Cashmere-like cotton ammonia fabric, preparation method, processing system and application thereof
By pre-treating, brushing, and combing the cotton-ammonia fabric, combined with low-temperature and low-tension treatment, short, dense, soft fleece and long, soft, slightly crimped fleece layers are formed. This solves the problem that existing cotton-ammonia fabrics cannot achieve the texture and performance of natural cashmere, and realizes the preparation of efficient and environmentally friendly cashmere-like cotton-ammonia fabric.
Patent Information
- Authority / Receiving Office
- CN · China
- Patent Type
- Applications(China)
- Current Assignee / Owner
- SHANGHAI YUZHAOLIN BRAND MANAGEMENT CO LTD
- Filing Date
- 2026-06-09
- Publication Date
- 2026-07-21
AI Technical Summary
Existing technologies struggle to achieve the ultra-fine feel, composite fleece layer structure, high loft, high warmth retention, excellent pilling resistance, and environmental friendliness of natural cashmere without compromising the elasticity and durability of cotton-ammonia stretch fabrics.
By pre-treating, brushing, combing, trimming, venturi airflow beating and shaping the cotton-ammonia fabric, the length and fineness of the pile are controlled. Each step is carried out under low temperature and low tension to form short, dense, soft pile and long, soft, slightly crimped pile layers, combined with a low temperature and low energy consumption processing system.
A cashmere-like cotton-ammonia fabric with a soft, smooth feel, high loft, excellent warmth retention, and good pilling resistance was prepared. It is also environmentally friendly and suitable for continuous industrial production.
Abstract
Description
Technical Field
[0001] This invention belongs to the field of textile technology and relates to a cashmere-like cotton-ammonia fabric, its preparation method, processing system and application. Background Technology
[0002] As the second skin of the human body, the comfort, skin-friendliness, and functionality of intimate apparel have become core necessities in the context of consumption upgrading. Natural cashmere is currently the finest and softest known natural animal protein fiber, with a diameter of only 15-19 μm, smooth scale edges, hollow cross-section, natural micro-curl, pearl-like soft luster, and excellent warmth retention and resilience. It is widely regarded as the "gold standard" for high-end intimate textiles. However, due to factors such as the long breeding cycle of goats, extremely low cashmere yield, high harvesting difficulty, and resource scarcity, the global annual production of natural cashmere is less than 20,000 tons, and the price of raw materials has long remained in the range of 2,000-5,000 yuan / kg, making it difficult to achieve mass popularization and limiting it to a very small high-end luxury market.
[0003] To meet the huge demand in the mass market for high-quality intimate apparel, cotton-spandex stretch knit fabric has taken a dominant position in the current intimate apparel market due to its excellent moisture absorption and breathability, moderate weight, good stretch recovery, and cost advantage of only 1 / 20 to 1 / 10 that of natural cashmere. It is widely used in underwear, loungewear, thermal wear, T-shirts, children's clothing, and bedding. This fabric, with cotton fibers as the main body and spandex filaments providing an elastic framework, theoretically combines the skin-friendly properties of natural fibers with the wearing comfort of stretch fabrics, making it the most promising alternative to natural cashmere.
[0004] However, existing technologies for finishing cotton-spandex stretch fabrics to mimic cashmere typically employ traditional processes such as high-temperature setting, high-tension stretching, coarse sanding, strong brushing, and chemical resin finishing. These processes have a series of insurmountable technical defects, resulting in the following fundamental differences between the final product and natural cashmere in terms of feel, structure, and performance: (1) The pile layer is coarse and hard, and the touch is itchy: Conventional brushing often uses coarse sand rollers below 800# and high speed and high tension process to form a pile diameter of 25~50 μm, which is significantly higher than the 15~19 μm of natural cashmere. At the same time, the intense mechanical action causes the cotton fiber scale layer to be severely damaged, the edges to be rough, and the coefficient of friction to increase. The pile surface feels stiff, rough and itchy, lacking the soft, smooth and delicate feel of cashmere.
[0005] (2) Spandex heat damage and irreversible loss of elasticity: In order to achieve dimensional stability, the conventional molding temperature is generally ≥185℃, which is much higher than the glass transition temperature of spandex (120~140℃). This leads to the breakage of spandex molecular chains, destruction of cross-linking networks, and collapse of elastic skeleton. The elasticity retention rate is ≤75%, and the tensile recovery rate drops to 60~70%. The fabric becomes hard, tight, slow to recover, and easily deformed, which seriously weakens the core advantages of cotton-spandex elastic fabric.
[0006] (3) The pile structure is simple and the fluffiness and warmth are insufficient: the existing process can only form a single layer, disordered and easily flattened short pile structure. It lacks the unique composite layer structure of "short dense soft pile + long soft micro-curled pile" of natural cashmere. The pile fluffiness is ≤5mm, the resilience is ≤75%, the air storage capacity and thermal resistance are significantly low, and the warmth performance is only 50~60% of that of natural cashmere.
[0007] (4) Easy to pill, easy to shed, poor washability: Under the action of high temperature and strong mechanical force, the fiber strength decreases, the hair is seriously tangled and the cohesion is weak, resulting in a pilling resistance level of ≤3. After multiple washes, there are common problems such as pilling, shedding, lint, and pile layer hardening. The service life is only 1 / 2 to 1 / 3 of that of high-quality fabrics.
[0008] (5) Poor process adaptability and low quality stability: Existing imitation cashmere processes are mostly developed for chemical fiber fabrics such as pure polyester, acrylic, and viscose. They have not been systematically optimized for the moisture and heat sensitivity, heat shrinkage characteristics and elastic recovery requirements of cotton-ammonia elastic fabrics, resulting in a narrow process window, coarse parameters, large batch-to-batch quality fluctuations, and great difficulty in industrial replication.
[0009] (6) High environmental pressure and high energy consumption: High temperature setting and the use of a large number of chemical auxiliaries lead to high energy consumption, high COD wastewater discharge and risks of heavy metal and formaldehyde residues, making it difficult to meet the development requirements of green, low-carbon and sustainable textiles.
[0010] In the field of cashmere-like technology, the industry currently relies mainly on methods such as synthetic fiber cashmere imitation, cotton blend coarse brushing, conventional brushing and finishing, resin softening, and high-temperature setting modification. While synthetic fiber methods can control fineness and cost, their skin-friendliness, moisture absorption and breathability, and antistatic properties are far inferior to natural fibers, failing to meet the requirements for close-fitting clothing. Cotton blends and conventional brushing methods generally suffer from defects such as coarse and stiff pile, damaged elasticity, easy pilling, and shedding. Although resin and chemical finishing can improve the feel in the short term, they have problems such as a fake slippery feel, poor washability, and high environmental risks, and none of them can achieve the multi-scale microstructure and composite pile effect of natural cashmere.
[0011] In summary, current technologies cannot simultaneously achieve the ultra-fine feel, composite fleece layer structure, high loft, high warmth retention, excellent pilling resistance, and environmental friendliness of natural cashmere-grade fabrics without compromising their elasticity and durability. The industry urgently needs to develop a method for preparing cashmere-like cotton-ammonia fabrics to solve these technical problems. Summary of the Invention
[0012] To address the shortcomings of existing technologies, the present invention aims to provide a cashmere-like cotton-ammonia fabric, its preparation method, processing system, and applications. The preparation method involves pre-treating, brushing, combing, trimming, Venturi airflow beating, and shaping the cotton-ammonia fabric sequentially. By rationally combining these steps and precisely controlling the length and fineness of the nap after brushing and the curvature of the nap after Venturi airflow beating, the resulting cashmere-like cotton-ammonia fabric possesses an ultra-fine nap layer, slightly curled nap, softness, fluffiness, anti-pilling, and anti-folding properties. Furthermore, the fabric exhibits high elasticity, and its feel, warmth, and luster closely resemble natural cashmere. It also boasts advantages such as low cost, high efficiency, environmental friendliness, and suitability for continuous industrial production.
[0013] To achieve this objective, the present invention adopts the following technical solution: In a first aspect, the present invention provides a method for preparing a cashmere-like cotton-ammonia fabric, the method comprising: at a temperature ≤130℃ (e.g., 130℃, 125℃, 120℃, 115℃, 110℃, 105℃, 100℃, 90℃, 80℃, 70℃, 60℃, or 50℃, etc.), and with a warp tension of the cotton-ammonia fabric ≤190 N / m (e.g., 190 N / m, 180 N / m, 170 N / m, 160 N / m, 150 N / m, 145 N / m, 140 N / m, 135 N / m, 130 N / m, 125 N / m, 120 N / m, 115 N / m, 110 N / m, 105 N / m, or 100 N / m). Under conditions such as N / m, the cotton-ammonia fabric is pretreated, brushed, combed, trimmed, venturi airflow beated and shaped in sequence to obtain the imitation cashmere cotton-ammonia fabric. The brushed cotton-ammonia fabric has a short pile layer on one side with a pile fineness of 15-19 μm (e.g., 16 μm, 16.5 μm, 17 μm, 17.5 μm, 18 μm, 18.5 μm or 19 μm, etc.) and a pile length of 0.3-0.8 mm (e.g., 0.3 mm, 0.4 mm, 0.5 mm, 0.6 mm, 0.7 mm or 0.8 mm, etc.) and a long pile layer on the other side with a pile fineness of 15-19 μm (e.g., 15 μm, 15.5 μm, 16 μm, 16.5 μm, 17 μm, 17.5 μm or 18 μm, etc.) and a pile length of 1-1.5 mm (e.g., 1 mm, 1.1 mm, 1.2 mm, 1.3 mm, 1.4 mm or 1.5 mm, etc.). After being patted by the Venturi airflow, the curvature of the pile in the pile layer on both sides of the cotton-ammonia fabric is independently 5~10° / mm, for example, 5° / mm, 6° / mm, 7° / mm, 8° / mm, 9° / mm or 10° / mm.
[0014] It should be noted that the phrase "under the conditions of temperature ≤130℃ and radial tension of cotton-spandex fabric ≤190 N / m, the cotton-spandex fabric is subjected to pretreatment, napping, combing, trimming, Venturi airflow beating and setting in sequence to obtain the imitation cashmere cotton-spandex fabric" refers to the fact that the processing temperature of the six process steps of pretreatment, napping, combing, trimming, Venturi airflow beating and setting is ≤130℃, and the warp tension of the cotton-spandex fabric is kept ≤190 N / m in these six process steps. That is, the preparation method is carried out at the above-mentioned low temperature (≤130℃) and low tension (≤190 N / m).
[0015] The method for preparing the imitation cashmere cotton-ammonia fabric provided by this invention involves pre-treating, brushing, combing, trimming, Venturi airflow beating, and shaping the cotton-ammonia greige fabric in sequence to obtain the imitation cashmere cotton-ammonia fabric. All six core steps are carried out at a temperature ≤130℃ and a warp tension of the cotton-ammonia greige fabric ≤190 N / m, i.e., the entire process is conducted at low temperature and low tension, ensuring gentle operation and preserving the high elasticity of the cotton-ammonia greige fabric. This results in a fabric with good elastic recovery, comfortable wear, and no deformation. Simultaneously, by limiting the brushing process, a short pile layer with a pile fineness of 15~19 μm and a pile length of 0.3~0.8 mm is formed on one side of the brushed cotton-ammonia greige fabric, while the other side forms a pile fineness of 15~19 μm and a pile length of 1~1.5 mm. The long pile layer of mm ensures that the fineness of the pile on both sides of the fabric is completely consistent with that of natural cashmere, and forms a composite pile layer of short, dense, soft pile and long, soft, slightly curly pile. The microstructure is consistent with that of natural cashmere. After being patted with a limited Venturi airflow, the curvature of the pile in the pile layer on both sides of the cotton-ammonia fabric is 5~10 ° / mm, and the hairs form natural micro-curls, which are long-lasting fluffy, resistant to flattening, have good resilience, and excellent warmth retention, which fully meet the core characteristics of natural cashmere.
[0016] The preparation method provided by this invention produces a cashmere-like cotton-ammonia fabric with a soft and smooth feel, gentle luster, high loft, excellent warmth retention, anti-pilling properties, and washability. The fabric surface is smooth and wrinkle-free, and the dimensions are stable. It can replace natural cashmere. Furthermore, the preparation method provided by this invention is low-temperature and low-energy consumption, easy to treat wastewater, low-carbon and environmentally friendly, allows for continuous production, high efficiency, low cost, stable quality, and is easy to scale up.
[0017] In this invention, there are no special requirements for the type of cotton-spandex greige fabric; it can be either knitted or woven, and can be plain or twill weave. However, in order to ensure that the resulting imitation cashmere cotton-spandex greige fabric better meets the elasticity and comfort requirements of close-fitting clothing, the following preferred limitations are made on the cotton-spandex greige fabric: Preferably, the cotton yarn content in the cotton-ammonia fabric is 92-98% by mass, such as 92%, 93%, 94%, 95%, 96%, 97%, or 98%.
[0018] Preferably, the spandex content in the cotton-spandex fabric is 2-8% by mass, such as 2%, 3%, 4%, 5%, 6%, 7%, or 8%.
[0019] Preferably, the areal density of the cotton-ammonia fabric is 210~230 g / m². 2 For example, 210 g / m 2 212 g / m 2 214 g / m 2 216 g / m 2 218 g / m2 220 g / m 2 222 g / m 2 224 g / m 2 226 g / m 2 228 g / m 2 Or 230 g / m 2 wait.
[0020] Preferably, the width of the cotton-ammonia fabric is 145-155 cm, such as 145 cm, 146 cm, 147 cm, 148 cm, 149 cm, 150 cm, 151 cm, 152 cm, 153 cm, 154 cm or 155 cm.
[0021] Preferably, the pretreatment includes the following steps: batching treatment, heat treatment, elastic pre-setting, cotton reactive dyeing, drying, and elastic protective setting of the cotton-ammonia fabric in sequence.
[0022] Preferably, the temperature of the mixing tank treatment is 50~70℃, for example, 50℃, 52℃, 54℃, 56℃, 58℃, 60℃, 62℃, 64℃, 66℃, 68℃, or 70℃. Limiting the mixing tank treatment temperature to 50~70℃ is far below the glass transition temperature of spandex (120℃), thereby completely avoiding swelling, hydrolysis, and damage to the spandex.
[0023] Preferably, the cylinder matching process takes 15 to 25 minutes, such as 15 minutes, 16 minutes, 17 minutes, 18 minutes, 19 minutes, 20 minutes, 21 minutes, 22 minutes, 23 minutes, 24 minutes, or 25 minutes.
[0024] Preferably, the slurry used in the mixing process comprises the following components: 2~2.5 g / L of degreasing agent, 1~1.5 g / L of tension leveling agent, and 0.5~1.0 g / L of dyeing leveling agent.
[0025] The solvent for the sizing agent used in the mixing process is water. The degreasing agent is a non-ionic type, free of phosphorus and alkali, and free of heavy metals. It can gently remove oil, sizing agents, waxes, and impurities from fabrics without damaging the natural scales of cotton fibers or the elastic network of spandex. The concentration of the degreasing agent can be 2 g / L, 2.1 g / L, 2.2 g / L, 2.3 g / L, 2.4 g / L, or 2.5 g / L, etc. The tension equalizing agent is a polyether-based tension equalizing agent, which can even out the warp and weft tension of the fabric, eliminate internal stress accumulated during weaving and winding, and prevent subsequent problems such as napping, wrinkling, and uneven elasticity. The concentration of the tension equalizing agent can be 1~1.5 g / L, for example, 1 g / L, 1.1 g / L, 1.2 g / L, 1.3 g / L, 1.4 g / L, or 1.5 g / L, etc. The leveling agent is a non-ionic leveling agent, which can improve the wettability of cotton fibers, enhance the uniformity of subsequent dyeing, and reduce color spots and color differences; the concentration of the leveling agent can be 0.6 g / L, 0.7 g / L, 0.8 g / L, 0.9 g / L or 1 g / L, etc.
[0026] In addition, there are no special restrictions on the liquor ratio and rotation speed of the cylinder processing. The liquor ratio can be 1:10 (fabric:water = 1 kg:10L), and the rotation speed is ≤20 rpm.
[0027] In this invention, the temperature of the mixing tank is much lower than the glass transition temperature of spandex (120°C), which can completely avoid the swelling, hydrolysis and damage of spandex. In addition, the sizing agents contained in the sizing agent are all environmentally friendly and low in irritation, and will not damage the fabric. After the mixing tank treatment, the fabric is clean, free of oil stains and impurities, has good wettability, uniform tension, no stress concentration, intact spandex, and initial improvement in softness.
[0028] Preferably, the temperature of the heat treatment is 70~80℃, such as 70℃, 72℃, 74℃, 76℃, 78℃ or 80℃.
[0029] Preferably, the heat treatment time is 20 to 30 minutes, such as 20 minutes, 21 minutes, 22 minutes, 23 minutes, 24 minutes, 25 minutes, 26 minutes, 27 minutes, 28 minutes, 29 minutes, or 30 minutes.
[0030] Preferably, the warp tension of the cotton-ammonia fabric during the heat treatment process is ≤120 N / m, such as 120 N / m, 110 N / m, 100 N / m, 90 N / m, 80 N / m, 70 N / m, 60 N / m or 50 N / m.
[0031] Furthermore, the heat treatment is carried out in hot air circulation with a wind speed ≤10 m / s.
[0032] In this invention, the temperature of the heat treatment is much lower than the glass transition temperature of cotton fibers (85~90℃) and much lower than the heat aging temperature of spandex (140℃), so there is no risk of heat damage. Low-temperature heating can slowly release the internal stress accumulated in the fabric during weaving, winding, stretching and storage, eliminate "stress memory", prevent shrinkage, wrinkling, deformation and uneven elasticity in subsequent processing, soften the amorphous region of cotton fibers, open the molecular chains, improve the plasticity of cotton fibers, make napping easier to process, make the hair easier to refine and less prone to breakage, and improve the hand feel of the fabric, improve the softness, smoothness and skin-friendliness of the fabric.
[0033] Preferably, the elasticity pre-setting temperature is 110~125℃, such as 110℃, 112℃, 114℃, 116℃, 120℃, or 124℃. This low-temperature range precisely avoids the heat damage temperature of spandex fibers (185℃), while conforming to the low-temperature setting adaptation range of cotton-spandex pre-fabricated fabric. This allows for the fixation and preliminary setting of cotton fiber stress without damaging the elasticity of the spandex fibers or disrupting the low-temperature modification effect of the fabric towards cashmere, ensuring that the original soft, supple, and skin-friendly texture of the fabric is not lost.
[0034] Preferably, the elastic shaping time is 45~60 s, such as 45 s, 47 s, 49 s, 51 s, 53 s, 55 s, 56 s, 57 s, 58 s, 59 s or 60 s.
[0035] Preferably, the warp tension of the cotton-spandex pre-setting fabric during the elastic setting process is 140~170 N / m, such as 140 N / m, 150 N / m, 155 N / m, 160 N / m, 165 N / m, or 170 N / m. This tension range is suitable for low-temperature setting conditions, and can accurately balance the width stability of the cotton-spandex pre-setting fabric with the elasticity retention effect of the spandex, avoiding excessive tension that would lead to excessive stretching of the spandex fibers, damage to the network structure, and loss of elasticity. At the same time, it prevents insufficient tension from causing uneven fabric width and loose pattern, ensuring that the finished fabric has uniform elasticity and regular shape.
[0036] In addition, the speed of the cotton-spandex pre-setting process can be 12~18 m / min (e.g., 12 m / min, 13 m / min, 14 m / min, 15 m / min, 16 m / min, 17 m / min or 18 m / min, etc.) to match the low temperature slow setting process; hot air circulation is used throughout the process, and the wind speed is maintained at 15~20 m / s to ensure that the hot air inside the equipment penetrates the fabric evenly, so that the fabric is heated evenly and the setting is highly consistent, avoiding uneven setting and hand feel caused by local temperature differences.
[0037] In this invention, the temperature of the elastic pre-setting is within the low-temperature setting range of cotton-spandex pre-fabricated fabric and is lower than the heat damage temperature of spandex (185°C). This allows the cotton to be set without damaging the spandex. At the same time, it is carried out under gentle tension, which can balance the stability of the fabric width and the retention of elasticity, prevent excessive stretching of the spandex, damage to the network, and loss of elasticity. It can also eliminate wrinkles on the fabric surface, improve its flatness, enhance its dimensional stability, and reduce its shrinkage rate. In addition, it can stabilize the fabric width, weight, weft skew, density, and elastic network, so that its elasticity retention rate is ≥95%.
[0038] Preferably, the temperature for reactive dyeing of cotton is 50~70℃, such as 50℃, 52℃, 54℃, 56℃, 58℃, 60℃, 62℃, 64℃, 66℃, 68℃ or 70℃.
[0039] Preferably, the cotton reactive dyeing time is 50-70 min, such as 50 min, 52 min, 54 min, 56 min, 58 min, 60 min, 62 min, 64 min, 66 min, 68 min, or 70 min.
[0040] Preferably, the pH value of the cotton reactive dyeing is 7-8, such as 7.1, 7.2, 7.4, 7.6, 7.8 or 8.
[0041] In addition, the dye used in the cotton reactive dyeing is a reactive dye, and the liquor ratio can be 1:10 (fabric:water = 1 kg:10L).
[0042] In this invention, the temperature of the reactive cotton dyeing is relatively low, and the pH value is neutral to weakly alkaline. This avoids the problems of hydrolysis of spandex fibers, molecular chain breakage, elasticity damage, and fabric embrittlement caused by strong alkali and high temperature. This makes the elasticity of the cotton-spandex fabric stable, with an elasticity retention rate of ≥93%. Furthermore, the reactive dyes used in reactive dyeing can covalently bond with cotton fibers through hydroxyl groups, resulting in high color fastness (dry rubbing ≥4, wet rubbing ≥3.5, sunlight ≥4), bright and uniform color, and no color difference.
[0043] Preferably, the process before drying further includes a step of centrifuging and dehydrating the cotton-ammonia fabric.
[0044] Preferably, the centrifugal dehydration speed is 800~1000 rpm, such as 800 rpm, 820 rpm, 840 rpm, 860 rpm, 880 rpm, 900 rpm, 920 rpm, 940 rpm, 960 rpm, 980 rpm or 1000 rpm.
[0045] Preferably, the centrifugal dehydration time is 5 to 8 minutes, such as 5 minutes, 5.5 minutes, 6 minutes, 6.5 minutes, 7 minutes, 7.5 minutes, or 8 minutes.
[0046] Preferably, the drying temperature is 115~120℃, such as 116℃, 117℃, 118℃, 119℃ or 120℃.
[0047] Preferably, the warp tension of the cotton-ammonia fabric during the drying process is ≤120 N / m, such as 120 N / m, 119 N / m, 118 N / m, 117 N / m, 116 N / m, 115 N / m, 114 N / m, 113 N / m, 112 N / m or 111 N / m, etc.
[0048] Preferably, the moisture content of the dried cotton-ammonia fabric is 8-10%, such as 8%, 8.2%, 8.4%, 8.6%, 8.8%, 9%, 9.2%, 9.4%, 9.6%, 9.8%, or 10%.
[0049] In addition, the drying process of the cotton-ammonia fabric can be carried out at a speed of 25 m / min, using hot air circulation with a wind speed of 12~15 m / s.
[0050] In this invention, the drying temperature is lower than the heat damage temperature of spandex fibers, which can prevent problems such as aging, loss of elasticity, and yellowing of the fabric from occurring. Furthermore, drying under extremely low tension can also avoid problems such as shrinkage of spandex fibers, fabric width shrinkage, wrinkling, uneven elasticity, and dimensional instability. The cotton-spandex fabric after the above drying process has a uniform moisture content, is soft and fluffy, smooth and wrinkle-free, with intact spandex, retains ≥92% elasticity, and has a delicate hand feel. It can prevent cotton fibers from becoming brittle, locally stiff, and having an uneven hand feel.
[0051] Preferably, the temperature for setting the elastic protection is 115~120℃, such as 115℃, 116℃, 117℃, 118℃, 119℃ or 120℃.
[0052] Preferably, the sizing agent used for elastic protective shaping includes the following components: 3~3.5 g / L spandex protectant, 5.0~6.0 g / L silicone softener, 1~1.5 g / L smoother, and 0.5~1.0 g / L antistatic agent.
[0053] The solvent for the elastic protective slurry is water, and the spandex protective agent is a polyether polyurethane spandex protective agent, which can physically coat the spandex fiber and form a flexible protective film on the surface of the spandex fiber. This reduces mechanical friction during subsequent brushing, combing, and patting processes, isolates high temperatures and chemical additives, prevents spandex breakage and elasticity damage, protects its elastic network, and ensures that its elasticity retention rate is ≥91%. The amount of the spandex protective agent can be 3 g / L, 3.1 g / L, 3.2 g / L, 3.3 g / L, 3.4 g / L, or 3.5 g / L, etc. The silicone softener is specifically an amino-modified silicone oil, which can penetrate into the gaps between cotton fibers, reduce the fiber friction coefficient, and give the fabric an extremely soft, smooth, delicate, skin-friendly, and low-friction feel. The amount of the silicone softener can be 5 g / L, 5.2 g / L, 5.4 g / L, 5.6 g / L, 5.8 g / L, or 6 g / L, etc. The smoothing agent is a fatty acid ester smoothing agent, which can effectively improve the smoothness of the fabric, make the fabric gloss soft, reduce static electricity, and resist pilling. The amount of the smoothing agent can be 1 g / L, 1.1 g / L, 1.2 g / L, 1.3 g / L, 1.4 g / L, or 1.5 g / L, etc. The antistatic agent is specifically a nonionic antistatic agent, which can reduce the surface resistance of the fabric, reduce static electricity, and improve wearing comfort. The dosage of the antistatic agent can be 0.5 g / L, 0.6 g / L, 0.7 g / L, 0.8 g / L, 0.9 g / L, or 1 g / L, etc.
[0054] In addition, the speed of the cotton-ammonia fabric in the elastic protective shaping process can be 25 m / min, and the warp tension can be ≤120 N / m.
[0055] In this invention, the elastic protective shaping can make the fabric soft, smooth, delicate and skin-friendly, with a soft luster, no static electricity, intact spandex, elasticity retention rate ≥91%, low stress base, and strong plasticity.
[0056] In summary, the pretreatment process of the cotton-spandex greige fabric is completed through a series of steps, including batching, heat treatment, elastic pre-setting, cotton reactive dyeing, drying, and elastic protective setting. The pretreated cotton-spandex greige fabric has an elasticity retention rate of ≥91% compared to the untreated fabric, and possesses a soft, smooth, delicate, skin-friendly, and low-stress hand feel. It also has excellent plasticity, is easy to refine by napping, and the fibers are not easy to break.
[0057] Preferably, the sanding process specifically includes the following steps: Two to three pairs of tandem abrasive rollers are used to finely grind one side of the pretreated cotton-ammonia fabric to form a short pile layer with a pile fineness of 15 to 19 μm and a pile length of 0.3 to 0.8 mm. Four napping machines connected in series are used to sequentially nap the other side of the pretreated cotton-ammonia fabric to form a long nap surface with a nap fineness of 15~19 μm and a nap length of 1~1.5 mm, thus completing the napping step.
[0058] Preferably, the distance between the abrasive roller and the pressure roller in each abrasive roller is 0.3~0.8 mm, for example, 0.3 mm, 0.4 mm, 0.5 mm, 0.6 mm, 0.7 mm or 0.8 mm.
[0059] Preferably, the abrasive roller is a 1200~1500# ceramic / emery abrasive roller. The particle size on the surface of the above-mentioned 1200~1500# ceramic / emery abrasive roller is 8~12 μm, sharp and uniform, wear-resistant, free of coarse particles and burrs, avoiding scratching the fabric and producing coarse and hard fuzz.
[0060] Preferably, the rotational speed of the abrasive roller in the abrasive roller is 1200~1400 rpm, such as 1220 rpm, 1250 rpm, 1300 rpm, 1350 rpm, or 1400 rpm. The abrasive roller has a high rotational speed, gently scrapes, and precisely peels off the tips of the microfibers without damaging the fiber body or the spandex.
[0061] Preferably, the speed of the cotton-ammonia fabric during the fine grinding process is 12-14 m / min, such as 12 m / min, 12.5 m / min, 13 m / min, 13.5 m / min, or 14 m / min. The moderate speed of the abrasive roller ensures uniform abrasion, without missed areas or over-abrasion.
[0062] Preferably, the warp tension of the cotton-spandex fabric during the fine grinding process is 75~85 N / m, such as 75 N / m, 77 N / m, 79 N / m, 81 N / m, 83 N / m, or 85 N / m. The brushing is performed under low tension conditions, which protects the fabric's elasticity, prevents stretching deformation, ensures the spandex fiber's elasticity retention rate is ≥94%, and results in a smooth, wrinkle-free fabric surface without stretching deformation.
[0063] In this invention, during the fine grinding process, ultra-fine abrasive rollers rotate at high speed, gently scraping the surface of the cotton fibers on the fabric, precisely peeling off the tips of 16~19 μm ultra-fine cotton fibers without damaging the fiber body or the spandex. At the same time, the peeling depth is precisely controlled to generate 0.3~0.8 mm short, dense, upright soft fibers with high density, uniformity, uprightness, delicacy, and soft luster. The fabric operates under low tension, retaining ≥94% of the spandex elasticity, and the fabric surface is flat, wrinkle-free, and free from stretching deformation.
[0064] Preferably, the four napping machines connected in series include napping machine A, napping machine B, napping machine C, and napping machine D. The gap between the needle roller of napping machine A and the fabric surface is 0.05~0.1 mm (e.g., 0.05 mm, 0.06 mm, 0.07 mm, 0.08 mm, 0.09 mm, or 0.1 mm, etc.); the gap between the needle roller of napping machine B and the fabric surface is -0.05~0 mm (e.g., -0.05 mm, -0.04 mm, -0.03 mm, -0.02 mm, -0.01 mm, or 0 mm, etc.); the gap between the needle roller of napping machine C and the fabric surface is -0.1~-0.06 mm (e.g., -0.1 mm, -0.08 mm, -0.07 mm, or -0.06 mm, etc.); and the gap between the needle roller of napping machine D and the fabric surface is -0.05~0 mm (e.g., -0.05 mm, -0.06 mm, -0.06 mm, etc.). mm, -0.04 mm, -0.03 mm, -0.02 mm, -0.01 mm or 0 mm, etc.).
[0065] It should be noted that in the gap between the needle roller of the above-mentioned napping machine and the fabric surface, "0" means just touching the fabric surface, negative numbers mean pressing into the fabric surface, and positive numbers mean leaving the fabric surface.
[0066] Preferably, the outer diameter of the needle tip of the napping machine is 0.02~0.03 mm (e.g., 0.02 mm, 0.022 mm, 0.024 mm, 0.026 mm, 0.028 mm, or 0.03 mm, etc.), and the needle density is 1200~1500 needles / cm². 2 (e.g., 1200 pieces / cm) 2 1250 pieces / cm 2 1300 pieces / cm 2 1350 pieces / cm 2 1400 pieces / cm 2 1450 pieces / cm 2 Or 1500 pieces / cm 2 (etc.). The needles of the napping machine are ultra-fine, sharp, smooth, with soft, high-density hooks, no burrs, and do not damage the fabric or snag.
[0067] Preferably, the speed of the fabric during the napping process is 12-14 m / min, such as 12.2 m / min, 12.4 m / min, 12.6 m / min, 12.8 m / min, 13 m / min, 13.5 m / min, 13.8 m / min, or 14 m / min. This moderate speed ensures even napping, without missed areas or over-nailing.
[0068] Preferably, the warp tension of the cotton-spandex greige fabric during the napping process is 70~80 N / m, for example, 70 N / m, 72 N / m, 74 N / m, 76 N / m, 78 N / m, or 80 N / m. Nailing under this low tension protects the elasticity, prevents stretching deformation, and avoids wrinkling of the fabric surface.
[0069] In this invention, the napping can form a long, soft, plush base with a fineness of 15-19 μm, a length of 1-1.5 mm, slight curvature, fluffiness, softness, neat orientation, no coarse or stiff hairs, and no itching sensation; the overall hair fineness is 15-19 μm, the pass rate is ≥95%, the elasticity retention rate is ≥92%, and the fabric surface is flat.
[0070] In the napping process provided by this invention, one side of the cotton-spandex greige fabric is first finely ground. By controlling the distance between the sanding roller and the pressing roller in the napping roller to be 0.3~0.8 mm, a short pile surface with a pile fineness of 15~19 μm and a pile length of 0.3~0.8 mm is formed on one side of the cotton-spandex greige fabric. This results in a short, dense, upright, soft pile with high density, uniformity, uprightness, fineness, and soft luster. Then, four napping machines connected in series are used to sequentially nap the other side of the pre-treated cotton-spandex greige fabric. This progressive napping process precisely refines the pile and avoids damage from a single strong pull. The napping machine A is used for pre-pulling / light napping, which can peel off the surface cotton fibers to generate coarse pile with a fineness of 20~25 μm. This initial napping is done without damage. The napping machine B is used for napping / initial stretching, refining the coarse pile to 17~19 μm. μm, removing coarse and stiff fibers, softening scales, and improving the touch. The main function of the napping machine C is to pull / determine the pile height, specifically through gentle mechanical kneading, so that the hairs are initially bent and the fineness is stabilized at 16~19 μm, improving softness and reducing stiffness. The function of the napping machine D is to trim / fix the pile height, unify the direction of the hair arrangement, stabilize the fineness at 15~19 μm, control the length at 1~1.5mm, ensure neat orientation, and improve fluffiness. After the above progressive napping treatment, a long soft pile base is formed on the other side of the cotton-spandex fabric, which is slightly bent, fluffy, soft, neatly oriented, free of coarse and stiff hairs, and has no itchy feeling, and the fabric surface is flat.
[0071] Preferably, the combing is performed using ultrasonic multi-stage combing or hot-cold pulse airflow combing.
[0072] In this invention, the combing can improve the fluffiness of the down layer, soften the hair, orient the hair, form micro-curls, reduce tangling, and prevent flattening, thus eliminating the problems of tangling, flattening, and messiness of the hair after brushing. Among them, the ultrasonic multi-stage combing uses ultrasonic-assisted combing, and the high-frequency vibration softens the hair, reduces friction, protects the spandex, and improves softness. It is elastic, delicate and soft, and moderately priced. The hot and cold pulse airflow combing has a high-end cashmere feel, significant micro-curls, and high fluffiness.
[0073] Preferably, the ultrasonic multi-stage combing includes the steps of coarse combing, medium combing, and fine combing sequentially on the brushed cotton-ammonia fabric.
[0074] Preferably, the coarsening is performed under ultrasonic conditions at a frequency of 25-35 kHz (e.g., 25 kHz, 26 kHz, 27 kHz, 28 kHz, 29 kHz, 30 kHz, 31 kHz, 33 kHz, or 35 kHz). The aforementioned ultrasonic frequencies represent high-frequency micro-vibrations without mechanical hard contact.
[0075] Preferably, the needle density of the coarse comb is 70-90 needles / cm. 2 For example, 70 stitches / cm 2 73 stitches / cm 2 76 stitches / cm 2 79 stitches / cm 2 81 stitches / cm 2 83 stitches / cm 2 85 stitches / cm 2 Or 90 stitches / cm 2 The needle density mentioned above is medium, the needle teeth are soft and do not damage the hair, and it is equipped with an ultrasonic vibration unit for high-frequency micro-vibration without mechanical hard contact.
[0076] Preferably, the ultrasonic power of the coarse combing process is 800~1000 W, such as 800 W, 820 W, 840 W, 860 W, 880 W, 900 W, 930 W, 960 W or 1000 W.
[0077] Preferably, the speed of the cotton-ammonia greige fabric during the carding process is 12~14 m / min, for example, 12 m / min, 12.5 m / min, 13 m / min, 13.5 m / min or 14 m / min.
[0078] Preferably, the warp tension of the cotton-ammonia greige fabric during the carding process is 80~90 N / m, for example, 80 N / m, 82 N / m, 84 N / m, 86 N / m, 88 N / m or 90 N / m, etc.
[0079] In this invention, the coarse combing is performed under high-frequency ultrasonic conditions. High-frequency ultrasonic waves can generate micro-airflow impact and induce fiber resonance, gently separating and polishing the tangled hairs, untangling them, fluffing them up, reducing friction, softening the tips of the hairs, eliminating itching, and causing the hairs to initially oriented and arrange themselves, combing the messy pile layer, making the fabric surface uniform and initially improving its fluffiness. At the same time, the ultrasonic waves are low-temperature and do not cause heat damage, mechanical hard friction, and the spandex remains intact and the elasticity is stable and intact.
[0080] Preferably, the needle density of the comb is 110-130 needles / cm.2 For example, 110 stitches / cm 2 112 stitches / cm 2 114 stitches / cm 2 116 stitches / cm 2 118 stitches / cm 2 120 stitches / cm 2 123 stitches / cm 2 126 stitches / cm 2 129 stitches / cm 2 Or 130 stitches / cm 2 The comb has a high density, with fine teeth for precise combing and refining of the hair.
[0081] Preferably, the temperature of the comb is 40~50℃, such as 42℃, 44℃, 46℃, 48℃ or 50℃. The relatively low temperature softens the cotton fibers and enhances their flexibility.
[0082] Preferably, the comb is bidirectional, alternating between forward and reverse directions to eliminate directional deviation.
[0083] Preferably, the speed of the combing process for the cotton-ammonia fabric is 12-14 m / min, such as 12 m / min, 12.5 m / min, 13 m / min, 13.5 m / min or 14 m / min.
[0084] Preferably, the warp tension of the cotton-ammonia greige fabric during the carding process is 85~95 N / m, for example, 85 N / m, 87 N / m, 89 N / m, 91 N / m, 93 N / m or 95 N / m.
[0085] In this invention, the comb is a high-density needle cloth fine comb that can evenly disperse the hair, stabilize the hair fineness to 15~19 μm, reduce the difference in length, refine the hair, improve the fineness, soften the cotton fibers, open up the amorphous area, enhance the hair's flexibility, improve bending plasticity, make it soft and smooth, reduce stiffness, and ensure that the pile layer is uniform and neat, without directional deviation, and that the fabric surface is flat and has a soft luster.
[0086] Preferably, the needle density of the comb is 190-210 needles / cm. 2 For example, 190 stitches / cm 2 192 stitches / cm 2 196 stitches / cm 2 198 stitches / cm 2 200 stitches / cm 2 203 stitches / cm 2 206 stitches / cm 2 Or 210 stitches / cm 2The comb described features ultra-high needle density, extremely fine needles, precise orientation, and soft, smooth hair.
[0087] Preferably, the speed of the combing process for cotton-ammonia greige fabric is 12~14 m / min, for example, 12 m / min, 12.5 m / min, 13 m / min, 13.5 m / min or 14 m / min.
[0088] Preferably, the warp tension of the combed cotton-ammonia fabric is 85~95 N / m, such as 85 N / m, 87 N / m, 89 N / m, 91 N / m, 93 N / m or 95 N / m.
[0089] In this invention, the combing is a high-density card cloth for precise combing, which directionally arranges the hairs, making them soft, neat, upright, and less prone to falling over. It also enhances the resistance to falling over, further refines the tips of the hairs, and provides an extremely soft, delicate, smooth, and skin-friendly feel without any stiffness or itching. In addition, it can eliminate local dense / sparse areas of the nap, making the fabric surface uniform, flat, with a soft luster and a high-end texture.
[0090] Preferably, the hot and cold pulsed airflow combing includes sequentially performing hot airflow combing, cold airflow shaping combing, and pulsed airflow vibration combing on the brushed cotton-ammonia fabric. Through the above-mentioned hot airflow combing, cold airflow shaping combing, and pulsed airflow vibration combing, the fabric can achieve a natural cashmere-like micro-curl, long-lasting fluffiness, anti-collapse properties, and excellent warmth retention.
[0091] Preferably, the temperature of the hot air combing is 120~130℃, such as 120℃, 122℃, 124℃, 126℃, 128℃, or 130℃. The temperature of the hot air combing is lower than the conventional combing temperature and lower than the spandex heat aging temperature (140℃), protecting the elasticity and preventing heat damage.
[0092] Preferably, the airflow velocity for the hot air combing is 15~20 m / s, such as 15 m / s, 16 m / s, 17 m / s, 18 m / s, 19 m / s, or 20 m / s. The hot air combing uses an annular nozzle to uniformly spray hot air, ensuring complete coverage without dead angles.
[0093] Preferably, the warp tension of the cotton-ammonia fabric during the hot air combing process is 80~100 N / m, such as 80 N / m, 85 N / m, 90 N / m, 95 N / m or 100 N / m.
[0094] In this invention, the hot air combing uses low-temperature hot air, which can soften cotton fibers, open up amorphous areas, enhance crimp plasticity, improve fluffiness, and make the fabric soft and smooth. The hot air impacts the pile layer, which fluffs and separates the fibers, removes tangles, oriented and arranges them, makes the density uniform, and makes the fabric surface flat. The temperature is precisely controlled and is lower than the critical temperature for thermal aging of spandex (140°C), protecting the elasticity and preventing heat damage.
[0095] Preferably, the temperature of the cold airflow shaping and combing is 15~20℃, such as 15℃, 16℃, 17℃, 18℃, 19℃ or 20℃.
[0096] Preferably, the air pressure for the cold airflow shaping and combing is 0.3~0.4 MPa, for example, 0.3 MPa, 0.32 MPa, 0.34 MPa, 0.36 MPa, 0.38 MPa or 0.4 MPa, etc., and uniform spraying is used. Preferably, the warp tension of the cotton-ammonia fabric during the cold airflow shaping and carding process is 80~100 N / m, such as 80 N / m, 85 N / m, 90 N / m, 95 N / m or 100 N / m.
[0097] In this invention, the cold airflow shaping and combing is uniformly sprayed, which can quickly cool and soften the hair, making the hair instantly shape into a curved shape, forming a preliminary micro-curl with a curvature of 3~5° / mm, soft and smooth, reducing stiffness, and also reducing hair rigidity. The feel is soft, smooth, skin-friendly, low-friction, and non-itchy. At the same time, it can quickly stabilize the pile structure, improve anti-collapse, maintain fluffiness, drape well, and make the fabric surface flat.
[0098] Preferably, the frequency of the pulsed airflow vibration combing is 5~10 Hz, such as 5 Hz, 6 Hz, 7 Hz, 8 Hz, 9 Hz, or 10 Hz. Performing pulsed airflow vibration combing at these low frequencies results in gentle vibration and no damage.
[0099] Preferably, the peak air pressure of the pulsed airflow vibration combing is 0.5~0.6 MPa, such as 0.5 MPa, 0.52 MPa, 0.54 MPa, 0.56 MPa, 0.58 MPa, or 0.6 MPa. Intermittent injection and uniform impact are used.
[0100] Preferably, the warp tension of the cotton-ammonia fabric in the pulsed airflow vibration combing process is 80~100 N / m, such as 80 N / m, 85 N / m, 90 N / m, 95 N / m or 100 N / m.
[0101] In this invention, the pulsed airflow vibration combing adopts intermittent spraying and uniform impact. The pulsed airflow periodically impacts the cashmere layer, generating micro-vibrations. The 15~19 μm hairs are repeatedly bent, forming the micro-curled structure unique to natural cashmere (curvature of 5~10° / mm), which is long-lasting fluffy, anti-collapse, and has good resilience. This greatly increases the air storage capacity of the cashmere layer, making its warmth close to that of natural cashmere. It is lightweight, warm, and suitable for all seasons. In addition, the micro-vibration can reduce fiber entanglement, improve the anti-pilling level, and make it less prone to pilling, shedding, and washing.
[0102] In this invention, the cotton-ammonia fabric after the above combing treatment has a fluffy, soft, slightly curly, neatly oriented, tangle-free, and flattened texture. It has a soft, delicate, smooth, fluffy, and skin-friendly feel, and retains ≥90% of its elasticity compared to before combing.
[0103] In this invention, the trimming is performed only on one side of the long-staple layer of the cotton-ammonia fabric.
[0104] Preferably, a spiral precision shearing machine is used. This spiral precision shearing machine has sharp blades, stable rotation speed, high shearing accuracy, no burrs, does not damage the fabric, and does not snag. It is equipped with a blade spacing adjustment system, a height control system, and a low-tension conveying system.
[0105] Preferably, the blade spacing of the spiral precision shearing machine is 0.8~1 mm, such as 0.8 mm, 0.83 mm, 0.86 mm, 0.89 mm, 0.92 mm, 0.94 mm, 0.96 mm, or 1 mm. The above blade spacing allows for precise control of the shearing gap, ensuring no missed cuts and no over-cuts.
[0106] Preferably, the cutting angle of the spiral blade precision shearing machine is 35~40°, such as 35°, 36°, 37°, 38°, 39° or 40°. The above cutting angles ensure gentle shearing, without damaging the hair, without breakage, and without hard ends.
[0107] Preferably, the shearing height of the spiral precision shearing machine is 0.8~1.2 mm, for example, 0.8 mm, 0.9 mm, 1 mm, 1.1 mm, or 1.2 mm. The above shearing height allows for precise control of the pile height, with an error ≤0.1 mm, and ensures uniformity.
[0108] Preferably, the speed of the cotton-ammonia fabric during the trimming process is 12-14 m / min, such as 12 m / min, 12.5 m / min, 13 m / min, 13.5 m / min or 14 m / min.
[0109] Preferably, the warp tension of the cotton-ammonia fabric during the trimming process is 75~85 N / m, such as 75 N / m, 76 N / m, 77 N / m, 78 N / m, 79 N / m, 80 N / m, 81 N / m, 82 N / m, 83 N / m, 84 N / m or 85 N / m, etc.
[0110] In this invention, the precise trimming of the long pile layer of the cotton-spandex greige fabric ensures uniform pile height with an error of ≤0.1 mm, no unevenness, and a smooth and delicate appearance. It also unifies the length of the fibers, eliminating variations in length, messiness, and a neat orientation, resulting in a fine and uniform pile surface, soft luster, and a high-end texture. During the trimming process, the fabric tension is low, resulting in no loss of elasticity, intact spandex, a smooth and wrinkle-free fabric surface, and dimensional stability. It also helps remove a small amount of coarse and stiff fibers, further enhancing the soft and supple feel, skin-friendliness, and non-itchy sensation. After the above trimming, the pile height of the long pile layer of the cotton-spandex greige fabric is 0.8~1.2 mm. The cotton-spandex greige fabric has a fine and smooth appearance, neat orientation, soft luster, no variations in length, and a delicate, smooth, soft, and skin-friendly feel. Moreover, the elasticity retention rate is ≥90% compared to the untrimmed version.
[0111] Preferably, the Venturi airflow cashmere-like beating is performed using a Venturi effect air beating machine. This imparts to the fabric the core textures of natural cashmere: extreme softness, slight curl, lasting fluffiness, high warmth, anti-pilling, and anti-flushing. The entire process involves low-temperature, suspended beating with no hard mechanical contact, elastic protection, and minimal damage. It is suitable for elastic fabrics, operates at low temperatures, has low tension, and includes a three-section Venturi tube, a hot air circulation system, an airflow speed control system, a pressure stabilization system, and a suspended conveying system.
[0112] Preferably, the processing temperature of the Venturi effect air beater is 115~125℃, such as 115℃, 117℃, 119℃, 121℃, 123℃, or 125℃. This processing temperature is relatively low, below the heat damage temperature of spandex, protects elasticity, and prevents heat aging.
[0113] Preferably, the Venturi effect air beater includes an inlet section, a throat section, and an outlet section.
[0114] Preferably, the inlet speed of the Venturi effect air beater is 5~8 m / min, such as 5 m / min, 5.5 m / min, 6 m / min, 6.5 m / min, 7 m / min, 7.5 m / min, or 8 m / min. The relatively low inlet speed ensures slow and smooth feeding, avoids impact, and protects the fabric.
[0115] Preferably, the throat speed of the Venturi effect air beater is 15~20 m / min, such as 15 m / min, 16 m / min, 17 m / min, 18 m / min, 19 m / min, or 20 m / min. The relatively high throat speed allows for high-speed passage, enhanced beating, bending and kneading, and the formation of micro-curls.
[0116] Preferably, the outlet speed of the Venturi effect air beater is 10~12 m / min, such as 10 m / min, 10.3 m / min, 10.6 m / min, 10.9 m / min, 11 m / min, 11.5 m / min, or 12 m / min. This moderate outlet speed ensures medium-speed material output, stabilizes the felt layer, and prevents shrinkage and deformation.
[0117] Preferably, the airflow velocity of the Venturi effect air beater is 70~100 m / s, such as 70 m / s, 75 m / s, 80 m / s, 85 m / s, 90 m / s, 95 m / s, or 100 m / s. The airflow is a high-speed, gentle airflow, which can achieve efficient beating, uniform curling, and no damage.
[0118] Preferably, the internal pressure of the Venturi effect air beater is 0.7~0.8 atm, such as 0.7 atm, 0.72 atm, 0.74 atm, 0.76 atm, 0.78 atm, or 0.8 atm. The lower internal pressure achieves low-pressure levitation, reduces friction, protects the fabric, and stabilizes elasticity.
[0119] Preferably, the impact frequency of the Venturi effect air beater is 250-300 times / min, such as 2500 times / min, 260 times / min, 270 times / min, 280 times / min, 290 times / min, or 300 times / min. High-frequency, gentle beating produces uniform curling, lasting fluffiness, and no localized damage.
[0120] In this invention, through the above-mentioned Venturi airflow cashmere-making and beating steps, the cotton-ammonia fabric can achieve the following advantages: (1) Extreme softness: The 15~19 μm hairs are repeatedly bent, rubbed, softened, and the scales are softened, the coefficient of friction is reduced, and the touch reaches the soft and smooth level of natural cashmere, without stiffness, itching, and skin-friendly and hypoallergenic; (2) Micro-curl shaping: The hairs form stable and natural micro-curls (curvature of 5~10° / mm), which are completely consistent with the microstructure of natural cashmere, and are long-lasting fluffy, resistant to lodging, have good resilience, and are not easy to clump; (3) Long-lasting fluffy warmth: the fluffiness of the fleece layer is ≥7 mm, the resilience rate is ≥88%, the air storage capacity is greatly improved, and the thermal resistance is ≥0.16 m. 2• K / W, warmth close to natural cashmere, lightweight and warm, suitable for all seasons; (4) Anti-pilling + anti-flushing: the micro-curled structure makes the fleece layer less prone to falling, long-lasting fluffiness, good resilience, and less prone to caking; fiber entanglement is reduced and strength is improved, anti-pilling level ≥ 4, not prone to pilling, shedding, durable and washable, does not deform after multiple washes, and is not rough; (5) Soft luster + good drape: the feathers are neatly oriented, slightly curled, the scales are smooth, pearl-like soft luster, not dazzling, high-end texture, good drape, fits well, and does not feel bulky; (6) High elasticity retention + smooth fabric surface: low temperature throughout the process, suspended patting, no mechanical hard friction, elasticity retention rate ≥ 90%, spandex intact, smooth and wrinkle-free fabric surface, stable size, shrinkage rate ≤ 3%, comfortable to wear, not tight, and free to move.
[0121] Preferably, the shaping process is a three-stage shaping process, including a preheating stage, a shaping stage, and a cooling stage. This three-stage shaping process ensures gentle curing, protects elasticity, prevents high-temperature damage, and maintains stable texture.
[0122] Preferably, the setting process is carried out in a mild setting machine specifically designed for cashmere processing. This machine includes hot air circulation, precise temperature control (±1℃), controllable tension, speed linkage, a cold air cooling system, and a low-tension conveying system.
[0123] Preferably, the temperature of the preheating section is 95~105℃ (e.g., 95℃, 97℃, 99℃, 101℃, 103℃, or 105℃), and the time is 20~30 s (e.g., 20 s, 22 s, 24 s, 26 s, 28 s, or 30 s). The preheating section provides a slow, gradual temperature increase to prevent the fleece layer from collapsing due to sudden heat, thermal shock to the spandex, and wrinkling of the fabric surface.
[0124] Preferably, the temperature of the setting section is 115~120℃ (e.g., 115℃, 116℃, 117℃, 118℃, 119℃, or 120℃), and the time is 60~90 s (e.g., 60 s, 65 s, 70 s, 75 s, 80 s, 85 s, or 90 s). The temperature of the setting section is relatively low, below the heat damage temperature of spandex fibers, which not only locks in the micro-curl and fluffy structure of the pile layer, but also stabilizes the fabric width, weight, weft skew, and dimensions, protecting the elasticity of the spandex and ensuring an elasticity retention rate of ≥88%.
[0125] Preferably, the temperature of the cooling section is 25~30℃ (e.g., 25℃, 26℃, 27℃, 28℃, 29℃, or 30℃), and the time is 30~40 s (e.g., 30 s, 31 s, 32 s, 33 s, 34 s, 35 s, 36 s, 37 s, 38 s, 39 s, or 40 s). The cooling section uses cold air (25~30℃) for shaping, which can quickly cool and shape the pile, fix the form of the pile layer, prevent shrinkage and deformation, and improve dimensional stability.
[0126] Preferably, the speed of the cotton-ammonia fabric during the setting process is 20-25 m / min, for example, 20 m / min, 21 m / min, 22 m / min, 23 m / min, 24 m / min, or 25 m / min. This ensures uniform setting, no missed setting, and no over-setting.
[0127] Preferably, the warp tension of the cotton-spandex greige fabric during the setting process is 160~190 N / m, for example, 160 N / m, 170 N / m, 180 N / m, or 190 N / m. This provides gentle tension, balances dimensional stability and elasticity retention, and prevents excessive stretching of the spandex and elasticity loss.
[0128] In this invention, the cotton-ammonia fabric obtained by the shaping treatment has the following characteristics: (1) Locked pile structure: stable 15~19μm micro-curled pile layer, durable and washable, does not collapse after multiple washes, does not harden, does not become rough, does not shed, and has a lasting texture; (2) Stable dimensions: fixed fabric width, weight, weft skew, shrinkage rate ≤3%, excellent dimensional stability, does not deform after multiple washes, does not shrink, and does not stretch; (3) High elasticity retention: low temperature and gentle shaping, elasticity retention rate ≥88%, stretch recovery rate ≥85%, comfortable to wear, not tight, free movement, and lasting elasticity; (4) Stable hand feel and luster: maintains a soft and delicate hand feel, soft luster, no high temperature stiffness, yellowing, lasting texture, and high-end feel.
[0129] Preferably, the finalization process also includes a quality inspection step.
[0130] In this invention, the quality inspection requires strict full-item testing to ensure that all cashmere indicators, elasticity indicators, appearance and feel indicators, and safety indicators meet the standards, resulting in stable quality, good batch consistency, and traceability.
[0131] Secondly, the present invention provides a cashmere-like cotton-ammonia fabric, which is prepared by the preparation method described in the first aspect.
[0132] The present invention provides a cashmere-like cotton-ammonia fabric with the following characteristics: (1) Hair fineness: 15~19 μm (tested according to the method provided in GB / T10685-2007 "Test Method for Diameter of Wool Fiber - Projection Microscopy"); (2) Loft: ≥7 mm (tested according to the thickness method in GB / T 19876-2019 "Test Method for Loft of Textiles"), and resilience ≥88% (tested according to the methods provided in GB / T 19876-2019 and GB / T 30134-2013); (3) Thermal resistance: ≥0.16 m. 2• K / W (determined according to the method provided in GB / T 11048-2018 "Determination of thermal and moisture resistance of textiles under steady-state conditions for physiological comfort (evaporative hot plate method)"); (4) Anti-pilling grade: ≥4 grade (tested according to the method provided in GB / T 4802.1-2008 (circular trajectory method)); (5) Elasticity retention rate: ≥88% (tested according to the method provided in GB / T 38398-2019 "Determination of tensile elastic recovery rate of textiles (cyclic loading method)"), tensile recovery rate ≥85% (tested according to the method provided in GB / T38398-2019 "Determination of tensile elastic recovery rate of textiles (cyclic loading method)"); (6) Shrinkage rate: ≤3% (washed 5 times) (refer to GB / T 8628-2013, GB / T 8629-2017, GB / T (7) Appearance: The fabric surface is flat and wrinkle-free, the nap is uniform, the luster is soft, there is no color difference, and there are no defects (visual inspection); (8) Hand feel: soft, soft, delicate, smooth, fluffy, skin-friendly, non-itchy, and with a soft luster; (9) Safety indicators: no formaldehyde, no fluorescent whitening agent, no azo dye, no heavy metals detected, and conforms to GB 18401-2010 Class B (intimate apparel).
[0133] Thirdly, the present invention provides a garment comprising the imitation cashmere cotton-ammonia fabric as described in the second aspect.
[0134] Fourthly, the present invention provides a processing system for a cashmere-like cotton-ammonia fabric, the processing system comprising a pretreatment module, a cashmere-like brushing module, a cashmere-like fluffing and combing module, an orderly trimming module, a Venturi airflow cashmere-like beating module, a gentle shaping module, and a quality inspection module connected in sequence.
[0135] The processing system for imitation cashmere cotton-ammonia fabric provided by the present invention can be used to implement the preparation method of imitation cashmere cotton-ammonia fabric described in the first aspect, so as to realize the automation, continuity, high efficiency and stable production of the cashmere-like process.
[0136] Preferably, the pretreatment module includes a mild mixing unit, a hot-cap unit, an elastic pre-setting unit, a cotton dyeing unit, a drying unit, and an elastic protection setting unit connected in sequence.
[0137] Preferably, the preprocessing module further includes an automatic conveying system and a parameter control system.
[0138] Preferably, the cashmere napping module includes a napping machine (1200~1500# abrasive rollers, 2~3 rollers connected in series), a 4-unit ultra-fine napping machine (high-density ultra-fine needle cloth, 4 units connected in series), a low-tension conveying system, a tension control system, a speed control system, a vehicle speed control system, and a safety protection system.
[0139] Preferably, the cashmere fluffing and combing module includes an ultrasonic multi-stage combing machine (ultrasonic multi-stage combing: coarse combing + medium combing + fine combing, ultrasonic unit, constant temperature unit, tension control) / low temperature hot-cold-pulse airflow combing machine (hot-cold pulse airflow combing B: hot airflow unit + cold airflow unit + pulse airflow unit, temperature control, pressure control, frequency control, tension control), a low tension conveying system, a parameter control system, and a safety protection system.
[0140] Preferably, the ordered trimming module includes a spiral blade precision trimming machine (including blades, blade spacing adjustment, height adjustment, and cutting angle adjustment), a low-tension conveying system, a tension control system, a vehicle speed control system, an automatic blade sharpening system, and a safety protection system.
[0141] Preferably, the Venturi airflow cashmere-like beating module includes a low-temperature Venturi tube body (three-section: inlet + throat + outlet), a hot air circulation system (115~125℃, precise temperature control), an airflow speed control system (70~100 m / s, adjustable), a three-stage vehicle speed adjustment system, a low-pressure stabilization system (0.7~0.8 atm, stable), a suspension conveying system, an impact frequency control system, a parameter control system, and a safety protection system.
[0142] Preferably, the mild setting module includes a three-stage hot air setting machine (preheating stage + setting stage + cooling stage, precise temperature control, hot air circulation), a tension adjustment system, a vehicle speed linkage system, a cold air cooling system, a low-tension conveying system, a parameter control system, and a safety protection system.
[0143] Preferably, the quality inspection module includes a fineness detection unit (containing a laser particle size analyzer, for detecting feather fineness of 15~19μm and pass rate), a loft detection unit (loft tester, for detecting loft ≥7 mm and resilience ≥88%), and a warmth detection unit (thermal resistance tester, for detecting warmth resistance ≥0.16 m). 2 • K / W), Anti-pilling test unit (pilling tester, tests anti-pilling level ≥4), Elasticity test unit (elasticity tester, tests elasticity retention rate ≥88%, tensile recovery rate), Hand feel and appearance test unit (manual + visual inspection, hand feel, appearance, gloss, defects), Data recording and analysis system (automatic recording, data analysis, quality traceability, batch management).
[0144] Compared with the prior art, the present invention has the following beneficial effects: (1) The fineness of the imitation cashmere cotton-ammonia fabric obtained by the preparation method provided by the present invention is precisely controllable and comparable to natural cashmere: it can stably obtain an ultra-fine down layer of 15~19 μm with a pass rate of ≥95%, which completely overlaps with the fineness range of natural cashmere. The fineness is far superior to that of conventional imitation cashmere (25~50 μm). It has an extremely soft and smooth feel, is skin-friendly and non-irritating, non-itchy, and low allergenic. It eliminates the roughness, itching, and skin-pricing pain points of conventional imitation cashmere. The fineness is close to that of natural cashmere, and the cashmere-level feel is enjoyed at a mass-market price. (2) The cashmere-like cotton-ammonia fabric prepared by the method provided by the present invention has a realistic cashmere texture. The composite pile layer with micro-curl surpasses conventional cashmere: it forms a composite pile layer of short dense soft pile (0.3~0.8 mm) + long soft micro-curl pile (1.0~1.5 mm), and the microstructure is completely consistent with natural cashmere; the hair forms natural micro-curl (curvature 5~10° / mm), which has the core characteristics of natural cashmere such as softness, fluffiness, anti-falling, soft luster, good drape, excellent warmth, lasting fluffiness, good resilience, and non-clumping. The appearance, feel, warmth, luster, fluffiness, anti-falling, drape, and washability are all highly close to natural cashmere and far exceed conventional cashmere. It has a high-end texture and offers a high-end cashmere texture at a mass price. (3) The imitation cashmere cotton-spandex fabric prepared by the method provided by the present invention has excellent elasticity retention, is comfortable to wear, and far exceeds conventional processes: The preparation method provided by the present invention is carried out at low temperature (≤130℃), low tension (≤190 N / m), gentle machinery, no strong friction, no high temperature damage, and priority protection of spandex throughout the process. The elasticity retention rate is ≥88% and the tensile recovery rate is ≥85%, which is far higher than conventional imitation cashmere processes (≤75%). The fabric has good elasticity recovery, is comfortable to wear, not tight, allows free movement, fits the body shape, does not deform, has lasting elasticity, and has a long service life. It fully meets the requirements of close-fitting elastic clothing such as underwear, homewear, thermal underwear, base shirts, children's clothing, and home textiles. The elasticity and comfort far exceed conventional processes, and the wearing experience is excellent.
[0145] (4) The preparation method provided by the present invention has strong adaptability and stable quality: it is specifically designed for ammonia elastic fabrics. The process parameters, equipment configuration, tension control, temperature control and mechanical strength are precisely matched with the characteristics of elastic fabrics, avoiding the quality fluctuations, elasticity damage, fabric problems, poor hand feel, pilling and shedding caused by the conventional process of "one-size-fits-all". The process has high matching degree, stable quality, good batch consistency, low defect rate and strong industrial stability. Detailed Implementation
[0146] The technical solution of the present invention will be further illustrated below through specific embodiments. Those skilled in the art should understand that the embodiments described are merely illustrative of the present invention and should not be construed as limiting the invention in any way.
[0147] Information on some of the raw materials involved in the following specific implementation methods is shown below: (1) Degreasing agent: Transfar Smart Logistics, TF-10; (2) Tension equalizer: Transfar Smart Logistics, TF-202; (3) Nonionic leveling agent: Transfar Smart, TF-301; (4) Reactive dyes: Transfar Smart Logistics, ransol® series; (5) Spandex protective agent: Depeng New Materials, DPL; (6) Organosilicon softener: Transfar Smart Logistics, T-Soft® NG3; (7) Smoothing agent: Jia Hong Technology, Goon 1268 3.
[0148] The testing methods involved in the following specific implementation are as follows: (1) Fineness of wool fibers: The test shall be conducted in accordance with the method provided in GB / T 10685-2007 "Test Method for Diameter of Wool Fibers - Projection Microscopy Method"; (2) Pass rate: The test shall be conducted in accordance with GB / T 2828.1-2012 Sampling Inspection Procedure (by batch sampling, the number of non-conforming items ≤ the allowable value is considered as qualified); (3) Loft: The test shall be conducted in accordance with the thickness method in GB / T 19876-2019 "Test Method for Loft of Textiles"; (4) Rebound rate: The method provided in GB / T 19876-2019 and GB / T 30134-2013 shall be used for determination; (5) Thermal resistance: The test shall be conducted in accordance with the method provided in GB / T 11048-2018 "Determination of thermal and moisture resistance of textiles under steady-state conditions for physiological comfort (evaporative hot plate method)"; (6) Anti-pilling grade: The test shall be conducted in accordance with the method provided in GB / T 4802.1-2008 (circular trajectory method); (7) Elasticity retention rate: The test shall be conducted in accordance with the method provided in GB / T 38398-2019 "Determination of tensile elasticity recovery rate of textiles (cyclic loading method)"; (8) Tensile recovery rate: The test shall be conducted in accordance with the method provided in GB / T 38398-2019 "Determination of tensile elastic recovery rate of textiles (cyclic loading method)"; (9) Shrinkage rate: The test shall be conducted in accordance with the methods provided in GB / T 8628-2013, GB / T 8629-2017 and GB / T 8630-2013; (10) Hand feel: Refer to FZ / T 01057.10-2018 Textile Fiber Identification Test Method for hand feel evaluation; professional blind test, compare with standard sample rating; (11) Appearance: Refer to GB / T 250-2008 (color-changing gray card) and GB / T 251-2008 (staining gray card); visual evaluation using a standard light source box (D65); (12) Curvature: Tested according to the method provided in GB / T 18267-2019; (13) Safety indicators: Tested according to the methods provided in GB 18401.
[0149] Example 1 A method for preparing a cashmere-like cotton-ammonia fabric includes the following steps: (1) Pretreatment: The cotton-spandex fabric contains 95% cotton fiber and 5% spandex fiber by mass, with a weight of 220 g / m². 2 The fabric has a plain weave structure and a width of 150 cm. The cotton-ammonia greige fabric is subjected to the following processes in sequence: batching treatment, heat treatment, elastic pre-setting, cotton reactive dyeing, dehydration and drying, and elastic protective setting. The bath ratio for the mixing tank treatment is 1:10, the temperature is 60℃, and the time is 20 min. The slurry used contains the following components: deionized water, 2.2 g / L nonionic degreasing agent, 1.2 g / L polyether leveling agent, and 0.8 g / L nonionic leveling agent. The heat treatment was performed at a temperature of 75°C for 25 minutes. The elastic pre-forming temperature is 178℃, the machine speed is 20 m / min, the warp tension of the cotton-spandex fabric is 170 N / m, and hot air circulation is used with a wind speed of 18 m / s. The cotton reactive dyeing process has a liquor ratio of 1:10, a temperature of 60℃, a time of 60 min, and a pH of 7.5. The dyeing sizing agent used includes the following components: 10 g / L reactive dye and water. The centrifugal dehydration was performed at a speed of 900 rpm for 7 minutes. The drying temperature is 118℃, hot air circulation is used, the wind speed is 15m / s, the tension of the cotton-spandex fabric during the drying process is ≤120 N / m, the machine speed is 25 m / min, and the moisture content of the cotton-spandex fabric after drying is 9%. The elastic protective setting temperature is 118℃. The sizing agent used for elastic protective setting includes the following components: deionized water, 3.2 g / L spandex protective agent, 5.5 g / L silicone softener, 1.2 g / L smoother and 0.8 g / L antistatic agent. During the elastic protective setting process, the tension of the cotton-spandex fabric is ≤120 N / m and the machine speed is 25 m / min.
[0150] (2) Grinding: Three pairs of 1300# ceramic abrasive rollers connected in series are used to finely grind one side of the pretreated cotton-ammonia fabric. The distance between the abrasive roller and the pressing roller in the 1300# ceramic abrasive roller is 0.5 mm, and the rotation speed of the 1300# ceramic abrasive roller is 1300 rpm. During the fine grinding process, the warp tension of the cotton-ammonia fabric is 80 N / m, and the machine speed is 13 m / min, forming a short pile layer with a pile fineness of 17 μm and a pile length of 0.4 mm. Then, four napping machines connected in series are used to sequentially grind the other side of the pretreated cotton-ammonia fabric. The needle tip outer diameter of the napping machines is 0.025 mm, and the needle density is 1300 needles / cm. 2 The four napping machines connected in series include napping machine A, napping machine B, napping machine C, and napping machine D. The gap between the needle roller of napping machine A and the fabric surface is 0.08 mm, the gap between the needle roller of napping machine B and the fabric surface is -0.02 mm, the gap between the needle roller of napping machine C and the fabric surface is -0.08 mm, and the gap between the needle roller of napping machine D and the fabric surface is -0.02 mm. The machine speed during the napping process is 13 m / min, the warp tension of the cotton-spandex greige fabric is 75 N / m, and a long pile layer with a pile fineness of 17 μm and a pile length of 1.4 mm is formed. (3) Combing: Ultrasonic multi-stage combing is used, including coarse combing, medium combing and fine combing; The coarse combing process is performed under ultrasonic conditions at a frequency of 30 kHz and a power of 900 W, with a needle density of 80 needles / cm². 2 The speed of the carding process is 13 m / min, and the warp tension of the cotton-ammonia greige fabric is 85 N / m. The middle combing process is carried out under a constant temperature of 45°C, and the needle density of the middle comb is 120 needles / cm. 2 It is a two-way combing process, with a machine speed of 13 m / min during the middle combing process and a warp tension of 90 N / m for the cotton-ammonia greige fabric; The comb has a needle density of 200 needles / cm. 2 The combing speed is 13 m / min, and the warp tension of the cotton-ammonia greige fabric is 90 N / m. (4) Trimming: The surface of the long pile layer of the cotton-ammonia fabric is trimmed by a spiral blade precision shearing machine. The shearing height is 1 mm, the machine speed during the shearing process is 13 m / min, and the warp tension of the cotton-ammonia fabric is 80 N / m. (5) Venturi airflow cashmere beater: The Venturi effect air beater is used. The processing temperature is 120℃. The inlet speed of the Venturi effect air beater is 6 m / min, the throat speed is 18 m / min, the outlet speed is 11 m / min, the airflow velocity is 85 m / s, the pipe pressure is 0.75 atm, and the impact frequency is 280 times / min. (6) Shaping: Three-stage shaping, including preheating stage, shaping stage and cooling stage; the speed of the shaping process is 22m / min, and the warp tension of the cotton-ammonia fabric is 170 N / m; The preheating section has a temperature of 100℃ and a time of 25 seconds. The temperature of the shaping section is 118℃, and the time is 75 seconds; The temperature of the cooling section is 28℃, and the time is 35 seconds; (7) Quality inspection: The fabric after the shaping treatment was tested, and the results are as follows: Feather fineness: 16~18 μm, pass rate 98%; Loftiness: 7.5 mm; Compression rebound rate: 90%; Thermal resistance for insulation: 0.17 m 2 •K / W; Anti-pilling rating: 4.5; Elasticity retention rate: 90%; Tensile recovery rate: 87%; Shrinkage rate after 5 washes: 2.8%; Feel: Soft, delicate, smooth and skin-friendly, fluffy, with a soft sheen, and no itching; Appearance: The fabric is smooth and wrinkle-free, with a uniform nap, soft luster, and a high-end feel; Safety indicators: No formaldehyde, no fluorescence, no azo dyes, no detected heavy metals, meets GB 18401 Class B standards.
[0151] Example 2 A method for preparing a cashmere-like cotton-ammonia fabric includes the following steps: (1) Pretreatment: The cotton-spandex fabric contains 95% cotton fiber and 5% spandex fiber by mass, with a weight of 220 g / m². 2 The fabric has a 2 / 1 twill knit structure and a width of 150 cm. The cotton-ammonia greige fabric is subjected to the following processes in sequence: batching treatment, heat treatment, elastic pre-setting, cotton reactive dyeing, dehydration and drying, and elastic protective setting. The bath ratio for the mixing tank was 1:10, the temperature was 0℃, and the time was 20 min. The slurry used contained the following components: deionized water, 2.0 g / L degreasing agent, 1.0 g / L tension leveling agent, and 0.5 g / L leveling agent. The heat treatment temperature is 75℃ and the time is 25 min; The temperature for elastic pre-forming is 175℃, the machine speed is 20 m / min, the warp tension of the cotton-spandex fabric is 165 N / m, and hot air circulation is used with an air speed of 18 m / s. The bath ratio for reactive dyeing of cotton was 1:10, the temperature was 60℃, the time was 60 min, the pH value was 7.2, and the dyeing sizing agent used included the following components: 14 g / L reactive dye and water; The centrifugation speed was 800 rpm and the time was 8 min; The drying temperature is 115℃, hot air circulation is used, the wind speed is 15 m / s, the warp tension of the cotton-spandex fabric during the drying process is ≤120 N / m, the machine speed is 25 m / min, and the moisture content of the cotton-spandex fabric after drying is 9%. The temperature for elastic protective setting is 115℃. The sizing agent used for elastic protective setting includes the following components: deionized water, 3.0 g / L spandex protective agent, 5.0 g / L silicone softener, 1.0 g / L smoother and 0.5 g / L antistatic agent. During the elastic protective setting process, the tension of the cotton-spandex fabric is ≤120 N / m and the machine speed is 25 m / min. (2) Grinding: Three pairs of 1200# diamond rollers connected in series are used to finely grind one side of the pretreated cotton-spandex fabric. The distance between the grinding roller and the pressing roller of the 1200# diamond roller is 0.6 mm, and the rotation speed of the 1200# diamond roller is 1250 rpm. During the fine grinding process, the tension of the cotton-spandex fabric is 78 N / m, and the machine speed is 12 m / min, forming a short pile surface with a pile fineness of 16 μm and a pile length of 0.5 mm. Then, four napping machines connected in series are used to sequentially grind the other side of the pretreated cotton-spandex fabric. The outer diameter of the needle tip of the napping machine is 0.02 mm, and the needle density is 1200 needles / cm. 2 The four napping machines connected in series include napping machine A, napping machine B, napping machine C, and napping machine D. The gap between the needle roller of napping machine A and the fabric surface is 0.06 mm, the gap between the needle roller of napping machine B and the fabric surface is -0.03 mm, the gap between the needle roller of napping machine C and the fabric surface is -0.07 mm, and the gap between the needle roller of napping machine D and the fabric surface is -0.03 mm. The machine speed during the napping process is 12 m / min, the warp tension of the cotton-spandex greige fabric is 72 N / m, and a long pile surface with a pile fineness of 16 μm and a pile length of 1.5 mm is formed. (3) Combing: Hot and cold pulse airflow combing is used, including hot airflow combing, cold airflow shaping combing and pulse airflow vibration combing; The temperature of the hot air combing process is 125℃, the wind speed is 18 m / s, and it is a ring jet. The warp tension of the ammonia fabric during the hot air combing process is 85 N / m. The temperature of the cold airflow shaping and carding is 18℃, the air pressure is 0.35 MPa, and the pressure is sprayed. The warp tension of the cotton-ammonia fabric during the cold airflow shaping and carding process is 90 N / m. The frequency of the pulsed airflow vibration combing is 8 Hz, the peak air pressure is 0.55 MPa, and the warp tension of the cotton-ammonia fabric during the pulsed airflow vibration combing process is 90 N / m. (4) Trimming: The surface of the long pile layer of the cotton-ammonia fabric is trimmed by a spiral blade precision shearing machine. The shearing height is 0.9 mm, the machine speed during the shearing process is 12 m / min, and the warp tension of the cotton-ammonia fabric is 78 N / m. (5) Venturi airflow cashmere beating: Venturi effect air beater is used, the processing temperature is 118℃, the inlet speed of Venturi effect air beater is 5 m / min, the throat speed is 16 m / min, the outlet speed is 10 m / min, the airflow velocity is 80 m / s, the pipe pressure is 0.75 atm, and the impact frequency is 260 times / min; (6) Shaping: Three-stage shaping, including preheating, shaping and cooling; the speed of the shaping process is 20m / min, and the warp tension of the cotton-ammonia fabric is 165 N / m; The preheating section has a temperature of 98℃ and a duration of 25 seconds. The temperature of the shaping section is 115℃, and the time is 70 seconds; The temperature of the cooling section is 28℃, and the time is 35 seconds; (7) Quality inspection: The fabric after the shaping treatment was tested, and the results are as follows: Feather fineness: 15~17 μm, pass rate 97%; Curvature: 7~9° / mm, natural slight curl; Loft: 7.2 mm, resilience: 89%; Thermal resistance for insulation: 0.165 m 2 •K / W; Anti-pilling rating: Level 4; Elasticity retention rate: 89%, tensile recovery rate: 86%; Shrinkage rate: 2.5%; Feel: Extremely soft and smooth, fluffy and skin-friendly, with a soft sheen, a high-end texture, and no irritation; Appearance: The fabric is smooth and wrinkle-free, with a uniform nap, soft luster, excellent drape, and a high-end feel; Safety indicators: No formaldehyde, no fluorescence, no azo dyes, no detected heavy metals, meets GB 18401 Class B standards.
[0152] Example 3 A method for preparing a cashmere-like cotton-ammonia fabric, which differs from Example 1 only in that, in step (3) the combing process, no coarse combing is performed, only medium combing and fine combing are performed to obtain the cashmere-like cotton-ammonia fabric.
[0153] Quality inspection: The fabric after the finishing treatment was tested, and the results are as follows: The short pile layer has a pile fineness of 17 μm and a pile length of 0.4 mm, while the long pile layer has a pile fineness of 17 μm and a pile length of 1.4 mm. Loftiness: 12 cm 3 / g; Compression rebound rate: 90%; Thermal resistance for insulation: 0.16 m 2 • K / W; Tensile recovery rate: 85%; Elasticity retention rate: 88%; Shrinkage after 5 washes: 3%; Anti-pilling rating: Level 4; Appearance, feel and safety indicators: The fabric surface is flat and soft to the touch, and all safety indicators comply with GB 18401-2010. Disadvantages: The pile cohesion of the fabric obtained in Example 3 is slightly reduced, the three-dimensionality of the pile is slightly weaker, there is a small amount of loose hair on the surface, and the overall uniformity of the pile and the anti-pilling performance are slightly worse than those in Example 1. Example 4 A method for preparing a cashmere-like cotton-ammonia fabric, which differs from Example 1 only in that, in step (3) during the combing process, no medium combing is performed, only coarse combing and fine combing are performed to obtain the cashmere-like cotton-ammonia fabric.
[0154] Quality inspection: The fabric after the finishing treatment was tested, and the results are as follows: The short pile layer has a pile fineness of 17 μm and a pile length of 0.4 mm, while the long pile layer has a pile fineness of 17 μm and a pile length of 1.4 mm. Loftiness: 12 cm 3 / g; Compression rebound rate: 90%; Thermal resistance for insulation: 0.16 m 2 • K / W; Tensile recovery rate: 85%; Elasticity retention rate: 88%; Shrinkage after 5 washes: 3%; Anti-pilling rating: Level 4; Safety specifications: Complies with GB 18401-2010 requirements; Shortcomings: Example 4 lacks intermediate combing, resulting in poorer smoothness of the pile in the fabric, uneven pile length in some areas, and a decrease in the delicate and smooth feel of the imitation cashmere.
[0155] Example 5 A method for preparing a cashmere-like cotton-ammonia fabric, which differs from Example 1 only in that, in step (3) the combing process, no fine combing is performed, only coarse and medium combing is performed, to obtain the cashmere-like cotton-ammonia fabric.
[0156] Quality inspection: The fabric after the finishing treatment was tested, and the results are as follows: The short pile layer has a pile fineness of 17 μm and a pile length of 0.4 mm, while the long pile layer has a pile fineness of 17 μm and a pile length of 1.4 mm. Loftiness: 12 cm 3 / g; Compression rebound rate: 90%; Thermal resistance for insulation: 0.16 m 2 • K / W; Tensile recovery rate: 85%; Elasticity retention rate: 88%; Shrinkage after 5 washes: 3%; Anti-pilling rating: Level 4; Safety specifications: Complies with GB 18401-2010 requirements; Shortcomings: Example 5 lacks fine combing and finishing, resulting in a large amount of loose fibers remaining on the surface of the fabric. The fibers are arranged in a disordered manner, have poor flatness, and feel rough. The anti-pilling performance and the durable regularity of the pile surface are both weaker than those of Example 1.
[0157] Comparative Example 1 A method for preparing a cashmere-like cotton-ammonia fabric includes the following steps; (1) Pretreatment of fabric: The cotton-ammonia fabric is degreased, washed and dried in sequence. The warp tension of the cotton-ammonia fabric is 200~220 N / m throughout the process and the treatment temperature is 120~130 ℃. (2) Grinding: A pair of tandem 800# ordinary sand rollers are used to grind the fabric on one side in a single pass. The distance between the sand roller and the pressing roller is 1.0 mm, the sand roller speed is 900 rpm, the machine speed is 18 m / min, the warp tension of the cotton-ammonia fabric is 95 N / m, and no double-sided differential napping process is performed. (3) Combing: Only a single coarse combing is performed, omitting the medium combing, fine combing, shearing, and Venturi airflow beating process; (4) Dyeing and finishing: Conventional reactive dyeing, liquor ratio of 1:10, dyeing temperature of 65℃, and finishing with only ordinary softener after dyeing, without adding spandex protective agent; (5) Setting: Hot air setting, setting temperature is 185 ℃, machine speed is 22 m / min, warp tension of cotton-ammonia fabric is 195 N / m, and fabric is obtained; Quality Inspection: The fineness of the feathers is 35 μm; Softness / smoothness: Rough and itchy; Thermal resistance for insulation: 0.08 m 2 • K / W; Anti-pilling rating: 2.5; Elasticity retention rate: 70%; Washability: Prone to shedding and deformation.
[0158] The above description is merely a specific embodiment of the present invention, but the scope of protection of the present invention is not limited thereto. Those skilled in the art should understand that any variations or substitutions that can be easily conceived by those skilled in the art within the technical scope disclosed in the present invention fall within the scope of protection and disclosure of the present invention.
Claims
1. A method for preparing a cashmere-like cotton-ammonia fabric, characterized in that, The preparation method includes: under the conditions of temperature ≤130℃ and warp tension of cotton-ammonia fabric ≤190 N / m, the cotton-ammonia fabric is pretreated, brushed, combed, trimmed, venturi airflow beated and shaped in sequence to obtain the imitation cashmere cotton-ammonia fabric. The brushed cotton-ammonia fabric has a short pile layer with a pile fineness of 15-19 μm and a pile length of 0.3-0.8 mm on one side surface and a long pile layer with a pile fineness of 15-19 μm and a pile length of 1-1.5 mm on the other side surface. After being struck by the Venturi airflow, the curvature of the fibers in the pile layer on both sides of the cotton-ammonia fabric is independently 5~10 ° / mm.
2. The preparation method according to claim 1, characterized in that, The cotton-ammonia greige fabric contains 92-98% cotton yarn by mass. Preferably, the spandex content in the cotton-spandex fabric is 2-8% by mass. Preferably, the areal density of the cotton-ammonia fabric is 210~230 g / m². 2 .
3. The preparation method according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that, The pretreatment includes the following steps for the cotton-ammonia fabric: batching treatment, heat treatment, elastic pre-setting, cotton reactive dyeing, drying, and elastic protective setting. Preferably, the temperature of the cylinder preparation process is 50~70℃, and the time is 15~25 min; Preferably, the slurry used in the mixing tank process comprises the following components: 2~2.5 g / L of degreasing agent, 1~1.5 g / L of tension leveling agent, and 0.5~1.0 g / L of dyeing leveling agent; Preferably, the heat treatment temperature is 70~80℃ and the time is 20~30 min; Preferably, the temperature for elastic pre-forming is 110~125℃, and the time is 45~60 s; Preferably, the temperature for the reactive dyeing of cotton is 50-70°C, the time is 50-70 min, and the pH value is 7-8; Preferably, the process before drying further includes a step of centrifuging and dehydrating the cotton-ammonia fabric; Preferably, the drying temperature is 115~120℃; Preferably, the temperature for setting the elastic protective layer is 115~120℃; Preferably, the sizing agent used for elastic protective shaping includes the following components: 3~3.5 g / L spandex protectant, 5.0~6.0 g / L silicone softener, 1~1.5 g / L smoother, and 0.5~1.0 g / L antistatic agent.
4. The preparation method according to any one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that, The sanding process specifically includes the following steps: Two to three pairs of tandem abrasive rollers are used to finely grind one side of the pretreated cotton-ammonia fabric to form a short pile layer with a pile fineness of 15 to 19 μm and a pile length of 0.3 to 0.8 mm. Four napping machines connected in series are used to sequentially nap the other side of the pretreated cotton-ammonia fabric to form a long nap surface with a nap fineness of 15~19 μm and a nap length of 1~1.5 mm, thus completing the napping step. Preferably, the distance between the abrasive roller and the pressure roller in the abrasive roller is 0.3~0.8 mm; Preferably, the abrasive roller is a 1200~1500# ceramic / diamond abrasive roller; Preferably, the four napping machines connected in series include napping machine A, napping machine B, napping machine C, and napping machine D. The gap between the needle roller of napping machine A and the fabric surface is 0.05~0.1 mm, the gap between the needle roller of napping machine B and the fabric surface is -0.05~0 mm, the gap between the needle roller of napping machine C and the fabric surface is -0.1~-0.06 mm, and the gap between the needle roller of napping machine D and the fabric surface is -0.05~0.1 mm. Preferably, the outer diameter of the needle tip of the napping machine is 0.02~0.03 mm, and the needle density is 1200~1500 needles / cm². 2 .
5. The preparation method according to any one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that, The combing method is ultrasonic multi-stage combing or hot and cold pulse airflow combing. Preferably, the ultrasonic multi-stage combing includes the steps of sequentially combing, coarse combing, and fine combing the brushed cotton-ammonia fabric. Preferably, the coarsening is performed under ultrasonic conditions at a frequency of 25-35 kHz; Preferably, the needle density of the coarse comb is 70-90 needles / cm. 2 The needle density of the comb is 110~130 needles / cm. 2 The comb's needle density is 190~210 needles / cm. 2 ; Preferably, the hot and cold pulse airflow combing includes the steps of sequentially performing hot airflow combing, cold airflow shaping combing, and pulse airflow vibration combing on the brushed cotton-ammonia fabric; Preferably, the temperature of the hot airflow combing is 120~130℃; Preferably, the airflow velocity of the hot air combing is 15~20 m / s; Preferably, the temperature of the cold airflow for shaping and combing is 15~20℃; Preferably, the air pressure for the cold airflow shaping and combing is 0.3~0.4 MPa; Preferably, the frequency of the pulsed airflow vibration combing is 5~10 Hz; Preferably, the peak air pressure of the pulsed airflow vibration combing is 0.5~0.6 MPa.
6. The preparation method according to any one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that, The trimming includes the step of trimming one side of the long-staple layer of the cotton-ammonia fabric using a spiral precision shearing machine; Preferably, the spiral blade precision shearing machine has a blade spacing of 0.8~1 mm and a shearing height of 0.8~1.2 mm; Preferably, the warp tension of the cotton-ammonia fabric during the shearing process is 75~85 N / m; Preferably, the Venturi airflow cashmere-like beating is performed using a Venturi effect air beater; Preferably, the processing temperature of the Venturi effect air beater is 115~125℃; Preferably, the Venturi effect air beater includes an inlet section, a throat section, and an outlet section, with an inlet speed of 5~8 m / min, a throat speed of 15~20 m / min, an outlet speed of 10~12 m / min, and an airflow velocity of 70~100 m / s. Preferably, the internal pressure of the Venturi effect air beater is 0.7~0.8 atm; Preferably, the impact frequency of the Venturi effect air beater is 250-300 times / min; Preferably, the shaping process is a three-stage shaping process, including a preheating stage, a shaping stage, and a cooling stage; Preferably, the temperature of the preheating section is 95~105℃ and the time is 20~30 s, the temperature of the shaping section is 115~120℃ and the time is 60~90 s, and the temperature of the cooling section is 25~30℃ and the time is 30~40 s.
7. A cashmere-like cotton-ammonia fabric, characterized in that, The imitation cashmere cotton-ammonia fabric is prepared using the preparation method described in any one of claims 1 to 6.
8. A garment, characterized in that, The garment includes the imitation cashmere cotton-ammonia fabric as described in claim 7.
9. A processing device for imitation cashmere cotton-ammonia fabric, characterized in that, The processing system includes a pre-processing module, a cashmere brushing module, a cashmere fluffing and combing module, an orderly trimming module, a Venturi airflow cashmere patting module, a gentle shaping module, and a quality inspection module connected in sequence.
10. The processing system according to claim 9, characterized in that, The pretreatment module includes a gentle mixing unit, a hot cap unit, an elastic pre-setting unit, a cotton dyeing unit, a drying unit, and an elastic protection pre-setting unit connected in sequence. Preferably, the preprocessing module further includes an automatic conveying system and a parameter control system.