pass through bundling, drawing and setting, oiling, and winding in sequence to obtain polyester dynamic profiled yarn; wherein the draw ratio is 20 times;

[0077] The cross-sectional shape of the obtained polyester dynamic profiled yarn periodically changes along the length direction, and the cross-sectional shape of each period is in turn flat and triangular, and the length ratio of the flat cross-section to the triangular cross-section in each period is 1.4:1;

[0078] (4) Using a circular weft knitting process, the above obtained polyester dynamic profiled yarn is used as weft yarn, and polyester low-elasticity yarn (polyester filament, manufacturer Jiangsu Hengke New Material Co., Ltd., specification 100D / 96F semi-gloss DTY) is used as warp yarn to spin and weave a fabric with both air permeability and warmth retention performance; wherein the weft yarn is periodically alternated in "flat section-triangular section", which will naturally form "air permeable zone-warm zone" with corresponding functions.

[0079] The final obtained fabric with both air permeability and warmth retention performance has a grammage of 140 g / m 2 , the air permeability of the air permeable zone is 750 mm / s, and the warmth retention coefficient is 0.35 clo; the area air permeability of the warm zone is 120 mm / s, and the warmth retention coefficient is 1.2 clo.

[0080] Example 5

[0081] A method for preparing a fabric with both air permeability and warmth retention performance, the steps are as follows:

[0082] (1) melt the polyester chip (polyester semi-dull chip, manufacturer Jiangsu Hengke New Material Co., Ltd., batch number MS01), and then spray the polyester melt through the spinneret, and then preliminarily cool the polyester melt to 200℃ in the spinning duct by side blowing cooling to obtain the preliminarily formed filaments; wherein the diameter of the spinning hole on the spinneret is 0.05 mm, the spinning speed is 10 m / min, the temperature of the polyester melt is 280℃, the cooling air temperature is 20℃, and the cooling air speed is 0.8 m / s;

[0083] (2) periodically apply 20℃ cold air impact to the preliminarily formed filaments in the spinning duct by the single-filament cold air dynamic profile nozzle system installed in the spinning duct to reduce the temperature of the impacted area to 70℃; wherein the cold air impact pressure is 0.2 MPa, and the single-filament cold air dynamic profile nozzle system comprises a nozzle module and a control system;

[0084] The control system comprises solenoid valves, nozzle switch controllers, and a cold air pressure regulating valve.

[0085] The nozzle module is composed of 36 nozzles, each of which is used to apply cold air impact to a single filament, and each nozzle has 4 air outlets arranged in a ring shape and uniformly distributed, and the air outlets are directed towards the surface of the single filament; a solenoid valve is installed on the pipeline corresponding to each air outlet, and all the solenoid valves are connected to the nozzle switch controller through a cable; the nozzles are connected to the total air inlet pipe through the air pipe, and the cold air pressure regulating valve is installed at the inlet of the total air inlet pipe.

[0086] Periodically applying cold air impact means that two air outlets are opened at the same time from opposite sides to impact the single filament with cold air for 50 ms, and then three air outlets arranged uniformly along the circumference are switched to impact the single filament with cold air at the same time for 20 ms, and the cold air impact process is repeated alternately; when the three air outlets impact the single filament with cold air at the same time, the angle between the directions of the air outlets of the adjacent two air outlets is 120°.

[0087] The height of the nozzle module from the side blowing area is 80 cm, the diameter of the air outlet is 0.05 mm, and the diameter of the inlet hole of the nozzle through which the single filament passes is 0.06 mm.

[0088] (3) the single filaments coming out of the spinning duct successively pass through bundling, drawing and setting, oiling, and winding to obtain the polyester dynamic profile yarn; wherein the draw ratio is 20 times.

[0089] The cross-sectional shape of the single filaments of the obtained polyester dynamic profile yarn periodically changes along the length direction, and the cross-sectional shape of the single filaments in each period is in turn flat and triangular, and the length ratio of the flat cross-section to the triangular cross-section in each period is 2.5:1.

[0090] (4) Using circular machine weft knitting process, the above prepared polyester dynamic profiled yarn is used as weft yarn, and polyester low elastic yarn (polyester filament, manufacturer Jiangsu Hengke New Material Co., Ltd., specification 100D / 96F semi-gloss DTY) is used as warp yarn to carry out spinning and weaving to obtain a wearable fabric with both air permeability and warmth retention performance; wherein the weft yarn is periodically alternating "flat section-triangle section", which can make the fabric naturally form corresponding functional "air permeable area-warm area".

[0091] The final prepared wearable fabric with both air permeability and warmth retention performance has a grammage of 150 g / m 2 , the air permeability of the air permeable area is 800 mm / s, and the warmth retention coefficient is 0.3 clo; the area air permeability of the warm area is 100 mm / s, and the warmth retention coefficient is 1.3 clo.

Claims

1. A method for preparing a garment fabric that combines breathability and warmth retention, characterized in that: Polyester dynamic profiled yarn is spun and woven to obtain clothing fabrics that combine breathability and warmth. The cross-sectional shape of the single filament of the dynamic profiled polyester yarn changes periodically along the length direction, and the cross-sectional shape of the single filament in each cycle is successively flat and triangular. The preparation method of polyester dynamic profiled yarn is as follows: the polyester melt ejected from the spinneret is first cooled to 200~240℃ in the spinning tunnel to obtain a preliminary shaped monofilament. Then, cold air at 0~20℃ is periodically applied to the preliminary shaped monofilament in the spinning tunnel to reduce the temperature of the impacted area to 70~80℃ within 20~50ms. After that, the monofilament coming out of the spinning tunnel is successively bundled, stretched and shaped, oiled and wound to obtain polyester dynamic profiled yarn. The application of cold air impact is achieved through a single-filament cold air dynamic irregular nozzle system installed in the spinning channel; The monofilament cold air dynamic irregular nozzle system includes a nozzle module and a control system. The control system includes a solenoid valve, a nozzle switch controller, and a cold air pressure regulating valve. The nozzle module is composed of multiple nozzles, each of which is used to apply cold air impact to a monofilament. Each nozzle has 4 or 6 air outlets evenly distributed in a ring, and the air outlets face the circumference of the monofilament. A solenoid valve is installed on the pipe corresponding to each air outlet, and all solenoid valves are connected to the nozzle switch controller via cables. All nozzles are connected to a main air inlet pipe via air pipes, and a cold air pressure regulating valve is installed at the inlet of the main air inlet pipe. Applying cold air impact periodically means first opening two opposite air outlets to simultaneously impact the monofilament with cold air for 20-50 ms, then switching to three air outlets to simultaneously impact the monofilament with cold air for 20-50 ms, and repeating the cold air impact process alternately; when three air outlets simultaneously impact the monofilament with cold air, the angle between the air outlet directions of two adjacent air outlets shall not be less than 90°.

2. The method for preparing a garment fabric with both breathability and warmth retention properties according to claim 1, characterized in that, In each cycle along the length direction of the polyester dynamic profiled yarn, the ratio of the lengths corresponding to the flat cross-section and the triangular cross-section is 1~2.5:1~2.

5.

3. The method for preparing a garment fabric with both breathability and warmth retention properties according to claim 2, characterized in that, The breathable zone has an air permeability of ≥600mm / s and a thermal insulation coefficient of ≤0.5clo; the thermal insulation zone has an air permeability of ≤200mm / s and a thermal insulation coefficient of ≥0.9clo.

4. The method for preparing a garment fabric with both breathability and warmth retention properties according to claim 1, characterized in that, The diameter of the spinneret orifice is 0.05~0.3mm; the temperature of the polyester melt is 280~300℃; and the spinning speed is 10~18m / min.

5. The method for preparing a garment fabric with both breathability and warmth retention properties according to claim 4, characterized in that, The diameter of the air outlet hole on each nozzle is 0.05~0.2mm, and the diameter of the wire inlet hole of the nozzle for the monofilament to pass through is 0.06~0.6mm.

6. The method for preparing a garment fabric with both breathability and warmth retention properties according to claim 5, characterized in that, Initial cooling uses annular or side-blowing cooling with a cooling air temperature of 20-30℃ and a cooling air velocity of 0.8-1.5m / s.

7. The method for preparing a garment fabric with both breathability and warmth retention properties according to claim 6, characterized in that, The nozzle module is 30-80cm high from the annular or side-blowing area.

8. The method for preparing a garment fabric with both breathability and warmth retention properties according to claim 1, characterized in that, The weight of clothing fabric that combines breathability and warmth is 100~150g / m². 2 .